Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Kidder on September 17, 2020, 07:22:12 pm
-
Hi all! Question on string alignment corrections. Stave with a significant jog in the lower limb such that it causes the string to not bisect the center of the handle. Should I do the alignment correction at the obvious jog in the limb or at the handle riser? Thanks in advance.
-
Will you post pics?
-
The jog occurs near the middle of the lower limb. It would make sense to correct the area of the jog, but everything I’ve seen and read talks about heating the riser area.
-
Start off by leaving the handle full width and the nocks wide to make adjustments after the first stringing of the stave. Then post a photo and we can discuss what to do.
Jawge
-
The string does not need to bisect the middle of the handle. Leave it as is and choose the orientation that allows the string to run closer to the arrow pass side.
-
The string does not need to bisect the middle of the handle. Leave it as is and choose the orientation that allows the string to run closer to the arrow pass side.
That’s a great idea, but it’s too late for that on this one as I got antsy with the rasp and added a rough shelf already.
Really the only issues are “where” to do the bending and possibly “when” but I’d like to do that sooner rather than later for a variety of reasons. Thanks.
-
dry heat can easily correct that ..Jawge has a great comment to string bow first and post a pic... just looking at what you have shown seems an easy fix though..gut
-
Sometimes they are not as bad strung as you think they will be, so I agree that you should get to the point of stringing it before deciding. (Also, keeping in mind that it can be hard to judge, you may move it more than needed if you do it now.) I have had better luck steaming the handle and correcting things that way, and it seems to me that's what I would do with yours, since it is not a sudden dogleg but more of a slow curve.
-
So I will get it to low brace and then regroup on it. Let’s assume that it is a sudden dogleg (because it really is, despite what the picture shows) - just wanting to know if the correction will need to be made at the dogleg or at the handle? Thanks!
-
I would do it at the dogleg....however you decide...make sure bow has chance to re hydrate or dry depending on method of correction...gut
-
Because you've already reduced the thickness it makes it tougher to bend sideways. Wood would rather bend in the thinnest direction. Just be careful to clamp it so it can only go sideways and watch it doesn't twist.
-
the bottom line is how will it shoot and what can you do to make it shoot better.
As Don points out, an adjustment at the handle might be easier, and if you need to make an additional adjustment after the bow is tillered out, then the handle is more easily adjusted then also.
basically, your goal is to keep the bow from torquing when the arrow is released from full draw, so a lot depends on grip design and how it fits your hand
-
I can't remember who posted this photo, but a similar setup worked well for me on a hackberry bow I am working on. That is the only time a lateral bend has worked for me - it was nearer to the end than yours (I do see the dogleg now!).
-
I can't remember who posted this photo, but a similar setup worked well for me on a hackberry bow I am working on. That is the only time a lateral bend has worked for me - it was nearer to the end than yours (I do see the dogleg now!).
That’s a way better jig than the block jig I built - thanks for sharing!
-
Wet the cloth to prevent the back from scorching ..
-
Different perspective...
-
I would probably torque the dog leg first and the handle as a second step...asking too much in lateral adjustment can cause tearing the grain apart.
-
I have straightened just about every stave I ever worked on to some degree. I use a vise with a swivel base and a post on the end of my work bench. I rotate the vise to an angle that when I tighten the jaws it forces the stave against the post.
I use a piece aluminum angle for a heat reflector and wrap the heated place and the angle with a tee shirt to deep soak the heated piece. It may take 1/2 hour to cool because the angle retains so much heat. I suspect some bending failures are because the heat doesn't get deeply into the wood. There is no doubt about the heat transfer with my setup.
I would go for the dogleg first and not all at one time, I tweak limbs a little at a time to see how they come out. You can get some of it out and bend the handle to finish the alignment, each correction stave to stave is different, it is never one size fits all.
My straightening setup;
-
Guess that was Bushboy's setup! I thought I had bookmarked the thread, but I guess I just saved the photo.
-
I would lay it on my bench and put about a 1/4 “ shim under the bend. THen clamp the handle down to the bench.put a clamp on the mid limb area , heat the area you want to straighten and tighten the mid limb clamp. This is only if the wood is dry. Done probably 50 bows that way. I get them straight. By that’s just me. Arvin