Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => HowTo's and Build-a-longs => Topic started by: Gordon on November 04, 2007, 02:15:24 am
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Since beginning my journey into building wooden bows I have received invaluable assistance from the good folks on this board. I dare say I would not be where I am without it. It’s time then I return something back to the community. I am constructing a bow for a gentleman in Washington and will post the steps as I go. For the more experienced bowyers on this site this thread will probably not reveal anything new or particularly interesting. But if it helps demystify the process for some of the folks among us who are new to bow-building, then it will have served its purpose.
The bow will be short (60” or less), bend through the handle, hunting weight (hopefully), and made of hazel-nut. A caveat – I have built a few longer bows with this wood but do not know how it will hold up with this design. In other words, I may not succeed. But I’ll give it a go anyway.
The log was given to my by Bryan Briand and was about 3” in diameter. While the log was green, I sawed it in half and peeled the bark off. The stave has been drying in my garage for about 6 months. Following is a picture of the stave.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb001.jpg)
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I start by reducing the stave to a width that is just a little wider than the finished bow – about 1 5/8” in this case.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb002.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb003.jpg)
Next I mark where the handle will be. I like to build my bows using an asymmetrical design because they balance better in my hand. To do this I first mark the center of the stave and then make the top of the handle 1” inch above center. I then mark the bottom of the handle 4” inches from the top.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb007.jpg)
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I am now ready to begin roughing out the thickness taper for each limb. I begin by dividing each limb into 8 equal sections.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb008.jpg)
Then I will mark the taper from the back of the bow using a tool that I made for this purpose. For this bow the initial taper will go from 1” at the handle to 5/8” at the tips.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb010.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb011.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb013.jpg)
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Next I carefully cut outside the taper lines using my bandsaw. I don’t try to do this using one cut, but instead cut one side at a slight angle then turn the bow over and cut the other side. This helps ensure that I do not accidentally remove too much wood.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb014.jpg)
I use a rasp to remove the crown on the belly where the two cuts meet.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb016.jpg)
Here’s what the bow looks like when I am done.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb017.jpg)
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Now I'm ready to cut out the outline of the bow. I start by drawing the limb taper on the belly of the bow. I make a mark 1” up from the end for the nock and mark the taper about 12” up from that. I initially make the tip wide (about ¾”) so that I can later make small adjustments to the string alignment if necessary.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb019.jpg)
I draw the handle 1 ¼” wide and the fadeouts about 3” long each.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb020.jpg)
Here is what the roughed out bow looks like after I am done cutting on the bandsaw.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb021.jpg)
Next – floor tillering and steam bending.
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Reading this prosess in the Traditional Bowyers Bible is one thing but getting to see some one that knows what they are doing go through it is a major help to me. Thanks Gordon. Joel
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Here’s the bow after roughing out – not bending much yet.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb022.jpg)
After roughing out the bow I run my fingers along the length of the limbs looking for spots that are obviously too thick or thin.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb023.jpg)
I then work on any spots that I’ve marked for material removal.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb025.jpg)
Thin spots are marked with an X so that I avoid them when removing wood. I then repeat the process of removing wood and checking limb thickness with my fingers.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb029.jpg)
After a few iterations of wood removal the bow is bending a bit.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb030.jpg)
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I now prepare to steam bend out some of the deflex in each limb.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb031.jpg)
After about 45 minutes I remove the bow and bend the trouble spot on a mini-caul that I built for this purpose. I’ll leave the bow in the form for several hours.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb032.jpg)
Next I’ll steam each tip for about 30 minutes and flip them up a bit to help with the string angle and give the bow a little more zip.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb033.jpg)
Here’s what the bow looks like when I am all done bending. The reflex looks fairly extreme but much of it will come out during the tillering process.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb035.jpg)
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I'm glad to see you post info about Hazel nut. Bryan B is sending me a hazel stave and I have never worked with it. It is interesting to see how we each handle some of the small problems we run into in wood bow making. Most are similar but the individual nuances are eye opening, for me at least. Thanks for posting this info for us all, Gordon. Pat
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;) Great job so far , hope everything works out for you in the end , great pic's - always learn something by seeing how someone else does their thing -thanks for the effort !
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lookin good Gordon ;)
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To get the bow bending I use my Nickolsen #49 rasp to hog wood off and then remove the tooth marks with my scraper. Between wood removal sessions I check for thickness by running my fingers along the bow.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb038.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb036.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb037.jpg)
Okay, she is starting to bend pretty good now. I know it doesn’t look like it but there is quite a bit of reflex in the bow at this point. It’s ready for the long string.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb039.jpg)
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very interesting Gordon. thanks for posting this !
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Fantastic stuff Gorden, with being brand new to bow building i cant express how much these build alongs help. i am working on my first red oak board bow and i just learned some great tips that i know will help me in the process.
thanks again
Bishop
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Looking good :)
And thanks for sharing! Looking forward to following the rest of the process.
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Very nice, Gordon.
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It’s time to cut nocks. I mark the position of the nocks about 1” back from the tip end and then make a line at about 45 degrees. I do this on both sides of the tip to help ensure that my groves will line up nicely.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb040.jpg)
Using a small rattail file I file groves on both sides using the 45 degree line as a guide.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb041.jpg)
After the initial groves are cut I round the belly with a rasp and/or scraper.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb042.jpg)
I finish filing the groves stopping frequently to make sure they line up with each other.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb043.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb044.jpg)
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I wrap 100 grit sandpaper around the file and sand the groves smooth. The shoulders are rounded a bit so that the string loops won’t catch and split the wood.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb045.jpg)
Burnishing the forward edge of the groves also helps prevent string damage.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb046.jpg)
Here is what the tips looks like when I’m done. Note that the groves should be even and meet squarely in the middle. Now we’re ready to put on a string.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb047.jpg)
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The longer the string, the harder it is to see flaws in the tiller so I use a string that’s just long enough to nock without bracing the bow. Left limb is a little stiff and right mid-limb is a little weak.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb049.jpg)
Time for a little wood removal - I’m careful not to take too much wood off at a time and I exercise the bow thoroughly between scraping sessions. It is important not to pull the bow more than your target weight so as to keep the stress on the limbs to a minimum thus reducing unnecessary set. The limbs are bending fairly evenly now.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb050.jpg)
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The bow is a little narrow for hazel-nut so I’m going to temper the belly to help prevent excessive set. I put each limb into reflex and then use a heat gun until the belly is nicely browned, but not charred. I keep the heat gun about 4-5” away from the belly to allow the heat to penetrate the belly rather than just scorch it.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb051.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb052.jpg)
Tempering the belly will add weight and change the tiller so I scrape more to get the limbs bending evenly again. The bow is ready for the short string when the tips move about 16” at the target draw weight.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb053.jpg)
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Great build along, I'm taking notes to help improve my methods, thanks Gordon.
VB
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Great detail and images, Gordon.
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I like the look of it! Thanks for allowing us to go through the making of it step by step, I can't wait to see it finished. :)
Sean
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Great job, Gordon. Jawge
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Very nice and helpful buildalong. Thanks Gordon!
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Very nice! Strange to see a pile of staves like that and see so little orange in there ;)
Like that simple table top caul you made there...very clever. The altered profile looks great!
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Very cool Gordon. Nice piece of wood and great pic's.
You've made my Monday.
Otoe
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I am new at this, with only one bow completed so far. I have learned much reading your post. Thank you , Master!!! ;D
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excellent post gordon.
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Gordon EXCELLENT BUILD ALONG!
What I find so unattainable, is you all seem to make the limbs so darn thick! How do you get them to bend like that with out damage or set?
You guys really are awesome!
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What I find so unattainable, is you all seem to make the limbs so darn thick! How do you get them to bend like that with out damage or set?
bb,
I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean thick limbs relative to a laminated glass bow?
Gordon
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Great build-a-long. That seems to be a somewhat straight stave for hazelnut. They don't grow very straight in my area, Indiana, kinda shrubby.
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It is time now to brace the bow for the first time. For me this is the most nerve wracking part of the process. The long-string hides many tillering flaws which are revealed when the bow is braced. A common problem is for one limb to appear stronger or a hinge that will suddenly reveal itself. Initially I keep the brace height low – no more than 4”. If I see a flaw I quickly unbrace the bow and fix it using the long string. Exercising a bow on a short string under these circumstances will often result in excessive set.
This time I’m lucky and the first brace reveals no major problems. Now it is just a matter of reducing weight and finessing the tiller.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb054.jpg)
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But before I continue tillering, I check the string alignment. The string is off-center by a little more than ½”. I like the string to track down the middle of the handle or just favoring the side of the arrow pass. Some bowyers advocate letting the string track well to the side of the arrow so that the bow is almost center-shot. I don’t recommend that because it tends to cause the bow to torque in the hand upon release – at least that is my experience.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb056.jpg)
I’m going to bend the handle area to move the tips into proper alignment. Sometimes I use steam and a press, but this time I’m going to use dry heat. I rub cooking oil on the belly side of the handle – this helps distribute the heat more evenly. Then I clamp the bow and fasten a weight on the limb that I want to move. I position a stop under the weight to prevent the handle from bending more than I need. I apply the heat evenly over a 4” area until the wood is too hot to touch, but just before it begins to brown. I then let it cool for about 2 hours.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb058.jpg)
I got lucky and nailed it the first time – the string is now tracking right down the center of the handle when braced.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb059.jpg)
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Now that the string is tracking I remove wood on both limbs to reduce weight. I use long strokes with a scraper to ensure I’m taking wood off evenly. Between removal sessions I pull the bow on the tree about 30 times to exercise the wood. I’m essentially “training” the wood to bend further and further.
Following are pictures of the bow at rest and braced.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb060.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb061.jpg)
Here the bow is pulled to 21”. It’s bending nicely in the handle, inner and mid limbs, but is a little stiff yet in both outer limbs.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb055.jpg)
Next – narrowing the tips and adding tip overlays.
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Gordon, This is excellent!!! Thanks for posting for us. The bow is gonna be beautiful. I love the profile. Pat Pat
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Just read through the whole thing - as said before this is a great build along. Can't wait to get home.........
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Gordon: Great post. Your pictures tell a thousand words and your narrative adds the emphasis.
A newbie like me could almost us this as a 101.
Otoe
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GREAT BUILD ALONG!!!! This would be a nice addition to the next printing of TAB#1. I can not thank you enough.
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Thank you very much for this build-along. I learn so much from you masters of the craft and I thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!! ;)
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Thank you for the compliment Wulamoc, but I am hardly a master. I do, however, think I have the basics fairly worked out and wanted to give back to the community that has so helped me in my development. I'm pleased that folks find this information useful.
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Good stuff Gordon, thourghly enjoying your build along.
One question I couldn'y help noticing the Corona bottle ::) You don't actually drink that do you? ;)
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One question I couldn'y help noticing the Corona bottle You don't actually drink that do you?
That's funny Dana ;D. Actually my wife drinks that stuff and I use the bottle for burnishing the backs of my bows. I prefer the local micro-brews. I heard the other day that Portland Oregon has more local breweries than any other city in the world - including Germany! No Corona will be touching this boy's lips :o
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Gordon, I just finished a BridgePort Brewing Co. IPA, brewed in Portland. Yummmmmmm! 8) Pat
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Speaking of brews - I'd have a couple if not for work in AM.... Gordon: on your tillering - do you have any tools that you use for that or just eyeball it all the way?
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Great build-along Gordon, I have learnt much from the pic and description on your threat.
I too have started a threat a few days back, I am building a raw Boo belly backed with raw boo backing, I just got it to get on the short string brace at 4" last night, more tillering from here on.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,3910.0.html
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Paul,
I pretty much just stand back and eyeball the tiller. That's because a lot of the bows I make are from vine maple and the profile is typically too uneven to use any kind of reference tool.
Gordon
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Thats good news Gordon I just can't stand to see a man drinking a beer with a twist of lemon :o ::)
Keep up the good work.
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thats one sweet looking bow :)
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This is a great buildalong Gordon, Keep it coming. I really like the profile so far, ought to be a great shooter.
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Jbell, I plan on working on the bow this weekend and hope to post new pics on Sunday.
I'm glad you all seem to be enjoying the build-a-long.
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Great post Gordon, I am taking notes on this one. Greg
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I like the process on getting the string centered on the handle , I have a bow I'm working on now that needs a little help in that area , didn't know how I was going to do it , but thanks to you - I have a good idea ! Thanks Gordon ;)
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thanks for the sharing, I like the jig for inducing the reflex and tip curves. are you going to back the bow with anything?
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Dave,
The gentleman I am building this for would like a snakeskin back. I'll put silk beneath the skins to give the bow an extra measure of safety.
Gordon
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Once the bow is bending well I try to get the bow as close to final dimensions as possible so that by the time I hit weight and draw length there is no more wood to be removed. I begin by narrowing the tips to ½”.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb062.jpg)
I’m ready to install overlays. I make a mark 1” back from the nock and then draw a line from the back to halfway between the belly and back. I will remove the wood from above the line to create a beveled surface for the overlay.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb063.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb067.jpg)
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I use a small file to flatten the bevel.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb068.jpg)
The overlays are from some scrap hardware flooring and are cut to 2” x ½” x ½”. The blocks are flattened and then the ends beveled on the belt sander.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb064.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb065.jpg)
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I rough up the surfaces with a toothing plane blade in preparation to gluing.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb069.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb070.jpg)
The overlays are glued to the tips with 5-minute epoxy and clamped.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb072.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb073.jpg)
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After the epoxy has cured I narrow the tips to their final width of 7/16”.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb074.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb075.jpg)
I then use a small carving file to shape the overlays.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb078.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb079.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb076.jpg)
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The groves are re-cut with a small rattail file.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb080.jpg)
I make the groves meet at a point at the top of the overlay.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb081.jpg)
Then I cut across both groves to create a nice even arc.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb087.jpg)
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With a rasp and file I shape the remainder of the tip.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb082.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb083.jpg)
And here is the finished tip.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb084.jpg)
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Hy Gordon...nice build-a-long, the bow looks gr8 , i like it verry much.I want to ask you something...hazelnut wood is a good wood for making bows??i have never try it so im curiose.I have a lot hazelnut in my forests so...im wonder iff its worth the efort.Thks. in advanse.Ohhh.. i just remeber something els...how thick did you leave the bow whenn you put on steaming??? i have try once to make a recurve and the tip broke....it wass to thinn i beleve.
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So simple a caveman could do it ;D. First time I've seen beveling the tips prior to adding the overlays - thought that would compromise the back (which it does) but doesn't matter at the tip? Beautiful work Gordon!
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Cowboy, it is okay to cut through the back of the tips because the tips do not bend - at least they shouldn't.
Akila, hazelnut is a good bow wood - it dries quickly and is easy to work. The tips on this bow were about 5/8" thick when I steam bent them.
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Thks a lot..i will go find some hazelnut in the woods....hope i can find some piece straigh.Yeah my tips where much thinn so this is why they broke...well it wass not realy broken but a splint came up so i could do anything after that becose it wass to much wood left ...so 5\8 its a good dimenson iff i want to recurve a tip or something like that.
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Akila,
It is likely that your tip splintered because you tried to recurve it too far without supporting the belly.
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Akila,
It is likely that your tip splintered because you tried to recurve it too far without supporting the belly.
you right..i didnt put nothing to supeort the belly... :-\
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just awe inspiring
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Did some tillering today. She’s starting to get a little string follow now – hopefully this wood will hold up. Here are some pics of it braced and pulling 55# @ 24”.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb088.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb089.jpg)
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Hi Gordon, After you have steam the stave and bend it into reflex................but after taking it out of the form, the steamed stave will be full of moisture from the steaming............. how do you get rid of this moisture?
Wong moisture in the wood make it soft? Thanks!
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10-4 on the tips, I wasn't considering the no bending thing. To my eyeball that tiller is looking real close...
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RT, I let my bow stand for about 2 days after steaming.
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Paul,
Tiller is very close. Mostly just reducing weight now - taking it slow and easy.
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Gordon, Thanks again for a great build along! 8) Your suggestion about bringing the string grooves almost to a point on the back just helped me figure out how to get even string grooves. ::) Thanks. Excellent work! 8) Pat
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Gordon, now that the tillering is done, you mentioned that you are going to "reduce weight" ?
How do you do this? remove material from the left and also the right limbs?
wont this removing of wood "Change" the tiller again?
Thanks!
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RT,
To reduce weight I will take off wood with long even strokes with a scraper - the same number of stokes on each limb. I will carefully monitor the tiller as I go and make corrections if necessary. The idea is to shave off a little wood along almost the entire length of each limb (be careful near the tips), exercise the bow, and then repeat until you reach your target draw length/weight. I'll try to post pictures later this week to help illustrate.
Gordon
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Thank you Pat. I'm pleased you found something useful in this build-a-long!
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Gordon, I just viewed the photos and read your notes. You have a veritable bowyer's manual in the making. The progression of photos is logical and that, along with your commentary, results in an easy-to-follow guide. I wish I'd had this helpful and clearly-explained set of photos when I first started out. I wasn't aware of these postings until today, when Dave H. sent out an e-mail.
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What a nice compliment HF, thank you!
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The bow was starting to show a little more set than I like so I tempered the belly again and then exercised the bow on the tree. Now the bow shows no string follow after stringing and a workout. We’ll see how long that lasts once I start removing wood again.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb100.jpg)
If you’re going to build wooden bows you have to learn how to fix problems. And here is a problem that you are likely to encounter sooner or later if you build enough bows. A compression fracture has formed in the handle area where a pin knot extends through the belly.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb090.jpg)
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I’m going to employ a technique that I learned from master bowyer John Strunk to fix the problem. I will fashion a patch from thick rawhide and affix it to the area of the fracture. This will transfer some of the compressive force from the belly to the rawhide thus relieving stress on the fractured area.
First I cut a rawhide patch about 4” x 1 1/8”. I then bevel the edges on a belt sander.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb092.jpg)
I soften the rawhide up by soaking in warm (not hot!) water for about 20 minutes.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb093.jpg)
And then blot the rawhide patch dry with a towel. I coat the now pliable patch with super-glue gel and affix it over the problem area. In this case the patch is longer than I need because it will also serve to build up the handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb096.jpg)
I let the patch dry overnight and then taper the edges into the belly using a small file.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb097.jpg)
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Now that the fracture has been addressed, I can continue the tillering process. The tiller is pretty good but I need to reduce weight. I do this by taking the same number of long and even strokes from each limb, about 5 – 6 strokes. After removing wood I exercise the bow by pulling it to its target weight about 20 times. This ensures that the wood removal is registered otherwise you run the risk of a sudden and unexpected loss of draw weight.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb099.jpg)
After each exercise session I measure the distance between the belly and string at about 6” out from the handle on each limb. I like the lower limb to be a little stiffer than the upper limb so I strive for about ¼” positive tiller on the top. That means the distance between the belly and string on the top limb is about ¼” greater than on the bottom limb.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb098.jpg)
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Gordon-
Wonderful build along, one of the best I have seen.
Your attention to detail building bows is certainly showing in this tutorial.
I'm glad to see your stave is turning in to such a nice bow.
Pat- work has been crazy, you stave will be on its way soon. Now you have a great guide when crafting your own.
Bryan
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Gordon, this is GREAT!....Brian
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Good job, Gordon. I hate compression fractures. You are right. Being a self wood bowyer means you need to learn to fix problems. Jawge
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Another good (new to me) fixer-upper, Gordon. I have a few bows in the corner of shame that will be getting rawhide patches. Thanks again for the helpful tips. ;)
Bryan, at your convenience!!! ;) Pat
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This is a great build along, Gordon, it makes me feel like I am looking over your shoulder day after day.
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I'm with the other guys - I look forward to checking this post (daily) it's like one of those books you can't put down :).
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Hi Gordon,
Great build a long, see the append threat that i have posted. My belly is raw boo and it has crystalised, can I apply the raw hide method as well? currently i patched up that area with a slice of boo backing. (4" long and as wide as the limb, 4mm thick
I am not too sure where I can get my hands on raw hide, any suggestions? can a hide of a wild hog do? how thich does it have to be?
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,3910.0.html
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Gordon,
You asked me at enumclaw whether heat treating the belly was a help on hazlenut....So whats your opinion???
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You asked me at enumclaw whether heat treating the belly was a help on hazlenut....So whats your opinion???
YES!!!!
RT,
I think the rawhide technique probably works best where the fractures are localized. Are you seeing crysals all along the belly?
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Okay RT, I saw a picture on your thread. That looks like a good candidate for a patch. I use cow rawhide that is about 2 mm thickness. I bet wild hog hide would work great. Otherwise I could put a patch in an envelop and send it to you in the mail. After applying the patch to a limb I wrap it with serving and then do a similar wrap on the other limb for looks. Here's a pic of a bamboo backed yew that I fixed in this manner. The fracture was caused by a knot that came through the belly and was rather severe. But it has not given me any problems since I fixed it - and I shoot this bow a lot.
(http://mysite.verizon.net/res0oeio/BBU/BBU2.jpg)
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Great bow as always. Thanks for the biuld along. Joel
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A number of bowyers that I hold in high regard have expressed doubts that the rawhide technique I used to fix a fret is effective. An alternative treatment that is proven is to remove wood to below the fracture line and then glue on a strip of matching wood.
Next up - final tiller
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The bow gained some weight after the heat treatment so it took a bit of work to get back to where I was previously. I’ve been scraping on the bow whenever I can sneak away into the garage for a few minutes. Here she is pulling 55# @ 25”. Tiller looks pretty good except the left inner limb looks like it may be bending just a little more than I like. I won’t remove quite as much wood from this area as I continue to reduce weight. String follow is minimal at this point.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb101.jpg)
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When you are in the final phase of tillering it is important to keep your tools sharp. That is because you need to have very fine control over how much wood you are taking off. I use a sharpening jig and diamond stone to keep my bowyer's edge sharp.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb102.jpg)
After more fine tuning of the tiller and wood removal the bow is pulling 55# @ 26”. I’m very close now and between each wood removal session I sand the limbs smooth and remove any tool marks. That way I don’t worry about losing weight due to a lot of finish sanding after I’ve hit my target.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb103.jpg)
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Gettin anxious to see that handle wrap and finish, that's my problem - I rush through tillering and screw it up to see the finished bow >:(. Patience is almost an art itself.....
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I’m very close to final tiller and target weight. Now I make certain that any remaining surface blemishes and tool marks are removed. I perform this step in natural light because the smallest flaws are nearly invisible in artificial light, but show themselves readily when the finish is applied. After blemishes are removed I lightly sand the whole bow with 150-grit followed with 220-grit.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb104.jpg)
The bow is tillered and just a bit over my target weight at 27”. For the next week I will thoroughly test the bow on the tree to break it in and then make minor tiller adjustments as necessary. But the hardest part is behind me. Now it's up to her - if she makes it through the next week of boot camp, she’ll graduate to bow status.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb105.jpg)
Next up – backing with silk.
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Tiller looks pretty good Gordon. ;)
why back it with silk? Isn't hazel nut a strong tension wood like hickory? ???
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Ryan,
The gentleman that I am building this for would like snakeskins on the back. Since I'm doing this I might as well add a little protection by puting silk underneath and it doesn't add any significant weight. Also I think it will make a good addition to the build-a-long. But I agree with you - the bow doesn't really need it.
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2 days into boot camp and she is holding up fine. I gotta good feeling about this one.
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Gordon that was one of the best build a longs i have read to date. thank you for all your photos it has helped me alot on this bow im working on now.
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I pulled the bow to full-draw about 1000 times – no issues and tiller has remained unchanged. She has graduated with honors and can now be called a bow. She’s going to get dressed up with snakeskins but first I’m going to apply a silk backing. The bow doesn’t really need a backing but since I’m giving it to someone else its good insurance against breakage.
I cut a strip of silk about 2” wide and long enough to cover both limbs.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb106.jpg)
I’m going to dye the silk a dark color to bring out the colors and pattern in the snakeskin.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb107.jpg)
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I rough the back of the bow up with some 100-grit sandpaper and then cleanup any contamination with denatured alcohol.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb109.jpg)
I then spread a thin coat of liquid hide glue on the limbs and will let it dry. This is called sizing the back and will help ensure that the silk will adhere properly.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb110.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb111.jpg)
After the glue has dried, I spread another thin layer on the limbs in preparation for applying the silk.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb112.jpg)
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After the glue is spread, I immediately stretch the silk along the bow and work the backing on with my finger.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb113.jpg)
After the backing is applied, I use a little water and my finger to smooth the surface and ensure that the silk has completely bonded.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb114.jpg)
I let the bow dry for a few hours and then trim the excess silk off with a razor blade.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb115.jpg)
Then I smooth the edges with sandpaper and a block making smooth strokes from the back to the belly.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb116.jpg)
And viola, the silk backing is finished. The tips are bare because I will be painting them later.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb117.jpg)
Next - applying snakeskins
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Very nice build-a-long Gordon, i'm really enjoying it! Just how much strength does silk add to the back of a bow? I'm pretty new at this kind of stuff and my first thought of silk is that it's pretty thin, how can it add much strength? I'm not doubting it, I just don't understand it.
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Shannon, silk is incredibly strong for its weight. It will add a surprising amount of protection to the back.
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How does it compare to thin rawhide?
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I'm not sure Shannon. I've never had a bow break that was backed with either rawhide or silk. I'll have to defer to others more knowledgable to answer your question.
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This is really good Bowyering,the Bow's looking wonderful!
I perform this step in natural light because the smallest flaws are nearly invisible in artificial light, but show themselves readily when the finish is applied.
Maybe one of the reasons it was illegal for bowyers in medieval England to work after sundown.
Andy
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Outstanding buildalong, Gordon. To answer the question, rawhide is stronger than silk but silk will do the job of keeping the back together most of the time. I've used it and have felt and seen splintering through the silk but the stuff kept the splintering down. Jawge
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thanks for taking the time for doing this build along. I have learned a lot from this and cant wait to see the finished product. excellent workmanship as usual.
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thanks for taking the time for doing this build along. I have learned a lot from this and cant wait to see the finished product. excellent workmanship as usual.
I concur... so many things i need to try :D
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Before applying the skins I will build up the bow’s handle. The handle on this kind of bow can be uncomfortable because it is shaped for bending and not holding. Building up the handle will make it more comfortable to grip and shoot.
I cut 2 more strips of rawhide and bevel the edges on the sander.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb119.jpg)
The strips are laminated together using superglue and then shaped using a file.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb120.jpg)
I cut a strip of thick leather, glue it to the back and shape it. This will make it more comfortable for the shooter when wrapping their fingers around the handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb121.jpg)
Here is what the handle looks like when the build-up is completed.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb122.jpg)
The bow is now ready for the snakeskins.
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by adding the rawhide, does it stiffen the handle some and make it bend less? if so, does this increase the poundage? do you also use super glue to attach the rawhide to the bow? (sorry for all the questions)
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Dave,
The rawhide may have made the handle bend somewhat less, but I can still feel it flex slightly in my hand. The poundage has not changed. Yes, I used superglue for bonding both the rawhide and the leather.
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I do a similar thing with all my bows to fill out the back of the handle. I use thick shoe leather. I have a few bendy handle bows that I used leather on back and belly and I usually use Tite-Bond. Excellent tutorial, Gordon. Pat
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hi gordon! - so far i had only little time to look through your build-along; i'll work my way through it in the next days! but from what i've seen so far i agree with everybody: it's GREAT!!!
frank
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I'm waiting on the snakeskins to be delivered. I hope to receive them this week. Sorry for the delay.
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the suspence is killing us.. ;D
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Gordon,
Just trying to get caught up this buildalong was one of the first that I'm seen. AWESOME !! Very well written and informative. I chuckled several times because I have always thought that some of my own ways of shaping and forming bows to be somewhat hokey and not to modern. But when I saw that I'm not the only one hanging weights from a bow in a vice, I was greatly encouraged. Also the way you clamp blocks to your bench.
Having a steel fab shop I have found myself hanging all kinds of tubing or steel scraps when needed.
Like JJ said can't wait to see that beauty finished. Keenan
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Keenan,
Are you saying I'm not modern! :o
I take that as a high compliment! ;D
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"I’m going to dye the silk a dark color to bring out the colors and pattern in the snakeskin."
Gordon, are you saying that the Snake skin picks up the bows back colors? I'm assuming the snake skin has scales that are somewhat translucent. Is this correct?
Myth
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Myth,
Yes, it creates more contrast between the pattern and the background. If you do not do this, the pattern tends to wash out - at least that has been my experience with rattlesnake skins.
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With some of the thicker skins snakes, like Eastern Diamondback and Timber rattlers, I don't think it is as critical as with the western rattlers, copperheads and other thin skinned snakes. The bow I'm hunting with this year is an osage self bow with a prairie rattler backing. The osage yellow does show through but I don't mind the design not being very vivid.
I have never darkened the back of the bow before skinning so I have a biased opinion. I'm sure I will try it at some point. Pat
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I understand. You guys taught me something new, thank you. :)
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I ordered a matched set of rattlesnake skins from Pine Hollow Longbows for this bow. I had a problem with the first set of skins I received, but the folks at Pine Hollow took care of it immediately and I had a replacement pair within 2 days. That’s great customer service – thank you Mike!
I’m going to use Titebond liquid hide glue for this job. The back of each limb is first sized by applying a thin coat of hide glue and then letting it dry.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb123.jpg)
Each skin is hydrated in warm (not hot!) water for about 5 minutes. Then I remove the skins from the water and blot them dry on a towel.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb124.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb125.jpg)
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I spread a thin coat of hide glue along the back and then lay down the first skin starting from the tip and moving to the handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb126.jpg)
I carefully stretch and adjust the skin so the pattern runs down the middle of the limb. Then using my fingers, I remove any air bubbles that are trapped under the skins. This is important as air bubbles will result in cracks in the finish.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb127.jpg)
When the air bubbles are removed, I trim away any excess skin by running a razor blade along the edges of the limb. I keep the blade angled away from the back to ensure I don’t accidentally remove too much skin.
I repeat the process for the other limb.
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There is no need to wrap the limbs as the hide glue has great affinity for snakeskin and literally sucks it to the surface of the limb. After allowing the skins to dry overnight, I smooth the edges of the limbs with 150-grit sandpaper and a block. I angle the block toward the back to bring the skin just slightly back from the edge. This will help prevent the skin from lifting after the finish is applied. I sand by making strokes from the back to the belly and from the handle to the tip. Take care when sanding as the skins are delicate and may tear if you are too aggressive.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb129.jpg)
You must remove the scales before a finish is applied. Some folks use adhesive tape to do this, but I’ve torn skins using this method. A better method is simply to run coarse steel wool gently over the skins in the direction of the scales (from handle to tip). This will quickly remove most of the scales.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb130.jpg)
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As you move the steel wool over the limb listen carefully for any whisper-like noise. This indicates a bubble trapped underneath the skin that will have to be fixed. To remove the bubble, first use a fine needle to poke a hole through the skin. This will allow the air to escape.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb131.jpg)
Then take a warm iron and gently heat the area under the needle hole. This will liquefy the hide glue and fill the void created by the bubble.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb132.jpg)
Finally, use your fingernail to remove any remaining scales
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb133.jpg)
And here is what it looks like when done.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb134.jpg)
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looks nice Gordon. how come you left the outer limb uncovered?
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I left them uncovered because this bow will have painted tips.
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This is going to be a fantastic looking bow Gordon.
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great info gordon. did you not use glue on the skins, but just on the bow? I have not seen the tightbond hide glue before, is it readily available? I have enjoyed the build-a-long, cant wait to see the finished product. thanks for the info. :)
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Dave,
You don't need to put glue on the skin if you use hide glue. You can get titebond hide glue at any fine woodworking store. Here is where I get mine:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=350 (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=350)
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Gordon, let me join the parade of praise for this buildalong. Wonderful information, and I learned quite a few things from you. I am also impressed with how neat and organized your shop area is. Chaos is more my style, so I have to do better there!
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Great build along Gordon, I am keeping this one in my favorites so I can look at it when I am building bows. Thats one beautiful bow and it looks like a shooter. I finally have a stave dry enough to work on, got it floor tillered the other day, hope to finish it in the next few weeks. Let me know when the next bowyers meeting is. Greg
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Bowmaking is aready an art, but you are one of those rare people who raises the bar........about a mile.
Sean
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After letting the bow dry for a couple of days I made some minor adjustments to the tiller and then final sanded the bow. I used 100-grit to remove any remaining tool marks and then lightly sanded using 150, 220, and 320 grit paper.
I’m going to stain the bow using an alcohol based dye. I’m going to use a black dye for the handle accents and tips and light brown for the limbs.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb135.jpg)
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I start by applying the black dye to the area around the handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb136.jpg)
I then use a rag soaked with denatured alcohol and an abrasive pad to feather the color into the limb.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb137.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong//hzb138.jpg)
Next I dye the tips black.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb139.jpg)
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After the handle accents and tips are done, I apply the light brown dye to the limbs.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb140.jpg)
The dye will raise the grain slightly so after it dries I lightly sand the stained areas with 600-grit sandpaper.
And here is the bow after the stain job is completed.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb141.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb142.jpg)
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Just one word, "WOW!" Otherwise, I'm speachless. I've been gazing at your bow unable to leave the page. its a true beauty Gordon, I love the color fade black to brown.
Mike
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A true Master Craftsmen....Gordon, when they make the 5th Bible, I believe you will be in it......Brian
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Thank you Mike, but there is still more to do - put a border between the limb/snake and tips, stitch a leather handle, build an arrow rest, letter the bow, and put on a finish. Lots to do yet, but the end is in sight.
Brian, I am flattered by your compliment - but I think I have a ways to go before I'm in that league - but thank you.
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Ok Gordon, TBB 6 a chapter on Vine Maple. Joel
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Here's a beginner bowyer question that you might help me with: Since we mustn't violate the back of the bow, the tip inlays have me wondering -- with the inlays you demonstrate a few pages back, you show cutting angularly into the back at the tips to accept the hardwood inlays. The hardwood adds strength to that area, but still, doesn't this create a place of weakness where the inlaid hardwood meets the existing bow back ? Since you didn't back the bow up into the inlays, how does it handle this stress? I certainly feel I'm not explaining my question very well here. I'll attach a picture - the point in question is where the arrow points; the line between the tip overlay and the bow back itself. How does the bow wood handle this line between no back and the hardwood inlay? Do they overlap some that I might have missed in the photos?
I'm certainly not being critical; being critical would assume I knew what I was doing - and I've proven over nearly a dozen VM logs so far that I very positively do NOT ...yet. :)
Thanks Gordon!
Mike
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Beautiful bow Gordon, I have to say , I have learned much following this build a long. RT
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Mike,
I design my bows so that the last 2 inches of the tip do not bend. That's why cutting into the back is not a problem.
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Mike,
I design my bows so that the last 2 inches of the tip do not bend. That's why cutting into the back is not a problem.
Good to know; I figured you'd have had it figured out - I thnk I might give that a try. Thanks!
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Actually, it's more like 3" inches of non-bending tip. But who's counting :D
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Gordon, you are the man!!! Awesome work my friend.
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Next I am going to trim the tips in order to hide the transition between the skins and the painted tips. For this job I’m going to use red no. 4 Brownell nylon serving thread.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb143.jpg)
I cut off about 3 feet of thread and begin wrapping from the tip toward the skin.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb144.jpg)
When I have about ¼” left I form a loop with a short piece of thread and wrap over it.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb147.jpg)
When I am done wrapping I thread the end of the serving through the loop and pull the thread underneath itself and out again. This is called whip finishing. I then trim the end close to the wrapping with a razor blade.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb145.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb146.jpg)
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Finally I put a few drops of superglue on the wrappings to hold them in place.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb148.jpg)
And here are the trimmed tips.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb150.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb151.jpg)
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they need to make this builalong into the next copy of the magazine. Man this is this serious!!
Are you planning to sell this bow or is it for keeping on your wall to put all the other bowyers to shame hahaha
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Thank you for the compliment BB. I am building this bow for a gentleman that lives in Washington state. Based on my conversations with him I expect that he will be shooting the bow (and not just hanging it on a wall). This build-a-long has been nice in that I have been able to collaborate throughout the process with him.
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Heck of a nice build along Gordon, Thanks for sharing and BTW Have a Merry Christmas ;D
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Gordon, You have topped the chart with this buildalong !!! I'm sure all would agree that we are thankfull to have such a skilled bowyer showing and sharing in detail the techniques that bring about an awesome bow such as this. You are a humble man to say that you aren't qualified for to be in the BB. However there are many of us on here that would gladly learn from your talents. Thanks again for all you do for PA. Keenan
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DITTO!!!! ;D
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I’m now ready to begin applying the finish. I first wipe shellac on the snake-skins. Shellac will stick to almost anything and helps ensure that the finish will adhere nicely to the skins.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb149.jpg)
I like Tru-Oil for a finish because it is easy to apply, it’s durable, is simple to repair and results in a beautiful finish.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb152.jpg)
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I dab the tip of my finger lightly in the Tru-oil and apply evenly over the surface of the bow. I usually need to repeat about 4-5 times to cover the back of one limb. Be careful not to apply the finish too thick or it will create unsightly runs.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb154.jpg)
When the back is done I remove the bow from the vice and apply a light coat of finish to the edges.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb155.jpg)
Then I clamp the bow again and apply a finish to the belly.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb156.jpg)
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When I’m done applying the finish, I inspect the bow looking for runs. If I see one, I simply smooth it out with my finger. I then slowly rotate the bow for about 5 minutes. This will ensure that the finish flows evenly over all the surfaces.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb157.jpg)
I turn the bottle of Tru-Oil upside down to prevent it from hardening in the bottle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb159.jpg)
In the winter I let the bow dry at least 12 hours between coats. In the summer months it can take as little as 4 hours to dry. Place the bow somewhere warm and dust free to dry.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb160.jpg)
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After a couple of coats have been applied, I’ll sand the skins between coats to remove the little “nibs” at the tips of the scales. With some 220-grit paper I sand lightly in the direction of the scales (from the handle to the tips). Be careful not to overdo this step as it is easy to sand through the skins – a couple of light stokes is sufficient. You’re not trying to smooth the skins in one step – it will happen gradually over the course of several coats.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb163.jpg)
I’ll also lightly sand the wood surface with 400-grit sandpaper about every 3rd or 4rth coat to remove embedded dust and other surface irregularities. After sanding I wipe the bow down with a clean cloth and then blow any remaining dust off with compressed air.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb164.jpg)
Here is a close-up of the tip after about 4 coats of finish. In all I will apply about 10-12 coats of finish. But before I go much further I will need to letter the bow.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb165.jpg)
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Your craftmanship is worthy of praise Gordon. I have been following this build along, and obtaining the same materials from the same suppliers you have been using. My bow is a simple Maple board bow, but the finish I am applying to it is going to be like yours. We'll see how I fair. ::) (this is my 3rd bow) The only things I may do different on mine is leaving the wood its natural color, and I haven't decided if I will take the snake skins all the way to the tips yet. Your string method really looks cool I may opt to go that way.
Myth
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Bow is coming along very smoothly Gordon - looks great so far. One question for ya, why do you not go all the way to the tips with the snake skins? I've heard (or read) PatB say that the serving wrap will abraid your string over time (which is a good reason) is that your reason also? Thanks....
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One question for ya, why do you not go all the way to the tips with the snake skins?
Purely decorative Paul. The gentleman I am building this bow for liked the black tips that I did on an ealier bow and wanted the same.
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Thanks Gordon, that does make for an attractive bow ;D.
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Gordon: Outstanding build-a-long. You've set the standard, and now that the Hazelnut's nearing completion, what are you going to do next so as not to leave us hanging?
Otoe
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Thanks Otoe. It will probably be a while before I start another build-a-long - they are a lot of work to pull together. I'm kind of hoping that this will spur some of the other excellent bowyers on this site to do the same. Some of the build-a-longs that I would love to see include a short recurve (hint to RyanO), west coast indian flatbow, bamboo backed tri-lam (hint to bowmo), self-backed flight-bow, turkish horn bow, osage character self-bow, a Gauva longbow (Manny?) and a sinew backed juniper brush bow (Keenan and/or Dave). There are so many great bowyers on this site just think of the wealth of knowledge that would release.
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After a few coats of finish have been applied it is time to sign the bow. For this task I will enlist the help of my wife Jayne who has much better handwriting skills than I do. She will use white acrylic artists ink with a calligraphy-style pen.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb167.jpg)
The area to be lettered is prepared by sanding lightly with 400-grit sandpaper. My signature is written on the top limb and the owner’s name and bow specs on the bottom limb.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb166.jpg)
And here is what the lettering looks like when done.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb169.jpg)
Now I can continue applying the remaining coats of finish to the bow.
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Good idea :). I did the same, that's about as far as wifey gets into bowering ;D.
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Gordon, thats comming out real nice. :) I'm thinking about taking the whole build along thing one step farther and making my own how to video. We just got a new digital camcorder and computer that came with editing software. I have the technology, right now I just don't know if I'll have the time with a little one on the way here in a month! :o
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Ryan, if you do decide to make a video please, please make it one of your recurves!
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Gordan that turned out great and my wife also dose the wirghting on my bows,my
wrighting looks like crap.Very nice job.Ryan love to see a recurve video.Maybe I could understand that. ;) ;D Of course you would make it look way to easy.
Pappy
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I tried to get my wife to do the writing on mine and she told me "You made it you Sign it" ;D
I just haven't found the right bribe yet ;)
Gordon great build along glad you took the time to do this and share it with us.
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Thanks Dana, but there is more yet to come. The weather has been rainy so I have to wait a long time between coats of finish. Also I will not be able to work on it over the holidays so I won't have any updates until January.
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Will do on the recurve thing. ;D I just have to find the time to clean my messy shop before I can start any kind of video....... :P
I don't want to be embarrassed. :-[
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After 10 coats of Tru-Oil the application of finish is complete. When I return from vacation I will add an arrow rest, wrap the handle and rub out the finish.
Have a happy holiday all!
BTW, any of you guys live in the Phoenix, AZ area?
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Great read Gordon, in my book you're one of the best bowyers around nowadays.
It's good to see the different tecniques used, you're surely high tec :D :D
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Manny, you are much too kind. It is you who inspires me. Someone who can craft a bow with little more than a sharp blade and an uncanny feel for the wood. I strive to be more like you someday.
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10 coats of Tru-Oil have been applied and allowed to cure for about a week. The bow is ready to build the foundation for a handle wrap. First I wrap the handle area with 50# braided Dacron fishing line and soak it with superglue. This will ensure that the rawhide and leather handle build-up will stay securely in place.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb169b.jpg)
I am going to fashion the arrow rest from a wooden golf tee. This is a trick that I learned from John Strunk. I first flatten the top of the tee using a sheet of sandpaper laid on my bench.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb170.jpg)
Then I grind the tee in half using 60-grit sandpaper and trim the tail off.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb171.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb172.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb173.jpg)
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The rest is glued to the handle using gel superglue and clamped.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb174.jpg)
Using a small file I shape the rest and feather it nicely into the handle. I then stain the rest a dark color.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb176.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb177.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb178.jpg)
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I seal the works by spraying it with 4-5 coats of urethane.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb179.jpg)
Next up – rubbing out the finish.
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glad to have youposting on this again...its been a looooooong wait! :D you just keep amazing me with all your little tricks youve either learned or figured out. keep it comming!
Phil
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Gordon you are the greatest! A golf tee for a rest, what a great idea! Thanks for this buildalong it has been great. Can't wait till she is all finished up. Actually I will be a little bit sad to see this BA done. I would love to see a BA on one of those gnarly VM staves you are so good at. ;D
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I don’t care for a shiny bow so I will rub out the finish to create a satin look. The materials I will use are 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper, course/medium/fine synthetic steel wool, and medium and fine pumice.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb180.jpg)
First I lightly sand the finish using water and 600-grit paper. This removes any imbedded dust and surface imperfections. Be very careful as it is easy to sand through the finish particularly when working the edges.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb181.jpg)
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Next I rub the finish down with course synthetic wool, followed by medium wool and then fine wool.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb183.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb184.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb185.jpg)
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By now the finish is very smooth but rather flat looking. I will polish the finish with pumice stone to restore its luster. I start by mixing the medium/course pumice with vegetable oil to create a slurry that is about the consistency of maple syrup.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb186.jpg)
I dip a clean rag in the oil and pumice mix and wipe the finish down with it. It takes surprisingly little rubbing to polish the surface.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb187.jpg)
When I am done with the medium/course pumice I wipe the limbs down with a clean rag. I then follow-up with the fine pumice stone to bring out the grain and give the bow a deep satin luster.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb188.jpg)
Next up – wrapping the handle.
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very nice. I like the pumice idea.
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Justin and Phil,
Thank you so much for the compliments. I must say it has been all my pleasure creating this build-a-long. As I said early in the thread, the primitive archer community has given me much - it is a delight to be able to give something back. I think I will be a bit sad also when this BA is completed but I look forward to seeing some of the other recent BA's develop and learning from them. I do think that a gnarly vine maple bow build-a-long is in my future.
Thank you again.
Gordon
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Thank you Dave. The pumice is key - it litterally makes the finish glow.
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Gordon you are a true Master craftsman. Your carefull work and attention to detail is far beyond what most people do. I know that my respect for you and the time and dedication that you poor into each bow has grown even more through this BA that you have done.
I am very thankfull for what you have given back to PA through this buildalong. I have learned alot and know that I will strive even harder to make better bows because of it. I look forward to the day of coming over there and learning even more from your skills, in person Thank you. Keenan
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Man, you put a lot of work in your bows 8) :o
...very enjoyable Thread !
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Here is picture of the tools and materials that I will use to wrap the handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb189.jpg)
I am going to fashion the handle from a piece of tanned elk hide. Using a rotary cutter I cut out a piece that is about 4 ½” square.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb190.jpg)
I then wrap the piece around the handle and fit it at the top, middle and bottom of the handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb191.jpg)
Using a pencil I connect the marks which give me a line to cut along.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb192.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb193.jpg)
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Next I use a thonging chisel to create the holes for the lacing. I'll trim the length of the leather to about 4 1/4" and make sure that I have an even number of holes on each side.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb194.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb195.jpg)
I use black dye to dye the leather including the edges.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb197.jpg)
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I will glue the leather down in area around the arrow rest to hold it in place. For this I use barge cement on both the leather and the handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb198.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb199.jpg)
Let the cement dry for about 15 minutes and then carefully position the leather on the handle and work it around the arrow rest.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb200.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb201.jpg)
For the lacing I will use kangaroo leather as it is extremely tough and wear resistant. I cut off a length and attach leather needles on each end.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb202.jpg)
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I begin the lacing like I am tying a shoe. I thread the lace underneath and through the top two holes leaving the ends the same length.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb203.jpg)
Next make a cross stitch by threading each end through the holes on the opposite sides.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb204.jpg)
Then thread each end through the next hole on the same side.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb206.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb208.jpg)
Now make another cross-stitch and repeat for the length of the handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb209.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb210.jpg)
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I cut the leftover tags back, tuck them under the leather handle and secure the works with a couple of drops of superglue.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb211.jpg)
I like to treat my finished handles with a leather lacquer finish. It helps the leather resist dirt and oil and the handle will look much better after hard use.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb212.jpg)
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For the arrow rest I’ll use a piece of stick-on leather. I use a plate to help me make a nicely shaped rest.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb213.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb214.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb215.jpg)
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The bow is finally done! Here are a few pictures of the completed bow.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb217.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb220.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb221.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/HazelnutBuildALong/hzb224.jpg)
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I'll post more pictures including a a full-draw on the main forum in a day or two. Right now it's storming in the Pacific NW and I can't get decent light.
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Thanks Gordon, I have to admit you build some of the most beautiful bows and your handle wraps are incredible. It is buildalongs like this that really help primitive bow building grow. Thanks again, Justin
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Gordon
You the Man!!! Your attention to detail and craftmanship is outstanding.
wvflintknapper
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Gordon,that was a super build along.I kept up with your progress,(with great anticipation) from the beginning to the end. God Bless, Pete C
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That is one beautiful bow Gordon!! Like the rest - this BA needs to be hardcopied for easy reference. Has been enjoyable!!
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FANTASTIC !!!
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Justin, thank you for the compliment. I’m just happy that many folks found something useful in this build-a-long.
Wvflintknapper, I guess I do tend to be a bit obsessive about detail. I think that trait was passed on from my father who was a master cabinet builder. He tried to teach me woodworking skills, but I was never interested. But after he died I discovered wooden bows. I think he’d really get a kick out of this if he were still alive.
Pete, thank you. The build-a-long was a lot of work, but to be honest, I’m a little sad now that it’s done. I may have to do another when I become more familiar with some other bow designs and styles.
Cowboy, I’m glad that you find the bow pleasing. Interestingly enough, a number of my friends have asked if I would make them a hardcopy of this BA. May have to do that…
Manny, I’m always humbled when you compliment my work. You’re one of the best artists I’ve seen. Thank you.
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Fantastic!
If I said more right now, I'd just taint the mood..... this finale deserves a moment of silence....
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Thankyou Gordon, outstanding BA...any newbe should check this out...all you need to know to build a bow....Brian
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Thank you BW. The process of documenting every step of the process makes you realize just how much goes into the making of a bow – it doesn’t seem that way when you are just doing it. It was a long build-a-long and I’m relieved the bow and I made it all the way. I think a moment of silence is in order.
Brian, you hit it right on the nail. I recalled how I struggled with even the simple things when I started. I doubt there is anything in this BA that would surprise the more experienced bowyers on this site. But if this BA demystifies the process for even a few newcomers I’ll feel that I have succeeded. I guess time will tell…
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Wow. thats all i can say, just wow. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. if i were in charge id put this as a chapter in the new traditional bowyers bible. like was said before so much valuable information here that every bowyer should have to reference to. The bow turned out beautiful! my hats off to you my friend. thank you.
Phil
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sometimes it's really hard to find words cause too much superlative wears out fast! ...but what else could one use but superlative in this case??
gordon, you're a master (with austrian hat and without!!! ;D )
thanks for sharing your knowledge,
frank
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Nice build along Gordon, very detailed and my complinints to the photographer the pictures were well taken and in focus.
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Gordon. That's incredible. Thank you so much for sharing.
Moderators: Is there any way just Gordon's posts and pictures from this build-along can be consolidated into one file? What a tutorial that would make.
Otoe
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Thanks a lot Gordon, your build-a-long will prove invaluable for me on all of my future bows. As you may already know, I'm a neophyte and recently finished my first bow. My next bow will be a simple D bow and I'll be coming back to your build-a-long for extra guidance. Thanks again for the tip on handle/arrow rest placement. Joe H
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Is there any way just Gordon's posts and pictures from this build-along can be consolidated into one file? What a tutorial that would make.
With Gordon's permission, I had been putting his build-along into a published pdf format. There was so much talk and want of it getting integrated into the Bible, I felt all the work it was taking me to do it would end up being for not - so I stopped.
I could finish and post it if more than a few are interested - and if Gordon approves it. Its just a time consuming process, I want to be sure it'll be worth the time.
I'm not publishing a book, just putting the photos and his comments into a more readable format.
Mike
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I am for it :)
wvflintknapper
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I absolutely approve Mike. I've had several inquiries to this effect. You would be doing me a great favor.
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outstanding bow Gordon! I learned a lot from this. although I was looking forward to learning the "strunk" handle wrap. ;) looking forward to you coming to the Traditional Archers of Oregon banquet later this month, be sure to bring this bow along. I think all of us on this site realize that we need to come up a notch or two in quality on our bows. thanks again. PS.... your dad would be proud!
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Dave, I'm looking forward to seeing you at the TAO event. I can show you how to do the Strunk wrap if you like - it's not really that difficult. Thank you for the compliments.
Gordon
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Gordon. That's incredible. Thank you so much for sharing.
Moderators: Is there any way just Gordon's posts and pictures from this build-along can be consolidated into one file? What a tutorial that would make.
Otoe
I was trying to figure that out myself, I do have an idea. Ill do it tomarrow. Justin
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Mike: Obviously I'd be interested in a consolidated file. Thanks to all for your hard work.
Otoe
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I am new member, this is a fantastics thread as it the site.
Thanks Gordon!!!
Ghost
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Awesome!!!!!!!! Just absolutely AWESOME!
Mike, add me to the consolidated file list
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I'd like a consolidated version as well. Lot of good detailed information Gordon! I especially enjoyed reading concerning your finishing techniques. Thank you for the effort you put in to post this build along. :)
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Wow, I need to quit making assumptions I guess. I was thinking that the cleaned up post Justin made was good enough - I loved it - but I guess, it is nice too, to have a single published file. Ok, I'll try to make some time this weekend to finish it up. A warning though, its pretty graphic intense, as you know, so the file size is pretty large -- I think the pdf, at this point, is somewhere around 7mb. I'll work to see if I can compress it some more, but not certain. But with high speed internet, its not bad.
Regardless, I will post it to a personal space on my business website (non-business related) and make it accessible for you folks to download. Thats better than email, and this gives you the opportunity to download at your leisure.
Is that fair to all? Primitive Archer? and Gordon?
Mike
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Wow, I need to quit making assumptions I guess. I was thinking that the cleaned up post Justin made was good enough - I loved it
Just to be sure, you guys have seen Justin's Tutorial version of Gordon's build along, right?
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,4815.0.html (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,4815.0.html)
-m
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That sounds great Mike. I will have several friends who will download it immediately. Thank you so much for doing this.
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I just found this thread after being away from this site for some time consumed with other projects, work, and life.
But I gotta tell you gordon you are an inspiration.
I have admired your bows and your craftsmanship for a long time and never commented on any of them up til now. However, now I have to say thanks. I know you have received a lot of praise on this build along and on your bows over time but I wanted to add my voice to the many thanks and praises you have already received.
I learned a lot from this build along. It is great to see a master craftsman at work and the pics are worth a thousand words. I know it probably slowed you down in you build process but you sure helped me and I'm sure a ton of others like me who often read and rarely comment. I know my attempts at building bows will improve because of some of the things I have seen in this build along. Once again thanks much. I hope to one day be 1/2 the artisan and bow builder that you are.
Thanks
N2
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Once again I can only say Wow it is quite possibly the most beautiful bow Ive ever seen.
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Now thats a beauty. Excellent work.
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wow that is some very good detailed work really like the golf tee trick. i just learned a world of info from you. thanks.
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I'm a guy from Philippines who wish to inter in this business, I learn a lot of things on bow making,Gordon,thiis is my very first time. I saw the whole process on doing this snakeskin backing. I got a technique, I learn a lot of things on doing this. Thank you so much
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very nice buildalong, I enjoyed every bit of it, and learned quite a bit too. thanks for all your effort. You're a true craftsman. Brokenhand ....Aho.
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Thank You for sharing such a fabulous bow with us. Your workmanship is truely a work of art! The amount of information in this build-a-long is unbelievable. Your love of the craft is so very visible in this finished bow. Just beautiful! Thank You again.
Chasing Crow
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Just seen this build along.
Thanks for taking the time to share, I know how long it can take to photograph and write up a piece like this.
Bravo, wonderful bow, and you do a great job of showing your working methods.
Del
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I didn't think that folks were still reading this post so what a nice surprise. Thank you all for the compliments!
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I didn't think that folks were still reading this post so what a nice surprise. Thank you all for the compliments!
I'm new here and just found this yesterday. It helps, thanks.
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Gordon,
I just joined the site yesterday (was approved today), and found your tutorial. I was feeling a little silly because I have two pine boards for practice, and then bought a HUGE purpleheart board for $45. This was after telling my husband I didn't want to buy any expensive wood until I was sure I wanted to do this. I thought he'd shoot me.
After seeing your build-a-long, I am quite smitten before ever touching the wood. I will, of course, have to get a band saw. I can't imagine not sticking with this after seeing the step-by-step here. You have made this completely accessible to me, as I know very little about woodworking, and you have my thanks.
Sincerely,
Deb Keough
Montana
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This is one of my all time favorite posts, I lose track of the number of times I've come back and looked at this.
Oddly, Today, I can't see any of the wonderful pictures. Is it just me? I don't even see html code for the image links.
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You have made this completely accessible to me, as I know very little about woodworking, and you have my thanks.
Sincerely,
Deb Keough
Montana
I have to echo what Deb says. Seeing a stave or board... and seeing the finished bow that comes from it - that can be more than a little daunting for a newbie.
I love the build-alongs because they get down to the nitty gritty and explain in layman's terms how each step is worked through in preparation for the next step. Really very much appreciated, guys. I'll try to keep it going ;)
Steve.
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Thank you all for the compliments.
There seems to be a problem with the service that I use to host my pictures - that's why there are not showing. Hopefully that will clear up soon.
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This build allong needs to be seen again ;D Im sure allot of you have seen this but there are allot of new guys who may not have yet. I found this on a search when I first joined. I was doing a search on John Strunk as I had found out he lives about 10 min from me and wanted to learn as much as I could about him and his work. I quikly found Gordan mentioned what he had learned from John more than a few times so I went into stocker mode ;D and found this thread and have read it about 5 times, it is very helpfull and one of the best build allongs I have ever seen period. Thanks again Gordan you are definately a top notch bowyer and hope to meet you some day in the future.
Josh
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Gordon: When I first started building bows, I did a lot of research on the internet. I came across your Hazel Nut build along and saw it was linked to Primitive archery.
In short,,, your talent inspired me to join. In one of my recent replies, to one of your posts; I stated you are a Bow God, and I meant it.
I salute you Gordon. Keep up the good work.
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Is it just me or are all the images dead?
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ElkTracker, I had the pleasure of meeting John Strunk recently at his place. I really gained a new appreciation for a good finish job after seeing his bows, they felt like a well worn bar of soap in the hand, so soft and smooth, very beautiful!
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How do we open the images?
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Looks like my ISP reclaimed the space. I'll have to repost the pictures somewhere else. I'll get to it as soon as I can. Sorry about that guys.
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I had saved an offline copy of this and cant find where I put it :(
Would love to see these pictures again when you get the time.
Thanks.
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I fixed the pictures - sorry it took me so long :-[
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Thanks very much Gordon, this was a great buildalong. Someone mentioned earlier one can learn so much with seeing the photos along with the information. I have learned a grat deal and can't thank you enough for giving back as you say. Thanks Again Mike O'Connor
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Thanks again Gordon, I know now the tremendous patience and attention to every detail is required to build a bow of the quality you produce...it doesn't discourage me, it inspires me!
I will now have a much better understanding of how, and a greater determination to do. For your labor of love for your craft and to this community, we are all very thankful.
Lyle
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Hey thank you Mike and Lyle. I really appreciate the nice words.
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Wow, what a beauty! Excellent craftsmanship.
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I just wanted to bring this one back to the front. ;D One of my favorite build alongs.
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Referred to your great build along for the upteenth time. Can't thank you enough for it. Absolutely the best
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I didn't think that folks were still reading this post so what a nice surprise. Thank you all for the compliments!
We're still reading it!
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I have read it three times within the last 2 days! Very good and I have learned a lot. I will be following your tillering process. On the bows I am currently working on. Thank you!
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I just keep coming back to this thread, musta read the buildalong part 25 times now. I have a stave of hazelnut, 84 inches long, that has been drying since last October. Not sure what Im gonna do with it yet......I'm thinking looooooong flatbow. This thread has taught me so much, it could be the best buildalong Ive found. Thank you!
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Wow just wow....
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I didn't think that folks were still reading this post so what a nice surprise. Thank you all for the compliments!
Yep, your ba is still being read. In my case, over 'n' over again.
Your results, however, will likely not be duplicated by this poster. But they certainly are impressive!
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Looks amazing. Good job :)
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Gordon, I am so pleased to find this thread after several years being away from bowbuilding. Your bows have always set such a high benchmark.
I cut a vine maple stave the other day up near McKenzie Pass, and though immediately of you.
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I can't believe folks are still reading this build-a-long. I am humbled, thank you for all your kind words.
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Gordon, I read this all the time. At least twice a week. It's kinda like watching a movie, you always pick out something different every time you see it. It's very well done and written. Thanks again, Patrick
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Gordon,
Just finished reading your BA today. It is very helpful. I have made 8 bows and have taught some others how. This will help me reach a new level.
God Bless,
Perry
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beautiful bow!
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I just harvested my first Hazel today, put it in the search, and this popped up! Holy cow, such inspiration! Thanks for doing this BA. We have loads of Hazel around here, so if it makes a good bow, I am very happy!