Main Discussion Area > HowTo's and Build-a-longs
Shop tips and shortcuts
tom sawyer:
When using a bandsaw, you will often find that the blade will lean a bit instead of remaining perfectly perpendicular to the piece. I think it generally wants to lean away from the saw, it is trying to become circular again and is fighting the guides. If you aren't careful, you'll cut to the line which you are following on top of the piece, only to find that the cut is either a bit inside, or a bit outside, where you want it on the bottom side. I've had to deal with a few parallelogram cross sections in my day.
You can minimize the above, by setting your guides as close to the piece as possible. The closer the guides, the less lean you will get. The piece has to fit through of course, sodon't cut it too close or a lsightly thicker section might make you have to shut it down and adjust.
Oh and don't eat yellow snow in your shop.
Fred_Hagell:
I built myself a bench that is a variation of a shaving horse. The stave can be clamped to the top rail and can be moved along it, allowing you to easily work from one end to the other by sliding the stave under the seat. Tyler built a similar bench with an angled top rail that is much nicer on the back while working. I find this preferable to the vice, you just have to make the belly of the stave somewhat flat and square to the back before it can be clamped. Fred
Primitive1:
I know we've had the tillering stick vs tillering tree conversation, however; I use both. I clamp my bow in a vice (using a towel around the handle so I don't mar the wood) to remove wood with the tillering stick suspended above the handle (though it still rests on it) via machinist wire so it's pretty much hands free and safe. I then teach the bow to bend on the tree to help it to learn what I'm asking of it and exercise it to see what my wood removal has done. I go back and forth...
Make a hot box and keep your wood dry. Put a rheostat and temp gauge in it so you don't over bake it.
Don't bring in 'green' wood from the woods without a dusting of Sevin dust to ensure you don't get a wood borer infestation in your prime collection.
Don't be afraid of screwing up...it happens regardless of how long you've made bows so start removing wood.
Tiller slower on white woods...they're less forgiving of 'tillering rush' than woods such as Osage...
Make a heat gun set up that Marc StLouis posted in PA magazine; saves hand/wrist cramping and allows you to drink beer (or other cold beverages) while you slowly move the device along.
Only use kitchen utensils or gadgetry that the wife has pre-approved. Cheers, P1.
huntersim:
Good post Roger.
I see a lot of people pull scrapers. But you can push one with two hands and have a lot of control. With your thumbs in the backside of the scrapper you can flex it to work a concave surface or for doing some precise work with it. I also round the corners of my scrapers for comfort, and the rounded corners also take the place of a gooseneck scraper.
Little John:
I dont have much to offer as for shortcuts and tips, but love hearing them. Kenneth
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