Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Fred Arnold on January 22, 2016, 04:22:04 pm
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I need to know who hasn't been contacted with their recipients name and bow specs.
I lost my first database sheet on my word processor and had to start over about halfway through the signups.
We want all of you especially the newest to this fantastic hobby and craft to enjoy and learn. By participating and asking questions you should be able to turn out a bow you'll be proud of. 8)
I need to know who hasn't been contacted with their recipients name and bow specs.
I lost my first database sheet on my word processor and had to start over about halfway through the signups.
Okay gentlemen the cards have been shuffled and here is the current members list. A few more maybe to add and then the wheel gets spun for the drawing. Hope you are all as excited as I am.
half eye
hammertime
turtle
Swampman
Mo_coon-catcher
tatoo dave
Tower
DuBois
pincushion
TimothyR
Gutshot
ajooter
Drewster
Dakota Kid
Blaflair2
kid bow
ty_in_ND
PlanB
jandersson
stixnstones
jeffp51
Loope
mwosborn
David Ewing
dylanholderman
Fred Arnold
stuckinthemud
Otter
sidmand
cabinetbowguy
Ryan C
Ranasp
Since this will probably be the smallest PA bow trade and there will a lot of new and younger participants than normal I've decided to add a little icing on the cake this year.
I will build a sinew backed osage and all participants in this years trade will be entered with the bow going to the winner of the drawing.
Every month there will be a drawing for the new members that haven't participated before or have under 1 year under their belt.
I will donate either a stave, draw knife, Nicholson rasp, sinew, arrow shafts, or something related to bow building each month for those showing the most participation. This is not how many times you've posted but rather what you've posted. We want to see what you're working on. The more pictures you show and questions you ask the more you'll learn and assure that you will likely send out a bow you can be proud of.
Anyone wanting to donate items to this cause will be a great help. I want to see this with at least if not more participants than the invitational :laugh:
I'll be posting the sign up and rules shortly.
For all of you old timers on here I know you'll be glad to give advice and help these new guys out.
That's what it's all about.
Cheers ;)
#1 Send me a PM with
Full Name
Full Address
Email Address
Telephone #
Which countries you will ship to (duh :P)
#2 Reply to this thread saying you're in with the following information:
Bow specs preferred
Example LH or RH
Draw weight 45-55# 10# increment
27-29" draw (3" increment with the missing number being your actual draw length
#3 If a new member (1 year or less) or never built a bow before you must send me a PM for
verification.
And if your under the age of 18 I will need to speak to you and parents via email and
telephone.
I'm not going to turn anyone down whom I believe is serious about fulfilling their obligation.
#4 All members including myself must participate actively by posting progress reports,pictures,
asking questions, and helping those in need. Anyone not participating regularly after the first
30 days will be removed and the bow being built for them will be either passed to someone
else or given to a charitable cause.
#5 No bows are to be sent out individuals who are not participating. If you are ready to ship
early please make sure that your recipient is doing their part in the trade.
#6 Any questions please ask them here and someone will respond. Pm me only for private
discussion as my mailbox may be peaking.
#7 through #10 left open in case we don't have enough rules.
#7 State which area of the map you are willing to ship to. I knew there was a reason to leave my
rules open to modification.
We want all of you especially the newest to this fantastic hobby and craft to enjoy and learn. By participating and asking questions you should be able to turn out a bow you'll be proud of. 8)
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I'd might as well get in on this. I have an ich to build a sinew backed ERC, so that's what will probably be leaving my hands.
Right hand
45-55 pounds
26-28"
If you want to make a short bow with short draw or a massive warbow, go for it. I'm open to anything.
Prefer to stay within the states but willing to ship international if need be to fill a spot.
Kyle
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right hand
draw weight 50-60
27-29 inches.
I honestly don't mind what style as long as its hunting weight and shootable. I look forward to seeing what everyone has going on.
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Fred,
I would be proud to trade bows with any of the new members.
handed....dont care
draw......dont care
weight....maybe about 50 + or - whatever
Make the best bow you can, I'll appreciate it.
rich
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Rich,
I'm elated!! ;D Thank you for your support.
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Fred, your a good man for heading this up....I'm sure it will benifit the new builders. I'll see what I can come up with to throw in the "stew-pot" as well.
rich
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Fred I wont be participating in the trade but I will donate something for the incentive thing.
Jon W
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Thanks Jon!! I sent you a PM.
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I'd might as well get in on this. I have an ich to build a sinew backed ERC, so that's what will probably be leaving my hands.
Right hand
45-55 pounds
26-28"
If you want to make a short bow with short draw or a massive warbow, go for it. I'm open to anything.
Prefer to stay within the states but willing to ship international if need be to fill a spot.
Kyle
Minus building a sinew backed erc you nut haha....which I can't wait to see btw :D. All my stats and sentiments are the same!
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I'm in.
RH
55# and up
28"-30" draw, but I can short draw just fine if someone wants to make a shorty or horse bow.
To whom ever will be making my bow,
No pressure at all. This is more about getting to know the board members and having fun than getting "your money's worth" in my opinion. As long as you enjoy yourself during the process, I'm happy to receive your creation.
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ajooter and Dakota Kid, read rule #1
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Dakota Kid, :D Got yours in my emails after I logged off.
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I'm liking the attitudes and talk thus far, for this trade. I hope we can make this a great trade again. Count me in. I'll send you a pm shortly Fred. I'll be happy to receive any bow from anyone, no matter what the persons experience level!
Glad to see you joining in also Rich! I'm looking forward to seeing some bows soon. I put a silk backing on a hickory bow today, after getting it roughed out.
Tattoo Dave
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I'm in! :)
My normal (not essential.... ie. shortdraw horsebow, longbow, etc. ) specs:
RH
40-50#
26"-28'"
Really open to just about anything interesting, but that's what I shoot normally.
(sorry, just one request...... no snake skin backs. thx.)
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Im in
Lh
50 and up
25-29
open to anything
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I'm in again this year.....enjoyed last year's trade.
RH
40#-50#
29" - 31"
I would be delighted with any style bow.....and hope I can help others some too. Let's roll!
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Sounds like you are off to a good start, Fred. let me dig through my goodies for a drawing donation.
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when do we find out our recipient?
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Thanks Mullet for the extra help. I've had a few of the guys in the Invitational already offer their help and support. We really appreciate it and hope you watch over us and give advice.
Hey guys JonW donated a stave for our monthly rewards program. What do you say to that? ;D
I'll post the match ups after I feel we have enough commitments to make it interesting. Sometime shortly after the 1st of FEB. Our deadline will be mid August so that will give us over 6 months to make sure we do this right.
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I'm in. Here is my info.
RH
45-65 pounds
26-28 inch draw
I am open to anything too. I also shoot well with a shorter draw if need be.
Looking forward to this. Mike
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Getting excited...I would be more then happy to donate some shwag to the cause.
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Urban Dictionary: Shwag
www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Shwag
"shwag" is short for "shwiggity shwag" which was birthed from the phrase "sliggety slag": a cute reference to slag bud. "Slag bud" is marijuana that has been highly ...
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It dont say in the rules anything about what cant be traded. I mean, we are tryin to motivate folks to join right?
If that dont get folks to gather in i dont know what will. Way to make it a joint effort.
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Urban Dictionary: Shwag
www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Shwag
"shwag" is short for "shwiggity shwag" which was birthed from the phrase "sliggety slag": a cute reference to slag bud. "Slag bud" is marijuana that has been highly ...
Highly what?
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LMAO!!! I don't reference the urban dictionary Fred and im not in the position to donate and 'shwag'. I think of that word defining materials associated with a certain brand or common theme. I literally just made that up and I hope it works.
Although some hemp cordage could be a good donation. :P
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Swag is the more appropriate word if used rather broadly.
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aj, Dumb me didn't know what it was so I yahoo'd it and first thing I run into was that. I'm so tired I didn't look any further. It did put a smile on my face though.
I'm going to the easy chair to read a book and will check back in before bed time.
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I should have used the spell checker...I does raise a red flag to shwag :laugh:
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Swag is basically "goods".
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As apposed to low quality Mexican brick weed. :laugh:
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On a more serious note, is 6 months enough time for those planning on a sinew backing? I was toying with the idea, but I'd hate to watch all my potential work time disappear while waiting for hide glue to cure.
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Dakota,
If you have not made enough sinew backed bows to have a good feel for timing, just a suggestion that you develop a plan more within your knowledge base. Not being a jerk, but try to do a bow you like, and do it really well.....then you wont have the time thing sneak up and bite you.
rich
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I'm in
RH
Draw weight 40#-55#
Draw length 28"
I'm ok with any design I just want to hunt with it
I all ready have some pics to show. So can I do that here? Or are y'all gonna make a new thread for that?
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I've done a couple sinew backed bows but am no expert. Both were short recurves, one yew and one osage. I just left them on the rack to dry for 8 months or more before I retillered. Most of the recommendations/readings I found suggest waiting a year. If it can be ready before that it would be welcome knowledge and I'd probably make more of them. It is an impressive backing material to say the least.
As far as running into trouble, I usually need to have at least three bows in progress at once so I can rotate when I need a break from one. I'll have more than one option if something goes awry with plan A.
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I skipped last years trade and it was more difficult than I thought it would be the year before that!
But I am in for this one!
RH
40-60#
26-28"
When does the action begin?
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Well it looks like we're going to be setup with names drawn by the 1st of the month and deadline will be mid August but I don't expect any of this bunch to be that late. I see a lot of enthusiasm from these young guys and fully anticipate 100% out of everyone who has responded.
We have an even dozen participants at the moment chomping at the bit.
Even though you don't know your recipient yet you are more than welcome to post pics of what you're working on and let us know a little bit about yourself.
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Well now, I sort of got started yesterday. Went to the wood bin and dug out a few sticks and brought them into the shed (unheated) to clean off the snow and size them up....then into the house for a couple days to warm them up. but here are a couple of pictures of the current state of affairs.
We have had a mild winter so far, but it's tryin hard to make up for it....last couple of weeks more than 70 inches. Of course there is also the obligatory gale force winds. So anyways, here are the pics.
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Those look wide rich....I see half a dozen bows at least!
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I've done a couple sinew backed bows but am no expert. Both were short recurves, one yew and one osage. I just left them on the rack to dry for 8 months or more before I retillered. Most of the recommendations/readings I found suggest waiting a year. If it can be ready before that it would be welcome knowledge and I'd probably make more of them. It is an impressive backing material to say the least.
As far as running into trouble, I usually need to have at least three bows in progress at once so I can rotate when I need a break from one. I'll have more than one option if something goes awry with plan A.
A few layers of sinew on wood, with hide glue will dry plenty in 2-4 weeks during cold northern winters. That gives you time to make 4 or 5 of them.
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Good job Fred!
Thanks for giving your time and energy to this
Have fun folks
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Rich, those are nice looking staves. I've never worked ironwood.
As for my sinew backed osage, I have a nice black walnut I found in my pile that has been drying indoors for over 3 years that I've decided to use instead. It will only require a couple of sessions of heat straightening and will be ready to back.
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Im in
Rh
40-50 # 28-30 inch draw.
Desgin dont matter to me what ever you send i will be happy have fun
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well Fred, you way ahead of the old guy.....I got 'em split down to a size that I can work on, and will have the bow preforms finished by this evening. Decided to cut a bunch of different sizes since I dont know who my victim is.....anyway, should be good to go by time the names get put out.
enjoy the pics
rich
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Your a machine rich. How do you reduce your staves? I'm a hatchet man myself.
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Rich, 8)You're a tougher old man than I am. I'm not going out in that snow till the sun turns it to water. I've already got 8 or 10 down to bow dimensions hanging on the rack or laying in a pile.
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I started last week in anticipation of a trade. I have a couple mulberry billets that I'm working on and an Osage character stave that I've got almost to floor tiller they will both need some heat correction.
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Dont believe that for a new york minuet Fred.....I'm trying to decide between Eastern Woodland, Mollegabet, Penobscot or maybe a 5 curve.....man all this thinkin is gonna hurt my head >:D
AJ A hand axe is the way to go for sure....but it dont work for one handed guys so I cheat and use a bandsaw for the rough outs then go to the hand tools. By the way that bow your working on looks like a fine specimen to me. By joining the trade ya talked yourself right into starting another one, eh?
That brings up the issue of: What are you making >:D >:D
Timothy ya been holdin out bud, this is gonna be so cool
rich
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We've had a really mild winter here, too, Rich, but almost no snow either. I haven't plowed once yet, knock on elm. Guess there's a ways to go though.
Here's a big elm stave I've thought about for something special. I'm also torn between wanting to do ten different kinds of bows. I think this is what I'll use, though.
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeElm1.jpg)
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I don't know rich...gonna rough out two staves. Try my hand at a recurve and another longbow of sorts. I was really happy with the way that other hickory is coming out. I still need to post pics of that Osage you coached me thru. It came out really nice.
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Like I said before fellas, I'd rather have a bow from one of you than all the a-listers on the site. We are gonna have some fun cause of you guys that joined in and are workin hard.....man I love this stuff.
Plan B, Elm makes some screamin nasty bows ....cant wait to see yours bud.
rich
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Progress already, looking good fellas! I have some dead standing ironwood I got from rich. I got it roughed out and need to heat some twist out of it. I tried yesterday, that stuff is named correctly that's for sure! Trying to bend the twist out is damn near impossible. I also have a hickory stave I started tillering last night.
Tattoo Dave
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;) This is an invitational also. We asked for people to step up who wanted to try a bow and you have responded. I may have asked a few pointed questions but we haven't turned anyone away yet and don't plan on it if they will make a commitment. This is about learning and having fun.
TimothyR and PlanB those are both some fine looking wood you're working with.
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Nice response so far guys. I didn't want to take away from the annual swap and it looks like it is going to flourish this year.
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If you guys get the chance post a photo of yourself. I don't have any good ones but at least you'll know what my mug looks like.
Last two are of my 2 sons and I next to a big cottonwood down by the creek bed.
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Fred - That Cottonwood's just beggin to be made into a burnt out canoe project! Nice pix sir...
OneBow
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I got a few staves picked out. It was hard deciding between a highly charactereed stave and letting it be what it wanta to be or a clean stave I can do as I please with. I went with clean this time for ease of making with how busy this spring and summer is starting to look. I picked out an ERC that will be either a mollegabet or recurve, a walnut that'll be a pyramid since I havmt done many of those, and a black locust that'll be a reflex deflex. Ill mix and match staves between this and another trade for which will be the best to send to which recipient and the third will be the backup. I can't wait to get my names to get started. Now to start pounding sinew during the slow spells at work.
Kyle
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All I have is hickory so I'm going to probably go with a bendy handle of sorts depending on my candidates draw and then a stiff handled flatbow or longbow for a backup. I should hopefully have some progress pics up later.
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I'm thinking a lam bow rd molly osage belly wenge core bamboo back with purple heart statics
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Looks like everybody's gearin up!!
I'm pondering on my wood pile and will make some decisions on a couple of the best...but no hurry, right? HAHAHAHAHA >:D >:D
That's what I thought last time and it came right down to the last week or 2 after a few failures and less than my best bows.
I'm thinking a lam bow rd molly osage belly wenge core bamboo back with purple heart statics
Hey Pin,
Like how you're keepin it simple ;)
No really,
That should be awesome to see.
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Looks like everybody's gearin up!!
I'm pondering on my wood pile and will make some decisions on a couple of the best...but no hurry, right? HAHAHAHAHA >:D >:D
That's what I thought last time and it came right down to the last week or 2 after a few failures and less than my best bows.
I'm thinking a lam bow rd molly osage belly wenge core bamboo back with purple heart statics
Hey Pin,
Like how you're keepin it simple ;)
No really,
That should be awesome to see.
thanks "Doo Boys" I'm exited to see what you make too you have a unique style. >:D >:D
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Ok count me in. I'm a better knapper, but I have been working on a few bows lately.
RH
50-70 lbs.
28"
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Hi all! I will also be participating in this trade. While I was thinking about doing something like this next year (after a few more bows under the belt) and even though I haven't been super active in posting, I really want to do something for this site as I've learned so much from all the great bowyers here! I also want to be part of the solution to the tarnish that's built up on the bow swap. This site has such a great community, it needs something like this to help restore some faith.
With that said:
Right Hand
40-50 lbs
30-32 inches (yes, I do have a 31" draw... I'm newer to bow building but I've been practicing with "traditional" archery equipment for a while now)
While I would intend to hunt whitetail with this bow (and would appreciate a bow that's not 6' long!), I do know a longer draw length does provide for challenges when it comes to limb length. At the end of the day, a nice shooting bow is all I could ask for, regardless of length.
I'll start preparing materials this weekend. I can't wait to build something for someone other than family member, it'll be fun!!
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All of you are welcome here to what I believe will be the best bow trade ever. I love your attitude!!!
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Had to sleep on this one but sure I m in.....45-50# I shoot lefty 26" draw would be happy with any style make or model-Hammertime
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Wow Fred your doing a bang up job!!! This looks like it's going to be a good one.....
DBar
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Why not a 6' longbow, Ty? It's not like there are any trees in North Dakota for you to run afoul! Bwaaahahaha! (I get to poke fun if ND, it's my home state.)
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Must be all that schwag....
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Damned Fred, ya got to know the hat makes the man, right...mad bomber >:D I like your secrete to being comfortable while workin on your bows too.
rich
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Got a hat like that this Christmas from the nieces. Man, the ear loppers are boss. Wish I'd had it last winter. Only problem is I can't hear much through them, like the neighbor yelling at her 11 untrained dogs all day.
Not.
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Why not a 6' longbow, Ty? It's not like there are any trees in North Dakota for you to run afoul! Bwaaahahaha! (I get to poke fun if ND, it's my home state.)
:P The lack of trees also means finding good bow woods from local sources is a challenge. Most people put in poplar and cottonwoods for their shelter belts (we're too far north for osage to survive)... Supposedly there are hackberry trees throughout the eastern river edges (where I live), but I haven't gone looking yet. It sounds like a fun challenge, though!
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Here s a hickory curve I have been working on(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/photo%209_zpskseqpdqz.jpg)....One of a variety of canidates
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I dug through my stash last night and pulled a this piece of wood out of my pile.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/66F8E957-718E-4C9D-A11B-01F5BFF03B55_zpshx6asxqv.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/66F8E957-718E-4C9D-A11B-01F5BFF03B55_zpshx6asxqv.jpg.html)
I started reducing it down to bow dimensions.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/EED96827-6DCE-4461-ACAC-0DCCB2FA8224_zpscpw2vwyp.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/EED96827-6DCE-4461-ACAC-0DCCB2FA8224_zpscpw2vwyp.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/796DE688-F68F-4C9A-B544-71A665D228D7_zpsw2dgnu7f.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/796DE688-F68F-4C9A-B544-71A665D228D7_zpsw2dgnu7f.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/47FEA251-8037-4583-8E0C-3CCED9DEDC0E_zps9efvmhmp.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/47FEA251-8037-4583-8E0C-3CCED9DEDC0E_zps9efvmhmp.jpg.html)
This is a wood I haven't seen bows of on this site so I will see how it bends. I also have a piece of elm, black locust and ironwood roughed out for plans b, c, and d.
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What kind of wood is it, swampman?
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I got a couple staves of alder that look just like that.....
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Hammer, thats a fine looker right there
Swampman you guys are leaving me in the dust....looks like everybody is off to a good start
all of you guys are serious aint ya? better get my butt in gear
rich
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My guess is beech.
I have an "art bow" in progress with a beech stave. The wood was a better bow wood than I would have thought. It ranks with the other top white woods. The plan was to shape the limbs like snakes swallowing the handle. The airbrush the color on both sides. I may put that into the mix of potential candidates. I have a rock elm stave that I'm making into a mollie as my #1 for the trade. My plan B will be an American hornbeam that I haven't picked a style for quite yet. I have a yew sapling/branch that needs to be a bendy handle which I may also choose depending on my guy's draw.
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I was wondering about using beech. The deer won't eat it, and it's overgrowing most other trees.
Lots of low branches and knots, but I think I have a few nearby saplings with fairly clear trunks. Maybe I'll cut a few tomorrow just to check it out once it's dry. Looking forward to reading about your experience with the bow, Dakota.
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PlanB, that stave is birch. I have heard it can make a serviceable bow. I cut it in 2007 from my Grandfathers land on the day he passed away. I haven't been inspired to work on that piece of wood until I was digging through my pile of wood last night. I hope there is some good mojo in that piece of wood. I am leaving it long for now and not touching the handle ( in case I get someone with a 31 inch draw). If that happens it may be a 68 inch bendy handle bow.
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Swampman I built a black birch bow this year, with over 1800 arrows through it so far. It's kept 1/2" reflex.
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/NewBirch28.jpg)
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PlanB, that sounds very encouraging. So far the wood is very nice to work with. I got some more work done this afternoon with a rasp. It is not bending yet.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/B6BF58B1-0B4E-4C20-A2AC-138A81FDC864_zpsrg4gmwce.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/B6BF58B1-0B4E-4C20-A2AC-138A81FDC864_zpsrg4gmwce.jpg.html)
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I'm in
LH
45-55#
25-27" draw
I'm excited and eager to get started.
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good deal gutshot....Fred's got some computer access issues that will be resolved by tomorrow but you are for sure welcome sir....
rich
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Real high stiffness wood swampman, my limbs finished out at 3/8" x 2" mid-limb on a 64" ttt for 40# @ 28", if that helps.
(that was de-crowned -- ie. board bow)
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Thanks PlanB. I am planning 2 inches wide for the majority of the limb. The length will depend on the draw length of the person I get. I may work on getting a couple other staves roughed out just to keep my options open.
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Well, I havn't spoken much at all on here, But I been lurkin! This whole trade thing is a cool Idea. I have been carving out bows since 198something. Most have been Osage with a couple Vine Maple, Black Locust and board bows when I lived on the Canadian border and had no decent wood to work. As much as I would love to participate I am going to have to pass. I moved back to Kansas and do not have any seasoned Hedge/ Osage. Love the community of brothers here and I am really looking forward to meeting a few of you at some gatherings this summer. I will certainly continue lurking and drooling over the selfbow works of art. Larry
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Well, I havn't spoken much at all on here, But I been lurkin! This whole trade thing is a cool Idea. I have been carving out bows since 198something. Most have been Osage with a couple Vine Maple, Black Locust and board bows when I lived on the Canadian border and had no decent wood to work. As much as I would love to participate I am going to have to pass. I moved back to Kansas and do not have any seasoned Hedge/ Osage. Love the community of brothers here and I am really looking forward to meeting a few of you at some gatherings this summer. I will certainly continue lurking and drooling over the selfbow works of art. Larry
Hey Larry, I bet someone here would help you with a seasoned stave......come on and join the fun.
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Heres where im at...I have 4 hickory staves that Ive roughly layed out...nothing much in stone yet. I have found that when I reduce a stave I have the best luck laying the stave out from the belly side and starting about 2 inches wide. Once I have the back profile roughed out to about 2 inches I then reduce the belly to a heavy uniform thickness leaving room to still bring the stave to floor tiller. I then once again reduce the limb width a little more now that I have a clearer picture of the belly. I am amazed how some of you guys are able to lay bows out from the back...it never really works out for me so I opt to do it from the belly side with better success. The stave I have reduced has a heavy deflex kink in one of the limbs so it will be interesting to see how that plays out.
(http://i.imgur.com/Opg1qOQ.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/E23nUsQ.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/akLpcgv.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/YPJrPF1.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/JVIE4eY.jpg?1)
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Lookin good guys. Computer problems seem to be fixed except the email server is going to be down for awhile. Half eye will take care of your questions if this server goes south on me tomorrow.
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(http://i.imgur.com/RK37sFA.jpg) (http://imgur.com/RK37sFA)
(http://i.imgur.com/o9AcOy8.jpg) (http://imgur.com/o9AcOy8)
not the best quality photo but Monday and teusday when I'm off of work ( finally!!!!) ill split up this osage orange and see what I can do for a stave. or maybe ill use the hackberry stave and sinew back it a little bit.
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Some nice staves being shown here. I'm glad to see you all showing enthusiasm.
kid bow, I have some hackberry that I spliced together from billets. I've never finished it but really like the feel of that wood.
If any if you guys are "needing a stave to work for the trade" I've found some donated that you can have but you would be required to pay the shipping.
I also have some blanks that aren't tillered out that I would let go same terms.
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Well, there's good news and bad news.
I will be taking a trip to Kansas sooner than I expected since my oldest sister died early yesterday and there will be a service down home. She struggled a lot through life with her own worst enemy but it was still sad and sudden. Don't know if any of you remember one of my first posts "Sisters Broken Bow", but it was hers. I don't need any condolences or such, I just feel fortunate to have what I do and I appreciate you all here.
Well, I havn't spoken much at all on here, But I been lurkin! This whole trade thing is a cool Idea. I have been carving out bows since 198something. Most have been Osage with a couple Vine Maple, Black Locust and board bows when I lived on the Canadian border and had no decent wood to work. As much as I would love to participate I am going to have to pass. I moved back to Kansas and do not have any seasoned Hedge/ Osage. Love the community of brothers here and I am really looking forward to meeting a few of you at some gatherings this summer. I will certainly continue lurking and drooling over the selfbow works of art. Larry
It would be a privilege to bring you a stave or even 2 for this trade if you could be so persuaded?
Not sure exactly when yet but I'll be between Lawrence and Fort Scott for a couple of days soon.
Let me know Larry.
You know, last time I entered this trade my dog died.
I just emailed Sleek hours before I found out about my sister and mentioned taking a springtime trip to Kansas with a bison hide for him and then I could ask the current owner of my Grandpas old farm there about cutting some osage for a tribute bow. For Christmas I sent my sister a photo from old negatives I found of her on my Grandpas motorcycle at the farm when she was about 6 years old. Now, in a way, I'll be lead back there by her and visiting where we were first born and raised with her ashes to spread. Interesting how things happen if you pay attention. It's beyond me, that's for sure.
Oh yeah, almost forgot...
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Fred, Hedgehog or anybody else that wants in but got no wood I'll be happy to give you some dried Ironwood (HHB) and if you dont mind the saw will even cut it down to near bow size.....you cover shipping and the wood is yours....
rich
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Count me in. :)
Right hand, 45-55#, 26-28"
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I signed up a while back, but just noticed I never posted my stats. So here they are.
Right handed
40-60#
Draw- 24-28"
Tattoo Dave
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I've got Black locus and Osage staves dried out just can't get to them for blizzard we got here in Ky. But I do have 1 BL stave in the basement I just found. I'm gonna get started on it. Post pics later when I figure out how to do it again. It keeps saying the pic is to big.
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Just a thanks to you, then, DuBois for generosity. The rest is unspoken by request, but there for all, I'm sure.
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Hey Turtle & Gutshot glad to have ya join in fellas and welcome...
At it again Marco? good on ya man
rich
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Returning home is a wonderful thing dubois. For both of you. Let me know when you are going to be in kansas. I will do everything i can to meet you up there. I am only 15 min away from the border.
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I've been working the last couple days and will be off Monday and Tuesday. I'll get back on things then and this coming weekend. I've got mt-13 epoxy for the sleeves but does it require heat to cure? What is the best to use that doesn't require heat. I don't have a hotbox to put the staves in. Or do y'all have any other suggestions for the sleeves? Thanks Tim
P.S. I got the sleeves from Carson at Echo archery so their brass and steel.
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Tim, MT 13 requires no heat. Nothing better for metal to wood bonding of sleeves. 24 hrs and you're good to go.
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Thank you Sir! Thank what I was hoping to hear!
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::) I'm warning you all to be careful about that Sir **** ;D
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If anybody has trouble posting pictures email them to aaron.hollenbeck@gmail.com with your username and I'll get them right up....I use imgur to upload pictures if anybody needs a walkthru on how to resize and upload pictures I'd be happy to help them.
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::)I'm warning you all to be careful about that Sir ****
Hooah! Sir! Won't let it happen again sir. ;D
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;D Do you guys realize we started this less than 48 hrs ago?
Here's some interesting stats:
We have 18 participants so far
As a percentage of participation vs hits, we beat the other two trades combined ;)
I'd like to see a few more pics of what everyone is going to be working on.
Also like to know either by a post or a PM if anyone doesn't have the proper tools they need to get started.
The list of participants will come out shortly and there are only a couple of entrants that are not involved as much as I'd like. That does concern me. In the long run it's the only stipulation that really counts if we're to have 100% success rate with this trade.
One question at the moment for all of you: Who's ready to start laying out their profile on their stave or bow blank?
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I'm definitelt ready. Stave is picked, Sinew shredded, just need specs to pick out out my shape. I can't fully decide between bendy handle for compactness or a stiff handle to show off more of the beautiful ERC heartwood. I'm thinking a stiff handle. But it will be a mollegabet. Any idea of how much snake skin sheds will help as a moisture barrier when glued on with TB3? I know a full snake skin helps but I have a pair of ball pythons and would like to include their sheds on the bow when finished.
Kyle
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It sounds like this is going well so far. Fred, I've got one stave at floor tiller, one bending to about 16" and one more roughed out. All bendy handles, cause those are the best ;)
Tattoo Dave
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Fellas,
got me some ironwood cut down to near size so it can have a couple days to come up to temp and get rid of any ice.....cut out for a couple of Penobscot.....
While waiting on the wood, I'm going to be making an eastern type quiver in the long fringe style. The skin is fawn hide that was tanned long ago (cant remember if brain or acid), plan to have the quiver faded color, with Iconography, and twisted raw-hide strap. Think it will turn out well, but wont look like one of the plains style.
Here's some pics
rich
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forgot toi say that the quiver is for the trade "incentive" system. Fred if ya get a chance let me know to send it to you or wait for ya to draw a name.
rich
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My profiles are already done on two of my liklies. I've got a couple mor staves hhb that i got from half eye. I need to know if they are seasoned. But likely he had them a while before I got them. I need to put a curl on my scrapers and I'm ready to go! Just got to get the hang of it.
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This guys English is a bit too perfect for this old country boy but an an excellent example on how to finish off a scraper in case anyone besides myself has ever had that problem.
https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=sharpening+cabinet+scrapers&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-002
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I will be getting at it shortly. Just needed to take care of a few honey-do things!
Pics will, of course, be in shortly as well.
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Oh man, this group is pumped. This should be fun. Glad we already have 18 signed up........hope we get 30.
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That would be awesome Fred. Where in Nebraska are you located. I could possibly take a drive to pick up a stave.
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I favor the open trade, because as it has been said enough times in the past, this trade typifies the best qualities of this community.
To that end, I am offering up some Black Hills Gold as a trade "sweetener". One pint of raw, unfiltered honey from my beehives and a big lump of beeswax. Just shoot me a p.m. telling me where to send it and when.
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My house and now.
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Thanks for the offer to help. I just sent a message to, DuBois. I expect him to contact me about a meeting place soon to do some trading. I have many Osage staves but they are just too green. It is awesome to finally be in a group of like minded folks. Thanks for helping a brother out.
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8) Thanks JW. You're a good man!!!
Hey guys how about we do a drawing right after picking names from the hat for the winner on this one. Everybody can use beeswax and honey.
hedgehog, I'm in central Nebraska about 40 miles Northwest of Grand Island.
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Just an update, I am working on the bow and taking pics, but I won't be able to post any pics until later. Rest assured that they will be uploaded later!
:D
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Hey Timothy R.....That HHB is ready to work, sir. Cant say it's aged but it has been split for a year.
Sounds good Fred on the drawing
rich
PS: Fred, what about we see if we can get a few more new bowyers involved...maybe you fellas know some other guys who are committed and want to make a trade?
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I favor the open trade, because as it has been said enough times in the past, this trade typifies the best qualities of this community.
To that end, I am offering up some Black Hills Gold as a trade "sweetener". One pint of raw, unfiltered honey from my beehives and a big lump of beeswax. Just shoot me a p.m. telling me where to send it and when.
Oh boy! I have experienced SD gold before. That is some wonderful stuff.
I have 4 staves reduced down. One is floor tillerred. Although the one that is floor tillerred is plan d.
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I just finished up night shifts this morning and start 12hr days tomorrow. So I'm not going to get any staves dug out untill at least Thursday. On a side note I think I might get my brother talked into joining the trade also.
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Rich, I'm all for getting some of the newer guys involved. That's what this one is all about.
What do you other guys think.
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turtle, we can wait until Thursday. I won't have the drawing until everyone has posted a pic of their stave or bow blank. Thursday is the 28th and we didn't plan on drawing until the 1st day of the month. That still gives us over 6 months to get our act together.
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Rich, I'm all for getting some of the newer guys involved. That's what this one is all about.
What do you other guys think.
In the past, the trade has stood for inclusivity, with few exceptions. You are the Trade Runner, your rules, though.
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Here a piece of ERC I have been working on...good up to brace height...ready for sinew-Hammertime(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/43874c88-4122-45d4-8260-5664e422b703_zpslryoffmg.jpg)
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Son !!!!! that's a fancy stick right there Mr. Hammer
rich
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Wow!! That is a gorgeous chunk of wood. Looks like some of you guys are ready to roll,
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Oh Lordy, Hamster...that ERC looks sweeeeet!
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I swear I can smell that ERC from here!! You are getting busy Mr. Hammer!
Here's front runner so far after some workin it down and heat sessions.
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yeah I really like it, light as a feather and easy to work. Just hope it holds up-Hammertime
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final profile on #1.
And...another osage I started just prior to joining trade so it is in the running also.
I made it to the MIL's garage and got these 2 out of the rafters. I had been saving them for something and not sure that one of them won't become #1 before its over.
Kansas Mulberry ;) and a monster ___?
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Sweet lookin ERC! Everything looks awesome so fare!
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Got this one down to 1 3/4 "wide and the tips narrowed down to 3/4" next up I'll taper the belly down until I get some bend going. I have a knot on the side of the stave that I left wide in case it does something funny when I start reducing the belly. The knot heads in towards the center of the stave at an angle.
(http://i.imgur.com/HfpSgwN.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/QpMr6om.jpg?1)
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I remembered I had a sweet set of vinemaple billets from Bryce Ott hidden inside. Been saving these for a special occasion. Will still dig some osage out of my shed for backups when I get the chance.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/20160124_180947.jpg)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/20160124_181014.jpg)
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Man you guys are SMOKIN..... 8) 8) 8)
Turtle, maybe ya could use a big ol chunk of ironwood to convince your brother? Hell man the way all you fellas are gettin after it I'm way behind and by the time my wood thaws you all are gonna be workin on your second ones.....damned >:D >:D >:D >:D
rich
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Heh, guess I'll be starting sooner even than I thought....just broke my new red maple Meare Heath bow tillering, which was the project I wanted to complete first. Now it's complete. :laugh:
re stock -- I alreaady posted a pic of the elm stave I have for this trade bow, but I also have backups of two dry black birch staves, so I'm set to go. I would like to see who I've picked cause that will give me a better idea what I want to build for them -- the hard part is deciding what bow next!
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Heh, guess I'll be starting sooner even than I thought....just broke my new red maple Meare Heath bow tillering, which was the project I wanted to complete first. Now it's complete. :laugh:
re stock -- I alreaady posted a pic of the elm stave I have for this trade bow, but I also have backups of two dry black birch staves, so I'm set to go. I would like to see who I've picked cause that will give me a better idea what I want to build for them -- the hard part is deciding what bow next!
Well, looks like you are on to PlanB... Sorry. I'll show myself out. ;D
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Plan B,
sorry about your red maple man....if it will help you out at all, I have some hard maple staves ready to work.....not many maybe 4-5 but you are welcome to them.
rich
Weylin, you a BAD man >:D
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:laugh: :laugh: no prob Weylin. It was a good break.... from tillering. :laugh: :laugh:
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I've got a little pile of sinew stripped out and some more pieces ready to be pounded. And here's the stave I'll be playing with and the workshop I'll do my carving. I just gotta put the clamp back in the bed.
Kyle
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I'm pretty sure that meare heath bow that broke was started before this trade got started, correct?
Plan B, I was hoping that bow would make it, breaks happen to all of us though.
Rich you shouldn't be worried about the rest of us...I'm pretty sure you could make a bow in you sleep at this point. ;)
Tattoo Dave
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Half Eye thanks kindly brother, but I'm all set that way.! Also been eying some HHB trees I've held off of, but seeing your hhb molly from awhile back has made me get an itch for a little winter chainsaw work.
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Man you guys are SMOKIN..... 8) 8) 8)
Turtle, maybe ya could use a big ol chunk of ironwood to convince your brother? Hell man the way all you fellas are gettin after it I'm way behind and by the time my wood thaws you all are gonna be workin on your second ones.....damned >:D >:D >:D >:D
rich
I would be afraid of ruining a good piece of hhb. He's the little feller on the left in this pic. Stands at 6'5".
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/misc/Pappyandbackup.jpeg)
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I'm pretty sure that meare heath bow that broke was started before this trade got started, correct?
Plan B, I was hoping that bow would make it, breaks happen to all of us though.
Tattoo Dave
Yep, that's the one. Break was interesting though, and I'll write it up tomorrow when I stop crying. :laugh: :laugh:
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That's a pretty intimidating bunch you're hanging with.
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I think we are going to need a bigger boat......(Jaws)
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Ok, i would like to join the fun if yall will have me. A couple things, been havin trouble postin pics for a long while, like my past 4 bows. Lookin for a different pic poster app thing😄. And (b) i'm outta osage, have a bunch of hackberry which i have not worked before, but confident i could get a good bow from. So now its up to you guys to decide to take me.
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Hackberry is good bow wood just like Old Milwaukee is good beer.
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hey stix,
send the old man a pm please....and dont forget to send Fred your info.
rich
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Stix I can post pics for you and I can show u how to use imgur which is what I use....I'm sure Fred will still bring you on.
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Here's the hackberry i will b workin. My specs are, 45-55# @ 26-28". Any style would be awesome
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Awesome, finally found a pic app that works😄
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Alright I finally have some pics to put up. This first one is the staves I will be working/ choosing from top to bottom we have: HHB, Rock Elm, Spalted Hazel, and the beech art bow I mentioned before with the snake limbs.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/staves%204%20bow%20trade_zpswuocbbb5.jpg)
I'm kinda leaning toward the spalted hazel. The biggest reason being that the wood itself is almost a one of a kind, and gorgeous to boot. When I asked about the wood, no one had seen anything like it before. I was warned that spalted wood may be an issue, but it was confined to the center of the stave. I made a stiff handle and kept the spalting out of the working areas and ended up with a good looking nice shooting bow in the 55# range.
Here's that bow and the sister stave from the first pic.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/spalted%20hazel%20stave%20amp%20bow_zps6bg5tlzv.jpg)
Here's better shots of the coloration on the stave and the close to finished bow.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/hazel%20heartwood2_zpsbxmp2t36.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/spalted%20hazel%20bow%20handle_zpsn9xkikyl.jpg)
I'll have to let the wood dictate what kind of bow it wants to be, but the plan is to keep it simple until I'm sure the wood will co-operate. My #2 will be a mollie from the HHB, which is a build I'm comfortable and confident with.
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I remember that wood. Amazing color!
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Gorgeous color on that wood kid!! I got one of the limbs to floor tiller on the first hickory stave I'm working. I'm having trouble with imgur uploading photos now that I said I could do it!! Ain't technology grand?! I think I will get the bow to a solid even floor tiller maybe even low brace and get started on another one. I cut this wood last year about this time and it has been in the garage so I may weigh the blanks and monitor them closely for weight loss now that I Wil be keeping them inside. Hopefully I'll have some pics up later. Everybody seems to be making great headway.
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While waiting to find out who I get, I thought maybe I should have a stave ready to go that would make a nice bendy handle bow. I started cleaning the back up on this piece of hhb.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/2E2FDF72-9F16-42BD-971A-147B46068826_zpsnsjbj6h1.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/2E2FDF72-9F16-42BD-971A-147B46068826_zpsnsjbj6h1.jpg.html)
I am seeing some awesome pieces of wood posted so far.
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It sounds tempting, but before committing, can someone clarify a little? Maybe I missed it in the post, but how much time is there to complete one, that is, when is the ship date? Also, is it usually just a bow plus a few arrows or do you include quivers, cases, etc.?
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Wow, all of these nice staves! I have 2 billets of ash that I will tackle in the near future, but for now...
Here's my humble offering to the mix:
(http://i.imgur.com/5zTL0hq.jpg)
This will be a bamboo backed osage bow. I made decent progress today getting the bamboo thinned (it was about 1/2 inch thick to begin with)... I still need to do a little more work (tapering the thickness mainly), but so far so good!
(http://i.imgur.com/IOoKe4z.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/E8vi04J.jpg)
Here's the splice for the osage. I'll need to clean the cuts a tish more to make them fit tightly, but soon enough it'll be one piece of bamboo and osage!
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Hey folks!
If you all willing to let a novice bow builder in I'd like to give it a go this year. I bit intimidating I must say, it's not like I can build bows like you guys but I'm no quitter :)
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I believe the ship date was/is the end of August. This is an open invite trade, as long as you give it your all, no one will be upset. I'd advise to have had at least a couple of successful bows to your credit. Those first couple bows can be plenty hard enough without added pressures of deadlines and knowing it's ending up in another bowyers hands.
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Ok I'm in.
26"-28" with "regular" bows. Open to shortys with shorter draw.
40-60#
Right handed
I'd be very happy with any style bow!
I'll be working on these. In case one fail I got a backup.
Twisty Lilac and an Ash sapling.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8238.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8238.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8239.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8239.jpg.html)
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Ok, I have been hesitating, but I would like to be in. I am getting pretty confident about making a good bow if I have a good stave to work with--which is my problem at the moment. I have a couple of staves, one or two of which look pretty good--but I also have standing commitments for for two of them.--I have to finish one for my son, since the bow I was making him for Christmas broke in the tillering. Half Eye Fred, both of you have offered to help the stave-poor. Can we work something out?
My stats:
50-55#
29" draw
Right Handed
I like to shoot from a rest
open for any style
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I dug some more staves out. I think I'm set for staves. I have three Osage blanks and and a few billets one set is red Osage. And three hhb and one ERC stave. I'm excited about this trade. Ready to get going again.
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If that is spalted as you say, get ready for heart ache. Spalting is a sign of fungal rot. Dont use it, its not safe. It makes good handles and tips though.
Alright I finally have some pics to put up. This first one is the staves I will be working/ choosing from top to bottom we have: HHB, Rock Elm, Spalted Hazel, and the beech art bow I mentioned before with the snake limbs.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/staves%204%20bow%20trade_zpswuocbbb5.jpg)
I'm kinda leaning toward the spalted hazel. The biggest reason being that the wood itself is almost a one of a kind, and gorgeous to boot. When I asked about the wood, no one had seen anything like it before. I was warned that spalted wood may be an issue, but it was confined to the center of the stave. I made a stiff handle and kept the spalting out of the working areas and ended up with a good looking nice shooting bow in the 55# range.
Here's that bow and the sister stave from the first pic.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/spalted%20hazel%20stave%20amp%20bow_zpskprvbxfh.jpg)
Here's better shots of the coloration on the stave and the close to finished bow.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/hazel%20heartwood2_zpsbxmp2t36.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/spalted%20hazel%20bow%20handle_zpsn9xkikyl.jpg)
I'll have to let the wood dictate what kind of bow it wants to be, but the plan is to keep it simple until I'm sure the wood will co-operate. My #2 will be a mollie from the HHB, which is a build I'm comfortable and confident with.
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Jeffp51,
I have HHB (ironwood), some hard maple, and I believe a stick or two of Ash (high crown) if you cover the shipping.....and I have the length you want....you can have the wood.
I am real glad to see you fellas join up.....you are not "allowed" folks you are most "welcome". Remember that we got a nice bunch here so feel free to seek advice, material or what ever......and have some fun with this.
rich
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Alright, let me do this right this time. Bow specs are RH - 45-55# @ 26-28" and any style bow would be awesome. I'm will only ship in the U.S. , but willing to chip in some $ to help anyone with shipping.
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Hey Loope,
The trade is for a bow.....nothing else...if ya saw that quiver in my post I'm making that for Fred to use in the monthly draw we are doing.....you might win it but sure do not need to make one, or arrows for that matter........man if ya want to make a bow and get a bow then sign up....just make sure you want to do it and make a commitment to get it done.....lots of good people already signed up so there is plenty of assistance available if you want it.
rich
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Hey fellas,
Was talking with Fred and thought some things could stand to be re-iterated. So bare with me here.
1. for the real new guys....if you follow the trade directions, through this thing you will be about guaranteed to make a bow you can be proud of.
2. By posting progress pics and narrative you will be just about making a "how-to" or build along and in so doing if problems look like they are gonna raise they ugly head we can all help each other through these steps.....with help and support I dont see how you can fail.
3. Just because some of the more experienced seem to be ahead of you, dont sweat the small stuff cause it will get easier for you too, hell by this time next year you will be expected to help out the new guys too 8)
4. Fred and his running of this great trade are designed so that you cant fail.....so be committed, stay committed, and if ya need help .....say so
As a way of making this a better learning experience you older hands will also help by regularly posting your progress. Ya never know whats going to be an inspiration, or problem solver or whatever to any bow builders with less experience than you.
With the people we have, this can be the best trade ever. Do not worry about dealines, how your bow compares etc etc you will be investing a piece of your life into this so as long as you are giving it your best shot. Every one of these bows will be a proud addition to anybodys collection
A long time ago a certain fine gentleman sent me a small bendy osage bow, might have been his first.....anyway that bow killed me a nice fat doe (matter of fact went clean through) and I posted pictures ....the bow looks like a toy propped up on the hangin deer. He wasn't sure about the bow, but I am....took it to the woods, shot hell out of it, and everytime I look at it it all good and so are the memories. Would not trade that bow or Freds time for anything.
This is going to be the best fellas....so lets get ready to rumble 8) 8) 8)
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I've started a BLACK LOCUS with some twist and bend in it. Nothing a little or a lot of heat want take care of. My daughter asked me if this was ginning to be her new bow and I told her about the trade and she said it had to have snake skins, cause every body loves snake skins. She also said she is going to make the string for this trade bow so she can be part of the trade. That comes from a 12yr old girl. I love it.
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Man Oh Man!
There's some cool lookin sticks flyin around in here!
Really great to see the way this is taking off!
Ok I'm in.
26"-28" with "regular" bows. Open to shortys with shorter draw.
40-60#
Right handed
I'd be very happy with any style bow!
I'll be working on these. In case one fail I got a backup.
Twisty Lilac and an Ash sapling.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8238.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8238.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8239.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8239.jpg.html)
Hey J.
Hows that lilac work with heat and bending?
Nobody took the bait on my pic earlier but it was a monster lilac an old fella let me cut from his front yard. I may have to go help him clean up his yard again this year ;D
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Gutshot, That young lady has some serious game right there.....maybe you ought to put her name in (I'd love to build that bow)....seriously maybe you could email me some stats?
rousseau.rd@att.net
rich
Mr. DuBois, you got that right sir.....if that young lady would like a bow maybe you would have a couple small buffalo horn tips around if you want to kick in some "bling"?
rich
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Thanks about the comments on my daughter she loves to hunt and shoot bows. But I can't put her name in the trade I don't think she can make a bow to send out lol. Oh ya she did shoot her first deer this year and I was more fired up about that kill than any I've ever took
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Can I still join?
45-55#
Right handed
26"-28"
Any style including a shorter draw would be great.
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You're in Ryan and thanks for joining. I'm sitting here at home working up a spreadsheet and saw your message. You forgot to give me your zip code.
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Gutshot,
I had a drawing for this month's most helpfull, and she won. So she gets her choice of what kind of bow she wants......she doesn't have to make a bow.....hell she made need to make a string for "her" new bow.
The offer stands and I'd be proud to make it
rich
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Half Eye, thanks and I'm sure when she finds out she will be in the garage crafting something up in return. That's just how she is. Thanks again
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Turtle talked me into it, I'm in
45# - 55#
RH
Don't care what stlye, will love it regardless.
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Hey Otter,
Good to see ya here.
Gutshot
Neat deal with your daughter being involved. She's gonna be one happy campoer with that H.E. bow.
I'm gonna have so many bows roughed out soon I won't be done til next years trade ::) ;D
Here's the lilac at 80" and awaiting some specs. Might be more than I can chew on this one but we'll see.
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That looks awesome , really nice and snaky... I have no doubt it will come out nicely... It will be one sweet stick lol
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Profile of top limb tapered
(http://i.imgur.com/zo01Mjf.jpg)
Knot near tip
(http://i.imgur.com/zvceWKA.jpg)
Knot near fade
(http://i.imgur.com/UPmomzF.jpg)
Knot near the tip should go away the one near the fade will hopefully go away during tillering...depends on what I need for draw weight I suppose.
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Dakota Kid. I didnt read closely enough to see where you stated you removed all the spalting damage. That is probably one of thw sweetest most aesthetically pleasing bows i have seen in a long time. I love it. Any chance of a full draw? If you have any more of that wood, perhaps a trade could be worked out?
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Hey guys I just finished a spreadsheet and have everyone's info organized. Only missing a couple of emails (Rich ;D) and 1 phone #.
Latest count is 23 not including myself as back up.
I really appreciate all of your involvement and especially the pics of which we're only missing a few.
Once these all get posted we'll move onto the next stage stave/ bow layout for the new guys that aren't there yet.
Some of you have already passed this stage and won't need to re-post. I don't figure it will take long to complete this stage and then we'll move onto removing wood and floor tillering for those who haven't done this before.
As we progress through each step making sure no one is left behind I figure we will be into long string tillering by the 2nd month with everyone still on board and a few of you possibly finished.
I don't want any of you new guys at this stage trying to jump ahead of the rest of us. The experienced bowyers will be guiding you the remainder of the way through this process.
Make sure you take pics and ask questions through every stage and we'll make sure you send a bow on to your recipient that you can be proud of. In fact I want you to like the bow you built so much that you cry when have to send it on. We call that tears of joy.
All the old timers here have a message box!!! If you have any questions don't hesitate to PM someone for help. And my PM box is there also. If any of you have any suggestions I will listen.
When this first started I wanted to do a match up for bowyers with similar experience and tattoo dave suggested that it should be a drawing just like the old original trades. Everyone seemed to agree with Dave's suggestion so guess what? He probably saved the trade. Thanks Dave.
And I can't begin to tell you how many suggestions half eye brought to my attention but without him this trade might be going nowhere.
So let's get started and have some fun!!! >>>-----> Fred
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Oh, and by the way. No bows will be shipped out until we're all finished with our project. If we keep this organized we should be finished inside of 4 months. ;)
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Even though I'm an insider, cool kid, pro, a-hole or whatever else "somebody" has labeled me. I'd be glad to offer advice if I'm asked. Always have and always will. You don't make the top 10 poster list by not helping people every chance you get, unless you just run your mouth all day... :) And I do that sometimes to.
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Hey PD, I've always appreciated your advice. You've helped me countless number of times so I'm always interested in listening. If you have any suggestions for me drop me a PM. I'll listen and respond.
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Fred Arnold, I pm you ... Did you get it?
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RH 50-60lbs
27-29" draw
Thanks for running it
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Geez, I'd better get busy. You "eager beavers" are going to leave me behind. Here are two hickory staves I'm considering. Probably go with the one on the left. The one on the right would work well if I cut it in half, flipped it end for end and spliced the handle together.....might do that too. I'll wait and see who I draw and what their specs are.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Hickory%20Staves_zpszpmzzy0g.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Hickory%20Staves_zpszpmzzy0g.jpg.html)
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Dang Drew, good lookin lumber right there.
rich
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Dang Drew, good lookin lumber right there.
rich
The one on the right has a "dip" about mid way that might be a pain.....that's why I was thinking of cutting that stave in half and splicing the handle.....solve that problem ;-) This is some shagbark hickory salvaged from a road widening project.....thank you DOT!
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Thanks Fred for keeping this going
Some great bows will come out of this no doubt
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I figure if might as well show everyone the face behind the coon. And my apprentice for the trade cabinetbowguy. For those that don't know me I'm the blonde beard.
Kyle
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Well I can't wait any longer with all this wood flying around, so this afternoon I grabbed one of my black birch staves, shaved it down some, marked it, chopped and rasped, and got a bow going. It's got a good amount of reflex in the stave, but two of the bows I did already started out with more.
Man you got to work hard around here not to fall behind!
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBBirch1.jpg)
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That's one heck of a plan b man...can't wait to see more.
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Well guys we're almost full up. Couple more days and I'll draw your victim and send you all an email with the vital information and stats.
I'm pretty excited about this years trade!!
I know I already said that I wasn't going to be involved in the trade but if you guys will have me I'd sure like to join in. Take a vote and let me know what you think.
Thank you all very very much.
Fred
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Are board bows allowed? I just got two staves from DuBois, But guess what? I already have two people that want me to make them a bow! Go figure! Lol
If someone here has a stave, I'd be willing to buy it. I think this would be a really cool to participate in..... I can always wait until next year's trade if need be.
Also... I saw that Half Eye said "We are just trading bows", but I want to be sure... No arrows, or anything? JUST the bow?(and string of course)
I will PM you in just a minute, Fred. :D
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Fred, my vote is a big YES.
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Wow this thing is taking off! I have been debating back and forth as I have lots going on, but...Fred and others have inspired me to jump in. Fred count me in if it is not too late. (just have to finish a few FG bows before I can start :o)
40-50#
27-29" draw
Any style.
Shoot RH
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Asking for a vote if Fred can participate, uhhhhhhhh, let me think.................. ::)
YESSSSSSS!!!!! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
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Thanks ajooter!
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lots of great looking sticks out there! Of course your in Fred and a huge thank you! Currently shredding sinew for my ERC-Hammertime
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Well this is filling up a little faster than I anticipated. I think we're about done!! I've got a few people who committed but haven't shown any activity as of yet so we may have room for just a few more.
I think I'll shut it down shortly and then let the games begin!!!
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I vote Fred in!!! Thanks for all your work already.
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Definitely a yes Fred! And David I have that stave if you need it know. I don't have the funds to ship till Wednesday after next but like I said in the pm it's yours. If you want to handle shipping we can just forgo the hides.
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Sweet Jesus Fred......now look what ya went and done >:D >:D >:D Man this is some kinda good here 8)
rich
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I expected you couldn't stay out of this Fred of course we all want you in!
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Okay guys. I'm shutting it down. I may have a few late comers that I'll allow in as backup yet this evening but then it's time for the fat lady to sing.
I'm excited to be part of this trade. What a great bunch of guys. I'm just sorry we didn't have any ladies join us.
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If you want to shave some wood Fred, I say go for it!
Oh, and as for a picture of what we look like, here's one from Christmas (about the best one that I could find without digging deep!).
(http://i.imgur.com/nTYDMT3.jpg)
As for progress pics on the bow, I will be working on jigs and forms this week. If you guys want pictures of those, I will oblige. Otherwise, it'll probably be next weekend when I get to the glue-up.
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Hey Otter,
Good to see ya here.
Gutshot
Neat deal with your daughter being involved. She's gonna be one happy campoer with that H.E. bow.
I'm gonna have so many bows roughed out soon I won't be done til next years trade ::) ;D
Here's the lilac at 80" and awaiting some specs. Might be more than I can chew on this one but we'll see.
That is a nice lilac! How many stave you got going? I'd be really interested in seeing anything you come up with especially if you go ahead with the lilac. Is that a big check in it?
I haven't tried bending it yet but I think I'll steam the clean side but I'm not sure if I should maybe go dry on the side with the scar and knot.
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How do you guys think I should straighten this one, dry or steam? Does the wood swell with steam? I'm afraid the scar could open up if the wood moves too much.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8236.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8236.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8230.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8230.jpg.html)
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I went digging through pictures of me and found the best one I could find.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-08/0D7FFFD6-CE38-4C84-BB02-402F4BB181B4_zpsndjm7qi7.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-08/0D7FFFD6-CE38-4C84-BB02-402F4BB181B4_zpsndjm7qi7.jpg.html)
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Swampman:
Ha! That's what I look like at work when I save kids from lead.
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I was painting some vintage metal cabinets for our kitchen with some nasty epoxy paint. I had to capture the moment with a selfie.
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Ok here's me.
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J, think I'd steam that, it might not make it either way but I believe steam is your best bet. I am probably the only guy on the site that uses steam only.....so you may wish to see if one of the other guys chimes in.
Damn swampman we could recognize that mug anywhere 8)
rich
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OOp!
Here we go.
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jandersson, I've got a few of those on my shop rack. I'm waiting for more experience but what the heck if you've got a backup go for it. We'll help you out. If it works that could make a fine character bow.
How wide is it at the knot below and if you eliminate the knot how much do you have left" Also how wide at the limb at the crevice?
I agree with half eye. With that type of crevice dry heat would probably crack it. You may want to steam it first and take the twist out. Then see what it will take for alignment.
I can't say for sure but it looks like you should take the twist out at the knot.
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Marco, I knew right off you was lying in that first picture cause thats way to good lookin to be you. Glad ya fessed up sir >:D
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sleek,
The dark coloration runs the length of the stave like heartwood. On the finished bow, I removed all but a few traces of it along the limb bellies. Where it remained it left some nice "flames" in the fades and runs the length of the handle. The only other piece with the same color out of the 8 stave I cut is the one I'm building for the trade. I know how it formed, so there may be some more lurking in the hazel grave where I cut from. The original tree had a "Y" right near the ground. The other branch had died and fallen leaving a big hollow knot hole. Over time it filled with organics which then turned to soil. There was actually a small maple sprout growing out of it last time I walked by. The fungus in that soil entered the stave at that "y and ran up the center. Only the first 1/2 foot of the stave had a rotten center. The rest of the way up was that wonderful chocolate colored stain. I'll be up near that patch of hazel every day this week. I'll keep my eyes peeled for a similar situation in another tree. If I find one, I'll be glad to set up a trade. Let's just hope I can find a straight one.
I'll try to get a full write up on that bow posted in it's own thread in the next couple days. I had intended to do so anyway seeing how it's probably one of the prettiest bows I've made thus far.
Thanks for your interest.
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Jandersson - that is one challenging looking stave! I would also suggest steam - probably going to take several sessions! :laugh:
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Half eye, Fred:
What you think of putting a clamp across the limb where the scar is just to keep it from moving to much?
The limb is about 2 1/4 across the knot and 1" over the scar. It kind of a Mollegabeth design and I put the knot on the fade to make it less of a problem i guess but I agree with you Fred about get the twist out where the knot is.
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Jandersson,
With a crack like that I's be tempted to clean it out and fill it with a powdered antler and hide glue paste. You could probably even do it before attempting to heat correct. The heat should just warm up the glue allowing for some movement. Sorry I have no tips on steam bending. I dry heat correct for the most part.
If you want to experiment Simson fumes his bows with ammonia and says they get quite bendy while the ammonia is still in the wood. It may change the color but it supposedly make the wood like a wet noodle.
Oh and I say go ahead and join Fred, but you better not end up with the sweetest looking bow. :laugh:
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Hey JA, how long has that lilac been dried? Just curious if that would make a dif on the heating.
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Fred -
I am not sure what I will build - kinda thinking I might want to wait for my name to decide - if that is ok. :-\ Have several options - hedge, mulberry, hackberry, ironwood, ERC, ash, hickory. Also maybe thinking about a trilam if that is primitive enough. Pics to come soon!
Mitch
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The TBB also mentions using temporary sinew wraps while over flexing highly reflexed staves until they are broken in. You'd have to use something other than sinew because of the heat but wrapping in spectra line might work to hold it together.
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Welcome on board Fred!!
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JA, I say stick the end of that sucker in a boiling pot for an hour and then clamp and bend the snot out o it. If it breaks just remember, I am often not right ::)
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Well, this wasn't supposed to be any more than a quick photo to check tiller at partial draw with this week's Meare Heath bow. But it's one of the few recent pics of me at all. The bow was tillered more, shot 25 arrows through it just short of full draw, and while final tillering it broke just at full draw and 52 lbs. So it's also the only pic of the bow intact and working, too.
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/MHTillering.jpg)
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jandersson, can you post a pic of the belly side from the knot to the tip? And DuBois might have the right idea with that boiling water. It may also make it easier to clean out any rot in that crevice but I still would like to see the belly profile.
Mitch, no problem. We should have names by tomorrow evening.
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I guess I'm in!
RH
40-60lb
25-27 (maybe up to about 29 if my dad decides to shoot it)
Once I find a stave, I'll post a few pictures! Can't wait to see all of the bows traded! :)
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Well guys we're almost full up. Couple more days and I'll draw your victim and send you all an email with the vital information and stats.
I'm pretty excited about this years trade!!
I know I already said that I wasn't going to be involved in the trade but if you guys will have me I'd sure like to join in. Take a vote and let me know what you think.
Thank you all very very much.
Fred
I vote yes most certainly!
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Here's me my wife and the kiddos last week when we got our first snow. It was gone by the end of the day. Today was a nice 60 degrees.
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Waiting on a few more replies. I've had 1 back out. Is 28-30 big enough or do you guys want more?
Great family pic TR.
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Fred - I guess its ok you want to be in and make a bow. :laugh: I would love to get a bow from "Munson Creek"! I vote your in.
Here is a pic of my ugly mug in my small shop "tinkering" around - which I do almost every evening.
I also ran out to the storage garage and snapped a few photos of my stash of some staves - all dry and ready to go as soon as I bring one in and warm it up!
Mitch
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Mitch I'm embarrassed :-[ I'm not posting a picture of my shop after that one popped up.
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Nice looking bow too PlanB - to bad she broke!
60º in Oklahoma! We just broke the freezing mark for the first time in quite a while - nice family picture!
DuBois - I kinda like the first pic - but I am a dog guy.
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I probably had just cleaned it before that pic. :laugh: I was helping a youngster make his first bow - a hackberry pyramid. We had to take a few pics.
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Whoa! Thats the cleanest most organised shop i've ever seen. Nice. Well i'm not gonna officially start til thursday or friday. Gotta completely finish my current bow first. ( cant start another til one is finished).
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If not too late, would love to get in.
29 to 31"
Right hand
50-60 pound
any style
I am going out to sort through some staves that I have had drying, looking through some red bud, hickory, or white oak. Will pick out a couple good ones and post some pics.
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Every body else seems to be throwing there mug shots off so here is Me and my girl with her first deer
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Jandersson - that is one challenging looking stave! I would also suggest steam - probably going to take several sessions! :laugh:
I figured the more challenging the more I'll learn. I hear ya, go slow.
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Can't believe the turn out fellas this should be a great time!! I got my lower limb tapered and a piece of zebrawood glued on the handle. I rounded both limbs tips down in preparation for cutting strings nocks. I ended up cutting a nock in the lower limb and I quit there. I'll try and get pics of the progress up soon.
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Gutshot - she looks mighty happy. My daughter and I rifle hunt together too. I look forward to it each year and they are always a few of the best days of the year - good times.
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i'm in ;D
LH
50-70# draw weight
28-30" draw length
any style i'm not real particular :)
i'll have a pic of my stave(s) up shortly my phone doesn't want to upload it :-\
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here we go
from left to right. a short character osage stave, honeysuckle >:D, and half a snaky hophornbeam sapling
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/98701318-1EFF-47DE-B226-D44B86DCE023.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/98701318-1EFF-47DE-B226-D44B86DCE023.jpg.html)
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Members list is up on the front page. Might? be a few additions.
Drawing Tomorrow
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That osage has a preformed arrow shelf. It just screams center shot.
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Here is my entry, and its backups just in case.
Left to right: red bud (sapwood & cambium showing), white oak, red bud (down to heartwood), dogwood, and hickory
I am going to try the middle stave first... red bud
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Ooops, hit post instead of attach...
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I'm not familiar with red bud. It's got a nice color, kinda like well seasoned BL. How does it perform?
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Loope I really like the looks of that stave.
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I picture it with a nice set of copperhead skins, just enough Sssss to make it work.
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Dakota Kid:I like the wrapping Idea, much better than using a clamp which I was thinking about doing. Can I use sawdust instead of powdered antler?
DuBois: I roughed out the bow right after I cut it about two years ago and been sitting in my cold basement ever since.
I'm leaning towards wrapping it and steam/boil it, can't decide...maybe it won't make a difference which I use.
Fred: Here's the belly of that area. The grain in the lever is a bit funny, I think I had to get a big bad check out of there :)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8242_1.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8242_1.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8240_1.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8240_1.jpg.html)
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Yes, I love the looks of that red bud. The color and shape just grabbed my attention.
I needed to cut the tree down, and knew that red bud is related to locust, so it should make a good bow, but was surprised at the color and that the sapwood is so thin. On a tree roughly 8 or 9 inch diameter, the sapwood is probably only 3/8 inch thick. It is beautiful wood I think.
I haven't used any red bud yet, other than cutting some small pieces from another log to use for overlay material. It seems to work nicely.
Next step is getting down to one growth ring.
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mwosborn:
I could drop my peanut butter sandwich upside down on your work table and have no issues with finishing that sandwich.
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Here are a couple of staves I am thinking about. One is a White oak floor tillered stave I got in the Christmas trade. It has already been through a few hands, so it might be a nice community project to get to a new bowyer. The other is an elm stave from a neighbor's tree. I haven't had much luck with this siberian elm so far, but this one is a different tree, and feels stronger than the others I have played with so far, and the stave is also cleaner.
the other picture is from last year's trade, and shows off my best bow so far, and my best side.
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jandersson,
The antler will be a stronger patch. I prefer the powdered antler in most cases where taking stress is more important than the fill matching the wood color. If you don't have access to powdered antler, sawdust would be a suitable substitute, I wonder about bone meal, but have never used it so I can't make a recommendation.
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Dakota Kid,
Epoxy? Or is saying that like swearing in church in this neck of the woods?
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Most epoxy won't be very flexible. Plus that stave's too pretty for epoxy. Sawdust or antler and hide glue or TB3 would be my choice.
It's not exactly swearing like mentioning FG, but it's close. :laugh:
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I don't like the grain runoff towards the tips especially with that much twist. I'm hoping some of the more experienced members here jump in to give their opinions. Maybe hammertime, turtle, or one of the others guys will give their opinion.
It might be a good idea to post all of the pics in a new topic under the bows section. There are a lot of guys over there with vast experience with character staves that might not be checking on what we're doing here.
That's what I'd do before I tackled it.
Pearl Drums said he would help. You might PM him and get his opinion.
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Hope I sneaked in under the wire. Here are my stats: anything under 45# at 26 to 28" draw although I don't mind short bow and short draw, I'm a lefty and have no preference as to type or style, whatever my partner wants to make is fine by me. This should be fun.
Not much of my stash is seasoned fully but (https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/01/image2.jpg)
left to right, holly, split yew stave (mostly sap wood but might make nice take-down), blackthorn and hazel - the hazel is really lovely so thats most likely candidate at the moment
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Mr. Anderson,
Looking at the picture of the belly side of your stave I believe that you can not successfully bend that limb laterally. I took the liberty of marking one of your pics to point out a grain sworel....it runs perpendicular to the knot on the bows back. Even on pristine wood you shouldn't try that bend because of the grain at that point.......
Having said that I went back to your original picture where you are looking down the long axis and it sure does look like if you put a string from tip to tip it would be damned near center of the grip, and if thats so then you could steam to remove some propeller twist in the lever....and if a small amount of string alignment is needed then go to side string knocks......
I cant see or touch your stave but to me I dont think you need a whole lot of movement. Just something to consider.
rich
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I agree Rich. If you leave the entire area stiff for levers and take out the twist you may have a good chance of making it work. IMO you should follow the grain as close as possible on the entire tip end. That's why I wanted to know how long it was.
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A little tweak at the handle can bring the tips right into alignment as well
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Most epoxy won't be very flexible. Plus that stave's too pretty for epoxy. Sawdust or antler and hide glue or TB3 would be my choice.
It's not exactly swearing like mentioning FG, but it's close. :laugh:
Plenty of flexible types of Epoxy are available. Modern glue is modern glue. Epoxy is older than TB3 that's for sure.
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Started the process of making dome raw hide. Never have to much materials. Might even back my trade bow then lay some snake skins down on it.
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My wife calls me a lazy communicator and I think I've been that, I gotta think about what I'm saying with all these new terms. That half eye is pretty sharp, the string alignment is 1/4" from spot on. I think I'm good on the lateral plane as long as I get some propeller twist out as you say. I was afraid steaming the twist out could crack open the crevice but I like Dakota kid idea of gluing and wrapping to prevent that from happening.
Fred: I started a thread about it a week or two ago but didn't have much luck on the specifics of that area. I might just pm Pearl. (EDIT)I was a little to eager roughing it out a year or two ago or I tried to remove a check I don't remember but I've learnt since then. Yeah keeping it stiff is the plan!
Dakota Kid: Ok, I'm going hide glue keeping it natural :) Just gotta make some.
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Mr. Andersson, first off sorry about miss-spelling your name before. Before you get carried away with the prop twist....consider this. If you have a lever that does not bend and you shape it to a circle cross-section.....there is no prop twist. Propeller twist is the most offensive with a broad flat limb, on a skinny lever I have never had a problem.......between the levers cross section, and the normal string knock you will get a straight, even draw.......Levers can have different sections....square, oval, circular, even octagonal.
rich
Gutshot.....sweet .....you would not have snitched some young lady's deer hide would ya? >:D >:D
rich
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Half eye
That's one of the few I have left that's mine. Lauren's is next. She has requested a Rug with the hair left on for her room. So we are gonna get it fleshed and pickled before we ran that joker out, all while trying to get 3 bows made. There's just not enough time in the days any more. Lol
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Chopping the belly down to the lines....
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowChopping.jpg)
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Deer rugs look great, but the hair is hollow and very brittle.... That's why even tho they are warm because of the hollow hair they didn't make good jackets because the hair always breaks off... Good luck
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Yes sir !!!!! I got the same time crunch as you EXCEPT that I have to factor in my "old man" nappy time as well.....do not get between an old man and his lazy-boy. ::)
Dont know how much the young lady gets on the site with you, would you like the progress pics posted up here on her award bow?
rich
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Otter, I have made a few rugs and haven't had a problem yet! But I could on this one. Hopefully not since it was her first deer.
Half Eye if you want to post on here that would be great so every body can see your fine bow work!
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That's great and it will come out just fine for her I'm sure... Congratulations to your daughter for first deer!
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Rasping to a bevel......
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBellyBevel.jpg)
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I'd like to be in! Here are my particulars:
Shortish selfbow prefered, I hunt in thick stuff and gnarly brush, but I'm really not picky and would love whatever I got.
RH
Draw weight 45#-55#
26-28" draw
I will ship anywhere in the US
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Hey Plan B, man you are a machine !!!! 8) 8) 8)
rich
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Rich, I'm enjoying this bow more than any others I've built. I really like how it's going, and don't want to stop. I like the proportions and the wood is really nice to work with.
I flattened the belly bevel off. Where the bow blank is now .....
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowBlankSide.jpg)
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowBlankBack.jpg)
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Man this build thread is a lot of reading. I have to check it every few hrs to keep up with it so I don't get to far behind. I'm liking all the pics of the staves I just have one ? There is a pic of a Honeysuckle stave. Our honeysuckle in Kentucky is a bush with no trunk big enough to make a bow. Just wondering if it's the same honeysuckle that Ive grown up seeing. Keep up the great work everybody!
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Now this is coming along very nicely, keep up the good work fellas
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Man I'm lagging behind. I've had a few honey does but I'm back to it today as soon as my wife gets home so I don't leave the kiddos along. I'll have some progress pics posted today for sure. I was hoping to get the sleeves glued up today on the mulberry and chase a few more rings on the other Osage and draw out the hhb.
Loope: let me know how that red bud works out. I have access to red bud and wasn't sure how it would work.
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Man B that came around fast....do you work out of a vice or right off your table?
Here are some progress pics of the handle lam....limb taper...tip rounding...and lower temp nock complete
(http://i.imgur.com/42j4XNr.jpg?2)(http://i.imgur.com/WUgEwV2.jpg?2)(http://i.imgur.com/t2B9YJo.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/249zeSc.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/UqRkX2h.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/DVyNx4Q.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/MgQPH35.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/rDa0dFP.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/mUXMWWR.jpg?1)
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I'm waiting for the drawing before I pick my work. Man sure wish that guy would hurry it up a little bit!! >:D My work station is much neater than my shop and they're both unorganized.
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Man everything is looking really great guys! Keep up the good work!
Patrick
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Hey Fred, that stave in the center is terrible. Send to me for proper disposal.
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Most of you guys have 2 or more staves in the mix. I'm going to the barn tonight and find a couple of more to chase a ring on. Unless it's ok to maybe use one I'm close to tillering out for a back up!
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Gutshot, whats the difference you made/making both of 'em. Dont make it harder than has to be 8)
rich
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Blaflair2,
the one in the middle is just waiting around for warmer weather. I do all of my stave work outdoors and I traded a bow to be made out of that osage for some wool coats that I gave my sons for Christmas. monkeyball has given me time to build it. I usually have 4 or 5 going at once.
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Gutshot,
I would say having a back-up ready to go wouldn't be a bad idea, but I wouldn't spend too terribly much time getting a back-up ready. Maybe just pick out a stave you'd like to work on and if you get to a point where you're waiting on something for your primary bow (like if you're bending the tips or getting tiller fatigue), that would be a good point to work on bow #2.
Just my $.02. :)
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Mr. Andersson, first off sorry about miss-spelling your name before. Before you get carried away with the prop twist....consider this. If you have a lever that does not bend and you shape it to a circle cross-section.....there is no prop twist. Propeller twist is the most offensive with a broad flat limb, on a skinny lever I have never had a problem.......between the levers cross section, and the normal string knock you will get a straight, even draw.......Levers can have different sections....square, oval, circular, even octagonal.
rich
Gutshot.....sweet .....you would not have snitched some young lady's deer hide would ya? >:D >:D
rich
It's alright, everybody is dropping my double s, even the department of homeland security :)
And about the twists that is a good point! I'm learning a lot of new things everyday now.
Thank you Sir!
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Haven't picked up the draw knife since hunting season. I've been out chasing tail. Whitetail. I got a few things going ATM. We'll see what make it. Wish I had more wood ready. But I'll be good.
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Most of you guys have 2 or more staves in the mix. I'm going to the barn tonight and find a couple of more to chase a ring on. Unless it's ok to maybe use one I'm close to tillering out for a back up!
Man, just give most of these guys a reason to go pulling out all those staves they been eyeballin for a year or 2 and this is what happens. I already told my wife it's this guy named Fred's fault I have all this wood and splinters everywhere >:D
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Just an FYI: I am gonna be on the road Thursday or Friday am and won't be around computer much for a few days. I will take a camera and a couple of works in progress to scrape on a little.
I can see it will take a few hours just to catch up on reading once I get back.
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Ajooter, that's looking great!!!
Uhhhh, I'm just working off the porch standing on the steps.....no table, no clamp.... :laugh: :laugh:
Fred, that's a beautifule workspace, and a lot of pretty gold on the floor... :P drool.....
Well while my wife is gone I moved the whole operation indoors for a short time....steaming in deflex ......
(btw....thx Pearl Drums for the steaming method postings, thx Gordon for stave layout working build alongs)
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowSteaming.jpg)
Clamped:
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowClamped.jpg)
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Oh baby...you will be able to stretch the draw on that one need be. How long is the stave right now?
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aj, 68" right now. Don't know who we're going to get until tomorrow, and so holding off on, length, weight .... bendy handle or not, too.
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wow, took a minute to read through the thread. I got to get my mitts on some wood! I have one Osage stave that is drying, and I have a couple sticks of Ipe and some boo. I'm going hunting tomorrow, going to collect some staves if I can find any, and then get them floor tillered and drying ASAP. I might also be able to make a couple bows out of that Osage, I will take some pictures this evening for some opinions from the group.
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Mine is just shy of 68"...top limb should give me no problems. Bottom limb will be tricky to tiller that kink into a nice arc. Will probably get to a short brace then give it a good heat treat.
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Hey just wondering when the draw will be :)
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Said it was tomorrow and we would get are names email to us with all specs
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I been working on the quiver, having finished cutting the long fringe, Got a real good start on a young lady's award bow, and got my victims trade bow started.....like you waiting on a name.
The young ladys bow is going to be 30#@24" with some wiggle room for growth....I want it to have good speed but also a smooth draw and no excessive early weight. I decided on an American Flatbow, crank the ears back....and possibly defexing the limbs at the fades....maybe if needed to ease the draw. The bow right now is just under 60" ttt, the stave is hard maple that was trying to go "birdseye" if it had lived.....pics attached
Got the victims two bows shped, and steamed to form the shapes and correct a slight limb "squirrel. pics attached....there is the possiblity of remaking the victims depending on the necessary specs
rich
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one more
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Both are lookin great rich...your victim is going to get twofer deal I see! Coulsnt wait to make another Penobscot now that ya got a handle on em ay?!
Once I get the first stave semi tamed I have another I will start on much narrower stave with a high crown...only 60". May try a bendy handle Lil hickory. I need to order another goat hide so I have some rawhide. Might have to get a little extra creative with the decor on this one ;)
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ya aj....they shoot so darned fast it's hard not want and share.......plus it's a little different hope the victim dont mind.....but hey I*'m off the chain anyway >:D
rich
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I'm sure they won't mind....you going to make an artificial sinew string again? Or try some different materials?
He'll I know I wouldnt!!# 8)
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Looking good half eye!! :) :)
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Those bows are looking pretty awesome Half Eye. I told her yesterday she was pumped up about the bow!
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Ok i got my lams picked out... core wood choice westren red cedar ,chery, popular ?
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Thank you guys.
AJ....going to use some primo Linen of the strings ( thanks to my good bud Don Burchett)
Thanks B
Gutshot: lets just hope I manage to get it right. I'll see if I can locate some skins for it....with the color plan I'll try to find some dark ones.....banded water snake or Moccasin to contrast with the color selection.
Thanks again fellas
rich
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I had to run to the city this afternoon to pick up some much needed supplies. Just returned 15 minutes ago. At the moment we have 32 entrants. I'm going to draw names after I sit down for a bite.
We have just a few guys that haven't posted pics yet that are holding us up.
I'll draw all of the names and then send out the list this evening.
If you don't receive your guys name tonight then it's probably because either you or your guy hasn't posted the pics I requested. Some have contacted me and told me they would be delayed and I have no problem with that. I can wait.
Gentlemen all, My thanks to you,
Fred
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After a long 12 hrs of work today. Now the fun begins. Decided to steam the locus limb to get the twist out.
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Man oh man - you guys are getting it done! Lots of good progress and we don't even have names yet! :o Can't wait to get started - planning on this coming weekend. Need to decide what to make and then start laying it out.
Fred - your work bench looks great! Don't know why you would be embarrassed! :laugh:
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Jeesh!!
Don't even have our names yet and I already feel like I'm a month behind. I have to put in one more 12hr day at work then I will have 4 days off to get shavings a flying. Im so pumped I can hardly wait.
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Well its between chery and westren red cedar for the hickory backed tri lam with osage belly
Jason
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Man rich I hope ya get my name. Your short little bendy handle bows are right up my alley! I'll try and get some picks up of what I got kicking around.
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Cabinet, fine lookin wood right there, sounds like your planning a screamer 8)
Blaflair2....cant say who I drew....till the Leprechauns speak....then I think the chips will really be flying.
rich
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I'd go with some edge grain cherry.
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Woohoo. I got my victim. Thanks Fred. Now I can narrow down my options and get started for real.
Mike
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Fred said he was going to ban me from the forum if I didn't post a picture...
I'm kidding.
Here's me, and my shave horse in the background.... Also a short stave that I'm trying to make a bow from...
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160126_164528_zpsgm1jls31.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160126_164528_zpsgm1jls31.jpg.html)
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Little bit younger than i thought.
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Little bit younger than i thought.
;D ;D
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Hey guys this is our youngest bowyer and we're all going to help him get it right. I've got a stave going out to David tomorrow and he'll post pics when it arrives. David's got the tools and the ambition and I'm glad to welcome him aboard. His dad tells me that he's enthused and a pretty good young man. 8)
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Hey guys this is our youngest bowyer and we're all going to help him get it right. I've got a stave going out to David tomorrow and he'll post pics when it arrives. David's got the tools and the ambition and I'm glad to welcome him aboard. His dad tells me that he's enthused and a pretty good young man. 8)
That is fantastic. What a golden opportunity for him.........and all of us.
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Glad to meet you. Sure wish I had this hobbie as a kid. Id be a different man now. We are all willing to help, so dont be afeared to holler.
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Hey David! Glad to have you on board :)
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Hey David,
Welcome sir, I know a little about you.....and my money is on you bud.....I hope I'm the lucky dog to get that bow !!!!!!
rich
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Hey David . You can do it. Show some of these old farts how to make a killer bow.
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Glad to meet you. Sure wish I had this hobbie as a kid. Id be a different man now. We are all willing to help, so dont be afeared to holler.
Same here sleek....but I'm glad I found this hobby when I did...made sobriety much more tolerable and possible.
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Just checked my pms and what do ya know....I got me a fella to make a bow for. :D
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Hey David . You can do it. Show some of these old farts how to make a killer bow.
I'm going to try! Hahaha
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Glad to meet you. Sure wish I had this hobbie as a kid. Id be a different man now. We are all willing to help, so dont be afeared to holler.
Same here sleek....but I'm glad I found this hobby when I did...made sobriety much more tolerable and possible.
I have not had any luck with cutting wood and drinking. Pat seen me ruin a real nice stave doing dumb stuff like that. And if you are always makin bows, then you never got time to drink. Good on you for your sucess. I know its not easy.
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Man , i cant wait. After my last failure cant wait to get back on the horse.
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Stix,
ya better get it right cause if ya dont me or Fred will keep sendin wood till ya do....it would not be pretty.
rich
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stix, you just keep posting pictures. We won't let you ruin it.
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David, you've got us all fighting over your next bow -- good to have a lot of customers! :laugh: :laugh:
I got my victim tonight, and now I know what to do with some wood! :)
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Here's a pic of me, and a pic of the stave I'm probably going to be working with. Yall think I can get two bendy handle bows from that?
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David, you've got us all fighting over your next bow -- good to have a lot of customers! :laugh: :laugh:
I got my victim tonight, and now I know what to do with some wood! :)
Hahahahaha.
I have my "victim".... ;)
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Just noticed I had a pm from Fred too. Guess I better get started on ******'s bow! >:D
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David, the force is strong in this one😉
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Wow I got my pm too. Way to go David glad to see a young man get involved. I hope you got my name.
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Alright, I figured out plan a now that I have my victim. I am going with my black locust. I cut it down to 62 inches. Now I need to even the width of the limbs up. I have a good ring chased already. After evening up the limbs I will be glueing on tip overlays.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/9C924882-88E3-44E5-8171-8CE715E4BC84_zpsde2fp1kh.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/9C924882-88E3-44E5-8171-8CE715E4BC84_zpsde2fp1kh.jpg.html)
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Sidmand,
I dont believe any of my woodland bendys are more than 1-1/8" wide, and especially using that yeller stuff you probably wont need to go more than 1" wide (finished dimension)
Holy Cow David, these guys are already a bad influence on you what with that "victim" secret answer and all >:D
rich
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Half eye, i hope my hackberry works out, if not i will pm u on some of the hhb. I've only worked osage so fingers crossed.
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(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/B3955E54-B4CE-4EA3-AC07-7042DABA59E9_zpsb9oxvaez.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/B3955E54-B4CE-4EA3-AC07-7042DABA59E9_zpsb9oxvaez.jpg.html)(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/CDFFA9FB-6D7C-4BD1-93C8-7ECFAD1FB9CB_zpsahauaddb.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/CDFFA9FB-6D7C-4BD1-93C8-7ECFAD1FB9CB_zpsahauaddb.jpg.html)
Picked out a stave of black locust me and a friend cut 3 years ago. Got a ring chased. Check out that hump over the knot.
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Oh th picture showing the knot is before I got the ring chased that's why you can see part of another ring.
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I figured I would post my mugshot as well. Met some of you guys at the classic at Pappy's place, so this picture seemed appropriate. This was three years ago and bow #1 for me, a proud moment and a sense of accomplishment.
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Well if everyone else is putting up their head shot, I might as well too. This was a couple years ago, but I seem to age like yew, slow.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/MikeFirstCatch_zpsdaa7a22d.jpg)
Just a little catfish I caught while perch fishing. I actually thought it was a snag. I was trying to break the line when he started shaking his head. I was in 60' of water and it took 45 minutes to get him up to the boat. He was released after the photo and hit my friends rig as soon as he got back to the bottom. He must have been worn out cause my buddy had him landed in less than 10 minutes. I know the southern guys are wondering why I wouldn't keep a catfish. Well, on lake Erie, you don't eat bottom feeders unless you want to glow in the dark.
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Still waiting on a name. Why does it feel like Christmas eve again?
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Nice looking chunk of BL Ryan - ought to make a bow! ;D
That is one big catfish D. Kid!
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Got my shop cleaned out had mulberry shavings all over. Couldn't even walk. Got my HHB designed out. But I will be using a band saw for the hhb. Save my shoulders. I'll probably use the mulberry for a takedown but I'll keep this hhb for a back up its 68"
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It's 11:25 pm here in Ky. Been up since 4am got to get up again at 4am for another 12 hr shift. Should be asleep but since I got my name 100 different ideas has been going through my head on what to do. This will be a sleepless night I'm sure
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I have to say, Fred is efficient. I have my name now and I am doing my research. . .
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Nothing to exciting. Sometimes I don't mind being in the kitchen.
Half eye saved me from straightening the twist out on one of the limbs. The other one still needed a little to save me some headache later.
(http://i.imgur.com/KANGxtt.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/bX5eJwE.jpg)
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If you didn't receive your guys name tonight then it's probably because either you or your guy hasn't posted the pics I requested. Some have contacted me and told me they would be delayed and I have no problem with that. I can wait.
I'm done for the evening and will pick up tomorrow where we've left off.
If anyone is in dire straights for wood or any other items please get in touch with half eye or myself.
I've been pretty swamped tonight and may have made some commitments that I failed to write down. For those of you that contacted me earlier you might want to remind me again in the morning.
Fred
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good morning 3 hrs of sleep and ready to put another 12 in. Gonna make a pile of shavings tonight when I get home. Can't wait.
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Damned Gutshot, that kind of schedule is why old guys like me are all grey, bent, and grumpy >:D Hope you dont have to make a habit of that many hours EVRY day.
rich
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That's the life of a factory maintenance man. We average around 6 12 hr days a week. It gets old. But what can I say I'm living where I grew up and raising a Family in this small town. I guess I will be old and bauld not gray one of these days too. Lol.
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Judging by that pic of you and your daughter....and her take on things....ya doin good brother.
rich
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Damn fine group of folks in this trade!!
Hey David E. Good to see you here buddy ;)
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/B3955E54-B4CE-4EA3-AC07-7042DABA59E9_zpsb9oxvaez.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/B3955E54-B4CE-4EA3-AC07-7042DABA59E9_zpsb9oxvaez.jpg.html)(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/CDFFA9FB-6D7C-4BD1-93C8-7ECFAD1FB9CB_zpsahauaddb.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/CDFFA9FB-6D7C-4BD1-93C8-7ECFAD1FB9CB_zpsahauaddb.jpg.html)
Picked out a stave of black locust me and a friend cut 3 years ago. Got a ring chased. Check out that hump over the knot.
I have yet to make a BL bow except for the little one for my 4 yo boy. That is a sweet straight piece you got there.
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Damn fine group of folks in this trade!!
Hey David E. Good to see you here buddy ;)
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/B3955E54-B4CE-4EA3-AC07-7042DABA59E9_zpsb9oxvaez.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/B3955E54-B4CE-4EA3-AC07-7042DABA59E9_zpsb9oxvaez.jpg.html)(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/CDFFA9FB-6D7C-4BD1-93C8-7ECFAD1FB9CB_zpsahauaddb.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/CDFFA9FB-6D7C-4BD1-93C8-7ECFAD1FB9CB_zpsahauaddb.jpg.html)
Picked out a stave of black locust me and a friend cut 3 years ago. Got a ring chased. Check out that hump over the knot.
I have yet to make a BL bow except for the little one for my 4 yo boy. That is a sweet straight piece you got there.
Yes it is straight does it have any pin knots I can't tell
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J Anderson, I gotta know. How's that lilac move for ya? Steam work good so far?
You have one mighty clean kitchen with nice cookware by the way. You sure you're allowed in there?
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(http://i.imgur.com/4YrwlNq.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/0VqIM69.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/HlMqgjB.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/up9Pp2c.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/P2BfRWT.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/FrJeUxQ.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/zZPYXIq.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/kLnoNMj.jpg?1)
Got the second temporary nock done on the top limb....hand tillered the top limb using my bench vice....switched gears to another stave after getting my man's info...started roughing down another piece of hickory...got the rough front profile done and the first side taper layed out.
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well my draw knife bas busted on me (literally in two pieces.) so I ordered a new one and it will be here this Friday. the old one I sent to a friend of mine who is a blacksmith here locally for the Kentucky derby horses. hopefully she is able to mend the two parts back together. that was my grandfathers draw knife from 1925. hope everyone is doing good on there trades.
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Wake up and barely got a cup of coffee and there's pages to read here!
Very pretty stave Sidmand!
Swampman, that's lookin like a nice bow already, Somebody is going to be a happy archer!
Ryan, makin a lot o shavings on that BL!
Nice lookin bow Loope. My first one ended up a kid's bow, but didn't start out that way. ::)
Dakota, I wish I'd caught that one! Always wanted to catch a big catfish. All we've got here is bull pout. Nice fish!
Timothy mulberry and HHB by hand at the same time -- I have a hard enough time chopping and scraping down just this one bow. When I get arm weary I take a pic and then sit down on the computer and post here. But reading all this stuff gets me back outside on the porch scraping again pretty quick. One thing to read about bows, another makin' them!
"But what can I say I'm living where I grew up and raising a Family in this small town," Gutshot, you have your priorities right! I would be very proud to own a bow that you fit into that kind of tough schedule if that's how the cards play out.
jandersson, that is really shaping up nice, and the pic of the bow soup looks real familiar!
Fred, I just want to thank you for all this hard work and what must have been a really long evening. We're doing the fun work, you're the man making that all possible, and working smoothly. So one more thanks to you, and I hope you get to do some scraping and shaping, instead of just spreadsheet data entry and emailing soon!
Quickly shaping up ajooter. You're probably going to have a bow to shoot in a day or two, the rate you're going. :)
Kid, real sorry to hear about the drawknife since it was a family heirloom, Even if it can't be mended, you could always turn it into another bow tool, like a custom scraper, with some thought. Here's hoping the blacksmith can weld it back good as old!
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J Anderson, I gotta know. How's that lilac move for ya? Steam work good so far?
You have one mighty clean kitchen with nice cookware by the way. You sure you're allowed in there?
DuBois:
Still in clamps. I'll let you know tonight when I get home from work. Are you working on yours?
And she was asleep :)
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Hey guys,
One of my staves has some violations on the back. It's the rock elm. Can I get away without a backing on a violated elm? It has interlocking grain but not as locked as HHB, which I've left un-backed after removing wood.
I'd throw some rawhide on it, but don't have any at the moment. I can use linen if the consensus is to back it. In fact I could airbrush the linen first. I may go that way just to try something new. I can do a mean snakeskin with my airbrush.
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Hey kid...I'm ordering a whole goat skin that I'm going to cut strips out of. Let me know what you need and I send it your way.
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Looks like you guys got up earlier than I did this morning huh?
I've been going over my list and am finishing it up this morning. Have to run to the post office to get a package off. If you don't receive a PM with your victim this morning make sure to PM me. I've already caught a couple I missed. I've only got another 6 to send out (I think).
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I'll let you know if I need it. Thanks my friend. The more I think about painting the linen with a snakeskin I may have to give it a try. I'll see if I can find a pic of one of the guns I painted.
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When we get our name? And when is the deadline.
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Ok please tell me how to post pictures on here I'm about ready to pull my hair out lol
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Ok please tell me how to post pictures on here I'm about ready to pull my hair out lol
I use photobucket. Just upload the pictures there, and use the link for forums to post here. Just copy and paste it.
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I'll try
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When we get our name? And when is the deadline.
From what I've ready, if you didn't receive a name, then either you or the person who you drew hasn't participated enough (namely, posting a piece of wood that will be the trade bow)... unless Fred is still catching the ones who slipped through the cracks. I'm sure he will get it done soon! The deadline is officially the middle of August for the ship date, but there has been mention of no bows being shipped out until every maker has completed a bow.
Well, seeing all the progress so far is quite something! I will definitely try to sneak in some time to at least get the osage and bamboo roughly shaped. Now that I have my trade's stats, I know where to go.
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Otter, I'm too old to know about all these "smart" gizmos but if you have paint on you computer I can tell you how to resize whatever ya want........by the way, when I first came on, had the same trouble and to this day I cant put pics on a PM got to that with email.
rich
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Ok please tell me how to post pictures on here I'm about ready to pull my hair out lol
If photobucket doesn't work for you, have you tried imgur? That's what I've been using and works well.
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well my draw knife bas busted on me (literally in two pieces.) so I ordered a new one and it will be here this Friday. the old one I sent to a friend of mine who is a blacksmith here locally for the Kentucky derby horses. hopefully she is able to mend the two parts back together. that was my grandfathers draw knife from 1925. hope everyone is doing good on there trades.
Man a hate to here that about your draw knife. Those passed down items from the family means everything. If that lady can't fix it shoot me a PM my uncle is a black smith here in KY he might be able to
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I haven't posted a picture so I don't get a name?
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Ok please tell me how to post pictures on here I'm about ready to pull my hair out lol
[/quote
I can tell you if your using a iPhone but the other ways I can't get it to work for me
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Blaflair2:
Like for Ty_in_nd imgur work well for me to, you don't have to sign up or in. but i guess i don't know why it don't work for you.
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well my draw knife bas busted on me (literally in two pieces.) so I ordered a new one and it will be here this Friday. the old one I sent to a friend of mine who is a blacksmith here locally for the Kentucky derby horses. hopefully she is able to mend the two parts back together. that was my grandfathers draw knife from 1925. hope everyone is doing good on there trades.
Man a hate to here that about your draw knife. Those passed down items from the family means everything. If that lady can't fix it shoot me a PM my uncle is a black smith here in KY he might be able to
Yea I was pretty bummed out. She said she can do it it's just going to take time she's kept very busy.
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160127_082722362_zpscvgljf5k.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160127_082722362_zpscvgljf5k.jpg.html)
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Ok I dug out three stave's on left is hhb and two nice Osage... Which one do you all think I should whittle on lol?
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160127_082836070_zpsq06yqrkz.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160127_082836070_zpsq06yqrkz.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160127_082901686_HDR_zpscpxf9zua.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160127_082901686_HDR_zpscpxf9zua.jpg.html).
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160127_082851814_zpsofekfqc4.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160127_082851814_zpsofekfqc4.jpg.html)
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I'm leading onto the middle Osage stave or the hhb
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Otter, they all look tasty. I'm sure anyone will work just fine. I'm jumpin on my hackberry today. Will have pics up later.
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Otter, looks like ya got them osage pretty much skinned? round here I got to get the bark off the ironwood , either green or dead standing otherwise it is a fight to the bitter end!!!! 8) 8) 8)
rich
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Sorry guys, I'm running a little late and need to get a pkg to the post office. Thought I was almost done and then found out I had 2 guys building bows for Otter :laugh:
I'll get this straightened out when I get back and get the last 3 or 4 taken care of.
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160127_082919019_zpsei5ftdx3.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160127_082919019_zpsei5ftdx3.jpg.html)
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im going with the middle stave ... ill keep you updated... and two bows for me lol... how lucky can I get
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Otter, looks like ya got them osage pretty much skinned? round here I got to get the bark off the ironwood , either green or dead standing otherwise it is a fight to the bitter end!!!! 8) 8) 8)
rich
half eye the one on left is hhb and one in center does still have bark on it but it peels off easy, jon the right is all ready debarked and I used tb3 to seal it and ends... by leaving the bark on i have had better luvk with it not cracking on the back.
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im going with the middle stave ... ill keep you updated... and two bows for me lol... how lucky can I get
Man ! Otter you the luckiest guy on here 2 bows sweet! Lol
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based on his size ....he probably needs two.....one for each hand. >:D
rich
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hhb was already skined... me and my brother gifted the other half to del the cat at the classic two years ago, del made a nice Cherokee style bow with it last year.
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im just a little guy... :o lol >:D >:D >:D
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To post pics here (where the pic is stored by PA on its website, do this:
1.) Hit "Reply" to open a reply, just like you normally would. Wrte whatever you want to be in front of the pic.
2.) Hit the little blue arrow button that says, "Attachments and other options." It's located to the left just below the main text area, where you've been typing your reply. It will open up a few more entry areas. You will be adding your photo (s) as an attachment. Here's how:
3.) Hit the bue button that says "Browse". A window will open up on your computer (or phone). Use that window to find the photo file on your computer that you want to attach to your message.
4.) Now select that photo file, and the window should close. Bingo, you've just attached a photo file!
Notes:
1.) Photos must be reduced in size to about 600 pixels wide, to fit the file size requirements and to fit well in the forum column width. You can reduce the photo size with simple photo editor like MTPaint (free for download) or Photoshop, or via any online photo reducer.
2.) You can also upload photos to a free photo hosting service, like Photobucket, and then just put a link to that photo in your message, rather than attaching a photo to your message. The advantage of that is that the forum doesn't have to store photos, which takes lots of storage room. ( It also seems that this forum deletes old photos to save space -- I notice older threads often have photos missing ("deleted by administrator" )).
To link a photo, copy the photo's URL address to your clipboard from the free photo hosting company and paste that address where you want the photo in your message.
Then highlight the address in your message (ie. select it) and click the photo button (first button in the second row of edit buttons, above -- located under the B Bold button.
That will put /img tags around your photo's address, letting the forum software know that the address is an image, not just an ordinary link.
Some photo hosting sites have a means of inserting those /img tags without you having to do it via the photo button. You should be able to see the tags surrounding your pasted photo address.
Hope this helps!
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I need to print that planB
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140820_194219_354_zps8okgaxcp.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140820_194219_354_zps8okgaxcp.jpg.html). Here's a mug shot of me
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Gosh Otter how much did that large mouth weight.
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Nice fish, Otter!
I was trying to find a picture with me and a nice walleye (20 inches, my personal best) I caught last summer to post, but I gave up and posted a pic of me with my other best catch. ;)
It's good to see the full explanation for how to post pics (especially the size limits). The reason I went with imgur is because the site generates a /img link that you can copy/paste. However, it looks like you figured it out!
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gutshot, ty_in_ND, Thanks this creekchub weight in a little over 7lbs... ive caught two that size now... largest walleye I caught was 26 inches didnt have a scale then so I dont know what it weighted.. also caught a 53 1/2 pound shovelhead
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I got a couple things in the works and a few blanks made out.
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Nice just don't be in that shop barefooted man might get a splinter. Lol I guess if a mans shop isn't covered up with stuff then a man would be doing nothing.
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Lol, don't let the fire marshal see that!
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Never heard of wood flooring? :laugh:
Nice bass!!!
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I need to know who hasn't been contacted with their recipients name and bow specs.
I lost my first database sheet on my word processor and had to start over about halfway through the signups.
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Well it makes good coushioning for my feet.
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Laminations cut and sanded now to taper the core and shape the handle
Jason
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The laminations
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I got a rough front profile roughed out on a decent chunk of eastern red cedar. Next I just need to reduce the sapwood some. The first stave was too pristine and felt like the only design fitting for it would be a maple backed EWB. So this now will have a couple of knot. I didn't get as much done as id hoped since it took me a while to lay down some yucca fibers on an osage molle for a different project. I wish I had remembered my rubber straps when I layed it down and made it looks better and tighter. Oh well, I'll just fill in the gaps once the first layer dries.
Kyle
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Sorry guys, I'm running a little late and need to get a pkg to the post office. Thought I was almost done and then found out I had 2 guys building bows for Otter. :laugh:
I'll get this straightened out when I get back and get the last 3 or 4 taken care of.
That's OK Fred, I forgive you... >:D
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I've still got a mess. trying to fit 2 senders to 3 recipients. Have a lot of backtracking to do, hope I didn't dump the wrong PM's :( Got in such a big hurry that I made myself more work) I'll bet none of other guys have done that Huh!!
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I've still got a mess. trying to fit 2 senders to 3 recipients. Have a lot of backtracking to do, hope I didn't dump the wrong PM's :( Got in such a big hurry that I made myself more work) I'll bet none of other guys have done that Huh!!
Your doing a fine job Fred! Keep up the good work
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Did you remember to give yourself a recipient? I could see myself doing that.
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Yup and I'm the only one who knows who's got'm I think? I got it all straightened out and am going to take a nap. ;D
The traffic slowed a little since you guys got your names and I figure you now had to get off your computers at work and catch up because you're behind. :laugh:
Hope none of got in any trouble with your bosses including you fellas with the neglected honey do lists.
I'm going to work on that sinew backed bow and my victims stave this weekend. Outside where I work best since the weather is suppose to improve. Well at least the sun is suppose to shine.
You guys are doing a fantastic job. I love your attitude....
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When I counted all the names on front page I only counted 31... Takening that there is 32 and missing a name ... But I feel your doing a great job... I know I couldn't do it.
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I've still got a mess. trying to fit 2 senders to 3 recipients. Have a lot of backtracking to do, hope I didn't dump the wrong PM's :( Got in such a big hurry that I made myself more work) I'll bet none of other guys have done that Huh!!
Your doing a fine job Fred! Keep up the good work
+1. Thank you for your time!
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Fred, i think you've been doin a great job. That nap is well deserved.anyone got any advise on a hackberry layout? My blank is 64" long and currently 1 5/8" at widest til mid limb. Thinkin from there taper to 1/2" tips. Lookin to get 55#. Oh, got my victim's info. So let the games begin \m/
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I have a hackberry laid out with a huge knarly knot in the fade. Maybe I'll try and tiller it out. We'll see. I wanna do a lam glue up but it's too cold ATM. So we'll see where we end up. Maybe he'll get two?
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It's nice to set back and let the young ones work on a bow for somebody else
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I'm sorry to inform the futer owner of the trade bow that my girl and I are making. She just said she will make a hot pink and lime green string for the bow. Now don't fret about the colors she calls it watermelon. I know all of us like watermelon now don't we.
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Gutshot, good to see the kids getting involved. My youngest daughter loves helping out. I hope it stays that way. Anyway, let her know, I'd be honered to have a watermelon string made by her.
Tattoo Dave
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well hell yes, side note to dad....dont mess with the tweeners and their pink, could get hurt at the next get together, ever been surrounded by a bunch of girls? >:D >:D >:D
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well hell yes, side note to dad....dont mess with the tweeners and their pink, could get hurt at the next get together, ever been surrounded by a bunch of girls? >:D >:D >:D
It's not pretty at all
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Yes the watermelon string would be her signature touch and I to would love would love it.
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Gutshot, good to see the kids getting involved. My youngest daughter loves helping out. I hope it stays that way. Anyway, let her know, I'd be honered to have a watermelon string made by her.
Tattoo Dave
Hay I got one and she made her older brother a pink and blue. So who knows who will get one. I'm afraid to take it off my bow. Can't stand to hurt their fillings
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I say give her some paints and let her have fun with it to match the string. I'd be proud to show off a watermelon bow.
Kyle
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Here is a photo of me without the personal protective gear. Thought I would let you see my face. I look a lot better when my wife is in the picture. She is the good looking one.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-08/5C128620-2E49-4811-AC38-77DF478FD0BC_zpspyecihfr.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-08/5C128620-2E49-4811-AC38-77DF478FD0BC_zpspyecihfr.jpg.html)
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Guys I've got to get some much needed sleep so I'm leaving the bow work for tomorrow night. I've got it shaped and starting to bend
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My photos look short and fat. I've got to learn to use photo bucket or imgur
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Well, I got a second bamboo slat ready to go, just in case. Also laid out plans for a planing jig that will be able to make both parallel and tapered boards (mainly so I can taper the bamboo).
I hope to have my osage glued by the weekend so I can rough shape it.
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I almost made a pink string for my brother's bow this Christmas to poke at him a little, but decided to go with more traditional color. If only I had realized I could call it watermelon... he would have gotten a pink string! In all seriousness, I would be honored to receive a watermelon string or even a pink string from your daughter if I happen to be the lucky guy!
Just came in from scraping on the red bud stave. Trying to get the back down to one ring. I've got about 2 feet clean. Found a couple clusters of pin knots I hadn't seen before. Once I get the stave clean, I will layout the bow and hopefully the knots won't be a problem. I am probably slower than most, probably takes me 4 or 5 hours to get a stave down to a single ring.
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Wow - I am out of town one evening and when I return I am 5 pages behind on the trade thread! Lots of activity here - I love it. Fred you are doing a great job.
Ok - I think I am going to start 2 bows. Thinking of a hickory backed trilam and hackberry selfbow. We will see how it goes.
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Cock a doodle doo. That's my rooster outside saying get up its 3:45 And tell your trade buddies good morning from KY. Waiting on the black brew to get done and gonna head to work. Let's see the to do list includes going to work BOO! Coming home tonight work on a bow and raw hide YAA! Hope to see lots of chatter on here today it makes the day go by quicker.
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I am in the scoundrel trade but I am up and at it already this morning. Well sitting here drinking coffee. Wife at work my day off. Bows to make.
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Accidentally got a day to work from home - lots of cancelled appointments- no-one said to work on what, so been roughing out and heat-straightening a hazel lever-arm bow >:D never made one before so this'uns for practice before the main event, unless it turns out really well, that is. ;D
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What a great thread to follow and be involved in....I'm jealous of you lucky dogs home from work today. Tomorrow the stave press is coming to work with me tho! >:D
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Well, hunting season is now over for me - no luck this year, at least not on deer. BUT, I did find a whole bunch of bows growing in the woods, I just need to go pluck em :)
I'm going to try to split my stave in two, but I wanted to check first: Would it be a safer bet to bandsaw that guy apart, or could I kerf it down the center with a fairly thin blade and then split it? I know with a bandsaw I can get it even, but I'm not sure what (if anything) that would do to the staves integrity. I'm worried that if I split it, the split would wander off and I'd lose my backup plan.
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What kind of wood is it? I have had bad luck splitting elm without Kerfing it first.
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Good morning Fred, at what point of the build do we need not to show no more pics of the bow we are building. I really don't want my person to see the finished bow on here unless you want them posted. Now I'm no where near even close to being finished. Heck not even got a tiller string put on it. I was just here at work thinking so I thought I would ask before I forget.
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Sidman,
If you have enough saw, cutting will not hurt your stave one lick....do it all the time with red and white elm and Ironwood. If you use the kerf and split you wont be gaining anything but a lot of work ;)
rich
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bubbles - it's Osage
half eye - that's what worries me a bit too. I'm not sure I have enough saw. All I have is a saw I need to get from my Dad, it's a table top band saw. It might be a bit to light in the poop to cut that stave. I will try to get it from him and take some pictures. If I have to do the kerf thing, your absolutely right, it will be a boat load of work.
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Sidman,
When I split my Ironwood I make my kerf with the chainsaw....about 1" deep maybe more, drive the wedges to get it split, then cut the intertangled grain with the chainsaw....dont hit a wedge with the saw >:D ya dont want to know how I know that, even more than once,too
rich
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I like splitting osage and have never cut a kerf except for elm. I've split out 4 full osage trunks and ended up with 26 staves.
Gutshot, I'd like to see pictures from everyone through each building stage the reason being that way I'll know who's not keeping up and who needs help. Besides if those pics are available for all of us to critique the chances are the newer bowyers have a better chance of getting all of our knowledge and advice. That should be a tremendous opportunity for them to send out a bow they can be proud of.
Since no one knows who's building for them the surprise will come when the package arrives on the doorstep.
I'm planning on showing my work through every stage and hope everyone else does also. I did a little heat straightening last night indoors on the bw and will finish with 1 more session outdoors today on the caul.
I think? that showing the process will help us all learn something but if anyone doesn't wish to I will allow them to email me a pic instead of posting it here. I just want assurance that no one is falling behind.
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Hey fellas,
need to catch up on what I've been up to (besides no good >:D) I wanted to prep some staves for members that I promised some to. Now have all those done. (check out the shop pic....cut just a couple,eh?)
Got my victim, and dont want to give anything way but had to rough a 3rd set of bows to accommodate his specs.
Got up to no good on a matter that cant be discussed at this time, and even dragged some otherwise nice guys into it too, my bad >:D
The quiver is nearly finished, pics in a couple days
Have the award bow waiting for some bling to arrive....if it's OK I'll wait to post it till it's done.
I think I'm mostly caught up so tomorrow I'm going to be chuckling while hackin and slashin on my victims bows. I will post regular pics of that.
Finally, I got a "face shot" to put up....sorry Fred it took so long....so here are the pics
rich
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the rest
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Cock a doodle doo. That's my rooster outside saying get up its 3:45 And tell your trade buddies good morning from KY. Waiting on the black brew to get done and gonna head to work. Let's see the to do list includes going to work BOO! Coming home tonight work on a bow and raw hide YAA! Hope to see lots of chatter on here today it makes the day go by quicker.
I wish the rooster next door only did that at daybreak. It cock a doodle doos all day and night. I may use the new bow when its done just to shut it up. Lol!! ;D
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Cock a doodle doo. That's my rooster outside saying get up its 3:45 And tell your trade buddies good morning from KY. Waiting on the black brew to get done and gonna head to work. Let's see the to do list includes going to work BOO! Coming home tonight work on a bow and raw hide YAA! Hope to see lots of chatter on here today it makes the day go by quicker.
I wish the rooster next door only did that at daybreak. It cock a doodle doos all day and night. I may use the new bow when its done just to shut it up. Lol!! ;D
I'm coming close to craming a beer up this ones but and throwing it on the smoker for supper this weekend. Just can't tell the kids till we're done eating it
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Half eye, don't let that Avalanche fall on you going in and out of the shop. Lol
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got my draw knife I ordered in the mail. I found a stave of hackberry to use instead of the osage orange. I don't think its even done curing yet so no point in giving someone a half ass bow. this hackberry was cut on valentines day of last year so it should be good to go. thinking of naming it cupids bow and painting it pink >:) lol we will see how many splinters I get from it before I decide to do so.
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Gutshot, i just made this string last night for a hackberry I am finishing up. Not pink and green, but neon green and orange...pretty close, but no watermelon.
(http://i1163.photobucket.com/albums/q556/longbow60/0128161153_zps6wzf5rdk.jpg)
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Clamped and now dry trilam hickory backed
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Hey kid ;)
Here's a thin ringed osage w/ some red cut 2 yrs ago that I'm going to use for my trade bow 61" and 1 1/2" thick at the narrowest part in the handle area. I like working with wider shallow limbs and might rawhide back this one because I'm leaving some sapwood intact.
And just finished my session on the black walnut so I should be able to tiller it out close and then start the sinew.
Mail Lady "Pam" just knocked on the shop door and gave me a big surprise. I purchased 3 Yew staves from Canada and I'm really anxious to open the package. Gota Go!!!
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Gutshot, i just made this string last night for a hackberry I am finishing up. Not pink and green, but neon green and orange...pretty close, but no watermelon.
(http://i1163.photobucket.com/albums/q556/longbow60/0128161153_zps6wzf5rdk.jpg)
That's cool I will get a pic of the watermelon string tonight on here it's lime green and hot pink. This might start a trend every body might make some sort of a pink string
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Alright boys, do i steam or dry heat this twist out? It runs into the handle. Oh , and here's my ugly mug.
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Don't know why my mugshot is so small, but that's prolly a good thing.
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Got a lil more done on the ERC molle. Got it pretty well floor tillered and and just glued on some walnut overlays. Next to sand, brace it, then sinew. I havnt made an ERC bow before and this stuff is easy to work except that the heart wood likes to tear out bad. It takes a surprising amount of wood to make these guys stiff. I can't wait to see what the sinew does to it.
Kyle
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Hey Mo I bet that shops smelling good. That stave is coming around nicely too.
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It does make it smell awesome. I feel like I'm going to have to play wth ERC more often.
Kyle
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Alright boys, do i steam or dry heat this twist out? It runs into the handle. Oh , and here's my ugly mug.
Perhaps I'm not following closely enough, ...but please tell us the specs (length/width/desired draw weight), degrees/amount of twist you want to remove, and wood type you are working with in order to get a better answer.
From your picture - it appears to be a white wood, most of which respond very well to steam or boiling. If you have the rig to do it, steam the entire limb that you need to move. Leave it in the steam a good deal past the time you might instinctively expect it to need to take. You want the heat to evenly penetrate into the full thickness of the wood that you need to move and going too long in the steam will not likely hurt anything. Have your clamps and bending caul etc. all setup and adjusted to near fit prior to taking the bow out of the steam. Depending upon the wood type it will have a varied propensity to recover it's original bend. Ash and Honey locust for example do not seem to know how to keep the new shape you induce with heat or steam. If you are making the correction primarily in the handle area, which is often a good idea, you might keep the heat gun handy to persuade the new shape to hold once you get it to move. I'm told you only need to leave it in the caul until the wood is cool, but I generally always leave it over night, ...just in case. then you'll want to let the wood re-stabilize for humidity before stressing it or you may immediately pull out the correction you induced.
Hope this helps...
OneBow
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Hey guys,
I just got back from the lumberyard and saw some wood that looks just like what you got right there but they call it Aromatic cedar or Tennessee Cedar. Is that the same thing as ERC?
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Onebow, the wood is hackberry. 64" long, 1 5/8" til mid limb taper to 1/2" at tips. Lookin for 55#
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Kyle - Does the area I circled here concern you for this bow? - OneBow
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Hey guys,
I just got back from the lumberyard and saw some wood that looks just like what you got right there but they call it Aromatic cedar or Tennessee Cedar. Is that the same thing as ERC?
I am 95% sure it is.
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Otter came over today and we pulled the band saw out of the stave shed and put Iit and our outside bow vise into my shop. Got my billets roughed out and Otter chased a ring on a osage stave. I stole the belly split off of his stave and chased a ring on it while he was laying out his profile. It will be my plan b. We took time to eat and write this so back to the shop we go.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160128_102407949_HDR_1.jpg)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160128_120032192_1.jpg)
I left a lot of width around this knot.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160128_120046277.jpg)
Otters stave is the one on the left.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160128_135210464.jpg)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160128_135509321.jpg)
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David. Oklahoma has some ERC growing east of olkmulgee. I go there and visit some friends there and it's on there ranch along with lots of Osage. They call it bodark there. You should be able to find some growing around OKC. They told me they hate the cedar
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Onebow, the wood is hackberry. 64" long, 1 5/8" til mid limb taper to 1/2" at tips. Lookin for 55#
Well, hackberry is not a wood I have done much with, but I do know that it responds to dry heat quite well. So, you could do either one you wish probably. I'd still prefer to use steam or boiling, but heat should do well also. If the wood is still green or not very seasoned, then I'd be even more inclined toward steam.
I did not mention before - but you likely already know - you have to bend beyond the point that you want to end up with especially on the white woods. So, if you want 20 degrees of twist taken out, you might untwist the wood to beyond the point you need it to go, to say 30 degrees, or 10 degrees over. If it doesn't immediately give back the right amount after working the limb some, you'll have to adjust it back a bit.
Hackberry also responds well to heat treating the belly. So after you get your twist out, you can likely set the change you made pretty effectively by heat treating the belly while it's in the caul.
OneBow
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Alright boys, do i steam or dry heat this twist out? It runs into the handle. Oh , and here's my ugly mug.
I would only worry about the twist as it relates the the string lining up with the handle, in other words brace the bow and see how the string intersect your arrow pass. If it doesn't need to move much I would use dry heat, if it has to move much more than 1" I would steam.
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I got some temp nocks on and a long string off another bow and shot 30 arrows. Might do a little more heating -- the stave has some character which I'm not sure I want to take out completely. Looks like I'll make weight. Shoots nice so far, and it's a very light bow in the hand -- a little over 15 oz. on the scale on 63" overall. I need to make a new string tonight and do some more looking and shooting.
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBow3.jpg)
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBow1.jpg)
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Damned fellas, all of you guys are smokin......I better get my butt in the saddle, hey the old guy aint used to being behind 8) 8)
rich
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Locus loves the heat
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Onebowonder, is that in the center of your working limb? If it is there might be a couple alternatives. I looked at your other pics and see where it's located. I wouldn't leave it as is and IMO you should be able to find a way to stabilize it.
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I picked out the Osage that was debarked, I split the stave middle ways and made two stave's, this was already from a belly split. Turtle went a head and took the belly split from this stave.
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160128_113807282_zpsnyrdqygc.jpg)[/U
(http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160128_113807282_zpsnyrdqygc.jpg.html)
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I then chased a growth ring and made the stave 67" long, my stave is on the left, sister stave to mine in middle and vine Mable billets are turtles. (http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/PART95145400854552595IMG952016012895135210464_zpsuic9oclm.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/PART95145400854552595IMG952016012895135210464_zpsuic9oclm.jpg.html)
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I made a guide to make a paramid limbs. (http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160128_151221644_zpszhnk1n6l.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160128_151221644_zpszhnk1n6l.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160128_151808577_zpses9e7kyb.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160128_151808577_zpses9e7kyb.jpg.html)
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Onebowonder, is that in the center of your working limb? If it is there might be a couple alternatives. I looked at your other pics and see where it's located. I wouldn't leave it as is and IMO you should be able to find a way to stabilize it.
That's actually Mo_Coon's bow there Fred. It looks like it is in the middle of his Molly's limb. Much of it may come off as the tillering goes on. I'm just concerned that the grain may sworl too much around those two knots to be made stable enough, ...but he has a better view of it than we do. ERC is notorious for issues with the grain causing excitement! ( I almost typed EXCRIMENT there which would also be true oddly enough! >:D :o ::) ) He does plan to sinew back it, which will help a lot of issues out as well.
OneBow
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I drew my center line and marked out my handle and fades then drew my limbs out. (http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160128_160324675_HDR_zpsw9b6f7o5.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160128_160324675_HDR_zpsw9b6f7o5.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160128_155830733_zpsmhvbda2t.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160128_155830733_zpsmhvbda2t.jpg.html)
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I then took it to the band saw and cut out my lines. (http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160128_164043342_HDR_zps7azd01sx.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160128_164043342_HDR_zps7azd01sx.jpg.html)
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I have to rasp out around my lines then cut out my thickness tomorrow... On the handle and fades at center of handle I made it 1 1/4".....over 2" to 1" then 2" over to 1 1/2" wide at fade then its 1 1/2" to 1/2" at the tips.
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Thanks Onebowonder, glad somebody is around here watching :laugh:
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Otter, I love the looks of that stave as is. I couldn't bring myself to take the snake out.
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Just about forgot. Here's the watermelon string
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That spot doesn't concern me at all. It's pretty small and at the beginning of the lever. Right after the fade. More than likely most of that will disappear and what doesn't will get filled with powdered deer antler. A few other knota worry me more. But that's what backups are for.
Kyle
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Otter, I love the looks of that stave as is. I couldn't bring myself to take the snake out.
Yeah I like it to, I traced my line folwing the grain and keep the snake as much as I could
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Dang otter, hope ya got my name....all of you fellas bows is eye candy
Gutshot, hope she likes makin strings....them are nice
rich
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Otter, I love the looks of that stave as is. I couldn't bring myself to take the snake out.
Yeah I like it to, I traced my line folwing the grain and keep the snake as much as I could
It otter work just fine!
;D
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Just as long as I don't Otter it up lol
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Otter, I love the looks of that stave as is. I couldn't bring myself to take the snake out.
Fred, if you look close at Otters picture with the paper you will see he is folding the paper over at each one of the horizontal lines. Then he held the center line of the paper on the center line of the stave and marked the width a t that point. When done you conect the dots f ollowing the grain. That gives you the width taper of the paper following the snaky centerline. The last picture he posted shows the profile already cut out following the snaky center line.
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(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/4D09D2B8-B4ED-4021-ADE6-8536767ABEE2_zpskd7phid0.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/4D09D2B8-B4ED-4021-ADE6-8536767ABEE2_zpskd7phid0.jpg.html)will rough this out on the bandsaw Saturday hopefully.
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man its hard keeping up with you guys! ::) ;D
That osage has a preformed arrow shelf. It just screams center shot.
sadly that wobble isn't anywhere near the handle, and its only 58" long
last night i got the honeysuckle and the osage roughed out and bending slightly on a floor tiller, more pics soon ;)
this is my side profile by the way :-X
any advice on this one would be help full.
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/AF7E58DF-267F-4D61-88F3-2D32838E211D_1.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/AF7E58DF-267F-4D61-88F3-2D32838E211D_1.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/47084FD6-4F82-4D2B-A6E6-F29F2F8F21B7.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/47084FD6-4F82-4D2B-A6E6-F29F2F8F21B7.jpg.html)
and the honeysuckle, much nicer looking.
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/F44C4BB0-CA56-4B01-91D7-686D3EE0C708.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/F44C4BB0-CA56-4B01-91D7-686D3EE0C708.jpg.html)
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gutshot thats a pretty cool looking string :) i think i'll have to try making one myself(is it a endless loop style string?)
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Otter and Turtle, you guys are cookin!
Half eye, where are you getting all that snow? Still haven't plowed once yet this year in Vermont! Not thaat I'm complaining........ but it's weird!
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Nice lookin caul and blank, gutshot!
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PlanB,
Northern Lower MI......about where the tip of you ring finger is.....we get system snow and lake effect both. If I'm lucky on normal winters snowblow once a day....here lately twice a day.
rich
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I'm going to work on a hhb stave tomorrow some for back up plan just in case I have a miss hap :o
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Hey guys I just went back to page 20 to look over what's been shown so far and see if we left any questions unanswered and there's a lot of nice staves and work being done here. Awesome
Dylan I think I'd clamp it to a caul or even a 2 x 4 and heat some of the dippety doos out of it. It will make it much easier to align and tiller.
And half eye, I've seen you whip out bows so fast that if you started when we did we'd never catch up with you
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Man your crushing B....I was wondering how much you were going to deflex it and then reflex your tips. I have started a second stave after getting my guy and I'm thinking of doing the same. The stave is 64"....I may go a little heavier on the deflex reflex. Have you made bows with more deflex then what you put in this one?
Coming along nicely otter....I've only worked one osage and it was quite a pleasure. I like you pyramid layout. It can be hard to layout a pyramid profile on a bow.
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Man your crushing B....I was wondering how much you were going to deflex it and then reflex your tips. I have started a second stave after getting my guy and I'm thinking of doing the same. The stave is 64"....I may go a little heavier on the deflex reflex. Have you made bows with more deflex then what you put in this one?
Coming along nicely otter....I've only worked one osage and it was quite a pleasure. I like you pyramid layout. It can be hard to layout a pyramid profile on a bow.
Where you at on the map ajooter ? I've only made six successful bows so far :o and five of them were Osage.. I'm in Ohio and there's plenty of it... I made one bow out of hhb given to me at the classic in Tennessee couple years ago ... At that said I pray this will be lucky number 7 and my best one lol.
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Ajooter, I had wanted more deflex, but I don't think I steamed it long enough -- went 45 minutes. Next time an hour. But then black birch is an unknown anyway as far as steaming goes -- I'm just learning what it can and can't do with it.
This is the first BB stave bow I've done,.Before, I did a board bow and a sapling bow with it. It runs clear if the tree is any size -- it must drop branches very early in the woods. It's a very dense high stiffness wood, so you have to tiller down thin if the limbs are whitewood width.
Birch is supposed to make a good bow for cold weather, and I've shot my other bb bows this winter without problems. It makes a light bow that seems to hold its shape well and I think it's a pretty fast wood. It rings noticeably when you tap it with a knuckle. My elm bow doesn't do that as much.
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I'm in albany ny...I got my stave from sidewinder when he was sending them out. I had a friend going to Missouri every year to hunt bUT I think that's over for now. I would like get my hands on some hhb...I know where there's a stash ;).
I walloped my hand with a hammer today so I'm going to take a day or two off. I'm gonna post some progress aND pics tonight with a couple ?s.
I did some work in Elyria oh a couple years ago....biggest deer I've ever seen with my own eyes that's for sure!
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Ajooter if you're in Albany, you're not very far from me. I'm in the SE corner of VT.
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You guys are flyin! :o Some nice looking bows coming along - hackberry, ERC, osage, hickory .... lots of different kinds of wood. I love it.
Figured I better get my butt in gear and at least pick out some stuff! :-[
Going to start on two and see where it goes...
First one is hackberry cut in 2011. Have it roughed out and just starting to work it down. 1 3/4" parallel limbs to just about mid-limb and then tapered to 1/2" at tips. Looking at 66" ntn. Plan on heating a little bit of reflex into it before tillering.
Second one is new for me. Going to try a trilam bow - hickory backed - hard maple belly and core. Want to make a form of some kind that I can use to put in a bit of deflex out of the handle and the some mild reflex to tips. Thinking 66" on this one also and similar limb profile as #1. Need to make a jig so that I can grind the lams down to correct thickness. Lots to do!!!
Do you think the grain looks ok on the hickory backing?
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(http://i.imgur.com/kvCqoGb.jpg) (http://imgur.com/kvCqoGb)
(http://i.imgur.com/OfWleOQ.jpg) (http://imgur.com/OfWleOQ)
(http://i.imgur.com/vTvTvE6.jpg) (http://imgur.com/vTvTvE6)
(http://i.imgur.com/HSDmnVi.jpg) (http://imgur.com/HSDmnVi)
this little stave was taken down due to a knot that would have literally destroyed the bow. so I think I'm going to sinew back this
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Ok, where's everybody from? I'm in Lambertville, Michigan. Sittin on top of Toledo, Ohio. Right on the border.
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Kid Bow, your workbench is shaped just like mine!
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Kid Bow, your workbench is shaped just like mine!
haha funny how that happens isn't it.
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South eastern Ohio. About twenty miles up the Muskingum river from the Ohio river.
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gutshot thats a pretty cool looking string :) i think i'll have to try making one myself(is it a endless loop style string?)
I don't even know what a endless loop string is. I just make strings and so does my little girl. It might be a endless loop. Lol
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MW...that hick grain is gorgeous
Stix, I'm in between Traverse City and Harbor Springs.(northwest lower)....we are the hill-billies not the millionaires >:D
Plan B, you should make a screamer, I made real decent bows from yellow birch and black is a bunch tougher.
Kid Bow, ya gonna need a real big rat-trap for the critter that left them chips....never mind he done left a real fine draw knife behind 8) 8) 8)
rich
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I'm from Pulaski co Kentucky South east portion. We are known for Lake Cumberland. You Ohio guys know where that is don't ya?
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Half eye, i'd rather hang with the hillbillies than the millionaires anyday, got an idea where your at. I hunt around Mio, not real far from ya. I've hunted around u to Turtle, in Rio Grande.
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Ok, where's everybody from? I'm in Lambertville, Michigan. Sittin on top of Toledo, Ohio. Right on the border.
I am living in Pleasant grove, Utah--just south of Salt Lake City. I grew up in southern Utah and have lived in Cincinnati Ohio, East Germany (mostly Berlin), Columbia Missouri, and San Angelo Texas.
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Got my vine maple billets ready to cut the splice. Glued a sacrificial ply board and a paper template to each one with school glue.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/20160128_204535.jpg)
Will cut them out on the bandsaw tomorrow.
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I'm in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma! ;)
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turtle, I like that. I haven't seen or tried plywood used before. Now I see how to keep my splices from turning on me.
I'm just west of Elba, NE. Population 215?
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I'm from southeastern Ohio and neighbor to Turtle where brothers... I tell everyone he's my big brother.. Lol
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It's great fun to see all these updates, it makes me wanna call in sick tomorrow so I can work on mine!
Great work folks!
I've got 4" of natural reflex in my piece. Is that to much to start with? I have a vague memory of reading somewhere you could get into trouble starting with that much reflex but I don't remember why.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8229.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8229.jpg.html)
J
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I am from Albion, NE. About a 100 miles northwest of Omaha.
Half eye - I though the hickory board looked good when I bought it too. We will see!
Turtle - I have never made a bow with billets before - I am learning from you!!!
Andersson - that baby has some serious reflex. From my experience that much reflex makes them a little trickery to get to brace. Once you get there and get a good tiller, it should really zip an arrow!
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It's great fun to see all these updates, it makes me wanna call in sick tomorrow so I can work on mine!
Great work folks!
I've got 4" of natural reflex in my piece. Is that to much to start with? I have a vague memory of reading somewhere you could get into trouble starting with that much reflex but I don't remember why.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8229.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8229.jpg.html)
J
How long and wide is that osage? Whats it rings look like? I been wanting a piece very close to that for a bit. Might trade ya for another bit that you may like better?
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I live in Wabasha, MN. If any of you have seen the Grumpy Old Men movie, that is where the movie took place. It is in SE MN along the Mississippi.
I took the profile of the BL down to my lines and glued on Black Walnut top overlays tonight. I found and area of concern on the back and decided to back it with rawhide. Anyone have experience putting rawhide over a small raised knot?
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/FEA5DCA5-7AFB-4BAB-A9FD-75210245F40F_zpsdaockavs.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/FEA5DCA5-7AFB-4BAB-A9FD-75210245F40F_zpsdaockavs.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/DE6CB901-48FB-4BCC-9C40-298DDA9A49AE_zpshmovbdto.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/DE6CB901-48FB-4BCC-9C40-298DDA9A49AE_zpshmovbdto.jpg.html)
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Works fine buddy....make sure you soak it long enough so it's nice and pliable. Clay Hayes does a nice demo on YouTube.
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Guys I just got off work and I'm officially on vacation for 7 days. I'm from Wilson Oklahoma about 100 miles south of okc Oklahoma.
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Columbia Heights/Minneapolis MN here!
Swampman: Good to see a fellow Minnesotan! :)
Sleek: Lilac baby, lilac. ;) Still want it?
mwosborn: Nothing worse then tricky to brace? Well then, good to go!
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I'm gonna be MIA for the next couple days. We finally have fishable ice on the bay(Erie PA) with rain coming Sunday. I have about 36 hours of perch fishing in my future before the ice isn't safe. I throw up some pics of my catch on Sunday. Snuck out for a 3 hour scouting trip earlier and caught 12 keepers so the bite is good.
I have two of my staves roughed out and will posts pics of those as well. But first... I have to fill the freezer while I can.
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Swampman, If you have some thin superglue, I'd put a drop on it, if it soaks completely in add another drop and so forth continuing until it will absorb no more. Don't add too fast or any more than you need to or it will just run where you don't want or need it.
I actually let my first drop dry and sand lightly over it. If it's not filled then the sawdust will settle into the crevice, leave it there and add another small drop, repeat the process as necessary. In the end just lightly sand it in to feather out smoothly. You should be good to go.
I've actually done the same thing with wood glue and sawdust mixed together to fill any crevices but like to at least soak the pin drops with a drop of superglue.
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The second stave I was working on had a large knot on the side of the limb that I end up losing in the final layout of the bow. I'm questioning the grain swirls that were left behind and wondering if they will hold up. Also the side profile is very different due to the knot removal as seen in the pictures.
Also I would like to deflex the handle and add some reflex to the tips. There is a knot about 7" down from one of the tips directly centered in the limb. I'm wondering how it will affect the limb being reflexed? If it will pose a problem.
Knot
(http://i.imgur.com/FrJeUxQ.jpg?1)
Former knot location grain swirl
(http://i.imgur.com/nV7vhfu.jpg?1)
Side taper 1
(http://i.imgur.com/X70JT5R.jpg?1)
Side taper 2
(http://i.imgur.com/345WEJN.jpg?1)
Knot near limb tip
(http://i.imgur.com/Xop429o.jpg?1)
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I am from Albion, NE. About a 100 miles northwest of Omaha.
Half eye - I though the hickory board looked good when I bought it too. We will see!
Turtle - I have never made a bow with billets before - I am learning from you!!!
Andersson - that baby has some serious reflex. From my experience that much reflex makes them a little trickery to get to brace. Once you get there and get a good tiller, it should really zip an arrow!
I spliced half of two different failed bows together once, but this is my first time working with actual billets. Im just hoping I don't screw it up. ???
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Swampman, If you have some thin superglue, I'd put a drop on it, if it soaks completely in add another drop and so forth continuing until it will absorb no more. Don't add too fast or any more than you need to or it will just run where you don't want or need it.
I actually let my first drop dry and sand lightly over it. If it's not filled then the sawdust will settle into the crevice, leave it there and add another small drop, repeat the process as necessary. In the end just lightly sand it in to feather out smoothly. You should be good to go.
I've actually done the same thing with wood glue and sawdust mixed together to fill any crevices but like to at least soak the pin drops with a drop of superglue.
Thanks Fred. That makes good sense. I will try that. The area of concern is actually on the back at the handle. The grain dipped in so I was using my gooseneck scraper to follow the ring. I dipped in a little to far. It is in a non bending area so I should be good but I am going to add rawhide just to be safe.
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I live in Wabasha, MN. If any of you have seen the Grumpy Old Men movie, that is where the movie took place. It is in SE MN along the Mississippi.
I took the profile of the BL down to my lines and glued on Black Walnut top overlays tonight. I found and area of concern on the back and decided to back it with rawhide. Anyone have experience putting rawhide over a small raised knot?
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/FEA5DCA5-7AFB-4BAB-A9FD-75210245F40F_zpsdaockavs.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/FEA5DCA5-7AFB-4BAB-A9FD-75210245F40F_zpsdaockavs.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/DE6CB901-48FB-4BCC-9C40-298DDA9A49AE_zpshmovbdto.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/DE6CB901-48FB-4BCC-9C40-298DDA9A49AE_zpshmovbdto.jpg.html)
Those pin knots are agrivating. im also working with BL. Since your backing it could you just shave the pin knots off? What about it Half eye and Fred?
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Good morning bow traders. The coffee is almost done brewing. Time to get after it.
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Hey guys can any of you teach me how to use the "quotes" without adding the photos back in? I'm computer illiterate and adding the same pics just seems to take up needed space.
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Just delete the picture links in the quoted text and they won't show up fred.
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Fred, I'm not for sure but believe if you right click and hold (pass over what ever you want to highlight) you can simply highlight what part you want to insert.......thats coming from a fella in the same spot as you.
Gutshot, can you say how that knot runs, straight through, sloped etc.....anyways rawhide will probably keep it good.....if the knot is solid thats good too....the knot will not have compression issues so it may not collapse fromcompression
AJ, if that is ironwood (hhb) leave the whoopy-to-do will not effect anything....the knott in the centerlineof the bow wont matter either that pic where you went around it at the edge....I have sawn straight through knotts like that and just dressed like they were not there and had no permormance issues.....this is on/in Hop Hornbeam mind you. I know your a hatchet guy. Could you get a couple different angle's on that knot and please correct me on the wood.
I'm diggin out of an hr. or so and gettin after it.
rich
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It's actually hickory rich. I'll try and get a different pic of it at another angle.
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Hey guys can any of you teach me how to use the "quotes" without adding the photos back in? I'm computer illiterate and adding the same pics just seems to take up needed space.
Fred, ind the pics in your quoted message. They will have [img] tags around them. highlight them and then delete. Done.
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Hey guys a couple of updates:
#1 My local phone company has been having problems with their email system. It was down last weekend and they still haven't got it fixed. I've been informed by them:
"Recently we had a planned maintenance to upgrade our mail server system
to a new server, things unfortunately didn't go as planned and we have
to reschedule the maintenance. As the amount of email we're hosting has
increased we are forced to extend the amount of downtime to ensure that
there are no omissions or errors in copying user's email to the new
system.
We will be performing this maintenance starting Friday, February 5th at
6pm and will be done before Monday February 8th at 7am. The purpose of
this upgrade is to address the recent "slowness" of the email system, in
particular the webmail portals. We are completely aware that there is
an issue and this upcoming maintenance will remedy the situation.
We thank you for your continued patience during these maintenance
windows as we strive to provide the best possible services."
Thank you!
#2 We've a few individuals who are not participating as they should. I've sent out a few PM's asking those individuals who are making bows for these guys to slow down a bit. We may have to do some shuffling on some names. No biggie. I'm not going to have a few slackers ruin this years trade for everybody else. I'm going to eliminate it early so we have less chance of surprises at the end.
You guys are doing a tremendous job. Keep it up and thanks again for participating.
Fred
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#2 We've a few individuals who are not participating as they should. I've sent out a few PM's asking those individuals who are making bows for these guys to slow down a bit. We may have to do some shuffling on some names. No biggie. I'm not going to have a few slackers ruin this years trade for everybody else. I'm going to eliminate it early so we have less chance of surprises at the end.
You guys are doing a tremendous job. Keep it up and thanks again for participating.
Fred
That's great management Fred......thank you for all your work to make this a huge success.
Drew
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I've got 2 sick girls at home today with what looks like a stomach bug. With 6 kids plus me and the missus, if it is a stomach bug, I'm likely to be praying for the sweet release of death in the next day or so. But, God willing, I'm going to split out that Osage stave this weekend, and hopefully come out with two good solid pieces for some half eye inspired semi-short bows, and maybe even a good belly split that I can back with boo. Will post pics regarding that work when I can, yall cross your fingers that our whole family ain't hugging the porcelain all weekend.
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Cut out the bad before it infects the whole bunch Fred. Good call muchacho'.
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Sidmand, you're doing fine. You take care of those girls, they come first in my book. We're glad to have you. Get back to us when you can.
Fred
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Little update here: I got my splice for my osage in a good spot, but I'm a little doubtful about my glue of choice. I was initially going to use TBIII, but as I want to make this as bombproof as possible. I'm going to order some Smooth On, since it seems to be a pretty highly recommended and used epoxy for bowmaking.
I will still work on getting the bow rough shaped and the bamboo tapered over the next few days!
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Little update here: I got my splice for my osage in a good spot, but I'm a little doubtful about my glue of choice. I was initially going to use TBIII, but as I want to make this as bombproof as possible. I'm going to order some Smooth On, since it seems to be a pretty highly recommended and used epoxy for bowmaking.
I use smooth on. A little goes a long way. And holds awesome!
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OK fellas,
Just "in case" we are adding one new person to cover any difficulties. Wont be any changes in who got who.......look for the new postings picture, pics of staves work progress etc etc This is without doubt the best damned trade to date.....so thanks to all of you. Whole lot of "firsts" going on here and personally I wish to thank all of you people for the great attitudes and hard work.
rich
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That sounds good, Rich :) :)
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What do y'all think about mulberry billets? These have been drying with the bark on for 9 month. You think that's long enough I don't have a moisture meter.
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What do y'all think about mulberry billets? These have been drying with the bark on for 9 month. You think that's long enough I don't have a moisture meter.
I'd go ahead and work them down to floor tillering then keep them in your house or heat box for about three weeks and go and splice and tiller
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anyone ever use the Harbor Freight moisture meters? I'm going to try and pick one up this weekend to see where my stave is at - it's only around 15 bucks and I got a coupon somewhere for 20% off. Anyone have one? Are they worth it at all?
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anyone ever use the Harbor Freight moisture meters? I'm going to try and pick one up this weekend to see where my stave is at - it's only around 15 bucks and I got a coupon somewhere for 20% off. Anyone have one? Are they worth it at all?
I don't have any experience with the HB moisture but do have a pin type meter I purchased years ago online. Only used it a couple of times. It shows surface moisture but doesn't tell you what's going on deeper in the wood. If I'm not
positive that the stave is dry I will take it to rough floor tiller and then keep it in the house for 2 or 3 weeks to let it stabilize. You can also weigh it every few days untill it stops losing weight.
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Yes Score bonus for me and the guy on the other end of this trade. There will be arrows made now for the bow I'm making. Found these in the bed of my truck today.
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turtle, I like that. I haven't seen or tried plywood used before. Now I see how to keep my splices from turning on me.
Yeah.......... I need all the help I can when I try to make fine cuts. :o
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#2 We've a few individuals who are not participating as they should. I've sent out a few PM's asking those individuals who are making bows for these guys to slow down a bit. We may have to do some shuffling on some names. No biggie. I'm not going to have a few slackers ruin this years trade for everybody else. I'm going to eliminate it early so we have less chance of surprises at the end.
You guys are doing a tremendous job. Keep it up and thanks again for participating.
Fred
That's great management Fred......thank you for all your work to make this a huge success.
Drew
Way to go Fred!
Patrick
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I don't have any experience with the HB moisture but do have a pin type meter I purchased years ago online. Only used it a couple of times. It shows surface moisture but doesn't tell you what's going on deeper in the wood. If I'm not
positive that the stave is dry I will take it to rough floor tiller and then keep it in the house for 2 or 3 weeks to let it stabilize. You can also weigh it every few days untill it stops losing weight.
Thanks for the info turtle! That's what I was going to do first, but was thinking of getting the meter as a second/backup indicator. If I can get it cheap I might still try it out, but when I split that wood this weekend I will just try to get them floor tillered and put them in my bedroom under the bed. They aught to dry out the rest of the way in there fairly quickly and safely.
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I don't know if it would be better to ask this question here (since it is for the bow I'm building) or if I should make a new thread for it, but I'll try here 1st.
I've been reading a bit of TTBB vol 4, gleaning information from it for the bow I'm going to build, when I got to Badger's chapter about the Mass Principle. What he wrote makes sense to me and I'd like to build this bow using this principle as a guideline. I have two questions that I didn't see addressed (maybe I missed it), but I'm sure someone around here might have the answers:
1) Does backing the bow change the end mass (if you do not perry reflex it; I did see you should reduce weight if perry reflexing)? Example: would a rawhide backed osage bow and an osage selfbow have the same weight if they were both built the same shape, length, draw weight, and draw length?
2) The formula says to add to the weight of the bow if there is "induced" reflex (but makes the distinction that if you perry reflex you should lower the weight). Would flipping the tips before glue-up of a backed bow be considered an example of induced reflex?
Thanks!
(edit: 1st question to distinguish bewteen a backed bow that's left flat vs a backed bow that's perry reflexed)
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I haven't been doing much work. Still pretty cold in the shop with no heat. I brought in my black locust recurve to get it to equalize and do some heat bending. Still not sure what direction I'm going for sure.
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Ok looks like some poor jerk is going to get my first attempt at a bow. Literally just one week ago I got my hands on the bowmaker's bible vol 1 and 2, a draw knife, and an offer of some well cured black locust and ironwood from a guy who started making bows but dropped it due to family stuff and other hobbies intruding. So I'm trying my hand at it, and everyone here can behold the comedy show this will likely end up being.
As for me, I hate to ask for anything when the person I'm paired with will likely get a junky stick, but I'm a right hander shooting 43-55# at 28".
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Keep a positive attitude, this is supposed to be fun, failure is an option, you have until August if the first doesn't work out, and show your work and ask questions. You'll produce something to be proud of. Remember Plan B.
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Welcome to you Ranasp!!!
Ok looks like some poor jerk is going to get my first attempt at a bow. Literally just one week ago I got my hands on the bowmaker's bible vol 1 and 2, a draw knife, and an offer of some well cured black locust and ironwood from a guy who started making bows but dropped it due to family stuff and other hobbies intruding. So I'm trying my hand at it, and everyone here can behold the comedy show this will likely end up being.
As for me, I hate to ask for anything when the person I'm paired with will likely get a junky stick, but I'm a right hander shooting 43-55# at 28".
8) I know at least 2 old retired guys that are going to help make sure you get it right. Isn't that right half eye?
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Absolutely.....failure is not an option. With this particular group of people aint no way ya do anything but good.
And, welcome to the trade
rich
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Went ahead and did some dry heatin, so gonna see has that turns out. Figure if that dont work just gonna steam the whole thing. Also got another hackberry blank goin.
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Lookin good stix
The other day when I was steaming I was going to tell y'all that I had a steaming "thing" in the how to section....but decided to just take some pics and post them for anyone who may wish to use the stuff.
First off I never steam wood more than 5 minuets ((up to 3/4 thick) and never more than 10 min at one time. A couple things with that, when the bow comes out of the steam it is less than 5 seconds to complete the bend ....no not a misprint. I either make my bends by hand for myself and "multi bender for other folks bow. As soon as the wood comes out from under the tin foil....right to the jig and bent, right in front of the stove and your done.
The pot is a "pasta" cooker and I use it because it is oval in shape.
anyway here are the pics and if there's any ? please ask
rich
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Neat set up there Rich. Can you tell us what those other slots cut in the board are for?
Ty, I hate to admit it but I don't know anything about mass principle although I've seen some terrible results on a couple of my earlier bows from not understanding and paying attention to it. Possibly Badger or others with more knowledge will point you in the right direction.
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Half eye , is that recipe for white woods? I got whole rig for steamin, two 4" x 4' pipe with a 4" T in the middle. Steam the whole thing than rite to the caul. I've done osage and usually "cook" it for an hour or more. Any advise is greatly appreciated.
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1) Does backing the bow change the end mass (if you do not perry reflex it; I did see you should reduce weight if perry reflexing)? Example: would a rawhide backed osage bow and an osage selfbow have the same weight if they were both built the same shape, length, draw weight, and draw length?
I haven't tried to build using the mass principle but would assume that the rawhide backed bow would weigh more, because it only protects the bow and doesn't add to the performance like a wood or sinew backing does. You would have to add the weight of the rawhide to your total mass.
2) The formula says to add to the weight of the bow if there is "induced" reflex (but makes the distinction that if you perry reflex you should lower the weight). Would flipping the tips before glue-up of a backed bow be considered an example of induced reflex?
Im not familiar enough with the mass principle to give you a good answer. I would think that flipping the tips would be considered induced reflex .
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Stix.....I've bent osage both ways lateral (snake) and recurves and whoop-de-doos. Never more than what I said. The reason for that is thats long enough to get the wood to 212 going longer just boils out the "good-stuff" from the wood.......most problems happen when there is a delay between "out of the steam to the actual bend" if it is more than about 15 seconds you are allready too late. They used to make wagon wheels up here and my bud has 4 "half-rims" for 48" wheels that are 3X6 bent in a half circle with no issues to the wood at all and they are more than 100 years old.....those are steamed but also shot with steam during the whole process.
Fred The slots and "rounds make 4 different radius type bends all the way from long (high slot on the left) to short static turns slot far to right.....the parrallel slots on top Is when I want to straighten snake.....I lign that up first wher I want to straighten and set the block on the floor below the stove.....out of the steam ...tip under the cupboard toe kick and edge bend in the slot.
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First off I never steam wood more than 5 minuets ((up to 3/4 thick) and never more than 10 min at one time. A couple things with that, when the bow comes out of the steam it is less than 5 seconds to complete the bend ....no not a misprint.
Well, that's a new one on me. Most every steaming wood source says 45 min. to an hour per inch. But if it works for you on your bows, I certainly believe you, and I'm going to try it that way next time. Can't argue with success! Thanks for the explanation.
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Lookin great stix. I'm sure that's gonna be a sweet shooter.
Rich I'll be posting some similar pics shortly hopefully.
B....maybe we ought to get together and do some tillerng!
Way to stay on top of the trade Fred!! Only way to keep it going smoothly.
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The wood block is just for leverage....cant remember what the post name was but I have pics in it where I took a couple inches (lateral) out of some osage and even showed the stove clock to prove the timing.
You put the bend in after 5 min of steam, do the bend, and hold it in place for maybe 2 minuets.....done .....but if you feel the wood it will still be hot as all get out.
rich
PS if it will help, I'll redo the pics of a actual bend with the clock in the pics and how I do it.....I think I can sweet talk Mrs. into a few minuets of her time. One other thing....even if I steam in the evening, the bow is ready to work the next day with no issues. Did ya ever notice when you take the wood out after an hour how the wood looks bone dry? If ya bend it like I do the wood will be "wet" when bent and only needs to dry some.
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After steam i usually wait aboot 4 days before anymore work, after dry heat usually wait 2 days. Dont like to rush things. Patience , grasshopper.
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Ty, good questions. I've read that chapter too and the mass principle makes sense to me. I've been conscious of those principles with the bows I've built in the past year. I'm certainly not qualified to answer your questions but why don't you PM Badger and ask him directly......keep us posted.
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PS if it will help, I'll redo the pics of a actual bend with the clock in the pics and how I do it.....I think I can sweet talk Mrs. into a few minuets of her time. One other thing....even if I steam in the evening, the bow is ready to work the next day with no issues. Did ya ever notice when you take the wood out after an hour how the wood looks bone dry? If ya bend it like I do the wood will be "wet" when bent and only needs to dry some.
Rich you don't have to prove it (to me at least), I've seen your work, and totally believe it. Just glad to know it can be done that way. :)
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Rich, yes indeed, I'm glad to know of your success with your technique too. I will try it. I've had numerous conversations with other bowyers about the potential degrade of bow wood by excessively steaming or heating it. I've steamed green staves for an hour + to bend the entire stave but also wonder how it's changing the wood. A wagon wheel that remains fairly static and a bow that must constantly bend are two different situations obviously. Have you ever seen any scientific data on the property effects of steaming and heating wood? That would be most interesting. I work with hickory a good bit. Have you had the same success with hickory using those very short steam times?
Thanks......Drew
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You'll find that most studies show an increase of wood strength properties with steaming at typical temperatures for up to an hour.
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I've got to get around to reading these books. I have no idea what mass principle is or anything else. When I build a bow I just go with the flow. Yes I do heat and steam the bow to get unwanted flaws or to recurve the tips or to straighten enough to get the string in the correct spot. I guess my theory is just take what the wood gives you and go with it. Might be the wrong way but it's the Gutshot way. Oh well at least I'm learning a lot from everybody from the youngest to the oldest and that's why I joined up for this trade. Hey David let's see a pic of the best looking shave horse on this thread. The pic of you I could just barely see part of it. But dang it looked like a nice one. Well let's just all post a pick of our shave horses if you got one. I'll post mine tonight.
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Gutshot, sounds exactly like some ole dude I know ::) Except for the "get the books part" dont know if it's a case of "too old" or "this works just fine".
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HALF EYE. WORKS JUST FINE SOUNDS GOOD TO ME.
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My shave horse is just a kind of long 3-legged stool - two legs one end joined to the third by a piece of 3x2 - about 3 foot long - that I knocked up out of bits of scrap timber - I usually bolt an engineers vice onto one end and sit on a removable seat on the other for carving. The seat has long lugs that sit each side of the cross-bar but when I am shaving down a length of timber, it goes onto the timber and my weight holds the timber in place giving me a 3 feet long legth of timber to plane, supported by the cross bar, without a hold-down in the way. I prefer the set up on my work bench as I have bolted a wooden 'anvil' to one of the legs - a piece of 4x4 pine extending to about the height of my solar plexus. This anvil is placed so timber can be held in the bench-vice and supported by the anvil for work- its been so useful I almost never use the surface of the bench except for leaving tools on. One day I'm going to replace it with a leg-vice..........
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/01/image.jpeg)
getting ready to de-bark my hazel bow
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_112315443_zpsygo1sxxt.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_112315443_zpsygo1sxxt.jpg.html)
Yesterday I worked on my trade bow I marked 5/8" to reduce limb thickness and cut it out on bandsaw
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_112333292_HDR_zpsnjhmb6hh.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_112333292_HDR_zpsnjhmb6hh.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_123025731_zpsf3zcaqze.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_123025731_zpsf3zcaqze.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_133856515_zpsk8jwrele.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_133856515_zpsk8jwrele.jpg.html)
I worked it to floor tillering ... Now ready to put in the form to dry heat
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_161112845_zpsi44fstuy.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_161112845_zpsi44fstuy.jpg.html)
I put Crisco on right limb and put heat to it and begin clamping it in
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180442903_zpsumnswrn7.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180442903_zpsumnswrn7.jpg.html)
After it set for a hour I took off the clamps and my heart sank
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180448622_zpsu6jnle5l.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180448622_zpsu6jnle5l.jpg.html)(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180448622_zpsu6jnle5l.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180448622_zpsu6jnle5l.jpg.html)
The heat caused cracks on the back ... I think due to to much moisture in wood
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180437589_HDR_zpssucb4otd.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180437589_HDR_zpssucb4otd.jpg.html)
And my rookie mistake of burning the back .... I'm going to put this in the house and let it dry for a month then try to raw hide back it but I'm also start a new bow out of hhb
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180316546_zps6eosfxby.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180316546_zps6eosfxby.jpg.html)(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180334282_zpstb9ptkcc.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180334282_zpstb9ptkcc.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180334282_zpstb9ptkcc.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_180334282_zpstb9ptkcc.jpg.html)
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I'm still upset with myself but know I'll learn from this I still have other options with more stave's to... I think I'll brought out a new Osage stave and put it in the house for a while and work on it as well later
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Stuckinthemud that wooden mallet thing in your pic is to cool what is it used for and what's the story behind it. I like old stuff like that.
Otter cool looking stave. Man I need a bandsaw I do every thing with nothing but hand tools. Makes it hard on the joints when your hatcheting bark and sap wood off not to mention getting the shape of the bow
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Hey Otter,
That Osage....could see the pic real clear but is the issue a check running up the middle of the limb? If so that wont make much difference, I made bows for myself like that, super-glued the crak, clamped and they are still shooting today.....I know ya aint pleased from the bling point of view but with osage, ironwood, hard maple etc it should hurt performance. Assuming the check dont run off of the side.
Would it be too much of a pain to take a couple more pics. If my old eyes didn't see right please disregard, sir.
rich
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I'm uploading pictures now and no they never tore out to the side what I'm upset the most is where I burnd the back side in one place... It was at a kink area rookie mistake
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Had the same thing happen with a piece of osage and rich gave me the same advice....it's still together...I did rawhide back it as well. Good luck man!
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160130_090653428_zpsvivrv6r4.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160130_090653428_zpsvivrv6r4.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160130_090715606_zpsnyvdcv4z.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160130_090715606_zpsnyvdcv4z.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160130_090738750_zpswoyfyiid.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160130_090738750_zpswoyfyiid.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160130_090659976_zpsjwvowxnq.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160130_090659976_zpsjwvowxnq.jpg.html)
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Yesterday I cut my splices.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160129_102424543.jpg)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160129_102441127.jpg)
Then I worked on the fit. Its not perfect but it will do.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160129_110702330.jpg)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160129_110654560.jpg)
Then I glued it up.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160129_113104917.jpg)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160129_113026137.jpg)
While waiting on glue to dry I roughed out the osage stave.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160129_140313541.jpg)
While rasping around a whoopty doo a knot remnant decided to tear out.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160129_174845240.jpg)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160129_174855977.jpg)
I flooded it with super glue and clamped it back in place. I don't have high hopes that it will survive but we will see.
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160130_091841945_zps8hu3psoi.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160130_091841945_zps8hu3psoi.jpg.html)
Here's a better picture might have to zoom in
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Otter, never have used dry heat so I sure cant give advice on that "wrap around" scorch mark, but dont really see tham lateral checks as a problem. Hell man, you in the shop with that Turtle guy, I heard from a concordia spy that Turtle makes screamin fast bows 8) 8)
Turtle, dont want to say the obvious but ya do know that Otter's eat Turtles.....right? He gets to lookin hungry keep an eye out >:D
rich
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Lol ... I am hungry come to thinking about it >:D
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Otter, no problem on the cracks or the scorch marks. You didn't burn it bad enough to do any damage. As they age it adds character IMO. You can lightly sand a little bit of it out but in time the entire stave is going to darken and blend. I've had both problems in the past and the bows shoot fine. In fact here's one of my favorites.
And your splices are much cleaner than mine. I always have to steam and clamp mine overnight to get them to match up that good.
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Otter, no problem on the cracks or the scorch marks. You didn't burn it bad enough to do any damage. As they age it adds character IMO. You can lightly sand a little bit of it out but in time the entire stave is going to darken and blend. I've had both problems in the past and the bows shoot fine. In fact here's one of my favorites.
Its just worring me .... The first bow I ever tempted back in 2011 was Osage and I did the same thing then on one limb... I foor tillered it and put the string on it and started tillering to get both limbs bending properly, I was flexing bow back and forth to about 24 inched orso and whammy it snaped right at the scorched spot ... It was in the middle like this one... So you dont think I need to raw hide back it? Up for all thoughts and knowledge!
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That is a sweet looking take down
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Perhaps you could consider sinew?
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That is a sweet looking take down
No joke on that otter. Hey Fred come on down and teach me a thing or two on those take downs.
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Turtle - looks like that splice fit like a glove. Nicely done! Have not used that epoxy before - is it a type you have used before and do get it locally? The osage stave looks nice to - too bad for the tear out. You guys are rockin.
Otter - IMO you just never know about scorching the back. I have seen scorched backed bows that have shot 1000's of arrows, but I have also seen them pop a splinter right at the scorch. I think the raw hide is a good idea.
Mitch
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Turtle that's a sweet splice
I'm pretty darn jealous right now all you guys working on bows and I stuck at work for 2 more weeks without a day off. But keep it up cause it gets me through the day a lot better.
Fred I'm glad this build is going good. Your doing an awesome job with it.
Half Eye and everybody else. I love seeing your work and reading the help comments for everybody's ?'s
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I got the ERC molle to a good 4" bear last night. Now I've got it reverse braces an extra 1.5" ready go the sinew to go down. I didn't want to go any further than a good brace due to being ERC, I cut brough multiple grain layers. And I'm pretty sure I have what's left of a pitch pocket left on the back along most of the limb. So this one has me a little skittish to pull it without a backing. I'm still trying to figure out what to due about where I have that tensioner block (old string spool). I think I'll leave it and in a couple weeks once the original sinew is dry enough I'll plug in a patch of sinew to fill it in later. I could just build a wood jig that'll hold the limbs up while I pull the handle down but I'm already set up in a simpler fashion. Once she's all glued up I'll set it to the side and start on my other trade bow, the. Get plan B started.
Kyle
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That wasn't the first take down attempted but it was the first one that succeeded :laugh:
Here is the first attempt which 12 years after starting I finally finished last year.
<a href="http://s190.photobucket.com/user/Bowferd/media/Fritz/DSC00089_zpsaanw82lr.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z314/Bowferd/Fritz/DSC00089_zpsaanw82lr.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC00089_zpsaanw82lr.jpg"/></a>
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I think Fred has done a awesome job as well... Thank you for all the comments and help... This is what makes this so special and educational for all no matter where your skill level is and helping to achieve what you thought was unachievable... Thanks yeah all, you all rock
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And this will be #4
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T-88 is great bow building epoxy. Made by System Three.
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Those are nice ... Love the snakey one.... I made one take down bow for a lady from Alaska two years ago for hauling on a plane reason she use it in church teachings all over the world ... I made it really light poundage like a little kids bow but it turned out great.
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140902_121010_945_zpst17k44op.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140902_121010_945_zpst17k44op.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140903_190538_757_zpsvihk7gy1.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140903_190538_757_zpsvihk7gy1.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140903_190308_232_zpse9tuxpmx.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140903_190308_232_zpse9tuxpmx.jpg.html)
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I love all of the takedowns being posted, one has been on my list for a while :)
Got a little more work done on my Osage. Used the localized steam bending at the handle to bring the tips in line, went a little past straight we'll see how much of it holds O:)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/29A881A0-DC57-4B66-B419-7DFC2C0B98A7.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/29A881A0-DC57-4B66-B419-7DFC2C0B98A7.jpg.html)
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Today's goal is to finish working the back down to a single ring and layout the bow. I found it more difficult to do at night on my workbench, so I waited until I could get some natural light. Looks like today is a good one for scraping a bow. Once I get it cleaned up, will post some pictures.
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Man you guys are whipping them out. Everything I've seen looks promising. I realize a lot of you have busy schedules and the weekend is the only time you can really get to humpin. I'll bet we get to see lots of work the next couple days.
Weekends offer the best opportunity to post them up and ask for advice because so people are on board. Looking forward to seeing some more of your work.
Fred
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Here are the 3 on am currently working on from top to bottom....Elm, ERC and hickory curve(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/0ac3b971-4ffa-4b11-b840-c0a4dc77d01f_zpswogz1ibs.jpg)
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That elm has some crazy potential hammer. Is that all natural reflex?!
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Amen to that Fred.....
Damned Hammer you a busy man !!!!
I took some more pics regarding the steam.....had a rough our for a back-bow and it had about 2" of lateral misalignment so took the opportunity to show how I use the little block to fix that. The rough out is ironwood, 1-1/4 wide and 3/4 thick at time of steaming.
I lay the block down and measure it for the right distance up to the pencil marks I used to mark where the bend was.....5 min in the steam and wallah straight.....
Pictures of how it works and a before and after of the stick
rich
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Pretty slick rich! I'll be posting some progress pics pretty quick. Hopefully have a string on one by the end of next week.
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Wow!!! I'm building myself a new jig. I've been using two trees out back that are real close together but that's the cat's pajamas 8)
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That's a pretty slick jig, Half eye! When I get to working on a stave, I'll have to keep something like that in mind.
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ajooter....yes reaction wood I guess , cut in august...we will see how much is left after the tillering process-Hammertime
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Stuckinthemud that wooden mallet thing in your pic is to cool what is it used for and what's the story behind it. I like old stuff like that.
The handle belonged to a lignum vitae carvers mallet I bought when I started carving 30 years ago but the head is a replacement I turned from oak a few years back when I wore out the lv head. Carvers mallets can't miss the chisel handle as the round surface will always catch the chisel so you can focus on the cutting edge in a way you just can't with a joiners mallet. Most carvers turn a variety of sizes and weights to suit the energy needed; fine delicate work needs a smaller mallet than roughing out some big lump of oak. Too light is no good for anything as you need to have enough oomph to move the chisel.
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Guy's this trade is OFF THE CHAIN ! I have never seen so much dust, shavings, steaming/heating, bending and most of all DETERMINATION...Keep the pictures and pages coming guy's.
Fred, you and Rich are doing a fantastic job and are to be commended...This is the kind of trade I like to see, one that promotes, motivates and supports the new guys...This is real PA spirit ;)
Thanks guys, Don
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I got a heavy layer of sinew on, more like 3 layers applied at the same go. and the first cloth wrapped heating. It pulled quite a bit of glue out. I'm going to let it set up then pull the cloth and see how it looks. I'll probably hit it one more time using long rubber bands to get a good compression. Then go from there. It was bending good and even strung up the correct direction, but doesn't seem as even when strung backward.
Kyle
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I have worked the back on the red bud down to a single ring. Here are some pictures of the pin knots I found while getting it to a ring, and some tear outs left over from an overly aggressive sapwood removal last year. I might miss these when I layout the bow, but if not, should I go down one more ring to get under these tear outs? Do you see any issues with the pin knots? I was thinking to leave it a little wider around them.
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Here are the tear outs...
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Otter, never have used dry heat so I sure cant give advice on that "wrap around" scorch mark, but dont really see tham lateral checks as a problem. Hell man, you in the shop with that Turtle guy, I heard from a concordia spy that Turtle makes screamin fast bows 8) 8)
Turtle, dont want to say the obvious but ya do know that Otter's eat Turtles.....right? He gets to lookin hungry keep an eye out >:D
rich
LOL....I made sure to feed him well the last couple days. Be carefull around that concordia spy. He's a shifty looking character. ::)
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"shifty fella" now thats funny right there
rich
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Turtle - looks like that splice fit like a glove. Nicely done! Have not used that epoxy before - is it a type you have used before and do get it locally? The osage stave looks nice to - too bad for the tear out. You guys are rockin.
Mitch
As PatM said its made by system 3 and ican get it at Woodcrafters for a little under 20 bucks. I used iton the last bow i spliced and it worked well.
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Loope, how wide is that stave?
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I like the look of that red bud stave loope! I don't think those tear outs look too substantial. You can always back it with rawhide if you want a little insurance. Im ordering a whole goat raw skin today to cut some rawhide strips. I would happy to pass them along to anybody who needs them.
This is the second stave I have been working on. I continued thinning the limbs down and I think I got far enough thru that last knot that was giving me problems so that it is now fully contained in the limb. I went with a Z shaped handle of sorts utilizing some of the natural features of the stave. I have to clean up the front profile of the bottom limb a little further but then I should be ready to start getting the limbs to come around in my bench vise. I find that I usually continue to refine the front profile at least 2-3 times as I reduce the belly to get closer to floor tiller. I keep tracing a light centerline down the middle of the limb and measure out from each side in this case to 3/4" to get a limb width of 1.5". This also help me follow the grain and keep everything centered within the limb. Once I get the limbs bending evenly im going to do a light heat treatment and induce a little reflex into the stave. I also wanted to try and flip the tips.
Hey rich....how much of recurve have you out into limbs with your steaming method? I was thinking about trying a static curve. Both limbs have been scraped down to one ring at the tips and id like to try it. Do you steam a little longer for a more aggressive bend?
(http://i.imgur.com/8D7jof9.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/l1S2zkg.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/UC6SItp.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/tlEQNqF.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/7Edlhd4.jpg?1)
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Loope. Those small tear outs are cosmetic only. Wont hurt it a bit, I usually just smooth them out some with sand paper and then ignore them. Try to keep the knots away from extreme edge if you can and they should be fine also.
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Loope, reason I asked the width was because of the knot and tear out next to the penny. If it's wide enough I would eliminate that knot in the layout.
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AJ....that baby is lookin sweet right there....using the natural stave like you did in the grip is outstanding sir 8) 8)
My advice on the statics is to steam about 5 min and start your bend.....only bend untill you feel resistance, and stop.....put it back in for 5 and continue for round 2......you may need 3 go's but it should bend real well. Since you wont being letting the stick cool between bend attempts dont be surprised if some comes out inbetween the go's.....no worry.... look at it like "training" the wood to go that far...and once you get it.... hold it for at least 3 minuets (thats a long time when your holding it) then let loose of it and you should be good to go on the other end.
How thich are your limbs for the first 6"?
rich
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forgot to say about the static steam thing....when you bend on each "go" stop when the resisitance build but do hold for about a minuet to give the fibers a chance to "stretch some and the inside curve to compress some.......sorry, just realized I lost that bit in the shuffle ::) ::)
rich
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Mr Burchett,
I didn't even see your post first off.....these guys are animals bud. Everybody is doing great work and a hell of a lot of it too. This old man cant hardly keep up 8) 8) 8)
You are sure right about the trade, Fred had a vision and damned if he aint pullin it off. I'm real proud to be with this group.....except maybe Otter.....he's lookin at Turtle real funny like >:D
rich
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Mr Burchett,, Likewise and thank you for the compliment.
I've been pretty damned fortunate to have had Rich sign on and the rest is due too a whole darned good bunch of people that just wanted to build bows, have fun, and help this thing work. And that is somewhat bloody blind luck more than vision.
But being the bashful sort that I am I'm blushing with pride.
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The red bud is pretty wide right now, approx 3 inches. I think I can miss the big knots and maybe the small tearouts. Thanks turtle for the advice on the tearouts. However, it looks like the pin knots are going to be in the limb. Are they small enough to almost ignore? Treat like a knot and don't cut them, let the grain flow around them?
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Loope, the pic you just posted. If that knot runs straight down, no problem. If it angles into the belly closer to the center you may have to approach it differently. Can you post the belly shot?
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Sinew job is all done. I did about how PatM did in the walk through at the top of the page. And I think it turned out well. Except for the grooves from wrapping it's almost perfectly smooth. It'll take no filling and minimal sanding to get it smooth. Both heating sessions took a lot of glue and moisture out of the sinew. I can't wait to see how it looks in a month. I have a few things I'll need to correct with the stave when it's done drying. One lever has about 30 degrees of twist. So I'll popp off the overlay and reglue it on in the same plane as the limbs. And the string lies on the edge of the handle but ill just leave that. Now to finish up a couple I had started then begin another.
Kyle
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Fred,
It is actually a cluster rather than a single large knot. It looks like the largest angles in towards the middle, you can see the pin on the belly side.
I still need to try to layout the dimensions and see how much I can avoid.
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I like the look of that red bud stave loope! I don't think those tear outs look too substantial. You can always back it with rawhide if you want a little insurance. Im ordering a whole goat raw skin today to cut some rawhide strips. I would happy to pass them along to anybody who needs them.
Ajooter
(http://i.imgur.com/7Edlhd4.jpg?1)
This handle is off the chart. Great job on it
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That is violated through at least a couple rings at the knot and it angles toward the center on the belly so it will need to remain in the pattern. You can use multiple methods to save it. My first choice would be to remove 2 more rings on the stave staying completely away from those knots (with the draw knife) and all the other knots too. You don't want anymore tear outs. If it's deep enough which it looks like it is you have plenty of wood to work with, ( but I don't have it in my hands to study the entire stave for other difficulties ).
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Damned coon-catcher, do you ever sleep man >:D The old guy is gettin wore out just thinkin about that.....maybe I need a nap ::) ::) ::) >:D
rich
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I don't even remember what sleep is. And I feel like I'm barely keeping with with some of these guys. I don't know if I've ever seen this much progress this quickly.
Kyle
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I hear ya.....kinda scared to get off the thread for food (or anything else) come back and 2 pages behind.....aint it great 8)
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Mr Burchett,
I didn't even see your post first off.....these guys are animals bud. Everybody is doing great work and a hell of a lot of it too. This old man cant hardly keep up 8) 8) 8)
You are sure right about the trade, Fred had a vision and damned if he aint pullin it off. I'm real proud to be with this group.....except maybe Otter.....he's lookin at Turtle real funny like >:D
rich
Yeah know this her otters from the buckeye state and we like to chew on Michigan's lol
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I've been having a tough time making weight. Can't say what it is to avoid clues, and I've run out of options and am on the verge of too much set. No string follow yet. The bow is otherwise my best performer so far. Fifty arrows through it and the unfinished blank is in the upper 170's w/10 gpp. Starting to finish it tonight, but if eight doesn't pan out after more shooting in, it will be a personal bow for me and on to good old....you guessed it......Plan B!
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBow5.jpg)
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBow4.jpg)
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/TradeBow6.jpg)
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Plan B, just curious, but if it's shootin that fast, dont believe a few pounds really matters, especially if ya got the draw length ya want.....just sayin 8)
rich
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Hey guys I need some advice. I'm chasing another Osage stave and am a little concerned about this bug damage. It goes close to 1" in diagonally in the center of the limb about 13" from the tip. Is there any hope? Can I fill it with super glue? I've got some two tone epoxy!
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Tim....I would fill them with a thin glue and sawdust mixture...a sloppy paste of sorts.
B....I know you deflex ed the handle on that bow....did you flip the tips as well?
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I've done a few with bug holes and just shot some super glue in and left that spot a little stiffer.
Kyle
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I'll see if I can find pics. I did one similar couple years ago. I made sure they were cleaned out by running a solid copper wire into the opening. I actually had it come out through another hole a couple of inches up the stave. I then filled the void with fine osage sanding dust and tamped and packed in in with the wire.Then saturated with Loctite 420.
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Here's my sloppy shave horse. It use to actually be one till one day I got alittle mad a purchased this vice and junked the rest. Let's see every body else's
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On a side note....and rich and Fred can scold me after....but I think some of us (including myself) may be trucking along a little fast...I just realized I haven't had two bow blanks worked out this fast ever....I'm thinking about letting my blanks sit for a couple days just to weigh them and monitor the weight loss if any. I cut these a little over a year ago and they have been in the garage. I have had them inside since the start of the trade. I hear hickory likes to hang onto moisture.
All that being said I'm thrilled with how the trade is going so far and the level of commitment that is already being displayed by all the participants.
Thanks again fred and rich for taking part in this!
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aj....you aint the only one havin fun ya know....all of the participants are a real inspiration to me and most everyone else.
Gutshot....here's a pic of my "horse" and vice
Otter, aint scared man....her's why.....I'm too small, too old, and aint got enough meat to make a snack. But here's the kicker nobody wants to eat something thats covered in POO >:D
rich
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I had other things that needed done today so no bow work. :(
Wont have much time for bows until Thursday ( dang job >:() but then I will have 6 days off. ;D
In the meantime I will keep checking in.
This is the horse/vice Otter and I use. But alot of times istill prefer one like Rich's.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160129_110654560.jpg)
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Rich I like back rest and all
Turtle, Otter yours to is nice too.
Ok I've got the twist out of this limb but it's kicking my butt. Should I try to straighten at #1 or 2 I'm gonna leave the crook coming out of the fade and the circles are pin knots. I'm using heat to straighten. What cha think. It's half time of the game so I've got 20 minutes lol
And if the pic comes back up of the Osage and tape measure I don't know why it's not my pic
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Gutshot......... I would probably straighten at #2 just to not stress the pins but thats just me.
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Otter, aint scared man....her's why.....I'm too small, too old, and aint got enough meat to make a snack. But here's the kicker nobody wants to eat something thats covered in POO
Lol yeah your right about the poo ... I hope to get busy again here soon... I might have to buy a new bandsaw blade mine feels sharp but wasn't liking that hhb ... Too fat to use ax lol
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Otter.
I cut a bunch of ironwood....I get my blades from the local "industrial supply" waht works best for me is This: comes right off their tag when they make 'em up....NEO- length- 3/4--3Hook I also use 1/2" 4 hook. My saw is real old and only 1 hp but I can cut most "half logs" up to about 6" depth.
Just what I use
rich
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Half eye,
I have a old sears craftsmen and it only has a 1/2 horse motor .. 1/2" blade is the widest I can go, best place I found to get mine are at woodcrafter's ... I forget what the length is off the top of my head... Only paid 50 BUCKS for it ... I do have a 3/4 horse motor same rpm and a 1 1/2 horse that's faster horse just need different pully.
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Faster rpm lol the 1/2 horse will bind up especially if you get the stave in a little twist
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Thats the reason for using the "hook tooth and only 4 to the inch) the hook has a wider tooth set and the teeth will really help clear the kerf....it will actually be easier on your 1/2 horse. The blade stock they use is Lennox.....they do measure in feet and inches though and since I blocked mine the blades are 7 feet-9-1/2 inches They are big.....but they cost 16 dollars.
rich
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I'll try and see if I can find some of those blades thanks for the info half eye
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Ok here's my progress for the day. I actually got a lot done. It's to floor tiller and ready for the next stage. It's at 1 1/4" at the fades and 70" long. It's turning out nice. I'm going to to fill the hole with yeller wood and super glue and round the belly some and hope it holds. The last is the sister stave. I've got another 73" Osage stave to split and chase a ring on but I'll do that Monday I'm going to church tomorrow so I probably won't get any bow work done.
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I use tb3 or tb2 with sawdust.. I think superglue might set up kind of fast and not mix well.
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I use tb3 or tb2 with sawdust.. I think superglue might set up kind of fast and not mix well.
That's a good idea thanks I'll give that a try. I've got more tb3 anyway!
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If you use slow set epoxy or wood glue you mix and then patch. If you use sg then you pack the hole with dry sawdust and then saturate with sg.
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Well, I made some progress tonight, too!
Here's a glamour shot of some osage shavings from getting the side profile to size.
(http://i.imgur.com/hcttykX.jpg?1)
I managed to get the limbs roughed out on the sides tonight. I won't be able to do much tomorrow, but Monday (Sundays and Mondays are my weekend) I will hopefully get the belly roughed out.
(http://i.imgur.com/Mx30VlQ.jpg)
I also ordered some Smooth On, so as soon as that gets here, the real fun begins! >:D
Also, as a side note, occasionally for my job, I will have to fill in cracks, chips, and holes in wooden clarinets. Mixing CA glue with dust from the original wood does a fine job of making a patch. I will alternate putting sawdust in the hole with putting some CA glue on the dust, then pack it in, until there is a slight mound. You can then sand the patch down. By the time you stain and finish it, it's damn hard to tell there was anything wrong with the wood.
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Got my stave split in 2, now I got a stave and a backup! I will have some followup questions regarding the rings on this stave, but for now, I wanted to show progress.
First 3 pics show my centerline tool and the actual line.
(http://i.imgur.com/FBB4Uni.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Rtik7sv.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/OOvdwZw.jpg)
Here is my kerfing and splitting tool selection, and the kerf.
(http://i.imgur.com/3lnAJ7h.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/dyhgIIn.jpg)
Lets get to splitting!
(http://i.imgur.com/iG10IXy.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/RokDkDf.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/sLcJM44.jpg)
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TY and Sidmand.....Man you fellas get after it dont ya....Some fine and picky work right there gentlemen 8) 8) 8)
rich
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I have an old Duplicarver 3 wheel bandsaw w/ a 24" wide throat. The wheels are small however, so it eats blades. I now buy 100' rolls of bandsaw blade and make up my own by silver soldering them. It's not hard, and takes less then 5 minutes per blade. I use a skip tooth blade like Rich's.
Some bandsaw tips for those who don't already know them.....
When re-sawing very thick cuts, you can make up a tall L-shaped wooden fence that you just C-clamp to the table. This will support the face of your board rather than the table supporting the edge, and give you much more consistent thickness.
Also, instead of trying to get your wooden fence square across the table, set it at whatever angle the blade wants to cut a straight line on a test piece. Then clamp it down. If you're lucky and everything in your guides is adjusted perfect, and it's a new blade the test cut MIGHT be square to the table, but generally it isn't. So don't try to fight it -- set the fence parallel with the way the blade wants to cut.
When cutting curved lines on bow blanks (the usual situation) without a fence, as for instance doing the belly cut, don't run the bow flat to the table. Angle the blank a little toward the back (but cut just outside your line). Do this from both sides. This will cut a beveled belly with the high point in the center -- a little thicker than at the edge of the bow.
This ridge is easier to plane off than a flat back with extra thickness would have been, and yet still gives you extra meat in case the blade bows or your table and blade were off square..... or other errors happen. And they do on a bandsaw when ripping irregular grain.
Finally, don't think you have to cut the sides of the bow with a bandsaw, just because it tapers or even has a gradual curve. I often use the tablesaw for this freehand on 1" or thinner stock -- ie a board bow, or bendy handle bow. I set the blade height just over the thickness of the material (important to minimize binding). You have to go slow, stop and switch off if there is any binding, and don't cut out the handle and fade dips, leave those for a bandsaw or other method.
Obviously freehanding is more risky than straight guided cuts with a tablesaw, and should be done only if you are experienced at it. But if you are comfortable freehanding on a tablesaw, you'll get a smoother cleaner faster cut for a bow blank than on a bandsaw. I now cut bow blanks that way, clean up the handle and fades on the band saw, and then band saw the thickness taper, per above.
Of course a hatchet and heavy rasp works great, too for all of the above, but if you have the machinery and want to use it, maybe some of the above will be helpful. :)
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Everybody's looking good, I'm feeling like I'm falling behind. Here's what I have going on. from left to right, 2 ironwood staves I got from Rich last summer. Two are roughed out and one I bent some flip into the tips. The other staves are, one ash, and one shorty hickory stave. I also have another shorty hickory stave I have bending. I put some copperhead skins on the tips, and in the pic, glueing on some birchbark backing. This is the one I mentioned way early that has a silk backing. I didn't like the color of the silk after glueing, so now applying bark and skins. It ended up too short, had to pike it a little. I'll probably only get 22 or 23" draw out of it. I guess I'll have to keep that one for myself...oh darn. ;)
Tattoo Dave
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Nice job Sid! Dave I do t think your anywhere near behind....nice looking set of staves!
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Plan B, real good advice right there. I too freehand all my cuts on both saws (my bad >:D) and I agree with you about using extreme caution while doing so at the beginning......but once ya have it it's a wonderful time saver.
Dave you looking good bud.....well, rather your work is ::) aint no hope for you man
rich
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Nobody's falling behind that I can see here! Some of us have more time to whittle, being old, mentally stuck in an earlier time, and self-unemployed except for small jobs when they come up. I admire everyone's work here and am amazed at the progress all around. We're doing this because we like to, not because we hve a quota to fulfill or a boss telling us to produce. So it can go as fast or as considerate and measured as it needs to be for each individual.
Me, I'm an impatient cuss, and stubbornly independent, so I'm sure to go too fast, ignore advice, and make twice the mistakes. But that's what I like! :laugh: Makes life full.
I'm finishing up the bow now, don't know what it will finally pull after shooting in -- good chance it will miss min. weight by a little, maybe, maybe not. It will be awhile before I can shoot it again, as finish takes time, so I'm starting on a Plan B bow. We've got til August after all. And I said at the start of this I promised to do the best bow I can make. We'll see if I learned anything on the next one, and may the best bow win for my particular victim....
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBow7.jpg)
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We sound much alike B!! Especially with this bow I feel like I'm thinking so far ahead at things I want to do I know I'm getting ahead of myself at times.
"Me, I'm an impatient cuss, and stubbornly independent, so I'm sure to go too fast, ignore advice, and make twice the mistakes. But that's what I like! :laugh: Makes life full."
I don't think anybody has ever said truer words about me without even trying lol.
I have some questions about birch bark backing Dave. Do you soak the bark before application?
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I know I have posted progress pictures of how I do my nocks but I thought I would go into a little more detail. I start by marking a reference line down both sides of the belly from the tips to midlimb. Next I use that line as a reference as to how I taper/round the tips. I usually go all the way to the taper line for the first 6" and then taper it out to midlimb. I clean everything up with a finer rasp and scraper when that is all done. Next I make a reference mark 1" down on each side of the limb as well as marking a centerline down the belly of the limb a few inches from the tip. I draw my nock reference to intersect this centerline at the same spot. Next I use a nickolson 49 rasp the score the line I marked and follow that up with a chain saw file. I mark my outline for the front and side profile of the nock and shape them with a nickolson 49. Everything gets cleaned up with a finer rasp and sandpaper. I threw a picture of the top nock as well.
I also did some further work to the handle. I really like way the handle is shaping out.
(http://i.imgur.com/FICGW6v.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/Uz8HPhQ.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/AwVnGRT.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/VlB5gJb.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/YmWkvjj.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/WrnC4Pc.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/h5mwH4F.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/BSm6bSu.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/b2hG5pA.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/nFT46FC.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/lNm8TMr.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/WGE7GFs.jpg?1)
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ajooter, I figure a lot of us fits that description :) your bow looks great!
Sidmand, I really like how you split that. Your center marking gage is really similar to the 8-side gage used for marking the bevel lines on tapered spars in boatbuilding. They use two pencils.
Otter and Turtle, great to see you guys going to town on that wood, and a wonderful spacious shop you have!
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Ajooter, I'm a liking that handle more and more. It's very interesting. I look at it one way it has a natural rest for a RH shooter then I look at it another way and that natural RH rest becomes a good place for a LH to rest there thumb. Just a interesting peice. Keep up the good work!
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Got it floor tillered and now waiting for the tip overlays to dry :)
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What ya got there for bow wood cb guy?
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You'll have to bring her over for me to take a peek at once you get te tipsshaped out. I'm sure you'll have them shaped before I get off work.
Kyle
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Hickory back, osage belly, cherry core walnut and maple tips and handel
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Can't wait to see that one finished out. Wow, CBG, you learn quick.
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That sounds fantastic.....I hope you got my address right Fred! 8)
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(http://i.imgur.com/OMPXQtb.jpg?1)
Gonna steam the handle tonight and try to get everything lined up. I hope that knot at the handle plays nice during the operation. I'm pushing away from the knot to the right to get my alignment so I think I should be ok.
I do have a "plan b" if things don't go as planned ;D
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CBG, That is gonna be sweet. Cant wait to see her bending
Ajooter, It'll go great sir....way to nice lookin to have any issues....Ya sure dont need much movement. All you guys just amaze me.... 8) 8) 8)
rich
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Dang CBG that trilamb is nice I bet it will be a arrow smoker!!!
My BL has came to a stand still I just can't get that crooked limb where it needs to be. ITS NOT CORROPERATING!
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Gutshot, there is a little something on the way as of Monday should arrive mid week ;)
rich
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H.E. Cool I've put 3hrs into straightening this kind and still 1" away. It's been a bugger of a job. I want give up on it. There's a good bow in there some where. Plus PLAN B is on its way
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Gutshot, I know how you feel. I've been working all day on my stick trying to bend it but no luck really. This is my last try for the night:
(http://i.imgur.com/JnsGonJ.jpg)
My plan B that I worked on a bit today trying to straighten it gave me some bad news. I cut it with no leaves on and thought it was Ash but after some extensive research tonight I've figured out it's gotta be Box elder, which sucks :(
Better luck tomorrow.
(http://i.imgur.com/qutYOt1.jpg)
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I spent the afternoon taking the red bud down some more, chased down two more rings and it looks much better I think. Here is the knot cluster after taking off two more rings.
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Loope - the back of the redbud looks good. Did you figure out if you can avoid the knot on the edge of the stave when you layout your bow? I would try and avoid if I could - knots on the edge of the limb without plenty of wood flowing around them on the outside of the knot are problematic at best.
Mitch
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I'm a liking that red bud too....
Ive been trying to get this limb straight without cuting it down to my deminsions. Since I got it so close should I go ahead and trim it down to go the extra now. Or try another heat session this evening with it like it is. The complete width of the stave?
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Gutshot,
If your close but it's still being stubborn, I believe if you get close to final you have a better chance of moving it. I aint seen your stave or had it in hand, just seems the less wood ya got to move the easier it would be to move it.....Hows that for "no help at all" >:D
rich
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That's why I was thinking too just wanted a 2nd opinion. So tonight the wood chips will be flying and it will go back to the jig with a little heat to persuade it.
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I've always had better luck bending after its pretty much floor tillered.
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At the moment I am thinking of a take-down lever arm bow for my guy. I'm using a 4" wide, high crowned sapling which I have cut down to 2" wide at the fades, 65" ntn, any ideas how thick the limbs should be for a 50lb draw? Also, I have always gone hollow limb with hazel as I think it helps avoid crysals but is this a good approach for a lever-arm bow (don't wanna call it molle or holmegaard cos it won't be a replica)?
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Mud...weylin just built that had yew molly...so I'm sure it would work.
Rich....I almost got her in line last night went well past straight. Should be able to get the rest with the tip thinning. I have another bow to practice flipping tips on.
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(http://i.imgur.com/csrZtUH.jpg?1)
This was prior to bending....I'll post the other tonight. I want to get the limbs to come around a little then I'm gonna heat treat and hopefully flip the tips a little.
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Who posted they ordered goat rawhide? I can't find it or just overlooking it
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Ordered it yesterday gut. I get it from Moscow fur and hide. I cut it in 2" strips. If you need it wider let me know...just pm me your address.
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Mud...weylin just built that had yew molly...so I'm sure it would work.
don't suppose you know the link? Can't find it :)
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(http://i.imgur.com/csrZtUH.jpg?1)
This was prior to bending....I'll post the other tonight. I want to get the limbs to come around a little then I'm gonna heat treat and hopefully flip the tips a little.
Thats Looking Sweet
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http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php?topic=55261.0
Here's that link mud
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Well, finally got the little wife to take a few pics of me.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Drew-3_zpskxlgtcaj.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Drew-3_zpskxlgtcaj.jpg.html)
I got some work done on my stave Friday and have had it in my hot box since. It needs to dry a few more day since it's loosing weight. It was harvested last March but is not as dry as I thought. I need to get a crook out of the handle area and will post a few more pics soon.
It's great to see everyone making progress. Keep it roll'in guys.
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I finished the first layer of sinew on the black walnut. I'm working on layer #2 and will post a pic tonight.
Drewster, good mug shot. I had the impression you were younger. You've got me beat by a year.
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Holy Smoke, leave the site for a weekend and this thread doubles in size, lol
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I finished the first layer of sinew on the black walnut. I'm working on layer #2 and will post a pic tonight.
Drewster, good mug shot. I had the impression you were younger. You've got me beat by a year.
Hey Fred, I'm no "spring chicken" but I've sure had fun learning to build wooden bows......kinda addictive :-)
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OK, got all the wood out, halfway caught up, so now I get to join in the fun.....
rich
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Got a little bit more done today. I may have to back this one with deer rawhide. But I'm getting the twist out and putting reflex in it. Hopefully going to get back at it tonight when the wife comes back from the churches lady's meeting.
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NICE....
rich
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It's looking real good TimothyR
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Looking good Tim! I'm hoping to be doing the same soon. I think I got the alignment pretty well licked. There's a little twist near the lower nock but nothing that I think will need fixing.
(http://i.imgur.com/gzbxwtS.jpg?1)
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Looking good Tim! I'm hoping to be doing the same soon. I think I got the alignment pretty well licked. There's a little twist near the lower nock but nothing that I think will need fixing.
I agree - I think you got it. Looking nice.
Mitch
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Let's get things straight.......here's the problem.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%202016-1_zpsxiwazdsp.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%202016-1_zpsxiwazdsp.jpg.html)
I tried to lay out the bow so the crook would be at the smallest part of the handle.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%202016-2_zpskpm0g4ex.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%202016-2_zpskpm0g4ex.jpg.html)
Time for a steam bath.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%202016-3_zpsaerhoyby.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%202016-3_zpsaerhoyby.jpg.html)
I wrap aluminum foil around my pot so the heat coming up around the pot doesn't scorch the wood. I'll use different sized pots depending on the area I need to steam. I steamed this 10 minutes......per Rich, since the handle was a bit over 1" think where it needed to bend.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%202016-4_zpsc6welz8d.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%202016-4_zpsc6welz8d.jpg.html)
Clamps and form are ready and waiting.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%202016-5_zpswkoscsje.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%202016-5_zpswkoscsje.jpg.html)
Captured!
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%202016-6_zpsgcj4dijk.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%202016-6_zpsgcj4dijk.jpg.html)
Bent a bit past straight.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%202016-7_zpszl7jwblx.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%202016-7_zpszl7jwblx.jpg.html)
The big picture. We'll see how well we did in the morning.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%202016-8_zpshwrwchiu.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%202016-8_zpshwrwchiu.jpg.html)
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Thanks y'all. Man everything is lookin great!
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Timothy, ajooter Drewster, and all, lookin great! :)
Rich good to hear you got wood ready!
I had a pleasant surprise today when a new digital bow scale arrived in the mailbox -- my old spring loaded one was reading low by 4 pounds. I checked it with the new scale and known weights. Never doubted it before, but it turns out every bow I've made so far (including the trade bow) is 4 pounds heavier draw than I thought. That means my trade bow might be on my guy's target after all. I can't tell yet because I'm still working on finish and won't be able to string it again and shoot it in 'til done with that. I probably will still build another bow, just in case -- but I'm also psyched about this one!
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Timothy, reduce the stave down some more and it will bend easier. Those limbs are pretty thick.
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I have gotten some work done over the weekend. I backed the bow with whitetail rawhide.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/D195D052-D1CC-45CC-9C6A-70176DED914A_zpsnhsvxs5q.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/D195D052-D1CC-45CC-9C6A-70176DED914A_zpsnhsvxs5q.jpg.html)
I also cut nocks in the black walnut overlays.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/1D678A31-5E8C-4110-AAB5-F737424ACA76_zpsfxjgq35q.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/1D678A31-5E8C-4110-AAB5-F737424ACA76_zpsfxjgq35q.jpg.html)
I started taking wood off the belly and got it to a low brace. I tried a long string but quit that because one limb has reflex and the other doesn't. Now that I have it at low brace I can see where I need to take wood away. I definitely need to even the limbs up.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/94E1DD13-5669-4264-BED0-9100772AEEFB_zpsqkz6kur3.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/94E1DD13-5669-4264-BED0-9100772AEEFB_zpsqkz6kur3.jpg.html)
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Cb guy that's looking good..even in the miniature view :D
Swampman....rawhide looks good and low brace isn't bad at all!
Thinned down one tip after getting my alignment. Had an unexpected visitor in our bed upstairs so I had to relocate him bacj to his own bed and abandon the other tip till tomorrow.(http://i.imgur.com/4WQV2gK.jpg?1)
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I received a nice stave in the mail today. I now have a couple to work with, so I am hopeful that I should be able to put something nice together for the trade. I have to finish Mr sons' Christmas bows before I can really start on the trade but I am thinking really hard about how to do this right.
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Well got the trilam bending :) tiller still needs some work but its comming along, and man its snappy
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http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php?topic=55261.0
Here's that link mud
Oh my giddy godfathers that has got to be my new favourite bow, absolutely stunning! Thanks for the link ajooter, think I need to give up right now cos mine ain't gonna get anywhere near that one!!!!
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Drewster, man I would like to build a bow in your work shop ( nice, clean, and organized) mine dirty and unorganized! Keep up the good work.
Swamp man, rawhide and tip overlays looks good. You'll do fine fixing that tiller at low brace. That to me is the easiest time to fix it.
ajooter, like those thin tips. Looking good
CBG, your a flying through this build. Keep it up and you will beat us all done
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Wow you all are rocking... I've seen so many bows that are all mouth drooling.... I can't wait to get back at it but I'm letting my stave's dry for a week more inside .... I do have another Osage stave that I cut down in 2012 that I'm thinking about chasing a ring, can't have to many back ups with this bunch :o
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Bows are looking nice!
Drewster - curious to see how the steam worked on your handle area - hope you post some pics of the results. You bow is coming along nicely.
That rawhide turned out nice Swampman. The walnut looks good too. Looks like you have some dogwood shafts laying there on the bench behind your bow?
Those narrow tips look awesome ajooter - I love the looks of narrow tips!
CBG - I would say that the bends are looking nice on your trilam. Did you taper the core before glue up?
We have a blizzard going on here today - maybe will be able to get out to the shop and do some work on my bows!
Mitch
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Well it's in the 50's for the next couple days with rain all day tomorrow. Goodbye to the bay ice :'(.
On the bright side I'll be able to catch up to you over achievers. You guys all did your weekend homework on Friday night didn't you?
As promised here's a fishy pic.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2786_zpsa3z21h2f.jpg)
Caught 12 Thurs. night (by myself), 40 on Friday(with a buddy and my daughter), and 1 lousy fish (by my daughter on Saturday). I think they'd moved to deeper water because it was clear and sunny that day. Got them all filleted and in the deep freeze yesterday. After I take a look at my wife's squeaky brakes, I'm back to making shavings. I'll get a progress pic up after I make a little more of it.
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OK, I admit it, I need help.
First the handle was slightly kinked, with the tips not lining up by a half inch, so I (dry) heated the (hazel) stave into alignment - slight overbend that cooled into a dead straight stave. Two days later I may as well have not bothered and the stave is back in its old shape. I think I'll try steaming it becase hazel usually reacts really well to heat. The grain seems to run up the stave on one side and down the stave on the other, could this be causing me the alignment problems?
Mostly I need help with the dimensions: currently the stave is 65" ttt with a 70:30 ratio (working arm length to lever length) - is this ok or is the bow too long , and are the levers too short? Oh, how wide should the levers end up - they are an inch wide at the moment to give me some wriggle room.
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Those look good kid...I miss that poor man's shrimp.
I'm sure we can collectively get you straightened out mud....well the bow anyway ;) post some pictures of your layout and the grain orientation you mentioned.
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I assume you are making a mollie. I think a half inch might be too thick on the levers, but thats one of the few things on a mollie you can adjust later if need be. . My first mollie had 1/2" wide levers and a fair amount of hand shock to go with it. I took them down to just under 3/8" and it really helped and made the side profile narrower. They did have a slight taper narrowing to the tips(maybe another 1/16"). My levers were still pretty wide from the side though, compared to others I've seen. I liked how they looked though. I also think you could make the levers longer if you wanted or the bow shorter. I've done them with both long and short levers. The speed seems to increase with the lever length/working limb ratio, but so does the stress on the limbs and stacking of the draw weight. I tried pushing my last one. It was HHB, 56" ttt, with 9" levers and I went for a 65-70 draw @28". That one took some set, well... a lot of set, the most of any bow I made that survived. It also developed a slight hinge, it's in the rework/boredom pile at the moment. I wish I wouldn't have tried for too much, it had potential. Should have went with more working limb and 4" longer overall, and possibly some perry reflex.
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Looks like I may have the string alignment worked out. Hopefully it will hold. Going to set it aside till Monday and start working on another stave.
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Nice haul Dakota! I've wanted to try perch skin glue. It was supposed to be the glue of choice in cold weather Finnish type bows. Must have been fun catching them!
Swampman, ajooter, looking great!
Glad that worked out Timothy!
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Was the perch glue made from the air bladder? I tried to locate them when cleaning but couldn't. Plus, these were caught in shallow water <20', so the bladders were empty. It's easy to locate when they're caught in deep water. It's hard to miss it when it's sticking out the mouth. It's like the bends for a fish. That's one of the reasons there's no summer size limit up here. Rarely do they survive being brought up fast from deep water. It's better to have some small ones in the bucket than to throw them to the gulls and catch more, from a conservation stand point anyway.
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Was the perch glue made from the air bladder? I tried to locate them when cleaning but couldn't. Plus, these were caught in shallow water <20', so the bladders were empty. It's easy to locate when they're caught in deep water. It's hard to miss it when it's sticking out the mouth. It's like the bends for a fish. That's one of the reasons there's no summer size limit up here. Rarely do they survive being brought up fast from deep water. It's better to have some small ones in the bucket than to throw them to the gulls and catch more, from a conservation stand point anyway.
Dakota from what I read it was perch skin, not the bladder. I have heard of isninglass made from fish bladders, used in clarifying beer when brewing. I'll try to find the references for the skin glue....
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I actually looked it up while waiting to hear back from you. I went out to the trash and retrieved the skins. If you want them PM me your address. Dried first of course. Don't want to upset the mailman with rotten fish smell.
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Mwosborn.. yep tapered the cherry before glue up
Jason
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Dakota Kid, gotta love those perch. We had a spot out on the canal that flowed from Lake McConaughy to Lake Maloney that we fished as kids. The perch at that time we're abundant and man what great times we had. Nice catch.
TimothyR, I'm having a similar problem on my sinew backed black walnut. Rather than fighting anymore I'm going to eliminate the problem by using a side nock on the top limb. String alignment lines up perfectly that way.
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Thanks Jason -
A trilam will be new for me. Need all the help I can get. I am going to try to rig up some kind of jig for my sander that will allow me to taper. Wish I have a drum sander. :(
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I actually looked it up while waiting to hear back from you. I went out to the trash and retrieved the skins. If you want them PM me your address. Dried first of course. Don't want to upset the mailman with rotten fish smell.
Wow! Not to mention the missus! But she's used to some pretty crazy projects after all these years. PMing you. This should be interesting!
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Thanks Jason -
A trilam will be new for me. Need all the help I can get. I am going to try to rig up some kind of jig for my sander that will allow me to taper. Wish I have a drum sander. :(
You can buy a sanding drum drill attachment on line for about 10 dollars
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Found the reference, Dakota:
"Rausing also emphasised the importance of glue boiling, which requires
ceramic vessels, as being a necessary precondition for the development of the
horn bow (Rausing 1967: 148). The method for making glue from the skin of
perch (Perca fluviatilis) used by the Saami, and presumably by other Finno
Ugrian tribes, however, does not require the use of vessels for boiling, since the
skins only need to be steamed to obtain a high- quality glue, suitable for bow
making."
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Stuck - I have a couple of sanders. I was talking about a drum sander that would allow me to sand lamination down to a very specific thickness or taper a lamination from one end to the other. Thanks!
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With the blizzard going on and no work today I was able to get a few hours of work in on "plan A" - hackberry self bow. I worked it down to bow dimensions and ready to start bending the limbs to floor tiller.
Here are a couple of pics from each end with the alignment string on. The string goes through the handle fairly well from what I can tell. There is a slight prop twist on one end and a little bend in the other, but I don't think it is worth trying to straighten with the way the tips are lining up through the handle as is. What you think?
Also a couple of pics of the side profile - 1 from each side. Has just a bit of natural reflex.
Mitch
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Hey Kid, looks like you're in for some tasty eating.....nice catch.
Mitch, here's a pic of the stave since I removed the clamps while ago. Looks like I'm good to go :-) There are a couple of layout lines that I'll need to adjust......cause it's hard to lay out a bow on a bent stave.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%202016%20Straightened_zpsly3ptbhb.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%202016%20Straightened_zpsly3ptbhb.jpg.html)
I like Rich's short steam times. I'll continue to do that. Even steaming the handle for only ten minutes, there was some discoloration to the water. It always makes me wonder if there is damage being done to the wood when the steam if causing leeching. At least this was at the handle and should cause no problems.
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Here is what it looks like outside. That "white hump" is one of my 3D targets getting buried by snow!
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Nice shop Mitch......all that natural light is fantastic!!!
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Thanks Jason -
A trilam will be new for me. Need all the help I can get. I am going to try to rig up some kind of jig for my sander that will allow me to taper. Wish I have a drum sander. :(
I purchased a spindal sander at harbor freight. The mounted 2 inch aluminum angle iron on one end then I swing it toward the spindle set my depth and hold the other side with a c clamp. That's my poor mans drum sander. I am send a pick of it to you if you want to see it.
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Hey gutshot - that would be great. That is what I was thinking of doing also. I already bought the aluminum angle iron - seeing how you did it would help.
Drewster - looks like it lined up rather well!
Hey Kid - if you are giving away perch parts....I don't need any skins...but those fillets sounds yummy!! You could ship them on dry ice and they would get here just fine!! >:D
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Mitch , that Hackberry looks almost identical to one i'm workin on. what are your dimensions? I dry heated the prop twist out of the one limb and found a check crack on the one tip. the crack goes all the way thru from back to belly. will post a pic when i get home. ran some gorilla super glue in it and clamped it.
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Stix - if you got glue down into the crack and clamped it, I bet it will be fine. Currently mine is 66" ntn and right at 2" at the fades. Parallel out to 12" then tapered to 1/2" at the tips. By the time it takes shape, it will be a bit narrower at the fades and I will narrow the tips as much as I can. From the hackerry bows I have made in the past, wider is better - much less set. But then again, maybe my tillering just sucks! ;D
What about you for dimensions?
Mitch
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Mitch, the dimenssions are 64" ttt 1 5/8 to mid limb(14") taper to 1/2" tips. This is my first go at hackberry
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looks like some beautiful bows shaping up here. ;D
Mitch, that is a nice shop. I have to work outdoors to get that good of lighting and as you know there's no outdoor work being done today.
I did get 2 layers of sinew on the bl. Thought I had it close in tiller with the long string but after the sinew began to dry it is showing a lot more reflex in what was to be the top limb. I'll have to wait quite awhile to check that out and may need to retiller or switch top to bottom.
CBG your trilam looks like it could be a real shooter.
This thread is so huge I'm having a hard time keeping up.
if anyone has questions that haven't been answered already, shoot me a PM and I'll try to give or find you the answers.
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Man you all are flat getin after it .......I have to agree with Fred if I missed any ? please let me know as well.
In case any of you missed it, this is how these trades was meant to be, and all of ya make me really proud to just be a part of this.....what a damned fine bunch of people 8) 8) 8)
Plan B, Here in the Great Lakes the NA used fish skin glue....also perch (and/or Pike) but they included the perch roe. You might want to look into that as well......some of their petyrogliphs are still bright red on the rock faces of cliffs exposed to Lake Superior for hundreds of years.
Glad that worked for you Drewster
Back to belly cracks in or near the tips that are glued and clamped have never caused me any further issues.....just dont try to heat or steam bends into after the glue....wont hurt but you will get to do it a second time.....ya dont know how I found that out either >:D
rich
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Glad that worked for you Drewster
Rich, prior to your post about steaming, I would have probably steamed the handle for 45 minutes......obviously NO NEED TO. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. The narrow section in the handle is a good inch wide and 2" thick. Would you have steamed it less time? Drew
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Those look good kid...I miss that poor man's shrimp.
I'm sure we can collectively get you straightened out mud....well the bow anyway ;) post some pictures of your layout and the grain orientation you mentioned.
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Rich, people around the world seem to think alike -- re. perch glue. This should be interesting! Hmmmm what about fresh sturgeon roe? :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Re. short time handle steaming, reaally looking forward to trying that.
CabinetBowguy, Drewster mwosborn, bows look great guys!
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Drew,
Depends how it "felt to you" when you did the bend. If went right to shape like a wet noodle then next time I would try 8min. I do my bends by hand just for that reason. I really try to steam for only as long as necessary and no more......likewise if you steam for a period of time and as you make the bend and feel some significant resistance ....then stop and pop it in for a couple min. more. I look for it to "yield" not real super easy or halfway hard. Guess thats about the beast I can describe it.
AJ, you got that right
PlanB, you got too much free time brother >:D
rich
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Stuck - I have a couple of sanders. I was talking about a drum sander that would allow me to sand lamination down to a very specific thickness or taper a lamination from one end to the other. Thanks!
Have seen home-made jigs that allow a drum sanding attachment in a drill to run as a thicknesses, will try and find plans if ur interested?
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Thanks! Gutshot hooked me up with a jig idea for my ridgid oscillating sander - we will see how that works.
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guys all bows are looking good.
Ive been talking to Rich and I have switched my BL from a rigid handle to a bendy. First time I've tried making one. But Rich walked me through on the lay out of the handle. All heat treating is done , I have got my string alignment good finally. So now its tiller time! Thanks Rich
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Gutshot, looks real good sir. I especially like the character of the back of the bow.....sweet.
rich
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Gutshot - that bow is looking good. I've seen pics of several bendy bows Rich has made - they all look great. He knows what he is doing!
Why don't you pan up with your camera and give us a shot of those critters hanging on the wall!!
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OK - been wanting to try and build a jig to grind lams using one of my sanders. Paul (Gutshot) gave me some suggestions so I went ahead and worked a little bit this afternoon. The aluminum angle is bolted on one end and adjustable on the other. Haven't tried it out yet, but I think it will work! Maybe? :-\
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That's looks great gut....has lots of character likes its creator! :P
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Mitch, Gutshot....now that is slicker than snot on a doorknob 8) 8)
rich
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Hey you got to be creative when you need to drum sand. It's slow but works good.
Mitch I like that yours is a belt sander.
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If plan b gets a decent glue out of those skins, I'll try a batch with roe in it with my next catch. That's the part I really don't like to discard. 1000's of potential meals that never got to be. My grandmother used to eat it battered and fried. That I won't do while other food is still available. I wonder if it will make my bow smell fishy?
It's too late on this round. It's too warm and they're in the trash outside. I'm not going to be opening that lid again. It was starting to turn a little this afternoon, but bearable.
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Fred if I may make a suggestion that might help you keep your sanity. You should start another thread for Q&A and this one can be for progress pics and small talk. That way questions don't get missed. It is hard to keep up with all the posts.
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Lots of of great looking work getting done. Went to bed for a few hours today ( working nights) and when I get up I'm three pages behind.
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Mitch. I don't think you want to see those small critters on my wall. Every body has bigger deer than me. I do my own taxidermy thats why There up on the wall
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Mitch I like that thickness sander!
Dakota, Rich, I was kiddin' about the caviar. Think I'll "stick" with the straight skin glue. :laugh: Dakota you were a brave man retrieving those used perch! :)
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Hey people,
I been away but now I'm back. Dang you guys are movin fast here!
I didn't get any scraping done but it was a needed experience gong back to the roots but that's another story.
Got 2 osage in the works and a lilac on reserve and 2 broken cameras so I wll get beter with a phone now :)
Lot of great lookin work goin on here.
AWESOME!!
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Started setting up to do some tip overlays...gonna use purple heart and some cow horn I got at the pet store. I started out by slightly taking down the tip to accept the overlay. Very important to keep it nice and flat. I use the over lay with some sandpaper to do the final flattening. I pretapered the horn to save myself some work. Gonna glue up tonight....and I might get after them later for finishing.
Maybe some patience will prevail ay B? I have very limited amounts!
(http://i.imgur.com/NZniNSK.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/kY9voE1.jpg?1)
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You're doing a fine job ajooter!
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I like the dark finish you put on that first bow...can't wait to see it finished out. That's my least favorite part is putting finish on a bow...takes too long!
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Ajooter
Way to use your resources on getting cow horn. Hadn't thought of the pet store. Thanks I will check my local pet store out sometime and see what they got
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Much cheaper then antler...DON'T buy that at the pet store!! You will be broke...crazy how expensive that stuff is. The only thing about horn and antler is it stinks to high heavens shaping and sanding it. I wear a half face respirator with particulate cartridges. Stuff is nasty!
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Thanks PlanB - I went ahead and tried it out...didn't work too bad. As gutshot warned me, it will be slow going. It was! :laugh: I had to take just a tiny bit at a time and run it through several times at each thickness. It did sand to a pretty good uniform thickness. The backing is at 1/8". I checked it in several places and they all read 1/8". But, if you run your finger along the length you can feel some very very very slight dips or humps. The core and belly are at 5/16".
Just have to figure out how I am going to taper the core lam...that will have to wait until tomorrow. Looks like I will have time - another snow day - there ain't nothing moving until the wind goes down and the snow plows can get out. There is a 5 foot drift across my driveway and even bigger ones on the streets! :o
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Mr B, so was I ...just my wierd sense of humor sir.
Mitch, Are you aware that you can cut thickness tapers on a table saw? they will come out so you mayonly need 1 or 2 passed with your thickness sander.....or if ya use a finish (fine tooth) blade no sanding at all? For what it is worth....we are gettin hammered up here as well we are falling freezing rain, snow, white-outs, and heavy wind all at the same time ...aint it great >:D
Mr. DuBois, dont even blink around these fellas....you'll miss something. This is outstanding 8) 8) 8)
Dakota, around these parts the old-timers (like me) would butter fry the eggs till semi crispy and the small kids ate those cause they taste pretty much like perch but the momma's KNEW for a fact wasn't no bones, the lady's really worry about that.
AJ, did you happen to see the hoofs? they sell them as well and they are hollow, triangular in section, and actually respond real well to reshape with steam....and there are as many colors as bone.
rich
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Rich I like a weird sense of humor! Mitch, along with Rich"s suggestion of the table saw, one way of cutting long tapers is to temporarily attach the lam to another board that is much thicker and tapered, or padded out to the taper. then you can run both against a fence on the saw and/or sander, and separate afterward. Another way is a shooting board and plane.
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wow you guys are moving fast looking like the trade will be done by the start of summer
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Some of you are way ahead of schedule and these bows are looking great. Keep up the good work.
I on the other hand along with many others are just getting the feel for things and slower from the starting gate.
I know that some have just gotten staves and need to catch up. For everyone still laying out their bows let's try to get started by this weekend.
As soon as I get my morning coffee down(yes, I slept in late) I'm going to try to clear a path to my outdoor work station through the snow. This blizzard left about 5" drifts just outside my back door.
I knew I should have installed that snow fence before winter.
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This is a tip made from a chew hoof. You have to rifle through the box to find the nicely colored ones but they turn out like agate. I use the corners of the hoof, it's thicker there. They stink like horn.
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Plan A bow has turned out under draw weight after shooting @ min draw length, and don't want to send it. So out with the plan B stave (which is actually even nicer than Plan A was).
This one is wider (2-1/4" vs 1-5/8") and I'm going to line out for a 2" width. It looks absolutely clear so far, but haven't got the bark off yet. Plenty of length (81") to move things around on and about 4" reflex overall. Also black birch.
So back to square one!
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We all find ourselves back to square one. No matter if the last attempt was a success or failure, we always go back to the beginning. Feels like home after a while.
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That tip looks great DC gonna have to try that!!
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Persistence is the key to success PlanB. Keep it going. We've all been there.
Great looking tip overlay DC. I'll have to keep my eyes open in the pet stores. I have some extra deer antlers if anyone needs some pieces for overlays. I'll be glad to share. Send me a PM.
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Well fellas here's my progress so far..... The award bow is finished and waiting for skins, This is the first of my 2 trade bows...ready for color and string fitting....also have the rawhide string twisted up for the quiver. So here is the first trade bow so far
rich
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OH cool Rich. Someone is going to be a "happy camper" with that bow!
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Thanks Drew, sure hope so....my bows are pretty plain
rich
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DC - those tips look great. I might have to give that a try!
Rich - cool looking bow. Thanks for the suggestions! I cut those lams on my band saw and was a little more conservative than I needed to be. Next time I will cut them a little closer to what I need. :-[ Experience is a great teacher.
I like D. Kids idea on a new thread for questions about the bows.
Been out scooping snow all morning - no time for working on bows!
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mwosborn:
I was looking at trilams last night and I saw most people tapered the core but no one said why. Why you taper the core?
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Wow Rich, thats one helluva piece of work there. Someone's gonna lose their mind when they get that. DC sweet tips, prolly gonna steal that idea too. Got my hackberry very close to long string tiller. Put er back in the caul last nite for another heat treatment.
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Great, Rich! I envy whoever gets that Penobscot. I've always been curious about native bows from my region, and that design is and eastern Abenaki neighbor. It would be Cowasuck Abenaki, here. Are here any records of bows for them?
Sleek Drewster, thanks! (I'm actually glad to be building with everybody again. Might slow down just to enjoy it longer...)
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Nice lookin stave, planB. are you going to go with that natural reflex? it looks about as even as it gets.
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Dakota, I am pondering your suggestion. Thank you!! We'll see how it goes down the stretch. It looks as though right now the questions have been answered if not by someone else then by me with what knowledge I have.
DC, fine looking tips!! Now to show my ignorance. Whats a chew hoof?
half eye, your work absolutely amazes me.
The top limb on this black walnut is 1" longer and I thought the tiller on the long string looked good. After 2 layers of sinew and 2 days the top limb is showing far more reflex than the bottom. Not sure what to do about it at this stage and will have to wait a few months to tell. Possibly it will surprise me and still work out with some scraping. Too late to do anything about it now unless one of you has a suggestion.
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They are cow(I think) hooves that are cleaned up and sold at pet stores. If you have an indoor dog don't give it one of these. They stink real bad when you work them. They stink even worse after adog has chewed on them for a while.
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Fred - that did take quite a bit of reflex didn't it!!
jandersson - I am new to trilams so most likely not the person to ask. But, tapering the lam prior to glue up helps in the tillering process. It is a bit like tillering before it is glued. Those that make FG bows taper before glue up as there is no removing material afterwards. I plan on tapering at a rate of about .003"/inch. (core only)
Mitch
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Willie, one end twists a little and reflexes more than the other, so I'm thinking cut that end short Hard to tell from the picture.
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Well... I finally got my staves in from Half Eye... Of course they look great.
Anywho, I am including a couple pictures of the one for the trade. The stave is Ironwood (HHB). I have a few questions for you guys...
How wide should the limbs be, and how exactly should I taper them? I believe the tips on most be is are normally about 3/4, right? Should I go in a straight line from the (fades??), to the tips... Or should I go out a little ways and then angle towards the tips?
About what thickness should my limbs be? They appear to be 5/8-3/4 (give or take a little) right now.
Also... It has some natural recurve that seems to be pretty even. Should I do anything else to it? Recurve the tips? Or just leave as is?
I am open to ANY suggestions. Once I figure out what exactly I'm going to do, I will get to work...
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160203_152722_zpscguv1vam.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160203_152722_zpscguv1vam.jpg.html)
The other picture will be in a different post. :D
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(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160203_160432_zpsxcztezs9.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160203_160432_zpsxcztezs9.jpg.html)
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Hey David, glad to see you rec'd the staves from Rich. I've never worked hhb but these others will chime in. Half eye is the hhb wizard in my book.
Thrilled to see you getting started and will follow along. I'm going to have to trade Rich some osage and try hhb.
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David - I have not tried HHB yet either. From what I hear, it can handle various designs. Looks like Rich has it roughed out to approximate dimensions. The easiest (IMO) might be a pyramid design. Taper straight from the fades to the tips. Not sure how wide for HHB, but I would guess 1.5 to 1.75" at the fade and .5" at the tips for a start. How long you going to make it?
Mitch
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David. Not for sure on HHB but a good rule of thumb I go by on any wood, from the fades I like to go 12-14 inches down parallel at 2" wide then taper to my knocks @ 1/2" wide. Also you need to draw a center line through your bow. The reflex looks good. and make it long you can always take wood off but can't put it back on. Have fun you will do good
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David,
First off I left you enough wood to make about anything ya want. Something to consider is if you put the limb tips on a couple 2x4 (the way it is right now) you can probably stand on that thing and not touch the floor >:D
As to layout if you taper from fades to tips you basically have a pyramid design (means very little thickness taper.....If you go out some then taper you will be making an American flatbow.
It does not require hardly any HHB to make good weight so you are going to need and take a bunch off....(it does work well with hand tools however) If your desired weight is around 50-55# you will not need more than 1-1/2" wide limbs and they will be well less that 1/2 thick just as an example.
The length is also more than you need. If you needed say 28" draw just use it the way it is and have a little leeway. One other thing....I do not heat treat but have friends who have heat-treated HHB bows (wood same as yours) and they said it responded very well to that method. As for recurves HHB steams very well.
rich
Maybe some of these guys will suggest a design that is ideal for what you have in mind....OH ya you can make any type tips you want and as skinny as you want.....that is some very tough wood.
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Rich, since you've seen and handles the stave how straight was the grain?
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David, that is a nice looking hhb stave. Have fun with it. Sounds like Rich gave some good advice.
I came home today to find the new Primitive Archer magazine. I probably won't get much done on my trade bow tonight. :D
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I think I'm going to taper straight from the fades to the tips.
How far should the string knocks be from the tips? I have heard 1/2".
Thanks for the info so far!
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Fred, that piece of ironwood and the other 3 as well have very straight grain without defects at all, but the bow rough out is as straight grained as a taught sting 8) 8)
PlanB....Apparently I forgot to hit "post" when I answered you ( of course it might be a vast right-wing conspiracy) na, just sender stupidity >:D I have not specifically studied these bows and variants....but have run into the general "white history" take in the museum specimens. By that I mean the Abenaki (like most NA tribes/bands) are lumped into a general pile without regard to any differentiation. There is also the matter of some specimens being attributed in error.....when the dust settles here I plan on doing more in-depth research.
rich
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David,
If you are planning to make "regular" string knocks (filed in on the edges and belly) or "pin" knocks then 1/2" will be good to start.
As a starting point, make your centerline down the long axis, draw in your pyramid tapers and grip area.....then cut out your front profile ya just drew.....when ya get that done come back and I'll give a tip or two on laying out your thickness profile.
rich
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That ironwood of Rich's is excellent David. I've had the pleasure of working some of recently and was really impressed with the stuff. As said you can go with just about any design with that wood and count on it to do well.
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Ok , instead of fluppin thru 55 pages, wanted to know who was ordering goat rawhide from moscow hide and fur? Just wanna know how u order it. Thanx.
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Thanks HE PLAN B has arrived will draw the bark and sap wood off this weekend.
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David E
I met a guy named Greg last year at moontree get together he gave me this ruler I wish I had one to give you and every body else. So here is a pic maybe you can print a ruler off on paper then write everything else in. I use it on every bow I make. And you might be able to find it on the interweb. That pic is awful anybody who wants a good pic pm me with a email. Thanks
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Looks like Ferret's bow layout ruler. I have several that MoBow made available at 2014 MoJam. Yep, purty handy!
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^^ That is really cool!
On the handle... Should I just kind of round it off, or do a bunch of shaping? I don't think there isenough wood to do much with.
Thanks for the help. I'm going out in just a minute to lay out the limbs, I'll let you know what happens... :)
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Yep, Ferrets floppy rule. I copied one and keep misplacing it. A must have.
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David, After you draw in your centerline.....measure 3/4" on @ side at the fades and 1/4" to 3/8" @ side at the tip and draw a straight line taper between the two of 'em. I made that grip rough-out so you can smooth off the sides and then shape the fades as you go on to your limb thickness. You can then have the room to wrap the grip without it being too large....with or without an arrow rest. I know who who your building for so if ya get the chance look up some of his bows and get an idea what ya want to do from there....ok?
One more, the grip as is will not bend on a 100 pound bow they are deceptive
rich
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Can't wait to get my hands on some hhb....gonna cut some thus year for sure! Looks like that will make a nice bow David.
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Half eye, did you say your bows are "pretty plain"?
I'll go with the pretty part anyway.
Gutshot: you lucky dog!! got a he stave to work on. Now don't you stay up too late messin with that thing!
I will never catch up with the progress here so I better just go from here.
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Or is it David with the HHB from half eye?
Or both?
:-\ :-[
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Dubois
Osage from HE and by the looks of it I'm gonna have fun this weekend working it down. Already got a planB for this one and I hope planA and PlanB both work out. Yee-Haa
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Marco, you're doing fine. I have my give away bow sinewed because it takes so long to dry. My trade bow is not even laid out yet. Waiting for the weather to turn.
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Ok every body talk to me should I take the knot out? it's at mid limb and I can keep my width. The side pic shows the knot isn't showing on the side but it will add 3/8" to the mid limb which I don't think will hurt. So whatcha think
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Knots on the edge are a p.i.t.a. I would decide based upon the looks of the grain around the knot. Is it pretty clean with no violations? Is there good grain on the outside of the knot to the edge? Generally, I like to leave them if this is the case. Good luck with it either way!
Mitch
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gutshot, if that is osage I really aint comfortable saying....with Ironwood I'd leave it be. You got more experience with osage than I do. Probably your first instinct is probably the right one, just from experience.
rich
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By that I mean the Abenaki (like most NA tribes/bands) are lumped into a general pile without regard to any differentiation. There is also the matter of some specimens being attributed in error.....when the dust settles here I plan on doing more in-depth research.
rich
That's great Rich, I'd love to hear anything you find interesting when you do. As I understand it, the Sudbury bow might be the closest thing I can find, for the time being. A few weeks ago I found a very short video of it at the Harvard Peabody museum, but it's impossible to see the shape of it from that. Weird video angles and closeups.
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Gutshot, only because you asked for "everybody" to say..... I'd leave it. I'd figure more wood if it's there than if it isn't, and ther'll just be half a grain swirl left at the edge if taken out. But take anything I say with a grain of salt. Nah, a spoon full.
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Half Eye it's Black locus
I believe I will leave the knot it runs at a angle and comes out the belly 1/2" from the edge.
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I forgot to take pictues...
Buuuuut, I got the limbs shaped. I also smoothed out the fades a little bit. Hopefully I'll get some more done tomorrow. I have been working on our beehives and bows at the same time. Hahaha.
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So much good info in this thread!
Plan B and David: You guys got some sweet staves to work on, I'm jealous.
ajooter: That handle of yours is a trip. Nice work!
half eye: Mighty fine sticks! You making three bows total?
Seeing the trilams here I think that is gonna be my plan B, I don't have access to staves but I got boards. I do wonder where the taper of the core begins, where the riser ends towards the tips? Are there any good build a longs?
My update:
I've had trouble bending the lilac, this time I did the whole limb though. I know, it's a pretty ghetto set up! But this time I got a better result. What do you guys think of the line up?
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMGP1987.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMGP1987.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMGP1992.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMGP1992.jpg.html)
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Looks a lot better jandersson!
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following along with the fun. wish I had the time to commit to the party
never did find a good picture of the sudbury, when I built on a few years ago
but I did find this pic in Native American Bows by T.M. Hamilton, not too long ago.
I have it in a higher rez, and if anyone wants a copy, just PM
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Worked on layout tonight. I tried the trick that Otter showed for layout of a pyramid, and it works very well. I used craft paper because that is what I had, so the picture doesn't show up great. I marked the center trying to follow the grain, and then marked the exact pyramid. There are a few spots on the edge with small knots so I will have to adjust the layout lines around those spots. Almost ready to start roughing out... hatchet and drawknife for me, would love to have a bandsaw.
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Nice curves Loope!
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Yes, currrvy! I hope this one works out, I love the look of this stave. I've got about 10 bows under my belt, only three are staves, so I am going slow and careful.
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^^^That is the only way it should be done. Impatient people tend to find a different hobby.
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I changed my lineup a bit.
From top to bottomt in order of current favorite:
Rock Elm- dry heat straightened, currently floor tillering
HHB- handle roughed in, mollie tips are next
spalted hazel- was my #1 but I'm liking the rock elm, so it's been collecting dust
Top secret- I forgot I had this. It's my first attempt at a decrowned stave. I didn't have the know how to deal with it when I acquired it. I hope I do now. We shall see.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2793_zpsetyv8ijo.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2792_zps7gsts9lp.jpg)
It's hard to keep up with all you power tool users. Boy do my arms feel like jello. It's totally worth it though.
Oh and I found some osage today. In my area that's not a common occurrence. Now I just have to find out if I can cut it. I suppose if I waited for a few months it would fall in the creek and wash out into the lake, but who knows where it would wash back up. It did give me the idea to check the beaches for that very thing. All of the osage I've found here has been close to a creek. That's the main way the fruit is distributed now-a-days, since mammoths and giants sloths went extinct.
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Gutshot.... I would probably leave that knot in.
jandersson.... Looks like you have it under control.
Loope....... Layout looking good. I've been looking for a good redbud to cut for several years now. Been avoiding the snakey ones so I'm watching this one closely.
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Loope, your snakey layout shows you cutting straight through a knot. Do you want to go around it maybe?
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Worked on layout tonight. I tried the trick that Otter showed for layout of a pyramid, and it works very well. I used craft paper because that is what I had, so the picture doesn't show up great. I marked the center trying to follow the grain, and then marked the exact pyramid. There are a few spots on the edge with small knots so I will have to adjust the layout lines around those spots. Almost ready to start roughing out... hatchet and drawknife for me, would love to have a bandsaw.
Hey Loope, that's a sexy stave! What wood is that again? I say hatchet is the way to go. I love how it keeps me true to the grain as I am hackin out the edges. I just gotta remember to take it slow and sometimes flip stave end for end to prevent tearing out too much.
Janderson: you are really taming that lilac, it looks real good to me. Say, what side do you need the arrow to pass on anyway >:D?. How is the side profile looking for you?
PS: you have a nice kitchen (until your wife evicts you) >:D You ever get drip stains on the counters from the steaming?
DK: that rock elm is beautiful. gonna look sweet with the color contrasts comin out of that handle, but then same with the hazel. I don't see how you could go wrong wth any of them!
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Loope, your snakey layout shows you cutting straight through a knot. Do you want to go around it maybe?
+1
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Loope, your snakey layout shows you cutting straight through a knot. Do you want to go around it maybe?
+1
There are a few spots on the edge with small knots so I will have to adjust the layout lines around those spots.
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Sweet Jesus.....a fella goes to bed and gets up feeling like he done something wrong >:D >:D >:D
David, love your get up and go, but try not to get way ahead of yourself. It will happen (the bow will get done) and it would be better if ya wound up with 3 more sticks to play with than having to start over .....damned I sound like a old man, eh?
Mr Andersson... that set up looks good to me.....got the job done, no?
Looope, that's gonna be a looker when ya get 'er done.....you got a pair my friend
Mr. Kid.....that stave stash is pure eye candy right there
Man this trade is rockin, even got the old man all excited and that aint happened for awhile now. I am lovin this stuff.
rich
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I managed to do a little work on my BL last night. I just about have the limbs evened up and have it at a higher brace. It looks much better now. I have drawn it to 16 inches so far so it is getting close. Time for. Me to slow down and go very careful.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/F9A856A7-0EF6-4ABA-94C9-4A6048EA6CB8_zpsebyvpm0b.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/F9A856A7-0EF6-4ABA-94C9-4A6048EA6CB8_zpsebyvpm0b.jpg.html)
Loope, that stave sure is looking nice.
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Swampman....that looks REAL close.....can ya feel that baby breathin down your neck? 8)
rich
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Man this trade is rockin, even got the old man all excited and that aint happened for awhile now. I am lovin this stuff.
That's exactly how I'm feeling about Rich! This trade has got me checking the site again multiple times a day. It's making things fun again.
Tattoo Dave
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Absolutely sir !!!
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Rich those bows are looking good
Loope that is one snakey stave. That will be fun to scrape down to bow shape
DKID those are some nice staves
Fred sorry don't know nothing about sinueing besides it threw a lot of reflex in that bow
Everybody else. I'm enjoying reading and trying to keep up. But it's time for me to slow way down. I will post some pics this weekend when I get some filleting done.
Keep the wood a flying !!!
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Fred
I've only done a couple sinew backed bows so my suggestions/questions haven't been tried and may not be good advice at all. ;D
Can you just build an extra layer on one limb? Maybe shave just that limb down a little first as well. Or... Could the weaker limb be propped up for the next application? As previously stated I have no idea if these are viable options, but seemed like possible solutions.
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Swampman that BL IS LOOKIN GOOD.
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Swampman that IS pretty!
willie, thanks!
Everybody, too many names to count for sayin' you all are making this a terrific group project.
ps. I'm one of the impatient ones, now forcing myself to go slow on my plan B bow.
Lesseee now uhhhhhh, fingers tapping, pacing back and forth, looking for the tenth time this morning at that stave. No. nope. nope. wait for it.
Aaaahhhh the heck with it, I can always build a plan C...........
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OK, so I straightened the stave again, boiling ti first then hitting it with dry heat
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/02/image.jpeg)
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/02/image1.jpeg)
then while it was straight, roughed out the handle and cut it in half, so now if everything drops out of square I can adjust the mating surfaces of the joint, which I'll line with leather to make up the width of the saw kerf and which should also act as a high friction surface.
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/02/image3.jpeg)
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/02/image2.jpeg)
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The trilam is up and shooting time for a very light final sand then a nice glossy finish, which means its time to start on plan b an osage elb
As being new to the forum eveyone is very welcoming, this is one enjoyable trade !!
I would love to have every ones thoughts on tiller on this guy hickory backed, cherry core, osage belly its pushing a 850 grain hickory 135fps so not to bad in my oppion :)
Jason
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Stuck.....that's lookin real good sir
Cabinet....That speed with that weight arrow is a deer killer if this old man ever seen one....That tiller looks real good to. This is how these baby's are supposed to be....they are great in my opinion too
rich
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CBG it looks bad close if you get your camera guy to line your riser up with the metal ribs on the building then come to full draw and take a pic. I hope that's clear as mud. Haha then we can see the tiller with the lines on the metal
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850 grain arrow at 135 fps.... Dude thats power.
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How do you guys lay out your limb thickness? I have the pyramid cut out, but now I need to thin them up. Is there a certain tool you use for thinning then down?
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David, Gordon's build along is a really great help at this stage of a stave bow. There are others, too. It's just the one I remember most easily:
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,53195.0.html
And since it's a pyramid bow, Bubby's board bow might be helpful, too:
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html
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Cool. I will check those out.
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David
I will have some how to photos up within the hour sir.
rich
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How do you guys lay out your limb thickness? I have the pyramid cut out, but now I need to thin them up. Is there a certain tool you use for thinning then down?
I use a ruler and measure down from back 1/2 down and mark it all The way down from the end of the fades to the tips every 1/2 " then I connect the dots (both sides) your doing a good job David. Main thing be patient and take your time. I'm still making mistakes do to getting in a hurry!
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DuBois: No stains yet just cracked the counter top clamping boards and bows on to it >:D Goal is to get it on the tree today and get some bend to it.
halfeye: True, it worked though.
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Mr. Ewing,
Here is how I start the limb thinning....I do it this way so everything stays even and gives a nice bend. By repeating this you can go from very heavy to just right and usually will have no stiff spots or hinges in the bends.
At 1-1/2" wide I would start by making a 1/2" line down from the back....and on all 4 sides of the limbs.....I use the "finger guide" method shown in pics 1 and 2.....then draw a centerline (rather more like sketch it in) now rasp from the edge lines into the centerline untill you have a "peak" running down the belly. You can now check the floor tiller to get a sense of how strong the bow is.....if it's too strong then rasp down the peak to flat limbs and check again.......if still too heavy then start over by making new side lines and starting all over......when you are close go to the scraper and work the belly into a shallow oval to flat profile....several pics from diff angles to illustrate the sidewalls and ridge.
If I screwed up on the explanation please let me know....see if I can clear it up.
rich
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last pic
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That makes sense! Thanks!
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I like the centerline, even bevel and using the round off to check stiffness ideas, Rich. I'm going to use those.
Trimmed the stave down and now trying the get the bark off. Last time it popped off, but not this time. Black birch bark is thick and hard.....I really need to make myself a shaving horse at some point..
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Fellas,
Here is the quiver I made as a give-away for members of this trade. It is all done (note: the thunderbird and underwater panther need to have their pupils and thunder and lightening bolts painted in.....) The strap is twisted raw-hide, the stiffening rod is tied in with raw-hide. The underwater panther is painted on a "medallion" which is sewed to the quiver. The hide is a very old fawn hide and is quite thin, and while usable will have to have careful handling....or at least not rough-handling.
Enjoy the pics and I hope you fellas like it. There are 2 sets of pics
rich
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rest of the pics
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Sweet half eye! You and Fred are spoiling the traders this year!
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Oh wow! That is a beautiful quiver!
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Are you kidding me with that quiver Rich?!?! That's some fine work sir. Beautiful piece.
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Your a great inspiration Rich,,, awesome quiver as well! I am busy scraping/sanding on my hickory curve and will have pics up in a few days. Great progress everyone-Hammertime
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Didn't get much progress today but did get a little done.( People kept showing up with things for me to work on)
I got one limb on the vine maple bending fairly even but still way too stiff and other limb just starting to move. It has one limb that I can see is going to give my eyes fits while tillering.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160204_165337062.jpg)
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Turtle, looks like one of mine....aint they a hoot >:D >:D
rich
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Rich, that quiver is great. Very nice work.
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Rich your magical how did you turn that pink puppy into a real dog in your demo pics of laying a bow out
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Dang Rich that quiver is awsome!!!!!!
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Thanks swampman.....the Danzen Bar arrows (they stay with me >:D) do make it look nice
rich
Just seen your post Mr. Gutshot.......I'll have you to know that Miss Keika does pretty much what ever she wishes and like all spoiled kids she gets toys out but not so good at puttin them back >:D
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all i could think of today was that Osage stave i got from Half Eye, i got home from work and started hatcheting away then roughed out a ring to see what I had to play with. My thoughts were wow thanks Rich just what I needed character! OK rough layout this bow will be hopefully 64" with a forward offset handle I'm going to hopefully drop 6 rings coming down my fades to the limbs this by measurement about 3/8" drop I'm looking at leaving the 6 rings high on my tips for a natural tip overlays. I'm gonna need alot of luck on my side never done nothing like i just explained.
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Rich, that quiver is sweet. You do fine work. Someone is going to be a proud owner. Thanks for all your time and help with this trade.
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For the good management and this fine group right here......it is truly my pleasure.
rich
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Turtle, looks like one of mine....aint they a hoot >:D >:D
rich
Not sure if HOOT is the exact word I would use. ::)
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I didn't get anything done this last couple days. Been all over the place and had to build a gate today. I go back to work Friday Saturday and Sunday so I won't be back at it till Monday and Tuesday. I've got a few pics to post so I can get y'alls opinions but I will do that tomorrow.
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Man the weather is warming up, so I'll be in the shop. Dug out my last/best stave from the Osage I cut a few miles from my house in ny. Was gonna save her for my personal rig but it's only wood right? And id rather have someone else share in my story. The farmer will get a kick out of it.
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i steamed my osage stave pretty fla ;Dt i might add some reflex later after i get it bending a bit more. how long should i wait now that its been steamed?
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Very cool quiver Rich - you done well!
That one limb on the vine maple does look like a challenge Turtle - good luck!
Gutshot - I am not smart enough to understand your plan! :-[ I might need sketches and diagrams! :laugh: It does have some character to it though - enjoy!
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Rich, that is one fine quiver!! How do you keep up with all you got going man! And you may have had a lttle snow?
Thanks Turtle for showing me what I missed. Loope has them knots in hand better than I have hold of what's gong on here :-\
Gut: that is lookin cool.
So many working on great things I can't keep up.
I gotta get away from the trading post so I can focus on this more.
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Gutshot: I saw Simson (Simon?) do that on one of his Osage bows, go for it. Good luck!
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Well I finally finished shaping one of my nocks...been busy lately haven't had as much time. I'm gluing up the second nock tonight.
I got a package in the mail today. And my gf made what will probably be her only contribution to the trade ;) Other then putting up with me working on bows all the time.
(http://i.imgur.com/Aoh2mAN.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/FZCoNeF.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/NFXRQgx.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/Ch0MEqX.jpg?1)
Offer still stands....anybody who needs some rawhide speak up!
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Dylan, give it plenty of time. Don't rush it. Sometimes you have to find a different project to take your mind somewhere else for a short while. I believe in letting it regain it's composure for a few days and with steam I'd wait even longer. Keep it in a controlled environment. Weigh it everyday and see what that tells you.
Rich the quiver is amazing. That would hang on my living room wall!!!
ajooter, that's a nice hide and looks huge. What was it?
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Offer still stands....anybody who needs some rawhide speak up!
I could use a small amount. Let me know what you need!
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Let me know how wide and how long and I'll hook ya up Tim! I don't need anything in return. Shoot me your address via pm.
Fred it's goat rawhide. It's really nice to work with. I soak the whole hide and then cut it into strips.
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How do you know when the bow is ready for the tillering tree? I'm aiming for about 50 lbs. I don't have a clue how much the limbs should bend when I push on them. They are some what flexible, in my opinion anyway. I don't really have anything to go off of.
Once again I forgot to take pictures. Hahaha. I'll get you guys some tomorrow.
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David,
are you familiar with the "push-pull" method of stringing a bow? If so do that just a little bit to test for relative power. You can put it on the long string now....but be real careful that you do 2 things and I do mean watch BOTH of 'em.....Pull just enough to see if both limbs look like they are pretty even.....
if they are not then stop and make them more even.....when they are then put your scale on and pull it to 40 pounds and see where you hit that weight....if it hits 40 at about say 8-10 inches you are still heavy but close enough to go to your scraper......
When I say long string I define that as JUST as long as the bow (not real sloppy) I know it's the "exciting time" right now because you want to see her bend.....please dont do that you only have to pull it one time a little to far and ya got a kids bow EVERYTIME.
Here is your mantra.....are they even? where do they hit 40, are the even, where do they hit 40......keep that up till you are about 6 inches short of full draw.....then are they even, where does it hit 50 ....are they even and where do they hit 50....until you are there.
Make sure the limbs are real close to bending the same first, then pull and NEVER go past intended draw weight........the more bows you make the more the urge to just pull her back is gonna creep in.....stick to the mantra. Also, once you are back to about 6-8 inches of draw then be sure to shorten your string to "low brace" before you carry on......at about 14" you should be able to safely brace it.
Each and every time you shorten that string you better be damned sure you have nice even bends in the limbs....if not then get 'em even FIRST.. I'm not trying to be a smart ass....it just that there is a certain process to tillering, if you follow the mantra you wont have any big problems.....when ya get over confident (like I still do at times) something will come back to bite you and ya got either a kids bow or a broken bow.
Oh ya......quit forgettin the pics man cause you know us hill-billy's like our pics >:D >:D >:D
rich
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Rich, thanks for that info on tillering. I'm going to change my method of tillering and give yours a try because I've made more kid bows than good bows. Thanks again And David keep asking those ?'s and you will make a awesome bow.
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David,
are you familiar with the "push-pull" method of stringing a bow? If so do that just a little bit to test for relative power. You can put it on the long string now....but be real careful that you do 2 things and I do mean watch BOTH of 'em.....Pull just enough to see if both limbs look like they are pretty even.....
if they are not then stop and make them more even.....when they are then put your scale on and pull it to 40 pounds and see where you hit that weight....if it hits 40 at about say 8-10 inches you are still heavy but close enough to go to your scraper......
When I say long string I define that as JUST as long as the bow (not real sloppy) I know it's the "exciting time" right now because you want to see her bend.....please dont do that you only have to pull it one time a little to far and ya got a kids bow EVERYTIME.
Here is your mantra.....are they even? where do they hit 40, are the even, where do they hit 40......keep that up till you are about 6 inches short of full draw.....then are they even, where does it hit 50 ....are they even and where do they hit 50....until you are there.
Make sure the limbs are real close to bending the same first, then pull and NEVER go past intended draw weight........the more bows you make the more the urge to just pull her back is gonna creep in.....stick to the mantra. Also, once you are back to about 6-8 inches of draw then be sure to shorten your string to "low brace" before you carry on......at about 14" you should be able to safely brace it.
Each and every time you shorten that string you better be damned sure you have nice even bends in the limbs....if not then get 'em even FIRST.. I'm not trying to be a smart ass....it just that there is a certain process to tillering, if you follow the mantra you wont have any big problems.....when ya get over confident (like I still do at times) something will come back to bite you and ya got either a kids bow or a broken bow.
Oh ya......quit forgettin the pics man cause you know us hill-billy's like our pics >:D >:D >:D
rich
Oh, that explains Sooo much about where I've been going wrong. Awesome post, thank you !! :)
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David:
Listen to half eye :) That is good advice.
And I don't know what tillering setup you have but if you're up close to the bow when you're pulling the string it can be difficult to see how it bends. See if someone can snap a picture while you're pulling the string it that you can look at , it really helped me to get some perspective.
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I like your method Rich, and I'm going to change to that this time. Keep writing this stuff! Also, like everybody else, said, the person who gets that quiver is a lucky so and so!
I have only one little thing to contribute, and maybe it's just me.... sometimes when I had some local weirdness in a couple character bows I tried, and it was hard to tell if there was hinging, I found that exercising the bow on the tiller tree and looking carefully at the limbs moving helped me see how it was bending all along better than I could judge by just holding it in one position and looking. The movement showed the bending part of the limb in action. It also helped when one limb had more deflex near the handle than the other. When it was stationary it looked like the deflexed limb was bending more, but it was actually stiffer at one time when I was doing that. That was when I was tillering on a pulley rigged tree.
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Awesome. Thanks guys.
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I have only one little thing to contribute, and maybe it's just me.... sometimes when I had some local weirdness in a couple character bows I tried, and it was hard to tell if there was hinging, I found that exercising the bow on the tiller tree and looking carefully at the limbs moving helped me see how it was bending all along better than I could judge by just holding it in one position and looking. The movement showed the bending part of the limb in action. It also helped when one limb had more deflex near the handle than the other. When it was stationary it looked like the deflexed limb was bending more, but it was actually stiffer at one time when I was doing that. That was when I was tillering on a pulley rigged tree.
+1
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Rich, that's a great post.....for all of us. Thanks! I would add that while following your mantra, exercise the limbs really well every time you remove wood. Some have recommended to exercise them 30 times or so, but I exercise mine 40-50 times each time wood is removed to help really train the wood to bend. Proceed slowly and patiently. Sometimes it helps me to tiller a little and then wait til the next day and look at the bow with fresh eyes before proceeding. Just my 2¢ worth.
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You make very valid additions gentlemen.....When we have everybody contributing it HAS to be good and thanks for caring enough to contribute.....as I have said before this is GREAT
rich
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J
Anderson: How would you rate the lilac and steam? I am gonna start shaping up my lilac today so any pointers you have (I probably missed it in here somewhere) I would really appreciate. Not a lot of experience in here on lilac that I've seen compared to the more common woods. Thank buddy.
Rich, that's a great post.....for all of us. Thanks! I would add that while following your mantra, exercise the limbs really well every time you remove wood. Some have recommended to exercise them 30 times or so, but I exercise mine 40-50 times each time wood is removed to help really train the wood to bend. Proceed slowly and patiently. Sometimes it helps me to tiller a little and then wait til the next day and look at the bow with fresh eyes before proceeding. Just my 2¢ worth.
I agree. Having the discipline to wait and be sure my brain and guts are on the same page is tough. Also to exercise limbs and just inspect the grain and wood in a calm manner for a while. Every time I get into the hurry up mode I will do less quality work. If I am feeling rushed for whatever reason it aint so good. I am trying to keep it more meditative.....But then it aint July 31st yet >:D
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Agreed on all fronts fellas....Def agree on exercising the limbs in between wood removal.
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Here is a video showing Rich's method: https://youtu.be/SDJPgUN5XqE
I do this exclusively to string longbows and even some recurves, it's a whole lot safer than the ole step through method. For some really heavy recurves with big sweeping curves, you need a stringer.
David,
are you familiar with the "push-pull" method of stringing a bow? If so do that just a little bit to test for relative power. You can put it on the long string now....but be real careful that you do 2 things and I do mean watch BOTH of 'em.....Pull just enough to see if both limbs look like they are pretty even.....
if they are not then stop and make them more even.....when they are then put your scale on and pull it to 40 pounds and see where you hit that weight....if it hits 40 at about say 8-10 inches you are still heavy but close enough to go to your scraper......
When I say long string I define that as JUST as long as the bow (not real sloppy) I know it's the "exciting time" right now because you want to see her bend.....please dont do that you only have to pull it one time a little to far and ya got a kids bow EVERYTIME.
Here is your mantra.....are they even? where do they hit 40, are the even, where do they hit 40......keep that up till you are about 6 inches short of full draw.....then are they even, where does it hit 50 ....are they even and where do they hit 50....until you are there.
Make sure the limbs are real close to bending the same first, then pull and NEVER go past intended draw weight........the more bows you make the more the urge to just pull her back is gonna creep in.....stick to the mantra. Also, once you are back to about 6-8 inches of draw then be sure to shorten your string to "low brace" before you carry on......at about 14" you should be able to safely brace it.
Each and every time you shorten that string you better be damned sure you have nice even bends in the limbs....if not then get 'em even FIRST.. I'm not trying to be a smart ass....it just that there is a certain process to tillering, if you follow the mantra you wont have any big problems.....when ya get over confident (like I still do at times) something will come back to bite you and ya got either a kids bow or a broken bow.
Oh ya......quit forgettin the pics man cause you know us hill-billy's like our pics >:D >:D >:D
rich
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You guys are killing it on here! I'm still chasing a ring on my Plan A stave - the rings are so thin its like scraping butterfly wings. Due to my inexperiance with Osage, when I first saw the stave I thought to myself "self, that aught to be easy chasing those rings". But, when I got into it, I relized that what I thought were big fat rings where really groups of very very thin rings, I think there is a thread on here about something called "moon rings" or similar, and this stave has em in spades. But, I got it figured out and I'm on the trail of a good ring. I think it's going to make a killer bow, the wood is willing and sound, I just have to do my part to release the beast. I only have a few hours a weekend to work on it though, so you guys are smoking me.
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The idea that you have to "train" the stave/board to become a bow, really helped me understand tillering. There was a period in my building where getting the limbs to bend evenly became much easier for me. During this time, I broke 3 or 4 bows in a row. I finally realized it was because I was getting an even tiller with fewer overall limb flexes. The limbs were bending evenly but the flexibility wasn't increasing because of minimal exercise. Just because your tiller is even doesn't mean you're ready for a full draw, or even a half draw. When you do your 30-50 pulls after removing wood, the draw weight will decease between that first pull and the last one without removing any additional wood. Just one more instance where lack of patience can ruin your day(and your bow for that matter). The more you bend your stick, the closer it gets to being a bow.
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Fellas, Mr. DuBois generouly sent me some skins for Ms. Lauren's award bow (amoungst other goodies) got them yesterday so thought I would post the start of the skin job. Remember that I did not take any character out the bow's limbs, just went real careful and think it will look real good when done. The skin would have covered the entire bow but I left about 6" on each end so that I can put a raw-hide wrap (decoration) on @ to match the grip and then a touch of paint on the flipped tips.
Anyway, thanks so much Mr. BuBois.
rich
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Sidmand, this aint a race bud, as long as your having some fun and are still enthused it's all good....and I sure hope you are having fun doing this.
rich
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Wow Rich she is gonna love it.
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Excellent explanation Rich. Using close to the same method and say working on a bow I want to come out 50#@28, once I reach my desired weight @ say 24 or 25", I then begin finish sanding my bow front, back, and sides, getting rid of unwanted tool marks, rounding off all corners. I'm basically finishing the bow except for what little scraping and sanding may be remaining on the belly to achieve my final desired weight. I haven't missed weight since utilizing this method,
Sidmand, don't fret the moon rings just stay as clean as you can.
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I got the bark off of the back of the second bow last evening. That was slow going. I have to say this stave is about all I could have asked for -- clear, no twist to speak of (yet) and the natural reflex is already pretty. I lined it out for cutting today, and I'm just going to go slow with it, because really, it just seems like wants to be a bow all by itself. I just gotta keep from interfering with it.
Last night:
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowB2.jpg)
Bark scraped off:
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowB3.jpg)
Natural reflex:
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowB4.jpg)
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Excellent explanation Rich. Using close to the same method and say working on a bow I want to come out 50#@28, once I reach my desired weight @ say 24 or 25", I then begin finish sanding my bow front, back, and sides, getting rid of unwanted tool marks, rounding off all corners. I'm basically finishing the bow except for what little scraping and sanding may be remaining on the belly to achieve my final desired weight. I haven't missed weight since utilizing this method,
I like that Fred. I have a habit of getting too close and then being under weight after finishing.
Glad I could be a part of it half eye, thanks.
What is that wood Plan B?
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Plan B, how seasoned is that stave?
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Fred, it was the wany edge of a black birch board cut last summer, then stripped off @ 1-1/4" thick and stored in a shed for a couple months, then brought indoors in the house for 3 months. I sawed it closer to profile couple days ago, and I checked it yesterday after striping the bark off and it was 1159 grams. Today, just now weighing it, it's still 1159 grams.
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Mr.B
That right there got "eastern Woodland" wrote all over it, cant wait to see what ya got cookin 8)
rich
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Sidmand, this aint a race bud, as long as your having some fun and are still enthused it's all good....and I sure hope you are having fun doing this.
rich
Yes, always fun, thank you. Bow making is my escape - it's cathartic. I have 6 kids at home right now, and they are very active and a lot of fun. But, sometimes we all need a break and a little quiet time - that comes around noonish on the weekends, when the smallest of the thundering herd take naps, and the rest are sent to their rooms for some R&R. That's when the bow making happens.
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Rich, I already trimmed it some a few minutes ago before I read your post -- I went 2" wide from fades straight to 16" from the tips, then tapered to 1/2" tips. So I couldn't back up to a straight end profile for an eastern woodlands bow (as I understand it).
Overall length is 68+ right now. I was feeling kinda cautious since the last bow was 1-5/8 black birch and didn't think I could make weight without straining. It was down to 60" piked and heat treated, etc. Still couldn't do it.
This one I was thinking the design would be: limbs are straight for 18" out, then taper for 16" -- sorta between flatbow and pyramid. And maybe not fool with anything as far as steaming or heat bending or treating, and just let it be what it is because of that clean reflex already there. I don't know -- I guess it'll uhhhh "speak to me" as I go along about that.
Anyway, I could leave it 2" straight from near the fades. But what you suggested is still tempting, and I could cut the straight section down in approaching the fades to give it a more blade like shape like the Sudbury bow. Willie was kind enough to send pics of that, and it's something I really want to do. But I'm a little worried about strain in the waisted section with black birch, as stiff as it is (compared to the ash of the Sudbury). And I wouldn't know how to tiller it there.
Maybe I should wait for that, and get this bow done to have a trade bow I like, and then try that one -- you know, Plan C? :laugh:
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David:
Listen to half eye :) That is good advice.
And I don't know what tillering setup you have but if you're up close to the bow when you're pulling the string it can be difficult to see how it bends. See if someone can snap a picture while you're pulling the string it that you can look at , it really helped me to get some perspective.
I find standing near a big mirror or other reflective surface allows you to flex the bow and look at it at the same time, but use an arrow clearly marked with the pull-distance so you do not over-bend the bow. Alternatively video yourself pulling it from the side (like with an ipad or smart-phone) - the small screen really shows up the tiller
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Mr B,
Man ya got a plan....I'd stick with it sir. Hey I'm old and stuck on Eastern NA bows so ya know what they say.....they all look a like to me >:D >:D >:D
rich
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I think I'll taper above the fades in just a leetle.........
Next one EWB for sure!
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Started working on getting limbs on the vine maple floor tillered better. While working on the big whoopty do I opened up an unseen nasty knot. Soaked it with super glue and guess I will just have to leave that area stiff. Unless you guys have any better ideas on how to hande it.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160205_114703850.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160205_114711873.jpg)
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Rich,
That's some "half eye" work on that quiver...Creative work and accurate paintings! Looks like that was found 300 yrs. ago in an Ojibwa camp...It's my understanding that the big underwater cat protected the copper in your lake around Michigan ;)
Nice work bud, Don
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Dubois:
With the lilac get it down to when you're gonna put it on the tillering tree. I had to steam the whole limb for about 45-60 to get results. Also what I noticed is that even though I'd steamed it for so long it was still pretty stiff almost like I had not steamed it at all. When I steamed some red oak it got soft but not this one. Part of my mistake was I left it to thick and that was about 1/2" thick.
Good luck sir!
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turtle, did you dig all of the rot out before applying the sg? If you did you should be fine. Otherwise I'd drill the decay out, clean around it and then build it up with glue and sawdust.
I'm amazed at how well all of you are doing so far. This may danged near the best bow trade I've ever witnessed. Thanks to all of you for the great participation. You guys all are chipping in to answer every question presented and sharing knowledge that we're all learning from.
I'd at this time like to give a special "Thank You" to Mr. Rich Rouseau (half eye). Your involvement, knowledge, and sharing has been an inspiration to me and all of us here on this trade. This wouldn't have been possible without your generous giving help.
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Damned Fred....now ya got me all kinda red here.....I agree on the "best" trade comment. I believe that with everybody sharing these are gonna be real kick-butt bows and some good memories as well.
Mr. Burchett, you must have been researchin there ya sneaky little devil....cause your spot on the "underwater panther" thing.
rich
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turtle, did you dig all of the rot out before applying the sg? If you did you should be fine. Otherwise I'd drill the decay out, clean around it and then build it up with glue and sawdust.
It wasn't rotten. Just slightly soft around the edges. But the more wood I remove from the belly the bigger it gets.
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Steve, my guess? is that you should still be okay. You might want to ask others that you know who've
built more than I have. I've only had a couple that were left in the working part of the limb and they were both osage.
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Three cheers for the red guy in green!
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This is the shape it's gonna be, and now I'm quittin' for the day before I floor tiller it too far....
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowB6.jpg)
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowB5.jpg)
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Plan B, love that profile. That should be a shooter.
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Well after several hours studying that bad spot I decided that even leaving it stiff that I still needed to remove more wood. Low and behold the spot started getting smaller. Maybe it will dissappear before I'm done.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160205_173947813.jpg)
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PlanB, that stave is starting to look like a bow.
Turtle, I think you are going to be good with that knot. That is good news it is disappearing on you.
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Man Turtle you must be one clean living dude >:D
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;D
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Thanks Fred, Swampman. :)
Turtle, that's looking promising.....really glad to see it!
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I started a fire in my wood stove and am waiting for my shop to warm up. I will be doing some scraping soon. :laugh: :laugh:
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I went back to where I saw the osage the other day and found an offering from the tree. It was a standing dead trunk. The usable section was only 5' long and after splitting it might make a better set of billets, but any osage is good osage in this neck of the woods. This is a first for me but I seldom split osage. There were thorns inside the stave. Check it out.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2794_zpsduqwwmpc.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2796_zpshviclbpz.jpg)
Wasn't expecting that. I thought they were nails at first. I was quite relieved to say the least.
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Hatchet work is done. Got the profile rough cut, but still need to get it clean up to the layout lines and work around the knots. Its going to need some heat straightening, the tips are out of alignment about 2 inches.
I laid out the handle symmetrically from the bow centerline, and it is still not completely roughed out, but I am not liking the overall look of the handle and fades. I think I will bypass my handle layout lines to get it more uniform. I also plan to heat bend the bow in the handle area to get the tips closer in alignment.
What do you guys think? Am I going the right direction with the handle?
Michael
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Loope, it looks like if you moved the lower limb ( the one on the floor in the pic) right at the bend just below the grip hump looks like the tips would line up center of the grip.
I am not there to touch so cant be sure about that but ya could check it with your string. It sure is looking good sir....you must have the patience of Job 8)
rich
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Got some more work done today... Not much, but I'm in no hurry. Cut the belly down some more, and smoothed the sides out from the bandsaw cut. One limb is a little bit stiffer then the other.... and they are both still pretty stiff.
I also re built my tillering tree. I've had the pulleys for a while, but just got around to putting it together.
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160205_202227_zpsq8vbgzfs.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160205_202227_zpsq8vbgzfs.jpg.html)
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Looking good David. Just keep nibbling away at her and it will come around for ya. Doesn't take much ironwood to make weight does it? >:D >:D >:D Now I'm bein a smart-butt
rich
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Thanks Rich,
I checked it with a string from tip-to-tip and it looks like a couple inches off the centerline, maybe slightly more. I had been wondering about bending it right where you mentioned, sounds like that is what I should try.
I'm going to thin the limbs somewhat this weekend, and then be ready to try straightening somewhat.
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That is the smart thing to do sir. You may also wish to think about single side string knocks if ya get her real close but she just wont give ya the rest ......you would be surprised how much putting them on opposite side will move a string ....just something to put in your pocket in case she gets a wee bit snippy >:D
rich
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Looking good David. Just keep nibbling away at her and it will come around for ya. Doesn't take much ironwood to make weight does it? >:D >:D >:D Now I'm bein a smart-butt
rich
Nope, it doesn't! I've never heard of this wood... ever... And it just keeps impressing me.
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Dakota, that's pretty interesting-- I wonder if two trunks grew together?
Loope that's a wild stave alright!
David, you're well on your way. Bet you're excited!
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David it's starting to look real good! Slow and steady take your time and keep those ?'s and pics coming.
Loope interesting stave, right up my alley, makes you want to set back and scratch your head
DK I've never seen anything like that, I thought barb wire when I first seen it.
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Loope: You don't learn anything if you don't get challenged, that's a great stave for that!
David:You did the right thing setting up that tillering tree, so much easier tillering that way.
PlanB: Seriously, two bows almost done? Keep 'em coming Mr they look great!
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Well I got my BL to full draw tonight and it is right on track for goal weight. What do you all think of the tiller?
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/131DFE2E-F061-46C7-ADA8-917E133959B6_zpsayfv5e6x.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/131DFE2E-F061-46C7-ADA8-917E133959B6_zpsayfv5e6x.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/331FB5FC-78BB-43D1-91D3-D0CC6D26806D_zpsafml1a2a.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/331FB5FC-78BB-43D1-91D3-D0CC6D26806D_zpsafml1a2a.jpg.html)
I shot a few arrows and I was very pleased with the result.
Here are a few more pictures.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/F555F5AF-32DC-49F3-AC1A-5646B382F165_zpsrtkgrnd8.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/F555F5AF-32DC-49F3-AC1A-5646B382F165_zpsrtkgrnd8.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/FAC6F6F0-BD70-4FF2-82BF-39025B6A20CD_zpsdznq3ujs.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/FAC6F6F0-BD70-4FF2-82BF-39025B6A20CD_zpsdznq3ujs.jpg.html)
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Looks good man....in your hand I think the top limb needs a little work from midlimb to about 5 to 6" just below the tip. I think the bottom limb looks perfect...nice graceful arc. What's it look like unbraced?
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Swamman Lookin good.
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Looks good man....in your hand I think the top limb needs a little work from midlimb to about 5 to 6" just below the tip. I think the bottom limb looks perfect...nice graceful arc. What's it look like unbraced?
1+
But it is hard to be sure since I aint there...come to think of it, even when I am "there" I aint always real sure :-\
DK- I've seen a few like that. It's almost like the osage grows n on itself. Those are some nice big ones!
Davd E. Nice job all around buddy!
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Looks good man....in your hand I think the top limb needs a little work from midlimb to about 5 to 6" just below the tip. I think the bottom limb looks perfect...nice graceful arc. What's it look like unbraced?
Ajooter, the top limb in the picture with me has been causing issues for me all along. That limb started out with 3 inches of reflex and the lower limb had a bit of deflex. I have had to rely on my tillering gizmo on this bow from the start. My tillering gizmo tells me the arc is the same in both limbs but when I look at it in the picture, I am not sure. When unbraced, the bow is almost straight with the bottom limb still showing the original deflex. The top limb is showing a bit of set if I consider the reflex it had.
I may toast the belly and adjust the tiller after that. I have never had anything bad happen from toasting a belly.
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Woke up with "bow brain"
Last night I decided I needed another stave in this so dug out an osage and chased a ring. Got some pretty little leopard spots in it!
Lilac on hot stove after olive oiling and still in clamps now. It never wanted to give way easily like you said Janderson. Not sure I can pull this off just to get it in line??
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#2
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Mr. DuBois, you are an animal with that stave sir 8) Got some feedback on that sinew deal if ya get a chance to call.
Swampman, I think your tiller is good, while it might use a very small amount of tweeking, it is close enough to shoot forever. A lot of my staves are pretty knarly and sometimes you can go nuts trying for perfection. Take what the wood will give.
I am pretty sure you are going to work the mentioned area though ::), just trying to say that would be good, but if it just wont seem to come around like you want.....then leave it be, it really is not that far out.
rich
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Swampman I don't trust photos much when it comes to small differences. I think you know better holding it in your hands, looking at it all over, knowing its history, and irregularities, and shooting the thing.
If the wood was perfect, and identical limb to limb, the angle of the camera perfect, the camera itself not suffering from spherical aberration, barrel distortion, image centered, the lighting perfect, your hand in the exact centers of pressure at the bow and string, you didn't favor a positive tiller, any heat treatments were perfectly symmetrical, etc,.etc. then maybe the limbs would be mirror images of each other and bend at the exact same rates, and that would even show up in a photo.
And I also believe that what looks like perfect even tiller in a photo, might not shoot as well as it could in real life, or even look that way to a real observer, or in a mirror. This is all not to say not to use every tool you want to get a bow looking right, but when it comes right down to it, I would trust your instincts and your eyes and hands, because I can promise you from experience, it's possible to tiller something that shoots good and feels good to death by trying to follow a single photo. Not trying to argue anything at all here, but just trying to encourage with a plug for instinct and feel.
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Fellas,
I'm about ready to wrap up the award bow for Lauren. I would like everybodys opinion about the grip. What I mean is that she likes pink and blue so I wanted the grip pink and the tips blue. I knew that a hot pink would show through the rawhide and this is what it looks like now. Do you think I should leave this look or repaint over the raw-hide? Also what is the general feeling on the tips as to look and color?
Thanks fellas, appreciate your time and I feel a bunch of heads is better than one.
rich
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Swampman, that tiller looks real close. Is the top limb the one on the right in the top pic? It's hard to tell without seeing unbraced but it looks to me like that limb is stiff right out of the fade.
The more I look at it the better it looks. It doesn't need much to be damned near perfect.
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Swamp, the tiller looks pretty darn good to me.
Dubois, that's one snakes stave! I can't wait to see it pulling back.
Rich, the award bow turned out sweet! Great work bud!
I'll be working on the ironwood bow later today, and will have a progress pic or 2.
Tattoo Dave
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Hey guys, If any of you need whitetail back strap sinew I have 7 oz left that I'm going to send out for $10 an oz donation. The funds will be used to offset the shipping cost for the 2 members we have that will be shipping bows over the big pond. jandersson took the first 3 oz.
And my email server is down for the weekend so PM's only until sometime Monday.
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Fred, I'll mail out a 10$ donation for the shipping, but I don't need any sinew. Send the sinew to someone who needs it, or maybe someone who has never used it before.
Tattoo Dave
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Rich, bow looks great. Fred pm me when moneys r needed for over sea's shipping. And everyone else, everything looks great.
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Dave, Thanks man....for everything !!!!
Stix, Thank you also for your contribution as well.
rich
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Rich,
Very nice looking award bow, especially like the rawhide wrap on the skins near the tip...Lauren should be very happy...
Don
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Thanks fellas, I'll get the bow sealed up and hope for the best.
rich
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Rich....Award bow looks great to me.
Fred.... I'll chip in for shipping, just tell me when and where. I dont want anything in exchange.
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Man - I can't keep up with this thread! Bows are already tillered out and ready for finish, more staves being dug out and split - lots going on!! Bows are looking great.
I worked a little bit this morning on my backup. I got the lams ground down and the core lam tapered. Made some posts to put in some deflex and reflex during glue up. Clamped it down for a dry run.
Before I add glue and clamp it back down any suggestions? Center post is 3", mid-limb is 2" and the end posts are 4 1/2".
Thanks...Mitch
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Rich that bow is awesome I'm sure she is going to shoot the fire out of it. She has been down here making more strings. I ask Lauren what leanth are you making she said a 12 stran 72" I said ok I guess we will have to make a bow to fit it some time. What a enjoyment!! I don't care if she makes 100 as long as there shorter than 72"lol
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MW, That looks pretty sweet.....when I was looking into Asiatic bows there a couple of Chineese Infantry bows that were that shape, allways thought they were pretty darned cool.
Gutshot, her string is about 48-50 inch with some left over >:D I sure hope the guess on the colors will suit her.
Turtle, thanks man, always like to get a youngster excited. One of the joys to an old man.
rich
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i'm a little worried about pushing my osage stave out to the draw length i need sense its so short :( so i decided to dig out another stave from my stash ;D
found a branch of Japanese yew that is 63in long.
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/5030829A-B4AA-42F7-B30F-6E9DF3481CA1.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/5030829A-B4AA-42F7-B30F-6E9DF3481CA1.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/ADE412CA-5542-448E-82CD-3F1C6DA265C9.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/ADE412CA-5542-448E-82CD-3F1C6DA265C9.jpg.html)
looks fine till you see the side profile :o
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/9678D2DB-08F3-48EC-A9C2-F70431726A19.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/9678D2DB-08F3-48EC-A9C2-F70431726A19.jpg.html)
so i'm going to build it backwards >:D got what is now going to be my back cleaned of all the chop marks and the profile roughed in. just need to find something back it now ;)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/E1411B52-7E08-4016-B14A-89C338C959D0.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/E1411B52-7E08-4016-B14A-89C338C959D0.jpg.html)
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I got some help/advice from Hunterbob on this one. I used the grill heat the limb. I know what an idiot!lol. I didn't leave it in very long and it opened up a drying check. Bob said it would probably be ok. What do you guys think. I really want to use this stave because it's absolutely beautiful with lots of character. I'm not going to get to work much on the bows till Monday or Tuesday but I will get back at it as soon as I'm off and have no other obligations. Tanks Tim
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Just one more!
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TimothyR,
Hunterbob told ya straight sir.......doesn't look like the check runs off of the bow, a little CA glue and light clamp pressure.....should be good to go........oh ya stay from the open flames too >:D >:D
Ya had to know that was coming , right? 8)
rich
PS: You may want to hear from some of the Osage guys, looks like it got toasted all the way around and since I dont heat treat I got no idea about that issue....or even if it is an issue.
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David, mistake in my explanation. Don't rasp down to the yellow line, only to d and f.
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Thanks everyone for your comments on the tiller. It was very helpful.
Fred, you have a sharp eye. The top limb right out of the fade is where the bow bent the last so. Think that needs to come around a little more. I am going to work on it a bit more and see if I can bring that around.
Rich, that bow looks great. I am no help with the color scheme though. I am color blind. I will probably start work on plan b soon. I would like to have a couple options to choose from to send out. Maybe I can have a few ;D
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(http://i.imgur.com/f6kust4.jpg?1)
Some people don't like using circles...but that's exactly what I was seeing when I did this. I don't have rich's eye yet....mine art as "experienced ". ;)
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Went to mother in laws today so found a way to the garage with the hatchet and stave >:D I love her, hatchet that is.
Got my newest and now favorite osage pretty much to floor tiller and need to get one limb to match the other with some heat. Looking sorta eastern woodland like at 67"
Left a little extra on the end with a shaving coming off it just to have something to clamp on.
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Also got better result so far than I expected on the lilac with steam and clamping the heck out of it. Might work out after all.
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Got a couple ?s for the group. When I cut this piece of hickory there were some small branches that I saw off and they left some small stubs. There are spots where the branches project through the limbs. These obviously arnt the same as a broken branch that the tree has grown around thus resulting in a hole. I wanted to gently file them down on the back and maybe put a sinew patch over them in preperation for rawhide backing the bow. Is this feasible?
Pic of stub left on back of bow
(http://i.imgur.com/7bvUtDu.jpg?1)
Also was wondering about the knots showing on the belly and if they would require any attention? They are centered in the limb but seem like they may want to check in a perpendicular direction across the limb. I could hollow them out and fill them with sawdust and glue.
Pic of stub on back and where it projects to belly
(http://i.imgur.com/95G6kf2.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/Kd4RlJd.jpg?1)
Thank you for your advice and opinions in advance.
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Ajooter,
I believe that if you dress the stub down as smooth as you can get it (meaning no sharp edges) and soak both sides of it with CA it ought to be tough as nails. Your scraper should remove any CA staining as you finish the tiller, and of course the raw-hide will take care of the back
rich
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Ajooter - No experience with the "branches" on the back of the bow - but I would think smoothed down and rawhided backed would be ok. I have never had problems with knots on the belly - usually shoot some super glue into them.
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Went ahead and glued and clamped it up. We will see...... :laugh:
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Looking good Mitch. I seem to be able to only TRY to master one thing at a time and I'm not even comfortable with selffbows yet. If I make it another 5 years maybe I'll delve into more complicated matters. :laugh:
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Thanks Ajooter for putting the circle on my tiller picture. That helps me to see the top limb does need to bend a bit more near the fade. I think the branches on the hickory will be no trouble for you. Hickory is tough, especially if you are backing with rawhide.
Here is a picture of my bow unstrung after heat treating the belly. You can tell which limb has natural reflex.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/1594E4F5-B731-4348-BE5F-68976DF2C0AF_zpsxqzc0t7e.jpg) (http://s1061.photo-bucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/1594E4F5-B731-4348-BE5F-68976DF2C0AF_zpsxqzc0t7e.jpg.html)
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Guys this thread is killing it
67 pages
997 replies
14252 views
Keep up the good work
Fred Thanks for doing this
Rich thanks for all the good info
Everybody else I'm enjoying the pics, ?'s, comments. Keep posting.
I will have pics soon of the Osage Rich sent me. Worked all day on it and only got the handle and one limb done. its a tough one for me. Lol
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Yeah, Rich is known for sending people tough stuff to work on :o
I agree completely gutshot; this is awesome!!
MW; that is one sweet profile.
Swampman; I like it. You aint too far from me up here in the snow.
I wish I could contribute more knowledge but I can barely keep up with you guys as it is :o :-[
Here's the lilac again.
She's coming around and might be damn close after #3 steam session.
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Guys, all your bows are looking great, awesome progress! I didn't get any bow work done today, went to the farm today and then after work was done, went on an arrow hunt. Came back with a couple dozen shoots to try making arrows, mostly rose shoots, but also some honeysuckle. It was sure great weather to be outside today.
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Guys, all your bows are looking great, awesome progress! I didn't get any bow work done today, went to the farm today and then after work was done, went on an arrow hunt. Came back with a couple dozen shoots to try making arrows, mostly rose shoots, but also some honeysuckle. It was sure great weather to be outside today.
Yeah I didn't get any bow eork done either. Spent the morning doing my taxes. Then I split firewood and cleaned up my shop. Was going to do some bow work after but couldnt get in the mood for some reason. But I dont have to go back to work untill Thursday so I should get some more done.
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Yeah, Rich is known for sending people tough stuff to work on :o
DuBois, Rich didn't send a tough stave to work on I'm making it tough, I just hope I can make a bow out of it that somebody will be proud of.
If I'm not mistaking Fred might have posted we want everybody to make a bow that will make you cry to give it away. Or something like that. And that's my goal on here. Heck when I stuck a big splinter in my hand today I about cried. Heck is that what Fred was talking about. Lol
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I've been following Rich's mantra on long string on the plan B black birch. It's helped break the bad habit I had of marking and working on both limbs at the same time. It's going better because of that. I don't even mark the softer limb anywhere, until the other tip is at the same height.
I'm tillering with the bow upside down this time, on the floor, on a pad, foot on the handle. There's a discount store long dressing mirror a couple feet away, propped up and horizontal on the floor, angled up. I don't have to keep going outdoors to the tiller tree on the shed -- there's a lot of ice out there now, and putting on a jacket and ice grippers between scrapes is just too slow.
I've found I can keep my thumb on the spring bow scale so that when the pointer comes up to the tiller weight I want to allow, I feel it hit, check the mirror for shape. It's pretty quick to do that, lower the string and scrape. Seems to be working anyway.
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Hey Gutshot,
I was just takin a little inside jab at Rich. I'm sure the stave is awesome since it came from him. Call me a little perverse, but I kinda like it when a bow fights back and gets me a little. Seems like every bow I work on draws blood. Now if it was just another creature besides me that would be better :-[
Mr. B; I must have missed that half eye pearl of wisdom n the midst of all this but I sure do like the idea. I have a mirror like that in the garage that will be coming inside soon ;D
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Hey, Dubois.
Before Rich's advice, I used to be focused on stopping hinges on either side and getting an even bend in the limb. Now I ignore the weaker limb until tips bend to even level. And keep checking that all the way through.
I used to worry about any soft spot in the weaker limb not being reduced around right away. But you are still taking pressure off of it by reducing the stronger limb, and you are evening out that one in the process. Once tips are even, then you can go back and hit the other limb. Its hinge won't be as bad, and you won't take as much off. That's good because if you did it earlier when it was exaggerated, you might take too much off in evening it, and now that limb would be even weaker than the other. This over-scraping can exaggerate near the end of the tillering process. At least that's how I see it now.
re. mirror on floor tillering:
As a pad on the floor I'm using a book that's the same size and exactly centered under the handle. I needed that because the reflex makes the tips hit the floor. Definitely makes a difference that everything is centered (pad, foot, scale hook). You can see diff. in the mirror image bend shape when you pull. I'm seeing more this way than I did with a pulley tiller tree outside. Mirror is about 4 feet from the bow.
It's got me thinking about a more permanent holder with a plywood base and built in pad and handle stop, and a guard above the limbs. Maybe something that folds up with hinges. And a little fold out leg for the separate mirror that sets it at the right angle. The rig could fold up and be put away.
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Plan B and the whole group......
One of the reasons I said this was the best trade ever is because of the way Fred went about it, and the way this whole group responded to that. With everybody actively participating and throwing ideas "out-there" then hopefully we all get to take the bits and pieces of shared knowledge and then develop some techniques that make sense to us. Then that is the best thing that can come out of the entire deal.
The take-away here (in my opinion anyway) everybody is sharing, using inf to tweek their personal take on it and then we all get to make better bows and feel comfortable at the same time.
I have strange ways of doing things, but they make sense to me. I aint no bow genius so dont take what I say as some kind of thing needs wrote in stone, but rather hear what I throw out there and use it, forget it, or change it to suit your style and vision. Same goes to any of you fellas.....if ya got something works for you then please share it. Shared knowledge will make us all better at this crazy sport.
rich
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?? for you all on lilac.
I have the string coming over the arrow pass area where I want it and am happy I ever got it there . There is an inch or so to cut off each end still.
But
In this side profile you may be able to see, there is a slight deflex in the fades and both limbs do a little wombly thing and then deflex toward the tips. It is all natural and the same on both, and I am tempted to leave it alone, expecially since the knot holes on one end would be right where I would need to heat to bend in reflex.
Are there any bows with this profile intentionally? How do they perform and what do you think on this?
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I would tiller as is man!! Both tips have that same slight reflex and then flatten out. Should make a nice character piece.
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Hey DuBois -
Is the stave in your pic belly up or belly down? I am assuming belly down :laugh: Even with the slight deflex at the end, the tips seem to be in front of the handle a bit to me. The tips will be stiff anyway so..... I would tiller it the way it is.
Mitch
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One observation.
I have had a few lilac sticks that seem very dense like osage and they have all been small diameter. This one is from an older bush that was large for lilac and it has very little crown.
It does not seem as dense to me and I wonder if lilac changes as it get nearer to end of life?
It is healthy wood but feels lighter; somewhere between ERC and osage.
I'm gonna keep track of this for future reference.
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Belly down Mitch.
Ok, 2 for, less work, I will go for it.
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I'm with Ajooter and Mr. MW.....PICK THAT PEACH !!!!!
The only thing I could see as a possiblity is to maybe heat a slight sharp reflex in the center like the precursor of a gull-wing......nowhere near what ya did on your last osage >:D >:D and for what it's worth a lot of cultures in the arctic and sub-arctic regions all around the earth used forms of deflexed tips.
rich
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Dubois, I am with everyone else so far, tiller it as is. Should make for an interesting bow.
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I like Rich's added reflex at handle.
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One of the things I like about branch bows is the character. I'd run with it.
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Dubois.....Go with it as is. Just remember that the deflexed tips will make it stack at a shorter draw than if they were straight.
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hey guys,
here is a teaser pic of the 2 Penobscot trade bows. Dont want to say too much but the bottom bow is in the pics as a comparison and is about 45#....guess ya just got to speculate as to what the other 2 are gonna be.....my bad >:D
rich
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Once tips are even, then you can go back and hit the other limb. Its hinge won't be as bad, and you won't take as much off
I like your approach to that, PB
Btw. seeing the bend for what it is, can be tricky sometimes. I moved my tiller tree because I discovered my judgement was better from a greater viewing distance.....
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So cool, Rich!
Willie, not mine, got that from Mr. half eye.
re. close mirror I'm thinking now it is best for before full brace, and my tree on the shed will be better after. Been going slow on this one so, not even to full brace yet.
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Rich, they are looking sweet. The top one looks like it is going to be a pretty stout bow. You are very ambitious.
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Very nice looking bows Rich - I am sure everyone would love to shoot em! You are a bow building machine :laugh:
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Everybody seems to be coming along great! I'm going to need to make another adjustment at the handle now that I've thinned the tips. I got the top nock almost completed. I filed and sanded down the stubs on the back. And....I got my rawhide. I will hopefully be sending everyone's rawhide out monday. This bow is going to have a ltitle bit of love from a lot of the fellow traders ;).
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(http://i.imgur.com/Bk8AluP.jpg?2)(http://i.imgur.com/etjuzRs.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/1yAcHS9.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/JUogb9d.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/Gm1Tr1h.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/1c2o8C7.jpg?1)
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Damned Ajooter, tips that good lookin got to be illegal.....and I mean class A felony type illegal 8) 8)
rich
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+1
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Thanks fellas....ALL your bows are lookin great rich...especially that award bow!
Can't wait to see how plan b comes out! After the steam correction tonight I'm gonna work on my plan b a little.
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Ajooter, man I got to ask....with a bow that good lookin how come ya plannin a "B" model?
rich
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Just cause I wanna keep working on a bow while plan a is recovering from her handle tweak. And because I haven't watched an entire football game yet this year and would rather work on a bow!
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I coated the back of the bow pretty liberally with elmers after I first cut it....what's the best way to get it off? I will be putting a sizing coat underneath the rawhide but wanted to start fresh since the handle steaming is removing a little of the glue in patches.
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Wish i was doin as good as everyone else on here. Had to walk away today, just cant get top limb to catch up. Still got plan 2 and C to play with😄 great job guys.👍🏹
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If it was me, I would "feather-edge" any dry spots, then go over the whole back with a medium grit paper (by hand w/ little pressure). That gives the "primer" some "tooth" to give even and excellent adhesion.
rich
Stix....maybe you could post up a pic or two and I'd bet somebody could get ya on the right track sir. Seems like we got a whole bunch of talented guys floatin around.
rich
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ok here is part of plan B its rough and crud also its only handle and 1 limb.
I dropped 6 rings from back of handle to limb then back up 6 rings for natural tip overlays still needs cleaned up alot
it should be center shot with the s type handle
Im looking at next saturday before i have this thing ready for long string
Also plan A is ready for tiller but im waiting on plan B so i can do all my tillering at one time
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stixs dont worry you will do fine and your as good as anybody on here. Be patient
Ajooter those are sick overlays
Rich i dont know nothing about that bow your making besides its very different and I would like to shoot it.. Whats the little bow on top for
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Gutshot, thats one funky stik, love the self tip build up idea. I'll get some pics up tomorrow. Ajooter, sweet overlays.
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Mr. Gutshot,
That there bow is looking real sweet, and man you been puttin in the work on that baby.
Them double bows are from the Penobscot Native American up in the North East. Always fascinated me so thought I would build some.....did a post on 'em....and Don Burchett has been testing one for a little bit now.....he has a post also. I guess they are real fast arrow speed for whatever draw weight they are pulling.
I got some museum pictures if ya want to see one of the originals
rich
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Mr. Gutshot,
That there bow is looking real sweet, and man you been puttin in the work on that baby.
Them double bows are from the Penobscot Native American up in the North East. Always fascinated me so thought I would build some.....did a post on 'em....and Don Burchett has been testing one for a little bit now.....he has a post also. I guess they are real fast arrow speed for whatever draw weight they are pulling.
I got some museum pictures if ya want to see one of the originals
rich
thats cool, it looks like it would shoot hard
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Those tips are looking sweet ajooter - and the back is is looking nice too, that knot looks fine. I just usually remove varnish, paint, glue, etc. carefully with a scraper and course (80 grit or so) paper.
Gutshot - that osage is coming along real nice - looking forward to the progress. You have a bunch of shavings and dust there on the floor!!! ;D
I worked on my hackberry a bit this afternoon - pictures here in a bit.
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Gutshot, that is really nice!
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Began tillering the hackberry - taking it slow and steady. Just have a long string on and only pulling it to 11" at 40#. Just starting to bend.
Snapped a pic of side profile before starting to compare to as I tiller it out. Drew a black line on the board across the top of the limbs - will be able to determine when and where any set begins.
1st pic - before starting to tiller.
2nd pic - pulling with the long string to 11" or so.
3rd pic - current profile pic.
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Looking good Mitch
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Nothin wrong there.
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I like the dry erase board....that's a great idea! Lookin really good too!
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I like the dry erase board....that's a great idea! Lookin really good too!
I like the dry erase board too.
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I'm gonna me too that.
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ME TOO TWO!!
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You guys bows are looking great, I'm going to have to get on the ball.
Rich, those bows intrigue me. I'm going to have to study that design. It would feel awkward for me to use as a hunting bow but maybe a guy would get used to it.
I'm going to have to cut down some of the hackberry out here this year and start seasoning some staves.
Mitch, how wide did you leave yours?
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Great idea on the board buddy!
At first I said "what the %6&% is on the back of that bow?"
Hey Rich, are those tough to get braced? I'd probably hurt myself :'(
Fred, did I win the first drawing??? Oh, wait, I aint in it am I ;) ;)
But seriously, when is the first prize drawing man?
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Fred would it be to much trouble to ask of you to repost a list of all the guys that's in the trade. I have looked for it but just can't find it.
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Fred would it be to much trouble to ask of you to repost a list of all the guys that's in the trade. I have looked for it but just can't find it.
Gutshot, go back to the very first page. The list is there.
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I had removed it because I felt it was taking up too much room. :-[
Just placed it up again with the rules on the front page.
Due to lack of participation by a few members I am shuffling some names around today. For the few of you that are well along with your builds please don't worry. You'll be building for someone else but with similar specs and I will PM you shortly.
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Mitch, add me to the list of admirers as well
Gutshot, left ya a phone message buddy
DuBois, no they are not too bad at all...just different from my usual push-pull.
Dont know Fred, about the hunting, I'll have to get that out when I can get back into the woods
Hey David, how the heck is your bow coming along....with the start you got thought we be seeing a little more of her.....your just teasing aint ya?
rich
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got my ring(s) chased on the stave, and got it laid out with pencil. Then, I changed my mind on the layout, and I'm going to go a different route, but I didn't draw it up yet. I will do that tonight. Here pics of the ring chasing. I said rings above cause this stave was covered up in those super duper thin "lunar rings" or whatever they are called. I simply couldn't get down to one of them, but the back is super clean and those super thin rings won't be a problem at all, at least I don't think they will.
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that stave was whispering "make me a mollegabet", then once I got the back chased down and the layout drawn on it, the stave screamed "NO, WAIT, MAKE ME INTO A BENDY HANDLE BOW WITH SCALLOPED EDGES!!" I couldn't turn that down, no sir. So, that's what she is going to be.
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"NO, WAIT, MAKE ME INTO A BENDY HANDLE BOW WITH SCALLOPED EDGES!!"
That will be cool Sidmand. I'll look forward to seeing that.
I've had my hickory stave in the hot box for a week and have been weighing it every day. She's still loosing weight so I band sawed the limbs a bit thinner to where I can start floor tillering and put her back in the hot box. That stave had more moisture than I realized......thank goodness for a hot box.
The steam bending at the handle has slowly returned to it's "crook" so I'll have to re-steam it in a few days. I want to see how much more it drops in weight over the next couple of days.......patience......patience. I'm getting behind some of you speed demons ;-) BUT, got to get hickory dry!
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Very cool Sidmand,
Drewster, Youll whip that hick into shape sir......make it scream for it's momma >:D
rich
Fred, If you need anything on the reshuffle please advise sir.
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Drewster your not that far behind your just making sure all is done correctly. I'm sure thAt stave will be a sweet bow when it's said and done
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I had removed it because I felt it was taking up too much room. :-[
Just placed it up again with the rules on the front page.
Due to lack of participation by a few members I am shuffling some names around today. For the few of you that are well along with your builds please don't worry. You'll be building for someone else but with similar specs and I will PM you shortly.
I have no dog in this fight but I am curious. Guys are already getting kicked out?
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Nobody's getting kicked out that I know of
rich
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I have not posted a lot, but I have been following closely and working on bows where I can. I keep thinking I just need to retire so I can devote myself full time to my hobbies. . .
I am also finishing up a couple of Christmas bows for two of my sons. I would be done already, but one of the staves broke during tillering. I got his plan B is tillered on Saturday, though, so some finish work and I will be able to really concentrate on this one.
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You are right Rich ::) Nobody's been booted. I don't intend to.
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Thanks for the quick response. Like I said none of my business and I wish this trade nothing but the best and was hoping you guys did not have drama right off the bat
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Hey David, how the heck is your bow coming along....with the start you got thought we be seeing a little more of her.....your just teasing aint ya?
rich
Haven't got anything else done. I have been busy with other stuff...
:D
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Just pullin yer chain David >:D >:D
rich
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David E. Other stuff meaning school?
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Not on the weekend... lol.
I have been building beehives for this spring. Had to get them all painted.... During the week I am doing school though.
That stave was sittin' there the whole time... Right in the corner of my eye. Hahaha.
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Thanks for the kind comments gents. The marker board was rescued from the trash after a bunch were replaced with "smart boards" at a school.
Fred - the hackberry I am working on I left a full 2" wide at the fades. I will most likely end up narrowing it a bit as I continue to tiller, but I wanted enough wood to make weight.
Another hackberry I made a while back (pyramid) I ended up about 1 3/4" wide tapered straight to 1/2" tips to make 50# at 28". Hackberry is good bow wood, but must be made wider than osage.
Sidmand - you got to love bendy handle osage bow!! Looking forward to seeing it take shape.
Mitch
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Two heat sessions has my reflex evened up as good as I think I can get it and my tips in line. Got my tips moving about 6 inches so hopefully I can get them moving far enough tomorrow to get her to low brace. Still trying to decide if I want to heat treat it or not as I have read mixed reviews on heat treating vine maple. Will wait untill I get it to full brace to decide.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160208_180942276.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160208_181005103.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160208_180849163.jpg)
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Looking good turtle. Another bow wood I haven't used. I'm going to have to start doing some stave swapping.
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Well now Mr. Turtle, looks like ya got all over that ornery piece of wood sir.
rich
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Finally wrasled the top limb into submission. Got er to low brace, lookin good. And decided to flip the tips.
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Looking good stix.
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Thanx Turtle, that stik ur workin is gonna be one helluva piece of art.
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Getting it done stix! That's top limb longer?
Coming right along turtle...lots of character in that stave.
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Stixs it's looking good.
Turtle way to make that wood do what you want it to
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Vine maple is looking good turtle - love that reflex.''
She looks good at brace stix - looking forward to seeing the tips after you get them flipped.
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Ajooter, its not longer but it is 1/8" positive
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All looking real good. stix, I'll bet that 1/8 positive will be excellent on that bow.
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Had a little disaster today steam bending. Broke a tip, and lost 4". I figured the bow was a write-off then. But after walking away from it, eating lunch, coming back and looking at it all carefully, I realized I could make it bendy handle, shift it up the unbroken limb and reshape the fades longer and get a 62" bow out of it. By reshaping the fades it actually now looks more like the Sudbury bow I was interested in. Starting to re-tiller and it's coming along easy. In fact easier than before. I like the way it looks now -- a little more character and less generic, if I can make draw length I might like it even better than before. We'll see...
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Plan B, i love recycling. Who knows might turn out better than expected.
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These trades threads are like HUGE build alongs! GRRRRREAT!!
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Looking great fellas!
Turtle, that is one awesome character stick.
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Plan B, my money is on you sir. If you have the Sudbury thing happening then you ought to be able to pull it off I'm positive.
rich
You fellas, each and every one, are some "stick to it", "wood bendin fools", and I'm damned glad to know all of ya.
rich
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Hey! Look what Fred sent
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8252.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8252.jpg.html)
Some real nice sinew! My dog won't leave me alone, I better lock it up over night. Why the excitement you might ask? Well, I've never used it before and I'm very interested in seeing how it works out. I had not planned on using it , the stave have some nice back character but I'm not trusting all the pin knots also I gotta crank a couple of extra inches out of it.
So my question is in what stage should I apply the sinew?
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Mr. Andersson,
I believe that having the bare bow to at least Brace height would be desirable, That way you wont be trying to tiller down a 100# bow after the sinew sets up 8)......and by the way if Mr. DuBois happens to chime then under no circumstance listen to him >:D >:D >:D
rich
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Turtle, Stix, great seeing you guy's bows! :)
Rich, Stix, thanks, muchly. I was kind of sick when it happened, but I've got hopes for it.
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Honestly B, i've had more than a few bows that started out as 1 design and finished beautifully as something else.
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Turtle, Stix, man you guys are making nice progress. That vine maple is looking interesting. I've never had my hands on any of that but see it a lot on this site. Looks like a challenge a minute to work with.
Stix, what wood is your bow? Hard to keep up with everyone. That "flip" looks mighty fine.
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Man... I can hardly keep up with this thread. Way to stick with it PlanB. It aint over till ya run out of wood.
Turtle, Stix, man you guys are making nice progress. That vine maple is looking interesting. I've never had my hands on any of that but see it a lot on this site. Looks like a challenge a minute to work with.
Stix, what wood is your bow? Hard to keep up with everyone. That "flip" looks mighty fine.
This is the first time I have tried vine maple but hope it wont be the last.It's nice wood to work but don't think I've ever seen any posted that didnt have a lot of character. Of course all this character in a new for me wood is forcing me to work slower which is a good thing.
I also got some goodies in the mail yesterday.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/20160208_224618.jpg)
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Mr. Andersson,
I believe that having the bare bow to at least Brace height would be desirable, That way you wont be trying to tiller down a 100# bow after the sinew sets up 8)......and by the way if Mr. DuBois happens to chime then under no circumstance listen to him >:D >:D >:D
rich
Huh? O:) O:) O:)
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Hey, Thanks Turtle! :)
Stix, well here's hoping it turns out okay. I just have to make draw length tillering. Probably bend the tips back a little. Not sure on that.
Here's the new shape. Now 62" bendy handle instead of the original 68" hard handle.
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowB7.jpg)
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Mr. B,
That looks great. That ought to be a hard shootin hunting bow right there.
rich
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That looks awesome B....you flip those tips and ya got a screamer!
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Better?
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowB8.jpg)
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Plan B, That profile there is gonna surprise ya how fast it shoots.....man that's lookin good.
rich
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Plan B...
Are you standing on a chair in that picture? ;D
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:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
yeah, man.
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Yes indeed PlanB, that's look'in really good!
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A+ B-man!
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That's a good lookin profile planb!
So I've got one of the ironwood staves bending back to 26", little more tillering. Only problem is the little twist in one tip. I've steamed it out twice now, keeps creeping back to where it started.
Tattoo Dave
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I have had ironwood do that before....if the bow is drawing back smoothly that tip twist will make no difference at all.....and make it's life any shorter either. Inter-tangled grain has pros and cons....tough as nails but a tad willfull. 8) 8)
rich
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Thank you everybody! :) :) :)
Had to put it away in the shed to let it rehydrate for a few days.
Looking forward to reading about all your great bows in the meantime....!!!
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Spending so much time keeping up with this thread not got any time to carve a bow.. >:D Life getting in the way at the moment, will post when I can sneak off to the workshop for a few minutes. ;)
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Planb that thing is lookin sweet,
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Hey fellas,
Just thoughgt I'd show you that all of mine dont make it either ::) ::)
This was going to be the 3rd Penobscott....had it to 75# @ 14....and was stretching it out a bit. Then a small pin knot (right on the edge, duh) decided to lift a splinter....but it's a damned fine one.
Anyways, I can save it for a lighter bow but it's days as a heavy-weight are all done.....all ready cut out my plan "B". So here's the pics fellas.
rich
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Half Eye, that stinks. But 75# that would've been a whopper of a bow when it was done. What weight were you going for?
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Was looking for about 80 after the back bow was added, but also had to have a lot of draw....just dumb on my part is all >:D >:D >:D
rich
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That's a shame, Rich, but I know you'll have another whipped up even better.
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That is a lot of weight Rich - and it was looking good. Knots on edges have bitten me a few times! I avoid them at all costs now. :laugh:
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Dang Rich, it would take me and my best friend to draw that bow. You were ambitious. Give her another go.
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Thats a shame Rich. Make the next one a little lighter please....... my shoulder won't take 80# anymore. >:D
PlanB........ thats looking real sweet.
Got mine worked out to low brace today. That one limbs a real bugger.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160209_171810633.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160209_171946820.jpg)
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All I can say fellas is this.....I've broke 'em before, I'm still breakin 'em, and I will probably break some more before I'm all done >:D >:D
Turtle, looks like you have a damned fine bend going there even with the character, that's an even bend going on sir.
MW, believe it or not Ironwood will tolerate that usually....untill some idiot wants a lot of weight on a 1" wide whitewood bow.....honestly I dont believe that would of happened if the weight was in the 50-60# range.
Maybe I should change my name to "operator error" 8)
rich
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Rich, toss a bamboo backing on it. That will take care of it mighty fine. I done that before on a hickory bow.
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Good to know Rich - I have some ironwood drying that I cut last year. I have heard lots of good thing about it and looking forward to working with it.
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Rich .... only can wish my failure rate was as low as yours!
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Lookin great B!!
It happens rich...makes us keep coming back for more!
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Turtle that is niiiiice! Both ends look perfect in the brace, even with all the snakeys.
How's Otter doing?
Ajooter, thanks!
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half eye: I think it broke due to your non ergonomical pull, straight back and push with your legs >:D
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Thanks for the sentiments fellas......but really not necessary. I dont like to break one for sure....but I aint gonna pour gas on my head and light it >:D Just went and cut out another blank.
Turtle: will do brother....by the way, I never could pull that much weight 8) Anything over 60# and you all get the two hand pics, eh?
Knoll, your computer aint got enough memory if I sent pics of every stick I've ever broke, used to measure them by the garbage can full !!!
MW....I was tellin the truth bud, I dont think anything about cutting right through a knot (on the edge) this was just a case utter foolishness.
ajooter, absolutely sir....all of us like the abuse ::)
Mr. Andersson....now that was funny right there
rich
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Hey guys I'm all out of rawhide backing strips with the few that I need for the two bows I'm working on. If I get some more I will let u know asap...sorry I couldn't help everybody out this round.
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Here's some a few progress pics. I need to make a string for it and start tillering. Hope the bug hole holes!
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Turtle, that low brace is lookin nice. Rich, if ya aint breakin ya aint makin. It's just part of bowery, if ya wanna do it you gotta the good with the bad. Ok , i'll stop.😜
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Timothy, lookin good. Like to see how those holes hold up, i got a piece of sage with bug holes just been holdin off on workin it.
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Thanks for kind words guys. With all the dips and bumps this has I have been paying extra attention to my thickness taper. Even used my calipers for the first time in a couple years.
Turtle that is niiiiice! Both ends look perfect in the brace, even with all the snakeys.
How's Otter doing?
Ajooter, thanks!
Otter's doing ok. He's just letting his staves loose a little moisture. I'll give him another week then I'll kick him Into gear. >:D
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Looking good TimothyR. Is that one hole that goes all the way through?
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Update....ERC and hickory partial draws....really need opinions on the ERC I wrapped an area with some small frets with elk sinew then hemp wrapped, should I just hang it up on the wall of shame??-Hammertime(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/f83a56c4-8a9a-4acd-922c-0a2c756657a3_zpspmd1znj1.jpg)
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Looking good TimothyR. Is that one hole that goes all the way through?
Yes sir it does! It makes me nervous!
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Hickory(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/cafe979c-dea6-4fbe-8860-8734f5475622_zpsku91yqkh.jpg)
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I'm tired of chasing rings. 9 so far. I'm thinking of putting it up for awhile and go ahead and start tillering the BL.
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Lookin good hammer....that second one hickory? Is the erc asymmetrical or just canted a little?
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Update....ERC and hickory partial draws....really need opinions on the ERC I wrapped an area with some small frets with elk sinew then hemp wrapped, should I just hang it up on the wall of shame??-Hammertime
In my opinion sinew wraps are good for holdin cracks together and splinters down , but don't think it does much for frets. I have seen bows on this site that had belly patches done in various ways but i have no experience with any of them. The hickory's looking good though.
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Gutshot, that piece of osage still giving you a bad time? maybe the fireplace would teach it a lesson >:D
hammertime, man that little static is off the hook bud
rich
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I'm tired of chasing rings. 9 so far. I'm thinking of putting it up for awhile and go ahead and start tillering the BL.
I am starting to like it too much I think.
Heres the ones I done for this trade at floor tiller at this point L-R: 66" lilac (no ring chased of course), 65" osage, and 63" osage.
Then some more I started in the few weeks prior to the trade so I guess I can't use them in this deal....or can I? HMMM??? One never knows >:D >:D
Guess it's time for some nocks and a tillering extravaganza! Anybody got a great scraper for trade ;D
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Hammertime, don't think I can help you with the first pic. In the second pic, is the bow perfectly vertical? If so, your top limb looks stiff right out of the fade. Sometimes images can fool you though. Look at it from both sides and see what you think.
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Gutshot, that piece of osage still giving you a bad time? maybe the fireplace would teach it a lesson >:D
hammertime, man that little static is off the hook bud
rich
No fire place for this Osage I will make a promise that it will make a bow even if it's only 10lbs
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Hey Hammer, I would be pretty leery of ERC with frets unless I could bring it down to get rid of them completely and get close to the weight still. I love the wood but I have had one explode without a backing and it was dramatic. I wouldn't draw it any further until I got the frets out and even bending limbs, then I'd shorten it a little and sinew it if it was bending nice and had enough left to get a sweet bow from. That's just me though. Liking that hickory though ;)
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Last pic! I'm calling it quits till this weekend! This is at low brace pulling 27#@19". Hopefully it will hold up. What do you guys think about the tiller so far?
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Hey Hammertime, what weight are you pulling on the ERC in that pic?
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Hammertime, top limb is a little stiff but not much. Are the limbs the same length? If they are flip it over and show us the same draw.
TimothyR, I like to use a tillering gizmo at this stage or even a rectangle scraper to check the limbs for bending evenly. My eyes aren't good enough at picking out small discrepancies.
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TimothyR, looks very good except where noted. That area looks like it could develop a hinge......I would watch it closely. Looking super otherwise.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow_zpstqwfwzgm.jpeg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow_zpstqwfwzgm.jpeg.html)
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OK thanks for advice, currently the ERC is 45@ 21",beautiful piece but I just don t trust it any more. The hickory curve has a ways to go, so I have room for adjustment there- Hammertime
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I am glad everyone is posting so many pictures. I am away from home for work this week so can't get into my shop at all. At least I can see all these great pictures of everyone's progress. I should get into my shop this weekend again. Great work everyone.
Mike
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Hammertime - agree with Dubois on the ERC - it can be a fickle wood. I have attempted 2 erc bows. One turned out great and the other blew up into 3 pieces on the tillering tree. The hickory looks great to me!
Dubois - the staves look great. I admire anyone that loves to chase a ring! It is the least favorite part for me. I really have to be in the right frame of mind to do it. :-\
Gutshot - 9 rings? Are you kidding me! :laugh: See above. :laugh:
TR - the tiller is looking pretty good to me. Fred gives good advice on the gizmo. Drewster could be right, but no hinge yet - something to watch.
I was able to do a little work tonight - pictures on the way.
Mitch
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The thumb rest set back off the handle enough where the bow wouldn't quite sit flat on the tillering tree and it didn't feel quite right in the hand so I started a modification. I think it will be look pretty sweet when all is said and done.
Btw...and I don't mind judgment...but this bow is a little better then floor tillered....so there's actually a long way to go...but I keep getting these ideas and they just need to be applied.
Great builds all around fellas!! Always a pleasure reading this post.
(http://i.imgur.com/tVkp7st.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/QvZA3QE.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/n5oiD8D.jpg?1)
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Fred: thanks for the advice! I do have a gizmo so I will get that out this weekend. I think I will back this with some rawhide or cherry bark! I heard some ticks while flexing the limbs. I'm hoping it was nothing. What do you guys think?
drewster: I will watch out for that area. I do believe that that is the bug hole and I won't be taking anymore of that area. Thanks everybody I appreciate the help!
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Glued on some tip overlays last night. Used walnut for a nice contrast with the white hackberry (it is a bit soft, but it will do). Shaped them just enough to file in some grooves so I can get it to brace. I will clean them up and do the final shaping after tillering. Plenty of wood there yet (still 11/16" wide at the base of the grooves).
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Wow, I haven't logged on in a couple days and had quite a few pages of posts to go through. No bow work for me for the past couple days. I'm in the midst of a big project at work, so we have had several longer than normal days at work, and trying to get my taxes finished.... ughh! But I hope to get back to the fun in a couple days and have most of the weekend in the shop.
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Also glued up a riser for the trilam. Hard maple with a walnut strip.
Here is a pic of the bows profile after glue up. Also a front profile picture after cutting out the limb shape.
Try and cut the riser tomorrow...maybe?
ajooter - that zebra wood looks awesome!
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Couldn't sleep real good last night all I had on my mind was that stinking Osage. So I got up early and finally got both limbs chased down to the same ring. Next I will get the natural tip overlays done and the forward handle. Also do a final lay out of the bow and get it down to limb width. Shave the limb thickness down to 1/2". And ready for floor tiller. Maybe by Friday I can get more pics posted of this #%^>€¥ of a bow.
TimothyR looking good
Hammer time stick with the hickory
Mitch I want to learn how to do tip overlays like that always been a little scared to do those
Ajooter that handle is still awesome even though you got to modify it. (Should've made you a new tiller tree) lol😃
Everybody else keep up the good work
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ajooter, I missed your pic of the bow in the mirror at the bottom of page 66. That's looking great!! And I'm going out to find me a mirror just like that one.
I went to bed at 9 last night and woke up about midnight feeling refreshed so I started on Pg 1 and read thru all of the posts to date although I will admit to just scanning the last 10 pages.
I found a few mistakes I made
#1 and my biggest concern is that when I sent your victims names to you I inadvertently sent some of you your own specs instead of who you are building for.
SO, if the person you are building for has the same specs as you BEWARE. I may have errored. I found 3 of these and believe That is all of them but please double check me just to make sure
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Fred, I'm positive my victims specs aint my own 8)
rich
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I'm good on my specs Fred. There not mine.
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I got the right guy and specs too.
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Mitch, I love that profile!
I have considered gluing a handle on my lilac but I'm sure it would come out with bad lines and looking rough.
How do you guys get the glue lines so tight on anything besides a board to board glue up?
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Mitch, I love that profile!
I have considered gluing a handle on my lilac but I'm sure it would come out with bad lines and looking rough.
How do you guys get the glue lines so tight on anything besides a board to board glue up?
Belt sander. ;)
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Specs I got definitely aren't mine. :)
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No real progress to speak of the last couple of week. Busy work schedule and far too windy on the little free time I've had lately. More than likely I'll have to dig out plan B. The ERC decided to start letting go a bit while the sinew was pulling tight drying. One limb reflexed about 1" the other pulled about 3" but that because that limb developed some cracks on the belly and one on the side letting the limb pull more. I shot in some super glue to hopefully hold the cracks from opening more. But who knows, it could all work out once the tillering begins on it, or I'll get a nice explosion of wood and sinew.
On the plus side, one of my snakes is heavily into shed so I should have a good piece of decoration for the bow soon. I definitely want to do a molle and I have the decorations all figured out already. Turkey body feathers for the working portion with snake sheds on the levers for a scaly look. I just gotta get the bow working so I can decorate it.
Kyle
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I'm spec free. The specs i got r not mine, close but not mine.
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I double checked my guys specs against what he posted and I am good to go.
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Just a quick update from me:
Work has also gotten the better of me this past week and a half , so I haven't made a lot of progress on the bow. I did get some Smooth On ,though, and work has gotten a little lighter. I'm optimistic that if I can't take an extra day off this week to do some other errands (and work on the bow!), I will definitely have time this weekend.
Also, the specs I got for my trade are different from my own, too.
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Got a couple of questions on my bow. I want to do scalloped edges, but I'm undecided on whether I want one side only or both sides to be symetrical. SO, you folks who have a lot of knowledge in regards to eastern Indian tribes and bows in general.
- Which tribes made bows with scalloped edges? I have researched a little and it looks like the Mohawk, Potowatomi, and Iroquois did, at least a little, but mostly for ceremony or decoration.
- What do I need to watch out for, will the scallops cause a stress point? Will only doing one side, or doing both symetrically, alleviate that or aggravate it?
- If I do scallops, I was thinking of doing a little V notch in each 'scallop tip', and then wrapping a little yucca or sinew fiber around the bow as a bit of decoration. But, will the V notch cause a stress point?
- Im also toying with the nothion of making a yucca string for the bow. I will make another one out of modern material too, as a backup, but I've not made a yucca bowstring. Any tips on this?
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(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/4B02E8FC-EE9C-4A9A-A782-4AE6751D365B_zps4wqan0kn.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/4B02E8FC-EE9C-4A9A-A782-4AE6751D365B_zps4wqan0kn.jpg.html)
Got mine finished but it wasent wanting to go to 28 with this nasty knot.. I'm going to start a new one with a cleaner stave. Won't have my phone for a while so will do my best to post pics.
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Mr. Sidmand,
Regards the scalloped bows....Most all of the Iroquois Nation used them, as did the Algonquian Language group (Odawa, Chippewa, Pottawatomie, Ho Chunk, Menominii, and most of the Great Lakes area like the Shawnee.
Scalloped bows were known by all of these Native Americans....but they also knew of straight bows, double curved bows etc. Elders have advised me that bows of this type are not much different than whites who have a fancy for different types of fireams....the style of bow was not wrote in stone it was a matter of personal choice of the carrier. By the way, the same can be said for the lack of grip wraps on most eastern bows....most were not but that does not mean that some did wrap theirs as a personal preference.
How the scallops are deployed is usually a give-away as to nation and/or tribe. Some were scalloped all the way up one side (with or without a scallop at the grip) and the size of them makes a difference.....some were on opposite sides one side upper limb and the opposite on lower limb. The only scalloped bows that I know of scalloped up both sides would be the Odawa (in their home territory and single sided for those few displaced to Oklahoma)
The best way to make them is to shape your front profile, then draw a line in 1/4" from the edge, lay out the scallop pattern, then cut them in no deeper than 1/4" line. Then the scalloped edge(S) should be thinned slightly like the back and belly have a "low crown" section. Then go back and cut the separation "v" ....do not make them deeper than the scallops, about 1/2 to 1/3 the depth is correct. If you are not 100% confident in your cutting of the V's (so you dont leave any sharp stop cuts) then I recommend the use of a file to make them........when all that is done make sure to smooth anything that even resembles a sharp edge.
Only other thing is if your scallops are cut already when you scrape the belly to finish tiller be careful or you scraper will make a whoopty-do at every peak of the scallops so make sure to have your "low crown" going on.
rich
forgot to say....most all eastern woodland bows had raw-hide strings, a few had bark strings, and I have not seen one with a fiber string (doesn't mean that there never was any however)
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The specs I have are different than mine... I looked at the guy who I drew, and they match up.... So everything is good here.
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Managed to get half an hour in! Rounded over the edges and started hollowing the limb; lined the cheeks of the joint as well, though it will need refining.
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/02/image4.jpeg)
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/02/image5.jpeg)
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That is an interesting looking joint you have there SITM! I don't think I've ever seen one quite like it before. Is that for a permanent joint or a take down?
OneBow
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Got it to low brace yesterday, so today went all over the belly and sides with the scraper to remove all tool marks. Then I sanded the belly and sides withe 80 grit then went to 200 over the entire bow. Then I started increasing brace highth. At each increase I would scrape any stiff spots I found and then go back over those spots with the sand paper again. This keeps me from loosing too much weight at the end when doing final sanding. Anyway I got it out to a 6 inch brace and am ready to start exercising and stretching the draw out.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160210_125906543.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160210_125837504.jpg)
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Thank you half eye! That is very very helpful! I have not done the layout yet, I will try that in the next day or so, got church tonight, maybe tomorrow night. Right now my staves are right at 1 1/2 inches wide, but they are still very thick, probably close to 2 inches thick, I haven't removed much belly wood at all. I'm thinking/hoping with Osage that I can make a couple bendy handle scalloped bows that are around 1 1/4 wide but scalloped at least on one side, so the tips of the scallops would be 1 1/2 or so. Got to draw it out and see.
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Take down, was hoping the joint would be a tight interference fit and only need one bolt but the interference isn't tight enough and either needs an offset key or twin bolts or an offset bolt to jam it tight. Am thinking there's not enough timber depth for a key, offset bolts are a pain in the neck and always cross thread so twin bolts are probably the way forward. May work up an antler plate instead of washers.
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Turtle, man I got to tell ya....you got a natural talent for tillering those "natural" condition staves, hats off to ya man 8) 8)
Sidmand, if you have any particular tribe/band in mind I'll see if I have a pic of one......I did post nearly all the bow pics I had....dont know if they were kept or not but ya could also check on that....but I do have a few left on my computer.
rich
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Finally got started! Took me a bit to get the proper tools, namely a couple of wedges, but I've split my first log! And it only cost me one sledgehammer! >;/ At least I was mostly done with cracking the log open, and for the rest of it I just used the sledge head like a nicely shaped rock and whacked it onto the wedges. The Black Locust log had a big crack in it already started so with Fred and Richard's advice I started with that one instead of the super solid Ironwood logs. Looking at the two halves, it seems that they both have a crack started on them, am I right in thinking I should split those off and possibly get a couple of kids bows out of them? There's quite a hook at one end of the thinner (left) half, but since the log is nearly 90" long I think I have some room to work with.
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I think you'll be fine. Rich has experience with black locust, I've never used it but understand it is similar in quality to osage. The small split offs should be fine for lighter weight kids bows. The rings look nice. Someone will be along shortly to help you proceed with that nice looking stave. It should make an excellent bow.
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Ranasp,
I dont have a lot of experience with black locust, but there certainly are fellas on here that do.
As to the "off splits", those natural cracks are stress relief when she dried up. Just split it off to determine what you have exactly so you can pick your layout section of the main stave.
Glad to see you slingin chips
rich
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half eye: no particular tribe in mind really, just a style of bow in my head that wants to come out and manifest itself in some wood. I still toying with it and shaping it in my head since I can't get to my tools yet, that comes this weekend (maybe, hopefully). I might sinew back the bow, I have a little over 4 ounces of deer leg sinew unprocessed, for you guys who have pounded sinew, do you think 8 or so deer leg sinew would be enough to sinew back a bow?
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I would split it right right where its showing you it wants to split at anyway. Looks like there's a few bows in that log.
Turtle, man I got to tell ya....you got a natural talent for tillering those "natural" condition staves, hats off to ya man 8) 8)
Thanks Rich, but I dont think I have anymore talent than anyone else in this trade. Maybe a little more experience than some but not talent. I have been fortunate enough to meet quite a few realy good bow builders from this site and not only learn by watching them but have them step in and help me. Also advice and encouragement from many others on this site that im sure I will never meet. This is the 4th trade ive been in and I have learned something new each time from the bows I received just by studying them and seeing how the builder wrked around problems in a different way than I would have. Thats what makes these trades so great.
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Hey guys, help Ranasp and myself out here if you would. Do you have to chase a ring on black locust or can you use the sapwood back?
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I'm almost positive that you should chase a ring on black locust. I say almost because I have never used BL, but everything I have ever read on here or elsewhere says chase a ring and use the heartwood.
Hey guys, help Ranasp and myself out here if you would. Do you have to chase a ring on black locust or can you use the sapwood back?
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You should remove the sapwood with black locust like you do with osage. The heartwood is the preferred wood with BL.
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Most people chase a ring but I have seen sapwood bl bows posted on here before.
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Ranasp strip that sap wood off find you a good ring to chase you want to lay that bow out to at least 2" if you possibly can. One good thing to remember BL LOVES TO BE HEATED slowly don't scorch it
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Definitely chase a ring and remove sapwood!
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I've done three surface wood locusts and two chased Smallwood ring locusts for the two-tone effect but really the best way to use it in my experience is to chase the first heart wood ring you're comfortable with and try to cut off a belly stave ;)
Those small splits can actually be turned into full strength shorties if you're so inclined, short narrow bendy numbers are my second favorite to build. Heat treating and flat faces are your friends.
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Thank you Marc
rich
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I agree with chasing a ring with BL and that it does like heat. A few pages back you can see the reflex I got from heat treating BL. It was straight before I took my heat gun to the belly. My first BL Bow really surprised me with how little wood I needed. It is good bow wood.
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Rich thanks you just made a little girls day. We had snow today so the kids stayed home from school. The mailman brought a package to the door and she opened it and found the bow you made her. She was sending me pics of it and as soon as I got home she was ready to shoot so off to the basement we went. That little bow will smoke her arrows. They are 7/16 Dahl rods with turkey feathers. Thanks again. Paul
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Well, she is an exceptional young lady and I'm glad she likes it....and glad to know her.
rich
I forgot to say that the skins were given by DuBois, and the rawhide was given by Oglala Bowyer so thanks you fellas also.
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What a great team effort to help a young archer......congrats to all!
Here ya go Gutshot
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Gift%20bow_zpsz9lrvlre.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Gift%20bow_zpsz9lrvlre.jpg.html)
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Way to go Rich. :)
Gutshot........ I hope your arrow holder wasn't recycled. >:D >:D
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(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160210_172903_zpsbyjkqfbe.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160210_172903_zpsbyjkqfbe.jpg.html)
Got some more work done today. Thinned the limbs down some....
The left limb obviously has a hinge. That little spot is giving me trouble.... I used the draw knife to scrape away some wood, and It broke off a big chunk.... Guess I'll be using the rasp for the rest of it. It I still pretty heavy, so I'm not too worried. The picture was taken with the right limb bent to 6". I think the left limb is still stiffer. Once I get rid of that hinge, they should be pretty equal...
This is FUN! ;)
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Looking at it closer, it appears the right limb close to the fades is starting to hinge? Or is that just me?
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Good man Rich!
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This is FUN! ;)
That's the attitude!
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David.... looking pretty good. Maybe my eyes are just tired but I cant see a hinge on the right limb. I would work work a little between the gouged spot and the fade on the left limb and check it again. You might be surprised at how much better that will make the hinge look.
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Awesome bow Rich, u are the man! David , just work both sides of that hinge , slowly. Remove a lil and check it and so on. You'll be fine. The right limb maybe about 4" out from handle, maybe. Just keep an eye on it.
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David,
I agree with Mr. Turtle.....I put some marks on your picture (hope thats OK)
1. The orange line is where you need to make it move a little more....do that first
2. The green line might be a tad stiff.....but wait till you get the orange moving first.....then if still looks a little bit "flat" where the green take a little bit off there.
Like turtle said you are gonna be surprised how little bit of wood taken off will change things so go slow and check often.....you have pleanty of wood yet so please dont over pull it or you will cause set that's not necessary......just pull enough to see if the left limb shape is improving and no more.
Keep posting pictures sir.....it helps these fellas see what is happening while there is still time to fix any mistakes....or maybe keep you from making one. Knoll said it ....ya got the right attitude, sir.
rich
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David, you got some good direction above. Just don't forget to exercise the limbs 40-50 times after you remove wood. Then you can see how the wood reacts to your adjustment. Patience. Work slowly. Look at it. Look at it. Patience. You'll get her bending like a champ.
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Man everybody's bows are coming on. It's along time till Aug 1st.
Drewster how did you make my pic look normal. I'm still having trouble with my pics.
Turtle we always recycle including are arrow holders
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Ok Rich threw in a surprise in with the award bow. I still can't say what kind it is but this little iron wood double bow is smoking fast and fun to shoot. I put around 50 arrows through it tonight. And my 15 yr old son has laid claim to it. I don't know how many he shot. But it was quit a few. But any ways thanks Rich again your a very giving man.
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Did a little tillering tonight...tiller isn't quite even and I still need to tweek my alignment some more. I may have cut the rest a little deep so straightening at the handle may be a little dicy but there always plan b ;D
It's at about a 4" brace and pulling 30#@14".
(http://i.imgur.com/VPBJxlh.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/LkiyPNk.jpg?1)
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What a great team effort to help a young archer......congrats to all!
Here ya go Gutshot
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Gift%20bow_zpsz9lrvlre.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Gift%20bow_zpsz9lrvlre.jpg.html)
I love to see this!! Hope my girl and boy want to keep at this as they grow up.
PS: Gut you lucky devil you!
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Thumbs up Rich! You and all the others in the group make me happy I jumped in!
David - If you get a chance, a pic of the unbraced bow along side of the pic where you are pulling on the tree makes it easier to determine whats going on with the bow. You probably have one posted here somewhere - but we are up to 80 pages!! :laugh: Depending on the unbraced profile that "hinge" may not be as obvious as you think.
Didn't get any work done tonight on the bows - meeting at school. :(
Mitch
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Gutshot, I saved your image to my hard drive, used one of my photo software programs to rotate it and then reposted. Just took a couple of minutes.
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Did a little tillering tonight...tiller isn't quite even and I still need to tweek my alignment some more. I may have cut the rest a little deep so straightening at the handle may be a little dicy but there always plan b ;D
It's at about a 4" brace and pulling 30#@14".
(http://i.imgur.com/VPBJxlh.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/LkiyPNk.jpg?1)
Ajooter bow is looking good. And what's up with the Hoyt shirt on a PA website. Just agrivating ya! I have a Mathews shirt on here at work.
It's at about a 4" brace and pulling 30#@14".
(http://i.imgur.com/VPBJxlh.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/LkiyPNk.jpg?1)
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David I was going to mention that the interlocking grain of HHB often can lead to tear outs if your draw knife starts splitting rather than cutting. That's about the only drawback with that wood I've noticed so far. Watch the blade angle and keep it sharp. Looks like there's still plenty of wood left though. I usually switch from the draw knife to a surform pocket plane after the rough out is finished. I like to modify the blade a little so it takes off more wood. If you take a small flat pointed file and do 2-3 pushes from the inside in each little hole, you'd be surprised by the improvement. It looks like it would take far longer than it actually does, maybe 10 minutes but well worth it.
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Well I made up for the splinter, kinda-sorta. Decided that with a bunch of weight I'm going from a Penobscott to one of the Iroquois types of single bows, got that cutout and just passed floor tiller.
Dont know about the rest of you fellas but we are in the middle of a series of winter storms at 3 days and a couple more to go, and averaging 10-12 inches a day :o But I did manage to get this much done after diggin out the shed for the umpteenth time >:D
rich
PS I agree Dakota, I have to cut mine out with a saw but from then on it's hand tools, meaning rasps and files then sanding blocks.....yup, Ironwood will let you know the minuet your tools get dull....but it makes a hell of a bow.
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Rich, Those pictures make me glad I'm living in S.Crolina >:D By the way that looks like some kinda heavy beast your pulling ;)
Don
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Mr. Burchett, We have had a easy winter compared to the usual, but this is getting old right here >:D
Ya that thing is definitely in the "stand on the string" range for sure. 8) 8)
rich
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Rich, you've funneled off all our normal winter snow before it gets here. Plowed once this winter, and that wasn't even worth it - 3". But I wanted to start the old tractor because it's been sitting for months.
Looking forward to your bow build!
Dakota, that's a neat tip, sharpening a sureform -- I'm going to have to try it!
Gutshot, the bow looks real good now. I sure hope the handle works out.
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God morning,
The work on the lilac has been going slow. I've been taking a lot of belly wood off the last few days but it's still very stiff. I found some posts by "sumpitan" and I guess he makes bows that pull 45# out off thumb wide 48" lilac sticks. After reading that I realized I'm gonna have to reduce my stave a whole lot. Mine is now 1 7/8 wide across the belly, 1/2"-5/8" thick, 60" long and about 44" working limb. I've decided to sinew the back for extra security. My question is if I should try to keep the width and work mostly on thickness? Right now I got 50# at 3".
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8256.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8256.jpg.html)
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Mr. Andersson,
You have yourself a balancing act here.....the sinew is going to add enough performance that you have to consider BOTH factors that you mentioned. If you leave the limbs wide and sinew you run the risk of having to tiller wood away on the belly to the point of making them too thin.....BUT....if you narrow the limbs width first you need to be carefull that you leave enough to guarantee enough surface area so that the sinew doesn't "pop" off.
I have never built a sinew bow, but have worked on some, so my advise would be to study up on width vs thickness......then reduce width, then sinew, have enough wood to finish the belly tillering process.
That is not a whole lot of help, and maybe some of the guys who know about the process can give a more direct answer.
rich
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jandersson, that's pretty interesting about the thumb wide 48" 45# lilac bows. But I'm wondering what is their draw length?
I guess a lot depends on what you need for your trade guy's draw. I see you have 44" working limbs total because of the stiff tips. And the reflex right out of the handle is going to make bringing to brace hard to start with.
Just to give you a thickness data point, black birch, which has a similar very high stiffness, runs about 3/8" thick mid limb, on a 2" wide non-lever 64" 40# bow. No backing. I don't know the quality of the 44" working section of yours, so don't know why the backing. Not making any recommendations one way or the other at all in this, just giving you info to add to your cogitations when considering draw length, width and thickness.
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I think when you "sharpen" the surform blades, most of the improvement comes from bending as apposed to sharpening. The file pushes those little blades out a smidgen and changes the blade angle. This allows it to scoop and lift more wood with each pass.
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Oh, okay Dakota, I get it -- I was wondering about whether a file could sharpen, because I figured the sureform blade was hardened. Makes sense. Thanks!
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Fellas, thought I'd catch you up on the latest bow....there are pics of the front and side profiles and a couple of "floor tiller" pics ::) I'm nearly ready to brace it up and check tiller and weight.
rich
2 sets of pics and also a shot of my files and rasps
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second pics
The first "draw" pic you can see the left limb is stiff and the second ya can see it coming around
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That bow is looking good there Rich. I'd like to he the story's all those rasps and files could tell.
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Gutshot....yes sir, a couple of them is older than me....they probably got up to no good way before I got 'em >:D......ya sure
rich
Hope your sonr and daughter still crankin them bows back....is she getting used to the "fat" grip yet?
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Alright, I followed the cracks that were already in the wood and now have something a bit closer to staves, albeit sloppy ones. First pic shows the four splits I got, the rightmost and leftmost seem to be the ones to go for now. Narrowing it down to those two, I don't like how blurry the ring looks on the right one although it's off to the right side of it and it looks like there's plenty of material to work with on the left of it. The leftmost stave looks (to my uneducated eye) to be the best of the lot, the rings look regular and clean.
On all of them I can clearly see where the sapwood is a different color from the heartwood. So I should just knock off about the outermost three rings? (yeah, "just"! I'm sure it will be that simple. )
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Ranasp, looks either one will work very well....but for your first I would recommend going with your first instinct. Also if you have picked out the "bow part" of it cut her down to close to size and save some ring chasing....if not then chase the whole thing and then decide, getting the sapwood off will also give a more concise view of what you have for sure.
As an aside: those logs were cut a long time ago, meaning to get a good judgement of rings it would behoove you to make a fresh cut on the ends (saw off a thin slab) so you can get an accurate opinion.
rich
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Gutshot....yes sir, a couple of them is older than me....they probably got up to no good way before I got 'em >:D......ya sure
rich
Hope your sonr and daughter still crankin them bows back....is she getting used to the "fat" grip yet?
Oh ya her hand and the bow has become one.
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As an aside: those logs were cut a long time ago, meaning to get a good judgement of rings it would behoove you to make a fresh cut on the ends (saw off a thin slab) so you can get an accurate opinion.
rich
You're quite right, they were cut some time ago and left to cure in a corn crib. I'll knock off the ends and see what comes up.
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Ranasp on that black locus, I always hatchet that sap wood and bark off. Also BL is notorious for pin knots. I don't worry a thing about the ones In The sap wood but when you get a chasing a ring make sure you don't violate it around the knots. I just put a circle about the size of a quarter Around them and leave all of that. tyen after I finish my ring up I go back and ease off that wood around those pin knots.
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OK fellas,
When I was working the bow on the floor the one limb was slightly stiff just inside the recurve. So I slowly worked that to a point where it looked like even bends at a low brace...then bent it some more and rechecked and needed a slight tweek but got it so I was happy with the evenness of the bends. (took 3 pics the first 2 are before the final tweek with the bow inverted from pic to pic.....then the last bow pic is after I felt satisfied with the profile.
At this point since I want at least 70# @ 30 inch I needed to get an idea about where I was weight wise. I'm going to explain how I go about that (at this point) please dont think I'm professing it...it is just the way I do it.
Since I dont want to induce unnecessary set or other damage here at low brace I like to have an idea of what the bow should be at lower weight draw. What I do is say I want 70# @ 30 so I take 2/3 of both numbers.....2/3 of weight is 47# and 2/3 of draw is 20" so as a guide I worked the bow back to 50# which occured at 17 inches.....so I'm going to stop pulling the bow any further untill I sand down the belly (tiller) and the weight comes into range at 20" of draw.....then I'll work it back more untill I hit full draw.
Many not be the normal way but it works for me.
rich
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grateful for your working methods, Rich. It definitely helps.
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PlanB,
I am sort of reluctant sometimes because I dont want to get someone on the wrong footing. Personally, my tillering improved greatly when I stopped chasing "miniature" corrections. By that I mean instead of working small areas to fix perceived problems I started looking at the bow as a whole thing. Like if ya see a hinge starting by starting on the strong limb you can get a true picture of the remaining hinge that actually needs to be corrected......but if you go right for the hinge and get it straightened out then go to the strong limb you wind up removing way more wood than was truly necessary.
When one limb bends more than the other, as you weaken the strong you are simultaneously strengthening the other and the limb bends start "coming together". That is pretty straightforward....but keep that in mind also when looking at localized problems such as hinges and stiff spots.
Essentially my mind is looking at the tree line and not so much the individual tree, if that makes any sense.
rich
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half eye, PlanB:
I was going to sinew it because of a bunch of pin knots on the back that I don't trust also I need to get it to an pretty decent DL. Would you recommend tone down the reflex a little? I already took it down to 3" and was hoping to tiller some out of it or is that a bad thing to do? I want to make it a bendy handle would that affect what I want to do with the reflex? And my last question just to double check, when the bow is on the tillering tree you measure the DL from belly side of the handle right?
Thanks for all your patience guys!
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Mr. Andersson,
No patience involved sir. Was just trying to keep you from paintin yourself into a corner is all. If the backing is a matter of insurance against the pin knots you could back it with thin rawhide, or silk, or some such......if sinew is what you have then use it. If you do go with the sinew go only one good layer and maybe a small band down the center of the long axis (would be a narrow second layer).
By having the small localized center reflex you may not get all of it come out as you draw the bow which is no big deal as the bow could be tillered into the classic 5 curve (gullwing) shape. My only concern is that by using sinew you are increasing draw weight and performance....if you go with something like rawhide then the bow is basically a protected self bow and would be easier for you to tiller out in the normal fashion.
Wait to see what PlanB has to say because he may have a better idea for you.
rich
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Ok... I'm at a stopping point. I almost have the hinge gone, but I've got a new problem...
One of the limbs is more reflexed than the other. It's almost 2" more reflexed than the other. I have been talking with another bowyer, and he told me to reflex the not reflexed limb to be equal with the other. He also said to wipe Olive oil on the spot I was going to heat, then heat it so it did not burn the wood. My question is... Is that what I should do? Also, we're should I heat the limb to do this?
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David,
Please put up a couple of pics, nobody can give you advice blind.....thanks bud
rich
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Not at all Rich -- I don't have a worthwhile opinion on backing at all. My only thought was it seemed like a short working section. But I don't know the draw length, wood properties, with or without backing, so maybe it's fine. If the lilac and backing combo can handle the handle reflex plus the stiff tips on that 22" per limb working section for the draw length, then it would be a very fast bow, I bet. I'm not radical enough in the bows I've built to know, so still worried about chrysaling and compression problems in unbacked black birch. It maay not be the best wood to compare with lilac either. Kind of an unknown I'm just finding out about.
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I will get you some in a minute Rich.
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PlanB....Mr. Andersson....upon reflection and considering the sharp grip reflex maybe you should go with the sinew and maybe two complete layers.....not on account of the pin knots mind but rather because of the high stress design.
Thanks David it will help a lot
rich
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(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160211_181242_zpsy7gcmcrr.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160211_181242_zpsy7gcmcrr.jpg.html)
Here ya go. The left limb goes straight out, but the right limb is reflexed a little.. (I think I'm saying that right)
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David,
your terminology is correct. It looks to me that the right limb gained the reflex from relief of stress in the tree and you have released enough wood for it to stabilize in the reflexed position. To correct the balance reflexing the left limb to match is the way to go......I would steam to do that but if you are equipped to use dry heat then by all means do so.....but remember that when you heat treat the left limb you will be making stronger as well so you will also want to do the right one. Make a simple jig byt putting the bow down on it's back with a block of wood under the middle of the grip....then clamp down the right limb at it's tip....now clamp the left limb tip so the profiles match.....then go to the oil and heat.
I do not dry heat so maybe one of the other fellas in the trade who has experience with that can walk you through the process.
PA has a lot of knowledgeable people so if someone with experience wants to help ya then take the help.
rich
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Awesome. Thanks! I am done for tonight, but maybe I'll get to it this weekend.
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And my last question just to double check, when the bow is on the tillering tree you measure the DL from belly side of the handle right?
Thanks for all your patience guys!
I have always measured from the back of the bow at the handle. AMO standards for draw length is measured from belly side of handle then add 1.75 inches to it.
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Turtle, thanks man...the old guy lost that one in the shuffle ::) ::)
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David, it's also hard to tell in the photo because the handle and back aren't level. Is the top of the tree where the handle rests level? It should be or it will throw you off when tillering
If I lay a straightedge across the back on my screen I see a little more reflex out of the grip on the right, but then it deflexes back mid limb.
I like Rich's 5 minute steam bending for the early inner limb corrections now that I've tried it, because it won't alter the belly stiffness the way dry heat will. On the bow I'm working on now, I used dry heat at the tips a little further into tillering because I wanted to stiffen as well as bend them. I liked the combo. But like rich said, others have more experience and possibly better suggestions.
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Anybody working on buckthorn in this trade?
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Marco, I do not believe so sir. Hell of a bow wood I hear
rich
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IMHO Badly Bent is the Buckthorn King................
DBar
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Beautiful bows, those.
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PlanB, I have checked that thing a couple of times... It should be level. I will check again next time I'm out there.
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here's some pics fellas. Ironwood, 48# @ 28". I put some wraps on temporarily, just to get some opinions. There's a little character to it, the top limb looks a little off on the tiller, but thats where the twist gets started. I'm thinking it going to work, but let me know what you all think. this is plan a, I'll get started on plan b after I get some other projects done. Thanks for the input guys!
Tattoo Dave
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Dave,
sweet bend right there sir.....I marked on your pic where you may consider a couple scrapes, not too much though. Character ironwood is hard to judge in a pic so I may be off on this.
rich
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TD that iron wood is looking good the blue wraps look good too.
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Tattoo, that looks really cool. One day i'm gonna learn to make a bendy. David, Rich lookin good. Got my hackberry tips recurved and now letting sut for awhile, prolly gonna temper the belly tomorrow. Will post pics tomorrow.
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Hey tattoo: how long is that HHB? Looking good and I like the colors!
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Thanks guys! Rich, you may be right. At the bottom of that line you drew, there's a decent size knot on the belly side that fell out, then I filled it with epoxy. So I didn't want to bend it too much on either side of it. The knot is about 1/4" around, and was maybe 1/8" deep.
Tattoo Dave
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Stix, a bendy handle bow is the easiest to make in my opinion. I like them for the simplicityof design and ease of build.
Dubois, it's 63" tip to tip. Widest spot is 1 and 3/8th" mostly1 and 1/4" wide though. Get wider just at spots of big lumps and bumps near handle. The thickness varies a bit too, but for the most part is 5/8" at the handle, and tapers to 3/8" at the tips.
Tattoo Dave
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Dave - like the bend and like the wraps. Well done!
Forgot my update :-[.....
Glued the riser on the trilam just before supper - won't be ready to unclamp until tomorrow evening. I somehow got just a tiny twist when I glued up the limbs. It made it tough to get really clean lines between the riser and the limbs. Did the best I could and hopefully it should not be too bad.
Worked on tillering the hackberry for about an hour and half. Going slow! Went from the long string to a very low brace of 1". Limbs look even. 40# at 13".
Will take some pics this weekend.
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It's been one of those days... frustrating day at work fixing other people's messes, stressful meetings, behind schedule, etc... Working on the bow was a necessary therapy tonight.
Got the limbs thinned down to the ready-for-floor-tiller stage, and used heat to straighten the handle somewhat to help get the tips in alignment. On the last turn of the C-clamp handle, I elicited a cracking sound from the wood, so of course I stopped right there. Then heard another slight crack a few seconds later :(
The wood was hot and was relatively easy to move. I had put a small piece of wood between the handle and the C-clamp to protect the bow, so I am really hoping it was that piece and not the bow making the sound. At that point I am done for the night... Even though I cringed and am worried about it, this was still good therapy for a crummy day at work.
I will take it off the clamps tomorrow and see if there is any damage. Hope I don't have to switch to a backup stave.
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It appears a lot of guys are making good progress........keep it roll'in. Like Loope, I got my hickory stave limbs thinned down ready to floor tiller. The crook at the handle returned while drying the stave more in my hot box, so I re-steamed it this morning and have it clamped. I'll unclamp it in the morning and hope it holds this time. Floor tillering time tomorrow.
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Hey Dave,
I must have missed the knot fill part, being ironwood and all thats the way to deal with it, so disregard my earlier, bet it shoots just fine sir.
Loope, I agree on the therapy thing as well, just something about woodworking 8)
rich
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half eye: I'll have a deeper look into the 5 curve/ gullwing design this weekend design. I had a quick look at them and must say they're pretty sexy.
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ja........
Once you have a specific shape ya want to do.....make sure to heat in the mid-limb deflex before you sinew. The reason for that is give the bow some stability. By that I mean by having a steep (sharp) reflex at the center and your tips so far forward if you do not bring the tips back some you wont be able to string the bow in the normal manner.....if you can string it and have it stay it will take two people....one to bend it over thier knee and the other to set the string.
By deflexing at mid limb you will gain back some of the inherant stabilty and avoid the 2 man thing. This will also make your tillering a whole lot easier......the sinew will give you all the power you could ask for so try to get the bow stable first.....it's still going to be strong. Dont ask how I know this >:D >:D
rich
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Rich ya been gettin any sleep bud?
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Some here and there, sir >:D >:D >:D
rich
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David,
Unless I missed it no one posted a dry heat method yet. Here's how I go about it. Clamp your stave with the limb you want reflexed to your workbench, leaving the handle and other limb hanging off into empty space. The way you want it to bend should be down the floor, gravity is your friend. The place where you want the bend to occur should be just off the edge of the table. Make sure your clamps have a good hold. Take a gallon jug full of water and hang it on the limb that's off the table. Put it somewhere in the middle to start. The closer you get to the tip the greater the downward force. Try to rig up a yardstick next to the milk jug so you can measure the movement. Apply veg oil, crisco, tallow, or some other oil to the area you'll be bending. The wood will bend without it, but it really cuts down on scorching and helps to hold the heat a little longer. Fire up your heat gun and take aim. Stay around 6" away and don't hold the heat in the same spot for too long. Heat the back, front, and sides for a couple minutes. If you see the oil start to bubble you're getting close to scorching, but that's right where the best movement occurs. If the weight of the jug alone isn't doing the job you can slide it closer to the tip, but you have to remember to check your yardstick measurement again for the new starting point. Often I just push gently on the limb with the jug. It should bend long before it feels like it doesn't want to move anymore. If it won't move easily keep heating. If the area being heated is pretty thick you may have to reapply oil if you see it dry out. After it moves the desired amount stop heating and wipe excess oil with a rag. This will help to cool the area and stop the movement as well. I leave it in the clamps for a couple hours or overnight if it's my second attempt, because sometimes your corrections don't hold and the limb creeps back to the original shape. You should make your bend a little bit farther than your target distance because there will be some creep back, maybe a 1/2 inch to an inch. Go slow and remember you can try it again in the same spot as many times as you need to as long as you don't burn the spot.
I think I covered it all. Let me know if you have a question. I won't be home until after dinner though. I know there was a good tutorial on dry heat somewhere if you want to look it up and read that as well. The more info to cross reference the better.
Rich,
Have you ever used one of those hand held steam cleaners to do your bending. It's a nice way to avoid setting up in the kitchen. Plus they put out 20 times more steam than a pot of water. I rarely steam, but when I do I'm glad I have that little thing.
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Well darn, I'm not having any success with the short time steaming on my hickory handle. I took it out of the form this morning after steaming it yesterday and it has already started moving back to it original shape. I'll steam it for the third time after lunch and try 35 or 40 minutes this time......and leave it in the form clamped for four or five days. Maybe the third try with have some charm. The small part of the handle I'm trying to bend is an inch wide and 2" think. Guess in just needs more time in the sauna.
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Dakota, never tried one of them.....sounds like it might be worth a shot.
Drewster, sorry it isn't working for you, maybe need the heat gun?
rich
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Rich, steam has worked for me in the past on hickory but I have been steaming it a lot longer. I'll keep at it til it works :-)
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Dakota
do you heat more underneath or on the top?
I seem to remember that heating the inside of the bend, worked sooner than heating the outside, on arrows.
williw
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ja........
Once you have a specific shape ya want to do.....make sure to heat in the mid-limb deflex before you sinew. The reason for that is give the bow some stability. By that I mean by having a steep (sharp) reflex at the center and your tips so far forward if you do not bring the tips back some you wont be able to string the bow in the normal manner.....if you can string it and have it stay it will take two people....one to bend it over thier knee and the other to set the string.
By deflexing at mid limb you will gain back some of the inherant stabilty and avoid the 2 man thing. This will also make your tillering a whole lot easier......the sinew will give you all the power you could ask for so try to get the bow stable first.....it's still going to be strong. Dont ask how I know this >:D >:D
rich
C'mon Rich, tell us how ya know this >:D >:D
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Hey fellas,
Here is one reason why the old guy is kind of slow....5 days straight of snow, last 3 are accompanied by 30-35 mph wind, wind chills down to about -20 degrees. Diggin out twice a day. Explicative deleted >:D >:D Visibility down to about 800 feet.
rich
Mr. DuBois....no sir
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I know how you feel Rich,,, no snow here but this bitter cold is driving me crazy!!!- Hammertime
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Aw come on you guys, it hasn't fallen below +3 degrees C (37F) much more than a half dozen times here this winter and we haven't had more than an inch of snow in several years - your pictures are killing me! Need to build a snowman and go sledding sooo bad - haven't had a snowday off work for 3 winters :( >:D
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(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/5D2DA3A5-44D1-466F-96EF-CF0CA0411599_zpsizaiso3u.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/5D2DA3A5-44D1-466F-96EF-CF0CA0411599_zpsizaiso3u.jpg.html)(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/79E3AC0A-50A9-46B7-BA2A-BE33EEBB7135_zpslt6svf35.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/79E3AC0A-50A9-46B7-BA2A-BE33EEBB7135_zpslt6svf35.jpg.html)(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/EE9E7AB1-5D83-44E5-B047-0DC8B89BDDC4_zps74v17r13.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/EE9E7AB1-5D83-44E5-B047-0DC8B89BDDC4_zps74v17r13.jpg.html)
Finally got to start on my new bow after the first one didn't want to go to 28". Got a nice large seasoned BL stave sawn in half and I am chasing a ring now.
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Other stave in the first pic is not locust its cherry.
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Hey Ryan.....You'll get it whipped this time bud 8) I already lost one also ::) Nice looking staves you have there though.
rich
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When I heat with the steamer I make a "tube" of tin foil and slide it down the stave to the area I want to heat. Then, twist the open ends closed. I poke a hole in the middle big enough to fit the nozzle of the steamer. I also poke a small hole in each end of my now sealed tube. The hardest part is trying to half squeeze the trigger for a light flow. If you full squeeze it blows the tube apart. The neat part about the tube is it holds the heat much longer. When you have everything all clamped up, just rip open the tube and allow to cool.
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I'm going on nights this weekend so I'll get a lot more done on the bows. Life as been getting in the way a bit. And I want to make sure the bow is ready to bend after the heating. The weather has been great here in southern Oklahoma so I'm going to take a few hours to hunt some rock tomorrow and then come home and work on the bow. You guys up north are getting hammered with that cold stuff. I think I would freeze instantly! ;D
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When I heat with the steamer I make a "tube" of tin foil and slide it down the stave to the area I want to heat. Then, twist the open ends closed. I poke a hole in the middle big enough to fit the nozzle of the steamer. I also poke a small hole in each end of my now sealed tube. The hardest part is trying to half squeeze the trigger for a light flow. If you full squeeze it blows the tube apart. The neat part about the tube is it holds the heat much longer. When you have everything all clamped up, just rip open the tube and allow to cool.
I use a plastic bread bag.
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The forecast temperature for my area of Minnesota tonight is -12. I like it when it gets this cold because it makes me appreciate my wood stove more. Hopefully I will get some. Work done on plan a and plan b this weekend.
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Hey Ryan.....You'll get it whipped this time bud 8) I already lost one also ::) Nice looking staves you have there though.
rich
its a great shooter just didn't trust it to go to 28" with the bad knot in it.
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Ryan, that shows me you have a real "feel" for this bow makin stuff sir.... 8)
rich
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I pulled the bow off the clamps tonight and didn't see any damage, so that is good. The heat correction brought the string much more in line. I had bent it past where it needed to go, but got enough spring back that I still need to straighten some more. Will also need to heat correct the limbs some, one is reflexed and one is deflexed.
I also found some knots on the edge of the limbs. I tried to miss one of them by leaving wood outside my layout lines, but didn't leave quite enough... the pin showed up in the edge. The other knot I thought I would missed completely, but it had angled in towards the center enough that it also showed up in the limb.
The red line in the picture is a string from the center of the tips. Got a little more straightening to do...
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Here are some pics of one of the knots. This one I thought I had missed, but it angled in to the center enough to show up. I am not sure if I can miss this one. I can take off just a little more from the limb width and that might put it right at 1/2 inch from the limb. What do you guys think?
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Here is the other knot. I thought I had missed this one, but there was a small pin that came out the side.
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Loop that's one snake son of a gun!!! Did you try localized steaming on the handle to get the tips in line yet? I just had to steam mine again...some twist tip had me fooled on my alignment.
No pictures but I had the limbs bending nicely and at 30#@ 16" at 4" brace height. I'm gonna try and get 30#@18 and up my brace.
If this one doesn't work out I'm gonna try a plan c...bendy handle recurve.
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I used dry heat on the handle. It was a little over 2 inches out of alignment and I am a little less than 1 inch out now. It needs another heat to get it more in line. I have never tried steam, only used dry heat. Anyone have thoughts on dry heat vs steam?
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If you look in the build along section Gordon shows how he does his handle steaming....I believe it's in the vine maple and hazel bow tutorials.
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http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,53195.45.html
Found the page loop
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Well I haven't worked on my trade bow, but I have a good excuse--more bows. These two are still Christmas gifts for my first and third boys. The osage is a belly split from my last bow and is ready for sealing. Bigger bow is a white oak stave that came to me floor tillered in the Christmas trade. The bow I had planned for him broke during tillering the week after Christmas.
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I'm getting the heavy Iroquois closer to final bend but a small amount to go. And sneeking up on an Osage for a friend.....a pics attached
rich
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Your an animal rich!! That rawhide is on its way along with some sinew I found at the grocery store :P. You'll have to let me know if it's usable stuff.
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sinew at grocery store?
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Beef tendon is a major cooking ingredient. Tends to be short though.
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Alright, I sawed off the ends and this is the end of the leftmost Black Locust staff that I was thinking of going after. Is this about the right size? Just double checking if I'm heading in the right direction with knocking off the rings. What I'm seeing is the sapwood ending where the thick blue dots are, and I should try getting to the thin red dots. Is that right?
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Looks good to me Ranasp!
Rich - you are an animal.
Jeff - those bows look good - bet your boys can't wait.
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These are full length leg tendons that are dog treats. If you soak them you can pound them out into fibers just don't know if all the goodness was cooked out of them in the process of making the dog chews.
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Had a little time to do some tillering this morning...
I narrowed the parallel section of limbs to 1 7/8". Rounded the edges and after exercising limbs a bit on the long string, I braced it so that the string was just off the handle about an inch. Currently pulling 40# @ 13".
The left limb in pic seems a tad stronger to me. There is a hump in this limb about 12-14" from tip. I am also thinking the outer 1/3 of limbs are stiff. Any advice appreciated. Although I have made several bows, I still struggle seeing the subtle differences in limbs and where and when to remove wood! :-\
Pics are unbraced, low brace, and pulled to around 13". (taking pics and pulling at the same time :laugh:.
Oh, and do you think the left limb has just a little more reflex or is the back of my handle not level causing it to be tipped up just a bit compared to the right?
Thanks!
Mitch
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Lookin great mitch!
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Thanks ajooter - any suggestions?
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Loope -
IMO on the knots - belly knots usually do not cause big problems. Those knots on the sides that are not exposed on the back of the bow probably won't either as long as they are tight and not rotted etc. I make sure they are smooth and rounded with no sharp edges exposed. Knots on the edge of the back can cause problems. A splinter can easily lift if it is bending on the knot. It looks like from the pics one of the knots is on the back? It also looks like there may be some violations around that knot?
I don't remember what kind of wood you are working and if you were planning on backing it?
On the alignment - if I had to try and staighten it, I would use steam and I would heat it up good for 30 40 min. I would protect the wood with poly or shellac or something similar. I will see if I can find some pics. I use a large pot (couple inches of water) and set the bow across the pot and cover with2 layers of foil so that only the area I want to heat is exposed to steam. I wrap the area I want to bend with a rag of some kind to keep it hot and moist. I know there are other ways to do it, that is just what I have done. Good luck with it!!
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Mw.......That is indeed looking good, very good as a matter of fact. That bump in the left limb does mess with you at brace....however by the time you are at the bottom of the draw that has dissapered and both limbs very even with smooth curves.....I think you are set to start bringing her back.
If you start bringing her back try to watch for evenness and not exceed the max weight all at the same time.....and STOP when either one happens. If it's the limbs starting to look different then correct that and then draw to weight......if it's weight then tiller evenly to bring the draw length back.
That bow is looking exceptional sir
rich
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MW, one other ...IF there is a difference in the limbs it is in the outside 1/3 of the left limb....so keep your eye on that as you come back (as far as evenness goes)
rich
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Thanks Rich!
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I think it looks great mitch....keep pulling just monitor your weight and check it at every inch of draw. I use a gizmo quite a bit at that point.
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Gizmo is a good idea ajooter - will do.
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Looks a little stiff coming out of the right fade mitch...might just be my eyes playing tricks tho
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I got some Mork work done on my plan a BL. After I had the tiller very close, I toasted the belly on both limbs and ended up way out of tiller. After heating one limb had about 4 inches of reflex and the other only had 1 inch. I tried a second heating on a form for the limb with less reflex and did not gain any more reflex (this limb started with an inch of deflex and the other started with reflex). I ended up tillering from there. I thought I had the tiller good last night and all looked even. I went out this morning and strung the bow an immediately could see the reflexes limb was way stronger. I spent some more time tillering this morning and now I think I have this bow about as good as I can get it. Below are some pics. In have shot the bow about 50 times today and it holds reflex in both limbs.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/8AFE4970-7D17-448B-AFA4-296A0E598EB5_zps3umjl0gg.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/8AFE4970-7D17-448B-AFA4-296A0E598EB5_zps3umjl0gg.jpg.html)
Here is the bow just after being shot.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/7913AE5B-DB7C-445A-892B-1F7EB5791635_zpsg6t7k4n6.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/7913AE5B-DB7C-445A-892B-1F7EB5791635_zpsg6t7k4n6.jpg.html)
Here is the full draw. I made weight but I wanted more.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/B07B609D-D3C4-40F5-A276-99AA8F621B8B_zpshjsbym9v.jpg) (http://s1061.photo-bucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/B07B609D-D3C4-40F5-A276-99AA8F621B8B_zpshjsbym9v.jpg.html)
What do you all think of the tiller? I have started on plan b and will post pics of that as I go. I would like to get a few bows done and send the best one.
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ajooter, got my care package you sent. Wish to thank you and some body is going to appreciate it as well.......thanks again man.
Swampman, ....the bow looks really good, think you did a great job, but have to say that unbraced profile shot is very sexy sir......
rich
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Swampman- When I imagine what a braced bow should look like I get an image just like your bow. I really like that. Kinda got Robin Hood written all over it.
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Looks great swampman!! That's $ right there....that top fade has come around and the unbraced profile is lookin good too.
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That's a good looking bow swampman.
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Swampman, whoever gets that bow will be one happy archer. Very nice work.
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Thank you all for the nice comments. The only thing I don't like about this bow is that I wanted a little more draw weight. Like I said, I did make weight but barely. It is a fun bow to shoot and I will enjoy shooting it some more. now if I can make a better bow I could keep this one. >:D >:D
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Mitch, that bow is really coming along great. Keep it roll'in.
Swampman, your bow is looking like a winner too. Nice work fellows.
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I used dry heat on the handle. It was a little over 2 inches out of alignment and I am a little less than 1 inch out now. It needs another heat to get it more in line. I have never tried steam, only used dry heat. Anyone have thoughts on dry heat vs steam?
Loope, I wouldn't worry about those knots until you have to. I'd guess the knot near the fade will be all but gone by the time it starts bending there and by the time you round those edges off good. Get it bending nice on the floor and then asses the knots again. As far as steam vs. dry heat? If you need to make big lateral type move, like you do, I prefer steam. Just grab a stock pot and put 2" of water in the bottom. Get it just hot enough to rumble. Lay your troubled area over the pot, back up, and cover it with tin foil to catch all the steam. Give it about 35-40 minutes and make your bend within 30 seconds after you pull it off the heat. Let it sit over night and continue on your way.
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Thanks PD for the advice. I will give it a go with the steam!
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I split off that chunk that wanted to go (fortunately it tapered off the further I went down the stave rather than digging into it) and debarked the entire thing. I'll see if I can actually catch a ring tomorrow.
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Ranasp, good for you....you must be livin right cause getting the bark to pop like that does not happen all the time >:D >:D Looking good so far.
rich
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Really? Lots of it was just peeling off when I pulled on it bare handed. I'm willing to bet the ironwood will more than make up for how easy debarking was on the BL.
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Loope good luck with the big bend!
Mitch, doing a great job so far from the looks of the pics.
Swampman, classic looking bow with pretty tiller. Greaat work everyone!
I made a new tillering tree on the nearby shed outside today. It was zero F and blowing hard, so I did most of it in the house and then quickly screwed it to the shed siding with aa scrw gun. It was bitter cold with 30 mph gusts. I've been finishing up the old Plan A bow even though I'm not sending it out. It's a very nice bow, though 3 lbs under min weight. I also have been tillering the Plan B bow on the floor with a mirror. Been going slow on that. I'll switch to the new tiller tree when the arctic express leaves town! Oh, also was able to shoot the repaired Meare Heath bow yesterday. Looking forward to finishing that one off.
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Black locust often times nearly falls off after a few years. Unlike osage, it just gets tighter and tighter and tighter. Like a boa.
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Mr. B,
Sounds like around here bud. Run out to the shed only as is absolutely necessary 8) Hope to have some more pics up today....both the heavy Iroquois and that osage sinewed 'nanner. Seems as most are just smokin along. This trade is just way cool.
rich
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Man..,...you guys are making me want to get shavings flying again but I'm stuck at work.
Have four days off starting tomorrow so hopefully I can get some shop time.
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Turtle, I for one cant wait to see your stick bending, sir. That is going to be some bow.
rich
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Quick update, I bolted the joint in my takedown with a single central bolt but the joint pulls open as the limb begins its bend around the bolt - only the one side, the one in tension, the compression side is good and tight. I think I need to laminate a top piece onto the back of the one limb to turn the joint into a tenon joint so the bolt will pinch it shut instead f allowing it to flex open.
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Rich, looking forward to those pics! Might have a couple pics today if I can get to it.
Went to minus 16 last night and breezy. The breeze was the problem. Froze the inside pressure pump, thawed that at midnight and put a clip-on light there, ran the water slow overnight, but not fast enough for the hot -- froze that pipe, thawed it this morning, put salt in the tub drain trap last night, that froze anyway. New backup kero furnace wasn't able to keep up overnight (piece of junk won't stay on high -- internal computer programmed not to!) -- 53 inside this morning, got the woodstove fired up good and temp is gradually rising -- up to 59 after 3 hours in some parts of the house, but it's sunny. Drinkin coffee with most systems up again. High will be +6 today with a 25 below wind chill. Tuesday is supposed to be 42 and rain -- go figure!
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Good grief. What part of hell do you live in?
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PlanB....just about the same here, sir.....but we only hit -14. Sort of gives a clear meaning to "bitter cold", yes? At this time of year we got a joke that goes " we live here why?" 8)
Stuck, With all the work you have in already I'm curious if you could consider a possible alternative? If you were to bind that grip with say 3/8 to 1/2 wide raw-hide strapping you couldn't move it even if you tried. Of course it would no longer be a take-down (at least not without a bunck of work). There are quite a few very heavy asiatic bows made like that and they were solid when found. Not trying to tell ya what to do....just maybe give you a possible option.
Having said that, you have a plan and aint nothing wrong with "sticking to it".
rich
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I was thinking about moving up north where it snows a little more so the kids would know what snow was. But I think I will change my mind after hearing planB's problem. Goon night you guys got it rough up there!
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Rich my hat's off to you buddy with all the snow you have, too. Sleek, Vermont. But we have it easy here -- across the border in NH on Mount Washington it was 28 below zero yesterday with 88 mile an hour wind. Personally, I'd find that kinda irritating. I think it was last year they had one day where it was the second coldest spot on earth -- somewhere in Antarctica edged it out. And it was also hurricane force wind at the time, so wind chill was ridiculous. People stay in the observatory there all winter. Must be like living on the moon!
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It's cold as...hell..? here to. I'm quite used to it, but this stuff will cut anybody if your not wrapped up tight. Add 15-20 mph winds and you're done fir.
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Well dang, my hickory stave is giving me a hard time. It had a crook in it so I laid out the profile so the crook would be in the small part of the handle. I thought I would be able to straighten it easily. I've steamed it three times to no avail......10 minutes, fifteen minutes and now 35 minutes. I don't know whether to try steaming it 45 minutes or trying dry heat. The last time I clamped it in a way to isolate the small part of the handle so it would bend there, but it didn't hold. The section I'm trying to bend is 1" wide and 2" thick. I'm afraid to make it thinner until I see exactly how I will need to do the final shaping. I've never had this issue with hickory before. Any thoughts?
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PlanB....just about the same here, sir.....but we only hit -14. Sort of gives a clear meaning to "bitter cold", yes? At this time of year we got a joke that goes " we live here why?" 8)
Stuck, With all the work you have in already I'm curious if you could consider a possible alternative? If you were to bind that grip with say 3/8 to 1/2 wide raw-hide strapping you couldn't move it even if you tried. Of course it would no longer be a take-down (at least not without a bunck of work). There are quite a few very heavy asiatic bows made like that and they were solid when found. Not trying to tell ya what to do....just maybe give you a possible option.
Having said that, you have a plan and aint nothing wrong with "sticking to it".
rich
Trying to learn all I can about take-downs, else I would epoxy the thing back together and bind the handle really tight; once this bow has taught me all I need I can put it to one side and start the trade bow happy it'll go together properly.
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Drewster,
The problem might be trying to correct in too small of an area....ya know how hickory grain is >:D If the localized heat is the way you need to go then maybe dry dry heat. I dont have any experience with that but my understanding is that hick responds real well to dry heat.
If the steam aint working then maybe take that bad-boy out behind the woodshed and let him talk to Mr. heatgun >:D >:D >:D
rich
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Well the old boatbuilding steam bent frame recommendation was 1 hr/inch thickness for steam, get it to the form in seconds, and then don't unclamp for a day. Allow for spring back in the form. And not all woods steam bend well. Also steam green wood. Too dry was problematic. If any of the above fits, maybe that's the cause.
I find rich's 5 minute steaming does work on black birch but in a thin limb section. Haven't tried a handle bend with that.
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Drew, no less than a 45 minute steam for that job. It will move and stay put. Be sure steam is reaching at least 2-3" beyond the area you're wanting to bend.
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It's gone down to 37 below up here for 2 nights in a row now, the first night with brisk North winds. Fortunately that's supposed to be the end of it.
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Fellas,
Here is some pics of a little sinewed yeller 'nanna....medium weight, highly reflexed, sinewed with deer and moose and a little snaky......wont post anymore on this one till it has all it's rawhide, snake skins, finished string etc........and yes it's quick.
Enjoy the pics and I'll have more up today of the heavyweight Iroquois, think I got the tiller where it needs to be at this point....
rich
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Nice bend Rich 8) Looks like a screamer :o
Don
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I had -2f this morning and thought that was cold. Glad I'm not as far north as some of you are.
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Got news for ya Turtle.....when it's minus anything and some wind it's cold bud, once ya get to popsicle stage your there 8) 8)
rich
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Rich -
that one nice bit of work there, like the reflex.
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Willie, for a bow a little over 50" that 6" of reflex with static tips is a real bugger to just get it to stay braced.....they got an annoying habit of trying to turn inside out. This one took some "persuasion" but finally cooperated. I string all mine with push pull and to do that with this guy ya need a strong grip till ya get the tips back some but then everything is real good.
rich
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Rich-
just out of curiosity, Have you seen any NA bows with double nocks or a tip shape that would enable the use of a stringer? (for those pesky highly reflexed designs)
willie
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Here is choice 3 I am working on, Elm, 66 ntn going for a elliptical tiller, have it out to 22". see any issues? Hammertime(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/26e162f7-abb7-46f1-a4c4-8f697a7ecd0a_zps624ejang.jpg)
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This is an ELB style and I am not familiar with these so any input would be helpful but so far it seems to be making a nice bow-Hammertime
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Willie, I have not seen any like that.....dont mean they were not used just that I have not seen any.
Hammertime, Because of the pic angle I really cant say on the bottom limb, but the upper one could use some more bend in the outer half. So if they look the same to you (the bottom and top) then you may wish to get the outsides moving some. For what it's worth getting more bend in the outer half will really increase your draw length but will not have much effect of the overall draw weight.
rich
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Ok Thanks Rich will do some scraping there-Hammertime
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Rich that's a nice looking little yeller bow right there
Ajooter I got that raw hide on my little yeller static recurve today. That stuff is easy to work with
Been out for a hike 19 degrees carring a chainsaw and snowing about 2" hr. Well anyways cut a tree I've been wanting for a year. Got 3 6' percimon logs about 12" through. I'm stocking my depleted stave pile this year regardless. I have to have more bow wood. Now I have t snake those logs out that will be the fun part.
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Dang Rich, how many bows have u made since this trade has started. Every other page has u and a new bow. Your a machine, my man.
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I've put a decent amount of work into the rock elm pyramid. I realized I should stop for a couple pics before I continued. I flipped the tips a tad and I put a single layer of sinew/hide glue for protection after I was happy with the floor tiller. A friend finally found this fabric they'd been hunting for. I'd asked if she could find me some natural looking snakeskin. She came through. I airbrushed some detail and some darker shadow. The original print looked faded. It was definitely less work than painting a pattern from scratch. The fabric went on with TB3 after the sinew was dry. I'll be putting a highlight color into the skin next. Then tiller tree.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2805_zps4grbe199.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2806_zpseenngrgd.jpg)
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Dang Gutshot, you a glutton for punishment aint ya? That persimmon is some darned heavy wood.
Stix.....only 4 if you count Ms. Laurens and I did not make the 'nanner, just tillering for a fellow member. But I did have to call some friends for advice on how to whoop on that thing cause it was skinning me up pretty good at the beginning. 8) 8) 8)
Man Kid, thats lookin real fine right there, cant hardly wait to see her when she's all slicked up. All these bows sneekin up on being done... got to love that cause we gettin to the eye candy part.
rich
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That Iroquois style bow is really nice, Rich! That's gonna make someone happy.
Super looking job Dakota!
I only tillered indoors today, no photos, just slow going. Bow is low braced.
Turtle, Pearl Marc, cold is cold, but okay because of the beauty we get in a couple months. Hate the wind, though, when it is.
Hammer, I'm with Rich -- bottom bending nicely.
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Ok I said I would post pics this weekend of my progress Ontario forward handle Osage with natural tip overlays. This joker has had slot of hrs put into it so far and needs lots more. I might be lucky to get it done by this time next year. Well any ways here it is
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Lots of great progress fellas...nice little bow rich...glad that hide worked for ya gut....I have tomorrow off so I'll be getting into it for sure...had some misfortune aligning my tips...I forgot to pad on the side of the limb and it dented pretty badly...I'll clean it up and see what happens. I want this bow to be as purdy as it can when I'm done with it.
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More pics
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This is an ELB style and I am not familiar with these so any input would be helpful but so far it seems to be making a nice bow-Hammertime
Coming right out of that upper fade it looks like it's a pretty stiff those first couple inches...but like the other said...get the tips coming around first and you'll make your way to the fades. Just gotta be careful not to create a hinge early on near the fade area.
What kind of wood is it again ?
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Gutshot, that yella bow looks outstanding sir.....after all your hard work already I cant believe that tillering is going to be an issue at all ::) ::)
PlanB, hell man with the easy day and night you had you ought to be just cruising, ya right >:D
Ajooter, dont think it's anything you cant handle
rich
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Gutshot,
I'm really liking the looks of that yellow character bow you got going on... 8) You take your good old time around them fades when you get there...
Don
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Super nice!
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Gutshot,
I'm really liking the looks of that yellow character bow you got going on... 8) You take your good old time around them fades when you get there...
Don
Will do Donald. If you have any advice I will take all I can get. Never done anything like it
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Rich looks like ya got that little bow whooped pretty good.
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Absolutely Jon.....amazing what happens when a fella gets a ton of good advice ;) Thank you my friend.
rich
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You haven't seen or heard from me much in the last few days. Two of my sisters visited traveling from Torrington, WY and Aurora, CO. We had a great time and don't get the chance to do it often enough. Anyway I'm back> You are doing a fantastic job of getting things done helping each other.
Especially wish to thank Rich for staying on top of everything going on but all of you guys are doing fantastic. Your motivation is catching.
As stated in an earlier post, the first incentive drawing was held tonight and we have 3 winners.
#1 Ty_in_ND Choice of 10" Ochsenkopf draw knife
#49 Nicholson pattern makers rasp or
Aged osage stave donated by JonW
#2 Sidmand Defer to above after Tyler's choice.
#3 Drewster JWHalverson's black hills gold ( pure honey and beeswax)
Congratulations to all of you. We will have another drawing next Sunday evening for 3 more donated items. Keep up the spirit!!!! >>-----> Fred
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Congrats to Ty, Sidman and Drewster on winning.
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Oh COOL. I love good honey. Thanks Fred for all you're doing with this trade. Best one I've ever been involved in.
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Love the drawings idea - Thanks Fred and to all who donated! Congrats to those drawn you lucky rascals.
Swampman - I am liking the looks of that BL!
Ranasp - looks like that stave split just fine to me. glad the bark came off easy.
Rich - that full draw looks great on that little bow - well done sir!
Hammer - that elm is looking good - starting to bend like it is supposed to. Rich has good advice on the outers.
DKid - the snake pattern looks good - bet it will look really good all finished up!
Gutshot - I think you have more patience than me - the osage is coming along nicely! Lots of work in that one.
No time to work on my bow today. Maybe some evening this week???
Mitch
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Rich, that is one seriously fine lookin tiller on that banana :o
Gut, what you gonna call that one? The 18 rings of Hades?
Yeah, I agree the drawing is an outstanding idea-congrats you lucky dogs!
JW, what would it take to get that honey??
Just too many cool things goin on to comment on all.
Keep it going fellas!! 8)
And I did get some work done but have to get around to some pics.
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Congrats to the drawing winners....makes the trade that much sweeter....I'll be getting something done today for sure!
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You haven't seen or heard from me much in the last few days. Two of my sisters visited traveling from Torrington, WY and Aurora, CO. We had a great time and don't get the chance to do it often enough. Anyway I'm back> You are doing a fantastic job of getting things done helping each other.
Especially wish to thank Rich for staying on top of everything going on but all of you guys are doing fantastic. Your motivation is catching.
As stated in an earlier post, the first incentive drawing was held tonight and we have 3 winners.
#1 Ty_in_ND Choice of 10" Ochsenkopf draw knife
#49 Nicholson pattern makers rasp or
Aged osage stave donated by JonW
#2 Sidmand Defer to above after Tyler's choice.
#3 Drewster JWHalverson's black hills gold ( pure honey and beeswax)
Congratulations to all of you. We will have another drawing next Sunday evening for 3 more donated items. Keep up the spirit!!!! >>-----> Fred
Well, for starters, I hope the visit with your sisters was good! I'm lucky enough that my siblings will pretty close to me, so we don't go long stretches without weeing each other.
As far as winning the drawing... all I can say is I'm humbled that I was even entered in, let alone to win something.
As for the bow, it's on to plan B for me. I was looking at the cuts for the splice and thought "they're so close to being perfect, I can work on them just a touch more...". I know, famous last words! Anyway, the boards aren't ruined at all, but if I were to cut new splices, I would be left with a length of wood that would be a little on the short side for me to comfortably make a bow for my guy's stats. I'll be trimming some more osage slats I have to size tonight!
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Gut, what you gonna call that one? The 18 rings of Hades?
Dubois, probably name it the death of Me!
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Congrats to the winners and to everyone workin their a&$#s off on this trade.
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Here is choice 3 I am working on, Elm, 66 ntn going for a elliptical tiller, have it out to 22". see any issues? Hammertime(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/26e162f7-abb7-46f1-a4c4-8f697a7ecd0a_zps624ejang.jpg)
You have a hinge off the fade in the upper. Past that hinge is dead flat. The bottom is flat from fade to tip. You need ALOT more even bending on those limbs. Use a straight edge or gizmo. I'm guessing you will need at least 10-15# to get anywhere near your desired tiller. My red lines show your flat spots. Pretty easy to them when made red.
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Wow, I am well and truly blessed! Thank you all so much! Fred I will PM you this evening after work once Ty makes his choice, OK?
I didn't even get to touch my bow this weekend, my twins were born 10 years ago on Valentines day, so this weekend was all about them and the missus. I did check my stave, it's still has some drying to do apparently. I cut a bit off one of the ends to get it down to my chosen length, and it started checking cause I forgot to seal it. I resealed the whole end with some titebond in hopes it stops, I think it will be fine cause it's right on the end and off to the side of where the actual limb tip will be.
I got to start chasing rings on plan b next while plan a keeps drying. That's the next step.
You haven't seen or heard from me much in the last few days. Two of my sisters visited traveling from Torrington, WY and Aurora, CO. We had a great time and don't get the chance to do it often enough. Anyway I'm back> You are doing a fantastic job of getting things done helping each other.
Especially wish to thank Rich for staying on top of everything going on but all of you guys are doing fantastic. Your motivation is catching.
As stated in an earlier post, the first incentive drawing was held tonight and we have 3 winners.
#1 Ty_in_ND Choice of 10" Ochsenkopf draw knife
#49 Nicholson pattern makers rasp or
Aged osage stave donated by JonW
#2 Sidmand Defer to above after Tyler's choice.
#3 Drewster JWHalverson's black hills gold ( pure honey and beeswax)
Congratulations to all of you. We will have another drawing next Sunday evening for 3 more donated items. Keep up the spirit!!!! >>-----> Fred
Well, for starters, I hope the visit with your sisters was good! I'm lucky enough that my siblings will pretty close to me, so we don't go long stretches without weeing each other.
As far as winning the drawing... all I can say is I'm humbled that I was even entered in, let alone to win something.
As for the bow, it's on to plan B for me. I was looking at the cuts for the splice and thought "they're so close to being perfect, I can work on them just a touch more...". I know, famous last words! Anyway, the boards aren't ruined at all, but if I were to cut new splices, I would be left with a length of wood that would be a little on the short side for me to comfortably make a bow for my guy's stats. I'll be trimming some more osage slats I have to size tonight!
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Got some work on the 1st choice osage 62". Thought I'd try something new to me and deflex handle and add reflex to tips. Putting faith in this one so I added tip overlays of inner bison horn bone and a little bison horn on top. Start tillering later this week!
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Also one of my inside tiller horse. I like it cause I can get up and walk around it and get different angles and look down from t-t
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Lookin great dubois...like those overlays. Can't wait to see it bending!
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Like that design Marco. That should be a quick little bow. I need your tiller horse design so I can adapt it to a shaving horse.
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I finally found a lil time to work an Osage stave I had. Here are a few pics. I will start posting more as I finish it.
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Dontower/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/F060AB09-0B13-42E9-8BE1-27FCCD2F186F_zpswgaqbr3u.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Dontower/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/F060AB09-0B13-42E9-8BE1-27FCCD2F186F_zpswgaqbr3u.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Dontower/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/3E5CABDA-734F-4B18-B460-3263464C820F_zpscohfuhvj.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Dontower/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/3E5CABDA-734F-4B18-B460-3263464C820F_zpscohfuhvj.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Dontower/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/7ED64B49-47A4-483C-BF2C-13EEDC0CF2E4_zps2zcyq9eu.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Dontower/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/7ED64B49-47A4-483C-BF2C-13EEDC0CF2E4_zps2zcyq9eu.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Dontower/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/30134931-024F-4587-8871-A6EAE3155008_zpsdeyxwv0e.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Dontower/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/30134931-024F-4587-8871-A6EAE3155008_zpsdeyxwv0e.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Dontower/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/936AED47-D018-4B82-B833-C8A84C4D6CAE_zpstvojlszj.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Dontower/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/936AED47-D018-4B82-B833-C8A84C4D6CAE_zpstvojlszj.jpg.html)
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Tower, that's a great looking stave. Looks like you've been doing some knapping too :-)
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That's looking good Don. Nice stave to work with.
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Marco that's a good looking profile on that bow. Should be a screamer
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Tower that s one straight stave right there. Possibilities unlimited.
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Made it to the shop today and got a little tillering done. Have it at top of my victims weght at bottom of his draw range. Put around 70 arrows through it and am realy liking it. Was tearing up the bullseye at 8 yards in my shop. :)
Just need to shoot it more and stretch the draw length out a bit. Will try to get a draw pic sometime today.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160215_113334739.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160215_114827019.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160215_114800190.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160215_114926798.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160215_114904274.jpg)
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Between tillering sessions on the plan B bow, I was able to get a weight with new tree and digital scale, and shoot a few arrows out of the older plan A bow. Now seems to have made it to the bottom of my guy's range in weight. I'll probably send the plan B bow out because I hope it will be even better and more interesting. But this one is a sweet, fast shooter as-is. Weighs 14 oz, 60" overall.
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowA4.jpg)
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowA1.jpg)
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I haven't seen a bow on here that I wouldn't like to have. I admire you guys that are working on a second bow. Keep them coming.
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i love what I'm seeing guys this is great
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Tower that is one straight stave!!
Turtle....that's getting it done! I'm pretty good at 8 yards myself.
B...that first bow came out nice...like that color.
I took a break from the trade bow today. Got an hhb branch I've been wddling down. It's only 48" and just some practice material.
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I have the day off of work today but decided to make black cap jelly instead. I have had a bucket of wild black caps in the freezer since last summer. Waiting for it to cool now. I did get a little bit of work on my plan b bow. It is close to floor tillerred. I chose my white birch stave to work on.
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Man...blackcap jelly sounds awful good right now! Here's that little piece of hhb I was working on. Got a lot twist to take out but i think it will make a bow.
(http://i.imgur.com/G3k2AME.jpg?1)
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Ajooter that looks sweet man! Congrats to all the winners. And all these bows are looking sweet.
I really need to get on deck and get some tillering done. Great job everyone
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Plan B that a sweet looking bow you got finished out there
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Turtle, lookin good. Plan B, both look awesome. Tower, great start. Finally did some bendin today after steamin my tips last week. Low brace of 5", tillered out to 19". Gonna be under weight. So tempering belly.
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Just catching up now! :o
Congratulations to the winners!
DuBois, I really like that profile! :)
Tower, man, you're starting out with a bang!
Turtle, looking good, and on target with that snakey stave!
Ajooter, nice looking set of curves! :)
Swampman, looking forward to seeing another birch bow taking shape!
Gutshot, stixnstones, ajooter, thank you kindly!
Fred +1!
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Times like these a bandsaw would be nice...hatchet...ferries rasp and 45 minutes. This will be plan b....hopefully get it reduced and then start getting that twist out and the tips in line.
(http://i.imgur.com/HLEjnYl.jpg?1)
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Going to start working on my plan b tomorrow but it had a knot tear out that worries me. It will still make a bow but not sure if I can get it to spec. So I dug out a set of flowering dogwood billets and will try to get them roughed out tomorrow and set em aside to dry for a while inside. They will be plan c.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/20160215_203033.jpg)
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After eating some black cap jelly on toast I got some energy and did some more work on my birch stave. I reduced the belly down a lot more and roughed out the handle. I worked up a good sweat working with my rasp. It is just starting to flex a little now. Next I need to take out some natural deflex on one limb tip. Then I need to move the handle for good string alignment and then take out some prop twist. I plan to use steam for all of this.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/E3ED5717-5133-42B4-87F2-FF83301196A5_zpsefocwm4i.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/E3ED5717-5133-42B4-87F2-FF83301196A5_zpsefocwm4i.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/891F7ABB-FE38-48B8-B51A-46DE959907E8_zpsgusngjx8.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/891F7ABB-FE38-48B8-B51A-46DE959907E8_zpsgusngjx8.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/034BD492-8515-4210-B18B-5630A3D1AF7D_zpslrxa3fh4.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/034BD492-8515-4210-B18B-5630A3D1AF7D_zpslrxa3fh4.jpg.html)
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It's single digits without the windchill, so no wood chips flying over her lately
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Everyone's bows are looking great!
I steamed the redbud and got it on the caul yesterday. I just pulled it off to check and it is better, but still needs another adjustment. I found out during the steaming that I need a better clamp. My C-clamp was too small to fit so I thought I would go ahead with a bar type quick-clamp, but just couldn't generate much force. Need to get a better clamp and try again.
While waiting, I started debarking a clean dogwood stave and plan to work on it during breaks... just in case....
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ttt
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ttt
Dubois ??? What's ttt.
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Gutshot, means "to the top"....a way to move the thread back up the list.
rich
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Oh not up on all the fancy terms
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I have a question about ring chasing. I'm removing the sapwood from my Black Locust, and there's parts where I'm getting to the heartwood but right next to it the sapwood dips down into it. Do I just keep peeling away until I've gotten rid of the heartwood, even though I'm going to make the heartwood ring thinner? This is a big fat heartwood ring so I'd be removing a good chunk of wood if I have to go down to the next ring. Which is worse? A compromised ring or less material to work with, or is it even an issue as long as other rings aren't peeking through?
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Do you have pics? If the ring in question is the first heartwood ring, then that's normal. It's the transition ring and it may well have some sapwood colored wood marbled in with the darker wood. Doesn't hurt a thing and I find it quite aesthetically pleasing. Some people refer to it as creamsickle. You want to maintain the integrity of the ring. If you dip down into it trying to get under the lighter wood, you will still be violating the grain even if you don't go all the way through to the next ring. I hope that helps. Josh
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2X what Gun Doc said. If the ring you're chasing has valleys and ridges, use a gooseneck scraper to follow the contour more easily and leave all the thickness of the ring that you can. Tree rings definitely do not grow symmetrically concentric as you are seeing.
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A most ornery hickory stave. Per a previous post, I've been having a hard time getting the crook out of my stave at the handle. SO, I steamed that bad girl for over an hour Sunday afternoon and clamped it up until this morning. Five minutes after I unclamped her, she moved back to the original crook. DANG IT. I drug out the heat gun and greased up the area that needs to bend with Crisco. Heated that baby for 15 minutes and tied her off. Well see what happens this time. If this doesn't work, guess I'll have to start on Plan B.......never had this kind of problem getting hickory to bend.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Bend%20Handle%20Bend_zpsxfimupyo.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Bend%20Handle%20Bend_zpsxfimupyo.jpg.html)
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I'm surprised it didn't hold drewster....thats how I handle all my hickory. Maybe you could try steaming it again and after its clamped in the position you want it you can hit it with the heat gun to try and cement that position into shape.
Is it a well seasoned piece of wood?
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I have a question about ring chasing. I'm removing the sapwood from my Black Locust, and there's parts where I'm getting to the heartwood but right next to it the sapwood dips down into it. Do I just keep peeling away until I've gotten rid of the heartwood, even though I'm going to make the heartwood ring thinner? This is a big fat heartwood ring so I'd be removing a good chunk of wood if I have to go down to the next ring. Which is worse? A compromised ring or less material to work with, or is it even an issue as long as other rings aren't peeking through?
I have wondered if using an iron and steaming the suface of the stave would help separate the sapwood and or cambium from staves cut later in the year? Anybody try this?
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A most ornery hickory stave. Per a previous post, I've been having a hard time getting the crook out of my stave at the handle. SO, I steamed that bad girl for over an hour Sunday afternoon and clamped it up until this morning. Five minutes after I unclamped her, she moved back to the original crook. DANG IT. I drug out the heat gun and greased up the area that needs to bend with Crisco. Heated that baby for 15 minutes and tied her off. Well see what happens this time. If this doesn't work, guess I'll have to start on Plan B.......never had this kind of problem getting hickory to bend.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Bend%20Handle%20Bend_zpsxfimupyo.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Bend%20Handle%20Bend_zpsxfimupyo.jpg.html)
How much are you trying to bend it? Like how much did you move it where the string is tied? Did you heat it where the brown ares is? All I'm thinking is if you're not trying to move it much and you heated it where the brown is, maybe the two thin sections of the handle are absorbing all the movement. If you follow me that's all I got :D
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If all else fails i have cut an angled slot then steam it or use dry heat and drive a wedge in gently, then after it sets pop the wedge out, coat in epoxy and re install, do this where the cut will be covered by the grip wrap
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So far it seems to be close to the end of the stave, I haven't stripped all the sapwood off the rest of it yet. I'll get to work on that and see if it keeps happening, here's a close up and a view further back with a dotted line showing the sapwood.
Never having done this before I'm a bit nervous about how far is too far. I think I've figured out what the "pithy" areas are talked about in Clay Hayes' videos, but is it a dealbreaker if you end up going past it? The outermost ring is well over 1/4" thick (at least at the very end of the staff, I doubt it's consistent all the way through).
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Ranasp,
Usually when the majority of sapwood has been removed if any is left it will more than likely "pop" durning the floor bending or at least by the time you reack brace height......other than the fact that the "tick" when it does will scare the bejesus out of you it really is not much of an issue.
While I have no direct experience with Locust the condition I described above happens frequently on Creep Myrtle, and some of the woods like service berry, choke cherry etc.
rich
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What i do is get close with a drawknife and then use a scraper to clean up the back before continuing, is that stave cut close to bow dimensions if not go ahead and get that done no sense getting a clean back on wood that gets removed
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I'm surprised it didn't hold drewster....thats how I handle all my hickory. Maybe you could try steaming it again and after its clamped in the position you want it you can hit it with the heat gun to try and cement that position into shape.
Is it a well seasoned piece of wood?
Yeah, after steaming it for about 70 minutes, I'm surprised it didn't hold either. Never had hickory to act this stubborn. It's pretty well seasoned. It was harvested from a road widening project almost a year ago. I roughed out the stave and it's been in my shop that long. I've also had it in my hot box for the past three weeks.
Thanks for your idea of steaming and heating. When I unclamp it in the morning, I will try that if it doesn't hold. I'll figure out SOME WAY to beat this stick of wood ;-)
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DC, I need the tip to move about an inch to get everything to line up. The brown area is where I put the Crisco so the wood wouldn't scorch. I heated about a 6" section......top, bottom & sides. It was way to hot to hold your finger on. The way it's tied moved the limb past where it needs to be so I'm hoping this will work. If not, I'll try something else.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Bend%20Handle%20Bend%20II_zps6eixj4bq.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Bend%20Handle%20Bend%20II_zps6eixj4bq.jpg.html)
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If all else fails i have cut an angled slot then steam it or use dry heat and drive a wedge in gently, then after it sets pop the wedge out, coat in epoxy and re install, do this where the cut will be covered by the grip wrap
That's a solution I've never done. Thanks for the idea Buddy. If all else fails, I'll do that.
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Has it moved at all?
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Has it moved at all?
Not enough that I can tell. So far, it has returned to it original shape. OH, maybe it's rubber wood instead of shagbark hickory :-)
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http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,37617.msg535506.html#msg535506
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Little bit of a problem...I was going to try and just narrow the limb width down right at the knot or employ a torges patch. What do you guys think? I think I have enough limb width since I left it a little wider in this partocular location.
(http://i.imgur.com/GrJLpzR.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/jed80Tw.jpg?1)
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ajooter,
Is that Ironwood? If so and you narrow the width to get even with that knot there should be no more trouble. I've made bows to the mid 50 # having regular knots sawed right through the middle of the knot. When you get right down near final width check the pin and make sure the fracture is not toward the middle as well (right now it looks to be only on the outside edge).
rich
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It's actually hickory rich
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Ajooter,
Here's a thought, sir. Make a scalloped bow....put them on that side and make sure that when you lay out the scallops have that knot be the bottom of one of them. That should get rid of it.
rich
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Am getting my plan a real close. Its right at victims max weight at middle of draw length. Am aiming for max weight at max length so going real slow at this point. Lots of exercising and shooting in between minor scraping. Worked on plan b a little and decided that getting it to my victims specs might be asking too much out of this stave so decided to save it for a bow I have in mind for my brother in law. Roughed out my plan c dogwood billets, but need to let them rest inside to dry for a little while before I go any farther with them. Will let them set inside for a few days and then put them in my hot box. Sometimes dogwood doesnt like to give up that last little bit of moisture. Will try to get a draw pic of plan a tomorrow.
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Did some heat treatin tonite. Never done any temperin before so its just a lite toastin. Any advise is greatly appreciated.
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That is a great idea rich...thank you! Gonna get on that tonight fellas. >:D
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Did some heat treatin tonite. Never done any temperin before so its just a lite toastin. Any advise is greatly appreciated.
Looking good stix but try to keep a even color on that heat treating
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Thanx, Gutshot. Would it hurt if i go back tomorrow and even it out?
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Simson has done a lot of ammonia fuming to make some beautiful color, but I have also read it can also be used for putting some severe bends into wood, much more than could be accomplished with steam. Has anyone tried ammonia for stubborn bends? But I do like the idea to cut a slot and use a wedge, not quite as toxic :)
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got some work done on my yew stick tonight ;D
got it to a light floor tiller and then used steam to even out the reflex :)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/3896E158-7217-4F71-A4C1-849EC10252D9.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/3896E158-7217-4F71-A4C1-849EC10252D9.jpg.html)
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Scalloped both limbs. I like the way it came out and my nice even bend is still there. Im going to rawhide back the bow soon and then heat treat/add reflex to both limbs.
On a different note if the bow ends up failing at least I know my gf found a winning recipe in a cauliflower pizza with Italian sausage and ricotta.
(http://i.imgur.com/5WbtiaQ.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/xEzLl9T.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/61qLUn3.jpg?1)
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Looking good ajooter. You should do your heat treating/reflexing BEFORE you rawhide back so that the heat doesnt cause the glue to let go.
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+1 what Turtle said
rich
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Ajooter those scallops look good.
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Simson has done a lot of ammonia fuming to make some beautiful color, but I have also read it can also be used for putting some severe bends into wood, much more than could be accomplished with steam. Has anyone tried ammonia for stubborn bends? But I do like the idea to cut a slot and use a wedge, not quite as toxic :)
Loope just glued my tip overlays on tonight I will shape them up tomorrow then I have 2 bows I'm going to fume a BL the trade bow and a small static recurve Osage that I'm making for the moontree gathering I will take before and after pics.
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Be honest guys I've always done it after...and never had a problem. But thinking about it now it makes sense to do it the other way.
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Damn , that pizza looks gooood!
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Ajooter,
I thought I was going to be looking at pictures of bows. Now I am hungry.
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still tillering......
want pizza.
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got some work done on my yew stick tonight ;D
got it to a light floor tiller and then used steam to even out the reflex :)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/3896E158-7217-4F71-A4C1-849EC10252D9.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/3896E158-7217-4F71-A4C1-849EC10252D9.jpg.html)
Some you guys are getting creative on how your steaming. I mean all I can say is your'll wife's must be gone shopping. I've got a good wife and all but that's where she would lay the law down. So my 10$ Coleman stove from a yard sale keeps everybody happy in our kitchen. Keep up the good work
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Bless her heart, my wife tolerates me doing a little steaming in her kitchen.......as long as I clean up my mess :-)
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Some you guys are getting creative on how your steaming. I mean all I can say is your'll wife's must be gone shopping. I've got a good wife and all but that's where she would lay the law down. So my 10$ Coleman stove from a yard sale keeps everybody happy in our kitchen. Keep up the good work
[/quote]
lol ;D in my case its a mom and i went out and bought a tea kettle from a thrift store for my steam bending ;)
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If all else fails i have cut an angled slot then steam it or use dry heat and drive a wedge in gently, then after it sets pop the wedge out, coat in epoxy and re install, do this where the cut will be covered by the grip wrap
clever, Mr Bub!
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Was able to do a little tillering tonight. Have it braced to about 5 1/2" or so. Pulling to 18". Pulling from 1 1/4" above center (right limb will be the top limb).
The limbs are currently about 1/2" or so in thickness and about 1 3/4" wide.
Hackberry - parallel to about mid limb then tapering to tips. 66" ntn.
Pics are at current brace, pulling to 18", and then immediately after brace. Sorry for the blurry one.
Have a couple of questions: How is the bend looking? How "thin" can you make the limbs? Should I narrow them at this point to reduce some weight or continue to remove from the belly?
Thanks.
Mitch
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mwosborn, to my amateur eyes, it looks like the left limb is slightly stiffer than the right and that the outer 1/3 of each limb looks a little stiff. Hopefully more experienced comments than mine will come in :)
I got some new C-clamps large enough to fit my caul, re-steamed the redbud, and clamped it. Was able to get the movement this time. Will see tomorrow how it looks when it comes off the caul.
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Mitch, I agree with Loope's assessment. The outer limbs need your attention, but looking good at this point. There isn't any set thickness that the limbs need to be. Keep thinning them until you get the bending you need and keep exercising a lot between wood removal.
I haven't worked with hackberry, but the TBB suggests limb width at 1 7/8". I would just keep thinning them and leave the width you have.
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+1, on what drewster said. And I would get it to your full brace height before I go any further. Also, remember that your handle thickness is a good bit more than what it will be once it's shaped. You need to take that into account when setting your final brace height.
Patrick
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Mitch that right limb looks dead nutz. The left limb is stiff off the fade.
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Pearl Drums, Since Mitch has done this, centered or off centered bow on tree is something I'm confused about....
When you personally tiller your own bows, and assuming the limbs are the same length, do you offset the bow where it sets on a tree, and also offset where the tillering string attaches. Or do you personally center the bow, and string? Or is there some other way you do it? And if you don't make the limbs the same length, how do you set it in the tree?
I know different people do this different ways, and have different ways they favor, I was just wanting to know your way that you handle it.
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spent a couple of hours in the 'shop and now my 2-piece take-down is a 3-piece, hope to post photos tomorrow
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Pearl Drums, Since Mitch has done this, centered or off centered bow on tree is something I'm confused about....
When you personally tiller your own bows, and assuming the limbs are the same length, do you offset the bow where it sets on a tree, and also offset where the tillering string attaches. Or do you personally center the bow, and string? Or is there some other way you do it? And if you don't make the limbs the same length, how do you set it in the tree?
I know different people do this different ways, and have different ways they favor, I was just wanting to know your way that you handle it.
I do mine much differently than most. I have a 1 x 4 stick in a vice with grooves cut in for the string. Once the bow is at low brace after a good floor tiller I toss it up on my stick, on center. I get the limbs bending evenly and matched out to maybe 18-20" max. Then I do the rest by hand and feel. I don't use a tree at all, except for checking draw weight. Regardless of whether a guy centers it, offsets it or any other style, a flat spot is a flat spot. It will be there no matter where the handle is positioned on the block. Obtaining balance in the bow hand has to be done in hand, or on a tree holding the bow the same place your hand would. Unbalanced bows are easy to see in pictures and especially easy to feel in hand.
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Thanks Pearl Drums, that's very helpful to me.
Is there a different tillering balance for a bow for a person who holds a bow more toward the top of the hand between the thumb and index finger with a more open hand than one who holds the grip hitting mainly lower in the hand?
If I send a bow in a trade is it possible it seems balanced for me but not somebody else because I don't know how they hold it? (I'm right at the point in tillering now and starting to shoot it where this is something I would like to understand.)
Thanks again for answering these questions.
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Haven't been able to get a pic while drawing so took one on the tree. I'm about 3 pounds over and an inch short of draw in the pic. It feels close in my hand but just slightly off. That wonky limb is giving my eyes fits.
What do you guys see?
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160217_151300496.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160217_150949303.jpg)
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Turtle. Your upper limthe fade out the the bump in the limb looks flat to me. But that's me. Half Eye or Fred might see something different
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Can you post an unbraced photo?
Patrick
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Can you post an unbraced photo?
Patrick
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160215_114926798.jpg)
Turtle. Your upper limthe fade out the the bump in the limb looks flat to me. But that's me. Half Eye or Fred might see something different
Yes, I worked the fade to about 6 inches out after I posted the pics and it seems to be coming around better.
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I don't have a good eye for tiller. It may be a tad stiff from the handle out to the woopity doo but it looks like there is also a little more reflex at that point in the limb. Better for me to always ask anytime I build a bow.
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Thanks for the help guys. I will tiller on...slowly! :laugh:
Mitch
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God day,
Finally got back to the bow after my birthday weekend. Got some bending done and started some tillering. Took some more reflex out and gave both limbs a more similar profile. I'm gonna get on it tonight again after I figure out how to get my scraper sharp.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8257.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8257.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8260.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8260.jpg.html)
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http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,14888.0.html
How to sharpen a scraper
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I like that, I'm gonna try it out right now.
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Ok I haven't posted a pic of the Black Locus in awhile becomes of the Osage has consumed my time. So anyways I've attempted a style of tip overlays that I've never tried before so here it is. Don't have a clue what type of wood it is besides it smells like some sort of fancy coffee when your cutting and sanding on it. Please tell me if they need to be thinner shorter or just plain take em off and try again. I'm a big boy and can take it.
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Can you post an unbraced photo?
Patrick
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160215_114926798.jpg)
Turtle. Your upper limthe fade out the the bump in the limb looks flat to me. But that's me. Half Eye or Fred might see something different
Yes, I worked the fade to about 6 inches out after I posted the pics and it seems to be coming around better.
After you get your fade moving better. Take a look at about a 4 inch spot just past your whoopty-doo. Looks like it's not Bending there to me. But just check it, because I would have to see it bend myself to be sure. Your thickness taper will help to.
Patrick
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Gut, you can do whatever you want with overlays. What you have will work just fine.
If they were mine I would work in getting the transition from the back of the bow to the overlay smoothed out so it looks and feels like one piece of wood. And the area past the knock groove is all excess. You could shorten them or not, it doesn't matter but you could take some off there but not absolutely necessary. Just what I would do.
Patrick
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Gutshot - here are a few pics of a tip that might give you some ideas. This is not one of my bows, they are some pics I copied and saved - don't know who to give credit to, but someone here on PA most likely!
x2 what Patrick said. You can shape them however you like.
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Tillered a bit more on my hackberry bow.
Currently out to 20" and still have room to make weight. Beginning to take a little set - appears to be pretty even and distributed ok.
Pics - Brace, at 20", and unbraced.
Question 1 - do you think the bends are looking ok for a parallel profile?
Question 2 - this bow has not been heated at all. It started with just a bit of natural reflex. Do you think it would benefit from a belly toasting and maybe a bit of added reflex at this point? Weight is not an issue as I should be able to make that fine. Just wondering if it would make for a snappier shooting bow?
Thanks,
Mitch
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Started heat treating the stick....bought a mike stand....really digging it!
(http://i.imgur.com/MXx2C72.jpg?1)
That's really coming along MWO
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Tillered a bit more on my hackberry bow.
Currently out to 20" and still have room to make weight. Beginning to take a little set - appears to be pretty even and distributed ok.
Pics - Brace, at 20", and unbraced.
Question 1 - do you think the bends are looking ok for a parallel profile?
Question 2 - this bow has not been heated at all. It started with just a bit of natural reflex. Do you think it would benefit from a belly toasting and maybe a bit of added reflex at this point? Weight is not an issue as I should be able to make that fine. Just wondering if it would make for a snappier shooting bow?
Thanks,
Mitch
Looks to me like the outer third on the left limb is a bit stiff. Right limb looks like it's getting most of the bend closer to the fade. Mid limb is Bending some, but stiffer on the outer third. Just my thoughts.
Patrick
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Gutshot, Think the overlays look nice, and the overall shape is really a matter of personal taste as was said. If they look good to your eye you can always reduce them after shooting it some if it looks like they are an issue. They used to look like that "back in the day" when a lot of bowstringers were made with leather pockets 8)
MW, I cant see good enough to see the actual numerators on you horizontal line but if you look at all you pics you can see that for the last 2 denominators your limb tips are stiff with veru little to no bend. That is where your set is creeping in (compared to your original line). Basically I believe that you are going for stiff tips BUT right now they are too long....so if you work the bend a little further out toward the tips you will relieve that strain point at the second denominator, and still have the stiff tips.
It is a testament to your even tiller though that both limbs are showing the same point of set (or stress).
rich
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Thanks Pearl Drums, that's very helpful to me.
Is there a different tillering balance for a bow for a person who holds a bow more toward the top of the hand between the thumb and index finger with a more open hand than one who holds the grip hitting mainly lower in the hand?
If I send a bow in a trade is it possible it seems balanced for me but not somebody else because I don't know how they hold it? (I'm right at the point in tillering now and starting to shoot it where this is something I would like to understand.)
Thanks again for answering these questions.
I suppose its possible. If you are making a bow for another person in never hurts to ask if they like a low wrist or a high wrist. That shifts the balance point by up to 2". Truth is? 98% of the bows we all build are a typical med/low wrist type grip and most any of us would shoot them fine without balance issues. And, its not hard to grab a bow and find its balance point. I shape most of my grips in a way that you cant grab them wrong, its not a choice basically.
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Thanks Patrick and Rich - appreciate the help!
Mitch
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No problem bud, I've been just watching for a while. Haven't felt like posting a bunch. But I'm back on track now and it feels good to help out again.
Patrick
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Thanks, Pearl Drums, that clears up some things for me.
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Thanks, Pearl Drums, that clears up some things for me.
Yes thanks Pearl! I never thought about that but I did learn something from your responses. Myself, I kinda make the handles like you said, where you can't mistake where to hold them.
Patrick
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Id appreciate a pictorial example of this.
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mwosborn, I would temper that hackberry now. You will like the results.
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Got a sweet piece of Ironwood from Rich today. Never worked it before so any advice would be great. Got the temper evened out on my hackberry today and started roughin out another hackberry . Gutshot do your tips however ya want they look cool as is.MW, that hack looks nice and i agree on bringin those tips around somemore. Man i love this thread. Gettin advice from Pearl Drums, Patrick, Badly Bent and others just shows how cool bowyers really are. Thanx guys \m/
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Here's the ironwood from Rich.
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SUCCESS FINALLY! Well, I finally got this stave straight. I hate to be defeated by a piece of wood :-( Heating the section of handle made some progress but not enough.
Hey ajooter, I used your idea of steaming it and then hitting it with the heat gun. That finally worked. Thanks man! I steamed that baby for an hour last night, clamped it in my end vise, greased it up, hit it with the heat gun for ten minutes and pulled the limb 7/16" past alignment. Finally got great alignment today when I took it out of the clamp.
So, this afternoon I refined the profile and started floor tillering. I'll get back on the floor tillering this evening.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%20Straight_zpspt49jnow.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%20Straight_zpspt49jnow.jpg.html)
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mwosborn, I would temper that hackberry now. You will like the results.
I agree - thanks. Going to work the tips just a bit and then toast it up!
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Congratulations on that Drewster! :)
That was a tough one.
Beautiful stave Stixnstones. Rich, you're the man!
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Drewster - looks good - your persistence paid off!
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I'm just getting ready to do my layouts on a couple this weekend and you guys are damn near done!!!
I opted to wait for warmer weather. Today would have been good but I'm searching for a runaway dog and now high school state wrestling championships are going on. I won't get much done but will show some progress tomorrow.
I do have one sinewed bw drying that won't take long after the curing process I hope.
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Drewster way to hang with it
Stix that's a cool peace of wood ya got there.
I've worked the tips a little more on the BL. BUT ITS UK BASKETBALL TIME SO IM TAKING THE NIGHT OFF
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SUCCESS FINALLY! Well, I finally got this stave straight. I hate to be defeated by a piece of wood :-( Heating the section of handle made some progress but not enough.
Hey ajooter, I used your idea of steaming it and then hitting it with the heat gun. That finally worked. Thanks man! I steamed that baby for an hour last night, clamped it in my end vise, greased it up, hit it with the heat gun for ten minutes and pulled the limb 7/16" past alignment. Finally got great alignment today when I took it out of the clamp.
So, this afternoon I refined the profile and started floor tillering. I'll get back on the floor tillering this evening.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%20Straight_zpspt49jnow.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%20Straight_zpspt49jnow.jpg.html)
Drewster what kind of tools you got there hanging above the brace and bit
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ITS UK BASKETBALL TIME SO IM TAKING THE NIGHT OFF
I didn't know basketball was big in the United Kingdom.
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Drewster, nice job taming that stave and I have to comment that your shop is real nice. It's so tidy and organized that it's making me feel like a slob, looks like a very nice place to be making bows. :)
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ITS UK BASKETBALL TIME SO IM TAKING THE NIGHT OFF
I didn't know basketball was big in the United Kingdom.
University of Kentucky not the UNITED KINDOM
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Drewster, nice job taming that stave and I have to comment that your shop is real nice. It's so tidy and organized that it's making me feel like a slob, looks like a very nice place to be making bows. :)
Hey Greg, maybe we should start a competition on a new thread. We could call it "The dirtiest shop on PA" we could give away a toilet brush for the worst one. That way they could clean up all their crap! >:D
Patrick
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I don't want a toilet brush man!!!
But I'll take a plunger ;)
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I don't want a toilet brush man!!!
But I'll take a plunger ;)
Now that's funny right there!
My wife would swear that I would win! What she don't know is that it could be worse if I didn't have to work in the driveway to make my big messes!
Patrick
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Got one limb done...might have gotten a little crazy with the reflex. Really like using the mike stand to heat treat.
(http://i.imgur.com/fJj0IH0.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/sSJHPeC.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/7OkqnW2.jpg?1)
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Drewster, nice job taming that stave and I have to comment that your shop is real nice. It's so tidy and organized that it's making me feel like a slob, looks like a very nice place to be making bows. :)
Hey Greg, maybe we should start a competition on a new thread. We could call it "The dirtiest shop on PA" we could give away a toilet brush for the worst one. That way they could clean up all their crap! >:D
Patrick
I would be in the running for it for sure
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Drewster what kind of tools you got there hanging above the brace and bit
[/quote]
Gutshot, a couple of bow saws. The one on the left is a store bought one. The one on the right is one I made many years ago......it used to be my band saw. Don't use it much any more. I finally got a REAL band saw ;-)
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Ajooter, like the handle lam. I would definetly be in for messy shop, actually messy bench, the rest of garage is "organised" 😝
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Drewster, nice job taming that stave and I have to comment that your shop is real nice. It's so tidy and organized that it's making me feel like a slob, looks like a very nice place to be making bows. :)
Thanks Greg. Some of my shop IS NOT that well organized. But, I do like to be able to grab the tool I need quickly and then have a home to put it back in place. At least I "think" it makes me more efficient......sometimes ;-)
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Drewster what kind of tools you got there hanging above the brace and bit
Gutshot, a couple of bow saws. The one on the left is a store bought one. The one on the right is one I made many years ago......it used to be my band saw. Don't use it much any more. I finally got a REAL band saw ;-)
[/quote]
That's cool I like old hand tools and sometimes you just got to ask what stuff is. Thanks
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ITS UK BASKETBALL TIME SO IM TAKING THE NIGHT OFF
I didn't know basketball was big in the United Kingdom.
University of Kentucky not the UNITED KINDOM
Just yanking your chain 8)
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I started working on an eastern red cedar sapwood bow last night and got it bending through the handle a bit (enough to start tillering). It's just shy of 54". Anyone know anything about erc sapwood? I'm sure it should be rawhide backed. But will it hit a 28" draw or am I wasting my time. I'll get pics up later today. It's 1 1/2"@ fades. I appreciate any advice on this guy. I'm working this weekend but. Get off Monday morning. Going to start backing a few bows so I can get them shooting.
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Hoping this weekend is going to be a littlle slower paced than last weekend. I have my Plan B stave to chase a ring on, and I'm considereing trying to work Plan A to floor tiller to get a little less wood on there that has to dry.
I've been watching the back on that stave to see if it has any checks appearing. For those of you who use Osage a lot, one a ring is chased, should I reapply a sealent to the back to keep it from possibly checking?
Also, that stave is probably 1.5" to 1.75" thick, maybe even 2 inches in places. Should I think about splitting it again from the belly side, to get it down to maybe between 3/4 and 1" thick? If I go that route, should I kerf it like I did the back? If that works, maybe I can use the belly split part to make my daughter(s) a bow, I have some bamboo that would work for a backing, it's only 3/4 inch wide after thinning it to 1/8", so I can't use it on a "grownup" bow (not long enough for an ELB type bow either).
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I'd definitely reapply a sealer do the back after chasing a ring.
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Sidmand, Timothy is correct, I have seen Osage check after chasing a ring even if it's a seasoned stave, not many times though...My favorite is good old Elmer's glue, just a quick thin coat and you can wipe it off with a damp rag later...
Don
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TR - I have worked erc a couple of times, but never something that short. I think you would be hard pressed to get 28" out of it...but you certainly could prove me wrong! I would suggest sinew backing it. ERC makes a really light snappy bow. Getting it there without it exploding is the tricky part. :laugh:
This one is mostly sapwood - sinewed back. I hunted with it this year and shot a nice doe with it.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,38400.msg509821.html#msg509821
Mitch
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Well fellas, got my 3 done and you have to settle for teaser pic.....some parts are not shown to save some surprises for recipients (like decorated bellies etc.).
Enjoy the pics >:D I'm going to start on a series of bows that I'm calling my "magnum opus". we'll see how that goes.
rich
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Looking good from here Rich, 3 different designs at once, jeesh you been busy...
Don
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TR - I have worked erc a couple of times, but never something that short. I think you would be hard pressed to get 28" out of it...but you certainly could prove me wrong! I would suggest sinew backing it. ERC makes a really light snappy bow. Getting it there without it exploding is the tricky part. :laugh:
This one is mostly sapwood - sinewed back. I hunted with it this year and shot a nice doe with it.
Mitch
thanks Mitch. I'll sinew back it and just try for a 26" draw.
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Those look great Rich!
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What ever happened to...you guys are killing me....I'm way behind...I better get to work....I don't wanna hear it rich! 8)
Those are some nice looking sticks right there...the Penobscot looks stout btw! Which one is mine again?! >:D
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Those look mighty fine. Dang Rich, you are a bow making machine.
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Well here's the latest. I tied this osage r/d from tips 1/4" past handle to 3" past and then I threw a fat course of whitetail back sinew on and then a big fat crowning course of moose leg on that. Now IU get to watch it for a couple weeks and work on the other osage. I don't think the lilac is trade material although it will still be a cool character bow if it survives me.
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Man Rich those look awesome. can't wait till the next bows you post.
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Rich - those look like mighty fine bows. Somebody will enjoy shooting them for sure!
The sinew looks good Dubois - now wait...and wait...and wait. :laugh:
I did some heating to my hackberry and continued to tiller - try and get some pics up in a bit.
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Took some hunting but I found the Rich bows pics. Dang buddy!! Those are fine works of art there. You ever take a break ;)
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Those are some sweet looking bows Rich.
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Since 2010 I've seen "magna opera" from you, so "magnum opus" will be interesting sir...Yea, been researching again Rich, headed to the shop to work on that saw blade steel you sent and will email you some pics later...
Don
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Dubois that's a mighty fine sinew job.
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Nice looking trio of bows Rich, looks like you got hammered with the white stuff up there.
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Thank all of you for the nice comments. I hope the recipients like them. I think mine are pretty plain and a lot of folks dont think much of 'em.....but these three will flat send arrows 8).
I wish I had enough wood to build a trade bow for everybody in this trade, all you guys are making really nice bows and I would be proud to exchange with each and every one of you 8) 8) 8)
Doob's please tell me it aint so, for the love of God man. >:D :-X
rich
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Hi Guys,
got the limbs down to brace, weight seems to be about right, maybe a little light, 25# at brace but the lash-up 'riser' has served its purpose so now I will make something nice from cherry. Here's what I have learned
1. notching the limb does not help hold it in place - the notch will always act as a lever, and an incredibly poweful one at that - it literally pulled a Sapele (African mahogany) riser apart - the photos show the remains of the notch if you look carefully;
2. trying to catch the tip of a riser in a mortice is pointless - it squeaks and creaks like crazy as you cannot stop the limb tip from flexing when the limb bends;
3. you need to use the bigest washers you can on the bolts as the forces involved are huge.
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/02/image-e1455979200795.jpg)
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/02/image1-e1455979132836.jpg)
I realise the centre block si messing things up and the next task is to sort that out but I have a couple of questions in the meantime. The second photo is about a 2" draw, I think the levers may be too long? I believe the curve should be eliptical, so the outer third needs to be moving more? Also, any reason I can't reflex the limbs at the handle when I carve the riser for real?
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Rich, you're way ahead of all of us. Nice bows!!! I'm going to hit you up for lessons on those Penobscot. I've got to try one of those.
I did finally get some work done yesterday. We've fortunately had some nice warm weather and most of the snow from our blizzard is gone except for drifts and other low areas. Should get more work done on a couple today. Both will be 60+ osage that should bend in the handle at full draw. And the sinew on the black walnut is dry enough that I should be able to start working i on the long string.
I did get one of the osage down close enough to bow dimensions that I removed the twist and lined the handle and tips yesterday. One heat session might be all that's needed on this one. The other will take a bit more work.
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Looks good fred! I'm looking forward to putting some time into my trade bows today. Hopefully have some pictures later.
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The steam worked on my red bud handle. Actually, I ended up overcorrecting and the tips were off in the other direction. The steam opened up several drying checks in the handle. I was planning to fill these with CA glue, smooth off the back of the handle, and add another overlay on the handle to get a little more thickness.
The deflex in one limb was enough that I am having a hard time judging the stiffness while floor tillering, so I decided to put it back on a caul to take the deflex out before proceeding with tillering, and decided to use the dry heat on the handle while working on the limbs. Will pull it off this evening to see how well it took.
In the meantime, I am getting back to the dogwood. I have the outer bark roughed off, leaving the cambium, going to be slower getting off this inner bark to get down to the first ring.
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Looking good Fred!! Glad your getting some warmer weather.
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Rich, I just saw your photos -- I don't know how I missed the last two pages of this trade thread yesterday. Wonderful bows! No wonder you were so quiet recently......
re. "plain" bows -- I like real looking bows that show where they come from and how they were made, and look like a real person made them, easily as much as the showstopper highly finished bows. Actually, I like all styles of bows, in different ways, unless they came off a manufacturing floor. But for building them, I've gravitated toward just liking the basic form of the wood and the tree or sapling it came from. And I appreciate seeing the maker's shaping of it with his or her instincts, and whatever trials and tribulations with the wood that got them there. Every bow tells a story. That's how I see it.
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JAnderson; Is that your lilac? looking good. Mine is a little thin in the handle so I am taking out of the race and will pursue a solution later.
Rich; yes I am a glutton but this thing is only 1.25" at the widest >:D >:D
Looking good Gut, MW, Ajooter and on and on....
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Hey Stuck....
I have never made a take-down Mollegabet but have made a few of the regular ones. I dont think your levers are too long at all. But now that you have the limbs refined as far as you do I would recommend that you tiller from the lever fade towards the grip fade. I usually make my working limbs a round even bend.....if you start at the lever fades and work the bend in toward the grip you should minimize your high grip area stress, especially early on.
Also you may wish to consider a thin "pad" between the limb and riser.....I've seen some that had a piece of hard, dense rubber maybe a 1/8" thick between them. Most of the old comercial models had a "blind pin" fit below the bolt to provide 2 points of alignment for each limb.
Sorry could not be more help
rich
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I've made weight and draw, and had a chance to shoot the plan B bow enough to be happy with it. I guess it's time to finish it off. Here's a few last pics:
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowB10.jpg)
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowB9.jpg)
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowB11.jpg)
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowB12.jpg)
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Hey Stuck....
I have never made a take-down Mollegabet but have made a few of the regular ones. I dont think your levers are too long at all. But now that you have the limbs refined as far as you do I would recommend that you tiller from the lever fade towards the grip fade. I usually make my working limbs a round even bend.....if you start at the lever fades and work the bend in toward the grip you should minimize your high grip area stress, especially early on.
Also you may wish to consider a thin "pad" between the limb and riser.....I've seen some that had a piece of hard, dense rubber maybe a 1/8" thick between them. Most of the old comercial models had a "blind pin" fit below the bolt to provide 2 points of alignment for each limb.
Sorry could not be more help
rich
Thanks Rich, that's really useful, do you think leather would do for a pad? The photos don't show the limbs disassembled but there is a blind pin in each one but good to have the concept confirmed
Andrew
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Leather should work just fine sir.....but I think some really stiff stuff like shoe sole material and thin (even if ya got to sand it) I think that the pads are there for shock absorbers so even if they seem way too stiff they probably are just right.
Mr. B.....if ya need my address again be happy to send it 8)
rich
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Plan B
nice looking birch bow. The original sudbury was hickory iirc? I think that I once read the estimated weight of the original was mid 40's ? it seems like you have got the design working pretty good in birch, and a few inches shorter, to boot? Does the handle bend slightly?
Hope you get a chance to post a pic at full draw along with the specs. There are so many bows in this thread it's hard to keep up......but thats a good thing.
willie
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PlanB, that bow looks excellent......nice work man!
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PlanB, that bow looks excellent......nice work man!
+1 here
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PB, that things a real looker.
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Yep - a nice looking bow PB.
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I spent the afternoon working down the back of and interesting osage stave. Lots of knots and red streaks in it. Thick rings, but Lunar rings too that have made it a little tricky. The two staves I am working with are this osage and a piece of Yew I got from Fred (Thanks again Fred). If they both work out, one will be my trade bow, and the other will go to my brother for his birthday. If only one works out, it will be my trade bow, and my brother will get the one sent to me--so whoever has me, make it a good one for him!
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WOW! you go away for a few days and it s hard to catch up on all the action, great progress all....sweet bows Rich. I will have pics of my elm progress in a day or two- Hammertime
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PlanB. Somebody is gonna be very happy. Nice bow
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Jeffp51 those are some good looking sticks on your shave horse
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I pulled the red bud off the caul and put a string on the tips... they are now lined up with the center of the handle. Also got the dogwood scraped and ready for a layout.
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Thank all you guys for the great comments, it's a real pleasure to make a bow for someone here, and work along side of you :)
Wilie, yes the handle does bend some. I can't give away the draw and weight right yet, but I can say it's 58-1/2" ntn, black birch, and it's the leftover piece after I snapped off a good 6" chunk of one end while steaming that tip. The fades had to be lengthened in order for me to move the handle toward the unbroken end, so it is a little more Sudbury-like in appearance than it started, but not a real replica -- quite a bit shorter, less tapered to mid limb, and the handle is a little wider. Still I do like that it went a little in that direction -- by accident or luck or something. Thought it was done for when the end snapped off. :o
Now I'm glad it did. It isn't perfect -- it has 1-1/2" string follow, so not quite as fast as the Plan A bow. But it is by far the most accurate bow I've built. I couldn't believe how good I was shooting today. Or it was..... I don't think I had much to do with it! There's a little twist in one tip, which I will leave. But I think it's my best bow so far and my favorite. I'm going to finish it, and then shoot it in for a few hundred arrows to make sure. And then it will belong to somebody here.
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Loope that sure is a nice character bow
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PlanB, that is a sweet looking piece of birch. A little string follow can make for a sweet shooting bow.
Loope, that redbud is looking real nice.
All I did today was take the deflex out of the ends of my piece of white birch with steam. I hope to get in my shop tomorrow. I still need to get string alignment taken care of before I do anything else. I also started chasing a ring on another piece of BL. I have trouble staying away from the BL because I have had such good luck with it.
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I got the rock elm looking good on the tiller tree. The fades need just a little more scraping, but that's often the way my builds go. I glued on some water buffalo nock overlays and will be shaping them tomorrow after they dry. Prior to the glue up, I was only a few inches short of full draw and over weight so I should slide into home with no issues.
That's a gorgeous yew stave you got there Jeff. I don't know if you've ever worked yew before but, wood comes off with far less effort than osage that's for sure. Just a couple passes with the rasp and you remove as much wood as you do scraping OO for an hour. Just go slow, especially with the belly during tiller.
Fred, if you're just giving away perfectly straight knot free yew I'd like to remind you that you have my address sir.
Rich, when I started building I tried to make my bows look impressive, be it with the finish, fancy cut handles/shelf, or layered glue ups with exotic wood. Every time I focused on looks rather than function I ended up with firewood(even a good knot on my head once). When it comes down to it, bows aren't for lookin at. The true beauty in a bow lies in what they do with the arrow. Nice work.
Plan B, really impressive bow, especially with the chosen wood. Makes me look at birch in a new light.
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Kid....I agree with your statement above through and through. I end up in the same boat usually.
B....that bow is looking great. That 1.5" string follow shouldn't hurt anything and with the design and stats it's probably right oon. I would imagine e birch is a very light wood?
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While further reducing my second stave this Crack showed up. Turns out it went clean through to the back. I had left the cambium on and didn't think I needed to seal the back. The Crack may have erupted from a small branch that was broken off when I cut it.
Anyway....I ended up with very little bow wood and made a small bow from the slivers that were left. I was quite disappointed. Had I know the Crack was there I could have split it early on and got a decent weight bow out of it. Oh well such is life!
(http://i.imgur.com/TdQ0JRv.jpg?1)
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Jeff - those are some nice looking staves. Someday I will find some yew to work.
Loope - looks like you have the tips lined up - that is one crooked stick - looking forward to seeing it take shape! The dogwood looks perfectly straight - you are working on opposites with those two!
Fred - the weather warmed up a bit for us and the snow mostly gone - glad you could get out and work some on your bows. Looking good. Weather looks good for the next week anyway. Better make hay before we get our March blizzard!!
ajooter - no chance of gluing that crack with some cyanoacrylate?
Not much time to work on my trade bow yesterday - did just a little bit of tillering. Maybe get a little time today.
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The Crack went all the way through. It was a hefty stave....4" wide by 2" deep. Had a I seen the Crack early on I would have tried splitting it.
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Some real nice stuff being posted the last few days,
Hat off for PlanB and half eye for some sweet bows!
Loope: Geez! And I thought mine had some funny curves init.
Dubois: How come you put a extra sinew along the center? Yeah it's the lilac. I got it to 50 @12" and the way it look s now I don't think I'll have much limb left by the time I'm done with it.
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Hey fellas,
Got the strings made for the Penobscot, and checked to full draw and shot it some. Then happened to notice that the upper limb at a point of 4" or so from full draw out to full draw torques pretty good (like twist)....and then returns to normal at brace......so I'm building another bow because this one aint going nowhere.....especially to one of you guys.
Got a piece of real snaky stuff, nibbled that down to rough width, steam bent it to align the tips and grip, will rough out the thickness later today.
Here are some pics of Mr. Snaky
rich
PS: I hope all of you guys are having a good experience and a bunch of fun....I know I am and really glad to get the chance to be apart of this trade......no I dont want to get a room...but it's a real pleasure working with all of ya. 8) 8) 8)
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Man Rich that must be a sister to that Osage I'm working on
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I like that snake little number rich....should make a unique bow for sure!
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Gutshot, I hear ya man.....but the belly split (sawed off) is headed south real soon so we'll see >:D
Ajooter, I sure hope it makes a good one.....never had that happen before with the Penobscot type bows so I dont know if it is a problem or not as far as longevity goes.
rich
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Rich, it's an honor to have you helping all of us out. This trade seems to be as good as it gets. Great group for sure. Sorry about that Penobscot tip twist. Wood sure has a mind of its own and a surprise in every piece......but that's what keeps it interesting.
First Brace. Got Miss Ornery braced for the first time this afternoon at about 3". Let me know what you think. The right side is the top limb.....at least for now. The left limb has some propeller twist in the middle 2/3 section. My next step will be heat treating and I'm hoping I can take some of this twist out during the heat treating. Hope Miss Ornery doesn't continue to be ornery. I wasn't looking for THIS much of a challenge for my trade bow. Boy, every bow is a tutor.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Miss%20Ornery_zpswn3tq5sf.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Miss%20Ornery_zpswn3tq5sf.jpg.html)
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Drew, looks pretty good for low brace. Tiller looks close but hard to tell much from photos. You're getting close to being finished from the looks of it.
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Drewster,
I took the liberty of putting a mark on your pic. I think that a few scrapes there on the "strong side" of the limb will go a long way to helping with the twist and evening out the bend. It looks like the strong side is against the chalkboard.
Take a look at it and make your own judgement sir.....
rich
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Sorry to here about the penobscot Rich. Cant wait to see that snake bending though.
Did get my dogwood billets moved to my hotbox today.
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Jeff P51, really nice wood you got there!
Loope, that is going to be one cool bow when you're done with it!
Swampman, really looking forward to what you can do with your white birch.
Rich, too bad about the Penobscot, but you don't seem to let much stop you! Your snake bow will be cool.
ajooter, sorry about that crack in the stave. But you've been turning out the bows, too, I bet you have yet another planned? re. birch -- the black (sweet) birch is actually pretty heavy, but it's also very stiff, so you end up with fairly thin limbs, and similar mass to anything else. White birch is less dense, and less stiff, so it will yield a thicker limb, again at about the same mass -- at least according to the mass principle. I have a third variety -- yellow birch -- haven't tried it yet. It is dense and stiff, and also has interlocking grain, which black birch does not. Almost like elm in that respect. I will probably try some yellow birch after the spring when I plan to cut some. White, I won't be trying because most of mine has died out, and I want to let the survivors grow.
Drewster your stuff looks ten times better on the tree at any particular moment than mine does. Very neat work.
jandersson, thank you kindly!
Dakota, your elm sounds mighty fine with those tips added. re. the birch -- I'm liking black birch -- it grows straight and tall and limbless for 30 or more feet, so it's easy to get clear wood out of it. Most common hardwood I have growing here, so I'm glad i can use it. I'll be curious to see the difference in yellow birch.....
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Mr. B
I have made a handfull of Eastern Woodland bendies from yellow birch and they proved to be excellent bows. They are quite snappy little shooters.
rich
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Rich, I'd love to see those if you have any pix.....
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Ok, so my plan A has been givin me fits at every turn and plan 2 is gonna be somethin to finish some other time. Sooo got my 3rd hackberry almost ruffed out. Will be postin pics in next couple days. I'm jealous of all u guys, everyone's work looks so good.
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Mr B....I'll check both compiters and see if any survived (pics that is) I know I posted at least 2 of 'em but dont know if the pics are still on the old threads. Let me check sir......
rich
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Well guys...id like some advice. This is a stave I roughed out in the beginning. Its almost 68" and longer then I would have wanted for the draw im shooting for but I want to finish the bow anyway. I posted a picture of the unbraced profile and the current tiller at 14" @ ~35#. I kind of wanted to keep the natural profile of the stave instead of trying to steam and heat the stave into a more desirable shape. Right now the right limb which is the top is coming around nicely. Im not sure what I should do with the left?
When I get it closer to brace it will probably heat treat the bow and add a little reflex (that's when I usually do it anyway). The unbraced profile is how this stave started...didn't have any great characteristics starting out. Just wanted to hear your thoughts. Thanks in advance for your comments.
(http://i.imgur.com/KHdcL4h.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/kcvTkIX.jpg?1)
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Ajooter,
On that left limb between the natural dippsy doodle and the grip fade the limb is stiffer than that area of the right one. I think if you scrape a small amount of bend in that area your limb should resemble the right except the outter half of lefty will be low compared to righty but the bends will be even......if you try that go real slow and check often because it will change pretty quickly.
rich
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Should I focus more towards the 'dipsy doodle' rich? I agree with you....I'm sure when it decides to move it will go fast.
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Well I ended up with a minor problem with my trade bow so I gave it a backing of raw hide and mummy fide it. Hopefully that ole BL will be ok. Any ways here's the last pic you guys will see of it until it comes out of the fummer Thursday then I will post pics of a before and after
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This is where the left looks stiff to me sir......but they do call me "half-eye" >:D
rich
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Gutshot, looks like ya fixed that little bugger......cant wait to see the color sir.
rich
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Rich when did the Sioux start branding air tools 😃
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I'll give it a go sir....your half eye is better then both of my good ones anyway. ;)
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Drewster,
I took the liberty of putting a mark on your pic. I think that a few scrapes there on the "strong side" of the limb will go a long way to helping with the twist and evening out the bend. It looks like the strong side is against the chalkboard.
Take a look at it and make your own judgement sir.....
rich
Rich, yep, think you are correct. I'll work on that tomorrow. The twist in the left limb was like that in the stave. It straightens out again at the tip. Hope I can get some of the twist out when I heat treat. Doesn't look to great. Thanks for your feedback. Drew
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When is the ship date?
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Hey drew....sometimes trying to tiller your way through the twist first is a better option. As you thin the limbs down and continue tillering sometimes it just works itself out. Just my 2 cents. I'm working hickory right now as well....it can be stubborn stuff.
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Hey drew....sometimes trying to tiller your way through the twist first is a better option. As you thin the limbs down and continue tillering sometimes it just works itself out. Just my 2 cents. I'm working hickory right now as well....it can be stubborn stuff.
Ajooter, I wanted to heat treat before I tillered any further. I was hoping that would get some of the twist out and then proceed with tillering. I usually heat treat after floor tillering and even before I get to my first brace. What do you think?
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Sorry for the lack of updates guys.
I haven't done much to my trade bow. Took a little break from it, so I didn't get ahead of myself. Hopefully I'll get to working on it again here soon! :)
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That's exactly how I usually do it. Twist is tough though. I just made a fine hickory bow...didn't get all the twist out during heat treatment but close.
I placed a pipe wrench on the limb with a wooden wedge to protect the limb and tied a rope to the end of it. As I started heat treating it I continually pulled the rope down and tied it off as I worked my way down the limb.
Good luck sir!
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Drewster,
If that is how you usually do it then I say to carry on that way.....usually folks tend to stick with what works for them. I have never heat treated on a caul, not ever so I'm not in a position to say that's not the way to do it. I tend to run my mouth based on how I do things.....so it is entirely possible that your way is better sir 8)
Gutshot, Hell man I didn't know when they started casting metal. You got a wicked sense of humor sir ;)
Turtle, I sure hope my guy likes it and thank you
A big thank you to all of you fellas, for letting me in this trade cause all of you have give me back the fire in my belly for building bows again. 8)
rich
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Rich,
Cant wait to see that Osage snake come to life bud...
Don
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I resealed the back on PlanA with some white glue, so that it didn't get any checks. I wanted to start chasing a ring on PlanB this weekend, but life sort of got in the way. It is still needing to dry some anyways, so it's fine for now. God willing, I'm going to split some off the belly of PlanA this week, in hopes to get the whole stave a mostly uniform 7/8ish thick, then get it floor tillered. It's raining here now, will be for the next day or so. I know you northern guys have been getting hammered with the snow, we have gotten drowned with rain this winter.
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Sorry for the lack of updates, with work and life interfering I get maybe a half hour to work on the stave at a time and it feels like I have barely made any progress. Slowly whittling away the sapwood still. Each time I pick it up though, it does feel a bit lighter.
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Come on!! Boil water.......Dry sinew.......Dry paint......Dry sinew
Well, I got a little on the other osage. Thought I'd do a little rawhide tip over under thing.
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Dubois, I know exactly what you mean. I started the finish on my trade bow, and watching that dry is about as exciting as....well watching paint dry. ::)
Being a nice day, I decided to get out and start prospecting. I found a clump of young elms I've been meaning to take down for awhile and I decided to cut them while it's cold before the elm beetles were out and attracted to the odor. There's two beautiful 50 footers nearby and I don't want them getting dutch elm disease.
This clump was all tangled up with oriental bittersweet, and tough to get down -- I had to cut through every trunk and several vines to get it to fall. The 1" thick vine had grown into some of the wood higher up and ruined it. Another invasive I'm glad to get rid of!
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/ElmClump.jpg)
I saw a lot of trees and shrubs of interest now that the leaves are gone in one spot: wild apple, buckthorn (invasive), a good sized honeysuckle (invasive), many 8" elms -- one fallen over, but still alive and sending up perfectly straight suckers, and a lot of multiflora rose covering the honeysuckle -- I guess you can make arrows out of that. Another invasive good to cut for archery.
A little beyond I spotted my three types of birch and took a photo in case anyone is interested; white, yellow, and black (or sweet). Typical growth habits here -- the white is dead, as most of mine are now, don't know why. The yellow is forked and twisty with low limbs. And the black is arrow straight and tall with no low limbs and thick non-papery bark. It is smooth on younger trees like this one -- up to 10 inches or so, and then breaks up an gets tougher on old trees. It is the heaviest and hardest of the birches here, and the most common. Hope it's of interest.....
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/3Birches.jpg)
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DuBois, I'm interested to see what you're going to do with that. Keep us posted.
Well, it was a belly treating afternoon for me. Spent a little quality time with da olde heat gun. Hope that twist in one limb is greatly reduced. We'll find out tomorrow.
Cheers all!
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Heat%20Treat_zpsx4j2af5w.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Heat%20Treat_zpsx4j2af5w.jpg.html)
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Looks like a good day Plan b. You gathered some nice looking elm.
Drewster, I hope that twist stays out for you.
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(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/8B06DCCB-EE39-4634-91B7-EDA28BA1F2BF_zpsw6csut7o.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/8B06DCCB-EE39-4634-91B7-EDA28BA1F2BF_zpsw6csut7o.jpg.html)got thickness way down on mine.
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Hey Fellas,
Got the osage snake out to draw length and just slightly over weight which will allow me to tweek the tiller if I need/want to.
Here is the unbraced, braced and full draw. I really liked all the snake so did not take it all out of the side profile....just enough to get the limbs about the same. I also bent the ears back, sharp and 4" short....they are not static but also not fully working either (steam bend) and the only other adjustment was to steam the tips to move them laterally so the string was centered on the grip area.
Here's where it's at right now.
rich
PS: I added in a "front" snake pic from before so ya dont have to go back
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So cool! :)
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half eye you gotta be the most productive trader in this trade!. Is that the fifth?
PlanB: Yes very much of interest! I've always mix up Alder, Aspen and Birch in the winter. I'll bet a lot of what I thought was Alder was actually Black birch.
For my bow I'm at 50#@ 12". I had to rebend it again after it lost some of the shape I steamed in already. How should I think about tillering with the left limb having a little more curve to it?
Also playing around with a plan B/C option. This is a test bow I'm gluing up. Next time I will do the epoxy instead of tbIII, I had to hustle to get it all together before the glue was setting up.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8264.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8264.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8263.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8263.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8269.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8269.jpg.html)
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Dubois don't know what you got going on there with those tips but I'm sure it will be cool
PlanB wow you have your work cut out for you
Drewster that hickory will be perfect when you get done with it. I've got to say you are very patient.
Janderson looking good. I don't know of anybody that has more c clamps then you.
Half eye your going to have to get you a tribe of Indians up there to help you shoot all those bows your building. Keep it up.
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Drewster, I'm a great admirer of your shop, tools, bench and workmanship. You must be a long time woodworker -- I'm getting dejavu back to Woodcraft catalogs and the Fine Woodworking mags of the late '70's whenever I see a photo of your bow.
jandersson, black birch is real easy to tell if you break off a small twig or leaves and smell it. It will smell like wintergreen (or birch beer -- hence that name). It is also sometimes called sweet birch because of it. Also called cherry birch because when very young the saplings have a reddish shiny bark similar to cherry saplings, and the heartwood when first split is reddish. But the odor of the twigs is a dead giveaway. Nothing else like it.
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Mr. Andersson,
If you look real close at your draw pic you can see the area behind the C-clamp is stiff to the left limb......( I did the famous "line on the pic" thing. I think you are so close to perfect it's scary.....so if you decide to try scraping that area make sure to only do a couple scrapes and recheck.....couple scrapes and recheck.....bet it wont take very many to bring it around.
A little food for thought....as you allow that area to bend just a LITTLE more the right limb will round out and come forward like the right (just because of torque)
Plan B, very nice elm sir....is it Rock, Grey (American), red (slippery).....I really like the slippery myself even though the rock is supposed to be tougher.
Gutshot, Thats why I got a few friends to pawn 'em off on >:D
As far as building a lot....retired, old, and snowed in ::) 8)
rich
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forgot the pic
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Dang Rich, you can crank out a bow before I can think about what to do next......look'in mighty good.
Joakim, your bow is bending nicely when drawn. I would keep tillering. Keep the tips even and the bend smooth. What kind of wood you got glued up? Your set up looks great. I want to start doing some bows like that.
Gutshot, I got more patience than I do money ;-)
PlanB, yeah, been woodworking for a few years......since high school......and I'm 67. I built that bench when I was about 24 years old. I've spent a LOT of hours working at it. It's probably one of my most valuable tools. Would hate to be without it. BUT, I quickly figured out that building furniture and turning things on a lathe is a LOT different than building a bow. Building bows sure has been fun though........and a new challenge with every stave :-)
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Rich, I'm pretty sure it's American elm, but not totally. Heartwood isn't reddish like slippery is supposed to be, and Rock elm isn't supposed to grow this far east.
Drewster, same age then, great bench (and bow!) I was building boats at 24, and like you, bows are definitely a new skill.
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Jandersson, I would do what Rich said then see if the unbraced profile still looks like your top picture. If it does you could ad a little deflex in that right limb, just enough to make it match the other side. Then I would flip those tips about an inch and a half over about a 8 to 10 inch section from the tips back. Then you will have a pretty fast and stable bow. And it will have a 5 curve look to it. Just my thoughts.
Patrick
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Jeez - blink twice and this thread explodes with progress!
Dubois - watching with interest on the rawhide tips.
PB - thanks for the lesson on birch! We don't have native birch out here in the plains as far as I know - never came across any. You have a bunch on new bow wood. I need to get out and cut me some too!
Gut - What happened to the BL? I like rawhide as a backing - you can do a lot with stain, paint, etc, on rawhide. Hope it works out.
Drewster - looks like you got it laid out straight and flat to me - love the smell of toasting.
Rich - "tired, old, and snowed in"......life is good. That snake looks great. You are a tillering mad man!
jansersson - can't help with the tillering on that one - not enough experience! Looking good though. What are you using for the laminated bow? I like the profile.
Update on mine coming...
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I toasted the belly on this hackberry last week and tillered a bit this weekend. Getting close to having it to draw length. Glued a black walnut piece on handle to match tips and give me some material to contour a grip a little bit. Will finish tillering it out after I get the grip shaped some.
Here it is after gluing on the walnut.
After resting a few days, at 6 1/2" brace, pulled to ~24", and immediately after unbraced.
Tiller looking ok?
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Here are a few pics as I shaped the handle/grip area. Not finished - just rough shaped with files. Might change it some yet - kinda have to think on it before moving on...
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And worked the tips a bit. Here are the real rough tips used during tillering. Followed by the tips after shaping them to final shape with files. Still need to sand them yet....and file in new grooves.
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Thanks guys for the quick responses!
PlanB: Nice! There's a place where I thought the trees were all Aspen or Alders but now I'm gonna go and break some twiggs >:D
half eye: I've been careful with the handle area this time because I usually take to much there to start with. Would there be any reasons I should not make this a bendy handle? I could really need it to get to the draw length I need.
Drewster: It's hickory on maple and red oak. Just some scraps laying around and I would not care if I screwed up. Think I'm going to do hickory on cherry and erc belly next, use smooth on for glue and rope instead of the small clamps.
Gutshot: I regret getting all the small ones, crowding my space and after watching the Asian bowyers using rope I know thats what I'll use next.
lebhuntfish: I wanted to flip the tips a bit but I have some wood complications on one of the levers that makes that difficult but what I was thinking instead was to glue on something to at least maybe help out with the string angle.
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mwosborn: Hackberry looks great to me! But I'm no pro, I'd be happy with that tiller though.
My lam is just scraps of hickory, maple and redoak. I wanted to do a test bow and make adjustments before I use the nicer stuff. Did you use smooth on for yours? Also I didn't really like all the small clamps and gonna use rope next time for more even pressure.
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ja - I did use smooth on. I have it around for doing FG bows anyway and it is easy to use. Keep it above 70 for 24 hours and it cures fine. Will cure quicker in a hot box.
I didn't like the clamps either - I ended up getting a slight twist in mine that I was able to straighten some when gluing on the riser. If I make another one, I think I will build a form and use my air hose.
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With regard to the elm pictured earlier, I'd also say american. The bark on the rock elm looks like hackberry, which is a pretty unique looking bark. It's also closer in color to a white birch but not quite that white. I'm not sure about the slippery elm, haven't found one yet. The american has bark that reminds me of HHB but not as loose and flaky. I think I may enjoy finding and ID-ing the trees as much as the build.
We're losing a ton of ash around here. We'll be cutting at least 12 at my folks house before the beetles hatch. Seeing as how the wooded portion of the yard is only 400' by 90' That a fair amount. I'm guessing we'll find a couple more while we're dropping them to boot. On the bright side, I'll have more ash than I'll ever need. Some of it is the green species of ash too. I may make electric guitar bodies from that one though. I've heard it's good for those.
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Jeez - blink twice and this thread explodes with progress!
Dubois - watching with interest on the rawhide tips.
PB - thanks for the lesson on birch! We don't have native birch out here in the plains as far as I know - never came across any. You have a bunch on new bow wood. I need to get out and cut me some too!
Gut - What happened to the BL? I like rawhide as a backing - you can do a lot with stain, paint, etc, on rawhide. Hope it works out.
Drewster - looks like you got it laid out straight and flat to me - love the smell of toasting.
Rich - "tired, old, and snowed in"......life is good. That snake looks great. You are a tillering mad man!
jansersson - can't help with the tillering on that one - not enough experience! Looking good though. What are you using for the laminated bow? I like the profile.
Update on mine coming...
Clamp dents wasn't carefull. Not bad but I gave it some security with rawhide.
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Got my hackberry to brace and pullin 43# @ 23". The limb on right is top , a lil wonky. Also some of the flip started to pull out. Heated it back up last nite and flipped it again.
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Ja,
No reason you cant make it bend in the middle that I know of. Please remember to do it slow though. Bendies get the majority of their power from the middle of the bow so you need to work the existing fades toward the center very slowly so you can just feel it start to bend at say 3/4 to 7/8 draw length. This is where I think I have an advantage by tillering under tension (bow braced) and in my lap......scrape a little and draw, etc etc
Gutshot,
got to believe that bow your working will last a lifetime sir 8)
MW...
nice looking bows ya got going right there
Planb,
Made a bunch from American elm also....all the Elms are real good bow wood....in my opinion
Stix
Looks like you are getting that bugger whipped into real fine shape sir.
All these bows are looking real nice and if any of you forgot my address be happy to re-send it >:D >:D >:D >:D
rich
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Osage belly, what are these dark streaks and will it hurt anything
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I toasted the belly on this hackberry last week and tillered a bit this weekend. Getting close to having it to draw length. Glued a black walnut piece on handle to match tips and give me some material to contour a grip a little bit. Will finish tillering it out after I get the grip shaped some.
Here it is after gluing on the walnut.
After resting a few days, at 6 1/2" brace, pulled to ~24", and immediately after unbraced.
Tiller looking ok?
Hey buddy now that I'm on my work PC I can see your bend better. Im not sure that your bend isn't just fine but your right limb is weaker than your left. Also compare the lengths of your two fades, it looks to me that the left fad is a little longer than your right fade. I see this all the time when helping someone with their bow. Also a good way to check the limb balance is to have the bow braced and measure and mark a spot on the string equal distances from each tip. Lets say 16in from each tip. Then from your 16in mark on your string measure perpendicularly to the belly and record that number. Repeat for the other side. Lets say at 16in from each tip that the right limb is 6.0in and on the left limb is 6.5in. That shows that the left limb is bending more than the right. So to remedy this you remove full length scrapes slowly and flex the bow (because you are tillering the bow, i call it balancing). This is where you normally hear the word "positive tiller" 1/4in or less is good for positive tiller. This will make a difference to someone that shoots with 3 fingers under or split. It also helps to have a little positive tiller because of bow hand position. The bottom limb is the one you want to be positive. So lets say you work your bow into these measurements. 6.25in on left limb and still the 6.0in on the right limb. The left limb will be stiffer and either need to be the bottom limb or more work needs to be done if that limb has to be the top limb. I start doing this at about 20 inches or so. and try to keep the bottom limb no more than 1/8th inch stiffer. By balancing your bow you are keeping the stresses even throughout and keeping the limb timing balanced as well. Thus making for a smoother more stable draw and decreasing the hand shock/kick you feel when you shoot the bow. Now all of this being said this needs to be done while your bow is bending evenly with a good tiller on the limbs. Because stiff or week spots need fixing, they will change your balance measuring. I hope this makes since.
Patrick
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Patrick -
Thanks for the reply - you are correct the right limb (which will be the top limb) is slightly weaker than the left limb (lower). Everything you said makes perfect sense - except one sentence..."The bottom limb is the one you want to be positive." From what I have learned, when the top limb is bending more (say 6.25") compared to the bottom limb (say 6.0") the bow is in positive tiller - the top limb is bending .25" more making it the positive limb. Do I have this wrong?
I also placed the hook of my tillering tree on the string just below where the arrow will be nocked. I tillered so that the rope pulled down a straight line I have marked on the board behind the rope.
Mitch
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gutshot,
I am not certain regarding osage....but ironwood and some elms will get that "mineral" stain. It does not bother either of those (in my experience). If the dark wood is the same consistency as the surrounding I got to believe it's good.
rich
PS: maybe one of the "osage" guys can correct me if I'm all wet.
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Gutshot, 90% of my bows have been osage and I've not yet had any detrimental effects from dark streaks. They add character IMO. Dark red has been good to me, dark brown hasn't caused any conflicts but have had some that cracked while heat straightening in those areas. I generally saturate them with thin ca sg and experienced no problems.
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half eye,
I like that idea! I've only made bendies and I always make that same mistake of taking off to much at the handle. Maybe I can get it right this time.
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Gutshot, 90% of my bows have been osage and I've not yet had any detrimental effects from dark streaks. They add character IMO. Dark red has been good to me, dark brown hasn't caused any conflicts but have had some that cracked while heat straightening in those areas. I generally saturate them with thin ca sg and experienced no problems.
That's good news now for the bad. 3" out of the fade just found a bad spot in the wood and it tore out before I knew it was even there. It's 3/8" deep the pic is from the belly side. Thought about mixing up smooth on with a lot of sage dust and fill it in. Any ideas all is welcome. I did talk to Osage outlaw about it and I'm going to let him take a look at it at moontree. So plan B will now be my bow and will start another plan b soon
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Damned Gutshot....that darned Osage aint give ya nothin but trouble sir.....I sure hope ya can save it, and I am pretty sure that Osage Outlaw is the guy to ask 8)
Mr. Andersson.....I was never "book" taught about making bows so please take this with a grain of salt sir. After each scrape session, when I draw the bow I "feel" what it's doing.....quite literally. You have to look of course to make sure you are not way out of whack mind you, but as to the power, smoothness and amount of bend I go by feel. When you have the bow along a little try this....shut your eyes and slowly draw it....and just feel what is happening and after a bit you you can call an uneven bend without looking.....but please dont tiller that baby with your eyes closed >:D >:D
rich
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Mr. Andersson, I did forget to mention one little tip you may find useful. When using your files or scraper etc on those fades allways go "up-hill" (from the belly to the fade) not the other way around....here is why. No matter how careful you are if you go "downhill" your tool will leave a very small "divot" in the belly and if you go into the fade you will leave that "divot" in the grip fade where it will not cause any possible hinge issues.
rich
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Gutshot, how wide and deep is it at that point? IMPO I think it can be solidified before it presents a problem.
Doesn't look like you'll lose 1/4". Have you got room to spare?
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Gutshot - I think that Fred may be right!
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Gutshot. I maybe completely wrong but if you are going to round off the belly wouldn't that go away? I haven't made very many bows so I'm definitely no expert.
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That's a tough break gut....I'm sure you'll work thru it somehow. It will still certainly make a bow even if it's not the one you were hoping for.
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Man, that's a bummer Gut. Hope you can figure out a way to salvage her. Keep us posted.
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Patrick -
Thanks for the reply - you are correct the right limb (which will be the top limb) is slightly weaker than the left limb (lower). Everything you said makes perfect sense - except one sentence..."The bottom limb is the one you want to be positive." From what I have learned, when the top limb is bending more (say 6.25") compared to the bottom limb (say 6.0") the bow is in positive tiller - the top limb is bending .25" more making it the positive limb. Do I have this wrong?
I also placed the hook of my tillering tree on the string just below where the arrow will be nocked. I tillered so that the rope pulled down a straight line I have marked on the board behind the rope.
Mitch
Yes sir, you have that right. It looks like I got jumbled up in my own explanation. Sorry about that.
Having a positive tiller isn't always what the bow might want. Part of the reason a lot of guys tiller the last few inches by hand. I've made several with the positive tiller difference being 1/8 inch or less. A few that wanted to be dead even and one for some reason that wanted to be about 5/15 inch. I find that if they are dead even to 1/8 inch positive and everything else is kosher then they are accurate and silent.
Patrick
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Hey Rich - I really like the looks of that osage you are working on. Do you mind a couple of questions?
I was just wondering why you decided to flip the tips. It appears to be fairly long and the string angle does not seem to be excessive. Is there an "advantage" to flipping those last 4 inches? I made a white wood recurve a while back just to see if I could do it, but really don't know if it turned out much better than if I would have left the limbs straight. I am thinking of maybe trying to flip the tips on my next selfbow - I am thinking either some HHB or osage. Enlighten me oh wise one. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
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Thanks Patrick - I appreciate the help! I shot my bow about 20 times tonight short drawing it a bit just to get a feel for it as I finish tillering out the last few inches. It feels pretty balanced during the shot. The limbs might be settling in a bit (if there is such a thing) as the static brace is now with an 1/8" with the top limb bending slightly more.
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The limb is 1 3/4" wide 3/8 thick.
It's parallel for the first 16" out of the fade then tapers to 1/2 at knock.
Rounding the belly want work the tear out is 3 1/2" long 3/8 at the deepest point
I can narrow my limb to 1 1/4" wide and that would take care of it but I would have to take it all off that one side.
Then I might not make my draw and weight. Which then again I can make it and see what it turns out. I could always flip the tips to get a little poundage. But once again not make my draw.
Or I can just hope for the best with the BL. The raw hide turned out great and it's been tillered to long string and it's now setting at 30lb at 10" draw.
I'm just glad we have till August 1st 😜
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Thanks Patrick - I appreciate the help! I shot my bow about 20 times tonight short drawing it a bit just to get a feel for it as I finish tillering out the last few inches. It feels pretty balanced during the shot. The limbs might be settling in a bit (if there is such a thing) as the static brace is now with an 1/8" with the top limb bending slightly more.
Your very welcome! Sounds like you got a handle on it. Can't wait to see your full draw!
Patrick
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The limb is 1 3/4" wide 3/8 thick.
It's parallel for the first 16" out of the fade then tapers to 1/2 at knock.
Rounding the belly want work the tear out is 3 1/2" long 3/8 at the deepest point
I can narrow my limb to 1 1/4" wide and that would take care of it but I would have to take it all off that one side.
Then I might not make my draw and weight. Which then again I can make it and see what it turns out. I could always flip the tips to get a little poundage. But once again not make my draw.
Or I can just hope for the best with the BL. The raw hide turned out great and it's been tillered to long string and it's now setting at 30lb at 10" draw.
I'm just glad we have till August 1st 😜
How far are tough drawing it on the tiller tree? What are your pounds and draw length you are going for?
Patrick
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Hey Mitch,
I agree on flipped tip performance. Most all of my personal bows are either straight tipped or have the long sweeping recurves that work. The recurved ones are that way because the NA Model I'm after was so made. Not because there was any leap in performance.
I'm going to skin this bow and either make the tips look like "rattles" (depending on the skin) or I want the look of some of the west coast types with rawhide wrapped grip and tips. Also this bow is longer than my usual (basically overbuilt) for a couple of reasons.....the bow has a very comfortable and smooth draw curve even if overdrawn a couple inches. That means if the recipient wants to shoot 3-D all day it will be a pleasant experience. The second reason is that since the bow is 59" ntn flipping up the ears will allow for some shots in a smaller length arc....if needed for hunting.
Gutshot,
You said if you narrow your bow it would have to all come off one side. With some careful layout you could do that with a single sided scalloped bow.....there are several different types of those.....just a thought sir.
rich
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Well, I've made some progress on the plan B bow. I've cut out the pieces that will be used for the bow. Here's a picture of the osage being glued together. It's a 4 inch Z splice that I'm gluing together with Smooth On. As a side note, a little does go a long way!
(http://i.imgur.com/dKAVfyk.jpg)
I will hopefully be prepping some more wood for the bow today.
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ttt
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Rich,
I carved rattle shaped nock overlays out of antler before. If you want a set let me know and I'll whip them up for ya.
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Much obliged Kid, I'll let you know as soon as I get skins rounded up sir. Thank you for the offer.
rich
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Thanks Rich - looking forward to seeing the skins on it. I like the looks of the flipped tips, I just didn't know if they made much difference in performance of the bow or not. I have not done enough work to know for myself.
TY - that osage looks clean! What is the plan?
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Finally got caught up with all the trade postings...everybody is still getting it done! The second hickory I have going is giving me alignment issues...I'm blaming drew for that :P
I had it steamed right where I wanted it so I rawhide backed it and now it's out of alignment again. I'm going to try just moving the tips a little since I believe it's too far out for a nock alignment.
The first hickory I strated is coming along nicely. Got some nice natural kinks to work with. But it's a little long for my guy...I may end up puking it down...will see.
Pictures to come sometime soon. Keep up the excellent work gentlemen ( I use that term loosely in regards to some of you ;D)
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Sort of roughed out the riser for my 3-part TD, any comments would be very welcome. One of the chaps in church is turning some brass Alan bolt receivers for me to epoxy into the riser, so very excited to see how they will look - much nicer solution than through-bolting
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/02/image9.jpeg)
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/02/image11.jpeg)
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/02/image10.jpeg)
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I'd like to see your limb assembled to comment...interested in trying one myself
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Hoping to get the parts on Sunday so will be able to properly assemble the bow at that time. Will post again middle of next week :D
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Stuckinthemud, i am concerned about the integrity of your riser. I dont know if the ears that the limbs attatch to are beefy enough to take the load. Wear safety glasses and a cup when you pull it back.
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Duly noted; hoping that cherrywood will have enough density to cope , it's about 1.5inch square at the waist and fans out to 2x0.5 inch at the ends. Will definitely take things slowly when applying strain the first few times. That's kinda the reason behind the rough level of 'finish' , no point in neatly varnishing something that might end up in the log-burner ;)
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Rough levels of finish are where splinters and explosions start
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stuckinthemud, that design is very dangerous and will not work. You cant build a 3 pc riser much shorter than 13". The depth where the inserts get buried should be no less than 2". Yours will break off at about 25# draw. Your limbs have to have fades either glued on or rasped in. You don't have any. The limb beds should be no less than 3" long and need deflex to ease strain, you have none. That is not good all around and something you shouldn't trade. IMO.
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Stuck,
I'm kinda thinkin that design might not hold up as well. Adding a piece to the back of the riser that covers the first couple inches of the limbs might be enough to keep it together, kinda like a removable power lam. I'd probably make it from a leg bone cut down the middle and flat sanded or two or three lamentations of the strongest wood you can find. It would be stronger if it were glued up permanently, but heavy wrapping or a series of small bolts may work. Having the two limbs meet in the middle of the riser with a matched angle cut would also add to the overall strength. The lam would then go over the joint.
I'm not trying to do your build for you. That's just what my instinct says needs to happen prior to attempting to draw that one. There is also the option of a complete re-design of the riser. You could try that design just to see what happens first, but I'd hate to see you damage the limbs and have to restart the whole project from scratch if something goes wrong.
I built a riser for a takedown about a year ago and never got around to making the limbs. I'm waiting until I come across some osage boards. Give me a chance to dig it out and take a few pics. It might help you out if you decide to rebuild the riser.
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Thanks guys, this is not my trade bow, it's the test mule for me to learn enough to do the trade properly, so I may as well give it a go.
Why do limbs have to have fades? Mine do fade in that the hollow limb fades to straight across, is that a fade? I can see this riser is a bit weedy but why the do risers need to be at least 13 inch long? The limbs are not being buried and the limb beds are just over 3" long....
This is a big learn for me so any and all advice very welcome
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I tend to agree with the issues raised, stuck. I also think epoxied in brass pins could be a problem if you re eliminating heads on one side by doing that and depending on adhesion rather than mechanical backup for this type of fastening. Sorry just an opinion, since you asked for them -- not intended as a discouragement to an experiment if precautions are taken.
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Well first off the weakest part of the riser is where you are putting the bolt, all the forces will meet there and not inly is it the thinesst part but there just ain't enough meat on the bone where the bolt goes. A longer riser gets the limb out of the riser where the sight window goes i have built quite a few all wood 3 pc bows and the shorter risers just don't work good
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3" beds + 4" handle gets you to 10". Add about 1" between the limb beds and the grip and your at 12", plus.
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This is the riser I carved out of a glued up block. It's a modern design, but you could devolve it into something more primitive.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2829_zpsqo0r639m.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2827_zpswgivxlys.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2826_zpssdhlo9v5.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2825_zps3j2knrfp.jpg)
If you skip the deep shelf, the riser can be made narrower front to back.
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Good example.
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stuck google Gaurd Inserts. These would be awesome for a take down. They are self tapping inserts but if I was to use them after I got them threaded into the riser I wound take them back out and put epoxy on the treads and make a brass plate for the back side of the limb so the bolt heads wouldn't pull into the wood. I would use two per limb. My 2cents worth. I actually have 4 of these with Brass flat head bolts I was thinking of using one of these days
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Binghams sells a complete 3 pc hardware set for $16. Threaded inserts, cap screws, bezels, plastic washers and alignment pins.
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(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/100_2795.jpg) (http://s623.photobucket.com/user/bubncheryl/media/100_2795.jpg.html)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/100_2800.jpg) (http://s623.photobucket.com/user/bubncheryl/media/100_2800.jpg.html)
Nice and simple, the binghams iit it good on this i used tee nuts buried between tge walnut and hickory
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Hey mr. Stuck.....here's a different way to do it but maybe just a few hundred years earlier 8) 8)
This is the "Khrotan Bow" and some others that were made the same way (so it aint a one off. Some food for thought if it fits into your plans at all.....if not ya aint out anything,eh?
Bunch of pictures
rich
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next batch
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last couple
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That's the devolved, angle cut, bone support style I was thinking of exactly. Rich seems to always have the old school example.
That being said Rich, you don't have any info on the Eire Indian weapons and tools? The were absorbed into the other Iroquois nations after the Beaver Wars. Not a lot of info is available about their tribe specific artifacts from before they disappeared. If I can't find anything unique I'll go with Seneca or a more generic Iroquois design. You can email me whatever you may have already dug up. No need to do any in depth research on my account.
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Plan b fwd handle Osage
I narrowed the limbs down to 1 1/4" this got rid of 95% of the tear out
Still feel like I got plenty of weight. Got the twist out of 1 limb tonight also got good string alignment.
Got the natural tip overlays worked in and string groves worked in tonight also.
This weekend I'm gonna build a special caul for this crazy bow to heat treat some reflex in to the limbs.
Checked on the progress of the fuming on the BL after work. Flipped the bow 180 added a new can full of ammonia. It's got a really nice color so tomorrow night it will come out and rest for 4 days.
Anyways I will leave you all alone with some pics of the Osage.
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A lot of awesome bows bending. I'm hoping that my work schedule should open up soon. Been working lots of 12-16 hour days this month so I havnt got much accomplished yet. But this next month my schedule opens up more since I had my boss knock my hours back. Atleast it's given the sinew time to cure on the ERC, though it started to rip some cracks open on they belly of one limb making it reflex more than the other.
Kyle
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wow you guys are moving so fast i got 3 weeks at home coming up but the next two weeks of school is just a single class i will have black smithing class for the next two weeks then three weeks at home to build a bow
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I'm in love with the gut!
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The osage is looking good Gutshot - I like the way the tips are turning out!
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The osage is looking good Gutshot - I like the way the tips are turning out!
I would second that. Those tips look great Gut
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I'm in love with the gut!
Sorry ajooter Im married lol
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Gut, love those tips. OK, got my hack to 47# @ 25". But... Its gonna be a bow, but i 'm not gonna send it out. Had an appifanity , read back a couple pages and a couple guys talkin about simplicity. I've been tryin to build above my ability. So gonna step back and start over. My plan C is gonna be a straight forward selfbow. Hopefully it turns out. Hackberry, 66". 2" at thee fades taperin to 1/2" tips. My progress will slow down because i have to go back to basics re-asses what i'm doin and not force somethin that might or might not work out.
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There's tons of time left. Get a simple well built bow you'd be happy to send out, then experiment. That way your "back up" is done. An unfamiliar build doesn't need the added pressure of a deadline. I have a couple off the wall ideas semi-underway for when the rock elm has officially reached bow status.
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Gut, love those tips. OK, got my hack to 47# @ 25". But... Its gonna be a bow, but i 'm not gonna send it out. Had an appifanity , read back a couple pages and a couple guys talkin about simplicity. I've been tryin to build above my ability. So gonna step back and start over. My plan C is gonna be a straight forward selfbow. Hopefully it turns out. Hackberry, 66". 2" at thee fades taperin to 1/2" tips. My progress will slow down because i have to go back to basics re-asses what i'm doin and not force somethin that might or might not work out.
Nothing wrong with that. Simple is usually the best in my book. Heck those engines back in the day made simple bows and they killed buffalo.
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A straight forward selfbow is actually my favorite bow out there. Its a bow i've nevered mastered. Made a few than started to try and up my game. Got lucky a few times but never felt real comfortable. So i'm just gonna start at the root and grow feom there.
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Stix, the main thing is you yourself are happy with what you made. You're the one that counts. That will happen for sure because you keep at it.
Gutshot really enjoying your build!
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Dont worry my victim will get a well built bow. Functional an astetic. Just gonna make sure all steps are covered and it's the best I can do.
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Man everyone is doing good!
Gut, I'm glad that you got that tear out all fixed up. Looks like you are going to have a great bow out of that Osage! Loving those tips! I've always wanted to try that and never have.
Looks like there is a good group of people here that is willing to help and support each other. But I also looks like the participants have thinned down some.
Patrick
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Hey mr. Stuck.....here's a different way to do it but maybe just a few hundred years earlier 8) 8)
This is the "Khrotan Bow" and some others that were made the same way (so it aint a one off. Some food for thought if it fits into your plans at all.....if not ya aint out anything,eh?
Bunch of pictures
rich
Hi Rich,
sorry to be a bit dense, the Khrotan Bow- is it a long splice with a cover plate, or just a long spliced joint?
Andrew
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Never mind !
found this http://www.atarn.org/chinese/khotan_bow.htm
fascinating!
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Feel like I've been falling behind. Spent the last 2 days working on a vehicle but did manage to get my dogwood billets glued up today. Think I may have tomorrow freed up to work on bows tho.(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160226_155018449.jpg)
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Billets looks good turtle
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This is 48 hrs of fuming the black locus. When I get tiller to a few inches of goal then I'm going to fume it again for 1 week.
Before and after pics
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Worked on the red bud some more. Smoothed off the limbs, rounded corners, and did a little tillering.
I decided I needed to do a little handle work, so I filled the checks in the handle with CA glue, let that cure, and then flattened of the back of the handle. It was about 1 1/4 inch thick and pretty rough, smoothed it off to about 1 1/8 while getting it flat.
I then took another piece of redbud, worked it with drawknife, hand planes, and sandpaper till it was flat. Then glued this onto the back of the handle to give a little more meat. I am at 2" thick now, so plenty of thickness now to work with.
Heading out of town to my brother's house this weekend to celebrate a late birthday with my niece. Hope to get back to the bow Sunday.
Michael
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Ok, call me ignut but what does fuming do?
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The only fuming I've done is after I ruin a perfectly good piece of wood :-\
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Dang fellas, all of you are some bow building fools
Turtle: is there anything you CAN'T make a bow out of.....thats looking real good right there
Gutshot: Man I'm going to have to try that fuming thing, real pretty color
Loope, looks like you have that under control sir.
A few more days of bein down and I'll get back after it as well....Feel like I'm gettin behind. Is it just me or is everyone building several bows? >:D >:D >:D
rich
Even after a cabbage dinner?
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Ok, call me ignut but what does fuming do?
Fuming is putting the bow in a sealed container with ammonia and letting it "fume", it darkens the wood and is really cool looking on some grains.
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I had the day off of work so I got some time in my shop. You would think I would start tillering the birch bow I have floor tillerred but I didn't. Instead I chased a ring on a belly split of black locust. I also got the shaping done and brought the thickness down to a little over 1/2 inch. I cut the stave down to 58 inches to avoid a knot and also another area of concern. It looks like an area where the tree grew around a limb. Here is a picture of that area.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/C71E96E4-3355-49A8-BEE4-6BF7DDBD2DAF_zpsrwp3dwph.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/C71E96E4-3355-49A8-BEE4-6BF7DDBD2DAF_zpsrwp3dwph.jpg.html)
Here is the stave after working on it today. It is going to be a bendy handle bow.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/0DF7E7A0-D4D5-4581-8717-02FE576FECAF_zpsyliif0ut.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/0DF7E7A0-D4D5-4581-8717-02FE576FECAF_zpsyliif0ut.jpg.html)
I also took a walk in the woods and harvested a dozen red osier shoots and a dozen birch shoots. It was a pretty good day
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I fumed thin ringed osage matched billets that I'm planning on sinew backing. With my poor eyesight I doubt I can get a pristine back on it. 5 days in the fuming tube made it look like it had been aging in the sun for 5 years. I'm going to try it with ERC that I have access to just to see what results I get.
I've never used white cedar but would like to try it with that and hickory. I'm thinking the hickory would look like aged fence panels but not sure.
Swampman, I'm working on an osage that has those cracks in the riser section. I think they are wind checks. SG'd and clamped them and will know more as I progress. Hopefully not fire wood.
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Turtle, looking good man. I haven't worked dogwood for a bow, but have seen some that turned out super. Good luck with that one.
Gutshot, that fuming should make an outstanding finish on your bow. Can't wait to see that completed.
DuBois, LOL, yeah, I've done some of that kind of fuming too. BUT, a strong concentration of ammonia in an enclosed area will react with the tanic acids in wood and turn them some beautiful colors......depends on the specie though. Check out some of the fuming that Simon has done on this site......beautiful stuff.
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I cut some buckthorn branches the other day, big enough for bows, and a branch of bush honeysuckle, sealed the ends and put them in the shed.
Tillered a bit on the plan B bow, even though I had a finish on it started, after looking at a photo on the tiller tree. Turned out the photo had a lot of distortion on the right side (vertical siding on the right side of the photo was angled inwards, though in real life it is plumb) so possibly not entirely necessary, but I do think it improved a little. lost 2 pounds of draw weight but had been over perfect weight by that much anyway, so I'm back to re-finishing it.
Started roughing out a black birch pyramid board bow just for the heck of it, not intended for the trade, but just to have a comparison with my other black birch bows, and because I've never done a pyramid before.
Swampman, Turtle -- looking great!
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last night i got the rawhide ajooter sent glued down to my yew branch ;D tomorrow morning i'm going to unwrap it and see how well i did :o i'll have pics up good or bad, but first i have a question. if i put tip overlays on it should i put them right on top of the rawhide or should i rasp it back to bare wood where the overlay will be ???
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DH - I would glue directly to the wood...but I have never tried going over top of RH.
Shot the hackberry the last couple of nights to get a feel for it. It seems to be shooting fine - not taking any set and it zips an arrow pretty quick. I still have a little extra weight so may tweak tillering as I shoot it in.
Here are the last 3 arrows shot this evening.
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Dylan....flat surfaces glue the best so just flatten the area down you want to glue the overlay to and stick her tight. I like to use the overlay material as a sanding block so both surfaces mate as perfectly as possible.
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Getting the curves in tonight. It's probably too much bend but we'll see. Next it to deflex the handle and then sinew!
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TimothyR that bend looks great.
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DH - I would glue directly to the wood...but I have never tried going over top of RH.
Shot the hackberry the last couple of nights to get a feel for it. It seems to be shooting fine - not taking any set and it zips an arrow pretty quick. I still have a little extra weight so may tweak tillering as I shoot it in.
Here are the last 3 arrows shot this evening.
Looks good Mitch! Deer are in trouble when your behind the bow!!
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Dylan....flat surfaces glue the best so just flatten the area down you want to glue the overlay to and stick her tight. I like to use the overlay material as a sanding block so both surfaces mate as perfectly as possible.
That is brilliant! Light bulb!! ;D
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Tim R, that's a lot of bend, but it looks darn good!
I just glued some walnut tip overlays on the ironwood bow I posted a while back. I originally had pin knocks, just changed my mind. I'm also thinking about putting some skins on it. I have a copper head skin that would look sweet on that stick.
Keep up the good work everybody. This trade seems to be going very well.
Tattoo Dave
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Got the tips flipped! Now to sinew it. I think it will all work out? :)
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here is my latest update....plan be bow at brace and art work(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/e4ffd36f-7f93-4bd2-b03f-89e10af4572a_zpsdjaelmoq.jpg)
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one more(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/61b396f4-d067-4ddf-8c71-5f6aa18e8a28_zpssysftwwn.jpg)
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Looks good hammer!
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Got the tips flipped! Now to sinew it. I think it will all wcome to out? :)
I'm waiting on my black walnut to dry wished I'd have deflexed the handle area. It's too late now but the entire bow pulled so much reflex that I think it will be hard to string and handle with the tips that far behind the handle.
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Nice looking bow Hammer.
Fred, if you can harness that energy in that bow it will be a fast shooter. Good luck.
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Hammer .... artwork is nice!
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Those curves look good to me TR. A little deflex out of the handle is a good idea.
Looking good HT.
Gutshot - sometimes the arrows fly good and sometimes they don't! :laugh:
Fred - that sure did take a lot of reflex. Good luck taming it.
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Hammer time bow looks awesome like the artwork
Fred I would have to have a stringer to string that bow. Nice Reflex
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Fred,
If it's reflex is too much and your out of options you might be able to cut it and v-splice deflex that way, if there's no other options left.
Everyone seems to be on top of things, with no major dilemmas. That's certainly nice to return to.
I had a 3D fun shoot today. I don't have much progress to report having spent my recent free time making the arrows the wife and I shot today and re- wrapping a handle on one of the go to shooters. It was her first organized shoot. She wasn't as consistent as she is in the yard, but ended up the talk of the entire event by drilling a perfect bulls eye on the course's notoriously hard shot. It is a 40 yard downhill(20' drop down in the first 15' forward) on a tiny coyote with a kill zone about soft ball sized. This shot was made with one of my first successful bows, a 35# @ 28" ash board bow, with a lightweight ERC arrow I made from a 2 x 4. Up until that point, I was afraid she might not have been having fun. I guess it just takes one good shot to make you forget all the bad ones that came first. That sounds darn near sage-like wisdom right there
Met some new faces that were smart and stayed home during last years -20 temperatures. As if meeting like minded locals wasn't good enough, I made a connection for osage and yew locally. One of the shooter turned out to be a hero/influence of mine, a local wildlife artist named Jack Paluh. I even got invited to his studio to paint with him sometime. My parents have numerous prints of his hanging on their walls. My father was a little bummed that he declined my invite, but may attend next year. ;D
Today was a pretty sweet day indeed.
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Nice art Hammer!
Tim, that is looking really good to me.
Fred, I think rich had a similar issue on a sinew bow he worked on. that could be a real zinger!
I've had that happen in the last trade I was in 2 years ago on a buckthorn/sinew and somehow went from barely stringable to lightweight. I think I was too long on the long string and once I got it braced it was under weight. That's why I put in the deflex this time in the handle of the one I got in the works now.
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DK - sounds like you had a great day. And I agree - one great shot can make up for some not so good ones.
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I spent some time reducing an osage stave. I decided to go around some of the knots and make it more snakey. It did mean that the stave narrowed considerably, but since I was having trouble finding good (splinter free) wood around the fade, I only really had about 1.25" to work with out the handle anyway. I am sure it will be enough. It is just starting to flex a little. There is one knot left--with a big void on the belly and some on the back that I need to work down still. I don't know if it will go all the way through yet, or if I should fill the belly hole, or what the best move will be. I have left plenty of meat around it, so I think it will be okay
The length is now 66". Still have to lay out the yew. . .
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Jeff, looks like you'll have plenty of room to work with. I've gotten 45# bows of osage with less than 1".
I'm thinking about wrapping the bw with a tight bandage and throwing it in the creek for a couple days tied to a cinder block. If nothing else it should loosen the sinew with no damage, release the hide glue, and allow me to change direction. :laugh:
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That is a nice looking piece of Osage Jeff. Looks like a good amount of challenge with some nice curves.
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Wow, that's the first time this thread made it to page 2...problem solved ;) that's a sweet looking piece of Osage, looking forward to seeing it bend.
Tattoo Dave
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Me and te birthday girl Lauren got our 1 off caul built today for the Osage. Heated the stomach and put some reflex into that bad boy. We will see what we got tomorrow.
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That stave looks good Jeff. The knot looks like it will be fine - may end up filling it on the belly side, but I see no problem.
I like the looks of the osage on the caul Gutshot.
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Ok guys, here is my update.
Tillered mine to 15 and I think I like it, still gonna add some more bend in the handle though. I don't know if my scraper technique is wrong but I pretty much just do one limb and then I have to "sharpen" my scraper again, it makes this go soooo slooow.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMGP2049.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMGP2049.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMGP2042.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMGP2042.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMGP2044.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMGP2044.jpg.html)
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JA, is that the lilac? I can't keep up but if it is it is coming along nicely.
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Me and te birthday girl Lauren got our 1 off caul built today for the Osage. Heated the stomach and put some reflex into that bad boy. We will see what we got tomorrow.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like deflex to me. I hope you didn't heat the back?
Patrick
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Looks like deflex to me so id guess the back was heated. So long as its not scorched and is rehydrated it should be ok. Fox tje deflex by reflexing the tips. Makes a nice bow when done that way.
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I think it's a backwards handle bow.
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You are correct Mr. Turtle
rich
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Ok guys, here is my update.
Tillered mine to 15 and I think I like it, still gonna add some more bend in the handle though. I don't know if my scraper technique is wrong but I pretty much just do one limb and then I have to "sharpen" my scraper again, it makes this go soooo slooow.
I learned a long time ago that scrapers are OK but an ordinary blade held vertically works just as well and is sharpened 'normally' so none of that 'squaring off the top and rolling over the burr' hassle you get sharpening a scraper. Chisels work well, but I prefer a knife blade with a gentle curve in the cutting edge. Be careful though, the blade can catch the wood and skid sideways, scoring a deep scratch if you apply too much pressure :D
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BL tiller ? I've got the right limb looking good but the left I'm struggling with. It has 2 knots from the tip 1/3 and 2/3 up is were there located and I just can't get it to bend in that area. Just wanting a little advice. Right know it's braced at 4" and is 27lb at 16"
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Mr. Gutshot,
Actually I think your left limb looks pretty darned good. I think the right has a stiff spot that makes it LOOK like it's bending better than it actually is........I marked your picture......think you should scrape a little at a time in this area and you should see the right limb "flatten out" it's curve to be more like the left. After that you should be able to work them back the same....
Hope that was more clear than mud ::) Basically try to get them both about the same then tiller from there.....just do it slow enough to check all the changes that will happen, meaning as the right flattens out some the left will change at the same time so go slow.
rich
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On my screen it's hard to see a pic that small, and I don't feel qualified to comment on other people's tillers here -- I struggle enough with my own! But I would like to help at least by making that photo larger -- and in doing so I noticed one other thing -- and that has caused me big problems in tillering my own bow recently, too.
The problem is that many digital cameras, phones, etc. distort the image quite a bit. And unfortunately, they can do that unevenly left to right across a photo.
Here is Gutshot's photo enlarged to 600 pixels wide. That's a help. But also notice that the building studs behind the tillering board are nearly plumb on the left edge of the photo, and strongly angled to the right on the right side of the photo. I bet that in real life, those studs don't fan out like that.
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/image1.jpg)
If this effect is a result of lens distortion instead of crazy studs, then the bow will appear to dip more on the right limb than it would otherwise.
Here's a modified photo that i put through a photo editing program and used the perspective tool to even up the studs and the top and bottom edgess of the tillering board. I'm not saying this is representative either, but it gives you an idea of what the difference in lens distortions can amount to with respect to limb bending:
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/RC/image2.jpg)
Not trying to throw a monkey wrench into anything here, but I trust my own photos of my bow's tillers a lot less than I did once I saw what it did to the shape of the vertical siding behind my tiller tree. Same effect -- and I checked the siding with a level to make sure it was plumb -- it was.
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I disagree rich....I think that left limb is starting to hinge just out of the fade and stays pretty stiff about 2/3 out. It is hard to tell with the picture on the smaller side. I think the right looks pretty good. Just my 2 cents.
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Ajooter, upon reflection you are probably correct. If ya start bringing the left down just keep your eye on those knots. You are right about the left fade hinge, now that the photo is enlarged.
rich
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Some other things that have messed me up when doing my own tillering via photo -- any twist in the limb is not nearly as apparent in a photo on a tillering tree than it is by eye. This is particularly true of low quality photos, poorly lit or unevenly lit, low pixel count, out of focus etc.
The eye tends to correct for twist giving a better idea of how the limb is bending. The photo can show false hinges, or the opposite.
I think photos can help lots of times but should be taken with a grain of salt if what you see with your own eyes on the tree contradicts what the photo seems to show. And I'm starting to think that for overall bends themselves (not hinges) , off the tree balance at the grip (as others have suggested) is more important than photographically symmetrical bends on a tiller.
I'd really like to know more about balance and handle shape, because that really is starting to show an effect when shooting (and final tillering) for me. I wish we saw more people's bow handles, and they talked about them.
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So my thinking was right on the left limb I did notice the starting of a hinge but I have stayed away from that area I've only focused on the outer 2/3 of the L limb but those dang knots just want let it bend. Like the right. Plan B thanks for the insight on the photo enhancement those wall studs are plum. Lol any ways when I get home tonight I will work that left limb a lot more to try to balance it out. I just needed some body to see what I was seeing and make sure I was right. Thanks guys
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most phone-type camera lenses are slightly fish-eye in design - very wide angle lenses for close up group shots - if yours has a zoom facility then standing well back and zooming in on the image over-rides the wide-angle effect. Also, I-pads have a square photo option that should get rid of the wide-angle effect
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stuck, I would normally agree -- and true back in the 35 mm film days, but now digital cameras do all kinds of firmware manipulation of images before they even make it to an output file. I noticed the distortion problem on mine AFTER I had zoomed -- ostensibly to bring it from its 24mm fisheye equivalent "normal" setting to what I hoped was a 50-90 mm equiv. -- thinking I was avoiding distortion.... and it's a pretty good camera. But no. I also have feeling that a vertical full draw shot is a better indicator than a horizontal tiller shot. I think the eyeball is starting to get preference for me over cameras -- on the tiller tree, at least.
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Plan B
I don't even need a camera to get distortion, jut looking first with my right eye, and then with the left is tricky enough for me.
Balance-- Are you asking about balance in the hand? or positive and negative tiller? What I call balance in the hand is having the bow hand grip placed such that the bow carries the way I like it to when hunting or roving. For me, having most of the weight carried by the middle finger with a slight weight carried by the little finger, is a hand placement that I can consistently repeat. when I firm up my grip and bring the bow up to begin drawing, the arrow is at the proper rest point without my having to look down at the bow to adjust my grip.
On the other hand, some discussions of positive and negative tiller can be problematic for me, because so often the given advice seems to be a specific recommendation, supposedly good for all bows.
willie
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You can skip cameras, mirrors and opinions if you do it this way. This isn't me, I found a picture on the web. When that gap in the center shrinks, you mark it and remove wood. Where that gap increases, you leave it alone. Very simple and very effective.
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Willie, what I meant was that with a plain, uncontoured grip like many true primitive bows have, how you grip it changes the vertical placement of the arrow when it hits the target, as if you changed the tiller proportion on the limbs. If I pinch near the top of a handle with tiller optimized for the middle of the grip, the arrow hits low. If I heel it, it may hit at center or even high.
On a shaped handle like I believe Pearl Drums mentioned earlier, which forces a certain grip, that might not happen as much. I don't know for sure, but I'm shooting the new bow with different holds and handle shapes. I've been trying that out with a temporary string grip on the plan B bow. With string, I can just unwind it and insert different shaped pieces of leather in the grip, and re-wind in a couple of minutes. I'm using leather because this is somewhat of a bendy handle.
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowB16.jpg)
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You can skip cameras, mirrors and opinions if you do it this way. This isn't me, I found a picture on the web. When that gap in the center shrinks, you mark it and remove wood. Where that gap increases, you leave it alone. Very simple and very effective.
How long is that price of wood PD I've seen some people using a gizmo but don't know the length of it
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PB
nice pic of the handle area, but I wouldn't mind seeing a few close-ups of your finish, if you have them. the dark stain, with just a hint of the grain showing, looks nice
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Length doesn't matter gut. I use any straight edge I can find. All the length does is make the gap look bigger or smaller. I use my scrapers.
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GS
I keep a few different lengths nearby. As you draw out the bow more, the gaps get bigger, and I find it is easier to see differences when the gaps are small.
willie
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Gizmos work great.....I don't even use the one I made with the pencil much anymore....just a straight edge. Only area that can be tough is the fades. You don't want to get too far into your drawlength with stiff fades...not a great place for set to start. On the other hand...much better then ending up with a hinge there.
I have been swamped at work lately...no time to work on my trade bows. Hopefully get back at it soon. You guys are really making progress.
I love the color of that bow B!
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PB
nice pic of the handle area, but I wouldn't mind seeing a few close-ups of your finish, if you have them. the dark stain, with just a hint of the grain showing, looks nice
Thanks willie, but It's not finished, some of that will get sanded off, and finshed --- but look pretty much the same. I'm just trying to get it to shoot the best I can now and the initial finish keeps it protected outside in this wet weather. The handle contour is what I'm trying to get right.
Thanks ajooter!
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I did absolutely nothing yesterday and I call that a vacation. It was my lazy day of which I take from time to time.
Removed some belly wood on these two this morning and have one floor tillered close enough to put it on the long string. The picture's deceiving because my anchor holding the grip area is not level but the limbs are bending fairly evenly. Will start removing wood by scraping until ready for the short string.
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Pretty looking beginning, Fred!
(ps. is that your sled?)
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Sled belongs to my youngest son Jeff. I was using it after the blizzard a couple weeks ago to haul some tools and supplies around the back of the building. I just haven't put it away yet.
That stave on the tree is a sister to my 2014 trade bow. The other stave has some whooptedoos and a little more character and if I can get it tillered properly will probably be my trade bow.
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Fred, my daughter has one just like it. I use it to haul sand to spread on the ice going up to the house. Wouldn't think of....ahem.....riding on it.
It doesn't steer very good either..... :laugh:
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looking good fred
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Everyones lookin great, nice work outta all ya. Havent got much done lately, but finally have 2 whole days off this week, yes in a row. Gonna concentrate on stik bendin and such. You guys r the best, keep it up🏹
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I had glued a block onto the handle before the weekend. Took the clamps off tonight and rough shaped it down somewhat, then put on a long string for the first time and looked at the tiller. Can someone check me here?
Here is what I am thinking/planning.... Obviously the right limb is stronger, so get the right limb bending before touching the left. It looks to me like the inner limb and outer limb is a little stiffer than mid-limb, so work on those first. After I get the limbs even, then go to a low brace. After that, then I would put on a caul to get both limbs reflexed evenly. What do you guys think, am I on the right track?
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I am amazed how many of us have the same luggage scale. At least we are calibrated the same 8)
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Haha i have two of those! Question is, does the tape measure still work on everyone else's?
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Loope -
Just my thoughts - yep the limb on the right is obviously stronger. I would not pull on the tree again until that limb is worked and similar in strength to the left. I would just floor tiller until they are bending similar then go back to the tree. You can floor tiller and get the limbs bending surprisingly similar. If you continue on the tree you may end up with an excessive amount of set. I can't see what you are pulling to on your scale, but any amount with those uneven limbs will lead to set.
The hinge that is showing up in the left limb may not look as obvious as it does in the pic now once the right limb is weakened some.
Mitch
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I spent the quiet hours last night after the kids went to bed scraping away at my knot. Looks like this will be my first bow with a hole in it. I hope it works--I think it will. for anyone who has not done this, it isn't as hard as I thought. I just went at the front with a scraper working in from the sides at the ring I wanted until it was gone. then I probed with a needle file at the soft spots until I could feel solid wood under the file again. I could probably clean it up a little more, but I think it is stable as is, and I like some of the discoloration.
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Loope, I'd put it on the caul before going any further. I wouldn't be putting the string to that bow without making sure those limbs are tillered more evenly.
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Jeffp51, the knot looks great man! Just remember to smooth out the edges of the knot just like the edges of your bow. Also it dosent hurt to leave that spot a little stiffer when you tiller it.
Patrick
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jeffp ..... that's a lovely knot!
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Hey fellas,
Sorry for my apparent lack of participation the last week and a half. Just now cvoming down from a fairly bad abscessed situation....anyway back to where I can think about something besides cryin in my beer >:D
I have finished the heavy Iroquoian bow for my victim so thought I would post some teaser pics without giving anything away. This is ironwood, and draws way north of 50# (I forget how much exactly >:D) This bow has elements of Onida, Iroquois, and Mohawk combined into what I hope is a pleasing Eastern Woodland hunting bow.....we will see.
Any and all comments welcomed.
rich
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more pics....sorry about the full draw pic....with this bow that IS full draw for the old guy even with grunting. 8)
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Aw man that's a nice bow Rich! I really like the native inspired bows. Is that raw hide string?
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Looks great Rich. Looks like you're back on track. Is that hickory?
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Looks great Rich. Looks like you're back on track. Is that hickory?
He said it was Ironwood I believe... - OneBow
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Fred, it's ironwood sir
rich
Typing same time as you onebow
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So much for my visual and anal retention :laugh:
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Fred I like the start of your 2 bows
Loope I'm with Fred. I think a caul would help out on tillering later on.
Jeffp51 nice pep sight.
Rich man how many bows have you put out in February alone. Is that handle grip braided fish line that you painted. Looks good
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Ok the BL is now at 22". the back ground on my tree is getting painted black this weekend to help with the pics and the lighting should be no more shadowing after that. Then bends are bad close by measuring and straight edging.
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Went out to glue some rawhide on one of my trade bows and I guess my glue is bad. It never set up. Luckily I have more rawhide. Will have to get some more tb. I bought some gorilla glue but not sure about it. We've been battling flu in our household so not much has been done. Wednesday I will be putting sinew on the cedar sapwood bow.
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Haha i have two of those! Question is, does the tape measure still work on everyone else's?
Wait. . .there's a tape measure??!
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Gut....Looks like there might be a hint of a flat spot a couple inches out from the left fade running 10" or so. Other then that it looks great. Got a pic of the unbraced profile?
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Man all you fellas got some picture perfect bends going on....
Gutshot, that overall bend is absolutely beautiful sir.....cant believe it's the same one ya posted before....you got some magic tillerin dust hid back someplace 8) 8) 8)
Jeff, looks like you have the knot just about perfect sir
Mr. Andersson, that string is artificial sinew.....dont have any decent raw-hide left after all the Penobscot bows.
rich
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Don't feel bad for being MIA for a few days Rich. I'm sure we're all just glad to have you here ;)
I have not been able to be in here near as much as I would like either for a variety of reasons.
I always feel like I'm out of the loop by the time I try to read up on these fellas bows in progress.
I am lovin your HHB there mister!
Y'all are leavin me in the dust and I kinda like it. Keep up the awesome work!
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Gut....Looks like there might be a hint of a flat spot a couple inches out from the left fade running 10" or so. Other then that it looks great. Got a pic of the unbraced profile?
No I don't but I measured the reflex in it last night she is still holding 11-2 " started out with 2 1-2. I'm hoping I have around 1" of reflex when I'm done.
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man Rich i really like an eastern woodland huntin bow (hint,hint). nice work sir. Gut , bend is lookin good.
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Great bow Rich!
Gutshot, very pretty curve!
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Well, we had a gentleman cancel out of the bow trade. He has some family matters that need attended to and didn't feel he would have the time required to fulfill his part.
I appreciate his effort in allowing us plenty of time to make the required changes. Arrangements are being made to compensate.
Most of us are now in the tillering stages with our bows and others are in the finish stages or have already completed their project.
I'll be taking a close look this week at those that I feel are behind and may need additional help to get them up to at least the tillering process.
Anyone having difficulty with their bows at this point are expected to begin posting and letting us know where they are at and what needs to be done on our part to help them with their project.
I'll also be sending emails or PM's to those who have not shown what I feel is enough participation or progress at this stage. You're the only ones that know who you are and what your up to. If you don't ask for help either by PM or post then we can't be of much help to you.
There is deadline and I intend to see that it is met. There are just a few that haven't shown anything reasonable up to this point and all I ask is that if you won't or can't meet your obligation, please do us all a favor and get out now. >>>-----> Fred
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Well said Fred. Things seem to be going well as far as I can tell. I'm very happy to be a part of this trade. I'm out of state on work, but will get back to working on plan b next week. I also will be putting the lipstick on plan a, just making it pretty at this point. ;)
Tattoo Dave
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Fred,
Please advise if there is a need for an "extra" sir.......everyone who is participating seems to be smokin as said......so maybe anybody who wants out like you said will be courteous enough to advise now as requested.
rich
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I might have an extra--- Plans B and A so far....
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I might have an extra--- Plans B and A so far....
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/archery/TradeBowBA.jpg)
Dang are those twins. That's a sure nice finish PlanB what is it if you don't care to share?
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I don't believe we need an extra. I will let you know if that does occur though.
Take for instance I'm building for Rich and I have an accident and can't fulfill my obligation. That leaves me out. So whomever is building for me would now be obligated to build for Rich since I'm no longer in the trade. Most of the guys in the trade are between 45-65# with a 26-29" draw so if the bow you are working on was 50-60# it would still be in the ballpark the biggest exception would occur if you cut a shelf for RH and your new guys is a southpaw. Now watch Murphy's Law come into effect :laugh:
With this group we can work around the minor inconveniences and still have a very exciting and successful trade.
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Ajooter just got home from work and took a pick of the unbraced BL you requested and where you mentioned it looked a little flat there is 2 knots there I've been fighting but it is bending there alittle just don't want it to get weak in That spot.
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I don't believe we need an extra. I will let you know if that does occur though.
Take for instance I'm building for Rich and I have an accident and can't fulfill my obligation. That leaves me out. So whomever is building for me would now be obligated to build for Rich since I'm no longer in the trade. Most of the guys in the trade are between 45-65# with a 26-29" draw so if the bow you are working on was 50-60# it would still be in the ballpark the biggest exception would occur if you cut a shelf for RH and your new guys is a southpaw. Now watch Murphy's Law come into effect :laugh
I'm a southpaw Fred. Probably the only one in the trade besides Rich he shoots how ever he feels like that day. LOL
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Dang are those twins. That's a sure nice finish PlanB what is it if you don't care to share?
Nope, GS, they are a little different -- plan B on the left is 2" wide and about 5 lbs heavier than Plan A which is 1-5/8" wide. Plan B has a lot more shape in both directions, and Plan A has shorter fades. Both about 59" ttt and both bend some through the handle. Both are black birch, which is about as white a sapwood as you could have. So it seemed like making them near black would suit the name of the wood better! Plus I like a dark stain after I did my elm character bow last summer that way. I used some very old half dried up in the can oil stains mixed up together, and I used tung oil.
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A left handed self bow only differs from a right handed one if your cutting a shelf correct? If your string alignment is centered, you should be able to shoot either side of symmetric handle, I would think.
Those black birches look sweet with the high shine ebony finish. A black rat snake skin would be a nice compliment to a finish like those.
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Fred, thanks for doing such a great job managing this trade. Maybe we will have a few guys fall by the wayside but this is my very best experience with a trade......super job.
Rich, sorry to hear you've been feeling poorly. Glad you're better and back in the groove. That bow looks terrific........I like it a LOT.
PlanB, that finish looks really nice. Hope you will share how you did that and show us a few close up shots.
Gutshot, that BL bow is looking better every time you post. Keep it going s l o w and easy.
I've been tillering my bow and am pleased with the progress. I'm out to about 16". I'll post a pic soon. I got sidetracked with a woodworking project for our clubhouse and will be back on bows soon.
Cheers all!
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nice job guys two more weeks till I'm home and can make some major progress
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Gut....It's coming along nice....knots are tricky sometimes...your going about it the right way...sometime you can side tiller areas like that...take a little off the side of the bow limb instead of the belly. Just go slow as you already know :D
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Both those bows look great btw B!
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(http://i.imgur.com/tD32myR.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/toxmx1g.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/QyqxxVE.jpg)
Not really progress but I got the bow rawhide backed...but I didn't realize I had lost my alignment. ..AGIAN! So I will have to try and make some corrections and keep the hide on...will see what happens.
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Ajooter that bow is looking sweet. I really like those scallops.
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(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/93870F9A-51E6-4B0B-A04B-8FA47A4D30EE_zpsqclpflsa.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/93870F9A-51E6-4B0B-A04B-8FA47A4D30EE_zpsqclpflsa.jpg.html)(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/D7D54DB7-11AF-4F4E-B6B1-DBF319C1D104_zpsujg1tqqw.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/D7D54DB7-11AF-4F4E-B6B1-DBF319C1D104_zpsujg1tqqw.jpg.html)
Added some reflex/ heat treat and got rid of some kinks.
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Ok y'all I need some help here. Osage 66" t2t and 1 1/4" at fades. It's at a low brace (3"-4") and pulled 33# at 19". I want to get the tiller right so any help is greatly appreciated. thanks Tim.
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Timothy
Your right limb fade is a little more stiff than the left.....I would fix that first Then it looks like you have a a couple of mid-limb stiff spots on both limbs. I marked your picture.
You may wish to get some other opinions but thats the way I see it. Also these areas are not very far "off" so take light scrapes and excercise it between.
rich
PS: be careful of that "hingy" spot on the right limb just outside the stiff fade.
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What rich said. I agree, and maybe short string it after you do a little scraping in those spots.
Tattoo Dave
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What rich said. I agree, and maybe short string it after you do a little scraping in those spots.
Tattoo Dave
YEP! "The Long String Lies" is a nearly perpetual refrain around here. Get off of it as soon as you can safely draw the bow back to as much as an inch over brace height. That hingey-looking spot is nervous making to be sure, but we'd kind of need to see the unstrung profile to know if there is a good reason for it to look like that at that spot.
OneBow
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He's at low brace.
+1 what Rich said.
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That half eye seems to still be treating you well rich...sound advice
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Ajooter, just put a damp rag at the end of your rawhide and bend that tip over or adjust both tips. That way you don't have to worry about the rawhide.
Patrick
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Finally got in several hours of good work today and made some progress. I need some "fresh eye" help please. I'm at 40# @ 21". Time to pull more poundage.
Braced at 4 1/2".
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%20on%20Tiller%20Tree_zpslphfksul.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%20on%20Tiller%20Tree_zpslphfksul.jpg.html)
Drawn to 21".
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%20on%20Tiller%20Tree-2_zpsfm9inbu8.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%20on%20Tiller%20Tree-2_zpsfm9inbu8.jpg.html)
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Drewster
That is a pretty bend right there....I dont see anything wrong at all.... the left tip is MAYBE one/two scrapes behind the right, but I personally would not mess with it.
rich
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Drewster
That is a pretty bend right there....I dont see anything wrong at all.... the left tip is MAYBE one/two scrapes behind the right, but I personally would not mess with it.
rich
Thanks Rich,
I've been trying to go slow and really improve my tillering.....train those eyes to "see". I'm wondering if the left limb is a little flat a few inches out of the fade. I'll keep a close watch as I pull more weight. Appreciate your help.
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I dont know if this will help or hurt......when I'm looking at my bows for "evenness" of bend I dont look at the back at all.....I follow the belly line. The difference being that on mine the back is usually "natural" and the belly has the "worked" surface so I learned to judge by the belly line.
I went back and looked at your pics again and thought I saw what you mentioned in the braced pic but it is not so in the draw pic.....and I am not there so I'm stickin to "pretty bend" assessment,sir
rich
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Drewster
That is a pretty bend right there....I dont see anything wrong at all.... the left tip is MAYBE one/two scrapes behind the right, but I personally would not mess with it.
rich
+1
Patrick
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Drewster that hickory is looking good
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Sure does, GS. :)
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Very nice drew
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Plan B, Gutshot, and Drewster, all looking good going into the final stages.
ajooter, good luck on that handle line up.
I did get some scraping accomplished today. Started with 1/4" positive tiller and hope to end up with 1/8th. Currently 3/16 but I've found with the top being longer I'll probably lose that 1/16th while working down to weight.
Pulling 45@20 and shooting for 50@28. All finesse work from here on out.
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Drewster, good lookin bend. Fred, also a sweet lookin bend. Anyone know what kinda birch this is.
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Woods a bendin! Timothy, Drewster, Fred - they are looking good guys.
Still shooting mine about 20 arrows each evening. Will do that for a couple of weeks and watch the tiller. Then it will be time to finish it off.
Mitch
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That is the white kind of birch, or paper birch. Are you on the hunt for some? I can find all three fairly easily if you want me to cut one.
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Dakota, whats the bow makin kind? A buddy of mine has acres of this stuff.
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I have a white birch in progress right now. It is one of my options for a trade bow. Not sure how it will work out but so far it looks promising. PlanB has made a couple out of black birch that look really nice.
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The BL is full tillered at the upper end of the weight. Shot it about 75 times its got a good smooth pull light in the hand with no hand shock. Weight is around 15oz. I got it sanded down smooth and got it in the fummer for a 8 day soak. Can't wait to see it never soaked a BL that long. Then I will check the tiller again then give it a few finishing touches. Lauren is gonna start on the special one off string she calls this one lemon-lime.
All you bowyers are doing a great job. I love looking at all the progress that's getting done. Keep up the good work.
Fred can't think you enough for heading up this trade. You are doing a wonderful job. Heck I've meet some super nice people on here and already have made a few trades for some goodies that I needed and they needed.
Rich thanks for all the help you have gave me and every body else. I would've never attempted a bendy handle bow with out your help. Heck I've fell in love with bendy handles. Be hard to go back to the stiff handle bows now. But I'm sure I will still make a few.
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stix it looks like white or paper birch as Dakota Kid said, but to make sure, what state are you in?
I'm curious to see how white birch works out as a bow. I don't have enough of it surviving on my land after some kind of insect or disease attack for me to want to cut any. As Dakota said most of the bows I've made are black birch, and I'm very happy with how they have turned out.
I have yet to try yellow birch but I will this summer. In terms of rating the birches as bow woods, I can't prove it myself yet, not having tried them all, but just looking at the wood specs I'd guess yellow might be a small amount better than black, and white a little lower in the list. But you never really know unless you try them. Black is the heaviest and stiffest, then yellow, and then white.
Black is by far the straightest and most limbless tree growing here. It looks like natural telephone poles here. It's easy to cut clear wood from it. Yellow tends to have branches all down the trunk, to divide, and to grow twisty. It's hard to imagine doing anything but character bows with the quality trees i see here. White might be better I think, but again, I don't have enough to say.
I say go for it -- pick a straight tree, thick as possible (they look small in the pic) and without too many limb scars, and i bet it makes a decent bow.
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Thanx Planb, i'm gonna cut some and try it.
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Man Fred, you been "talkin to them staves" sir......very nice.
I wanted to say that from the start this has been a trade I'm really proud to be a part of.....if ya want to know what they should be go back to page one and start readin 8) 8) 8) I have met some of the nicest people, learned a bunch, and want to keep up the new friendships long after this is history. All of you are a credit to yourselves, bow making, and class acts....each and every one....Proud to know all of you.
Thank you Fred for keeping to your vision, and all you fellas for the great spirit.....this is some very good stuff right here.
rich
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stix-
I have had some good luck with the birch we have around here. better luck with 3-4" saplings than a mature tree. if you can find a thick stand of younger trees, maybe in a regrown clearing?, you stand a good chance of finding more limbless poles. split with bandsaw, remove bark soon, it comes right off when the sap starts running good.
willie
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I see a lot of great work going on. Will be proud to recieve any of them. Been kinda busy on other stuff myself but hope to get some shop time tomorrow to work on the dogwood bow I started. Have managed to shoot and scrape a little on my plan a to fine tune it some. Tiller still looks a little off to me on the tree but it feels great in my hand. Pulls smooth, hits hard, only a faint hint of shock and almost noiseless. So I think I am going to call it good unless something changes as I shoot it more. Its about 1.5# over max weight at max draw length so it should finish up just right. Will try to get a full draw pic tomorrow to see how it looks in the hand.
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Thanx Willie, goin back to my buddies property tomorrow and look around fir bow and arra wood.
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The maple trees have had sap running here so I have been busy with that. I haven't worked on anything lately other than shooting Plan a. I will get in my shop some this weekend to do some more work on plan c.
There are some great looking bows being worked on here. This has been a lot of fun already.
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Been working that FWD handle Osage. Talked to a few bow builders and one said I needed to glue a handle on the back. But being the person I am sometimes I think I can push the limits and try new things. So now my plan B has some real nice curves. And proud to say I screwed up and should've listened on the handle.
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Thats too bad Gutshot. Was looking forward to seeing that one bend.
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Dang Gutshot....did ya get the chance to give her a good autopsy, sir......where did she let go at? I mean a defect of some kind or design problem?
Turtle, if your that close to "center bubble" wrap that baby up .....and then send it to me >:D
rich
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Dang Gutshot....did ya get the chance to give her a good autopsy, sir......where did she let go at? I mean a defect of some kind or design problem?
Turtle, if your that close to "center bubble" wrap that baby up .....and then send it to me >:D
rich
It gave away under the handle overlays. That's ok lesson learned. Picking out another stave to do the same thing but this time I will leave the belly a lot thinker around the handle area. I want stop till I make one or break every stave I have
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What the heck?! That's really disappointing gut!! I can't believe that let go like that.
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Ouch!! Sorry that had to happen Gutshot. Sounds like you are determined to make a go of it though. If you go through all the staves you have and you need more let me know. ;)
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Gut, I hate to see that. I've broke a few but never had one break in that area. It sure looked deep enough.
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Man that sucks gut. Did it let go on a ring at the handle? That would be my thoughts without a closeup.
Osage loves to split, for as tough and resilient wood that it is, that's one of its perks and yet a downfall as well.
Patrick
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Man that sucks gut. Did it let go on a ring at the handle? That would be my thoughts without a closeup.
Osage loves to split, for as tough and resilient wood that it is, that's one of its perks and yet a downfall as well.
Patrick
It actually broke through several rings in several places. Almost came out the belly. I was watching the rings and had some rings on the belly the ran off the side of the bow in the fade area. It was almost like the rings curled over there self. Never seen that before but oh well they all can't be a bow
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I hear ya gut. I done something once that people said was nearly impossible. I crysled Osage and fixed it! I'm still shooting the bow to this day.
Patrick
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Work has been killing me lately...I have to work a little Saturday but after that I really wanna get back to working on a bow or two.
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Oh BUMMER Gutshot. I feel your pain. But glad you are so determined to make your design idea work. That's what winners do. I had a kid's bow explode on me yesterday. Had it 80% done. It happens.
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Sorry for the lack of posts guys... Been busy trying to get stuff together for a big get together I am going to next week. After that, I should get back to working on my bow.
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chasing rings, chasin rings, all I'm doing is chasin rings - got plan A chased and marked, it's still got some drying time. Got Plan AA started, chasin rings on it, hope to have the done over the weekend. Plan B is drying, it's going to get chased as soon as AA is done. AA is actually a seasoned stave, so I would like to get it done this weekend and get it floor tillered. I FINALLY got my carving ax in that I ordered for Christmas, when I start working on tiller I will post it here as well as a picture of that bad boy.
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Sidmand chasing rings chasing rings. That sounds like it could be a country song. Glad to see you making shavings.
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I finally got around to puttin tips on plan a, the bow i almost gave up on. Did some more pullin on it, and it shoots pretty darn well. Currently 52#@28". Has 3/8 positive tiller. I'm sure those numbers will come down some. Put about 30 arra's thru it. Top limbs a bit wonkee so looks like a stiff spot.
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Heres where my plan a vine maple is at.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160304_161046710.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160304_161120270.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160304_152555278.jpg)
It feels great in my hand at this point so I think I will quit messing with the tiller unless it makes a drastic change in the next few hundred shots. Now I need to decide what lipstick to use on it.
I got my plan b dogwood starting to bend a couple inches at floor tiller. Its the cleanest piece of dogwood I ever worked. It had one small pin on each limb and they both disappeared already. Think im going to narow outer half of the limbs a little more and then when its bending on the floor a little more it will be time to add a little reflex ond work on string alignment.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160304_161159024.jpg)
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Turtle, man I like the looks of plan A....my kind of bow. Hope ya dont tweek it no more cause it looks like all business right the way it is.
You got a winnin style there Steve, those front profiles are some deer killin types.
rich
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Turtle, I have to agree with half eye, the plan a is looking real good.
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Stixs that looks like a dandy right there.
Turtle I like that crazy upper limb looks like you done a great job with it
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Stixs, that's a fine looking arrow flinging stick. Very graceful looking tips too. Nice!
Turtle, that bow looks like its done and ready to come out of the oven......you been cook'in in the shop??? I've never had my hands on any vine maple, but from the pics I've seen, it looks like you've done a great job with that bow. Someone will be a happy archer.
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Finally got some work done on my yew stick. anybody have some tiller advice?
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/151AAF35-15D3-4200-A0C7-DA611FCBB2EC.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/151AAF35-15D3-4200-A0C7-DA611FCBB2EC.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/AA37122A-7FD9-4CA6-ACDF-6478894DFC89.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/AA37122A-7FD9-4CA6-ACDF-6478894DFC89.jpg.html)
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Coming along nicely dylan....middle of the left limb looks a little stiff and the inner third of the right limb as well. Let other chime in before you take my advice. Lookin great so far tho!
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Yeah bud, looks like a hinge might be startin on that left limb. Just what i can see from here.
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Hay Dylan is that yew easy to work. I'm liking what I see so far
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Yeah bud, looks like a hinge might be startin on that left limb. Just what i can see from here.
When I first looked at it I thought the same thing....but then I studied a little closer and those dang shadows and different colors in the background might be messing with what I see. :-\ :-\
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Ok fellas. Tell me what ya think. This is right in the middle of my guys weaight. So if something look wrong let me know otherwise I'm going to dress her up and call it! Any comments are very much welcom!
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I tend to use a gizmo a lot, but that right mid limb looks a little stiff to me still. Others have better eyes, I am sure.
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I tend to use a gizmo a lot, but that right mid limb looks a little stiff to me still. Others have better eyes, I am sure.
My thoughts exactly Jeff. The left limb looks perfect. Proceed carefully.
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Ok no problem. A couple scrapes mid right limb.
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I'd be far more infuriated with my lack of progress on the bow, except last weekend instead of chasing rings I was teaching a kid how to shoot a bow for the first time, and it was a bow that Half Eye made. So time well spent, especially since his parents told me that all he talked about when he got home was shooting!
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I just got asked to build a bow for a benefit auction for a man that has been diagnosed with cancer. It is to benefit a fellow that was a good friend of my stepsons before my stepson passed. It needs to be finished by April 30th so I will be spending most of my free time on it for a while instead of my trade bow. My plan a is done exept for lipstick anyway so I should be fine. I will keep on checking in on here but probably wont show much progress for a while.
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Steve,
If ya feel like it maybe you would share that build with us? I know I'd sure like to see it happen. Good on ya man for the gesture too 8) 8)
rich
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Steve,
If ya feel like it maybe you would share that build with us? I know I'd sure like to see it happen. Good on ya man for the gesture too 8) 8)
rich
Excellent Turtle.....yes indeed, keep us posted!
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Steve,
If ya feel like it maybe you would share that build with us? I know I'd sure like to see it happen. Good on ya man for the gesture too 8) 8)
rich
Excellent Turtle.....yes indeed, keep us posted!
Sure. I will probably start a new thread so I dont clutter this one up. I chased a ring on an osage stave today and after roughing out a bow I ran into a couple checks I didnt know were in it. It will still make a bow but is gonna need a couple sinew wraps for safety so It won't be going to auction. Will try to get a better stave dug out tomorrow afternoon and start over.
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I spent some time chasing a yew ring today. It is slow going, especially since I had to prune an apple tree and go to a wedding too. At least I got some new shoots from the apple tree that may make some arrows later.
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I goofed :( I thought my 6 inch caul would be too much reflex, so I decided to build a new one with 3 inch reflex. Besides, the curves in the red bud were too wide. I bought some boards, traced out a 3 inch reflex, and screwed together three boards to make it wide enough.
I started clamping and cracked the limb badly at one of the woop-de-doos. I didn't think I tightened it that much, I've used more force while clamping osage, but the pictures tell that I goofed. I guess it is on to the plan B dogwood :( Tell me if I am wrong, but I no longer see a bow in this red bud.
Michael
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Loope IDK looks pretty bad might be able to super glue it and clamp it together to see.
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Loope, with all the flexing that needs to take place in that limb, I'm not sure how you could ever trust that section again. Maybe someone else has a magic fix.
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Dang Loope........ I was really wanting to see that one bending. If it was mine I would probably glue and clamp that back up just to see if it would hold. But probably wouldnt trust it enough to give it away if it did.
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Loope, I had the same results on an osage that I was hoping to use. I tried to get too much out on one clamping session. Now I try to clamp them snug and then add clamping pressure in stages as I work the heat gun up and down the stave.
I did use loctite 420 and add saw dust before clamping tight. I'm going to see if I can get mine to at least work at a lower poundage bow that I'll keep at home.
Hate to see that happen to you as it was looking very promising. I think a guy needs to work the woopdedoos out slowly in stages. It's just too much stress to try to force it all at once.
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I am going to switch over to the dogwood, which seems very straight... very much different that this red bud. The red bud was getting interesting and I was looking forward to getting it tillered and shooting. Maybe I will keep it around to see what I can do to it later.
The dogwood is debarked and the cambium cleaned off, ready for layout and the hatchet, but unfortunately I won't be able to do any bow work till next weekend. I am looking forward to giving it a try, it is a pretty good looking, with an interesting, slightly pinkish hue.
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Here is an character elm I am thinking of throwing into the mix of possibilitys Seems to really shoot nice even with the bottom limb twist. What do you think?(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/3e446c81-68ce-460f-8d2b-43847580dd24_zpsemp4mfpl.jpg)
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one more... and nice bows everyone!!(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/5db3cd25-83f0-45b2-8e16-866110de3b4b_zpsu7wqndlb.jpg)
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hammer,
Ya gotta yank that one back for us :o
Don
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Hammer, love to see the draw on that when it's ready.
Loope, you haven't been the only one to screw up a good stave. I may have ruined one of the nicest osage staves I've had today. Pics to follow later. It may still be a keeper but I no longer plan on using it for a trade bow. I messed it up dry heating curves and must have rushed my bending although it should have been plenty hot enough. It even split between the ring on the top limb tip. Stupid, Stupid, Stupid ME!!!
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Damned Fred, I'll bet ya save it......short bendy with sinew 8) I aint got a single thing to say about making those "what the hell was I thinking" moves
Hammer, that has to be the most squirrely piece a wood I ever seen with a string on it, it's so cool 8)
rich
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ok I will proceed but it' s only to brace yet....Think I will add a layer or two of sinew first-Hammertime
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It can be repaired. Ask me how I know. :-X
Too big a hurry and it was 85% completed.
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Fred ew there a bad one
Hammer time if that bow had a skin on it it would look just like a snake on the ground
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I had it looking pretty good
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/CCE64420-3843-491A-91AA-FF6A2C4CFA2B.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/CCE64420-3843-491A-91AA-FF6A2C4CFA2B.jpg.html)
Then it broke a inch away from my target draw :'( :'(
All well back to the honeysuckle. I'm also going to rough out another stave incase it doesn't make weight.
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/B2E7D493-AB07-4CE1-9E68-3DF0125EE59B.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/B2E7D493-AB07-4CE1-9E68-3DF0125EE59B.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/C6C40B37-5B19-4F6B-A022-E8063B8BF0A3.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/C6C40B37-5B19-4F6B-A022-E8063B8BF0A3.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/17449A3D-5A16-4E03-863A-DE726EA26AF6.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/17449A3D-5A16-4E03-863A-DE726EA26AF6.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/327FD672-191F-4CF2-8A3B-6613AFE824B6.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/327FD672-191F-4CF2-8A3B-6613AFE824B6.jpg.html)
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BIG BUMMER Dylan. Yeah, that bend was looking really nice. I had that happen last week with a hickory kid's bow. Why does it have to happen when you're almost finished?
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Awwwe man dylan!!! That was really coming along! Tough breaks all around fellas! I'm working on a third project now...might keep this one semi covert until I'm closer with it. Gonna wait till its a little warmer to bend the tips on plan b. Plan a is still just waiting for further tillering. Plan c....now that will be a couple firsts for me >:D
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Dylan, for what it is worth sir......your tiller looked damned fine, certainly not enough off to warrant that break.......looks like that cluster of pin knots did ya in (judging by the look of the grain inside the break). Stuff like that is why old men cuss so damned good >:D (Cause we done it more than you :-X)
rich
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Dang - looks like we had a rough day in the bow trade! It happens to all of us! All a guy can do is start another. >:( >:(
HT - that bow is crazy snakey! :laugh: Can't wait to see it bending!
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I forgot to mention hammertime....that thing is siiiiiick...can't wait to see her bend!
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Got my plan A almost finished up. Took a set in the upper limb but it looks good. Gave it a racket grip wrap, yew tips and arrow rest. Pulls 45#@29". And shoots pretty good too. Here's a few pics. I'll post good ones as soon as it's all dolled up!
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Man Timothy does that ever look good sir
rich
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That looks great tim...those tips are gorgeous.
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Man hate to see all those splinters. Timothy, thats a beaut. Hammer , that thing is so wavy i'm gettin dizzy😄
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Looks great Tim
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Thanks guys. Can't wait to put some more arrows down range.
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well I spent some time working on bows and maple syrup today. I induced a bit of reflex in my plan b black locust and then put a raw hide backing on it. I also got my plan c white birch bending some more. It is ready for long string now. My son and I got 20 gallons of sap boiled down to about 1/2 gallon. I hope to finish that off tomorrow night. I am tired now.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/043DAFEB-9CD3-4490-BB19-1B49B305A039_zpsuqsenpno.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/043DAFEB-9CD3-4490-BB19-1B49B305A039_zpsuqsenpno.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/85B66CD2-D6B8-45B5-A6B2-79CDE43661A1_zpsiphczkef.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/85B66CD2-D6B8-45B5-A6B2-79CDE43661A1_zpsiphczkef.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/F6203C2E-1FBD-4182-8F9D-3C8775D02EE5_zps9d096wex.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/F6203C2E-1FBD-4182-8F9D-3C8775D02EE5_zps9d096wex.jpg.html)
Looks like a couple of casualties on here today. That sucks. Hammer, if you can pull that bow off it will be really cool.
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YUM Swampman. Does your recipient get maple syrup along with his bow???
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;D
YUM Swampman. Does your recipient get maple syrup along with his bow???
I wouldn't want to risk shipping a sticky liquid with a bow. I would hate for the bow to be ruined because of a mistake like that. I guess I will just have to eat a lot of corn bread and maple syrup.
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thanks guys glad i'm not the only one who thought it was shaping up nicely :-X i think it was the combination of the pin knot cluster and the decrowning that killed it :-\
drewster: i just dont know :'(
swampman: that looks like a fun project with the maple syrup ;D
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Timothy that bow looks awesome. Love those yew tips.
Swampman. Yummy maple syrup is my favorite. I make molasses. Never made syrup but would like to give it a try.
A bow and now, my shave horse broke for the second time. It's no longer fixable. Started on a state of the art hillbilly fied bow making table. When its complete I will start making bows again. I will also post some picks of it after completion.
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I've never tried maple syrup. I bet it's good!
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Sidmand chasing rings chasing rings. That sounds like it could be a country song. Glad to see you making shavings.
I think it would be a good song - might have to get my daughters to write something up. I got PlanB chased down, going to get a belly split off it and reserve it for a bamboo backed kids/lightweight bow. Got the seasoned stave marked up, but didn't get a chance to finish it up - my next youngest daughters birthday was Saturday, that cut into my time considerably.
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Swampman that little sugar-bush ya got going is makin my jowls drool bud. By the way the bows look real good too >:D
Dang Gutshot, yer getting hard on the equipment bud ::) ::) sure hope you and Ms. Lauren get rollin again soon sir !!!!
rich
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Wait... Mmmmmm maple syrup.
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No bow work today but I did finish off the first batch of maple syrup for the year. I ended up with a little over 2 quarts of syrup. My son ate everything beyond the 2 quarts. He ate it still warm and with a spoon. ;D
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Swampman he want sleep tonight
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Man I need to get busy again... I started working on a hhb stave and still have my snakey Osage stave that I have been drying out ... Nap times over need to make some wood dust
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I think I FINALLY have figured out where the ring I'm after is. Man the sapwood on this thing is ridiculously thick! Or at least it seems that way to me, maybe it's average and I just don't know any better. I finally have figured out a method that works with clamping, I was having issues with the stave popping out of the vice and wasting my time cursing it out and re-setting it.
One thing I noticed is that when removing the sapwood in one direction it seems to tear out a bit, but in the other direction it's a lot smoother. Is that normal for Black Locust?
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Ranasp, I think that's normal for any wood - in one way your going "with the grain", the other way your going "against the grain", and going against it seems to pull your draw knife into the wood, causing the tearouts. At least, that's how I see it in my head and in my experience.
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Ranasp I never use a draw knife t remove the sap from black Locus. I only use a hatchet. Works a lot better for me and faster but I can never use the first ring I always have to chase several rings before I get a good one that I haven't hatcheted through.
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I used a hatchet to remove the bark and a bit of the sapwood, but I got nervous about whacking into the heartwood so I switched back to the draw knife.
On the maple syrup note, I'm super jealous. Every now and again my Canadian relatives would bring a vat of this stuff...Like super thick maple syrup, if you put a spoon in it and lifted you would risk bending the spoon. Absolutely delicious stuff, but I've got a sweet tooth.
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We just had our Sugar on Snow supper at the local Grange, a once a year event as a benefit. It's hot maple syrup on a big bowl of snow for desert -- with pickles and donuts on the side. Ham, deviled eggs, baked beans, homemade dinner rolls and cole slaw is the traditional main course. I waited on tables as a volunteer -- had over 200 people attend. Sugaring season is just about over -- sap is still running here, but it might finish shortly because the temps are supposed to hit high sixties tomorrow.
Nice looking boiling setup, swampman!
Haven't worked on bows in almost a week, working mainly outdoors in the good weather. Pruning and clearing brush. I picked up some nice buckthorn trunks while clearing brush today, and I have some wild apple I have to split up into staves, about 6-8" diameter. I'm holding off cutting more elm until bark slipping time, but there are a number of medium trees I have to remove shortly.
I did shoot some arrows through Plans A and B before supper last few days. Plus my older longer (64") 46# black birch bow. It seems to shoot faster than the newer ones even though Plan B is higher weight and Plan A is the same weight.
Being shorter, they seem to stack w/ lower early string tension. That would explain the lower speeds -- down 5-10 fps. compared to the longer bow. I might make a Plan C bow 70" and see what I can get out of it. Probably a pyramid board bow from black birch. I found a couple really nice grained BB planks in my stack and I'll probably draw one out tomorrow. Be nice to start posting something again.
Sorry to read about the breakages guys. I guess I'm about due for one, too.
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I've been working on my new shaving table and haven't got to work on bows either. But today we had 77 degree weather and fishing bug sat in bad. And after this evening I will be going every afternoon for the next few weeks so not much bow building is gonna get done.
32" 13lb stripper
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NICE!!!!
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Dang Gutshot, I don't blame you for fishing if the strippers that size are running. Enjoy!
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Gutshot, only thing missing from that picture is the fillet knife 8) 8) 8)
rich
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Gutshot, only thing missing from that picture is the fillet knife 8) 8) 8)
rich
Oh I got the knife out after the picture
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Nice striper gut....they don't make there way up the hudson for a little while yet where I'm at. Looking good guys all around. I've been stuck messing with plan c....it's got me hooked and I'll be messing around with it a little longer I'm thinking.
Starting to warm up here....should be able to do some work from the back of my truck on lunch at work. Thats always a nice break from work. 8)
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Just returned last night from a family get together in CO. I'll check in after more coffee with some updates.
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Nice catch gut! Our White's and walleyes are fixen to make their run. That will consume a good bit of my evening. Never really got after the strippers but I've caught a few. Man what a fight!
Patrick
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Gutshot,
Nice fish.......Was that a Cumberland lake or river fish....looks like a lake fish, was it on live or artificial? I've have caught them on artificial fishing for smallies this time of year.
We'll have to swap some fish stories at Moontree..
DBar
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D Bar lake fish artificial bait. Went back tonight and only caught a 19" large mouth. But the good thing is the Drum are moving in and bow fishing season is getting close.
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Sorry fellas, I haven't been near as active in this trade as I had hoped to be.
Too many obligations on the trading post for one.
I can't seem to leave bison parts alone when they get available either.
I'm making 3 bows to give one or 2 to the guy who let me cut osage down in Iowa; heading to Des Moines in 2 weeks for a memorial for my father who passed away down in Harlingen Texas 2 weeks ago so I want to be able to give the man the bows while I'm there.
Always kids and family.
This thing called work is getting in the way some too.
Once back from Iowa I am gonna get after it on this post and try to keep up with you folks, but that aint easy 8) You all got some cool stuff cookin here.
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Would like some input on this one. Seems to me that it needs to bend more closer to the fades and handle section. It has a slight hinge on the top limb but got most of it worked out and blended in. Top limb on the right 1" longer. Now pulling 45#@22. Pics show relaxed, braced @6 1/4" and drawn to 18".
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looks pretty good to me Fred. It could probably bend a little more at the fades as you said, but still, that's really dang close to where it needs to be, at least to my eyes.
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Looking pretty good to me to Fred - I am assuming it is parallel limb?
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Actually hoping for a little give in the handle at full draw. Why I'm thinking the inside 1/3 needs to work a little more.
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I agree with your summation, Fred.
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That right outer is still a little stiff fred. Like you said...you need to take some wood off the middle third of the bow to get that give in the handle you want.
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I agree with your assessment sir. You could sneek that bend back closer to the centerline but I'd do that slow as you messsin with the overall power in the middle there. I dont know what exactly the profile you are going for but it looks like you could bring the tips back just a bit also.....even if you want stiff tips there some room to bring 'em back a little bit.
Sayin all that, I think she looks really nice
rich
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Taking a day off from the bows in progress while I get 3 sets of billets ready to glue up. I always mix too much for splicing just one bow so thought I'd get a few of these out of the way and ready to work up.
Steamed them and will clamped until morning, then mix up some urac and get them glued together.
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Ok took the BL out of the fumming tube today. I'm very happy with the color. After I get several coats of tung oil on should really pop then. I hope my victim likes the natural aged color.
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That's going to look great!
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Man Fred you a busy man there...I never did a spliced set of billets.
Gutshot, that looks damned fine sir...like that "aged" look a lot.
rich
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Geez Fred, you are industrious gluing up three billet bows at once. I think I've done well when I get one glued up.
Gutshot, if your "victim" doesn't like that bow, I'll take it in a heartbeat. Tung oil should REALLY make that baby look sweet. Nice job.
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Fred, everything your workin on looks sweet. Gutshot, that fuming looks awesome.
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Fuming turned out very nice Gutshot. How many bows you making Fred? :laugh: They are looking good!
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Man Fred, that's a lot of bows in the works! Nice job!
Gutshot, I'm loving that color after fuming. I may have to try that at some point.
I'll be working this weekend, so not sure what I'll be getting done. Everybody doing great though. Keep up the good work fellas!
Tattoo Dave
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Awesome gut...can't wait to see it with some finish on it!
Hope to be working on something this weekend.
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Fred... you look nearly as busy Rich.
Gutshot... realy like the looks of that fume job. What strength ammonia are you using?
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Taking a day off from the bows in progress while I get 3 sets of billets ready to glue up. I always mix too much for splicing just one bow so thought I'd get a few of these out of the way and ready to work up.
Steamed them and will clamped until morning, then mix up some urac and get them glued together.
I bought a couple of syringes from the vet to mix small amounts of epoxy. I can mix about 3 cc quite accurately. I haven't had a splice come apart yet. I leave the syringes loaded ready to go.
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Fred... you look nearly as busy Rich.
Gutshot... realy like the looks of that fume job. What strength ammonia are you using?
Dollor store don't know the streangth
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Beautifully colors gut! Do you have any pictures of your fuming setup? I've been wanting to try that ever since I seen simson do one.
Patrick
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Beautifully colors gut! Do you have any pictures of your fuming setup? I've been wanting to try that ever since I seen simson do one.
Patrick
No, but here is what it is, 6" pvc pipe cut upper and lower holes in it and covered the holes with clear plastic cut from a jug for being able to see it. Used a short bucket for the bottom to set the amonia in and the pipe. Used a cap with a hole drilled in it with wire going through it to hang the bow from. Simple had everything laying around so that's what was used. Simon uses a long plastic looking bag at the top end he has a heavy duty close hanger With wire or something to hang his bow with and a bucket attached at lower side to put his amonia in. The hangs it from the ceiling. It like it you can see the whole bow.
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I had a work trip to Germany this week, just got back last night, tired from the trip. There was a lot of reading this morning to catch up on the bow trade. Now I am ready to get back to it. I've got to sharpen the drawknife and then get to work on the dogwood.
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Beautifully colors gut! Do you have any pictures of your fuming setup? I've been wanting to try that ever since I seen simson do one.
Patrick
No, but here is what it is, 6" pvc pipe cut upper and lower holes in it and covered the holes with clear plastic cut from a jug for being able to see it. Used a short bucket for the bottom to set the amonia in and the pipe. Used a cap with a hole drilled in it with wire going through it to hang the bow from. Simple had everything laying around so that's what was used. Simon uses a long plastic looking bag at the top end he has a heavy duty close hanger With wire or something to hang his bow with and a bucket attached at lower side to put his amonia in. The hangs it from the ceiling. It like it you can see the whole bow.
Thanks gut, I might just try your idea. I haven't to have an eight inch piece of pvc about seven feet long. Do you hook your wire to the string knock? Do you think if you were to cover a section of the bow that it would not change color? Like if it was in the sun?
Patrick
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Beautifully colors gut! Do you have any pictures of your fuming setup? I've been wanting to try that ever since I seen simson do one.
Patrick
No, but here is what it is, 6" pvc pipe cut upper and lower holes in it and covered the holes with clear plastic cut from a jug for being able to see it. Used a short bucket for the bottom to set the amonia in and the pipe. Used a cap with a hole drilled in it with wire going through it to hang the bow from. Simple had everything laying around so that's what was used. Simon uses a long plastic looking bag at the top end he has a heavy duty close hanger With wire or something to hang his bow with and a bucket attached at lower side to put his amonia in. The hangs it from the ceiling. It like it you can see the whole bow.
Thanks gut, I might just try your idea. I haven't to have an eight inch piece of pvc about seven feet long. Do you hook your wire to the string knock? Do you think if you were to cover a section of the bow that it would not change color? Like if it was in the sun?
Patrick
I use a metal cloths hanger wire and bend it to fit the knock grove the color is the same under the wire.
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Thanks gut, I appreciate your help there bud.
Ok, enough hijacking, back to the trade! >:D
Patrick
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I got a lot done today. First I finished chasing a ring on the yew stave. The sapwood is now about 1/4" thick. There is, however one small ring violation. and I am noticing how easy it is to dent. Adding to the fact that I am working yew in a dry environment, I am thinking about putting a backing on this one.--Which is a problem as I don't have any nice backings. I have sinew, but I don't like how it looks by itself. If there is anyone who has thin rawhide or skins and is willing to consider a trade, please PM me.
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I also put some bends into the holey osage and got both staves bending with to a stiff floor tiller stage.
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While I was waiting for the osage to cool, I rebuilt my shave horse. The top piece was cracking and I had to replace it. Can I just say how much I like the combination of my draw knife and shave horse? The more I practice with them, the less I need or want power tools. I even did most of the cutting for the repair work with a hand saw.
While I was waiting for the other half to cool, I took a fist sized piece of obsidian and started hitting it. I haven't knapped in a while, so I was very surprised when I found this in the middle of that rock.
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Looks like some good progress Jeff. Nice point too.
Last night I was back at boiling sap. I have a lot of time waiting while I tend the fire when I make maple syrup so I was able to get some work done on my plan b BL. I got the rawhide backing cleaned up and thinned. I then started tillering. I got the bow bending pretty even and have gotten it to 14 inches. I ended up boiling sap until 2 am. It was worth it. I ended up with another gallon of syrup.
Today I didn't get any bow work done. My son and I spent the day building the stage and set for his school's spring musical. We will be doing that for the next several weekends. We got a lot of work today. My son isn't interested in building bows so I always enjoy building sets for the school plays. It gives me a chance to build with my son.
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Jeff those 2 bows are looking good. One of these days I'm gonna get a price of yew to work. I think that's the coolest looking bow wood they are.
Swampman how many trees do you have tapped. Sounds like your going have plenty of syrup.
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Jeff those 2 bows are looking good. One of these days I'm gonna get a price of yew to work. I think that's the coolest looking bow wood they are.
Swampman how many trees do you have tapped. Sounds like your going have plenty of syrup.
Gut, this is my first piece of yew and I am liking it. It will be hard to give away, but one of these is for my brother, the other is the trade bow. Don't know which is which yet.
Pretty sure you can never have enough real maple syrup.
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Ok I've got a 66" WDB rattler or copperheads to put on the Black Locus. Here is how I'm going to do it. Everybody pick which skin you would prefer as if It was your bow. And if the victim of this bow comments then that's the skin it will get. If the victim don't comment I will put the skin that gets the most votes. Thanks Paul
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since I think it is illegal to possess western diamondback skins in Utah, I vote copperhead (no idea if those are legal here)
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I vote copperhead. I always loved the look of them.
Kyle
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Man, jeffp51 those re looking really nice!
I'm watching the moisture drop a little every day on the blank for my Plan C bow. Shooting in Plan A and B. I'm getting pretty accurate results with both of them. But I'm not too happy with my target. The arrows often bounce right off of it! My wife bought it for me as a surprise last Christmas. I don't know what it is filled with, but it seems to pack, and now it almost always bounces anywhere near the bullseye. >:( Taking a lot of the joy out of shooting, but I don't want to say anything about it!
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Copperhead for me too. Just like the look of them.
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Gutshot,
either of them will look good, Maybe ya should lay both on the or near the bow and see which seems to go better. Aint really an answer but I recommend you make it the way you like it, then whoever the lucky guy is will "your kinda bow"
rich
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I. Vote copperhead too.
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Gut, I have 10 maple trees tapped and I vote copperhead.
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copperheads look so cool. dont get me wrong WDB is bada$$, just like copperheads.
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Either or gut...both are gorgeous. You could probably split them and have enough skins for two bows.
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Both skins look good Gutshot.
Jeff - those bows are looking nice, you might have to flip a coin to see which one goes where! :laugh:
PlanB - Sounds like a bag target. Mine do that after a while too. I flip them over and stomp them a bit - it helps for awhile. One side have 5 bullseyes so I try to shoot at different ones too. Got to get my money worth!
Still shooting my hackberry trade bow - not taking any additional set and shooting real nice. Just started tillering the trilam - will see how that goes!
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Hey thanks MWosborn, I'll try that with the target!
Can't comment on the snake skins -- was hoping not to get one! I used to keep them as pets as a kid and wanted to grow up to be a herpetologist so it has the same appeal for me as a dog skin covered bow. :laugh: One exception might be an invasive Burmese python skin from south Florida -- they're eating up all kinds of wildlife there, mammals, alligators, and snakes, too, with a population explosion pretty much unchecked. Maybe bowyers could help that situation with those snake skins. Video:
http://www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/invasion-of-the-giant-pythons-video-full-episode/5565/
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Jeff, it looks like both bows are getting there. I might have some rawhide if you don't find anything. Mine isn't as clean as some I've had.
Gutshot, either skin would be nice. I personally have never used one yet although I have a couple. Guess I'm waiting for a really snaky stave to use them on. I work mostly with osage and like the character of the wood too much to cover it with skins.
I'm currently helping clean up a friends estate that his son is burdened with. That sounds bad but anyone who has had to go through it knows what I'm talking about. Lot's of items to get rid of. My buddy was a hoarder of things.
I'll be busy with ebay, craig's list and possibly auction in the next few weeks and will still be working on a couple, three of these bows.
Anyone who is ready to ship can let me know and we'll see where everyone stands.
I need to get in touch with a handful of those that haven't been active to see how far along they are. If you are concerned or need help just shoot me a PM.
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Fred are you thinking about bumping the shipment date up? I'll be ready in 2-3 weeks
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My victim's bow is ready whenever the trade decides to ship.
rich
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Shipment date is still by Aug. 15th but if both you and your victim are done I don't have a problem with shipping early. Anytime is fine by me. I just don't want someone receiving a bow that hasn't shown any progress on their own commitment. And because you don't know who's building for you I'd just as soon you run it by me before you ship. Does that make sense to you guys?
So try to keep me up to date when your done.
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Here's my plan A . The one i gave up on. Hackberry 64"ttt 51#@28". Top limb is a lil wonky and a touch of the flip tip pulled out. But let me tell ya this baby is one smooth shooter, like butterto draw and zero hand bump. I draw 27" and it's #48. Top limb has about 1/2" set and bottom has about 1" set, but tips are still above handle. It takes some set after un stringing but always comes back. Tell me what ya'll think.
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A couple more
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Yep.....no doubt about it sir......that has got to go to the deer woods. Anybody should be real proud to take that bow hunting. 8)
rich
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Very nice Stix!!!
DBar
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Stix you can build another one if you need the practice or want to but that one would be more than welcome at my door. Good Job!!!
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That's a beauty stix! And sounds like a great bow to shoot. Thumbs up!
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Looks like I'm gonna have to get on it. I've got a few roughed out ready to be tillered. And a couple staves picked out ready to mess with. I've about got everything caught up on after a couple of months with no free time to work on much. 1 more bow to make for a professor, the first one started to delaminates at about 24" draw. Then I gotta clean out a shed and I'll be ready to attack the bows with minimal distraction. Atleast the down time from building has given the sknew backed ERC plenty of time to dry, though the sinew did try ripping apart one limb.
Kyle
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Nice bow stix...I'd take it!
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Thanx guys, really like this hackberry stuff. Got a couple more in the works. I would like to get a better one than this out to my victim, but if the bow gods arent on my side, i will gladly send this out.
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Stix. The only thing I see wrong with it. That bow is for right handers DANGIT!!!! I would learn to shoot RH if it showed up at my door. Great job some lucky person is gonna love it
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Ok I went with copper heads on the BL seemed like that's what every body was leaning toward. Me too. Got them glued on and now ready for a leather grip or beaver tail. Choices choices got to sleep on that one.
Almost done with my new shaving table been a week since I made any shavings.
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Stix - nice looking hackberry! And I agree with you - I really like working with the hackberry. Of the whitewoods I have worked with, it is my favorite.
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Yeah Mitch, i can see why some folks compare it to osage. It's shoots quik and hits hard. Can't wait to get more experience with it.
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Stix, that hackberry looks really nice. If that were to show up at my door, I would be thrilled.
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Some good looking bows coming around. Me... I spent this weekend working on my drawknife, in preparation for my Plan B bow. I received a brand new Two Cherries drawknife for Christmas this year, which was almost sharp enough for rough debarking. But since I blew the red bud on the caul and need to start on a new stave, I decided it was time to actually flatten and sharpen the drawknife properly.
The grind on the drawknife was nowhere near flat, and the tangs were higher than the edge. It took a lot of work with a big file to get it near flat. I tried for a while with my X-coarse diamond stone, but realized I needed more. A trip to the store for some 80 and 120 grit paper. Now hours of hand grinding with sandpaper taped to my granite and I have a drawknife that looks like it is ready for sharpening. It is ready for the waterstones now, should finish it tomorrow, then it is on to the plan B dogwood stave.
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Got my plan A done. It Osage 66" t2t just under 1 1/4" at its widest and pulls 41#@28". And 45# @30". It's got yew tip and arrow rest. I built up the handle with cork and used elk hide for the wrap (at least I think it's elk hide). It's nice none the less. I've been shooting it and it is fun to shoot. I'm going to give Hunterbob a lot of credit for this one as well as you guys on here. Thank you for the help! This is my first selfbow. Now to finish plan B And C.
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Nice lookin stik Timothy, congrats on ur first, welcome to the addiction😜
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Looks great tim...your hooked now!
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Tim bow looks good. Wish my first was that nice. Those Yew tip overlays are nice love the color of them. Also is that a Black Locus tree your bow is leaned up on. If so there is a bunch of good bows sanding there
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Man Tim,
+1 what Gutshot said, thats a damned fine bow right there mine should have been so good ( hint: it wasn't even close)
rich
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A lot better than my first bow, too!
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Thanks guys! It's a fun shooter. The tree is elm. I've been eyeballing it since I started this adventure but the wife and kids would kill me if I take their tree swing away.
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That's a nice looking hackberry stix! I really like it. I've got a hackberry stave but not sure southern hackberry will work. Need to give it a try.
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>:D Tim, It's against the law to give away your first bow. Sorry chap you're going to have to make another. :laugh:
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Yep Tim, you got the sickness.
You'll need to use caution while driving, as you may find your eyes wandering to the roadsides to examine trees.
Nice bow you finished there too!
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I'm also going to give hackberry a go. My property is abundant with them. This limb with all of the top tension has been screaming at me for 5 years besides being in my way every time I take this route down to the creek. I can't tell you how many times one of those branches has slapped me.
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I'm also going to give hackberry a go. My property is abundant with them. This limb with all of the top tension has been screaming at me for 5 years besides being in my way every time I take this route down to the creek. I can't tell you how many times one of those branches has slapped me.
Look closely guys Fred has already built steps to get up in that tree to get his Limb. 😃
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If those steps are level, that tree is growing at a crazy angle
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It is spring break! the students won't be back for a week and I have some time to play. I hope to make some good progress. First task is untwisting about 45 degrees of yewwood. The softness scares me a little. I am thinking support the clamped areas with a couple of layers of leather top and bottom and the same where I apply the twisting force. then wrap an area with a damp cloth and foil, heat, and twist. then move on and do a little more. The twist is pretty evenly distributed from one end to the other. Any suggestions? should I put a coat of shellack on the back first?
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I use this strap wench I made. It will hold on most shapes and spreads the load enough so it won't mark. If the stave is the same size from handle to tip I have had good luck steaming and untwisting the whole limb in one go. If you have already tapered it some then you have to do it in sections.
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:D Those steps are for a tree stand that is going to be built after the limb is down. You ought to see all of the rubs on the smaller trees along that bottom side of the creek and it's less than 100 yds from my back porch. Spotted a nice 5x5 under that tree the past 2 years along with a couple 6 pointers sparring within 15 yds of the tree.
Jeff, I'm trying to picture the twist. If it looks like I think it does your best bet is to straighten it as close to the handle as possible and the remainder of the limb will follow.
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It started twisting once it got to my dry climate and loosing moisture content, I think. It happens to a lot of staves that get sent me. I will definitely start at the handle and work outward.
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Jeff, could you post a pic?
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Yew responds really well to heat and Del has posted lots about straightening it on his blog; if the wood is fully dry, then dry heat works really well, and I have had good success with taking the bow down to finished dimensions (brace) and combining heat treating the belly with straightening. Once the heat treat is done, clamping the bow down while it cools takes out most of the twist. Yew reacts to heat treating REALLY well, my last yew bow gained something like a 30per cent improvement in cast after a moderate heat treat.
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Yep Tim, you got the sickness.
You'll need to use caution while driving, as you may find your eyes wandering to the roadsides to examine trees.
Nice bow you finished there too!
I'm glad I'm not the only one that risks death in pursuit of good bow wood. You'll never catch me on a cell phone or texting, but my eyes are never solely focused on the road. I even keep a notebook in the car where I jot down addresses/ locales of primo trees. There are actually a bunch of huge yew trees around my city that have been neglected as far as trimming goes. I've seen some that have as many as a dozen 4-6" trunks. I'm guessing they were cut off at the ground 50 or 60 years ago and haven't been trimmed since.
I've gotten my rock elm to the breaking in stage. It shoots well, even better after I took some more material off the tips. It was thumping my hand a bit at first. I had some frustrations with it not holding heat corrections, but I figured it out. It got warmer here and the furnace hasn't been running that much and forgot to get the dehumidifier running. Being on lake Erie has it's perks but the constant humidity is't one of them. I may end up making a small dry room where it's easier to control the moisture. I go through a dehumidifier every 2-3 years, with them running constant all summer just to keep it around 55%. I even have what is considered a dry basement around here.
I'm making a work road trip starting tomorrow. Headed to Mt Vernon IL for 4 days then to several small towns in KY for the second week. I'll get some pics of the bow up when I return. I hope to be able to check the boards on my trip, but if I go completely MIA You'll know why.
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Jeff, could you post a pic?
a little hard to see with a picture, but here is an idea
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>:D Tim, It's against the law to give away your first bow. Sorry chap you're going to have to make another. :laugh:
I agree!!!
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Filedthe edges of the skins tonight and removed scales sanded the edges and gave that BL a coat of tung oil. Man o man did that fume job pop after that I can only imagine what it will look like after 10 coats. I wanted to post a pic of it after one coat but I want to wait until it's finished.
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OK guys time to help a brother out. I had started this one awhile ago and I'm trying to come up with a plan to get her tillered out. Right now it's 30#@16". The bow had spun with the lower limb (left side) coming out toward me a little. Brace is even at this point. Upper limb is about an inch and a half longer. Im posting pictures of the original rough out along with a current unbraced profile. It really hasn't taken any set..just holding its original wonky shape :P. I'm thinking I may try and heat treat/steam the lower limb just to get it on a more even plane with the upper limb and continue tillering. Because of the lower limbs position it has ended up much thicker then the upper so i feel like if i can get them more on the same plane the limbs will balance out both in tiller and thickness. Just wondering what you guys think.
(http://i.imgur.com/ArgPgz9.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/PStCkqa.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/BffM1CL.jpg?1)
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(http://i.imgur.com/1tfUXdY.jpg?1)
Current Brace as well
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WOW, Tim, that is impressive for your first bow. Yeah, you should hang on to that one.
I've been really busy lately but did get some work done on my bow Sunday. Got it to full brace and almost full draw. BUT, one limb is looking questionable. Got to work with it a bit more and see if it's going to make the grade. The bottom limb that had a wee bit of propeller twist got a bit too thin at one point. Might still be OK but not sure. I did shoot about 30 arrows Sunday at 2/3 draw. The jury is out.
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That right limb looks pretty good the left looks to me like it wants to hinge in the humpy part. But the brace pic looks good. I would heat it and try to straight the left limb to match the right if it was mine but maybe these more experienced guys can help more than me.
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I may try and straighten it out but I like that natural wiggle a little. I just want to get the limbs to round out. If the left limbs was like the right this would have been way to easy!!! But then where would the fun be in that?!
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Hey ajooter - how about a unbraced side profile pic while it is on the tree in the same orientation as the pic you posted?
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(http://i.imgur.com/4ae69wB.jpg?1)
Here ya go...easier to see from this viewing suppose. No real set yet. Just a lot of wonky :P
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ajooter, my tillering eyes aren't worth a damn working with differences on wonky staves. I'm going to be asking for help on that sinew backed walnut I've been working on. How's the bow feel when you're shooting it? Looks to me like the left limb need a few shavings off the lower 1/3rd.
Here's my osage pulled to 24. I've got a little weight remaining to play with and will most likely hit weight but need to scrape some more off the bottom mid limb.
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Haven't shot it fred...about a 5" Brace. I need to reduce the weight some more before I start yarning her back. But if I'm going to try and bring that one limb back on the same plane as the other that will certainly change the tiller. I was going to steam around 3/4 of the limb and try bringing back some.
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I know nothing about steaming. Maybe Rich will chime in.
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I agree with your tiller assessment on your bow. That's looking great.
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I've had a week of hard work and decided since I'm seriously tired that this would be a good time to do a little check in.
I'm a bit rash sometimes. Tactfulness is not my strongest character trait.
I'm going to call some of you on the carpet tonight.
Here's who I want to hear from in alphabetical order: What's going on?
David Ewing
Kid Bow
pincushion
Ranasp
Ryan C
ty-in-ND
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(http://i.imgur.com/ZNSdENi.jpg?1)
This is what I think I'm gonna try. Steam that kink out of the bottom limb and sewer what remains with the flip in the tip and try and match it on the upper limb. Only problem being that there is a knot on the belly side of the top limb that will most likely give me trouble flipping that tip. I'll try and post a pocket later.
Too many variable here...I'm going to squeeze a bow out of this piece of wood one way or another!
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I like your idea and determination
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Hey Ajooter, nothing ventured, nothing gained. Go for it. You may have to do it in several steps. Keep us posted.
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That's a tough one Ajooter. Hoping for the best.
Nothing to show new for the trade here. Still waiting for Plan C wood to dry. Losing 15g/day at this point on about 1800 total in the blank. Might be another week or so.
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(http://i.imgur.com/H83JHoX.jpg?1)
This is the top limb...I don't think I'm going to be able to flip this tip.
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How wide is the limb if you took the knot out.
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Been 10 days sense my shaving horse broke for the 3rd time. It is now fire wood. Here's my new bow making table/tillering table. I still have to fix a rope and pulley system to tiller with. I'm ready to go pick out another stave to start for a plan B part 2.
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(http://i.imgur.com/6iis6iG.jpg1)
(http://i.imgur.com/udWvtnY.jpg?1)
I posted a pic with and without my doodles. Doesn't look bad in the hand...this changes my opinion on a tillering tree a little. The tip isn't quite wide enough to eliminate the knot altogether I don't think. I think if I can get that outer third and inner third a little I might be able to get this girl shooting.
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That walnut is looking good Fred! Ajooter just my two cents but I would just leave it and keep going...wonky is good character and I don't think it will hurt performance-Hammertime
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You think like I do hammer thanks for that.
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I am looking for opinions on the tiller on this black locust. If it turns out, it will be my shortest bow at 56 inches ttt. In the picture below it is drawn to 24 inches and I want the handle to work. Currently when I draw it in my hand I can just start to feel movement in the handle. I need to draw another 3 to 4 inches on this bow. Any advice on where to scrape a little?
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/07E97105-4E57-4CEA-BF53-863388C63284_zpstekadgfy.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/07E97105-4E57-4CEA-BF53-863388C63284_zpstekadgfy.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/68337EC0-5ABA-47D6-AA7B-660F92868640_zpsr8s6s1wq.jpg)[/[URL=http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/85A4A713-C97E-47A6-82F6-A3F8EE424282_zpsnaravghz.jpg.html](http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/85A4A713-C97E-47A6-82F6-A3F8EE424282_zpsnaravghz.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/68337EC0-5ABA-47D6-AA7B-660F92868640_zpsr8s6s1wq.jpg.html)
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Ajooter -
I just got home and on my computer so just now seeing the pic I asked you to post. That helps seeing that limb unbraced. I am certainly not an expert ...but I agree with your last post with you drawing it in hand. The tiller on the tree actually doesn't look bad to my eye. It needs to bend a little past the deflex in the left limb. If I was working on it, I would probably rely a lot on my vertical line on my tillering tree. I would hook onto the string where I would place my middle finger when I draw and then tiller to pull the hook straight down the vertical line. If it pulls to one side of the line, that is the stronger limb. I would work that limb accordingly. Good Luck!
Fred - osage is looking good.
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Here is my (un)twisting rig. I have a wooden wrench with arms that extend beyond the sides of the limb to prevent any denting. A gallon of water is attached to the end of the lever, and propped up from below to prevent the limb from reflexing instead of twisting. The foil covers a wet rag which is heated with the heat gun until the weight of the water is enough to cause the whole thing to twist. The bucket below stops the twist from going too far. Right now the whole bow is clamped to my work bench so that it doesn't retwist as it dries back out.
In between heatings I have been knapping. I think I am starting to get the hang of it. These don't compare to the real masters on the knapping forum, but they are starting to get thinner (.25") and my flakes are traveling further and I am starting to get the beginnings of some parallel scar patterns.
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Swampman you've got that BL looking good. Maybe a few scrapes in each fade then finish it off with some scrapes at the tips should get your 3-4 inches. Man that bow will be a screamer. Did you toast the belly?
JeffP51 I like your set up you got there. And them points are looking good! Rawhide will be in the mail after I get off work today.
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Thanks gut. It is great to get a second opinion. I was going to go ahead and finish up last night but decided to slow down and get some help on here. Any mistakes now and the bow will come in under weight.
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ajooter, I don't think you can make it using the drawing board with that bow. You more or less have to just feel it. It's never going to look even on paper with that wonky bottom limb.
Swampman, that's coming around nicely but doesn't look like you'te getting any bend in the handle
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Thanks Fred. I was thinking the same thing. On the tillering tree it doesn't look like the handle is working. In my hand I can feel just a hair of movement. That is what I will work on. That may give me the next couple of inches needed.
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By the way Fred, this is my first bendy handle bow so your help is appreciated. I guess I need the handle to be bendy right ;D ;D
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That things coming around swampman...you can use a straight edge measuring across from limb to limb just outside your fades to determine handle bend.
Jeff that bow looks like it's getting there. Those points are killer!
Thanks for all the advice guys!
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Swampman, don't get too carried away with the handle area. You can drop weight really fast.
Patrick
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Hey swampman,
If you need to work on the "creeping" the bend into the grip area some more, my advice would be to do it by feel (you can check with a straight edge if you want). That way you wind up with exactly the feel you want w/o taking too much wood. So brace your bow, a couple small/light scrapes and draw the bow....repeat as necessary.
I admire the amount of bend you got going on but realize you are down to the short strokes now.....a little wood removal makes BIG differences.
rich
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Thanks everyone for the feedback. It is very much appreciated. This is why I stopped where I was. I wanted to come up with a plan that won't wreck what I have so far.
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Here's #1 already sanded 60, 100, 220, 320 grit. The belly fractures that I created when bending the tips closed up nicely but remain noticeable. It has a a very slight twist top limb tip but I'm going to leave it as is. Now ready to add tip overlays, build up the handle, apply arrow rests, wrap the grip and finish.
61" NTN, 50#@28. Hit it right on the nose so no more messing around with this one and on to #2.
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Man Fred, That bend profile is as pretty as it gets sir 8) 8) 8) If ya ever make one for midgets, keep the old guy in mind >:D
rich
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Sweet rig Fred, very sweet.
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Rich and PD, thank you or the encouraging words. Might be the best shooter I've made so far and if not it's right up there with a couple others.
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Fred is that bending in the handle? It looks really nice--but I will remind you I have a 29" draw, so you are going to have to work it just a little more. . . ::)
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Oh how wrong Mr. Jeff.....he's already 3" over my 25" >:D
rich
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Nice bend fred...that came out great !
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Just bending faintly at full draw.
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Fred, that does look really nice. Let me know if you misplaced my address. :laugh:
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Fred I can shoot 28" draw as long as it's a Lefty. Man that's a very nice bow.
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Fred, that does look really nice. Let me know if you misplaced my address. :laugh:
+1
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I know we are not supposed to know who is making us a bow bit fred said that one is mine! ;)...so quit hassling him haha
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8) Well I'll tell you this much!!!! My recipient hasn't participated much lately and if they don't finish a bow to send out then this one will go to someone else. >:D
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Fred - if you need me to drive over and pick up my bow just let me know! :laugh: You have a nice bend on it for sure.
Swamp - no new advice needed from me, you already got all you need - it is looking great.
Jeff - those heads look really good to me!
Haven't worked on bows nor been shooting for the past week! Between fighting off a cold and school it just hasn't happened.
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(http://i.imgur.com/6jmPDBs.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/aytuFTv.jpg?1)
Well... got some more weight off her and brought the lower limb around a little more. Had a little pint knot show up on the side of the upper limb. It's so small I'll probably just fill it with super glue. I'm going to clean all my tool marks up and start really slowing down. I'm gonna creep up about 2# shy of my draw weight and sand her to completion.
Then it's time to make her all Purdy!
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Progress has been a bit slow of late. First I needed to dry the hawthorn beds for the riser as they were still a little green that took a week; incidentally I had transcribed my marks incorrectly the first time and the originals were 1/2" too short.... The new beds are 3 and 1/4" but the proper one will have 4" beds. After drying and cutting in new joints and shaping the new beds I found I couldn't clamp them up, the dry run clamped up fine but cascamite is really slippery and the clamps wouldn't hold. Good job it's strong and gap filling as the glue line is horrible.
Next drill and fix the brass Alan bolt receivers. Tried to do this without keying the brass and it nearly held but not quite, so now I've cut slots all over them the two part epoxy will have something to grab hold of. Will up date you all if this works on the weekend, if it doesn't I'll drill a locking key in from the side to give a mechanical advantage to the fixing. Picture shows progress and two receivers waiting for glue
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/03/image2.jpeg)
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That's cool mud. I've been working on a takedown myself ;)
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Stuck that riser is looking good so far. Can't wait to see more pics.
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Plan A Done
Black Locus
Tip overlays are wood from Africa a friend that builds wooden hats gave me. (smells like coffee when cutting)
Skins are copper heads from around the house.
Leather grip sewed on with Dacron
62" ntn
Bendy handle thanks Rich for walking me through it. 1st One
Put 2 1/2" reflex in it with a nice toasted bellys, bow held 1 1/4 of its reflex
I fumed this bow for 10 days then 10 coats of tung oil topped off with Helmsmans Satin clear spray.
50lb @ £>" can't reviel the draw.
This bow is center shot off the hand.
I've shot this bow about 50 times has a smooth Draw and seems to be pretty fast. No hand shock.
Lauren built the Dacron String she calls it Lemon-Lime.
I have had a fun and challenging time building this bow. I hope my Victom enjoys it.
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More pics
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Gut...men that sure looks nice...can we see her bow ?
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Beautiful bow Gut, and great bend as well.
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You guys should be very proud, there have been some excellent bows coming out of this trade!
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More pics
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Beautiful bow Gut, and great bend as well.
&1
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Great looking bow Gut. That looks great.
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Damned Gutshot....what a beautiful bend and a lot of it too !!!! when you get string angles at and beyond 90 degrees for a self bow ya done better than good.....just super sir.
By the way...your attention to detail is obvious to anybody who sees that bow.....man, be real proud of that.
rich
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Excellent job Gut. That is a fine looking bow and has character.
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that's a pretty bow right there - for sure. Excellent work on the one Gutshot!
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Ajooter....looks like you have it coming your way. Nothing like a wonky limb to make you slow down.
Gutshot..... fine looking bow. Hope ya didn't lose my address. ;)
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Man Fred and Gut. them some nice lookin' bows. I'd be proud to have either one of them. I've been in Oklahoma city yesterday and today took the kids to the zoo but I'll be getting home in about an hour and as soon as I get there I'm getting out in the shop to work on plan B.
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Well Gut if Fred forgot to give ya my address its... That is one bad a&$ stik sir. Love everything about it.
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Paul - that is very nice looking bow - would love to put some arrows through it -- maybe it will happen :laugh: :laugh:
ajooter - bow is looking good to me - how far are you pulling it back in the pic?
Mud - curious to see your plan on your take down. Are you using laminated limbs?
Mitch
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I think it was about 20"...maybe 22"
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Your getting close then! I am liking it. Outer 1/3 look like they could bend just a bit more to me. As you said, creeping up on to full draw is a good idea.
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This stave started with 0 reflex so I may heat treat a little bit into both limbs to give her a little more pep.
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Hey guys I need some help! I have a erc stave 1 3/8" wide. Bendy handle. What thickness should I start with a the handle?
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I have never worked ERC but I'm sure length of stave and draw weight has a huge bearing on starting thickness.
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TR - are you asking because you are roughing out the stave bow dimensions? Being a bendy handle, I wouldn't worry about it too much, just keep it thicker than the limbs with a gradual taper to the limbs. But what do I know - I not a bendy handle expert!! :laugh: Rich will probably chime in with good advice.
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Wow Gutshot, that is a beauty!
I have started on the dogwood. I am in the process of roughing it down with a hatchet. What looked to be pipe straight and knot free is revealing some hidden gems.
It has a slight curve, a handful of knots appeared in one limb, and I noticed a deep check on the other limb. I hope the knots disappear as I remove more wood, and I may be able to miss the check with layout.
This dogwood is sure some tough, hard wood. I stopped chopping as I was getting a blister. Will get back on it tomorrow.
Here are some pics of the stave roughing and the polish you can get on a blade with some japanese waterstones... and hours of sharpening :)
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Loope, that's a a nice looking blade and I'm partial to some particular draw knives. ;) You want to do some barter?
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heard a little tick in my osage stave while tillering tonight. . .
Maybe it was nothing, but I hope I am not going to be in the market for a new plan B piece of wood.
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Hi Mitch,
Not planning anything just wingin it. Started off with a hazel hollow limb lever arm bow, wanted a 2part take-down. Sawed it in half but the joint I tried was all wrong so was forced to try something else, three versions of a riser later and I'm still learning lots but then I found Royal Mail max length package is 3 feet which gives max two-part take down length of 54". Three part is probably the best way forward but still want to find a way of making a two-parter......
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Still learning :( glue held, cherry failed as I strung her, suspect the bow may be a long way over target weight but now I've got to season some iron wood so may not be posting for a couple a weeks. Anyone know how to clean araldite off brass?(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/03/image3.jpeg)
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Stuck I've cleaned Brass before by soaking it in coke-a-cola. Don't know what they put in coke but man it makes brass shiny
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I'm going to attempt a three-piece takedown myself gut. Bingham Archery sells some nice hardware for the limb locking system. They have a couple different styles too. I would post the link but I don't think I'm supposed to.
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Hey Stuck....You might be better off if you laminate a block with multiple layer and then carve that out into a riser.....I think thats why the commercial glass bows are made that way (look good but are also stronger than a monolithic block of wood). An alternative would be to use a piece of metal or phonelic resin to greatly reinforce the attachment area over the broadest possible area.
Jeff, hopefully that "tick" was a small sliver trying to lift on one of the edges....if so ya might be able to fix it.....would it be possible for you to take a pic after ya find it?
rich
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Very, very unsafe stuckinthemud, but I think a few dozen folks told you that some weeks ago. Its never a good idea to cut corners on multiple piece bows. Somebodies face/head is at risk. That other limb will break off with little effort as well.
ajooter, they sell the whole kit for $15-18. I used it. Works properly and is safe. An I-beam riser that will never break is as easy as gluing 3 boards together.
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I'm working on finishing one limb and then maybe the side of the riser I'm going to use. My riser is one solid piece of hickory at this point. I will post pictures soon on my progress.
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Yup, your right, they did, but I always gotta learn the hard way - me and electric fences - I did touch a metal wheelbarrow to one once just because I was told not too and boy it gives you a kick behind the knees!. The only reason I never licked a metal post in the winter was because I licked ice straight from the freezer instead >:D
Glue lams are really strong, that's true but I don't like the way they look, and I have no machinery, not even a belt sander, and hand-prepping that many faying surfaces does not appeal.
The 40 year old riser on my fibre-glass-and-wood recurve is made of a single piece of mahogany with glued-in brass receivers, so a nice beefy piece of iron-wood with a re-think about the handle/bed junction based on that system is next up (with 4" beds!). If that doesn't cut-it then an I-beam sounds good. Any pictures of two and three part bows would be really helpful at this point. :)
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Good luck and wear goggles.
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Need both, that's for sure, still not certain how I survived so long, think I make my angels to work overtime, must be the power of prayer! :D
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luck favors the brave stuck - your not alone in your 'i have to try it my way first' mentality. I've got a few scars to prove it myself.
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Jeff, hopefully that "tick" was a small sliver trying to lift on one of the edges....if so ya might be able to fix it.....would it be possible for you to take a pic after ya find it?
rich
I may have found it last night, but I already smoothed it out. It will be a bit before I pull on this without a little cringe. I am trying to even up the bend before I pull it further. I haven't pulled it past 35# yet.
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Where was the tick coming from jeff? The last hickory bowing made had some of the cambium let loose and that sound just about made me puke on my shoes! I know just where you are coming from.
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The possible crack I found was on a corner about 3 inches up from the fade. It hasn't done it again--yet. I have it at low brace now, but I still haven't pulled to full weight--40# The little waves and character are proving to be a bit of a challenge. I will put up a pic or two here in a bit.
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Sorry for the radio silence, seemed to me that I wasn't making any decent progress since every time I'd start to get in the groove after work I'd hear things like "When are we going to eat?", "Weren't we going to go out and do some errands?" and "Are you going to sleep tonight?" ;)
FINALLY though, I think I've had a breakthrough. Mental more than anything else. I was getting pretty discouraged and waffling on whether or not I was mucking up the entire thing, when something clicked and I found out how to properly manipulate the draw knife in a way that seems to work for me, and how to manipulate it around knots. It might seem like a small thing, but I'm used to being adept at the tools I use and it was frustrating to scrape a certain way and have the wood react in a way that made no sense to me.
Last night I definitively hit heartwood AND figured out how to shave off around a knot. The one pictured is close to the center and near the end of the limb, so I knew I didn't want to mess that one up. I'm pretty happy with how it cleaned up! The pictures are a before/after of the same area
Side note, I'm not sure if you can see, but off to the right side are some "ripples", they showed up as I was using a two-handed scraper thing. I didn't like that happening, so I pulled out my folding knife and just scraped away with that, which seems to work a lot better for me. Any tips on preventing those marks? I'm probably just not using the scraper correctly.
I just want to say, thanks for adding me to this make a long, I probably would have never made an attempt at making my first bow and learning so much in the process. I realize that I'm slow as a glacier here, so if you want to knock me out of the trade I'll be fine with that, I came into the game late as it is and I don't want to hold up anyone. I'm just glad to have learned as much as I have and I'll definitely be stalking this thread and continuing to work on this bow!
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Your getting there Ranasp just keep at it a little at a time. I believe this trade is going till august so dont the give up yet. Keep posting progress pictures and we can walk ya right through making a great first bow!
Looks like you got chasing a ring down. I use my draw knife to get the bulk off and then finish with a scraper and knife as you mentioned. Next is layout. If your stave is completely seasoned make sure your ends stay sealed otherwise it will check on ya.
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Excellent Ranasp....looks like you have a real good handle on that ring clean up thing 8) 8). There are a couple things on scrapers....usually when I get chatter marks it's from scraping perpendicular to the grain If you hold the scraper at an angle to the grain (like a snow plow) you will usually get a smooth, clean cut......you can also clean up "chatter" by scraping over that on an angle.......mostly it's like what you found with the draw knife...where experience will let you use it in a way that makes sense to you.
Scrapes are also a bugger to "sharpen" and are subject to being "warped" in use by too much thumb pressure......just saying that because some of my favorite scrapers are kitchen and bread knives for the thrift store for 50 cents each 8)
I'm sure that more communication from you will help you a bunch more, personally I'm, glad you are in and learning from the experience....cant speak for anyone but myself but I'm glad you are part of it.....please remember that everybody in this trade is good people and happy to help if they can. Keep us informed please.....the first one is always a bugger and they do get easier
rich
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Oh don't worry, I'll be asking a multitude of questions when it comes to laying out the bow, especially since there's a definite twist to it. Once I've cleaned up the entire length (hopefully not long now!) I'll post pics of the twist.
And wait ajooter, it will check if it IS seasoned? I'll rub some beeswax on the ends, will that help?
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If the ends are sealed your fine. I use paint or glue. If during your layout to need to saw a chunk off one end make sure your reseal it. I had trouble with a stave a couple years ago that checked after I did that so now I always reseal no matter what. May not be necessary but gives me piece of mind.
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Alright, good to know. The log came with the ends sealed, but I chopped off an inch or so to get a look at the rings. I have a few pounds of beeswax so it won't hurt me any to put some on there.
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Ok, I spent most of the day so far trying to even out limbs. I am at my target weight (50lbs @28"). It isn't perfect, but it also hasn't blown up, so that is a win as far as I am concerned. the top limb is on the left, and it is the one with a small knot hole in it about 4 inches up from the fade. Any comments for tweaking it at this point are welcome.
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I think it looks great jeff...can you get a shot of it being drawn in hand?
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Tweeks? Man if you keep tweekin somebody ought to slap yer patties >:D >:D Looks real good Jeff
rich
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how's this? It has taken some set in places I don't really like since I took the side profile picture, but not more than I can live with. I think it is time to shoot it as much as possible to make sure it is safe.
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All the bows I've seen you guys doing lately look great! :)
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Looks great man shoot her in!
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But get that elbow down! >:D
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Fred,
I am going to hang on to that draw knife, it was a Christmas present this year from my parents, so it seems special :) I only have two, both were presents from my parents. I need to start picking up some more myself. It takes a while to sharpen, but I am really loving using a sharp draw knife.
Michael
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Jeff, that looks real good. Have fun shooting it in. That is one of my favorite parts of bow making.
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I did some more work on my plan b black locust. It is 56 inches tip to tip. Here it is at full draw. It is right at 50 pounds at 28 inches. I put about 50 shots through it so far. This is my shortest bow I have ever made. I really like shooting this one.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/6F7F5A69-C8F2-477F-A80A-663C2BB41BDC_zpsbibdkmmj.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/6F7F5A69-C8F2-477F-A80A-663C2BB41BDC_zpsbibdkmmj.jpg.html)
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I have another bow I have been working on. This one is white ash. I haven't had the best luck with white ash, but this one shoots hard. It is the last stave from the very first tree I harvested for staves. It pulls 52 pounds at 28 inches. I would like feedback on the tiller. It has a little string follow but not too bad (at least for white ash). I don't think this is in the running for my trade bow but thought I would show all of you another one I have been working on.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/0988848B-918C-4E1D-912C-EAC3AF7995B8_zpsduvhqbmp.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/0988848B-918C-4E1D-912C-EAC3AF7995B8_zpsduvhqbmp.jpg.html)
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Man swamp....they both look good...I really like that locust! I bet it shoots hard....that's some serious bend there brother!!
How many guys are you making bows for?! :P
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Ajooter, the locust does shoot hard. I really like it too. It feels like there is hardly any wood, it is so light.
One of these bows is going to a co-worker of mine and another for the trade. I can always use another too.
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Swampy, I really like that BL!
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Jeff your bow is looking good
Swamp man that BL is bending nicely
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Some seriously sweet looking bow everyone....I would take any of them-hammertime
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Yeah swampman both those stix look great. That BL shorty looks like a rocket launcher.
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ok sorry for lousy pic...but a quick update....the 3 bows I am working on. Top hickory static curve(been fighting a twist on this one) Middle Elvish painted Elm(almost done with this one) Bottom hhb (bull snake on back).The ERC and character Elm are on hold for know-Hammertime(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/912dacb5-ae4c-40af-8735-770b60f560fb_zpspfmaj1o8.jpg)
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Damn Hammer.....any of those 3 are some serious nice looking sir. Is there some sort of carved tips on the static....they look especially cool from what I can see.
rich
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Thanks Rich...The tips are just hickory overlays, I had such trouble with the one tip I glued a small piece to the side it was tracking off of and now it lines up perfect.. will do some better pics and full draws soon-Hammertime
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That's getting it done hammer! I've been busy at work lately and haven't been able to get after it like I would like to.
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All 3 of those bows look great Hammer.
I spent today shooting the 3 bows I have tillerred out. I enjoy shooting all of them but my plan a black locust seems to be the one. There is just one issue with this bow I don't like. There is a drying check that ended up in one fade. I saw it before I ever started on the bow bu I thought it would disappear as I remove wood. The check is only cosmetic but it does not make me happy. I would like opinions from people on here how they would feel about receiving a bow with this check on it.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/E8CFAC7B-0034-44E0-AE28-3B83CAF4FD80_zpsi7pnotxw.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/E8CFAC7B-0034-44E0-AE28-3B83CAF4FD80_zpsi7pnotxw.jpg.html)
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just about every bow I have made has a check in it somewhere. it seems like just a part of self bows. put superglue in it and don't think any more about it. If that is otherwise the best bow, send it. It won't bother me when it gets here.
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That check is in the back correct? I don't think it will amount to much...it does favor the one side of the handle a little bit...you could always rawhide back it if you wanted to. Ultimately most likely just cosmetic....and unique...which makes these bows so cool. 8)
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Oh yeah...I would take it
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Thanks Jeff.
Ajooter, this is in the BL. I have made 2 BL bows and this was the first I worked on. It is backed with rawhide.
Thanks.
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Hammer let's see a pic of that bull snake on that bow. There all looking good.
Swamp man that check don't bother me.
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It's been there since the beginning? it aint gonna be a problem at all....I would call it a "wood feature"......you got my address , right?
rich
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I wouldn't worry about that check at all. I like little 'oddities' in the wood, gives it some spunk.
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Thanks for the feedback everyone. I will finish this bow up and put it in my possible pile. The check was there from the beginning. This was a belly split so that is why the check was there. I may be able to scrape it out as it is in the fade and it looks to be in a non bending part. I know I am close to getting rid of it as part of it disappeared while tillering. I just don't want to mess the tiller up or loose any weight. I will think on it a little bit.
I have a couple other possible pieces of BL. Maybe I will see what I can get them to do. All of these stave are from the same tree and they seem like exceptional wood.
I at least have pressure off now as I know I have one great shooter to send (actually 2 as my bendy handle BL is a close second)
Mike
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Swamp, i would take it anyday, check or no check. Hammer , thats the trifecta of bada&& bows
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That itty-bitty check don't hurt nothing. I always like a little character.
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Bows are looking great. I wouldn't worry about the belly checks either. Compression side can probably handle it.
I've had another busy weekend with family visiting and want to thank all of you for keeping this going strong.
Ranasp, thank you for posting!!!
Here's number 3 with a late developing problem. Great looking osage stave that I ran into a wind check 2 layers deep. Not enough belly remaining to take 2 rings off so this one might be scrap. Already injected loctite 420 and clamped but it doesn't want to close up. I'm going to finish it to floor tiller and then wear a helmet before putting it to the string.
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Just for fun thought I'd post my take-down evolutionary ladder , top rung is(hopefully) the proper one and three below the practice pieces. Bottom is too small, wrong timber; next up timber too soft and th bolts deeply compressed the pine, next wrong timber, beds too short, grain oriented across riser instead of vertically led to failure, top is hopefully gonna be ok with 4 inch beds, proper grain direction and strong enough wood. Right is my commercial riser as proof of concept(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/03/image4.jpeg)
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I'm working on a takedown too mud....gotta get my hardware and I'll post some pictures of the limb when it's mounted. Gonna mount one limb and test it first before I go through with making the second.
I think your latest will work just fine. I like that it still looks like a self bow too!
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Here s a pic of the bull snake gutshot(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/85bf27ea-8d78-47ea-84c9-f5256545e74e_zpscqm3cokh.jpg)
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Hammer, that is one great looking bow. I like the bull snake.
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Very nicely done sir. 8)
rich
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First off that bill snake skin is awesome!! Haven't got my hands on any skins yet...they sure do dress a bow up!!
Here's where I'm at...2"shy of full draw at my target weight. Bottom limb still looks stiff coming out of the fade so I'll work on that a little bit. That lower limb has been quite challenging for sure. Both limbs have taken a little set so I will probably do an even heat treatment over both limbs and then retiller.
(http://i.imgur.com/f7UYo22.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/T9REaee.jpg?1)
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Hammer that is the first time I've seen a bull snake and I got to say it looks awesome on that bow.
Ajooter bow is getting close looks like you are about to take that thing.
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I'll hopefully be letting you know about that string shortly Gut? >:D
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Got a few mintues to do some stuff to my one of my staves - took my carving ax to it and got the stave down to a uniformish 1" thick. Its sitting at 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 wide, 1 inch thick, and it just barely flexes right now. Going to leave it be till the weekend while I get some wood together for a caul, then I'm going to strap it down and try to even out the reflex some with a little dry heat.
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Lookin good sid...I'm digging that carving axe!
You may want to reduce your belly a little closer to bow dimensions before you put it on a caul. You can still leave it wide, but depending on what kind of profile your making and final draw weight you should be able to take it down to a uniform half inch over the length of the limbs. It will take ton heat bending much nicer for ya.
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I was thinking the same thing after I got it thinned out. I am wondering now though if maybe I'm jumping the gun a bit? I don't think that stave is fully dry yet, I don't have a moisture meter, but I'm going to get one this week. If I reduce it down closer to floor tiller, and it's still damp, and I go to heating it up, is it likely to check more? I was thinking that if I took it down to floor tiller, it would dry out a lot faster, especially here in Bama. I'm pretty sure that Mom Nature is about to set the thermostat on 80+ here real soon.
I am going to finish chasing the ring on my other (seasoned) stave, hopefully soon, maybe by the end on the weekend. I will get it roughed out as well and get some pics of it so we can figure out what corrections it's going to need.
That carving ax is a custom, I ordered it over the Christmas holiday. Cost me $120 (my whole Christmas budget for me, but I needed a good ax). It took a little longer to get it than I liked, but the guy fell and broke a couple ribs, so I can't exactly fault him for that, I was just being impatient. But, it's a Plumb riggers ax that he re-profiled and reshaped, and then rehung on a great handle. It is crazy/scary sharp, and holds an edge well to, I shaved my arm with it AFTER I cut down that stave. Here are some pics of it.
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Beautiful...what's the make on the axe?
If you reduce it down and then weight it every couple days you will be able to see it lose moisture. A lot of these guys can tell how dry it is just by the way you take shavings or make dust. Fred or Rich will be able to tell ya. I think it can check on ya if you heat treat it too early. Just make sure the back and ends are sealed up really good. I just use Elmer's glue.
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ajooter -> that is a vintage Plumb riggers axe head, but it's been modified heavily. Craig (the guy I bought it from) cut out the bottom to allow for my hand to be up close to the head. He also cut and flattened a couple of small flat areas in the head on top and in the hand hold area to allow me to use a ferro rod/striker when I carry that sucker out with me to harvest staves. I like to carry a little wood stove with me when I'm out there and make lunch, and I like having fire starting options ;)
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Again , everyones work is lookin great. Hammer those skins are saweeet! Got plan 3 heat treated and reflexed the other day than had a bit of a health scare. Sunday at work started havin crazy chest pains and got super dizzy, called the zoo's medic and my blood pressure was 177/111. They shipped me to the hospital, ran a bunch of tests and 3 hrs later said "your good" . Dont know what brought it on, but have been takin it easy for a few days. Feel fine now, see the doc tomorrow and hopefully get to work on a bow this weekend. I'm 43 and in ok shape but realise its time to buck up.
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Energy drink drinker?
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Never had an energy drink . Coffee and water an occasional Dew from time to time. I dont eat the best and my exercise regimen gets spotty . I think it was a wake up call.
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Thanks all the bull snake came from a friend in south Dakota....cool axe! -Hammer time
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I'll hopefully be letting you know about that string shortly Gut? >:D
Just shoot me a PM on length nock to nock and colors. I will have more colors after the ninth of April
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Sid that axe mod is pretty cool! Good to see your stave coming along.
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To catch everybody up on what I'm doing now. Since I've got my trade bow finished. I've started a maple bow for myself. It's going to be 56" ntn. I've done a pyramid style with rigid handle. In the fades I've sanded in a small backbone for looks. I'm heat treating the belly on a caul to give it about 2 1/2" of reflex. Shooting for a 26" draw @ 55lb. Wanting to try to get this done. Before the classic. I'm going to try to go down there. Ok I've also picked up some seasoned Osage and I'm going to get started on a plan B for the trade. Just in case something happens to the BL. I'm going to attempt the self knocks and forward handle again but this time I'm going to leave plenty of meat on the belly side of the handle. I'm looking forward to see if I fail again or make a bow this time.
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Just to also catch youall up on where I am -- currently tillering a 68" black birch pyramid bow, which would be Plan C for me. Plan B black birch Sudbury stye shorty continues to shoot well, couple hundred arrows now, 60" ttt @ 50 lb. Does stack a little, and maintains the 1-1/4" string follow. I want to see how Plan C performs before making a decision for my recipient.
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Man you fellas are a whole bunch of bow buildin dudes for sure....I cant wait to see all the goodies. Want to thank all of you for keeping the posts and info flowing....
Every day that goes by I'm more glad to be a part of this trade and to get to know all of ya.
rich
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Well said Rich! I agree. Everybody's doing great.
Thought I might update also. I cut off the pin nocks on the ironwood bow, put some walnut tip overlays on her, a grass string handle, and some walnut stain. I'll be making a new string for it soon, and then shooting it as much as possible. I'll try and post a pic or 2 soon.
Tattoo Dave
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Been a fun experience rich...and the rides not over yet!
Can't wait to see that ironwood bow Dave.
I'm hoping to get my tillering and heat treating finished up this weekend. Then the really fun part starts...making this bow Purdy! I have a lot of nice overlay and handle lam materials to work with. I just want my guy to open that package and be like... :o ;D
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I've been "out of the loop" for a few days and have gotten way behind on this tread......doesn't take long.
Sidmand, nice hatchet. That should be a fine bow tool.
My trade bow has a thin spot on the lower limb and is bending more than it should. I'm just not happy with it at this point. I have a really nice hickory billet ready to go and will start another bow later today. I've shot in my "A bow" about 60 times at 3/4 draw but not sure I can adjust the tiller and maintain the weight I need. I'll try to get caught up with "Plan B" quickly.
Here's what I did yesterday with a couple of friends. These black locust staves and billets are my share of the day's work......bark removed and sealed with shellac. Bows for the future.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Locust%20Staves_zpsmyfyq70w.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Locust%20Staves_zpsmyfyq70w.jpg.html)
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Those are beauties drew! Hope it works out with your plan a...but it's always fun working on a b >:D
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I've been a bit preoccupied and lax lately myself. Too many unexpected events and visitors the passed few weeks.
Some of you have sent me PM's regarding your victims lack of participation and other questions regarding if and when it is OK to ship your bows. I'll try to get a list up of those who are OK to ship.
I'm a little concerned about a few of the entrants and will be trying to contact them in the next few days. I think you guys pretty much know whether or not your victim is doing the job of fulfilling their commitment.
We will be having another drawing this weekend. The winner will get their choice between either billets or a few tools we have remaining.
Thanks for all of your enthusiasm and help in keeping this going. >>------> Fred
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got a question folks: I am still toying with the idea of sinewing my trade bow. HOWEVER, I've not done sinew before, and I would like to ask a few questions to see if it's worth the trouble/time:
- how much does humidity affects sinew?
- I live in Alabama, which has fairly high humidity, and if I sinew the trade bow, is the high-ish humidity going to affect the drying time of the sinew?
- How long does it take to really get good dry sinew?
- I'm thinking about using backstrap sinew (I have some backstrap and leg), and I think I have enough, but if I had to use both, is that OK?
- does the sinew need to be covered with a skin or thin rawhide or something after? I would like to keep the bow as simple and primitive as possible, but if it needs to be covered, I will need to get some skins or hide
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I believe there's a lot of bad rumors going around about sinew and it's tendency to absorb excess humidity.
There are some areas of the world/ country where sinew is not feasible but being it was used extensively by Native Americans I doubt that sinew is affected as drastically as rumors have it.
As long as the bow is sealed properly and stored in a controlled environment IMO you will suffer no adverse reaction. I live in Nebraska and our relative humidity is generally high. My bows haven't suffered but I don't shoot them in extremely damp or adverse conditions.
My sinewed bows will generally dry in 4 to 6 weeks.
Mixing sinews is fine but I would try to use layers of the same.
The sinew doesn't have to be covered. Most people do it for a little more moisture protection and a smoother back surface.
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Well I shot the heck out of my BL plan a bow the other night. I shot it for about 90 minutes straight (probably 200 shots) and when I unstrung it, the bow went right back to the profile it had before I shot it. I think it is the best shooting bow I have ever made. At 49 pounds it is not the heaviest draw but I think it is the best shooting. It hits right where I am looking every time. For now this bow is being set aside to send to my victim (unless I come up with something better).
Mike
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(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/686F5F99-9ADB-4D0A-AFCA-36F2D6F997ED_zpsfr3v1tat.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/686F5F99-9ADB-4D0A-AFCA-36F2D6F997ED_zpsfr3v1tat.jpg.html) my bow is ready for first bracing. It's looking great and holding all the reflex I put in.
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thanks for the replies Fred! going to reduce that stave down a touch more this weekend, if I get some time, and I'm going to start processing some of the sinew. Will post pictures soon.
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Got plan 3 tillered out to 20" today and decided to steam in some big hooks. I just cant help myself with flipped tips, they look so cool and a lot of performance. Plus this one might come in a lil under weight so the hooks should help.
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Nice Curves!
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Look'n good stix.............
DBar
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I got Plan B spliced this morning. So far so good. A beautiful hickory billet from a 109 year old tree. I wish is was 3/16 wider in a couple of spots but think I can make it work.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Plan%20B%20Trade%20Bow_zpskyk6qwdm.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Plan%20B%20Trade%20Bow_zpskyk6qwdm.jpg.html)
The splice should be excellent once it's cleaned up.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Plan%20B%20Trade%20Bow-2_zpsatqsvpcv.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Plan%20B%20Trade%20Bow-2_zpsatqsvpcv.jpg.html)
Work day at the club tomorrow but I'll start chasing a ring the first of next week. Should be pretty easy.
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Dang Drew, thats a tight joint by anybody's standard sir. That includes furniture, boats and all of it. 8)
rich
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+1
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Got finish drying on my other project so I got back to work on the dogwood bow. Got it bending a little more on the floor then I put it on my caul to add a little reflex and line the tips up better. Hope to get it to at least a low brace tomorrow.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160325_181740698.jpg)
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Thanks Rich. I guess my woodworking background comes in handy sometimes. Now, if I can just learn to tiller without making any irreparable mistakes ;-)
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(http://i.imgur.com/cqsjihQ.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/CliAFuP.jpg?1)
Well here she is 2" shy of full draw @ weight. I think the lower fade is still a little stiff...I'll let you guys chime in. That kink in the lower limb is still visible but I think that part of the limb will be all right. The lower limb is 1.5" shorter then the top limb. Gonna post some overlay materials for you to check out in a few.
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(http://i.imgur.com/V7p0uG1.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/yDb1sQN.jpg?1)
I visited a Curtis Lumber near me in Ballston Spa NY...let me tell you I could have stayed there for hours. These are pen blanks for making wooden pen handles. Some of them stil have wax on them so its hard to see the rich colors but let me tell you they are nice. They are a great size for tip and handle overlays as well. They have all kinds of exotic Lumber too!
For this bow I'm thinking some blood wood and purpleheart for the tip overlays.
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That isn't a splice drew....looks like you drew it on a stave!! ;) wish I had those skills!
That dogwood is looking great turtle...I gotta get my hands on some of then stuff!
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Drewster that's the cleanest splice I've seen.
Turtle I'm liking the work your putting into all your bows. Gonna have a hard decision soon on which one to mail out.
Ajooter only thing I see wrong is its right handed. Dang it 😀
Hopefully tomorrow ill get some of time in to work on the mapl bow. But right guy now I'm down by the creek doing some hammock camping. We have the best rot lines baited. And was lucky enough to catch 5 keeper crappie. Hopefully we catch a lot more in the morning and have 50+ lbs of cat fish to clean. Keep up the bow building.
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Ajooter, that baby looks sweet. That bottom fade does look a lil stiff but not bad. Any of those overlays would be cool.
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ajooter - that bow is looking sweet - well done.
I haven't made much progress last couple of weeks - fighting a flair up in my shooting shoulder! >:( Have not been able to draw a bow in 3 weeks. Makes it kind of hard to shoot in my trade bow!!! Went to the doc yesterday - thinks it is a bit of arthritis that was irritated by a cold I had. Supposed to give it a little rest and gentle rehab and it should come around - hope so.
I plan on tillering out the hickory backed trilam (plan B) in the mean time. Hopefully can get back to shooting so I can finish out plan A.
Lots of good progress going on - too many pages I've missed to comment on all of them - but bows are looking good.
Mitch
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That is looking real nice ajooter but like gutshot said should be a lefty-Hammertime
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I don't think I could draw a bow at any reasonable draw weight weight with my left arm...maybe on the next trade fellas!
Thank you for the compliments as well!
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sorry I've kinda disappeared for a while after my yew bow broke :'( i found a nasty looking dent on the back of my plan be honeysuckle :P so on too the next.
here is where i am. pretty close right now. out to my target draw length and the lower end of draw weight just wanted a tiller check real quick.
i thinkthe top limb seams a bit weak and and the center third can come around some more, thoughts ???
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/C75B8B65-AA1C-4137-8B72-F663B8B98804.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/C75B8B65-AA1C-4137-8B72-F663B8B98804.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/6C9E03BA-E1F3-4494-A537-D7DFE9692D1E.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/6C9E03BA-E1F3-4494-A537-D7DFE9692D1E.jpg.html)
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Hey guys, time for another drawing.
Winners choice:
A dz raw cane shafts donated by Gun Doc,
Pair of elm billets from Pearl Drums
or
half eye's plains style quiver
And the winner is:
Congratulations Otter!!
Someone donated a farriers rasp :-[ but I had to delete a bunch of PM's because my mailbox was full.
Dylan that bow is looking good> top limb may be a little weaker but not much. Might be careful removing wood if you're already on the low end of draw weight.
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Congrats Otter. Your the lucky guy. Go back and find that pic of half eye plains quiver. Man that thing is nice, but pick what you want. Congrats again.
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A lot of good choices there....that quiver is pretty cool! Although some elm billets might be nice too..hmmmm....oh wait....Otter is picking :P
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So many bows being built that my poor brain can't keep em sorted out. They all looking good though.
Otter must of been wearing his lucky hat again.
Got the dogwood bow to about a 5" brace and stretched out to about 20". Its showing just a touch more set then I like this early in the game so I will probably give it a good heat treating.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160326_165349226.jpg)
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Dylan that bow is looking good> top limb may be a little weaker but not much. Might be careful removing wood if you're already on the low end of draw weight.
[/quote]
I think your bottom limb looks good....that top limb seems a little stiff from the fade out to midlimb. Just my two cents. Hand position on those bendies has a lot to do with tiller too.
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Congrats Otter - all nice choices. Well done to those that have contributed!
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Ajooter, that bow looks like it's about ready to sign, seal and deliver. Nicely done sir.
Dylan, I agree with Ajooter's assessment of your bow. The top limb seems to be just a bit stiff in that first third but that's seeing it from only the one side. You are certainly very close.
WOW Otter, what choices.....tough decision.......congrats indeed.
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Congrats Otter! Dylon that bows looking great. I see some great looking bows on the works. I cut my finger to the sinew last week working on and erc longbow. And I was supposed to take it easy for about 10 day. Monday is 10 days but I couldn't wait so I was out today back on the erc, I got it to floor tiller and its looking real good but I need to put some reflex in it. Any ideas about the best way to do that? I'm not sure if dry heat will work on erc and I don't have a way of steaming the whole bow. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Tim.
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Got lucky today on my way home from camping and fishing. A bull dozed pile of BL. Ask the owner he said get all I want. So now I have plan B-S.
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That looks like a nice lad of black locust gut. A lot of bow there.
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I've been distracted the past few days from working on any bows. We called a tree service to come cut down some tall pines. Before they get out here and drop trees, there were a few smaller trees that I wanted to try to save for staves. Maybe they would have been okay to wait, but I could sure see them being damaged by felling the pines. Now I am the proud owner of several hickory and persimmon staves... cut plenty long, split, and sealed the ends.
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Nice hauls to Gutshot and Loope!
Started tillering my trilam. Have it braced up and pulling to 16" at this point. Anyone have experience tillering a R/D trilam? It is at 36# at 16" so I have a little room yet (shooting for 45-50 @ 28). Not sure where to go from here as this type of bow is new to me. Any advice? Here is unbraced, braced, and pulled to 16".
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MWH that looks awesome man. I'm just comparing it to some I've seen on here and I think your definitely on the right track!! Can't wait to watch it come along. I've noticed some guys making them with stiffer outers..but I think yours will work just fine.
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Turtle is right I must have been doing something right lol... Yes Gutshot I be thinking that I'm picking the quiver... Thanks for all the remarks and thank you all who donated and made this one of the best bow trades ever
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Rich after seeing that quiver I was drooling at the mouth... I never would have believed I would win it... I will treasure it for life ... Thank you for the commitment to making this a special bow trade this year.
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Congratulations Otter.
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mitch, to me the right side looks like it is bending too much right out of the fade compared to the left side--but i am no expert with that kind of bow.
For myself, I made a bowstring for my osage bow (the one with the hole in it) and shot about 50 arrows from it. It hasn't blown yet, so I am starting to feel more confident it is going to make it. I also started tillering the yew stave. There is still some twist in the limbs that is proving stubborn. I want to get it bending well and have everything lined up, before I try to back it with rawhide. Work is slow, but going forward.
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(http://i.imgur.com/pfhpLeD.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/F4XKXE7.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/VaymS2K.jpg?1)
Roughed in the handle for starters...it's pretty comfy....needs some more polishing. Wanted to do the tips as well but my gluing surfaces are quite tight enough yet. Hopefully get to them tomorrow.
I gotta get to bed before the Easter bunny gets here....otherwise there will be rabbit stew >:D
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Looks great ajooter! Happy Easter everyone!
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Mitch I'm liking that lam bow. Looks nice.
Ajooter like your handle lams, make those tips to match and every body will be drooling.
Keep those pics coming guys.
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Happy Easter everyone... He is alive and setting at the right hand of the Father... Amen
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That is looking good there ajooter. It looks quite similar to one I just finished a couple of weeks ago. Unfortunately the black locust broke after about 500 arrows. Here is a couple of pictures of the handle and tips.
Patrick
(http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w668/lebhuntfish1/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/20160314_180251_zpslx5j4pbs.jpg) (http://s1335.photobucket.com/user/lebhuntfish1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/20160314_180251_zpslx5j4pbs.jpg.html)
(http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w668/lebhuntfish1/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/20160314_180237_zpsc5wepctg.jpg) (http://s1335.photobucket.com/user/lebhuntfish1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/20160314_180237_zpsc5wepctg.jpg.html)
(http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w668/lebhuntfish1/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/20160313_190918_zps2camdt8e.jpg) (http://s1335.photobucket.com/user/lebhuntfish1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/20160313_190918_zps2camdt8e.jpg.html)
(http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w668/lebhuntfish1/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/20160313_152600_zps1mlzk3xj.jpg) (http://s1335.photobucket.com/user/lebhuntfish1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/20160313_152600_zps1mlzk3xj.jpg.html)
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Happy Easter everyone... He is alive and setting at the right hand of the Father... Amen
Amen! And happy easter everyone!
Patrick
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mwosborn:
Comparing it to other trilams to me it looks pretty good. A word of warning though, after being on vacay in AZ for a couple of weeks I was very excited about getting back to the bows and I underestimated the sensitivity of the outer half of the limbs on my trilam. I "forgot" I tapered the corelam and very quickly turned the target # from like 50 to 30 or so. Just giving you a heads up.
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(http://i.imgur.com/Rv7D04J.jpg?1)
Ill cut the string nocks back into them after dinner...that's if I can move! :o
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Hey otter, Just now caught up on the posts I missed....please PM me your address and I'll get this right out to you
rich
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(http://i.imgur.com/MIdnfIe.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/LeIx48R.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/aoiZa6s.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/PStCkqa.jpg?1)
The way the string nocks were cut this nock ended up at the top of the tip after I shaped the overlay materials. I'm not sure I like where it is. I put about 20 shots through it....it shoots great!! I was going to heat treat both limbs but the set that the bow has taken is minimal. I just have to include the picture of the stave when I first roughed it out so my guy knows this.
You guys think this nock is safe? If it is ill clean it right up.
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Ajooter,
I dont do tip overlays at all .....but I would load that baby up and shoot it....for that is worth to ya
rich
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Thanks rich....she shoots really good. I like the way this bow came out! Gonna get her good and shot in and get her all sealed up and off to my guy!
Got a couple more accessories to add that I may save for my guy to see. Always nice to be surprised!
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If it was mine I would move the nock point down about 3/4" so it would be more on the meat of the bow instead of the very end. But that will make your bow 1 1/2 in shorter. Maybe somebody with more knowledge will chime in and see what they have to say
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I was thinking that gut....I may shoot it a little more and change my decision.
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ajooter,
JIMHO.......I started out putting thick overlays on...see the first pic below. Then I started thinking that overlays were to protect the back of the bow from the string cutting through and that the tips should be light as far as mass is concern. Then I started putting less material on (second pic) to keep the weight down and I use a hard overlay material to protect the back.......
Therefore, next time use thinner material and you will have a functional overlay. IMO... :)
DBar
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Totally agree Dear! I was already thinking along those lines myself.
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Dbar...not dear haha
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I would like to use either antler or horn and redo the nocks....I have some gorgeous overlay materials if anybody wants to make a trade! 8)
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I can send you a chunk of antler if you need one. I have plenty, no need for reimbursement. Just PM me your address. I have a different shipment to make tomorrow anyways. I can't imagine it would take more than a couple stamps to cover the weight so I'm happy to help.
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After lots and lots of hatchet work and blisters, I have the Plan B dogwood ready for tiller.... and have wishes for a bandsaw!
This is some hard, dense, and tough wood! It doesn't chop easily and doesn't cut easily with even a hair-shaving, razor sharp drawknife. I was curious, so I did a poor man's SG check... cut a 6 inch long piece of wood and shape it to a square cross-section, and used calipers to make sure it was the same thickness the whole length. Then dunk in a glass of water and see how much of it floats. Based on this test, this piece of dogwood has a SG of about 0.85.
Anyway, got it ready for starting tiller. I have left it a little wide still, and a little thick. The knots I found earlier mostly disappeared during the shaping. One of the knots carved out while getting down to starting thickness, but left a swirly grain area. I am leaving this extra wide for now.
There are still some knots in the handle, but I will probably cut this down and laminate some knot free wood back on.
Happy Easter everyone!
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Ajooter, if you've got a good glue joint those overlays would work fine. But, per Dbar you've got more mass there than you need and extra weight out on the tips is the last thing you want.
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Ajooter, if you've got a good glue joint those overlays would work fine. But, per Dbar you've got more mass there than you need and extra weight out on the tips is the last thing you want.
The real tip here is not to let the overlay extend out past the bow wood...... ;)
DBar
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I actually found some antler so I'll go with it....thanks a lot Kid...that was awful generous of you. I really won't lose much limb length at all and the upper limb is already 1.5" longer.
I'll fix her fellas....thanks for all the input!
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got my last back chased on my final stave, and it's the one I'm going to start with, so I marked it up to. It's 61ish inches end to end, so I reserved 12 inches for the bending handle (6 inches each side of center), and I'm going to keep it 1 1/4 inch wide all way, and then taper down to 1/2 inch tips starting 6 inches out. Going to flip the tips as well. Should give me a bit of width to work with, and should help me keep the weight up to where it needs to be. I'm going to reduce the thickness down to floor tiller next weekend, unless I get some time this week, which isn't likely cause the kids are on spring break and we will be doing some stuff.
I had to go down about 3 rings cause one end of the stave had a crack/check in it. That knot was a pain to, but I got it all down nice and clean.
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Alright I FINALLY got my ring chased! At least, I hope so. There were all sorts of pin knots (which I was warned about with Black Locust) and aside from one tiny tearout on an edge that will likely be removed anyway, they're all clean. I laid it down on the garage floor and as you can see, right where the big knot on the left is it starts twisting pretty badly. If I was thinking, I would have laid down a ruler next to it. >_< Should I try straightening it before shaping it?
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Hey Ranasp, please put up the picture 8)
rich
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Now why would you want something like that done? Oh fine.
Apparently I haven't had nearly enough coffee this morning. >_<
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Looks like you could go either way. But perhaps you can carve in the front profile and thin the limb thickness just a tad....maybe near to floor tiller....then straighten the twist before tillering her out.
Just my .02 however.
rich
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OK fellas,
Here is an open letter to MR. FRED......we have uncovered a conspiracy to pay you back for all your shenanigans running this trade. It is unknown if it is a " vast right-wing conspiracy" or the actions of "hyper-active wood nymphs & gnomes" but either way here's all of you's chance to get back at Fred.
There are three packages heading to Mr. Fred's house. They are marked 1of3 2of3 and 3of3.....but Fred ya cant open any of them until all 3 get there >:D >:D >:D There is/was a lot of underhanded, sneeky, and otherwise untoward activities involved here and just some of the conspirators are listed here......DuBois, Dakota kid, Tattoo Dave, Don Burchett, Dan Hamblin, and just maybe a small amount of ole' half eye but that is not an admission. ::)
It would be very nice if all of the trade participants could occasionally (or more often if so inclined) remind Fred that "paybacks is hell" >:D >:D >:D 8)
Maybe some open speculation as to what ever these could be, or what kind of pay-back is involved could help Fred with a slight bit of anticipation.
rich
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I hope all of you guys are playing fair? You all know paybacks are a bitch!!!
You do have me wondering what you're up to. ::)
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Package shenanigans! I say that they're loaded with snakeskins, with the snakes still attached. And slithering.
Will do on knocking off some of the excess wood.
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Ranasp that is coming along nicely. You're getting to the point where you'll be seeing a bow here soon. Just take your time and ask questions. Lot's of good help here.
I literally hit pay-dirt today. I have a feedlot 1 mile North of me and was needing some fill dirt and compost to level some of the ground around my property and fill in some of my garden area. Here's what they brought me just after lunch. 2 15 ton dump truck loads and one more on the way.
Cost was suppose to be between $2 to $4 / ton. They said I owed $0 and asked if I wanted more.
And I was getting ready to visit the farm store to purchase 40# bags.
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You have to like their math!
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Fred 1of 3 you wasn't suppose to open it. Till you got all 3
Lol
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Fred, that's some fine looking dirt.......no BS. Keep a lookout of the delivery man. This could get interesting!
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;D They were 10 yd loads and they delivered 4 today. >:D I'm almost as excited about this as I am the bow trade. This should make for an excellent Spring opportunity to finally get my yard in order and expand my garden.
I've been canning venison and veggies from the garden for the past 6 years. I'm really looking forward to becoming more independent for survival by doing it myself.
Also expanding to chickens this year for meat and eggs. I always try to keep a couple jars of fresh pickled eggs in the fridge.
Next Spring possibly a couple Llamas or goats to keep the over growth down.
I've been without indoor plumbing going on 7 years and finished most of the plumbing last year. The boys and I are planning on washing down a well early May. Already have the pressure tank and pump.
Thinking of setting up a little archery range on this little acreage in the future.
If I live long enough to see it this place just may come around.
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Nice looking dirt Fred. Looks like a lot of work too - will keep you busy for a while!
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Mitch, not much luxury around this place compared to what a lot have though I would never trade it for a nice place in town.
It truly is primitive compared to most lifestyles. Hope you get a chance to swing by and do a little roving or hunting one of these days.
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Kind of sounds like my version of Heaven sir.....
rich
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Kind of sounds like my version of Heaven sir.....
rich
+1 for sure fellas
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Sounds great - your right, I need to get over there sometime!
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Fred, happy to see your dream yard and garden coming together. Traveled on a houseboat I built, for a couple years with tanks and a hand pump. And we went without running water for the first year here after I built the house, on land, too. We pipe our water from a spring I dug out. Slowly but surely things come together, Fred. It'll seem like a miracle to turn on a tap when it happens!
******
re. building:
Plan C bow is what I'll be finishing up now, and it's the one I'm sending out. Shoots straight and hits hard, and the bow just feels solid. Black birch, 67" ttt, 51# @28. 30" arrow in the photo, and I'm clearly not full drawing it even 28". Best I can do. At my draw in the pic (guessing 26" and maybe 45#) it was shooting 157-166 fps average with 400 grain arrow. Photo on stump is just unstrung profile. It's not taking any obvious set after shooting.
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Did you deflex that handle a little Bit? Looks like a solid shooter!
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That looks excellent PlanB.......nice work indeed!
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Plan B looks good. I like that pic of the shot. It shows what the string is doing when it releases the arrow. Cool pic. Unreal how much slack it has.
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Plan B
keeping the reflex certainly indicates you have found the right design and tiller for the birch.
Board or stave?
Did you just luck out on that photo with the arrow?
willie
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Woah that's a nice bow! I love getting photos like that where the string is doing a sine wave thing. Found out the camera on my phone has a "burst" setting so I'll see if I can get a good one like that once I actually have a bow to shoot. (talking about getting ahead of myself...)
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That is a nice plan c PlanB. That looks like a good accurate hunting bow if I have ever seen one.
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ajooter, Drewster, Gutshot, Willie Ranasp, Swampman. Thank you gentlemen -- great pleasure to be making bows in your company! :)
The slight handle deflex was from set during tillering. I did very little manipulation except for light heat treating, mainly to add a small amount of reflex to the tips.
It is a board bow, though from a tree I cut myself and sawed up stacked and seasoned.
The photos were just stills from a short video I took -- it's hard for me to use a self-timer with ten seconds to get back to the bow and get everything accomplished for a decent photo. I found that it was a lot easier to just video a few arrows with the same camera, and just take decent frame out of the video for the full draw. So the arrow shot was a little due to that, and a little luck to catch it so perfectly still within a frame and clear of the bow. I saw that and thought it was cool enough to add.
I'm working on a strobed multiple photo exposure electronics project right now for bows --- we'll see if that works out or not.
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Whoever gets plan b's plan c is a lucky s.o.b. Nice bow sir.
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PB - nice looking bow for sure - well done! Anyone would be happy to shoot that one. The pic is cool too.
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Just finished up stripping the bark off my BL staves. Now time to put them up for a few years
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Making progress with my hickory Plan B.......handle spliced, ring chased, rough profile cut out, ready to floor tiller. Hope I can get my plan B looking as good as PlanB's plan C. Geez, did I just say that??? ;-)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Plan%20B%20Hickory_zpsnqg3ptun.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Plan%20B%20Hickory_zpsnqg3ptun.jpg.html)
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Drewster go ahead and make it a lefty and send it to Kentucky. Lol. I like it always wanted to splice billets together but have had no success.
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Gutshot, I've found the key to a good splice is to square the end and make sure the belly cut is parallel to your back. THEN, you can lay the joint out accurately. I use a knife to mark out the Z splice.......not a pencil. A knife is much more accurate. A band saw with a good sharp blade and you're on your way. Touch up the joint areas that you can get to with a fine rasp and sandpaper.
I've been using West System G/Flex epoxy for the past couple of years. It's really good stuff. Lots of guys use Smooth On and there are other good epoxies out there too. The G/Flex is from a boat building supplier and it has a bit of filler in it. SO, if your joint isn't perfect, it will still do a fine job. I have never had a splice failure.....knock on wood......
Just DO IT Gut. You can make it happen.
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(http://i.imgur.com/SXh4fji.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/BsmfxzY.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/LHgYfnn.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/fgtPY1b.jpg?1)
Got the tips done..again...used some antler this time. I like these a lot better. I only shortened the top limb a half inch and boy did that stiffen that limb up and it really boosted the overall draw weight. Back to tillering!! :P
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Those looks excellent Ajooter.......really nice!
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Tips look great ajooter!
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(http://i.imgur.com/smzXMjZ.jpg?1)
Back in the game....Bottom limb is still a hair behind but I gotta get up at 430 and I need to sleep!
Drewster....you chased a back ring on that hickory?! That's impressive in itself.
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And thank you for the kind words fellas....it has been a total pleasure participating in this with all of you. Thanks fred for giving me this opportunity. I hope these so called "surprises" from Ole half eye aren't gonna be too ridiculous! >:D
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shewwe Ajooter those antler tips look like they grew there instead of glued on there. Man those are A1+ great job
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Looking very good Ajooter. Those tips look great.
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Mr. Ajooter.....absolutely beautiful sir !!! 8) 8)
PS: Mr. Fred deserves whatever he gets.....good or bad >:D >:D >:D
rich
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Drewster, ajooter, both lookin real good! :)
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ajooter , those are prolly the cleanest tips i've seen in a long time. awesome!
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OK fellas,
Here is an open letter to MR. FRED......we have uncovered a conspiracy to pay you back for all your shenanigans running this trade. It is unknown if it is a " vast right-wing conspiracy" or the actions of "hyper-active wood nymphs & gnomes" but either way here's all of you's chance to get back at Fred.
There are three packages heading to Mr. Fred's house. They are marked 1of3 2of3 and 3of3.....but Fred ya cant open any of them until all 3 get there >:D >:D >:D There is/was a lot of underhanded, sneeky, and otherwise untoward activities involved here and just some of the conspirators are listed here......DuBois, Dakota kid, Tattoo Dave, Don Burchett, Dan Hamblin, and just maybe a small amount of ole' half eye but that is not an admission. ::)
It would be very nice if all of the trade participants could occasionally (or more often if so inclined) remind Fred that "paybacks is hell" >:D >:D >:D 8)
Maybe some open speculation as to what ever these could be, or what kind of pay-back is involved could help Fred with a slight bit of anticipation.
rich
Payback is making me wait on the other packages
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The Mule Lives!!
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/04/image.jpeg)
The riser is finally seasoned and the receivers are glued in place and holding up really well (at least at the moment), I need a new string (story of my life!) to properly start tillering, and I need to fine tune the wedges on the end of the limbs. Am also playing around with some fancy designs for making the tiller all pretty - any comments always welcome, positive or negative.
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/04/image1.jpeg)
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Stuck....that is great ....way to stick with it sir 8)
Fred, I believe ya may be loosing ground sir......seems that I miss-calculated believe there is a fourth package heading your way as of tomorrow, Thank you Mr. Gutshot. So be on the look-out for number 4 of 4 >:D >:D >:D........hey just sayin bud.
rich
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Fred that means you can't open no package till all 4 gets there
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Thanks Rich,
I may promote The Mule to Plan A, but I do have a Plan B and Plan C drying-out in the corner just in case...... >:D
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You really need some fades. You cant have the thickness bending right up to the handle. Your closer than you were, but still a ways off from safe and reliable. Do have locater pins coupled with the bolts?
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With only one bolt(and a pin) is there any danger of the limbs bending backward(sort of)? I realize that the string stops anything from going that far but is there any vibration or something that might cause damage? When I look at it I just see how easy the limbs would break off backward. If the string were to break at full draw I think you would end up with three separate pieces. Not that we design bows with that kind of thing in mind. ??? ???
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Ugh... time flies when you're working long days, playing for concerts, playing for church over holy week...
I apologize for the lack of posting, as it's been a pretty crazy month. Things are starting to settle down again, and I'll have a 2-3 week window before things get crazy again. On the plus side, I have been working on my trade bow over this period.
(http://i.imgur.com/Z9jYpqJ.jpg)
This will be a trilam made out of osage, cherry, and bamboo with maple tip wedges and power lam. The osage is spliced, the cherry and maple are tapered, and the bamboo is planed. All I need to do now is cut out the shape of the bamboo (it's roughed out now, it shouldn't take long), flip the tips (jig and heat gun are ready to go), and glue it up!
(http://i.imgur.com/s18qnt1.jpg)
Here's a closer look of the woods stacked on each other (the handle block is black palm).
I will be out of town this weekend, but my goal is to have this puppy on the tillering tree next weekend and to have a shootable bow by the end of the month at the latest. I will definitely post more pictures as I go from here on out (ie, the flipped tips, glue up, etc).
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Finally got a day off but didn't get any bow work done. Decided to work on a bow related project instead and thought you all might like to see it. My very understanding and forgiving wife has hinted lately that I have too many unfinished bows in various stages of completion cluttering up the house , so I built a dry box for my shop today. Its 2'x2' and 7' tall. It has a dehumidistat hooked up to an outlet and another outlet that is always hot just incase I want to use it as a normal hotbox. I hung a 100w light in it and mounted a fan from some sort of electronics that a friend gave me. The fan came with an adjustable thermostat that can be set to bring the fan on anywhere from 30 to 140f. I have the light and the fan plugged into the outlet ran by the dehumidistat. I set it to 50 percent humidity so the the light will come on if the humidity gets above 50. I have the fan set so that when the light brings the temperature above 70f the fan will come on. It has vent slots on all three sides plus the door. I still need to put screen over the vents and install a proper latch. I hung a thermometer and humidity guage in it also. I will watch it for a few days to make sure its working the way I want it to and then start filling it up.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/dry%20box/IMG_20160401_171136766_HDR.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/dry%20box/IMG_20160401_171147745.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/dry%20box/IMG_20160401_171157999.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/dry%20box/IMG_20160401_172233181.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/dry%20box/IMG_20160401_171918031.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/dry%20box/IMG_20160401_171908344.jpg)
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Turtle, that's quite the set up.
Ty, sure glad to hear from you. You were beginning to worry me. I thought maybe we'd lost another one. The bow looks promising but I'd be lost trying to build one out of more than a stick. I'm too primitive. Maybe one of these days
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Damned turtle....you some kind of engineer there 8) That sir is the very best of makin due 8) 8) 8)
rich
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Nice project, Turtle!
Fred, if they keep sending you stuff you'll never get to open it!
Ty good to see you working on a bow!
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Damned turtle....you some kind of engineer there 8) That sir is the very best of makin due 8) 8) 8)
rich
+1 for sure.............
DBar
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Looks good ty..love that black palm handle!
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My Plan C bow has had one limb move a little sideways. It was quarter sawn and black birch has a strong tendency to warp toward the bark. Not a big problem in a flat sawn bow as this adds a small amount of reflex. But in a quarter sawn bow it moves tips to one side, as I've discovered recently.
I've started 2 QS BB bows so far and both show this problem, so this will be the last birch bow I build from quarter sawn stock. Maybe it works for other woods, dunno. Anyway, I'm going to have to try to correct it, but not a lot of faith it will work out. Not keen to start a Plan D bow at this point, but I will if I have to. Really liked C. Thought I had it down.
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Turtle, that is a cool project. Thanks for sharing.
PlanB, that sucks about your c bow. I am working on my plan d too. I have another piece of BL tillerred and shot in. It is looking pretty good. I have it prepped for a road kill backing. I just need to thaw the road kill out.
Mike
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Fred,
Sorry to give you a fright! I will be more active on posting from here on out. If I could find a hackberry tree like the one you posted a picture of, I would be hacking at that! But, a trilam it will be for this project.
Maybe as a plan c or as a separate build-a-long, I will whittle away at the stave you so graciously sent out.
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I hope all of you guys are playing fair? You all know paybacks are a bitch!!!
You do have me wondering what you're up to. ::)
Now Fred, these are a bunch of fine upstanding gentlemen here that would never do anything underhanded or unfair O:)
Oh, wait a minute. What is the date again? >:D
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You really need some fades. You cant have the thickness bending right up to the handle. Your closer than you were, but still a ways off from safe and reliable. Do have locater pins coupled with the bolts?
The limbs are hollow and I have faded the hollow into a flat cross section with the transition of the fade covering about 3 inches, so does that qualify as a fade since the thickness doesn't bend right up to the handle? I'm monitoring the bolts carefully for movement, if any occurs I will drill through some pins to assist them. The limbs will have lugs as well as the bolts to prevent the limbs swivelling
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I think you need some alignment pins mud. Just to be safe and to keep the limbs where they need to be.
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B...did you already have finish on the bow that warped? Was it dry enough? That's a shame...it looked like a good shooter.
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You really need some fades. You cant have the thickness bending right up to the handle. Your closer than you were, but still a ways off from safe and reliable. Do have locater pins coupled with the bolts?
The limbs are hollow and I have faded the hollow into a flat cross section with the transition of the fade covering about 3 inches, so does that qualify as a fade since the thickness doesn't bend right up to the handle? I'm monitoring the bolts carefully for movement, if any occurs I will drill through some pins to assist them. The limbs will have lugs as well as the bolts to prevent the limbs swivelling
You NEED pins in a 3 piece. You can see that huge gap at each end of the riser. Your limbs don't rest on the riser fully because neither surface is flat. That equals a lot of torque on the bolt and it means very little limb Is actually hitting the riser, it will pivot right around and break. I would urge you to abandon this idea for your trade bow and build something your familiar with. Maybe return to this one later.
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I would agree with Pearl Drums. If you look at your handle, there is just no meat holding that thing together. You have a three foot lever pulling 50-odd pounds on one end, and a fulcrum that doesn't start until wood touches wood, which in your case is just before the bolt, which will put such a degree of mechanical advantage on the other end that I don't see how it could hold together over time. There doesn't look to be a fade at all to help relieve the strain either. If you look close, there are also splinters already breaking away from where the limbs will eventually contact the riser, suggesting to me anyway that that point will crush as soon as any significant force is put on it.
Don't get me wrong, I love the experimentation and that you are pushing yourself with new challenges, but when we send out a bow, we have a responsibility to make one that is as safe as we know how to do. I would rather send (and receive) a simple D-selfbow than something fancy that I would be afraid to shoot. I haven't tried a take-down yet, because it feels beyond my skill level and I don't really have the tools to do it right yet. Maybe someday. Please keep trying with yours--but look at what has worked for others, there is no need to reinvent the wheel here, and every 3 piece I have ever seen has a huge handle and riser section--there is probably a reason for that.
One of the things I really like about this site is how positive and supportive everyone is, but sometimes I feel I could use a little more constructive criticism in my own stuff as well, so I appreciate Pearl Drums' candid honesty. We need that too.
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B...did you already have finish on the bow that warped? Was it dry enough? That's a shame...it looked like a good shooter.
Swampman, ajooter, thanks!
ajooter, no, it's still bare wood. I just have this feeling that trying to straighten it with steam will kill some of its good qualities. I really like this bow. I'm going to try, anyway, and if it drops in how I like it, I'll start over again. Re. dryness, it was dry by monitored weight change. The problem is when I tillered by narrowing the tips, and it's quarter sawn, I released internal tensions. One side of the limb was originally oriented toward the bark and the other side oriented toward the heart. Taking wood off the sides destabilizes the equilibrium you had before. Black birch seems to have a high radial shrinkage differential toward the bark. I think it works fine flat sawn, but not quarter.
I'm just now trying to figure out what heat strategy I should use -- steam the handle? Steam the limb? Dry heat the limb? It's a flat bow so trying to move the limb sideways just doesn't seem like it will work without twisting it. So I'm thinking the handle, being thicker might make more sense for a sideways bend, and there it would have to be steaming.
I've seen Gordon's OS build-along handle steam bending setup, and that's probably what I'll try. Seems like altering the handle will have the least effect on performance of the limbs, and a very small amount of bend at the handle will translate to a good amount of change at the tips. Right now, the string alignment is off by about 1/2" at the one tip. The handle has not been finished shaped yet, so I can accommodate an adjustment its final alignment there if I get the tips right.
The other worry is, will the adjustment last? I feel the pressure to get a bow finished -- I don't want to hang the trade up, but if the correction works, I'll need to watch if for awhile to see if anything comes back from shooting it. Otherwise, I'll be starting a plan D bow.
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I like steaming the handle myself B....I would steam it and then maybe hit it with some dry heat to set the alignment. I think you will still have a solid bow!
A bow I would gladly own anyway ;D
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Plan B,
I have made a lot of quartersawn bows, what you have is the board relieving tension and the closer to final shape you get the easier it moves. This might help with this situation:
1. Make a square box (small) by screwing 2X4 down so the limb will lay flat between them maybe 14" long or so.
2. If you rip the 2X4 to the same thickness as the bow limb.....then just screw a top on the "box". If not then rip a flat board that will fit between them.
3. Steam the bow limb and insert into the "box" and move laterally as necessary to straighten.....with a loose "top" just hold down on it as you bend.
4. If the amount of bend exceeds the width you made the box, then "nibble" the bend a little at a time as you work down the limb.....this may require re-steaming to get it all. I have done this to both elm species, hard maple, ironwood, and white birch (paper) and have not had any "bad" results.
A lot of times the fresh sawed boards will look straight but squirrely as they dry on the rick. I've had good success if I place the green boards on the stickers and have them pretty close together BUT also place one even with the very end of the board. After building the rick I weight the top stickers with scrap wood or other weight. That wont completely cure the lateral movement issue but it will absolutely minimize it.
Basically the stress dried into the board so there is no reason you cant bring it back around.
Hope that helps you some. I'm sure it's not the only way but it works for me.
rich
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Hey guys I did say I still needed to tune everything ;D. Nearly learned everything I need to, then on to the trade bow.....
; )
Here is my 'to do' list - ream out limb through-bolts as they are too snug; make limb/bed interface perfect; carve and fit locating lugs; make string/tiller to target weight
The limbs are significantly overweight, I have pulled them to low brace, cannot pull them any further and there is no movement in the riser so I am satisfied that it should handle the 40# target weight
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ajooter, Rich, thanks buds, that's really helpful -- and hopeful. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Re. stacking a rick Rich, the black birch I cut last summer (and granted it was only two trees -- so maybe not typical) really wanted to move. I had a couple of full width boards through the center practically split themselves in half. Rick was about 4 feet tall by three boards wide, and covered with wanes to keep the water off. I'll try what you said, next time.
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Got a little work in on shaping the Black Locust belly down, which of course has me questioning what the hell I'm doing even more than before. Logically, I know I have 87" of length to work with so if I can likely adjust what I'm doing up or down the stave, but in my mind I'm just sure I'm going to go one step too far and go "well, you can't add that back on."
In any case, I have a question about the arc of the back, it seems really curved to me, is that a problem, or am I imagining things? Also how wide should this thing be? Measuring it, I have roughly 2 3/4" on most of it, wider in some other spots. How thick should it be? Should I be going for a pyramid style bow on this, or something else? SO MANY QUESTIONS I DON'T KNOW WHERE TO START.
This is one of the ends, it's obviously way too wide and deep but it's better than when I started. I'm a bit worried about making the tip off-center. What I did was measured the center of the stave in two spots further up, then drew a line connecting them to the end in hopes of getting something close to the center. Does that seem right?
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j14/GreyDrakkon/1stBlackLocustBow/ShapingTip_zpseziwpkym.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/GreyDrakkon/media/1stBlackLocustBow/ShapingTip_zpseziwpkym.jpg.html)
In this spot I have a knot that's dipped lower than the rest of the belly. I can easily plane down to it (actually I'm using the draw knife for this, should I even still be using it or moving on to some other tool like a rasp?)
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j14/GreyDrakkon/1stBlackLocustBow/ShapingKnotPlaned_zps6eyvmpoo.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/GreyDrakkon/media/1stBlackLocustBow/ShapingKnotPlaned_zps6eyvmpoo.jpg.html)
This is what I'm talking about with the back having a big arc to it, the depth is over 3/4" there at the peak, but the edges are obviously much thinner, at least at the width the stave is at now.
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j14/GreyDrakkon/1stBlackLocustBow/ShapingKnotDepth_zpsbu9uvpu3.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/GreyDrakkon/media/1stBlackLocustBow/ShapingKnotDepth_zpsbu9uvpu3.jpg.html)
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Belly is fine so don't worry about it or work on it until you get the back ring cleaned up. Those tear outs were probably caused by getting too aggressive with the draw knife. You've got plenty of room to go down one more ring. When working around the knots put the draw knife away and use a fine rasp/file and scraper.
I'm going to copy your pic and post it with some recommendations.
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Wait, I think I'm messing up my terminology. The part that used to be on the outside of the log, the part I took away the sapwood, that's the Back, right? Feeling like a newb, here.
The parts with the tearouts are where I split off the inside of the log to try and remove excess material.
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Yes, that is the back. The belly faces you as you draw the string. You tore those out while removing the sapwood but you have plenty of wood remaining to remove one more ring.
With BL you may be able to get by with filling those with superglue and sawdust but if you have more of them I'd take it down a ring.
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...But that's not the sapwood side that's ripped out. :/ The part that's all rough and ripped is the part that was closest to the center of the log.
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Then you're good to go. You cleaned the belly up so good that I thought it was the back
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Whew! Had me making a face like this D: for a bit there.
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Now I'm really confused. .....I decided to take the bow out and shoot it, just to see how the side bend was affecting it before I steamed it. And it shot great patterns (for me). I shot eight rounds of 7 arrows, just enjoying it. I took it back inside still braced because it was just starting to rain -- I'd have stayed out shooting, if I could have. And I sighted down the bow, and here's what it looks like (first photo):
Unstrung, though, I can see the side bend (second photo):
Maybe a little hard to see in the photo, but the curve is to the right. Seems to pull out when braced. So, now I'm not sure what I ought to do. It's spot on for draw weight, draw length, lots of early string tension, it's completely tillered. I just hate to steam it at this point. What do you guys think?
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DO NOTHING!!! Fred gave you my address right?@! >:D
Nothing wrong with that bow as is! Made a couple just like that.
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I agree, do nothing b, if it is good braced and shoots that well, go ahead and send it to Minnesota. I will gladly take it into the swamp and shoot a swampbuck with it. ;D
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Swamp man. I would leave as is if it shoots good draws good got the weight then it has to be good. Looks good too.
Ranasp on your BL what's the weight and draw your looking for. My BL I made is 50lb I made it 15/8 in wide at 62" long from my fade I came down with parallel limbs 12" then tapered to 1/2" tips. That's because my stave wasn't wide enough to make a pyramid bow. I would recommend you to have that bow at least 17/8-2" wide at fade to 1/2 at tips. Once you get that 1/2 thick is a great starting point on your limbs. Mine are a shade over 3/8 thick finished. Any ? Please feel free to ask there is great people on here to answer all your ? If you have a heat gun once you get down to 1/2 thick on limbs the heat the belly of each limb from fade to about 5" from tip. I think this really helps BL a lot. But that's just me. Good luck I have faith you will make a good bow.
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I got dibs first swamp thing!
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ajooter, swampman, gutshot, thank you guy's! I'm flattered to send a bow to anybody whose work I've seen here and the friendship that this group has given to me and one and all. And certainly to receive one. I for sure wouldn't work on this bow any more if it was just for myself. And I was pretty determined to let it be. But after thinking about it last night, and waking up this morning, I'm going to try to steam just the handle. Keeping it is one thing, sending it out is another. If I don't try it at least, I won't know if that would have worked. I'll build a Plan D if I mess it up.
Rich, I have another bow I'm going to try that limb bending box on, and I decided to re-sticker my wood ricks per your suggestions. Thank yo greatly for those and other suggestions. And Fred, thank you again for making this whole trade possible.
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after some deliberation i decided too heat treat and retiller my trade bow.
now i feel better about the tiller and the weight is a little bit higher than before too ;D
i'm going to shoot it in and start finishing it. id like to put a strike plate on it and here are my options, hoof chew from the pet store, deer bone, or another copper plate like the one shown.
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/E1098145-6E6D-4BED-9BEB-7CFB01BAD3BE.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/E1098145-6E6D-4BED-9BEB-7CFB01BAD3BE.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/25011BCA-B973-434F-84D1-64D1DF4BBA23.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/25011BCA-B973-434F-84D1-64D1DF4BBA23.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/5D54610E-E6A9-4643-86FC-09DDE45C5C71.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/5D54610E-E6A9-4643-86FC-09DDE45C5C71.jpg.html)
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That's looking really good Dylan....I vote for the hoof myself...although the cover would be neat too!
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I agree Dylan, that is looking nice. I would vote for the hoof too.
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Hoof X 3 . Great looking bow with a beautiful bend Dylan. You did a fine job indeed. 2 thumbs up!!!
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I'll vote hoof too. But put it on the other side of the bow please. Send Fred a PM he will get you my address. :D
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Damned fine lookin bend right there Dylan....I also would go with the hoof
rich
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Really nice Dylan! I was actually planning on putting a copper plate on my trade bow, thinking that would be really unusual! Any one will look great on yours.
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Nice bend dylan - polished hoof would look cool.
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hoof it is ;D i'll try to cut it so that i have a two tone affect with the black and white ;)
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(http://i.imgur.com/CuiJfkg.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/KgyMolO.jpg1)
(http://i.imgur.com/hzErcjd.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/Ph0I8tJ.jpg?1)
Handle cleaned up a little more and hopefully final tiller. Bottom limb is still a little wonky and the picture wasn't taken right from the side so the bottom limb looks a little twisted.
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That handle looks really nice Ajooter
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Sure does! :)
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I'm so glad I've got my trade bow finished!!! Broke my left hand last night so I'm out of bow making for awhile and shooting. Dang it. Life goes on though.
Ajooter that bow is sweet like the handle work.
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Gutshot! :( :( :(
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what the heck Gutshot?! Ajooter, that whole setup is badarse.
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Jesus Gutshot....hope it wasn't too bad sir.
rich
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I'm sorry to hear that gut!! Glad you got my bow done before the mishap! >:D
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Dylon I'd vote for the hoof too sticks lookin good. Ajooter that bow is really nice. Plan b looking great!
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Man Gutshot, I hate to hear that. Hope you have a speedy recovery. Just duct tape a fishing rod to that cast! >:D
Patrick
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Aw no, Gutshot! Broken anything is horrible, but your hand? That's gotta be maddening.
Thanks for the tips by the way. I did get some more work in on the stave (before a friend came over and we did some shooting, can't resist flinging arrows on a nice day!)
I ended up working at the giant knot area and flattening out the belly on it a bit. I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this, but it looks like there's a really dry/crunchy spot that I'm pretty sure doesn't go all the way through. I think that even if I reduced the wood to remove it completely, it'll still be around 1" thick and so can stand to have a good amount of material removed.
Here's the before pic. I had just barely started taking it down, it's pretty gnarly:
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j14/GreyDrakkon/1stBlackLocustBow/RoughKnot_zpswgkr4pz8.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/GreyDrakkon/media/1stBlackLocustBow/RoughKnot_zpswgkr4pz8.jpg.html)
Here's after I started in on it. There's still over an inch of thickness here. This area is super hard, I'm assuming I'll have to thin it out more than the rest of the bow since it's not going to bend well?
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j14/GreyDrakkon/1stBlackLocustBow/RoughKnotSmoother_zpsng3dscjx.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/GreyDrakkon/media/1stBlackLocustBow/RoughKnotSmoother_zpsng3dscjx.jpg.html)
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Is that in the limb or handle area? And does that knot go all the way through the bow?
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Gutshot, heal!!! You've done a marvelous job here and wishing for a speedy recovery for you.
ajooter, you've got a great looking bow there. Good job.
Ranasp, I would think with that big of knot that you have a hump on the back side of the bow. Try to work that area with the rasp as much as possible. Your thickness on the limbs should remain the same as the other side and the surrounding area. Any corrections should be made after you begin tillering.
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It's only 20-something inches in from the end, so no way I can make it into a handle area unless I make a seriously funky looking bow (or a seriously short one). I'm going for about the same weight as you, Gutshot, 50+ #, probably 64" or so.
When I get home I'm going to do some measuring...I might be able to actually put the knot at the nock area. I thought before I wouldn't be able to for some reason, but it won't hurt to get some new measurements.
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Took about a month break on the bow.... But I'm ready to start working on it again.
I brought the thickness down even more... It's more or less at brace height. I want to go farther before stringing it though.
What do you guys think? I included 3 different picture. One of each limb straight on, and then the whole thing. When you look at the whole thing in one picture it makes the limbs look hinged. Looking straight at them gets rid of it.
Right limb straight on: Yes, there is a bit of a hinge. I need to take off wood closer to the end.
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160403_183133_zpshoijwcnc.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160403_183133_zpshoijwcnc.jpg.html)
Left limb straight on:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160403_183137_zpspljwyxzj.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160403_183137_zpspljwyxzj.jpg.html)
Whole bow:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160403_183144_zpsqzeqayxy.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160403_183144_zpsqzeqayxy.jpg.html)
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Gutshot, what the heck are you doing man? That's NO good at all. Sorry to hear about that.
David, I don't think you have a hinge at this point but your limbs do need to start bending more right out of the fades. Keep them even and work on the inner limbs. You can low brace it to about 3" once you get the limbs bending 10"-12". Keep your long string pretty tight until you get it to brace.
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Drew, I'm seeing just the opposite. I wouldn't take any more off near the fades but would work on the outer 1/3. Those limbs are looking mighty thin IMO.
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I gotta agree with drew...I think the outers are bending more then the inner limbs. The right limb more so then the left.
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dang gutshot how'd you do that! :( :-X :'(
ajooter that bow is looking good 8)
david lets see a front profile so we have a better idea what you're working with. :)
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Finally got some bow work going on. Decided to heat treat the dogwood. Did a lot of shooting with the vine maple while heating.(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160404_150117987.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160404_170556434.jpg)
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Now that's a heat treatment turtle! What do you put on the limbs while your hitting it with the heat gun?
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Thought I would give an update.....putting finishing touches on my 3 options and here is a couple of full draw pics.....hickory curve and hhb(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/e5215413-e30b-4407-94c7-409743acc4f0_zpsdchlbc1i.jpg)
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Here (http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/542e7cdd-c535-4323-be64-2b3cc31bba7b_zpsnihlxnxd.jpg)is the hickory
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Now that's a heat treatment turtle! What do you put on the limbs while your hitting it with the heat gun?
Everytime I moved the heatgun I wiped some boiled linseed oil on the just heated section. This is the first time I ever put anything on one while heat treating so I have no idea if it actually helps or not.
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Good to see all this activity! We got Rich's old blizzard overnight and today -- were you done with that one, Rich? :laugh: I got the bend out of the Plan C bow somewhat using steam, and also heat straightened one tip slightly, but there's still some asymmetry unbraced. Braced the string is centered, so I'm going to say this is what this bow wants to be. To check that it still shot as good as it did I strung her up, grabbed a quiver, and headed out into a fresh 5" of snow (we had robins out here pulling worms out of the ground and 70 deg a couple days ago) . I figured nothing would be too slippery, all the ice was long gone. But promptly took a major crumple when I stepped on a piece of tin roofing that must have blown off the woodpile last night, and got buried in the snow. Slick as ice with new snow on it. Thought I felt something pop in the knee, the way I landed. But other than some minor pain, doesn't seem like I got injured after all.
Bow shot as nice as it ever has, so I called the main work finished, and shaped the handle a little better and got a sealer coat on it. Looking forward to finish work and Plan C is going to be a trade bow at last. :)
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PlanB, I am glad that bow turned out.
Gut, sorry to hear about your broken hand. That sucks.
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Best wishes Gutshot - hope you heal quickly.
David - do you have a tillering gizmo? I think that would help you decide where to take off wood. I use mine while using the long string.
Hammer - looks like they are bending pretty good. What is your draw length? Looks like you have a lot of arrow in front of the bow.
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Hammer I would love to see closer pictures of those. That first one looks very interesting, but the outer limbs look pretty stiff still.
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Gut
Get better. Your tools miss you already. I hope there wasn't any drunken hillbilly drywall testing going on. >:D :laugh:It sure looks cool when somebody punches right through the wall, unless of course they're a stud finder.
I went to start fine sanding the rock elm tonight and low and behold my heat corrections are MIA yet again. This time it held for 2 weeks before returning. I'm wondering if it still has some of it's original moisture? Instead of letting my frustrations lead me to the burn barrel with it I put it up in the rafters for a bit. On the plus side I found an American hornbeam stave I didn't notice on my last inventory. It was a hefty 6" half a tree and straight,... well straight for hornbeam. 1 nice stave easily turned into 2 nice staves. Roughed it out last night and made it to floor tiller this afternoon. This wonderful piece of wood has my full attention at the moment and I'm tearing through it, especially for as hard as HB is to work with just hand tools. I'm going mollegabet on this one. Might have a pic worth looking at before the weekend.
Keep up with the good work all of you. I haven't seen a bow yet that I wouldn't be happy to put some arrows through.
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David, I'm with Mitch on the tillering gizmo. Now's the time you need it. I don't believe your limbs are bending evenly. You need to fix this before you remove wood.
IMPO, I think you removed a lot of wood without asking for directions.
I know you're an anxious and busy young man but if you get in too big of rush you can screw things up. Don't ask me how I know!!!!!!
You work that one as best as you can but I personally think you've already bushwacked it.
We'll get you another stave if need be and you have all summer to finish but I want to see more pics as you progress on the next one.
Some of these guys are a hell of a lot more experienced and also smarter than I am. I expect you to ask for their help,.
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I put some bends into my yew stave. I used dry heat and oil--this has always been my most successful method of bending in hooks. I heat while leaning lightly on the handle. when it is ready to bend, it just moves like melting plastic.
Next step: rehydrating for a few days and adding rawhide. What do people like to use to de-grease? Will I be better with Titebond or with hide glue to glue on the rawhide?
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Jeff I use tight bond 3. And a lot of it. I get some water to almost boiling stage pour it in a coffe cup roll my raw hide up and put in the cup ( only soak enough for 1/2 the bow ) then I lay the tight bond on 1/2 my bow pull the raw hide out ( uasualy only in the hot water for 20-30 seconds and lay it down then wrap with my cotton strips very tight. Repeat this for the othe half. I made the mistake and soaked both pieces of rawhide at the same time and the 2nd piece was in the water to long and became like a sponge and was NG. good luck with putting it on. I'll quit blabbering now.
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David - do you have a tillering gizmo? I think that would help you decide where to take off wood. I use mine while using the long string.
No, I don't. Need to make one....
Thanks for the help!
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Gut,
Thanks. What about degreasing the back of a stave? Is dish soap and water enough?
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I prefer to sight across a short straight-edge than using a gizmo - move the straight edge along the inside of the limb and watch the gap between the edge and the limb open and close - as the bow gets nearer final tiller and the curve is deeper you just use a shorter straight edge
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That looks really good Jeffp51! Sorry I can't help with back de-greasing advice.
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I don't like to put the rawhide in really hot water. I put it in Luke warm water and let it soak for a half hour. Sometime I have to change the water. You should be able to take it out of the water and actually stretch it out. Clare Hayes does a great follow on you tube. I cover the back of the bow with tb3 as well as the underside of the rawhide. Very important is to size the back of the bow with a coating of glue first and allow it to dry. Then you can add more glue as well as the glue to the rawhide. If not going all the way to the tips you can use masking tape to tape off areas you don't want to get glue on. Once the rawhide is layed on the bow I like to wrap it at the handle and start working it down towards the tips getting all the air bubbles out. Then I continue the wrapping down to the tips. I use ace bandage, innertubes, or old cotton shirts cut up. You want something with some stretch so you can get it tight...but not too tight. I let it sit for a couple hours...maybe 3...then I take the wrapping off to check for any major bubbles. If you find bubbles you may be able to still squeeze them out or you may have to price them with a pin and hit the spot with an iron.
My two cents...good luck...that's a nice stave.
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Jeff, tight bond will work but I save that for putting snake skins on over the rawhide. If you want the rawhide to really suck down to the yew I would first wash it with dawn dish soap and super hot water. Then mix you up some Knox gelatine/hide glue in a double boiler. Don't get it hotter than what is comfortable to your fingers. Rawhide and hide glue are made for each other. Then I rough up the back of the bow with an old hacksaw blade. Take your rawhide out of the water and stretch it out and dry it off pretty good. Apply a sizing coat of hide glue to the bow and the rawhide. I use a small horse hair paint brush. Let it get tacky then apply a good coat of glue to them both and apply the rawhide to the back of the bow. Work out the air bubbles with your thumbs from side to side. Then using a damp rag on the rawhide squeegee the the glue down the bow. Work it until it sets up some, it won't take too long. I don't wrap it any more at all. Just repeat for the other side. Hope this helps.
Patrick
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Jeff, I've never degreased a bow in my life and never had a backing of any sort lift. Yew, especially, isn't oily. Id just rough it up a bit and glue it down however you choose.
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I prefer to sight across a short straight-edge than using a gizmo - move the straight edge along the inside of the limb and watch the gap between the edge and the limb open and close - as the bow gets nearer final tiller and the curve is deeper you just use a shorter straight edge
Gizmo - straight edge - basically doing the same thing, both work fine. Gizmo just puts a mark on the bows belly while a straight edge does not. Either way, using one early on in the process helps getting even limbs and bends. Especially when learning the process.
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Pearly,
The bow in question was heat corrected with oil if I read correctly. I would make an effort to remove the oil in the treated area at least. Soap and water is good. After I usually hit it with denatured alcohol or acetone, just to be safe and to speed up the dry time a bit
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Shouldn't be any oil on the back from heat treatment...heat should never be applied to the back of the bow. I would just wiper the back down with a little acetone to clean it up.
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Gut,
Thanks. What about degreasing the back of a stave? Is dish soap and water enough?
i use light sand paper then I take a hack saw blade and groove it long ways to get a good glue job
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Here's my hack-curve at 5" brace, currently 40#@ 20". Top limb is 1" longer and has 3/16 " positive tiller. Oh this is plan c.
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Stixs that looks good don't forget 26" draw 50lb oh ya left handed. Thanks
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Looks great stix...digging those curves
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Stix, that dog will hunt right there....very nice
rich
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Thanx guys, hopefully in the next couple days i'll be flingin arra's.
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Looking good stix!
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Pearly,
The bow in question was heat corrected with oil if I read correctly. I would make an effort to remove the oil in the treated area at least. Soap and water is good. After I usually hit it with denatured alcohol or acetone, just to be safe and to speed up the dry time a bit
That's right. Only the belly had any heat on it. The vegetable oil does get on the Back in the process, and that is what I want to remove. Think I will start with soap and water and then use a little alcohol.
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Stixs that looks good don't forget 26" draw 50lb oh ya left handed. Thanks
AhAhAh! Back up there Mr. Gut.
I think that one is coming my way brother 8)
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You guys are killing it, I'm lagging behind a little bit but I will catch up fast when I can get back after it. I'm having to rebuild my back fence right now - and rebuilding a 6 foot privacy fence by myself is time consuming and a bit tiring. I hope to have it done by this weekend or early next week though, and then its back to bow making.
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I'm with ya Sid, too many irons in the fire at the moment but we still got time.
My sinew is ready to tiller and then cover so wll be getting after it again soon.
Got to help the bison rancher skin out a bull last week and collected some parts that have me busy as a one legged man at a ass kickin contest. I shoulda took pictures but I was a little grubby ;D
I hope to keep on helping him with them when he slaughters.
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Went out and measured my BL stave/knot. The entire stave is 87", and that knot is around the 58" mark. I forgot to answer a question about it, it's completely sealed up on the back. Here's a close up of it on the back. As you can see, it really spreads wide from side to side.
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j14/GreyDrakkon/1stBlackLocustBow/MeasuredKnot_zpsvfkqy2kf.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/GreyDrakkon/media/1stBlackLocustBow/MeasuredKnot_zpsvfkqy2kf.jpg.html)
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Ranasp,
The knot on the belly side is under compression as the bow is bent....filing it with superglue etc should take care of the integrity issues. You may wish to get it closer to dimensions before gluing only to save glue.
rich
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[URL=http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/hawkdog04/media/Screen%20Shot%202016-01-20%20at%2012.03.19%20AM_zpss7bbndsa.png.html]
trying to figure photo bucket out 55@27 58 ntn (http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/hawkdog04/media/IMG_0526_zpsu7nav7sc.jpg.html)
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Hey Ranasp, If you came from the other end would the knot fall in the handle?
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Pincushion, that bow looks really good. Nice work.
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Here you go pincushin....
(http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u379/hawkdog04/IMG_0526_zpsu7nav7sc.jpg)
A quick way to do that is to copy the URL on the right side of the screen in Photobucket in the slot called "Direct"
Then paste that into your reply.
Then highlight that link you just pasted and click on the editor button above your reply on the left of the second row. It's a little yellowish picture right under the big B (bold) button in the first row. It will surround your ling with "IMG" tags -- telling the forum software the link is an image.
Check to make sure it works by hitting Preview. You should see your image inline.
Hope that helps!
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Hey Ranasp, If you came from the other end would the knot fall in the handle?
Only if I made the bow about 45" ;)
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You be better off using the knot as one of the nocks and making it 58 inches. ;)
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Well this blackthorn was gonna be plan c but when I started stripping the bark I found this
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/04/image2.jpeg)
the split is 20" from one end, 8" long and 24" from the other end. I think its toast, what do you think?
Stuck
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I wouldn't use it for a trade bow. It may seem like I dog every idea you have, but its with good intentions for you AND especially the guy that gets your offering. This isn't a time for experiments or gambling. Now is the time to build a rock solid bow that can be trusted. Build what you know and try not to get ahead of yourself.
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Hi PearlDrums, I don't feel like that at all, I post when I need help and advice and all advice is good advice. My own feeling is that this stick is not for a trade bow and if everyone agrees, so be it, but if I'm wrong and there is an alternative then it would be good to hear it. For instance, what if the billet were cut in half and the experience I have gained with take downs used so that the split could be designed out in the taper of a TD long bow? I have built long bows and pyramid bows so I know I can build a good solid one of them, but its the take-down thing that I am struggling to learn at the moment
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Build what you know best. Somebody else will be shooting it.
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I have to agree with PD on one aspect. This is not the time to try experimenting on a design you have not mastered. If you have the spare time that's fine by me. Your obligation here on this bow trade is to make the best bow you are capable of for your recipient.
Time to put away the experiments and get your trade bow finished and then back to the toys.
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Hi Fred,
as it happens, I'm off work for Easter so have a few hours here and there to play around with my options. My main problem is that my stock of seasoned timber is limited. Next year won't be a problem as I have stockpiled more than twenty staves through this last Autumn/Winter. Because I only have a half dozen staves ready to use this Spring I can't be too wasteful. My plan B is a really nice pair of hazel staves, Plan C is now a rather nice holly stave, and the former Plan C - the blackthorn - is now back in the log-pile.... The bow I send will be the very best bow I can build and will be thoroughly tested before its sent, but I am taking you at your word - this is a learning experience and a fun challenge to learn new skills and develop existing ones ;)
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Stuck if you need a seasoned stave I've got a sister Black Locus stave to my trade bow I can send you.
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Hi Gutshot, that's super generous but I have the staves I need, I just need to be a bit careful for the time being. Thanks all the same, really appreciate it,
Andrew
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(http://i.imgur.com/YUfax0R.jpg1)
(http://i.imgur.com/MDNiSD6.jpg?1)
Added some cork to round out the handle and then some rawhide over that to cover the cork and give me a little canvas for some kind of artwork.
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Looking real nice Ajooter, real nice.
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Yes it does! :)
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Very nice Ajooter. Now on to that art work. My name is spelled GUTSHOT. so you don't forget when your writing it on that bow.
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No offense Gut, but I don't think I could take a bow out hunting that had the word gutshot on the back. It just seems too much like asking for trouble. ;D
The American Hornbeam mollie is ready to hit the tiller tree. Unfortunately I dried it with the bark on because at the time I was sick of stripping bark. I think I cut, split, and debarked around ten 7' logs that day. AHB doesn't like to give up it's bark when it's fresh. Any ideas? My current plan is to run a thin strip of towel down the back and keep it wet for a couple hours to see if that helps. If that doesn't work, I'll just use a scraper and get as much as I can. As long as I get the bark off, I won't be too worried about the cambium. Most of my AHB bows have some left on it. I actually like the way it looks after staining, like a nice 2 tone camo.
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Nice looking bow ajooter. I like the handle work and the ripples in the bows back. Is it hhb?
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It's actually hickory Greg....thanks for comments guys. Getting close now. I hope to be shipping in a couple weeks.
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Well I got to this party a little late but add my name to the "really like" list sir
rich
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It's actually hickory Greg....thanks for comments guys. Getting close now. I hope to be shipping in a couple weeks.
I don't think we can ship yet. Fred hasn't gave us the ok. Unless I missed it.
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Your right gut I gotta check..I know my guy has been posting and looks like he's ready....but I don't know who "my" guy is so I guess I better wait...
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8) ajooter, you've done a fine job and you can ship to your guy whenever you're ready.
I haven't put an "okay to ship to list" together yet but will try to get that done shortly.
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Hey Fred have you received all 4 packages yet?
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Gutshot, I rec'd 3 of them. The one delivered by UPS from Dakota Kid was torn open so I had to inspect it while the driver was here to determine if there was any damage. :laugh: All was well!!!
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Thought ya might like the mans contribution sir !!!!! 8) 8) Guess ya might as well see what the others are since I would guess that the kitty is officially out of the bag 8) 8) >:D >:D
rich
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8) ajooter, you've done a fine job and you can ship to your guy whenever you're ready.
I haven't put an "okay to ship to list" together yet but will try to get that done shortly.
Fred, I'll be ready to ship in about a week.
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Love it B....that color is awesome!
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Yes it is! And yours is looking good too ajooter.
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next question for you guys.
I got the bow sanded up and the first coat of poly is drying, what handle wrap do you like? I've got thin leather lace and hemp.
I'm leaning towards the leather my self what do you guys like?
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/32CEFE26-1803-409B-9952-1AD8DF12C81A.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/32CEFE26-1803-409B-9952-1AD8DF12C81A.jpg.html)
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Leather is nice...but a good hemp wrapping all sealed up makes a great handle as well. I vote for hemp!
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If thats MY bow go for the hemp....even if it aint >:D Like Ajooter a good seal hemp wrap is good solid grip.
rich
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I agree, I like hemp too.
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Hemp, and that limb looks smooooothe.
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Plan B that's nice
Dylan. If it was me I would do a mixture of both. Start and end with leather and himp it in the middle
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I would say stain the leather dark for a nice contrast with that beautiful white finish on the limbs. It would totally stand out and if done right would be absolutely stunning.
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Thanks ajooter, Mitch, Gutshot. Dylan, I'd vote for hemp, too.
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I haven't worked on the bow in several days, but the dogwood is at floor tiller stage, still a little stiff, but I think close to being ready for long string.
There were some weird spots in the handle where it looked like maybe some old limbs or damage of some sort and I didn't want to leave those in the bow. I rasped this down to just over an inch thick and got most of it out. I got past any of the soft wood, when I poke it with a knife point, what is left is hard. I plan to flatten what is left and laminate some more wood to the handle. Do you guys see any problem with this?
Also, one limb has some bend to it. I am thinking it needs some heat adjustment now before I get into the string tiller stage... what do you guys think?
Michael
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Loope, I don't think the spot will be a problem if that's over an inch thick right there and you plan on adding another piece over it. Unless there's something hidden that extends down to near the back.
Rich gave me good advice not long ago here about steaming out a side bend, though mine wasn't as hard a bend as that one. Look back a few pages.
EDIT: Wow, back further than I thought -- this thread moves fast! Here it is:
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,55778.2265.html (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,55778.2265.html)
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Dang B that is wicked cool man!!! I got for the hemp too Dylan will look nice.
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Thanks Timothy!
I'm also having a hard time deciding about a handle wrap. If it was for myself I would leave it unwrapped because I really like the way that looks better on this one, and the handle feels really good to me. But I also want to please the person I'm sending it to. I do have on hand a number of kinds of wraps. And I've tried them in the past. Leaving it unwrapped just seems kind of ordinary to send somebody for a trade bow compared to the handles I've seen other people do. But I guess I like to make simple stuff. So, well, opinions, please.
ps. this preference has nothing to do with what I will truly appreciate in a bow somebody else sends me. I like all styles of bow and handles because they are other people's work and I appreciate those differences.
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I nice stitch leather handle wrap would be nice on that bow B. Some lighter leather to contrast the dark stain.
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imo ..... recipient is looking to receive bow that represents the style/look/feel of its maker.
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Mr. B,
Just one old guys opinion....so take with a grain of salt. All my bows (for myself) are made with no wrap at all. I hunt with mine and the weather up here is usually crappy so a plain bow with wax finish gives as good a grip as anything......It is personal preference of course, but I do not believe you are "shorting" your recipient by leaving it plain. Actually well made bows are just that....with or without lipstick 8) 8) 8)
rich
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I like them naked. :o
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(http://i.imgur.com/wGdzwGr.jpg?1)
Used my wood burner to touch the rawhide up a little
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Sweet looking AJooo
DBar
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Man thats very good looking to my eye ....and original and unique.
rich
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Man ajooter, that is super cool bud! What a unique and original idea. Not I'm jealous I opted out of the trade this year.
Hammer, it is OK to like how it's shooting. But there is pretty much a hinge in the upper limb that is doing about 85% of the work. Start scraping about 6 to 8 inches from the fade to about 6 inches from the tips. It won't take much to bring it around.
Patrick
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Ajooter, that looks great!
Thanks for the handle wrap opinions, guys.
Hammer, I think you need to work on that bow more -- only saying because you asked.
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OK thanks will get back to work-Hammertime
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Ajooter, now that's cool man. Nicely done.
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That's some nice raw hide burning there Ajooter.
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That really cool AJOOTER! I'm going on nights this month so I'll have a it more time to get b and c done. And I've got a few bows that a few guys at work want for next season. I'll be working my buns off!
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Damn Ajooter , that looks awesome! Can't wait to shoot it 😜
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Here's the hack-curve pullin 50# @ 27". One more inch to go. Been half draw shootin 'er , tomorrow gonna start really puttin it to the test. Gonna shoot the crap outta it before dollin 'er up.
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Yeah stix!!! That's getting it done brother!
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Stix, I like it.
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Looks nice stix!
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That tiller looks excellent Stix
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That;s pretty stix!
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Looks great man! Hackberry makes a nice bow.
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(http://i.imgur.com/kX0yRlr.jpg?1)
Started getting some finish on her...I'm loving the rawhide on the grip. Not only does the branding give a nice aesthetic touch but it feels pretty cool too.
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ajooter,
Very very nice sir 8) You know, dont you, that bow is as nice as any on the site, they may make different types but none are any bit nicer......you should be real proud of that bow.
rich
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Thank you rich that means a lot coming from you. I can't wait to get it to my guy I know he will like it.
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Really fine bow, ajooter!
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Ajooter, that baby just keeps gettin nicer and nicer. Great stuff.
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Double posting, but I have to add one more thing -- it's also a great idea, really creative. You can't carve relief on the back of a bow, but by adding rawhide to cover a handle swell in back, and burning/incising, you've opened that possibility up. You've kept it local where the weight won't hurt performance and actually strengthened the handle back. Everything about it is smart. I like it very much. Good on ya!
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Stix,
Guess I better pay closer attention as well....meant to comment that bend is a real beauty bud....that is what a "recurve" should look like sir.
rich
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Ajooter wow the raw hide burning the finish work that's just super nice. Can't wait to see the finish product with all the great pics of it. Great job
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Jeeesh guy's your going to put the A-team out of business with these beauties... Nice curves Stix and brilliant idea on the rawhide ajooter...I guarantee we will see some more burning on rawhide in the future...
Don
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thanx for the comments everyone. Ajooter i still can't get over that rawhide burn, too cool.
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Stix when I look at your full draw photo again, I think there's enough beauty there for me to be satisfied with the aesthetics, no matter what else got added later. I know it ain't over til it's over. Just sayin..... real good to look at!
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Stix, that is looking real good.
Ajooter, wow. Every once in awhile I see an idea on this site that I love and realize I need to try that. Your idea is one of them. It is something I haven't seen before. What a great way to decorate a rawhide backed bow. Beautiful.
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Cool handle treatment with the rawhide ajooter, looks great.
That hackberry curve looks real nice Stix.
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ajooter, nice that looks real great ;D
stix, that is a great looking tiller :D
here's just a quick teaser on my trade bow >:D more pics later today when the sealer sets up completely
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/653B6ED4-58EB-42CE-B00F-B32DDC7BF491.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/653B6ED4-58EB-42CE-B00F-B32DDC7BF491.jpg.html)
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Is that the rest dylan?! That's cool as hell!
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Oh sure Dylan.....make us all drool >:D
rich
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Started getting some finish on her...I'm loving the rawhide on the grip. Not only does the branding give a nice aesthetic touch but it feels pretty cool too.
Nice,nice! How thick(wide) is the handle?
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(http://i.imgur.com/ZsBc5nA.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/ohAiuya.jpg?1)
Started the ebonizing process. I've been practicing on scrap pieces of wood and I think it gives the grain an amazing appearance.
DC the handle isn't very wide, maybe 1 to 3/4 of an inch and relatively bulbous.
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look out folks things are really startin to heat up around here :). Ajooter what the hell do you think your doin?(lol) your bringin the heat my man. And Dylan can't wait to see that all done.
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That's awesome ajooter! A cant wait to see the he rest of it Dylan
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(http://i.imgur.com/gSWUFyl.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/MUKK7wo.jpg?1)
Did some wrapping at my transition areas. May highlight the handle a little with some paint...really make that pattern pop. I'm getting to the point where I'm going to have to name this girl...any suggestions fellas?
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Whoever get's that bow is gonna be one happy s.o.b
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No help on the name sir.....but that grip is very elegant as is, it really dont need any "pop" it's just plain classy like an engraved double 8) 8) 8)
rich
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Thanks for all the comments fellas...been a fun ride for sure!
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Gah!!!! >:( >:( >:( >:( :'(
Had all the pics taken was fixing the brace height and snapped off the bottom nock :'(
Still though I'm glad this happened now instead off in my guys hands. I'm all ready getting the tips reglued I should have pics up late tonight or tomorrow afternoon.
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/250295E9-1854-459B-9997-B83465BA5B8D.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/250295E9-1854-459B-9997-B83465BA5B8D.jpg.html)
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Wow. What type of glue did you use on that?
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superglue, i think it has plenty of strength but like most glues its weak against shear forces ???
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Here is a yew update--Rawhide is on and trimmed. This is the first bend since adding the hooks in. I am always surprised at how much weight that adds. Of course I can't pull it near as far, and I need to work on the outer limbs. I am loving this stave, and I will look forward to getting some more yew someday. This one is going out to someone. Of course I will have to shoot it some to make sure it is safe. . .
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Super glue or any CA glue is too brittle for that application IMO. I lost a bunch of field points once cause I used CA glue on them. It's ferrule glue or good old hot glue stick for points now. I use CA glue on splinters/ cracks and fletchings, and if I happen to get a good cut from a razor.
Get a hold of some titebond II or III. I've never had an issue and I've been using it for nocks for several years.
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Like kid said tb3 would be good. Make sure you clean the glue off both surfaces thoroughly. I like to use the overlay like a mini sanding block that way the surfaces mate up pretty nicely.
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Dylan Tite bond 3 is all I use. But it looks like your bow its self had a flaw it it to break. I've seen the tip overlays break off with super glue but the bow be ok.
Jeff that yew is looking good. I'm glad you have my address!!
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Superglue also has poor shock resistance. I use it for a temporary turner's cement when machining parts which can't otherwise be clamped. Give the part a rap with a brass hammer in the right direction when finished, and the part pops right off. Washers can be faced on the lathe faceplate this way. I've even milled a tractor engine head that way. No problem separating the head.
Superglue is great for some things, but it has limitations. And dylan if you're thinking of re attaching that tip, with its butt joint unchanged, only an epoxy will knit those fibers with any amount of integrity. Tb3 is fine for clean flat wood surfaces. Maybe you're planning to remake the joint entirely, in which case, no problem. Sorry, just opinions here.
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Jeff, that's a beauty! I bet it will shoot great.
Re. my trade bow, I was able to put another hundred arrows through it yesterday. Raining all day today, so can't shoot in more til tomorrow.
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Hey all. Just checking in - I'm in a holding pattern on my bow until I can get my fence finished up. We got a little dog recently, and the friggin thing is like a sapper - she found every single spot in my yard that had a loose fence slat and exploited it. SO, I got to get that fence done first. I hope to get it knocked out this week though, and then my to-do list will be short enough that I can work the bow back into it. I'm not slacking on it, I'm just buried under have to fix stuff now.
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I got a little more done on the sinew backed ERC molle. I got it cleaned up a bit and it's first stringing since gluing down the sinew. I got it to full brace and found that even though the levers are 3/4" thick tapering to 5/8" at te tip, they still bend. So before I go any further I'm going to cut the levers in half and insert an 1/8" wedge of a more stiff wood and see if that'll help. I'm leaning towards cherry since it should be more stiff and still not add a lot of mass compared to other woods I have available. I may temper the cherry wedge before I insert it so it'll be a bit more stiff.
Kyle
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Dylan, chin up and move on, it could've been alot worse. Jeff that yew sure is purty.
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(http://i.imgur.com/TvzobZe.jpg?1)
Starting laying some shellac down. That ebonizing/aging effect looks even better with a little shine to it. I tried a lot of new things with this bow, but I experimented with scraps before going right to the bow. It definitely made a difference.
One of my least favorite things to do is letter a bow. I read one of Gordon's posts and saw that his wife does his lettering. If I let my gf do it, it would look like a 5 yr old wrote on the bow. I will be experimenting with a couple different types of pens and media on some scraps before laying down the final print.
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Ajooter what the heck. This bow will be a show piece! What type of wood is that again? I like the detail of the wood grain on the fades. Looks real good and even
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Writing on a bow is my least favorite thing to, but I figure since I made it I should sign it. That sure is pretty jooter!
Patrick
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My writing is unreadable so I made a woodburning stamp with my initials on it. I get that on crooked :-[ :-[
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Nice bow ajooter, and what are you vaping? Unless of course that 18650 battery is for a flashlight, in that case ignore me, lol.
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A lot of my bows in the past are unsigned because I thought it made it look crappy. I recently bought a caligraphy pen and black acrylic ink. I practiced on some paper and then some past unsigned bows. My caligraphy skills came back pretty quickly (I had learned caligraphy in elementary school). I think I am now ready to sign my trade bow.
Ajooter, what did you use for your wrapping material on the ends of your rawhide? I have to do something similar on my trade bow and I want it to be dark like yours.by the way, that bow is really looking beautiful.
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The bow is hickory...handle lam from the bottom up is zebrwood...bloodwood and purpleheart. Tips overlays are antler.
Wrappings are I believe just a thin leather..maybe kangaroo leather..I get it for hobby lobby.
Urufu haha...yeah I'm vaping..trying to quit smoking. I do have a headlamp I can use the batteries for too ;)
I may try to use my wood burner along the fades for the signing will see.
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Some exceptional work going on here crew. Sorry about my hiatus the past few days. I caught a severe case of sinusitis and haven't been able to sleep or stay awake and certainly wasn't capable of any comprehensive correspondence.
There are a handful of unscrupulous individuals who kept sending me packages and I think all of the stress related to them caused this terrible system imbalance. I think I'd have been fine if they would have allowed me to open them as they arrived but of course that wouldn't satisfy their rules. Thus I became anxious and it no doubt affected my blood pressure and other facilities keeping my body in balance.
Anyway, the final package arrived today and after opening them I immediately began feeling much better. It's utterly amazing what relieving built up stress and worry can do to improves ones psyche.
All of you involved in this completely outdid yourselves. I don't believe I've ever had a finer gift and
appreciate your generosity. Hopefully this slide show will work and then I will post some accolades and further information.
Thank you very much!!!!
http://s190.photobucket.com/user/Bowferd/slideshow/2016%20Primitive%20Archer%20Bow%20Trade
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I don't see anything fred :(
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Wow - those were some nice packages!!! Very nice gentlemen!!!
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Jeff - the yew is looking great!
Dylan - sorry to see the tip give on your bow. Looks to me like the wood had to give first and then the glue. I do know a lot of guys use superglue and many don't have issues. Personally I don't like using it on overlays on wooden bows. I just don't get my surfaces to join up close enough. I use smooth on epoxy - it fills some minor gaps - and have never had an overlay come off. Good luck with it!
Mitch
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Gee Mr. Fred...."unscrupulous" well sir, I resemble that remark 8) hope ya like them enough to hunt them, they will look better with hair, blood and fat all over.
rich
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Fred, you got yourself some very nice packages right there.
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I'm trying to get my wits together so that I can do a little write up on what and who but my head just won't cooperate with me yet. I'm still all stuffed up inside with headaches to boot.
I will say that I've made and sold a lot of arrows in my time and this set is nicer than anything I've ever made or owned. Hours and hours of skilled labor went into this endeavor from everyone involved.
I can't thank you all enough. You all know who you are and I'll let everyone else know shortly.
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Nice gifts Fred. Those should be good hunting weapons.
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NOW I see everything! That's a great set for sure! Congratulations fred!
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Awesome hunting equipment right there 8) 8) 8) Outstanding gesture guys...Congrats Fred
Don
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(http://i.imgur.com/frFYzu4.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/2XQQE02.jpg?1)
Got the area ready for my rest. I'll rough it up good with some sandpaper make sure my glue joint is still good. I was going to use a thick super glue but I decided to mix up a little smooth on for the adhesive. It's what I used for my tips overlays so it should be fine. Once I get the rest adhered I use some tiny files to lightly round the edges over.
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Fred, really sorry to hear about the sinusitis. I've had a few bouts with that and it is NO fun. Hope you're better quickly. Maybe all those fine gifts will chase away the headache.
Ajooter, looking sweet man. Keep us posted with that one.
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Fred,
I feel your pain with the sinuses. I've had a pretty crooked nose ever since I can remember which limits my airflow to one nostril. I was plagued with sinus infections my whole life. If you haven't resorted to antibiotics yet, I recommended mixing 1 tbs of apple cider vinegar into a tall(16 oz) water and drinking that at least twice a day. Don't take the vinegar straight, staying hydrated is half the cure. Plus raw vinegar can really mess your guts up.
PS One good turn deserves another. I'm glad you like the package. I certainly am enjoying the fruits of your labor being the organizer and all. Thanks again for stepping up.
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Fred, It seems like your generosity is paying off, Congrats!
This is what Fred sent me:
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8331.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8331.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8332.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8332.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8335.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8335.jpg.html)
A real nice Black walnut stave that I'm very excited about. I decided to not use the Lilac anymore, it developed cracks from the steaming I did so I didn't want to use it.
Sorry for the lack of participation lately, partially because I've been out of a stave but also had some storm damage on the house and went to AZ for some time. If you guys ever go to southern AZ check out Chiricahua national forest!(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_8271.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_8271.jpg.html)
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Ajooter looks good I've done the same rest on a Osage bow 2 yrs ago. I used TBIII and dowels. Here is a pic of it
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The dowels are a good idea gut. Since the smooth on worked do good for tips I'm gonna go with that for now. Put a nice leather strike plate on it and then all I have to do is put my order in for a string! ;)
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Fred, some great presents from some great guys. Ajooter , your puttin that arrow pass on the wrong side ;)
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Ajooter , your puttin that arrow pass on the wrong side ;)
What a shame, I guess since I shoot with a thumb ring then I could......lol
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Stixs it looks to me Ajooter has that rest on the correct side for a south paw.
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You guys are seeing things...been into the shwag again! >:D
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Huh, looks I was right about the boxes for Fred being filled with snakes. ;D
Ajooter, that bow...Wow. Whoever gets that bow will lose their mind!
So I've managed to bring down the entire stave to about 1" deep, which seems to have the added bonus of untwisting it a bit. I'll take some pics when I get home and work out the shape of the bow coming out of it, I'll definitely need help with that since right now I have so many options I don't know where to start.
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Alright, I just wanted to throw this out there. When I posted my stats I said I shot right handed. For the record I can shoot left handed too. A few years ago I taught myself to shoot both left handed. I found it can come in handy in a tree stand. I have even arrowhead a buck left handed. The reason I am saying this is to let Ajooter know I am fine with his mistake of putting the rest on the wrong side. ;) ;)
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Good one Swampman. But we all know who is truly LH on here and that would be me, hammer time,and pincushion. Oh ya half eye said he didn't care which handed he got LOL😃😃😃 but as clever as Ajooter is I'm sure he reversed the pic to get at all of us. Isn't that right Ajooter?
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Ya know....I guess you will just have to wait and see :-X
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Sorry Fred and (gift guys) but I can't see the slideshow of your swag, so I'll just have to imagine and say congrats! And you guys generosity is a fine thing. :)
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Gut I'm anything but clever.
(http://i.imgur.com/86gRG1y.jpg?1)
Swampman...I've tried shooting lefty with limited success. I may have to practice more.
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Looky there Swampman, Ajooter made that bow a RH NOW. who knows where that bow is going. But I can tell you one thing somebody is gonna be a very happy person. Great job
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Looky there Swampman, Ajooter made that bow a RH NOW. who knows where that bow is going. But I can tell you one thing somebody is gonna be a very happy person. Great job
Yep, I am back in the running! Ajooter - are you magic? ???
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Swampman...I've tried shooting lefty with limited success. I may have to practice more.
[/quote]
Ajooter, I am certainly not a great shot with my left hand, but I can hit a deer at 10 yards. It feels real awkward at first but with a lot of practice it is not too bad.
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These bows are all looking great! I am a little slow this past week, not by choice though. Heading to a funeral this weekend, and fighting with a migraine. I didn't feel good tonight, but made myself go out to the shop to do some work. It really does a body good. I didn't get much done, but scrounged around some wood to make my steaming box to straighten the limb on the dogwood. Ready to steam now and see what I can do.
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You guys and your right and left handed nonsense. If it doesn't match up for you, just flip her upside down and boom!!! Now it does. >:D
I've actually put strike plates and pad rests on both sides of the handle on the same bow before, knowing that the bow would be passed around on camping trips and picnics. I figured sooner or later a south paw would come along and wouldn't want them to feel left out. (no pun intended).
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Sorry Fred and (gift guys) but I can't see the slideshow of your swag, so I'll just have to imagine and say congrats! And you guys generosity is a fine thing. :)
I just posted my contribution in the arrows forum, so you can at least see those.
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Alright! The entire thing is about 1" thick, and over 2" wide except at one end where I started knocking it down. I know I should take the belly down even further on the limbs, but I wanted to figure out where the grip will be before doing that, plus then I can remove more material from the sides.
I used a pencil and picked a grain and followed it the best I could, took a picture and realized nobody can see that kind of thing on a photo so I used a program to paint some lines. The bottom line is at about 64", the line above it that's solidly in the knot is at 58". The corresponding colors in the middle of the stave show where the middle is relative to those two points. Do you think I should stick with 64", or would it be less risky for someone with as little experience as I not deal with the knot and just make a shorter Black Locust bow?
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j14/GreyDrakkon/1stBlackLocustBow/StaveLine_zpsmghapfqt.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/GreyDrakkon/media/1stBlackLocustBow/StaveLine_zpsmghapfqt.jpg.html)
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Ranasp do this same thing again but start at the bottom and let us see where that knot falls in the limb. It looks like it should be real close to the handle area. Make sure you mark the center part again and also mark the 4" down from center each way that will show us your handle and fade area so we can see the knot in conjunction with the handle.
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Ranasp, a 58" bendy handle would work and might be easier to tiller.
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Ranasp after looking at that knot some more. If it's on the side on the belly of the bow then you might be able to take it out in the design of your bow. Let's see a pic of the belly side of the knot since you got it cleaner
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I got the tempered cherry wedges glued into the levers today. Even though the levers are 3/4" thick they were still flexing. So I figured I'd insert a more suff yet still light wood into the levers. I just gotta let it cure then clean it up. Once I get the bow cleaned up to my satisfaction I'll put a thread wrap around the levers to assist the glue line in holding them together since the glue line isn't the greatest. im getting excited to see how this one will shoot. Just as brace it feels snappy to me. Some of the knota have me a little worried, but I'm confident in it holding together.
Kyle
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What kind of glue did ya use cooncatcher?
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I used TB3 and clamped it with bike tire inner tubes. Not the best glue for what I'm doing with it, but I'm hoping I'll have enough contact surface to hold. Once I clean it up if it doesn't look good I'll take it apart and get some good epoxy. Right now it looks like it's good a good enough glue line that with some decorative wrapping Itll hold up fine. I plan to cover the sinew with carp skin and will thread wrap the seam. So might as well make the thread pull triple duty. Hold/cover the sinew skin edge, hold the lever together, and be decorative.
Kyle
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That should hold up just fine. After you clean it up I'm sure it will look great!
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Kyle, how long are those wedges and are they going to extend past the levers? Should look good finished up.
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They're going to be clipped even with the levers end I stopped the cut at the start of where the lever fades o the working limb. I think the levers are about 10", without taking a tape to them. There's going to be quite a bit of the wedges left after cutting them flush.
Kyle
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Started laying out an ELB for plan b, currently 68" ttt but I've got this going on 6" from one end, before I pike it, what do you all think?(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/04/image4.jpeg)
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/04/image5.jpeg)
Black lines are showing the grain run
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If that's a stave you shouldn't see any runout as it appears. That will be a challenging stave for an elbow b? What are the stats on the stave...how wide is it?
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Currently 35mm at centre tapering to 25mm at the tips for width, constant 22mm depth. This is the only run out, grain pretty straight for remaining length of the stave. Couple of small knots to keep things interesting but nothing else as gnarly as the ones in the photo. Stave had 4" deflex but responds really well to heat as its holly and is nearly straight, one more heat session should see it ready to profile properly. Target weight is over 40 less than 50 at 28 draw
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If that's a stave and the lower pic shows the back of the bow then there shouldn'the be a runout. Sometimes pictures are hard to get a read on.
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Not the whole stave, the photo only shows the 6 inches at one end where there is a pair of knots cutting diagonally from the belly and through the side, the rest of the stave is good except for an inch long shake I need to cut off at the other end
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Stuck - are we looking at the side of the stave in the pics? I am confused? ??? If it is the side, what are the pencil markings?
Mitch
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Stuck
I've seen a lot of wood in my day...Not to sound like a jerk, but I don't think you are accurately following the grain...If it's the last 6", make a bow...
Don
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I'm like Don cut that last 6" off and make a 62" bow.
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Guys I'm gonna be out of town for the next 3 days. Alabama crappie fishing trip. They said I want have no service so post a lot so I will have something to do when I get back.
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Nice gut...full that freezer up....or gorge yourself on crappies!! I'll message you with string length later. I'm in no big hurry.
I think you could get rid of those last 6" too but that also depends on the wood I'm sure. I have never worked with holly so I'm not much help in knowing the characteristics of that particular wood.
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Now gutshot.....that's just plain mean buddy.....I still got snow on the ground, and your goin crappie fishin, damn >:D good luck to ya and pack a bunch away sir.
rich
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Stuck - are we looking at the side of the stave in the pics? I am confused? ??? If it is the side, what are the pencil markings?
Mitch
I think he's cut through the growth rings around the knots(not that there's anything wrong with that) and then pencilled the growth rings. That's why they're all over the place
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Dogwood is on the steamer... going to try to straighten somewhat tonight.
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Here is plan d. This is black locust again. I think it is close to 60 pounds draw but I haven't measured it yet.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/7D15B0C4-5985-4634-BEB5-DBA4B386E82F_zpscolhtr87.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/7D15B0C4-5985-4634-BEB5-DBA4B386E82F_zpscolhtr87.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/DAF45339-1D48-49B2-A3BF-BC4BCC4AA83C_zpsnu1sflrl.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/DAF45339-1D48-49B2-A3BF-BC4BCC4AA83C_zpsnu1sflrl.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/454C2F19-E411-4D6F-81D6-A8CE423D8BE5_zpseky5vwie.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/454C2F19-E411-4D6F-81D6-A8CE423D8BE5_zpseky5vwie.jpg.html)
The wraps are to cover up a tear in the snake skin. It was a snake that had been run over a few times so there was some damage. I did the best I could to line everything up on the bow but everything just looks a little off to me.
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Stuck - are we looking at the side of the stave in the pics? I am confused? ??? If it is the side, what are the pencil markings?
Mitch
I think he's cut through the growth rings around the knots(not that there's anything wrong with that) and then pencilled the growth rings. That's why they're all over the place
Thanks DC. Then I agree - cut it off. :laugh:
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Lookin good swampman...did we see her bend yet?
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No other pictures of this bow yet. I have been slacking on taking pictures. I will see if I can get a full draw picture taken this weekend.
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Lookin good just the same....those raps came out nice!
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Swamp - I dig it. Looks sharp for road kill.
Stuck- Do a Bobbit, cut off the knotty bits.
Gut- Salt the skins and try to make some glue. I've been saving my perch. I bet crappie would work fine. That has to be one of the best tricks ever played, calling something that tastes so good "crappie".
I shot my plan b bow last night. It feels light to me, but I have got the scale out yet. It's gotta be close though. I also gave the stubborn rock elm another heat correction. I'll shoot it tonight and see if it takes this time.
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Plan B and Rich, Thanks....
The dogwood moved great with steam and a small box trick! I somehow had missed that post. So thanks Plan B for pointing it out and thanks Rich for originally posting it. It straightened right up with just a little working. Now let it sit for a while. This trick works so great, it is definitely going in my memory banks.
Michael
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Thanks guys, will cut the section off
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Stuck,
Keep in mind that the last 6" on that ELB probably wont bend, I'm a fan of stiff tips though, JMHO...I could post you some examples if you would like...
Don
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Loope,
I'm sure glad that worked out for you sir.
rich
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Loope...all Rich's doin'!
Shot in my trade bow for the last 3 days. About 300 arrows total. I did add a handle wrap after all and floppy rest. Then added the final few planned details I can't show or it will give the recipient away. Bow has performed flawlessly. I can't see set after unstringing. Profile is as tillered. Draw weight has stayed the same over the whole time. Lots of initial string tension. Just about ready to send to a good home.
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As promised, here are some picks of my road kill bow bending.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/0939F29A-C626-419A-A04F-9F5F8C440D8A_zpsvanfsoth.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/0939F29A-C626-419A-A04F-9F5F8C440D8A_zpsvanfsoth.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/61411676-E079-48BC-8818-729243C277CD_zpsibaezbwr.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/61411676-E079-48BC-8818-729243C277CD_zpsibaezbwr.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/0CFB06AA-E655-4604-9FD5-34FDC3C9F36C_zpskryixiva.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/0CFB06AA-E655-4604-9FD5-34FDC3C9F36C_zpskryixiva.jpg.html)
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That looks awesome Bro! That's a sweet bend! How long is that bow?
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Looks good swamp.
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8) 8) 8)
rich
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This bow is 62 inches ttt
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Swamp,
Loving them stiff outers bud, bend looks balanced and the skins are a plus... 8)
Don
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Thanks Don.
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62"...I bet she's a snappy Lil devil!
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I know I been absent from this trade mostly. It has been a crappy year so far with my sister and dads deaths and now the wife and I are gonna call it quits before summer's over. Don't mean to sound like an old country tune but that is the way it is. The dogs are healthy at least ;)
If I am not around here a lot you know why. And don't you go thinkin I won't be finishing the trade bow on time. It's gonna get done!
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DuBois, sounds like some tough times. Building bows is good medicine. Take care and I wish you the best.
Mike
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Well, after struggling with a bad case of a chest cold and a sinus infection, I got to cracking on my bow. Unfortunately, that's what happened as I was working on it (well, more like breaking than cracking). It's just a minor setback, as it was the core lam that broke on me as I was trying to form it into a recurve shape. I have more material to make another tapered core, but my problem right now is time. Work is starting to pile more onto my plate and the final orchestra concert of the year is looming. So instead of using the precious time I have now to try to get back to where I was on the trilam, I've decided to fall back on a more tried-and-true style for myself. Now, I do want to finish this trilam for my bow trade victim, but I know I can get a board bow bending within a few days time, so that's what I'll be working on now. I have some long overdue vacation coming at the end of May, so that's when I'll really focus on the trilam. But for now... here's some pictures of plan C!
(http://i.imgur.com/asqJinH.jpg)
I went to the local hardware store and saw this interesting piece of hickory. It was the straightest I could find, but it has an interesting pattern. There's a knot that disrupted the grain, so I couldn't just make an easy-peasy board bow without having one limb having a fair amount of runoff.
(http://i.imgur.com/QVQvrtN.jpg)
However, on either side of the knot, the grain straightened out long enough to get enough length for a proper sized limb plus some change for a splice.
(http://i.imgur.com/owO4Os3.jpg)
So after cutting the limbs out and roughing out the limb profile, I spliced them together! I plan on using the heartwood part of the board for a handle and tip overlays, so it'll be neat to have that nice contrast from the same piece of hickory (plus smelling the heartwood as I worked on it made me hungry for some smoked brisket! mmmm).
So I just glued the splice together tonight. My plan is to finish cutting out the outline of the bow and get the handle section glued on tomorrow, then cut out/rasp the limbs to the proper thickness on Sunday, then get the bow on the tillering tree Monday.
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Stuck,
Keep in mind that the last 6" on that ELB probably wont bend, I'm a fan of stiff tips though, JMHO...I could post you some examples if you would like...
Don
yes please Don that'd be really helpful
Andrew
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Stuck,
Keep in mind that the last 6" on that ELB probably wont bend, I'm a fan of stiff tips though, JMHO...I could post you some examples if you would like...
Don
yes please Don that'd be really helpful
Andrew
Stuck here's a few examples of stiff outers, hardly if any bending last 4-6"...Did you already pike your stave?
Don
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Dang Don, do you know how to make a UNEVEN bend? Them are some fine lookin bends sir 8)
rich
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I would take any one of those Don. I didn't quite nail the tiller on this one. Rich mentioned the bottom fade being stiff early on....it still is. The top limb is 1.5 longer then the bottom limb. I got in too much of a hurry to finish. On a positive note the bow shoots very well and has good cast. Holds its original wonky profile and has taken hardly any set. I will make a nicer bend on the next one.
(http://i.imgur.com/uT9UhDT.jpg?1)
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Thanks Rich, and yea I've made a few hockey sticks...But we ain't allowed to post those >:D >:D >:D
Don
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I just read your post rich....my thoughts exactly!! Makin us all feel inadequate! ;D
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Ajoot,
Looks balanced buddy and as long as it shoots good for ya, your on the money...A pretty tiller isn't always correct...Thanks for the compliment sir...
Don
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Don, all of those bows look great. I bet they are a joy to shoot.
Ajooter, that stiff fade is just slightly stiff to my untrained eye. I think it looks really good and if it shoots well then I would say it is great. That is what is important.
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man i take a couple days off and the place blows up. Don, all those look great. Swamp, that baby looks like a rocket launcher. Ajooter, aint nothin wrong there.
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I know I can get a board bow bending within a few days time, so that's what I'll be working on now.
(http://i.imgur.com/asqJinH.jpg)
However, on either side of the knot, the grain straightened out long enough to get enough length for a proper sized limb plus some change for a splice.
(http://i.imgur.com/owO4Os3.jpg)
So after cutting the limbs out and roughing out the limb profile, I spliced them together! I plan on using the heartwood part of the board for a handle and tip overlays, so it'll be neat to have that nice contrast from the same piece of hickory.
Looks like you're gonna get max use from that piece of wood! Heartwood handle piece should be nice contrast ... particularly if ya can incorporate that knot.
Splicing at handle is something I gotta have a go at.
Good luck!
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Looks like you're gonna get max use from that piece of wood! Heartwood handle piece should be nice contrast ... particularly if ya can incorporate that knot.
Splicing at handle is something I gotta have a go at.
Good luck!
Well, do what you can, with what you have, where you are! I'm going to steer clear of that knot for now, but I might use it in a future project.
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So I did as suggested with measuring from the end closest to the knot and...Huh. My sense of perspective must have been WAY off just because of the length of the entire stave, because it doesn't look nearly as badly located as I thought it would. The picture shows where the exact center falls when the length is either 64" (the squiggle to the furthest right of the knot) or 59" (the one closer to the middle of the knot). There's a distance of 2 1/2" between them, which means the bulge of the knot isn't all that far away from them.
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j14/GreyDrakkon/1stBlackLocustBow/BLstaveCenterAtKnot_zpsaadr7dg1.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/GreyDrakkon/media/1stBlackLocustBow/BLstaveCenterAtKnot_zpsaadr7dg1.jpg.html)
Next two pictures show the knot I dug out (pretty much smack in the middle) and how deep it ended up being (not all that bad, really)
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j14/GreyDrakkon/1stBlackLocustBow/BLstaveKnotDugOut_zpsv3ldwy4r.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/GreyDrakkon/media/1stBlackLocustBow/BLstaveKnotDugOut_zpsv3ldwy4r.jpg.html)
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j14/GreyDrakkon/1stBlackLocustBow/BLstaveKnotDepth_zpsppv6hb7w.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/GreyDrakkon/media/1stBlackLocustBow/BLstaveKnotDepth_zpsppv6hb7w.jpg.html)
I'm starting to think it actually isn't such a bad idea to move the knot to the center of the bow, unless someone can tell me why that would be a bad idea.
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if your gonna have a knot like that, in the middle is where ya want it :)
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I need some advice. The string on my yew stave is tracking right on the edge of the handle. It was always shading that way, but as I start to add brace height, it is moving just a little more. Problem is, I have the rawhide attached with hide glue on the back--otherwise this would be easy to fix with some heat. If I put the handle on my knee, it takes very little pressure to move the string the 1/2 inch or so to the middle of the handle.
Ideas on what to do?
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Steam that baby jeff...Gordon does it in his buildalongs..works like a charm!
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Jeff,
If the issue increases as you add string height I would suspect the limbs have a strong and weak side. I cant see your bow but there is the possibility that one side of each limb is a little stronger than the other side. If that is the case then what happens is as you draw the bow the strength difference shows up more as the string comes back. Usually the string will track to the strong side but a thickness check will confirm or rule out this POSSIBLE condition.
Not saying that is the problem but is one possibility.
rich
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Steam that baby jeff...Gordon does it in his buildalongs..works like a charm!
can't steam--rawhide is already on the back and steam would take it back off.
Assuming there isn't a strong and weak side as rich suggests, would leaving it clamped overnight without heat do me any good?
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Jeff,
If it moves quite easily perhaps you could clamp it straight....belly up...and heat the belly side of the grip, not a serious treatment but just a little to help persuade it to stay. Mabe an old rag under the bow to protect from wrap around heat.....just an idea.
rich
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Jeff,
Maybe you could use side nocks to move the string closer to center?
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(http://i.imgur.com/EHmecbZ.jpg)
Handle section, check. The splice also turned out pretty good, too. That Smooth On is a great adhesive!
I've got my morning cleared to hit the shaping tomorrow. Hopefully by the end of the day it will look more like a bow!
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I ended up protecting the back with layers of tape and holding a roll of paper towels to the back to protect it while I heated with oil and a heat gun. I figured my hand would get too hot before the back did. I managed to move the handle about 3/8 of an inch, which will be enough. I like this yew. I wish I had more. Gutshot and I were discussing what a generous gift this was from Fred for me to work. I think my victim is going to enjoy it if it continues to hold together.
I got the tiller out to about 20" today and to a low brace. It is coming along.
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I haven't had much time for bow work lately but I sure am enjoying all the work you guys are posting. Hopefully I can get back at it before too long.
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finally happy with the new tips ;D and these ones will never come off >:D
tip over/underlays are yew and osage(that wont get my in trouble will it >:D)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/9F514080-6E64-41A2-934D-253A97E3EC9A.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/9F514080-6E64-41A2-934D-253A97E3EC9A.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/A1DC85B6-96B2-4ECC-A31E-942826AC4F77.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/A1DC85B6-96B2-4ECC-A31E-942826AC4F77.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/F7EBDE04-C305-4C3D-9840-F2A872A8F809.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/F7EBDE04-C305-4C3D-9840-F2A872A8F809.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/9E2CCEC8-B113-44B1-A4F4-200B31FC558B.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/9E2CCEC8-B113-44B1-A4F4-200B31FC558B.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/159049DB-44E7-4AFC-8085-3B5631D8DB29.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/159049DB-44E7-4AFC-8085-3B5631D8DB29.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/66577145-B1A2-4618-A183-1773D4609478.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/66577145-B1A2-4618-A183-1773D4609478.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/3B49C33F-CE8A-45B5-818B-46162375E86F.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/3B49C33F-CE8A-45B5-818B-46162375E86F.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/0053C53D-E39F-4C6B-A350-BED17FE1303E.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/0053C53D-E39F-4C6B-A350-BED17FE1303E.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/5BD307EE-7A0F-4445-93E5-2ED638D41B58.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/5BD307EE-7A0F-4445-93E5-2ED638D41B58.jpg.html)
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You've come a long way in a short time, Dylan. 8) That's a cool looking bow!
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i agree with Pat, that is one cool lookin bow. what kinda wood ,again?
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Dylan: That's a pretty sweet fix and a cool bow! What wood was that again?
It's a super nice day in Mpls and finally I could start working on the black walnut stave Fred sent over. I ran into something I thought I'd ask about before going to far. As I worked the layers of bark I got to this tan surface, it was an 1/8 of an inch on one side of the stave and none or maybe paper thin on the other side. It's harder than the other layers before this but I just want to make sure I'm still taking this off to until I get to the white wood? The different thickness of it confused me.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_00541.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_00541.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_00481.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_00481.jpg.html)
Right side of the stave with layer.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_00501.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_00501.jpg.html)
Left side without layer
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I ran into one of the sister staves like that but it wasn't as dominant. I think that's cambium directly under the bark.
Dylan, fantastic job. I'm super impressed and know someone that's going to be elated. Also as soon as you've played with it to your satisfaction you can ship before you get to attached. :laugh:
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Cool, then I'll go back out to it.
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Joachim, that cambium makes a great looking back but I don't know how strong it is. You might PM Gundoc because he's made more black walnut bows than anyone I know. The first one I made turned out excellent but I didn't leave that much on.
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I'm taking it off. If I'd to back it I'd need to right?
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That looks great dylan...I love the way the pith shows up on the belly. Those tip overlays should work out for ya now!
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Just got caught up on all the posts. Looks like a lot of work have gotten done.
Swampman BL looks great. Love the roadkill skins
ajooter that bend looks great
Ranasp I like the knots. Put them in the center of the limb and rock on.
jeffp51 that Yew is looking good. Did you get that string where you wanted it.
Dylan like those tips very unique
janderson id take it down to the white wood. I've been eye balling me a walnut tree to cut.
Fred you told Dylan to ship when he is ready. Did I miss something on here about shipping?
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You might have :) :) Let me look at your victim and I'll let you know.
Yeahy!! Your good to go. You can ship anytime you want to.
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jeffp51 that Yew is looking good. Did you get that string where you wanted it.
yup. it isn't quite in the center, but it doesn't twist in my hand or anything, so I think it will be good to go. If you are ready to ship, then I will look forward to my new bow soon ;D
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Got about an hour or so to work on the bow yesterday, almost done with the fence but my helpers ran off so I had to take a break from it. Anywho, I got the PlanA stave profiled in, sides roughed in with hatchet and rasp, belly roughed in. Overall the stave is about an inch thick, not bending much at all yet. It's got a little bit of prop twist on one end, and it's got some reflex/deflex issues to even out some. I hope to get the heat gun on that guy this weekend for the minor corrections, and then thin the tips a little more and get them flipped some.
Don't mind the colorful clamp protector - got to use what you have on hand ;).
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Really clean looking stave and a nice start...
Don
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Sidmand nice start to a good looking stave. I like the character.
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thanks guys ;D
the wood is bush honeysuckle (the invasive stuff)
i forgot to say the yew wood for the tips is from my first trade bow that broke.
and i ended up taking the polly finish off and doing a beeswax/walnut oil finish instead.
fred i'm going to hang onto it a bit longer, i'm going to bring it with me to the classic.
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That is nice Dylan! I have been looking on our farm for some bush honeysuckle large enough to cut, so far only found arrow material.
I've got the dogwood straightened, the string tracks exactly down the center of the handle now. I had shaved the handle down with a coarse rasp to get through some rough looking wood. I went out to work on it tonight and had to flatten it to glue on another board. After lots of time with rasps, files, block sanding by hand, and checking with a straightedge, I think I finally got it flat. I cut a cherry board and sanded it flat, then glued on with tight bond 3. Now waiting for glue to cure.
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I hope you have enough meat under that handle to keep it from popping when you start tillering. A good rule of thumb is an extra 1/4" of thickness at the handle area fade transition. It's kind of hard to see so I may be putting the cart before the horse.
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jooter, I often do just that when I want that handle bending at full draw. Wish the hell I could figure out the tip end. >:( >:(
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Great to see so much progress being made. I got my Plan B heat treated and ready for low brace. Curious to see how she's going to look.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%20Plan%20B%20Heat%20Treated_zpsyo9usole.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%20Plan%20B%20Heat%20Treated_zpsyo9usole.jpg.html)
How many of you guys are headed to the TN Classic next week. Hope to meet some of you out there. It'll be my first trip to the Classic and I'm REALLY looking forward to it.
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That looks great Drew...your bench is a mess though!! That bottle of tight bond just sitting out! :P
Can't wait to see her start to bend.
Fred there are so many things I still haven't figured out and probably never will ;D
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Well ajooter, I thought I'd cleaned up for the pic.......forgot the darn broom too ;-)
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Thanks ajooter, I knew leave the handle thicker, but had not heard how much thicker. I think/hope I am good. I still need to thin the limbs a little. I took the clamps off and trimmed the cherry to fit and did an initial rough shaping with a rasp. Attached are some pics of where I am at the moment.
I will be at the classic next week as well, looking forward to meeting you guys.
Michael
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tillering this stick has been pretty non eventful. this is 26" and 60# ---the heaviest I have made a bow. My goal is 60# @ 29" so that I am confident it is safe out to 28. Set still seems well within acceptable. I see a couple of very minor spots to work on in the last three inches, but I am curious if anyone else sees the same thing. Tell me how you feel, and remember this is for posterity, so be honest.
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Michael, take that with you to the Classic, you can't go wrong with the help you'll get.
I've never been there but if I could afford the trip I'd be there 3 weeks early only hoping they could put up with me.
You have to understand that I'm almost as old as Pappy but don't get around near as much as he does.;
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Michael, looks a wee bit stiff coming out of the fade on the right limb. Other than that, she looks sweet to me. Yeah, take her to the Classic.
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The right fade is definitely stiffer than the left. Hit that with a few scrapes and you will have it before you know it.
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Michael, looks a wee bit stiff coming out of the fade on the right limb. Other than that, she looks sweet to me. Yeah, take her to the Classic.
+1
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I think you will be all right with that handle loope. make sure you don't have sharp angles on your fades. you really want to taper them on a nice curve up into the handle. not only is that visually pleasing but safer in design. I rarely glue a one piece handle on anymore. I like to start with a thinner lamination first then built up from there.
that color combinations looks great!
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Michael, take that with you to the Classic, you can't go wrong with the help you'll get.
I've never been there but if I could afford the trip I'd be there 3 weeks early only hoping they could put up with me.
You have to understand that I'm almost as old as Pappy but don't get around near as much as he does.;
Fred, from the looks of the Google maps your only about 4 to 5 hours from mojam. Surely your old ride could make it there! Come on down in July, I'll be there all week!
Patrick
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I might just get that old wagon on the road for this year. I'd like to see old ;D Bob Barnes and meet a few of you guys. Don't know why they had to choose the hottest time of the year to hold this one but mayhaps I can survive a couple days.
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Come on down bud, I'll have ac in my camper! And there is always a cold beverage available!
Patrick
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ajooter, thanks for the input. I definitely still have some shaping to do and will get rid of the sharp angles. But I have a question for you... why do you start with a thin lamination rather than gluing on a single block? Is the reason just aesthetic, or does it have some effect on strength, ease of assembly, or other purpose?
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Thinner lamination are less likely pop because there is less leverage on the lamination when the bow starts to bend and if it bends up into the handle area. In my opinion anyway....others feel free to chime in.
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Loope,
I agree with Ajooter. Thin laminations are better than a monolithic block but also with either one you do need a low fade angle as well. One other thing some woods make better monolithic blocks than others, one example is black walnut which in my experience is very forgiving of "popping off" where some of the harder woods are not. Like I said though, just one guys' opinion.
rich
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No advice from me. I've never added mass to a handle, They either bend or they don't. My experiences in life are many but my bowyer skills are limited.
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I'll get the progress pictures posted tomorrow morning, but for the most part, the piece of wood is now bow-shaped! It's just barely floor tillered, but I have a touch more shaping to do to even things up, then I'll put her on the tiller tree and start bending this weekend.
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I believe that anyone on government assistance should be denied the right to vote. and there's not a lot that I believe in. Figure it out, if working Americans were the only ones allowed to cast a ballot, we wouldn't be in this mess.
You must be half in the bag and watching the news. You never know who you're offending with that comment.
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Really? So you're looking to offend and start a debate on your own trade thread? My opinion not a very good way to help showcase all the guys that are working hard in your trade. If you want political debates take it elsewhere. You know the rules. So you see Mr. Fred?
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Yes, you are correct. My apologies Paul.
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Thank you again for running the trade Fred. It's easy to get emotional when thinking about the way the world works in general anymore. People are easily offended.
Got any extra room out in the stix?! ;D
Back to building bows now!! I know your running this trade Fred but I'm going to need to see some progress pics. Or have you been too busy playing with all your new toys from half eye and the gang?! >:D
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I can show you one I busted. Damn thing had a minor twist in the top limb and I was determined to straighten it out. Busted that SOB. We now have a brand new project. I'll post it tomorrow. Might not be my trade bow but guarantee you I'll make a shooter out of it.
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Thanks for the perspective PD. Every now and then I need to look at things from a different angle and that did it.
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I believe that anyone on government assistance should be denied the right to vote. and there's not a lot that I believe in. Figure it out, if working Americans were the only ones allowed to cast a ballot, we wouldn't be in this mess.
Couldn't agree more, Fred. When my stage 4 bone cancer inflicted wife went to vote this winter, I told her to keep her ass to home because she has no right to cast a vote. Not only is she on government assistance now, but her worthless azz was also a 25 year goverment employee. Double whammy! So, she stayed home and cooked instead of voting like a good woman should.
Huh?!?!
You gotta stop posting this stuff on here...I don't even think your supposed to be posting this around the campfire. Not that I don't agree with Fred's original post but I think that this needs to stop here and now! This is not the place to discuss such matters!
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I respect your perspective 100% pearly....Unfortunately I don't think we will ever be able to understand how the system works....or for that matter doesn't work.
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OK, this will stop now! Let's keep our political and religious views off of this forum, please.
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My apologies to everyone. My original post on this subject is completely out of line.
Fred
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As promised, here are the pictures of where the bow is at now:
(http://i.imgur.com/eXRHu4D.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ozpqRB0.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/1SQoMzf.jpg)
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Hi guys, so my holly D-bow is now 62" ttt, the centre 1/3 is parallel and 34mm wide by 26mm thick, constant taper from the ends of the parallel section to the tips which are 24mm wide by 18mm thick. Draw weight is huge but it is moving, any ideas as to what the dimensions should be for 50# at 28"?
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what do you have for wood there tynd?
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what do you have for wood there tynd?
Hickory. It's from a board that was pretty straight grained, but I had to cut the limbs separately and spice it together as a knot in the middle of board caused the grain to change directions. The handle is from that same board, but it is heartwood.
My plan is to leave it fairly wide and try to make it more of a Mollegabet, but with how short the lever section is (without giving out too much for the dimensions, the static limb is half the length of the moving limb), I'm not opposed to tapering the width of the limb (especially closer to the tip) if it makes everything bend nicely.
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Looks good so far Ty. Love me a molly bow! The length of the levers sounds about right. I've only made a couple Molly bows, but I'm pretty sure you want about half the length of working limb.
Tattoo Dave
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Well, from what I've read and seen, the "standard" for molle's is the static portion of the limb should be the same length as the working limb. I've also seen people go shorter for the static limb, which is what I want to do.
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Hey Ty,
You can make a Mollegabet anyway you see fit sir,,,,the shorter lever version just requires a different tiller shape and working limb profile. The long lever version works on the same principle as a Trebuchet...where-in the working limb (weight box) travels less distance and the lever tip travels a very great distance by comparison (throwing arm of the Trebuchet).
The shrot lever versions are on the same principle as the American flat bor with stiff, short, tapered tip sections...which requires the working limb to bend more and further to impart speed to the tip.
Either way will work for you sir....I suggest that you build it to the picture you have in your mind and just tiller accordingly....dont worry about the "standard", make the bow you want to.
rich
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Ty i like to taper the working limb in a pyramid to an inch wide about 12-13" from the tips then the top fade tapers to 3/4"and then straight to 1/2" tip to start and recurve the tip if that gives you any ideas
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Ty, looking good so far. Rich will get you dialed in. He's our resident "Molly Pro" :-) We're blessed with a lot of knowledge here to help us out.
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Hello all, started a new with a fresh piece of hickory...simple stick and string...like how its shooting. now to fancy it up alittle-Hammertime(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/15c9cc07-8993-4cb5-ab3c-183fe802a157_zpsk9ue7wlj.jpg)
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That is looking good Hammertime. The bend looks nice and even.
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Sorry for the inactivity! I went out to the shop the other day and my mind went completely blank! :o
I'd forgotten everything thing I've learned and did a lot of head scratching! So I didn't mess with building any bows. I'm off this weekend and I'm on nights so I will be able to get some work done. Hopefully my head is screwed on tight this time ;D I've got several Osage bows roughed out and ready for tiller so I will be posting a lot of pics and questions. My plan A is done but I want to get plan b and c done And maybe 4 done as well. Btw I see a ton of great looking bow coming out. Congrats to all of you for your fine work!
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Thanks for the input Rich and Bubby! I think I do have the flatbow with levers in mind, so I'll be sure to add a taper to the outer part of the working limb.
I will also thin my lever section a bit. I have the fade going to 1", then tapering to 1/2" at the tip. I knew it was going to need some thinning and wanted to leave myself a margin of error (as they say, it's easier to remove wood then to add it!).
So bubby, for your description: are you saying you would taper the width of the limb starting from the handle fade out to the 12-13" mark, going from whatever width I have at the fade to 1" at the 12-13" mark? I'm not dead set on doing a Molle, but I thought it would be easier to leave it a consistent width to the lever fade and then if change my mind later, add a width taper.
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Ty, looking good so far. Rich will get you dialed in. He's our resident "Molly Pro" :-) We're blessed with a lot of knowledge here to help us out.
Can somebody tell me what Half Eye isn't a pro at?
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Yeah ty that is what i was saying, you start with a even taper on the working limbs. You can leave the levers flat or flip them or recurve which is what i do just like this(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/logan/20160419_142755_HDR2_zpsxvainrjx.jpg) (http://s623.photobucket.com/user/bubncheryl/media/logan/20160419_142755_HDR2_zpsxvainrjx.jpg.html)
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That right there is a beautiful bow, bubby! I think I'll go that route (which is actually what I have in my mind's eye). Not to be a pest, but do you have an unstrung profile picture of that bow?
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http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,56754.0.html
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This one is a little on the short side for the draw but thats all the wood there was
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I can't believe I missed this bow. Thanks for the link!
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Bummed and frustrated. Well, Plan B ain't gonna cut it. The left limb that's bending much more has a concave area on the back where the bend is and this bow won't make the grade. It may still make a good 40# bow, but will never get to my 50#+ needs. Guess I'll have to start all over again :-(
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Plan%20B%20reject_zpsperxlkgd.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Plan%20B%20reject_zpsperxlkgd.jpg.html)
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Ty, looking good so far. Rich will get you dialed in. He's our resident "Molly Pro" :-) We're blessed with a lot of knowledge here to help us out.
Can somebody tell me what Half Eye isn't a pro at?
I bet he can't have babies :-)
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Is that right limb longer Drew? If so I think it has a pleasing bend. Also try drawing it in the hand at that dl and see what it looks like.
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Ajooter, they're the same length. That concave back caught me off guard. Guess I was in too big of a hurry trying to catch up and wasn't paying close enough attention. Now I'm behind again.
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in that case drew....I think that right limb just needs a little softening on the outer 2/3s....try that and then maybe pike an inch off each limb and see where your at.
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Pay attention PA trade guys. The FUMMED COPPER HEAD BLACK LOCUS is package up and going to the post office in the morning. So every body start looking on your porches somebody is gonna get a trade bow next week. If you don't like it when it arrives please PM half eye for his address and you can mail it to him. I'm sure he would appreciate it. :)
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I'd love to see that show up on my porch. Just in time for spring turkey camp! That's a beauty!! Nice work.
Tattoo Dave
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Got my fingers crossed Gut. :laugh:
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Gut, your bow has been one of my favorites thus far. It would be welcome on my porch any day.
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I need a little help with one. This Osage has a knot that has been worked out but the tip is going downhill and I was wondering if it can be steamed out or up? I've tried heat but that didn't work. It's about 10" from the tip. Let me know what y'all think. Thank you for the feed back in advance.
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Looks like you have got some heat on the back of the bow...that's a big no no Tim. I think you may have to reduce the limb a little more before trying to correct that limb. If the heat scorching is too much on the back you could always just chase another ring.
I had a kink like that in one of my limbs and I just left it. You can tiller around a kink like that.
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Pay attention PA trade guys. The FUMMED COPPER HEAD BLACK LOCUS is package up and going to the post office in the morning. So every body start looking on your porches somebody is gonna get a trade bow next week. If you don't like it when it arrives please PM half eye for his address and you can mail it to him. I'm sure he would appreciate it. :)
Just mailed the bow. Says it will be there Tuesday. Hope my victim likes it.
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Gutshot.....you a bad man sir >:D >:D >:D....does all that teasing come natural or did ya learn how to do that?
rich
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Hey all sorry I haven't uploaded anything in forever. My behind has been at work from 3 am to noon daily and with bills to pay and a new apartment I've been busy. I will upload during the day with a few new pictures and what's been going on
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Pay attention PA trade guys. The FUMMED COPPER HEAD BLACK LOCUS is package up and going to the post office in the morning. So every body start looking on your porches somebody is gonna get a trade bow next week. If you don't like it when it arrives please PM half eye for his address and you can mail it to him. I'm sure he would appreciate it. :)
Just mailed the bow. Says it will be there Tuesday. Hope my victim likes it.
Can't wait till it gets here. can you send me my tracking number, please?
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Pay attention PA trade guys. The FUMMED COPPER HEAD BLACK LOCUS is package up and going to the post office in the morning. So every body start looking on your porches somebody is gonna get a trade bow next week. If you don't like it when it arrives please PM half eye for his address and you can mail it to him. I'm sure he would appreciate it. :)
Just mailed the bow. Says it will be there Tuesday. Hope my victim likes it.
That will be just in time for me to take it to the Classic. ;D
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Half eye. It comes natural I guess. Grew up around it. But it's all for fun.
Jeff that tracking number was lost to the trash lol
Turtle I thought about bringing it to the classic to give to you but didn't know if you would be there. Lol
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Well Gut, you just made me very upset that I am going to be away from home this week for work. If that bow shows up at my house and I am not home, I will not be happy.
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(http://i.imgur.com/ygy7VDq.jpg?1)
I slapped the rest on ...all that's left is to put some poor suckers name on her!
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Ajooter make sure you spell it right. GUTSHOT ;D
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A quick update before I go to work. Finally got all cambium off the stave, it was a pain! Laid it out yesterday night and hope to get it roughed out tonight. Moscow Fur got good goat/deer hides right?
Have a nice day guys!
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got the stave down to uniform thickness this weekend, now I have to deal with a few problems/opportunites ;). I have a couple questions. There is a little bit of propeller twist, and based on a preliminary eyeballing it looks like there is some side to side stuff I need to correct. I also want to flip the tips, but I will likely do that with steam later. I am not sure which step to work on next, or if it even matters. Can you guys help me out here?
- Should I do the side to side corrections and any reflex/deflex evening out first OR
- should I do the propellor twist first
Neither of those issues are really bad, and I think I can get them out with the heat gun. With the heat gun, should I oil that stave down good with mineral oil or something first, or just get it hot with the heat gun sans fat?
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Joachim, looking forward to seeing that black walnut.
Sidmand, I generally use a caul and try to get the alignment and twist done at the same time with a heat gun on the form. Sometimes go slow and do it in a couple sessions, maybe ven more depending on how severe.
When I've tried to work it in one swoop is when I've had trouble with checking and cracks so just make sure not to over tighten the clamps and forcing the wood.
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ok, thanks Fred! I was going to build a caul anyway, I built a shaving horse yesterday - I think I overbuilt it a bit cause it's about 7 1/2 feet long and weighs about 50 pounds; I had treated lumber left over from fixing my fence ;).
I will get that caul built and then get that stave under control. I'm thinking I might be able to get the caul done tomorrow evening, and then just heat the stave up over the week, so I can flip the tips this weekend maybe.
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when are we supposed to mail out our bows?
finished an English style long bow from hickory but I don't know when to send it out
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Kid bow. Post some pics let's see it. You need to pm Fred and see if your allowed to ship it. He will get back asap
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Will do
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Sorry guys, I'm swamped with other work that needs tending and am not going to be around much for the next week.
kidbow, even though you may be ready to ship you're recipient isn't finished with the bow he has to send out yet ;D so you'll need to wait awhile. Also the person sending to you needs to be a little closer to finish.
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Now Fred I don't if we can allow you to be off that long. 😆
Has anybody left for the classic yet? I would like to make it. Maybe if I can get a few more items done this week maybe I can sneek down there for a day.
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I need a little help with one. This Osage has a knot that has been worked out but the tip is going downhill and I was wondering if it can be steamed out or up? I've tried heat but that didn't work. It's about 10" from the tip. Let me know what y'all think. Thank you for the feed back in advance.
Timothy,
Good advice from Fred...I have a cure for you...Recently had an identical deflexed area on a piece of Osage...It took 5-7 minutes steaming and held in place for a few minutes while it cooled...It bent like butter and was a 1/2" thick...I learned this from "half eye" on a past thread and it works...my wife didn't appreciate the orange water drops and I also blamed that on "half eye" >:D
Don
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Don I like your gloves your using. Lol
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My wife didn't, they turned orange, LOL >:D...I got that look, ya know what I mean?
Don
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Don, I think you learned that from the master of steam bending by hand. I haven't done it yet but it's going to be used shortly. I keep getting whamdoozled by using only dry heat.
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Fred,
Your right Sir, Rich only uses 5 minutes of steam and it works...I like to use steam on big sharp bends and then go to dry heat on the caul for tweeking...I'm like you, doing a lot in one big run with dry heat has caused some issues for me around character areas...On a real bugger of a stave I will steam first and then dry tweek ;)
Don
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GUTSHOT, my man, your victim is excited and delighted. Got your bow today and love it. I've been busting my butt all day getting ready to leave for the Classic early in the morning but HAD to fling a few arrows with it. Sweet! And it's even sweeter that Lauren made the string and bow sock. This will always be a special bow......and she's going to the Classic with me. Looking forward to shooting her some more.
Many thanks Paul
PS: My daughter is named Lauren too :-)
I tried to upload a pic, but Photobucket is having problems tonight......have to do it later.
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Drewster I'm glad you like it and hope it serves you well. That was a tough one to build, never built a 30" draw bow before. Seek advice from half eye he mentioned a bendy handle and explained to me how to build one. So you got my first attempt at a bendy handle so I could get that super long draw of yours. :) Lauren has been asking if you got it. So tonight when I see her I will let her read your post.
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Photobucket is working this morning. They were doing maintenance last night. Here's my second shot with the bow using one of my cane arrows. You did a fine job on your first bendy handle.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Gutshot%20bow_zpsxhf5daok.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Gutshot%20bow_zpsxhf5daok.jpg.html)
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Drewster, hell man with your luck ya better go and get a lotto ticket, too 8) 8) Good for both of you fellas . Gutshot that is a very fine bow sir.
rich
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Gut,
You posted this bow so early I missed it somehow, I went back and seen your post...Love the rich color that piece came out...Great work on them skins also, great all around...Pretty good work for a lefty ;)
Don
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That's great drew...can't wait to ship mine out and to receive my bow. I've got a couple more irons in the fire....ya never know...if I gotta keep waiting there may be some other choices for trade bows >:D
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That's great drew...can't wait to ship mine out and to receive my bow. I've got a couple more irons in the fire....ya never know...if I gotta keep waiting there may be some other choices for trade bows >:D
X2
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I'll get a picture up later, but I got the side profile on the hickory bow roughed out (I took Bubby's advice he gave a few pages ago and now it looks like a pyramid bow with stiff levers). It's definitely floor tillering now, so all that's left to do is make sure everything is evenly shaped, smooth over any corners/rough spots, file some string grooves and toss it on the tillering tree.
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Ty remwmber to get it tillered to around 20" before you recurve it if thats your plan, no suprises that way
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Timothy,
Good advice from Fred...I have a cure for you...Recently had an identical deflexed area on a piece of Osage...It took 5-7 minutes steaming and held in place for a few minutes while it cooled...It bent like butter and was a 1/2" thick...I learned this from "half eye" on a past thread and it works...my wife didn't appreciate the orange water drops and I also blamed that on "half eye" >:D
Don
Thanks Don! I will give that a try Wednesday or Thursday I'm working till Wednesday morning. Thank you I hope it works.
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I am heading out to the Classic! Something came up yesterday and I wasn't sure if I would make it, and am getting a later start than I wanted, but am ready to go now. I've got my dogwood with me, as well as three other possibilities. I will get one finished this week for sure! Hope to see some of you guys there.
Michael
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I'm laying out the shape of the bow, am I wildly off or am I heading in the right direction?
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j14/GreyDrakkon/1stBlackLocustBow/BlackLocustLayout_zpsaewuau3y.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/GreyDrakkon/media/1stBlackLocustBow/BlackLocustLayout_zpsaewuau3y.jpg.html)
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I lay Mineola from the belly....much easier to follow the grain in my opinion. But it looks like your on the right track.
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Looking good to me Ranasp. Post a pic of the whole bow please so we can see it
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Your grip/ fade/limb taper all look good.....pretty much spot on
rich
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Ranasp,
I agree with Half eye and Gut...Make sure though you are following that grain out the length of the limb...I don't know your experience level so to be basic, draw a center line following the grain and then draw your limb taper from center line...Looks like that is what you are doing from here... ;)
Don
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Timothy,
Sounds good buddy, Remember to put a towel or something on your leg...I forgot to do that and had to keep moving the stave because it was heating up my leg, gotta move quickly after pulling the foil off and hold for 4-5 minutes while it cools enough to hold the position you want...I noticed you had some twist, if you want to you could twist simultaneously as you push down on the bend and remove most of it...It moved like butter for me...Don't be afraid to crank down on it a little past where it needs to be because of some slight spring back after release... If you need some help PM me or Half eye, he's the master with steam and gloves...
Don
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Ranasp, as long as the tips line up close through the center of the handle and follow the grain you should be OK.
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Got a flatbow drawn up. I start with 2" at the fades but for how long do i keep the limbs parallel? Right now they're parallel or about 2/3rd of the limb, that seems excessive, but what do I know? ::)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_0123.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_0123.jpg.html)
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The first BW I made was a 62" NTN bendy narrow handle that pulled 50@28. It was 1 7/8" and tapered the last 10" to 1/2" tips. Belly was flat with all edges rounded.
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Just a swift update, have more or less finished roughing out plan b, and I've heat treated the outer thirds to remove sideways bend in one limb and heli twist in the other. All is now nice and straight with 2" reflex. Unfortunately the heat treat has pushed draw weight back up so I can't bend it past straight so I am going to rough out plan c then sit down one weekend and twist up a bundle of strings (I need to make at least 6) and rig a proper tiller tree. I was going for a compass bend, like a mini war bow, so no fades and no stiff tips?
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/04/image7.jpeg)
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Jandersson brought up something I didn't think of, on my Black Locust I started at 2" wide and just gradually tapered it until it was 1/4" wide at the nocks. Should I have it parallel for a length and then taper it?
I had only drawn out the one limb, and yes, I made sure to follow the original center line and measured out from it every 6" or so to make sure both sides are the same distance out from it. I'll get the other limb drawn out and take a picture of it before I start carving into it. Maximum anxiety for that part.
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leave it 1/2" wide at the tips when you rough it out and a straight taper like you have is fine
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Ranasp. On all my black locus bows I leave the limbs parallel 1/2 way down then rapper to 1/2 nocks. That will leave you with enough limb to have plenty of weight. You can always take wood off if it's to height of weight. You can't put wood on if it's too low
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Ranasp,
Gut give you some good advice right there....you cant go wrong leaving yourself some "wiggle" room on the first few bows.
rich
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Ty remwmber to get it tillered to around 20" before you recurve it if thats your plan, no suprises that way
That's the plan! Also... work and orchestra got in the way of things. I'll hopefully be able to take an afternoon off either today or tomorrow so I can get everything ready (not to mention to upload a picture of where I'm at...).
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Leave it at 2" for half of the way and then 1/2" nocks, got it! I'll adjust it and take pictures.
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Timothy,
Good advice from Fred...I have a cure for you...Recently had an identical deflexed area on a piece of Osage...It took 5-7 minutes steaming and held in place for a few minutes while it cooled...It bent like butter and was a 1/2" thick...I learned this from "half eye" on a past thread and it works...my wife didn't appreciate the orange water drops and I also blamed that on "half eye" >:D
Don
Thanks Don! I will give that a try Wednesday or Thursday I'm working till Wednesday morning. Thank you I hope it works.
Don and Half eye...steamed the Osage and it worked like a charm. Still a little twist in it but it's not too bad so I'll take that out when I heat reflex in. Thank you for the tip!
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Just a swift update, have more or less finished roughing out plan b, and I've heat treated the outer thirds to remove sideways bend in one limb and heli twist in the other. All is now nice and straight with 2" reflex. Unfortunately the heat treat has pushed draw weight back up so I can't bend it past straight so I am going to rough out plan c then sit down one weekend and twist up a bundle of strings (I need to make at least 6) and rig a proper tiller tree. I was going for a compass bend, like a mini war bow, so no fades and no stiff tips?
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/04/image7.jpeg)
lol I tell ya what you don't like that stave you feel free to send it to me. ill take good care of it >:)
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First off--Graduation is over!!! It has been one of the longest school years I care to recall and I am so glad it is over. I have been running the ragged edge of burnout for a while now and the only thing keeping me sane is to come home and work some wood and see it bend. Normally I teach in the summer too, but I am going to slow down this off season, hopefully build a garage (with a workshop in the back of it), ride my bike, and maybe build and shoot some bows. First step was getting my yew trade bow to full draw. I have it at the upper end of the weight range and the upper end of the draw range, so I think I will stop scraping and finish off with sand paper from here. If you see any place that needs a tweak or two, now is the time, but I am pretty happy with it as it is. here it is from both sides. . .
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Damned Jeff.....sand it and send it bud !!!! 8)
Kid Bow, you gonna get around to gettin some pics of your plan A bow sir? Teasing is one thing but ya know how we like our pictures >:D
rich
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Damned Jeff.....sand it and send it bud !!!! 8)
Kid Bow, you gonna get around to gettin some pics of your plan A bow sir? Teasing is one thing but ya know how we like our pictures >:D
rich
haha getting this horn polished is a pain in the butt. hopefully soon I can get it done.
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Jeff, that looks great as is.
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I'm at the classic in Tennessee, been a lot of fun, I started plan C ... A Osage stave I chased a ring down and cut out to 64" ... The tiller is finished out at 48# @ 28" ... I'm working on the handle now... I'm going to make it a simple hour glass style for shooting off the hand... I'll try to get some pictures taken after I get handle finished... I'm planing on putting a fake dimemonback rattlesnake skin on the back and dogwood overlays for the tips cause I think the doogwood will turn a gray white with the finish and put a black leather hand wrap on handle.
I've got to see some others in the trade this week ... Loope and Dylanholderman ... Might be others.. Let know what you think
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damn Jeff... is right . That is friggin beautiful bend. You could seriously send it to me now as is. great work sir.
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Gorgeous bend brother....looks like your yarning her back pretty far too....must be for one of the Lil fellas in the trade...or an orangutan! >:D
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Jeff,
Excellent bend, looks really balanced... 8)
Don
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Have to agree - really nice looking bend Jeff. Well done.
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Jeff that bow looks great.
Otter wish I would've met you at the classic. I was only there for today and drove back home.
Got to shoot a round with Drewster at the classic. Super nice guy.
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Thanks for the compliments. I guess I will move on to hair and makeup. If this were coming to you, would you vote arrow rest, or off the hand? Maybe my victim will be among the opinion givers. . .
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Jeff that bow looks great.
Otter wish I would've met you at the classic. I was only there for today and drove back home.
Got to shoot a round with Drewster at the classic. Super nice guy.
If you was in the workshop you saw me I was the big guy... :o
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oh heck Jeff, i'm easy :). actually i like off the knuckle lately ;D
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Thanks for the compliments. I guess I will move on to hair and makeup. If this were coming to you, would you vote arrow rest, or off the hand? Maybe my victim will be among the opinion givers. . .
Jeff I would vote a small floppy, but you make it the way you would shoot it. I will be happy no matter how it is. Can't wait for it to get to my door.
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Wait a second there Mr. Gut....I shoot off the hand >:D >:D Jeff suggest ya do what Gut said and make it YOUR way....cant go wrong bud.
rich
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Jeff - That's a beauty! Great job! You got it bending nicely.
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I am with Gut, a small floppy.
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I am with Gut, a small floppy.
x2
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I'm back home from the classic. It was sure a great time! I got the dogwood Plan B tillered and shot the course with it. It took some set, some from my tillering skills, and maybe some from moisture.
It rained several days and was pretty humid at the classic. After I finished tillering and measuring the draw weight, I then went to it with sandpaper, rounding the corners some more and getting it all smoothed out. Then it went in the hotbox overnight. When I pulled it out and remeasured to see how much weight I lost with the sanding, the bow had actually gained several pounds. If I make a guess that the sanding dropped 2-3 pounds, and the next day was 3 pounds heavier, then I actually gained 5 or 6 pounds due to drying.
The stave was cut and split over a year ago, and stored in air conditioned garage. It has been roughed out for several months now and stored in air condition. My guess is that it absorbed humidity. I am going to keep working on it and clean things up a little more, and was considering adding some reflex and/or heat treat. I am right at target weight right now, so I would have to shave a little weight off first.
I also worked on a previous dogwood that I had whip-tillered, piking it and cutting new nocks and started re-tillering. I think this one would make a good Plan C. And I worked on a white oak bow that I made at the classic last year. The tips were too narrow and unstable, gradually moving sideways after being strung for a while. I piked this one and re-tillered. With a heat treat, this might be a good Plan D.
Anyway, a great time and I wish everyone could have been there. I will post some pics soon.
Michael
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Sounds like your right on track loope!
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A quick update here on the Sunday evening. Roughed the out the BW. It's 68" long with 7 1/2" handle and fades, 2" wide from fades halfways out the limbs down to 1/2" tips. Gun Doc recommended limbs 2" longer than draw length so it should be good. I really like bendy handle bows and might adjust for that later, work is sending me to Albuquerque for the week so I got some time to think about it.
Take it easy guys!
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Just got back from the classic. Shot the vine maple plan a some while there. And got an osage stave I had previously rejected shooting. The problems with the osage weren't as bad as I thought they were and it is back in the race. I still need to get the dogwood shooting then I will decide which to send. Will get some pics when I get a chance. Im always
Too busy and having to much fun at the classic to remember to take any pics. I did get to see some bows of the other members of the the trade and they were all looking good.
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This weeks update: I have two staves now at a good floor tiller, limbs right at 1/2 inch thick and evenish, both Osage. One is a bendy handle (yall have seen it), the other I left fat in the handle to make it a stiff handle in case plan a craps out. I had to clean out my shop yesterday afternoon to make way for steaming, and I am going to hit a couple thrift stores on the way home to get me a hot plate. Also got to order some ammonium hydroxide for an experiment ;).
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Here it is , Hackberry recurve, 64" ttt 50# @ 28". Top limb is 1" longer, 2" at the fades taper to 1/2" or less tips. Cherry overlays on tips and a thin handle lam. The paint is acrylic, i did that paint job on another bow but that one blew up.i've ra close to 400 bullets thru it and she's quik and hits pretty hard. This one is my trade bow and as soon as Fred gives me the ok , she gets shipped out.
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And...
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Stix,
Really, really nice man...I like the paint scheme...Excellent balanced bend on that stick... 8)
Don
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That's a beauty Stix!! Love that paint job man....and a nice bend to boot!
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Yeah I really like that one sweet looking bend! Been crazy busy but managing a little time here and there on my trade bow. should have some pics up next week sometime-Hammertime
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Stix, I would be proud to own that bow. That is a beauty.
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Nice looking bow Stix!
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Sweet bend on that bow, stix! All 3 profiles are gorgeous!
Patrick
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looks fantastic. When does it arrive on my doorstep?
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That's pretty sharp stix! I've been working on my b and c. Got them close and I'm ready to ship my plan a as soon as I'm given the ok by Fred!
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That is a thing of beauty right there 8) 8) Ya may want to keep a picture of that one in case somebody needs to know what ya mean by "perfect bend and balance"
rich
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Stix any of us would be proud to receive that bow. She's a prutty one and that bend. WOW
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Think I have my plan B where it needs to be. It's from a yew board I got from Wizardgoat. Thanks Ryan! 1" at the widest 63" t2t 45# @? And is hitting straight and hard. About 1" of string follow. Going to shot it some more and keep my fingers crossed that it holds together. What do y'all think?
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I like it Tim...nice bend there and well tillered with only 1" of follow.
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Looks good, I think the right limb is a little stiffer in the outer third than the left is. JMHO
Patrick
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Looks good Tim
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Thanks guys. This one is shooting a little faster than my Osage I may send this one instead.
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Man, some good looking bows being worked up.
Jeff, love what you did with that yew stave. Anyone would be elated to get that bow.
Stix, fantastic job.
Let me know when you guys are ready to ship. No rush as we still have 3 months remaining. I'm going to get back to mine this weekend.
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I haven't done much work on bows lately but I had a little finish work to do on my trade bow. I put a leather handle wrap on tonight. All I have left is to sign the bow. It is essentially ready to go. Here is a sneak peek of it dressed up.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/8B11BDD6-FC32-4FA1-A59E-B2382A78EEAD_zpszzi9yrns.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/8B11BDD6-FC32-4FA1-A59E-B2382A78EEAD_zpszzi9yrns.jpg.html)
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That looks awesome man....hope it's coming my way!
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Swampman looks super cool. Some body will like that
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Sweet looking swampman
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Like the looks of that Swamp!
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Nice swampman!!
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Now that's a bow sir 8) 8) 8) One more fine example of everyone's hard work so far, I'd be proud to own any one of the bows posted up.
rich
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Lovin' all of the progress pics. I've been following this thread but haven't made any progress. I've been busy studying for finals and other school stuff.
The good thing - School is DONE next week, which means I can finally get this bow done! I'm sure I will be needing help so get ready. Haha
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Swampman, I know that superb bow isn't heading to my address but just in case you decide to make another one you can send that one to me.
Want you guys to know that I think you're all doing a fantastic job of keeping this trade on track and going strong. The only thing I did was organized the list. The rest of you are the ones making this one of the best trades ever. Thank You all!!!
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swampman, love that finish work, looks great.
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There are some great bows posted so far! I hate to admit I haven't been following as closely as I would like, but now that I'm finished with orchestra for the season, I'll have more free time to look and post.
Speaking of posting... I have been working on the bow over the past couple of weeks. Here's a picture of what it looked like on the tillering tree last night:
(http://i.imgur.com/SohfHb1.jpg)
The angle of the camera is not quite straight up and down, but I think you can see what's going on. It's at 16 inches now at a short brace (2"). The left limb is a tad stronger than the right and I think I can get the limbs near the outer fades to bend a bit more, but I think it's not too bad. At how much weight it's pulling at 16", I think I'll have more than enough wood to make my weight goal. It also hasn't taken a lot of set yet (about 1/4"), but since I want to flip the tips, I'm fine with a little set (it's just good that it hasn't taken, say, 3" of set at this point!).
Aside from doing some house and yard work, I really hope to get the bow to the 20" mark today so I can get to bending the tips. I'll also try to get the brace up to 3" for the next round of tillering, but my tillering string has been a bit stretchy and therefore a bit uncooperative... I might have to whip up a tillering string from the D97 string I have. In fact, I think I will do that right now (I have 2 nearly full spools, so I know I have plenty of material!).
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Hey Ty,
That is looking good sir....Just a suggestion, take a few scrapes mid-limbish on the left limb (in the pic) and even the two limbs up more at this point. I think that would make it easier for you check tiller after ya flip the tips....but there are a lot of ways to go about it bud.
rich
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Thanks for the tip, Rich! That sounds like a good way to tackle it. The new tillering string is ready for action, so away I go!
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Really enjoying the progress pics, especially as things have gone crazy in work and I haven't been able to get anything done beyond roughing out the stave for plan c. Only two more weeks left and then I can really crack on !
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Got my plan b done. Just put the first coat of true oil on. I am going to try a belly skins on I got from Cip. It won't be long before it's ready to ship. Shoots really good too. I'll get some finished pics up soon!
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Ty. Looking good
Timothy. I saw a bow at the classic with belly skins and I said right then the next snake I get the belly skins would be saved. I'm am so tickled you are putting them on your trade bow I think they look awesome.
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Ok, I need a good finish that is UV blocking and non-yellowing for some purpleheart trim I am using. My normal finish is tung oil, but it has too much yellow in it and turned my purpleheart brownish (on a test piece.)
I have been doing some experimenting. Heating the purpleheart with a heat gun will turn it a dark violet that looks awsome--but the tung oil ruined the look. The same finish on non-heated wood looks a little better. If anyone has any experience, I would love to hear it.
My other option is antler. What is a good finish over antler that will not yellow it too much?
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Tru oil should do the trick for you Jeff.
You could always use beeswax and talo mix. Then just put some straight beeswax over it and buff it to shine.
Patrick
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where do you even get tru oil? I have never seen it in stores out here.
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You can get it at sportsman warehouse Jeff. It is used on gun stocks.
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Jeff, if you have a bass pro or cabelas they will have it. I used to get mine from Walmart but can't find it there anymore. Like redhand said, it's sold for finishing gunstocks.
Patrick
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Jeff do a test peice of that Purple Heart and your bow wood and try fuming it you might like the aged look
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that might be interesting. But I bet it will just turn purpleheart brown.
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that might be interesting. But I bet it will just turn purpleheart brown.
All depends on if it has tannin acids in it. My trade bow limb tips was exotic wood and it look the same after I FUMMED it
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Finally things have calmed down a little bit and I told my wife this week is bow week! Been chopping away at it after work for a few days and it's now starting to bend to the floor. I think tonight I can start tiller with the long string.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/trade/IMG_0300.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/trade/IMG_0300.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/trade/IMG_0306.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/trade/IMG_0306.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/trade/IMG_0304.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/trade/IMG_0304.jpg.html)
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Janderson what type of wood are you using? How thick are your limbs? I like the character in that left limb.
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It's Black walnut, easy and soft to work with, about 3/4" thick. When would it be time to put raw hide backing on?
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that might be interesting. But I bet it will just turn purpleheart brown.
I was told that to keep it purple to put a 50-50 mix of mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil, one coat leave till the next day and repeat, then straight linseed oil, my wife's bow was still purple last i checked and it has been a year or two
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https://youtu.be/fm4Ene_Jz1k
Shot with my trade bow...i didnt check but I think its gained a little weight. It hits pretty hard...thats an old bamboo arrow I made awhile ago. I know its over 10 gpp.
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Janderson never worked black walnut. I would put the rawhide on before tillering if it was mine but only if it needed it. I wouldn't waste rawhide if I didn't have to have it. Maybe somebody that has worked BW will chin in and give you some advice
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Ajooter looks good. I'm bumbed out I just was for sure you was making a lefty:)
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That string you made for it is perfect! Dont be so sure its not a lefty ;)
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A little sneak peek at my plan B. Hickory backed yew from the wizard. It's got one coat of true oil so fare. It's 63" t2t and right now pulls 43#. Tips are east India rosewood arrow rest is carpathian elm burl scrap. I'll get the real pics up when she done thanks Tim
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Timothy. I like that Yew. Was it easy to work?
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It wasn't too bad. Once I got it down to thickness it went quick. I almost took to much off.
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Janderson...cant wait to see her start to bend.
Tim...that came out really nice. I hope to get my hands on some yew one of these days.
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Looks like a lot of great bows are being built. Been to busy with other things to get any bow work done lately and looks like it might be a couple more weeks before I get any time for bows. I'm starting to chomp at the bit already.
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Howdy all, I've been MIA for a bit due to viruses in the network. I haven't run off to the woods for good,...yet. I have my plan a and b shooting and have started finishing. I have time so I started a couple more and I'll pick the best of the bunch when time draws slim. It's late and I've been staring at computer code for days and days, so I'll get some pics up soon.
Oh and I almost forgot there's good news too. I received my trade bow for good old half eye. It's an absolute beast. It has to be drawing at 75 lbs at least. I had to make new arrows for it. Two sets actually, the first was too weak in spine at 65#. It likes 75-80 #. I sinks arrows deep into the target. If it were any heavier it might be too much for me to shoot, but as it is is just what I wanted for a max draw weight bow. Plus it is a replica of a Mohawk bow, so it feels at home here in NW PA and matches my new haircut.
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Ya better get us some lics of that new bow so we can all drool kid!
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Oh and I almost forgot there's good news too. I received my trade bow for good old half eye. It's an absolute beast. It has to be drawing at 75 lbs at least. I had to make new arrows for it. Two sets actually, the first was too weak in spine at 65#. It likes 75-80 #. I sinks arrows deep into the target. If it were any heavier it might be too much for me to shoot, but as it is is just what I wanted for a max draw weight bow. Plus it is a replica of a Mohawk bow, so it feels at home here in NW PA and matches my new haircut.
Pictures!!!
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Hey Kid,
Glad that you like it sir.....hope it serves you long and well. I was sort of nervous about it because it was way beyond my ability to shoot it in and all that. Also you are an accomplished bowyer so ya can always scrape here down some.
Hope ya make some meat with her.
rich
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Oh and I almost forgot there's good news too. I received my trade bow for good old half eye. It's an absolute beast. It has to be drawing at 75 lbs at least. I had to make new arrows for it. Two sets actually, the first was too weak in spine at 65#. It likes 75-80 #. I sinks arrows deep into the target. If it were any heavier it might be too much for me to shoot, but as it is is just what I wanted for a max draw weight bow. Plus it is a replica of a Mohawk bow, so it feels at home here in NW PA and matches my new haircut.
Pictures!!!
Of the hair or the bow! >:D
Patrick
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Of the hair or the bow! >:D
Patrick
Both!
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Of the hair or the bow! >:D
Patrick
Both!
+1 >:D
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sanding, sanding, sanding, sanding. . . . .
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Patience is a virtue guys. I'm still trying to get the hang of linux. After this last round of infection I'm done with windows. It was hard for me to tell which had more malicious code, windows or the virus. To be safe I just wiped the drive and got a new OS. I'm learning the new software so give me a day or two.
I don't suppose any body has any porcupine hair laying around? My mohawk kinda runs out at my bald spot, so I was going to make a roach to fill out the back for special occasions. I guess porcupine guard hair and buck tail were the traditional materials. I looked on line and the stuff is crazy expensive. With the way other fur prices have been lately it was surprising. If I can't find any I'll just go to the ethnic hair supply place and get some horse hair extensions.
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DK, I've got some buffalo hair> :laugh:
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when am I supposed to ship this bow? lol its sitting real nice in my room
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Kid bow post a pick of it I've never seen your bow. Unless I've overlooked it.....
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I haven't been able to do anything for over a week. My ankle and knee swelled up for no apparent reason, at least not that I know, and I had to stay off my feet and keep it elevated. My foot was so swollen that I could barely wear a sock, it was stretched tight and uncomfortable. A couple doctor visits and I still don't know the reason yet. But the swelling has gone down on its own and I was able to work some this weekend.
Here is a picture of my plan C dogwood... not the Plan B dogwood I had been working on before. Thought I would see how far I could get this one and then jump back to the Plan B. This "new" dogwood is close to the same specs, but has an 8 inch handle with walnut lam, where the Plan B is 10 inch handle with cherry lam.
This picture was taken when I had just a few inches to go. I kept working on the right limb and got it a little more balanced, got it to draw length, and did a heat treat on one limb. Will heat treat the other limb this week. What do you guys think?
Michael
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Right inner a tad stiff...Nice curves though, looking good ;) If you only have a few inches you may want to finish tiller in the hand by camera or mirror...
Don
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Loope,
To my novice eyes it looks pretty darn good!
Put my walnut on the tree this morning. The wonkiness is the left limb gonna mess with my head so I'll be back for advice I'm sure.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_0337.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_0337.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_0336.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_0336.jpg.html)
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Ok I'm officially done with having guests over. Had a great time with visiting friends, but got absolutely nothing done. Finally got to dig in yesterday and make some progress, I also started hacking off some sapwood from another stave in a fit of "DO SOMETHING ALREADY".
I cut down the stave to the finished length, and shaved off the sides until they reached the pencil marks. At the widest part it's 2", tips are 1/2". Nearly the entire thing is 1" deep, although due to some ripping from the knot on the belly, at the very edge it's more like 1/4" deep in one spot. I'm thinking that will be alright since I have to carve off a lot more from the belly, right?
I have a question about the handle, you can see it does a funky bend because of that honkin' big knot, which makes it really hard for my draw knife to not either skip right off of it or dig way in there and try yanking out more than I'm comfortable with. Should I saw out those areas and then just rasp them into a proper handle?
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j14/GreyDrakkon/1stBlackLocustBow/BLstaveTrimmedDown_zpsyp1gah21.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/GreyDrakkon/media/1stBlackLocustBow/BLstaveTrimmedDown_zpsyp1gah21.jpg.html)
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j14/GreyDrakkon/1stBlackLocustBow/BLstaveTrimmedHandle_zpsrrsd8ul8.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/GreyDrakkon/media/1stBlackLocustBow/BLstaveTrimmedHandle_zpsrrsd8ul8.jpg.html)
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Got some heat correcting done on my main stave yesterday. Had to even out the reflex a bit, had some sideways bend that took the string off the handle, and had some propeller twist to deal with. Think I got it mostly worked out - I'm going to let it sit and rehydrate till the weekend and then check it and do a little more tweaking to get it ready for tillering.
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Sidman sounds like you got a great plan going on there
Loope +1 what Don said. But your dang close and looking good.
Ranasp. Rasp that knot out down to the lines on your handle then use your scraper to get it where you want it. Also thin them limbs down to 1/2 inch thick and start there. I'm working on a little 55" long black locus for a friend and the limbs are alittle under 3/8" thick. And I have 43lbs at a 20" draw. So you will be safe at 1/2"
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Thanks Gut!
Sorry for the slow updates - I will certainly finish by the deadline, but I tend to work fairly slow these days. I have learned from experience that to fast means broken bows, and since I want this one to be for someone else, I am making myself go slow and careful. I've also got a lot of family stuff going on with the kids getting out of school and such soon. But, I will be in on time, and I will be keeping folks posted on here, so please just bear with me. I won't let y'all down.
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Ah so I'm putting pictures up today of my bow. Not done yet but will be very soon.
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cant wait to see her kid!
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I ended up going to my friends to cut down some trees that he was getting rid of it.
(http://i.imgur.com/5Jtkmsv.jpg)
however I did manage to put some horn nocks on it. first time I ever did anything so I'm sorry to the recipient of it.
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it looks a little rough yet. post a few more details and let people here help you improve it and get it bending well.
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when am I supposed to ship this bow? lol its sitting real nice in my room
Kid bow I'm with JeffP51. Above is the post you put. It don't look finished.
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If thats finished you have some more work to do buddy. Those edges need to be rounded and transitioned better into the nock.
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I know that was before I decided to put the nocks on it. I'm letting the glue dry first and then I'm going to smooth it all up with a file.
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Del the Cat has a video series on youtube making and elb and one of the videos does a great job showing how he finishes his horn nocks.
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Hey guys, I haven't fallen off the face of the earth, just extremely busy ever since I got back from the Classic. Tonight is the first time I've been able to spend some quality time in my shop.
BUT, alas, Plan C is rolling. I am just not happy with A & B. They are just not my best and I ain't shipping them out. So, here we go again. Prime hickory billet. Got the handle splice cut and glued tonight. Even have some nice natural reflex. Wish me well with this one.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Plan%20C_zpsipbwrqqc.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Plan%20C_zpsipbwrqqc.jpg.html)
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Drew you got some cool ideas on holding them billets tight while they glue.
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Yep, got me a system worked out. The West System G-flex epoxy I use is kinda slick, so I use the band clamp to keep the billets pulled together.......then clamp those boys together with the hand screws. Works well. It took me several bows to kinda figure it out. Now it goes pretty efficiently.
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I like that idea!
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Dang fellas,
All of ya got some fine projects going. Kid Bow, hope ya keep after that stick, could be a real looker sir. Drewster, that is a methof that should be printed out a pinned upo on the shop wall 8)
rich
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I agree with half eye drew...you have some good techniques worth taking note of!
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Just to check in real quick: I got the bow bending pretty evenly out to 20" (sorry, no pics of that right now :( ). I then went ahead to bend the tips a little bit. Here is the result:
(http://i.imgur.com/4hV7Rze.jpg)
I did this over the weekend with steam, so I'm letting it sit for a while while the moisture works it's way out (I'll check it after Memorial Day). In the mean time, this gives me some time to work on some other things, like making another core lam.
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Ty, the bow is looking good.
But you got some interesting looking items hanging on the wall. What you got going on there?
Patrick
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I took the pic at work. I really don't have a good workshop at home, so I'll do a few things there after hours. I fix band instruments for a living and that pegboard is filled with my sent removal tools for taking out dents in brass instruments.
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Thats pretty cool TY. Sounds like an interesting job!
Patrick
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Hello all I thought I would share what I have been working on for the trade....kind of a horse bow but and R/D hickory backed red oak with some walnut and red oak tips. Let me know what you think as glue ups are not something I work on...taken some shots with this bow and it s fast- Hammertime(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/20160520_070028_Burst04_zpsgfhxrcf0.jpg)
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Sure is purdy!! Lets see that girl bend! >:D
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OK(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/fd27c0a9-a1a5-491a-9895-6cb49270586d_zps0col69as.jpg)
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It s 54 " n-t-n, putting my other bows on hold thinking this is the one but what do you all think it holds a nice R/D profile when unstrung- Hammertime
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It looks like all the bend is in the fades got a unstrung pic?
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Hammertime. I a fan of the last bow you posted can't remember what it was made from. This bow is nice too.
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Bottom limb looks pretty good but the top is bending a lot out of that fade.
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It looks like all the bend is in the fades got a unstrung pic?
+1
Patrick
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Got a little bit more work done...
Left limb needs some more work, but after that I THINK I can start bringing both down evenly and getting it to draw length. What do you guys think?
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160521_201723_zpsbjgemfol.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160521_201723_zpsbjgemfol.jpg.html)
The right limb has some twist (I think it's called prop twist)
Anything to worry about?
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David, ya gotta get them fades moving before you go any further or you will have some early set...
Don
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David, ya gotta get them fades moving before you go any further or you will have some early set...
Don
I agree. You need to work on the inner 1/3 David.
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Ok. I will do that. Thanks.
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Without seeing it bend both inner limbs look stiff at brace Dave.
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Well, here is my Plan C dogwood w/walnut handle lamination, after heat treat and tillered to length. This one is ready for final sanding & finish work. The full draw photo isn't the greatest, kind of hard to take a steady picture with one hand while pulling the bow with the other, with one eye watching the camera and one eye watching the draw length :) From looking at the pictures, I think I was too close to the bow with the camera, and slightly off center, but hopefully you get the idea.
My Plan B dogwood w/cherry handle is currently on the steam pot on the stove to flip the tips a little. Plan B get tips flipped tonight and then I am going to heat treat it, thin the tips somewhat and hopefully done.
Michael
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I went out and shot about 70 arrows through the Plan C. The handle is still rough, that is, not yet shaped, but it shoots nicely. The weight would be on the low side of my recipient, but I am going to keep going and see how it finishes out My Plan B is getting tips flipped, and should finish closer to target weight.
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Is the right limb the bottom limb? Looks a little stiff midlimb out. See if somebody can get a picture of you drawing the bow. I use my self timer on my phone to take my own full draw pics. Its not too hard to do.
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Ajooter, in the previous pics, the right limb is the bottom. I got my wife to help and she snapped a better photo. Here is full draw in the hand.
Michael
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Loope, if that bow feels smooth during the draw.....leave it be 8) Personally, I think it looks real good and if it pulls smooth call it good and quit nit-pickin sir >:D
rich
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I agree with Rich loope....thats a bow for sure. That background helps too. Did Fred give you my address? ;)
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Good job loope. That looks like a nice bow so when you go to work that handle in make it a lefty and send it my way.
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That looks like a nice bow Loope. The bend looks very even.
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Thanks for the comments guys, I guess it is on to finish work on this one!
In the meantime, I got the tips flipped some on the Plan B bow. I will probably have some tillering to do after flipping the tips. And then will heat treat. I have a question, I was planning to adjust tiller after flipping the tips, then heat treat, then adjust tiller. Is this what you guys do, or would you heat treat directly after flipping the tips?
Also, I got one limb heat treated on my Plan D white oak. Here is a picture in the caul. I will do the other limb tomorrow maybe start some of the finishing on the Plan C I just posted.
Michael
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nice bend on that one Loope.
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Very nice Michael!
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I took a break from building after my last 2 bows came out less than acceptable IMO. Seems I'd found myself in a slump and had other things to finish up around here. I finally got back to bow work and have a couple on the long string. Will be posting pics for advice on tiller soon.
Bows look like they're getting done. Anyone sent theirs yet?
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Fred, I sent mine and believe it got there OK.
rich
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Fred, I am just waiting for the OK from you to send mine out. I am afraid my guy hasn't been very active on here though so I am thinking it may be awhile before I can send mine. I am still not sure which to send. I have 4 bows made and only one is ruled out. My mind changes from day to day.
Mike
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Whenever you say ill let her rip Fred....i do enjoy shooting her every now and then. Only thing left to do is sign mine.
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Howdi Folks!
Did some work yesterday. I'm thinking on both limbs more fades and mid limbs, what do you guys think? Also I got to straighten one limb out and steamed it this morning .
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_04731.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_04731.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_04741.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_04741.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_04761.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_04761.jpg.html)
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I've shipped mine and Drewster received it before he left for the classic. I did get to meet him and shot a round of 3-D with him. Super nice guy!
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Joachim, did you take all the sapwood off that? It looks like all heartwood.
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I think the light plays a trick on you, it's mostly sapwood.
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My trade bow stave had a tricky kink in it it like yours janderson. I am a huge advocate of pretillering in my bench vise. Gordon did this with his vine maple build along and i have since then used that technique. I can pretty much get the bow to low brace or even brace using this method.
Just be careful around that kink on the left limb but dont get to far into tillering without loosening up thise fades. All of the bows i make it seems have one limb that behaves perfectly and the other that fights you the whole way.
Keep posting...your making good progress.
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Sorry I haven't posted much lately. I've been a smidge busy. But I've made some progress. The sinew backed ERC was braced and ready to pull back. But after backing it the levers were a bit weak and were bending, even at 3/4" thick. So I atiffened them with tempered cherry wedges. I've got the overlays glued back on and all cleaned up. So it's ready to start bending again. I think I've used about an entire bottle of super glue on te knots to hopefully keep them together. Ive got a black locust molle going to. It's been braced up and then heat treated before pulling it back much more than brace. So it's ready to clean up and start pulling back. I'm hoping to get some more done this week, but I think I've caught a big of some sort and will have to see what I can do. Oh and I got the black locust now for my advisor finished. It took about 15 minutes to take from brace to full draw. I had it a little to weak from getting a good brace, so I pretty much just pulled it back to full draw. And it took them than 1/2" of hard set.
Kyle
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Those levers are skinny brother...do they bend? Cant wait to see how she turns out!
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At brace the black locust didn't flex any. After heat treating in not sure yet. When I heat treated the belly I went ahead and tempered the levers to stiffen them up some too. I havmt strung up the ERC yet to see how the wedges helped. But bending against my foot the levers were staying stiff. I'm ready to see how well everything holds up and shoots.
Kyle
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Fred, mine is ready to ship. just let me know.
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I guess I'm going to have to email everyone to find out who's ready to ship. I know there are more than 8 bows finished but a lot have wandered away and are not participating. Unless you've heard otherwise please hold off on shipping until I can get confirmation. :'(
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Sounds good Fred! Im definitely excited to ship.
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I am still in the middle of finish work. I have been testing various finishes on scrap, and I think I have what I want now. But since one of the bows has a heavier draw weight than what I am used to, (and I have recently discovered that the arrows I have are underspined even for my lighter bows) I have been making new arrows to be sure I can test it safely. But I am getting very close.
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I'm pretty much ready to ship all I need to do is put a few more coats of true oil on and wrap the handle. I am going to put a new rest on but that will take only a few minutes.
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Man you guys are all finishing up at the same time. That's awesome!
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Bows are looking good guys.
I m still shooting my trade bow. Tweaking it to get it to shoot the best I can. About ready to call it a bow and finish it up. I am struggling on how to finish it. I have finished a couple of hacks with some light stain and then streaks of black leather dye to add some camouflage. But some of the painted ones I have seen here have got me thinking about some painting????
Will try and post a pic or two.
Mitch
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I got a bit more done last night. I got both of the bows pulled back to 18" and at the rate they build weight, they are both at about 60# at my goal of 27". So if u just keep easing them back and touching up the tiller they will be right about where I want them at about 45-50 lbs. Though the cedar bow the levers are still bending a bit. So I'm going to add a layer of cherry on the under side. And probably leave it a bit on the wider side since there is a little side flex on one of the levers. I might max it out at 40-45 lbs to play on the safe side with the levers. First I've gotta finish getting over the bug I've got. About half draw is about all my muscles wanted to take.
Kyle
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still tillering Plan A, want to get it out to about 20 inches or so then flip the tips. Tillering another as well in case the first one decides to go south on me, but she is hanging in there so far. I will post some more pics later this week.
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Ajooter: I saw that great build along by Gordon. I have not tried bench vice tillering, why do you like it?
Got mine steamed the other day and got the string alignment back into the game so know I'm giving the bow a rest for a few days. Ordered some goat hide to use for backing yesterday. Slowly but steady........
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I am out of town this week, but my status is:
Plan B tillered and shooting at the Classic. Decided to flip the tips a little (did this already) and heat treat (not done yet)
Plan C tillered and heat treated. Shoots nice, need to shoot a little more and ready to finish. It made right at low side of my target weight range.
Plan D tillered and heat treated. Need to check tiller after the heat treat.
I won't get to work more till next week, but am getting close. I am excited about getting closer to finishing these up and picking one.
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Janderson...its just a different way to watch the limb bend. I think its easier to see flaws. I can use a tillering gizmo too.
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Id like to see some of these bows loope! I only made one bow for the trade. Well i started one and ended up finishing another. I will try and finish that first one eventually....i got somebody in mind for it.
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Man, I been absent. Well I'm back and ready to get on with it.
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I'm waiting on some skins for the sinewed osage, although I have not been doing anything on it. Too much family drama and stuff but I think it is past mostly.
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Hey folks,
Just wondering if you could choose, would you go for a snakeskin over sinew or something less common like tree bark covering sinew?
Sometimes I lean one way, then the other...
Ranasp, I tend to just hatchet around that handle stuff and hit it a little from upper and then from lower limbs. then rasp it when closer to finish size. Can easily go too far though and tear out too much.
Ty, I really like that profile.
Loope, Very nice plan C
David, sure glad you're in the trade and your bow is coming along nicely.
Fred, I like both of those possibilities.
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I'm always gonna pick snake skin if it's an option. It may be that it's not easy to find large snakes in my area. If I head south a few hours there's decent timbers and copperheads, but I've never gone after them. You're only allowed one of each species per year. With the timbers, you're expected to catch it live and put it in a clear plastic tube so it can be accurately measured. If it's under 48" it must be released. Call me crazy but, I don't feel comfortable with that. If I ever get one, my measuring technique would be more like measure the limp dead body and add 3" for the now missing head and hope it is at least 48".
Some of the fish skin backing I've seen are pretty slick looking also. I'm not a huge fan of bark backings, but have seen some that looked nice. Often times my first thought is, "hey you forgot to debark your stave."
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I have seen some nice looking snake skinned bows so don't take me wrong...I just don't really like killing them for my bows. I would like to see the bark.
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I posted a couple of days ago that I was to the finishing stage on my trade bow. Have it sanded with 80 grit so I need to make some decisions on finishing. I am going to post a few pics of bows I have done with various finish - give me you opinions and help me decide on my trade bow.
Here is the first - black leather dye to stain the grain on the belly and then a wine colored stain. Topped off with tru-oil.
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Here is another... This one was lightly stained with an "english oak" stain and then a brown rit stain for the streaks. Coated with spar urathane.
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A 30# kids bow made for our summer programs at out local preserve. Painted some designs on this one.
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Plain one dyed a mixture of brown and black.
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I like the red one best, but all are nice. What does the bow say it wants?
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Mitch,
I also like all of them. Your finish work is most excellent sir.....Anyt of your choices would be very nice, either hunting or target.....
rich
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Thanks guys. Jeff - I asked the bow, but it has not answered me yet! :laugh:
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All look great...i like the second one tho
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#1 has my eye but I sure like that grip on the last one ;D
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I vote #3.
Kyle
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With finishes that nice you certainly have no need to kill snakes for the skins. I liked the dark dyed grain with a lighter stain for a complimentary color like in #1. I also like the fade to dark tips on the kids bow. I've been playing with layers of stain and dye with sanding in between. You certainly can get some interesting looks that way.
There are some places out there where the snakes are overly plentiful and being killed just because they're poisonous and close to homes. I don't mind getting a hold of skins from these because they were going to be killed anyway. I even looked into farming copperheads a little, but it wouldn't be legal at my current address. Did you know a female copperhead is capable of asexual reproduction? When no males are around she will give birth to clutch of clones of herself.
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Did you know a female copperhead is capable of asexual reproduction? When no males are around she will give birth to clutch of clones of herself.
[/quote]
Im glad humans arent capable of that! :o
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If its for me I like the one the kids painted on. For some reason I just like to see kids involved.
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Did you know a female copperhead is capable of asexual reproduction? When no males are around she will give birth to clutch of clones of herself.
Im glad humans arent capable of that! :o
[/quote]
Especially since we're talking the ones who can't get a mate.
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Well thanks for the help! ??? ??? I will just have to see what kind of mood I'm in this week when I work on it - I have the whole week off. Went and shot some carp with my brother today - they are just starting to spawn here.
D.K. - Yep, I have no trouble with people using snake skins for bows - they are a resource that can be used. It seems around here though, the common belief is the only good snake is a dead snake. People kill our bull and fox snakes and just leave them lay. Seems like a waste to kill a harmless snake just to leave it lay. I do have a couple of road kill bull snakes in my freezer that I will use on a bow sometime.
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This thread has been a little too quiet lately. Here are some teasers of Plan A, which is finished and shot in pretty well. Plan B is sanded and ready for the oil finish starting tomorrow. I could be ready to ship in a week (assuming I can stop shooting these.) Only problem is I haven't seen much progress from my victim lately, so I don't know if he is coming along or not. Guess you all better start posting if you ever want to see the rest of this one, or of the other, which I think is even better. . .
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That looks like a beauty Jeff...wiah it was coming my way!!! I dont wanna stop shooting mine either haha!
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I have seen and handled stixnstones trade bow and he did a great job on it, beautiful bow buddy someone will be a happy camper
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I have seen and handled stixnstones trade bow and he did a great job on it, beautiful bow buddy someone will be a happy camper
X2!! One of the best Hackberry bows ive ever seen
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Here's the pic of the osage and sinew profile after setting for a few months. I put a crayon standing up where the arrow pass will be so you can see which limb is upper.
It is to low brace and I think it is looking pretty good but I am dong all the tiller work with bow in hand looking down th limbs or looking in the mirror so I'm not sure how to get good shots of the bending. I still have a wife so I guess maybe she would take a few for me soon ;D One of the reasons I have been absent lately but we finally sat down and put all BS aside. We may make it after all.
I have tomorrow off so I will get after it and also plan B which should be at low brace tomorrow.
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Good news my friend, happy to hear it. If you're both still willing to try, that means there's still something worth saving.
Oh and the bow looks nice too.
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Choosing to try and put horn tips on my bow was the dumbest idea I had. Dang things snapped off the first time I tried to brace the bow. Oh well guess this things gunna be plain Jane cause if I'm right I've only got a few days left to finish and fix the string grooves.
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I don't think anyone is gonna bust your chops if you'd like to try and get the overlays right. It's fairly obvious that you'll soon have a bow to send. If it were up to me, I'd give you extra days if it meant you were able to learn a new technique.
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I was so worried about trying to get you the time you wanted I never bother to check the deadline. From what I just read at the beginning of the thread, we have until mid August. Unless of course the date was changed further along in the thread. I'm sure someone will chime in if it was.
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ill have to decide in the morning cause I'm unsure as heck.
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Jeff and Dubois. Those are nice looking bows
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Thank you DK. I really appreciate you taking the time to drop a few lines to me when you did.
Thanks Gutshot.
kid bow, now you know something you didn't before. I believe we have until August to ship so there's still time.
So here's pics of the bow thanks to my wife, at 5" brace and then drawn some. It is pulling 33# at 18".
How's the tiller look to you?
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That's really nice jeffp is that pink ivory on the tips?
Debois. Looks sharp!
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DuBois, to me your upper limb looks to have stiff spots above and below that knot.
Tim, my tip overlays are purpleheart--pink Ivory would be cool--unless you are an elephant.
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Dubois, lookin good. a couple lil stiff spots but looks good. Jeff, can't wait to see more of that baby. Bub's and Pauly , thanx for the kind words.Just gotta sign it and she's ready to ship.
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It took some backtracking but I found the stix bow! That is a fine lookin creation you got there!
TimR, yours was lookin awful good too. How's it coming now?
Hey Janderson, did that walnut get straight or did you decide to leave it wonky?
I'll try to get some update pics of the progress if wife is willing.
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Coming along nicely Dubois....i agree with the others couple little stiff spots on the top limb.
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Debois. The yew bow is all done but for the handle wrap. I'm going back on nights this weekend so I'll get to do some more work done and be able to finish another one. I've got some Osage to chase as well.
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Got the tips flipped, and one of them popped a bit of a splinter on the belly, so I'm going to do some maple underlays. Got some antler tines cut as well. Letting the wood stabilize some, and back to the heat gun. Some of the limb twist came back during the steam bending, so I got to straiten that back out again, and I need to even out the deflex a bit more too. Then, on to the final serious tillering.
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Hope my victim likes bumblebees, cause this bows gonna look a lot like one when it's finished out ;). I think I'm going to blacken the tips and back with ferric acetate (vinagroon), but leave the belly unstained. Black and yella, with maybe a yellow rawhide wrap. I'm going to use some of the Osage shavings to make a yellow dye, and soak the rawhide for the grip in it to dye it nice and yella.
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I prefer honey bees. But that is looking good whatever you call it.
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I prefer bows...a little color is just a bonus!! >:D Cant wait to see her all dressed up Sid!
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I hope that it doesn't mean that bow will only sting once then die. >:D :laugh: Perhaps a yellow jacket would be a better comparison?
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hah, no. That's why I said 'bumblebee'. Bumblebees can sting, and they don't die after stinging you, and it hurts like hell too! I was moving some old hay bails one time, and there was a nest of bumbles in there, and they were very upset when I took their roof off. And, they let me know just how mad they were, multiple times!
I actually like the old bumble - gentle bugs most of the time. I hate me some yellow jackets though. At least the bumblebees stung me for cause. Yellow jackets are just jerks - been stung by more than I care to remember as a surveyor and just being out in the woods.
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It took some backtracking but I found the stix bow! That is a fine lookin creation you got there!
TimR, yours was lookin awful good too. How's it coming now?
Hey Janderson, did that walnut get straight or did you decide to leave it wonky?
I'll try to get some update pics of the progress if wife is willing.
what page was it on?
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181
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Didn't make much progress from my last picture, but I want to make sure I am doing it right. I still need to take wood off on the inner 1/3 of the limbs, right?
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160602_162504_zpstw3if6ee.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160602_162504_zpstw3if6ee.jpg.html)
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@David Ewing , tips are still looking stiff to me , and, unless it's an illusion, the right limb is bending a bit more near the fades
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Right limb inner half is stiff...left limb inner third is stiff.
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This advice has been given plenty of times before, but I will give it again--if you are new to bow building, make yourself a tillering gizmo. It will tell you exactly where flat spots and hinges are. It can't be fooled like your eye can. It won't solve every problem (no good around the recurved tips or too close to the fades, for example) but it will really help you begin to see the bends. It really helped me early on, and really helps me still. Try it.
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This advice has been given plenty of times before, but I will give it again--if you are new to bow building, make yourself a tillering gizmo. It will tell you exactly where flat spots and hinges are. It can't be fooled like your eye can. It won't solve every problem (no good around the recurved tips or too close to the fades, for example) but it will really help you begin to see the bends. It really helped me early on, and really helps me still. Try it.
Good advice!
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Hey David,
I'm seeing a hinge about 6 inches from your left fade so maybe a little stiff in that fade and the mid to tip. And as ajooter said, right limb inner third stiff.
I don't know what the unbraced profile is like though.
Marco
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Finally, finally, finally have had some time to work in my shop on my Plan C bow. Got the back chased and the profile roughed out. I'm pleased so far. Will keep my progress posted.
Gotta run.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow_6-3-16_zpsmhccc7a8.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow_6-3-16_zpsmhccc7a8.jpg.html)
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Looking forward to seeing the progress Drewster!
I never posted the rawhide tip overlay on plan B so here it is along with the front and side profiles.
It's at low brace and getting close. I gotta go to work now or I'd get more pics up. :'(
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David, the bow is coming along good. As mentioned before when you post a pic you should try to add an unbraced pic for reference. Can't tell much without seeing it unstrung.
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Those nocks are killer Dub....That one looks like a winner drewster..keep at it david, theres a bow in that piece of wood for sure!
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I haven't posted in a while, was out of town last week, and had a lot of commitments this week. But here is my progress:
Plan B dogwood: I flipped the tips only a couple inches, first time I tried this, and goofed a bit. I identified my problem as lack of experience: wood was a little thick, bend kind of sharp, and I didn't use a backer. Both tips had some splinters/splits. I rasped down to good wood and to try to make both sides match, sanded flat, and glued on some redbud as underlay material.
Plan C dogwood: I had finished tillering the last time I posted. Since then, I have shot the bow a decent amount and really am liking this one. I started working on the finishing, got the tips thinned a little and finished shaping the nocks/tips. Also started working on shaping the handle. This one is almost ready for final sanding.
Plan D white oak: This is a bow I had tillered and shot some last year, but never finished. The tips were too narrow and unstable, bending to the side after shooting for a bit, so I set it aside. Well, I finally picked it back up and decided to work on it. I cut about 3 inches off each limb tip, retillered, and heat treated. This bow is now ready for final sanding finishing, but turned out a little too light. I am a few pounds under my minimum target weight, but it sure does shoot great! This one won't quite make the cut for the trade due to draw weight.
The picture with two bows shows the Plan C dogwood on top and the white oak on the bottom. The single bow with the clamps is me fixing my goof on the Plan B dogwood.
Michael
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I'm liking that dogwood.
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lookin good.
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I think they both look good at brace Loope. The underlays should work fine for you as well.
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Oh man, there a lot of great looking bows being posted on here. Keep them pics coming!
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Going to need some guidelines on this one. 59" NTN and shooting for 50@28. A couple of whooptedoos are throwing my eyes off on this one. I may put it on the caul and try to get rid of them with heat adding a little more reflex. Haven't decided whether to flip the tips yet.
Relaxed, 6" brace, and pulled to 17". Currently 42#@18.
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Fred,
My eyes are amateur, but looks the right limb is bending a little more than the left and that the left looks a little stiff from mid-limb to the tip. Trying to look at the handle area, the whoop-de-do throws me off also. I want to say stiff between the whoop-de to the handle?
But don't count on my eyes, because I was just getting ready to post for tiller help as well. I have the Plan B dogwood pretty close, need to get a couple more inches draw length. Can someone check my eye on this dogwood? The upper limb is to the right. I am seeing that the right limb is stiff from mid-limb to tip and maybe the first 2 inches from the right fade should bend a little more, but starting about 6 inches from the fade, a little too much bend. What do you guys think?
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Hey Fred, I'm seeing that right limb looking real good. Left limb maybe a little stiff handle to wonky area and then to past mid limb after wonky. Hard to see if the handle is getting any bend from here but it looks like there isn't any bend on that left side.
Looper, those are lookin real good from here!
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Hey guys!
Dubois: good to see you back! Yeah, a coupe of bending sessions this week, got string alignment to something I can work with also tried to steam out that kink in one of the limbs.
Fred: Agree with Dubois.
Loope: I like the look of that dogwood!
First pic is where I started, second is where I got the string to. Third is the kink in the limb I'm working on now. Got the rawhide and hide glue I ordered so I hope to get that on by the weekend.
Have a good week guys!
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_04761.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_04761.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_05691.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_05691.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_05701.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_05701.jpg.html)
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Drewster - looks like you are off to a good start on plan C.
Dubois - love those overlays!
Loope - the bends are looking good.
Fred - I am seeing the same thing as Dubois and Loope.
jandersson - looks like they are coming along fine.
Worked on finish work this week on my trade bow. Have a little decorative work left and then will cover it with tru-oil. Will post a few pics when finished.
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Fred, i'm seein the same as everyone else. Loope, looks good .
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Sorry I haven't been on in a while fellas! I was in South Dakota turkey camp ;D, then my truck broke down, and just been working like a dog. My bow is ready to ship, what's the word on early ship dates? Sorry if I missed any posts already stating this.
Things are looking good guys!
Janderson, what kind of wood you got going there?
Tattoo Dave
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So many glue lines. So far I've got 5 glue lines in these levers, not including the overlays. But I think I've finally got the levers stiff now. A bit more cleanup to go till I can string it up again. But I definitely learned my lesson on cedar molles. Leave the levers way over built, especially if the bow will be sinew backed. The levers have a cherry wedge down the center, underlay, and a slab on each side.
Kyle
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Hey Kyle, way to stick with it! That ought to be really cool looking when finished ;D
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Holy Molly!! Cant wait to see her bend!
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I wonder if bone would have been a better material for stiffening your levers. Well, not better... maybe more efficient. Polished bone side overlays or an in set would look pretty sweet I'd imagine. I'll have to give that a try if I get the opportunity.
I did some wood burning on the levers on my plan B bow. HHB is hard to burn. I wish I would have had a higher end burner, but it still looks fine. I'll just add pics of that to the ever growing list of ones I've yet to post. I think I finally have the new computer set up to where can edit, re-size and post. Now I just need to find the time.
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plans A and B are now finished, and just need some shooting in. In the mean time, here is plan C, a nice little red oak board bow I whipped up a while back. Tell me how you feel about it and what you think of the tiller. It has only taken about 2.5" of set on either limb.
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That red oak is a fine bow but i wouldnt send it out for your trade bow.
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That right fade area looks a little stiff as well...
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Ajooter you are too nice. This is actually the first bow we ever tried to make. All of the bend is in about 2 inches of the limbs, there is a nasty twist in one, and the levers are the size of broomstick handles. Not only that, but that "green, cross-hatched sinew" on the back is about the only thing holding it together. It pulls maybe 15# and the arrows it shoots are more likely to bounce of the target than to penetrate. It is more an example of what not to do than a real bow--even if I was proud of the handle stitching at the time, and I did learn how to make a flemish twist string in the process of building it. I was up way too late last night teaching myself how to make a string silencer, and it seemed like a good joke at the time. ;) Actually, it shows how far you can come with a little practice. I will put up a few pictures of the real trade bows here in a bit.
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Damn right jefff....wish i kept my poplar molly i made....i may have a link to the video of the fulldraw ill see if i can find it
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Thought I would share what I have been up to....finishing the hickory bow I posted awhile back. Almost ready to go one more coat of tung oil. Hickory, bull snake 66" long (http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/3223c1f5-596e-4bdc-aa92-7987f985e283_zpsam87cqag.jpg)
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Looking real good Hammer.
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Looks killer Hammer!
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Thanks, it's a simple stick and string but I m really liking it, have a couple hundred shots through it and it's taken little set-Hammertime
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Well, it's been a bit since I've posted, as I was out visiting family for a week, followed by a week of working on projects around the house. Some of those projects were archery related, though! I do have pictures to post, but it's a little late for me now and I still have to crop them and upload them to imgur. However, I can say I'm close to done on my plan B bow and I have my trilam glued up and ready to cut to dimension.
I'll be sure to get up early to get the pics posted and to see what you gents have to say!
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Hey Hammer, that's a beauty!
I been scraping on my A and B and will try to get pics up of both later today for input on bend.
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I like it hammer. We don't have those bull snakes around here. They got a nice pattern
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That bow does look really slick, Hammer!
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OK, here are the pics I promised!
Here's what she looks like braced at 6.5 inches (the top limb is to the left):
(http://i.imgur.com/7VBla8J.jpg)
Here's the full draw picture (I'll try to take another one, I had the arrow in there for reference since my personal draw in longer than what the bow is and the arrow is just a touch high on the tillering string, but you'll hopefully get the general idea of how it's bending):
(http://i.imgur.com/8TqW65p.jpg?1)
And here's how the bow looks right after I unstrung it (after it was strung for about an hour while I took a few shots through it and served a temporary string for it):
(http://i.imgur.com/pbuIj1Y.jpg)
Finally, here's how the trilam is looking. I finally got around to cutting out and tapering a new core lam (this one is walnut) while I was on my vacation. Instead of using the black palm I was thinking of using, I actually found a really nice maple board at the local Menards that has a great figure on it (and the board cost me $15!) that I used for the handle. It's nice and flamey (I'll try to get a better picture of the handle or board).
(http://i.imgur.com/TmtQa43.jpg?1)
Now to clean up all the excess glue, trim it to size, glue on some tip overlays, and start bending it!
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Bows are looking good Hammer and Ty. I'm going to try to finish mine this weekend and hopefully only need to add finish and handle wrap.
I was scheduled for a hernia operation yesterday but a confused schedule got me postponed to a later date. Next week I'm heading into a different clinic for a final decision on double knee replacements. I'm not getting around well at the moment and need to get finished up in order to meet the deadline. I can't wait any longer on the surgeries so wish me luck.
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Good luck Fred. Most folks I know that have had their knees done wish they would have done it sooner. I hear moving about is easier if it doesn't hurt that much.
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good luck Fred,hope everything works out well for ya. Hammer, love those skins. Ty, that stik looks awesome, great bend ya got goin.
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Fred, good luck with your surgeries. I hope they don't keep you down too long.
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Damned Fred, You gonna be a real sore fella for a while....hope all goes well during surgery and short, successful recovery sir.
rich
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Fred take care of those knees you will have 12 weeks of recovery.
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Hammer & ty - bows are looking real nice.
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I finally got the sinew backed ERC molle shooting. It came in a few pounds lighter than I wanted. It's 37# at 27" draw but flings a 500+ grain arrow harder than I expected it to. I have a bit more shooting to do with it and the final sanding, but to me it already feels like a fun one to shoot. After shooting and being strung for an hour it came out flat, but after about 2 minutes of being unbraced, it pops back to its inch of reflex. It has some kinks from the sinew trying to buckle the cedar while drying and it has about an ounce, maybe two of super glue to reinforce all the knots and cracks from the sinew trying to pull the wood apart. Here's a few pictures, I'll get a full draw Monday when I can get a buddy to take a picture for me. Then Itll be time to decorate.
Kyle
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Best wishes to you, Fred. I know the recovery will be rough, but I've had people in my life get knee replacements and they all have had a better time getting around after the surgery, so just hang in there!
As far as the plan B bow goes, here's a few sneak peaks. This is after I sanded it down and applied a coat of tung oil:
(http://i.imgur.com/7gr0vWg.jpg)
The front of the handle section
(http://i.imgur.com/JQAmVPl.jpg)
The back
(http://i.imgur.com/p6QgwCI.jpg)
The tip
As a reminder, it's a hickory bow with hickory heartwood as the overlays and handle section. I think it'll look nice after I get a few more coats of tung oil on it.
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I finally got the sinew backed ERC molle shooting. It came in a few pounds lighter than I wanted. It's 37# at 27" draw but flings a 500+ grain arrow harder than I expected it to. I have a bit more shooting to do with it and the final sanding, but to me it already feels like a fun one to shoot. After shooting and being strung for an hour it came out flat, but after about 2 minutes of being unbraced, it pops back to its inch of reflex. It has some kinks from the sinew trying to buckle the cedar while drying and it has about an ounce, maybe two of super glue to reinforce all the knots and cracks from the sinew trying to pull the wood apart. Here's a few pictures, I'll get a full draw Monday when I can get a buddy to take a picture for me. Then Itll be time to decorate.
Kyle
That's a good lookin bow the way it is! It'll be sweet to see it all finished.
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@ty_in_ND what's the thickness on those limbs?
Neatly made bow 😊
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It's about 1/2" thick throughout the working limb. Starts at 2" wide at the handle fade, then tapers to 3/4" at 13" from the tip, then tapers to 1/2" at 8" from the tip (with a fade that goes from 10" to 8" from the tip for the lever portion) and remains 1/2" to the tip.
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trying photobucket for the first time. see if this works.
this is a tease.
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y368/jeffp51/trade%20bows%202016/IMG_9970_zpszqxpeved.jpg) (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/jeffp51/media/trade%20bows%202016/IMG_9970_zpszqxpeved.jpg.html)
and another
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y368/jeffp51/trade%20bows%202016/d46cc537-1b5d-4c02-9d79-c1d390e7933f_zps7rwbe1po.jpg) (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/jeffp51/media/trade%20bows%202016/d46cc537-1b5d-4c02-9d79-c1d390e7933f_zps7rwbe1po.jpg.html)
as you can see, these are two different bows. I am trying to edit a few photos for better presentation.
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ah come on Jeff, your killin me :)
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That's a great looking bow Jeff!! You did some fine work right there! You have my address already I'm sure, I'll be looking for it in the mail. ;)
Tattoo Dave
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I just got really worried. I've was doing some steam straightening last week and today was doing some exercising of the limbs and then I see this. I've never seen crysals, Is this it?
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_0764.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_0764.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_0763.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_0763.jpg.html)
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For anyone interested in all the pics, here is a photobucket slideshow of the two bows I made for this trade. Edited versions now have their own topic started, because I finally feel like I have something I can enter in the bow of the month contest. enjoy. If this breaks the no direct links rule, let me know and I will pull the link off
http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/jeffp51/slideshow/trade%20bows%202016?sort=4 (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/jeffp51/slideshow/trade%20bows%202016?sort=4)
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Im not sure myself janderson. Are those marks localized to that one area?
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Not the best pic but they do appear to be cryshals
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The pattern in the lower picture is over a large portion of one limb and the dark lines in the upper picture is only visible in a glare. I can't feel anything running my nail over it.
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Im not sure myself janderson. Are those marks localized to that one area?
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Jef I know you don't have my address. That bow looks like a RH. You did a fine job! Some body is gonna love it.
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We got a shooting bow folks. Pulled to 29 inches. It's a little under my target weight, but I'm going to fix that by piking it just a little and heat treating the belly. Once I'm done with that, I will start with the finishing. Shoots good, right limb looks a bit funky but I didnt' take pics of the dog leg, I will post some more later. That stave has a lot of twists and turns, and the handle has some weird reflex/deflex unevenness, so tillering was a bit difficult for me.
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Here are a couple other pics I had on my PC showing the dog leg and the limb twist on that funky limb. It also has different reflex on one side of the handle than the other - overall a pretty challenging stave for me. I will get some better pictures of all the character tonight hope.
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Nice lookin bend Sid. Whats she looks like unbraced? Jeff that bow looks awesome. I want to do a rawhide backed bow with some cave art on it myself.
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Here's the sinew backed ERC molle unstrung right after about 50-60 arrows and about 150 total, braced, full draw right ways up, and finally full draw upside down. I've only shot it with stiff spines 500+gr arrows. But it feels good shooting the heavies. I'm happy with the tiller, but would like some opinions before I start all the decorating.
Kyle
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I like the first full draw myself. That bow really came together man...ill admit I was a little skeptical but you really pulled it together. Excellent job!
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Looks good to me Kyle. Well done.
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That's one fine looking bow Kyle! Fantastic work. The tiller looks great too.
Tattoo Dave
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Kyle, that bow looks real good. The tiller looks great and those levers don't appear to be bending. Nice work.
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really cool lookin bow, nice work.
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Definitely the first full draw Kyle.
Makes me want to pull out my ERC stave and get it going! Nice work bud.
Patrick
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Thanks for the compliments everybody. This one definitely had me wondering if it would hold up. It does and shoots well. I just finished flying down the decorative backing. Turkey breast feathers and a couple of base of tail feathers over the fades transitioning to a rosette of breast feathers on the handle. I can't wait for the glue to dry so I can get some tru oil on it and see how it looks cleaned up.
Kyle
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Daaaaaamn! thats gonna be saweet.
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That's gonna be pretty. I seen one Dzan Bar made they look cool in person
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Great work mo coon
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Wow .....looks like you have taken the turkey feather backing up another level ...Cool.. Good Job ;)
Looking forward to seeing it finished up.
DBar
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Very nice bows being made here too.
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I got te feathers trimmed this morning and got a couple coats of tru oil. I'm liking how it's lookig. Though it looked better before I trimmed the feathers I think.
Kyle
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Cant wait to see it with a couple coats of finish kyle. Ya better get some pics in the sun so we can see what it looks like when the light hits it.
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Anyone heard how Fred and his knees/hernia are doing?
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They postponed my hernia until next week due to a conflict with the Dr. schedule. I'm sitting home patiently and somewhat painfully waiting until next Wednesday.
Because of my age/health they only want to do one knee at a time and the first is scheduled for July 12. I was hoping to get them both done at once and be over it.
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All of you that have been following along and participating in this trade can ship when your bows are finished and you determine that your guy is deserving. If you haven't seen your victim posting a finished product I'd advise holding shipment.
You guys all have good judgement and I expect you to ship at your own discretion.
I haven't heard from some of the guys and will make changes at the last moment if necessary but I don't want anyone getting a bow that hasn't worked for it.
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Fred - I have 2 coats of tru oil on my bow. A few more coats and it will be ready to ship. It is hot and humid here so it is taking about 24 hours between coats - probably send it next week.
Is it expected to write on the bow?
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I think you should write on it but leave it up to you. I'd like mine signed by whoever made it.
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Mines ready to go. I'll be shipping ASAP. Thank you!
P.S. I do still need to post finished pics of it and sign it. But it's ready and shoots fine!
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It's looks great to tim. Good job.
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Cant wait to send mine out now! All I have to do is sign her and send her!
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I have two bows shot it and ready to apply finish. I will try to remember to take some pictures to post. So I am close, but not yet ready to ship.
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Mine is shot in and ready except I do need to sign mine yet. I will be shipping soon.
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This trade is gonna get exciting here real soon with all these bows going out. Makes me wish I would've waited to ship mine. But oh well DREWSTER already has it. Now can't wait to see the pics of all the bows when the victims get them.
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My trade bow is going to go out right at the end of July. It has a layer of sinew finishing drying, and I will be working on the decorative stuff over the next couple of weekends before I do the final finish tillering. I have it out to the desired draw length and weight, but the sinew is likely going to wiggle it a little - it's not a lot but I expect a little retiller. But, it will be ready, and it will ship on time. I will post some more pictures soon as well.
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Just chiming in here that I haven't dropped off the face of the planet, but due to the driveway getting ripped apart and repoured (blocking me off from the garage) and some truly sweltering weather, I've stalled out on my bow. I'm hoping to get back to it this weekend, I'm not giving up on it.
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The problem once I ship is then I will just sit here wondering which one is coming my way
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The problem once I ship is then I will just sit here wondering which one is coming my way
See if you can clean up two years straight. Lots off good looking projects.
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Wellp im wrighting the specs on the bow getting ready to finish it with some true oil this weekend then the ole trilam will be ready to ship !!
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I've got a bit more to do to get the bow ready, but the colors of the feathers look awesome with some tru oil on top, so I had to shot it off. I want to run a bead of super glue down each edge unof the feathers so I can sand the edges to a clean line. Then Im going to add an arrow pass out of pink ivory. Once that's in Itll be time to try oil the whole bow.
Kyle
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Looking good Kyle!
Patrick
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Looks great Kyle how many coats it take ya to get where ya are now?
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So far it's at about 6 very thick coats and it just now is starting to fill the voids around the filaments. I think the rest of the coats will be put on when I cover the wood too. So they'll have about 10 more coats total.
Kyle
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Hi Guys,
life has been getting in the way recently but I have finally ordered the linen thread I need to make up some strings and I have finished roughing down my B-stave, will post some pics soon. Managed to keep up with the thread, really enjoying watching all the progress you guys have made while I've been away.
Andrew
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I didn't like the finish i put on my bow so i changed it the a layered anilin dye to create a forested came look to it with layered green black brown I'm on my second coat of polly should be ready to ship in about 3 days
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Here is my trade bow. Let me know what you guy's think please. It's a hickory backed yew board. 63" t2t 40# @ my guy's draw. Finished with 6 coats of tru oil. Leather handle wrap. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks for lookin'. Tim
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Sweet finish idea Kyle!
Tim R, Pretty looking yew there. I for one would be honored to have it. How do you feel it shoots?
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Bowguy, sorry I don't know more about yours but it looks like levers and I'm sure you have it under wraps soon. Ought to be a fun bow. Cool!
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Tim R, Pretty looking yew there. Got a little character to it and looks as if you maneuvered it nicely. I for one would be honored to have it. How do you feel it shoots?
[/quote]
It shoots pretty good and is a lot of fun.
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Nice work tim
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Nice work tim
Thanks guys. And thanks Bob for He help on it.
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Dubois
No real levers its a trilam flat bow with my own varyaition of a hill handle will get pics of it with the finish up in a bit
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Well got 5 coates of tru oil on her sorry for the low light pics would love to hear inputs will have a finial full draw pic up some time in the next few days. For those of you that havent seen much of the build it was all tillered out with in the first month of the trade and im just now getting time to finish it up between work and recently getting married :) very exicited to ship !!
Jason
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More pics
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A lot of really great work being done here! Love those turkey feathers, and that handle cabinetbowguy....wow!- Hammertime
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I've been so busy I haven't done much with the bow! I worked a little bit more last night. Finally built myself a tillering gizmo. Left limb is almost all even except for the tip, which is a little stiff. Right limb is still stiff obviously...
Anything I should be doing?
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160619_155734_zpswla1b1m2.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160619_155734_zpswla1b1m2.jpg.html)
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I think just even out the limbs and get it braced up.
Cabinetbowguy's trilam looks awesome in person with the tru oil on. And shoots real good too. I'll let him post all his details about it. I'd be more than happy to call it mine.
Kyle
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David. Don't worry about the tips not bending. Get that right limb bending like the left. Scrape the flat areas that your gizmo shows you on that right limb. Then once you get that limb bending the same as the left. Then post some more pics and let's see it
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Full draw pic .... tri lam hickory back cherry core osage belly 67.5 " long 1 3/16 " wide pushes a 465 grain arrow 175 fps
55 lbs 29 inches d 97 12 strand
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good lookin bow , with a real nice bend. good work.
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Nice bow cabinetguy
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David. Don't worry about the tips not bending. Get that right limb bending like the left. Scrape the flat areas that your gizmo shows you on that right limb. Then once you get that limb bending the same as the left. Then post some more pics and let's see it
1+
Dang Cabinet, that is impressive!
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Cabinet, I remember that bow from right after the trade started. I was surprised how quickly you were done with it. It really looks nice. Someone will be lucky to get that bow.
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Nice bow cabby...cant wait to get my hands on it! ;) Hoping to letter mine sometime this week and add a couple coats of finish. I also want a little quality time with her before we part ways. Im working on finishing up my stave shed so at least im still feeding the hobby.
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Started on another trilam maple backed cherry core walnut belly gonna see how that wood combo shoots :)
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David - good advice has already been given...it looks like it is coming along just fine. Be careful not to stress it too much before you get the limbs bending equally. And then never pull more than your desired final weight nor pull past a potential problem in the limb.
CBG - that trilam looks nice, you did good! I wish it was coming my way, but the specs don't match mine :'(.
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I finally got the arrow pass inleyed and shaped. And a first coat of tru oil over the wood. I LOVE the colors in this bow after just one coat. Once it's fully coated and polished it'll be hard to send away.
Kyle
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Forgot the pic
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Looks great kyle....what did you use for the arrow pass?
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It's a piece of pink ivory. That stuff is very hard and dense. It was my first time working with a wood more dense than water. And I think it'll do te job perfectly.
Kyle
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Looks like Yew on steroids ;D ;D
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Looking good Kyle. Don't get much purty than ERC
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Nice touch to an already beautiful bow Kyle.
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Very nice cabinetguy! Things are looking good on everyone's stuff. I know I would be proud to have any of them.
I noticed my last post on my progress said I had "shot it". In case it wasn't clear, I meant to say "shot-in". I am working on the stain and finish now, will try to post some progress pictures later.
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You said that good Loope.....aint seen a bow yet I wouldn't like to have....if the proof is in the pudding then this is a great trade. Sure proud to be a part of it fellas.
rich
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Well it is off. I put another 50 arrows through it yesterday and decided I had to get that bow in the mail before I became any more attached to it. Be looking on your porch about Saturday. Somebody is going to get a nice yew stick and string. Now all I can do is sit and drool at all the bows being finished up and wish they were all coming my way. . .
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I'm with you guys. Some excellent bows here. Fantastic job to all of you.
I returned from the clinic this morning just prior to lunch. I'm sore but a lot better than I've been for the last 2 weeks. Hope the knee replacements go as smooth as the hernia procedure.
Hopefully can get some final tillering and finish work done after a few more days since it will be light scraping/sanding.
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glad to hear your doing better Fred, don't push it to hard. i know sittin around doin nothin sucks but sittin around in even more pain, sucks harder.
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I hope you come through it with flying colors Fred!!
Took the trade bow out after dinner and shot three arrows..one arrow three shots. At 15 yards they would have been touching. There were a few spots on the finish that I was gonna touch up...but I think im gonna letter the bow tonight....put three more coats of laquer on her and ship her out!! It will be tough packin her up....but...i cant wait to get my trade bow!!
This has been a great time and I look forward to participating again!
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Hey guys. I'm just checking in. Haven't found time for bow work for a while but am hoping to in the next few days. Plan a just needs a few more coats of finish and a handle wrap. Heat treated a dogwood bow back in April and am going to try to get it shooting this weekend. Then I will decide which to send out.
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Man Kyle, you really put the works to it! I wish I had time to just do bows and sit and read and drool over the stuff being created in this trade.
I got 3 coats tru oil on plan b as of ten minutes ago and will be posting some pics of plan a when I get time to do it justice and when I get rid of the heebie jeebies about being so close on this sinew bow and not wanting to screw it up. Also got the skins for it in and o skinned bow so far so I really want to have no distractions or be hurried when get to it.
Glad you got the first procedure out of the way Fred. I've had people tell me on post op day 1 that they already felt better than before knee surgery so I hope that's what you got in store buddy.
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Here is my finishing picture. I am using aniline dyes to get a two-tone look, with the redbud underlays left natural. It might need one more application of the dye, will check tomorrow, but am hoping it is ready to apply the tru-oil.
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That looks great loope....it will look even better all slicked up!
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Lookin good loope. I'm loving the two toned look.
Kyle
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there should be a long black tube sitting on someone's porch right now. Might be a good time to take an early weekend--just saying. . .
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oh man jeff...a guy can dream cant he?!
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Man Jeff I wish it was at my house but it's a RH so I guess I will stay at work. But somebody is gonna be very happy.
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I can't wait to see who gets it. That's a beautiful piece of yew.
Kyle
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Sorry gut-i do a lot of things left handed(writing) so I feel for you. I see the same thing when people announce their bow has a 25 inch draw and I need it to be another 4 inches
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I can't wait to see who gets it.... I bet the smile on their face will be priceless. That's one fine bow and love the cave man art....
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Alright, I just got home a little while ago and found a long tube from Jeff sitting in my house. My wife knew it was here and she did not tell me!!!! That piece of yew is unbelievable. I feel like I won the lottery today. I couldn't have asked for a better bow. After I got it unpackaged and got done drooling I took it right out and shot it for about 30 minutes. It hits right where I look every time and is dead in my hand. I LOVE THIS BOW! Yes, that is me yelling. Thank you Jeff for this unbelievable piece of art.
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Jeff and Swampman congrats to both of you fellas...hope ya both realize that the bows in our lowly trade are the equal of ANY made by anyone. I would like to say again I'm really proud to be in this trade with all of you fellas.
rich
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Rich, thanks. And Mike, you are very welcome. For two years now I have sent off the best bow I have ever made, and it makes me feel good to be able to share with someone who appreciates it. I am glad it shoots where you point. It never quite worked like that for me :o but it is smooth and I hope you enjoy it for a long time. Thanks to Fred too for supplying the wood.
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Congrats Swamp! And a job well done Jeff.
Sent mine trade bow off today- I am guessing it will arrive Tuesday or Wednesday of next week. Here are some pics. Sorry no full draw - no one home to take pics.
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Here are a few more pics. All boxed up wrapped in bubble wrap and on its way.
Mitch
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Damned MW.....what a beauty sir, wish it was my specs sir. Somebody gonna be real happy with that
rich
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Way to go mitch!!! My drawlength is 27"! Oh well ill take it just the same! ;D
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Nice Mitch. What kind of wood is it?
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Jeff, superb bow out of that yew. I'm sure he is thrilled and congratulations Mike. Enjoy that fine bow.
Mitch, your guy is going to be elated.
All of you deserve an applause for the effort you are putting forth.
Thank you for getting involved and making my job so easy and rewarding.
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Thanks guys - hope my guy likes it as much as I enjoyed making it.
Ajooter - I could have just gone to 28" to make sure it wasn't going to snap - maybe I only needed 27" :laugh:
Jeff - it is hackberry - my favorite white wood.
Well said Fred. You did a great job getting this going!
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Nice Mitch. I hear hackberry makes a snappy bow.
Some really great looking bows on the table!
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Real nice looking hackberry bow mwosborn.
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Jeff and Swampman congrats to both of you fellas...hope ya both realize that the bows in our lowly trade are the equal of ANY made by anyone. I would like to say again I'm really proud to be in this trade with all of you fellas.
rich
You know what rich you are the ONLY one that said this was a lowly trade get the chip off your shoulder fer crying out loud ::)
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Loope, I love that color fade! Never have been able to get that effect.
MW, man that is a beautiful bow. I'll keep watchin at my front door ;D
Seeing that yew of Jeff's go to Mike is a little easier looking at the other sweet bows still being made.
I'm off for 5 days after tonight so I am gonna get some time into it soon.
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Kids decided to lend a hand with pics during tillering. ;D
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Lookin good Dubois....might be a hair stiff out of that upper fade. Looks like yoir almost there though.
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Hey Bubby,
Disclaimer: This is an answer to a personal comment and will not highkack this thread. It's my answer tyo a direct question and will not be re-answered.
Whats up with gettin personal, eh? All you A team guys are the ones who got all "exclusive" with your officially PA sponsored, selected trade thread. This trade thread has been "trolled" since it started so maybe I ought to set ya strait on a couple of items.
1. When you set yourselves above everybody else then dont be surprised when some folks dont like getting "talked down to".
2. Your trade is all about what you will get in return for your superior work...not passing it on.
3. A disclaimer on page one , and all the back-peddling in the world will not change what all of you did. "Perception is reality" and you cant hide the perception that you set yourselves above everybody else.
4. If there is any "chips on the shoulder" take a look in a mirror
5. All of you A team guys are all about saying anything to anybody anytime you want to....but now you cry foul when ya get called out for a real bad decision.
Lastly, if ya want to take this outside, then start a thread....I'll be happy to give you some truth....30 to 1 may not be fair odds so get yourself a few more guys, eh 8)
rich
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First off rich you started the A team crap, you started the B team crap and you are the one that keeps making personal digs!!!! You take everything as a personal attack . our trade isn't an "offically sponsered p.a. trade" just a bunch of us making a personal trade so YOU get your facts straight!! I'm done with this b.s.
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Jeeesh guy's your going to put the A-team out of business with these beauties... Nice curves Stix and brilliant idea on the rawhide ajooter...I guarantee we will see some more burning on rawhide in the future...
Don
Bubby,
I'm the one that started the A-team, get YOUR facts straight...A lot of PA members here feel separated...What does the A stand for? >:D
Don
P.S. I won't respond further, said my part...
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wow Mitch, that is one sweet hackberry. whoever your guy is will be one lucky fella. Dube's that bendy looks awesome.
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Oh fellas cant we all just get along....i can see reasons on both sides why people may take offense...but in the end we are all here to pursue a hobby that we all love. I understand with some of the happenings last year why the "invitational" guys did what they did. I also can see how some of the "annual" trade guys may feel left out.
Lets everybody take the high rode swallow our pride and let it be. Dont post this stuff on here anyway if ya want to have a pissing match do it in another thread. It takes away from what we have going here.
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Oh fellas cant we all just get along....i can see reasons on both sides why people may take offense...but in the end we are all here to pursue a hobby that we all love. I understand with some of the happenings last year why the "invitational" guys did what they did. I also can see how some of the "annual" trade guys may feel left out.
Lets everybody take the high rode swallow our pride and let it be. Dont post this stuff on here anyway if ya want to have a pissing match do it in another thread. It takes away from what we have going here.
[/quote
Well spoken. I agree
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Swampman congrats on a super nice yew bow built by JeffP51
Mitch that's a very nice looking bow you built. Love the faded finish work and really like the red and yellow dots down the back
Loop love the faded finish work also. Great job
Dubois nice bow you got there. Does the kids come with it?
I would be happy as a peacock to receive any of these bows.
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I like that bow Jeff, have from the start. Somebody will be a happy archer.
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Well, I think 5 coats of tung oil will do it... it got a wee bit on the humid side up here (it's been a very wet June for us), so it took a while longer for the tung oil to dry. I think I got the first few coats on before the humidity got crazy, so hopefully the bow has been protected from it.
I'm going to get the string whipped out today and shoot it with the bow a bunch tomorrow and Monday. Then I'll get the final pics ready to go.
On a side note, if it matters to any of you... I've never gotten the impression that this was a trade for the "sub-standard" bowyers. Many of the bows I've seen on this trade are superb. I also never got the impression from any of the people who commented in this thread who are participating in the invitational trade that they were looking down at us from up on high. They've been just as helpful as the other experienced bowyers who are participating in this trade and I am glad that they took the time to look at the threads posted here and weighed in with their advice.
Just my $.02, take it for what you will.
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Thank you for that Ty. I agree that there are indeed some fine bows and superb craftsmanship being exhibited on this thread. I also think kudos are in order for Fred for doing such a fine job keeping it going.
As for the other bit, speaking purely for myself accepting the invitation for the invitational was never a matter of setting myself apart let alone "above" anyone. Quite frankly, I resent the hell out of the implication. I'm no better than anyone else and anyone that says different can kiss my furry pimple ridden donkey! I'm sick of this BS!
That being said, Ty where are you in the great state of ND? We don't seem to have many members from North Dakota. I'm headed for Mandan today and Minot on Monday. Josh
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Thank you for that Ty. I agree that there are indeed some fine bows and superb craftsmanship being exhibited on this thread. I also think kudos are in order for Fred for doing such a fine job keeping it going.
As for the other bit, speaking purely for myself accepting the invitation for the invitational was never a matter of setting myself apart let alone "above" anyone. Quite frankly, I resent the hell out of the implication. I'm no better than anyone else and anyone that says different can kiss my furry pimple ridden donkey! I'm sick of this BS!
That being said, Ty where are you in the great state of ND? We don't seem to have many members from North Dakota. I'm headed for Mandan today and Minot on Monday. Josh
You da man..couldnt agree more...its call a badonkadonk anyway ;D
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I think the current bow trade format is probably the best way to run things. From where I'm standing there is a lot less negativity happening currently as apposed to last year. I'll continue to participate in the open trade and if I ever get an invite, I'll do that one too. While the bows produced by everyone are truly equal in the sense that they are are labors of love with the makers heart and soul poured into them, there is quite a range of experience and skill represented by the members of this site. With the current set up, no one gets left out and no one should feel like the exchange was unfair. Plus as a self admitted "greenhorn" the potential for an invite after I build up my bowyer resume, can be great motivation. It a goal I can achieve that depends on the critiques of the more experienced members of the site. Art school was very similar and it proved a quick and effective way to improve understanding and skill set. As a whole I don't think of the participants of the invite trade as elitists, but rather a wonderful resource of teachers, advisers, fellow bowyers, and more or less friends. I may have never met many members of this site face to face, but if you weren't here I wouldn't be able to talk bows/building with anyone. My wife would have run away screaming by now if I hadn't found a more receptive crowd for discussions of this particular interest of mine. I would then be left babbling things about tiller, set, string follow, and cast to random strangers on the bus, which could easily end up with me in a straight jacket.
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You guys have a great trade going on here. There are some great bows being posted. I just hope the bitterness of one man doesn't bring this trade down anymore than it already has.
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Josh, I'm from Grand Forks! I guess I wouldn't expect very many North Dakotans since there aren't very many of us to begin with. ;) I won't be too terribly close to where you'll be driving, but if your adventures ever take you to eastern ND or NW Minnesota, let me know! It would always be great to meet and chat with someone from here .
Well, here's a quick pic of the string. I hope he's not a Packers fan :P Now to shoot it in!
(http://i.imgur.com/ufk0lEb.jpg?1)
Barring any monumental catastrophes, this bow is pretty much done. However, it's still my second string bow. I will actually have time this upcoming week to continue work on the trilam. I really want to get the trilam finished for the trade, as I've seen the bow my trade made for his and I really want to make him something as nice. Not that there's anything particularly wrong with the plan B bow, I just want to make the best bow I can.
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Looks good TY
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You guys have a great trade going on here. There are some great bows being posted. I just hope the bitterness of one man doesn't bring this trade down anymore than it already has.
You seem to have some pretty big gonads with a response like that and I personally take offense to it.
Mr. Rouseau has been an uplifting and very distinguished part of this trade offering more help than any other member in my opinion. He is entitled to his opinion and my apologies if you don't like it.
This trade is coming along just fine and I'm proud to have all of the members involved working diligently on their projects. Keep the good work guys and gals.
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the bows in our lowly trade are the equal of ANY made by anyone.
rich
The bows on the other thread are certainly not that good. Or at least nobody is claiming they are the equal of Nels Grumley.
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You guys have a great trade going on here. There are some great bows being posted. I just hope the bitterness of one man doesn't bring this trade down anymore than it already has.
You seem to have some pretty big gonads with a response like that and I personally take offense to it.
Mr. Rouseau has been an uplifting and very distinguished part of this trade offering more help than any other member in my opinion. He is entitled to his opinion and my apologies if you don't like it.
This trade is coming along just fine and I'm proud to have all of the members involved working diligently on their projects. Keep the good work guys and gals.
And I'm entitled to my opinion. He seems to be very bitter about the invitational trade. Maybe because he wasn't invited. I don't know. I wasn't involved in running it so I don't know if he was asked to join or not. Maybe if he truly understood the reasons for the invitational trade he wouldn't feel the way that he does. Nobody that I know of from the invitational trade has made any negative posts about your trade or the people in it. The only negative comments are coming from him. In my opinion that is hurting the spirit of your trade. He is the one that referred to this as the lowly trade. It wasn't anyone from the invitational.
Life is to short to always be pissed off and looking for a fight. That is something I tell myself all the time. We don't know how many days we have left to walk this earth. I'm trying to make the most of out my time as I can.
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You are entitled to your opinion and I'd as soon you took it somewhere else.
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I'm just kind of a hack trying to keep up with some of the best bowyers this country and actually the world have produced recently. I know that I have nailed a couple of bows pretty well but it is actually more normal for me to go and mess around with it too long and end up having to pike it or heat it or scrap it or come in under wt. I am an advanced beginner at best and I know it; but damn I love doing this stuff when I have the time and I know this site and all the folks here have put me way past where I could have gone on my own.
I'd be a little intimidated trying to make a bow for someone I see as a superior bowyer and I don't mind not being invited for whatever reasons. I see no reason for any hard feelings on this site since we are all here voluntarily. Take what you like and leave the rest alone; participate at your leisure people ;) 8). I am grateful I got this at all.
Free lessons and a bow in the mail???
Shitaki mushrooms! It don't get much easier than that.
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Thanks TimothyR, Bent Badly, Dubois, Sixstones, and Gutshot.
DuBois - you tiller is looking pretty good to me.
Ty - plan B doesn't look to shabby!
As far as hard feelings - none felt here. I am with DuBois - grateful to have a site like this to go to and learn. I have seen some great looking bows on all the trades that are going on - well done gentlemen.
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I'm just having fun making bows. No time to get bent out of shape - that's what work is for. I have appreciated the positive words - even when I post the ugliest thing i could find as a joke, Ajooter still had something nice to say.
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Ok first thing I have to say and the only thing I have to say is sorry if I make anybody mad or hurt anybody's feelings. But please stop all the talk about who said what about what ever. I DONT CARE.... And I speak for most in this trade I think. If you people want to continue this childish nonsense then please start a thread in the campfire section. If you guys don't want to then I will start one and everybody that wants to continue the BS about the trades then you all can post on it. but I want be on there. I will continue to read the other threads including all 3 trades becouse I enjoy seeing the bows being built!!! So please just move it somewhere else!!! Thanks Paul
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I just like bows.
Also, since I got my trade bow from Jeff, no one could wipe this smile off of my face.
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Glad I've missed all the BS......I'll just stick to working on bows, thank you all.
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Swamp man congrats on that bow when we gonna see some pics
Drewster how's that Hickory coming along
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Gutshot, well, I'm under weight for where I wanted to be but the bow is shaping up really nicely. I'm pleased with this one. I started shooting her in today. Got the handle rough shaped and now for the tip overlays. This trade has been good but I've not had good luck with my bows.......yet :-)
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There are some great bows being posted on all three trades. But this is part of the reason I got in on the "other" bow trade. I don't need some peoples drama. I've given away more bows then I've ever received.
I'm looking forward to seeing more bows. With three trades going it has opened the site to more Bow Porn.
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Gut, I have a remodelling project going on this weekend. I worked from sunrise to about an hour ago on it. Will do the same tomorrow. After this weekend is over I will get some pictures.
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When we first started these bow trades years ago it was to encourage newbies to get in but also to showcase what can be done with a simple piece of wood. I'd also say we, the collective wood bow builders of the world, changed the thinking about the effectiveness and beauty of wood bows. For me, it builds confidence in oneself and helps a person do his(or her) best work. I know it can be intimidating trying to build a bow for an experienced bowyer but, at least back then it did turn some bow building wanna-be's into seasoned wood bow builders. I see many of them here on PA today.
The reason I got into the Invitational bow trade is because I was invited and encouraged to. I hadn't built a bow in over a year and didn't see myself building another one in the foreseeable future. I have to thank Eddie(mullet) and a few others for "making" me get in...and I'm so glad I did. I didn't do it to be an elitist. Anyone that knows me knows that is about as far as you can get describing me. If anything I'm totally the opposite.
There is and always has been, and always will be room for "another" bow trade. We have had 1 on 1 bow trades going on since I first got on PA. How is that different? I'm tired of the divisiveness here on PA as much as I am with is going on in our country and as a matter of fact all over the world. These kinds of actions only lead to more divisions and hatred. We are all here to learn to build wood bows. We are all here to share ideas, to show off our new work and to praise, encourage, teach, learn and enjoy. Divisive actions do none of these things and is so counter productive that is does the exact opposite
I'm a long time member of two online archery websites; Primitive Archer and Trad Gang. There have many archery related websites that have passed under the bridge but these two sites have remained on top by first off, keeping the civility but also encouragement and teaching/learning aspects of archery at the forefront and not only discourages the negativity, name calling and elitism but plainly said, not allowing them.
We come here to PA from all walks of life, from many different countries and cultures, many beliefs, ethnicities and economic levels. As long as we stick to wood bow building, no matter how diverse, we all get along. I don't care what else your thoughts, beliefs or aspirations are, all I wanna do is build wood bows, teach others what I learned from others in the past and show off and look at the great bows that the fine folks on this site produce. Putting someone else down or the way they do things is, first off, is anti-productive but also just wrong. Continuing on that vein will only help to destroy our wonderful website, the many friendships made here and our global family of the bow.
...so ends my caffeine induced sermon for this day. ;D
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Thank you Pat B. Good timing and it couldn't have been said it any better.
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Well said Pat
To amend an old saying,"Think twice, type once"
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Nicely put Pat.
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(http://i.imgur.com/ELdhGVf.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/RfUrY28.jpg?1)
Got her lettered...gonna throw three more coats of laquer on her and get her on the way. Im working in New Jersey till Wednesday so I probbaly wont get the bow in the mail till Thursday or Friday.
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Dang Ajooter that bow is looking good! what we can see of it. Hope it shows up on my back porch. Keep up the good work.
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Dang Ajooter that bow is looking good! what we can see of it. Hope it shows up on my back porch. Keep up the good work.
+1
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Thanks Ajooter
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/ABBA1951-6F59-4497-91CC-8384988B108C_zpscnkoaize.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/ABBA1951-6F59-4497-91CC-8384988B108C_zpscnkoaize.jpg.html)
Just having some fun
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Well said Pat. There are great bows being made on all 3 trades. I think the "elitist" talk all started on the original thread with a comment about people joining the trade should already be capable of making great and amazing bows. I'm confused how someone could think that's not an elitist mindset, but what ever. There are a few people who feel that way, and that's fine, kind off the opposite of what the trade is supposed to be, but your all welcome to feel that way. There are also a lot of people who feel the same way I do about it, and those are valid feelings!! Everyone is welcome to their opinion. Now stop acting like my kids, and let's move on!
Like many have said, there are lot's of great bows being made on all 3 trades, let's enjoy it.
Tattoo Dave
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As a kid most people learn about the pain of being cut from the rep team or not even getting invited.
Typically you would either try to raise your game or just cry and whine that everyone belongs out there.
Next year perhaps a vote should be done with a selected number of people on the final list.
It would be interesting to see how many of those objecting about elitism would turn down an invite. ;)
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ahahaha...you da man Gut! as they say with the ny lottery..." hey ya never know!"
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I don't know of anyone whining about not being invited. Simply put, there was a better way of going about introducing the invitational trade. And to be frank we're not trying out for the varsity team here! We're just making and trading some bows, and up until this year there was only one"team" or trade I guess. Anyway...
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High-jack alert....high-jack alert.....high-jack alert !!!!!!
Danger, Danger Will Robinson
Refer to page 204, half eye post....last sentence....start another thread.
rich
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Stir, stir,,,,
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I started a thread on the campfire section please take your comments about who ever or what ever over there and let us talk about the bows in the trade over here. Thanks Paul
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Thank you Pat B!
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Nice Ajooter! Its new owner will be thrilled.
I am in that slow, waiting for finish to cure stage... I put the second coat of tru-oil on today. A few more coats over this next week, and then ready for the grip and lettering!
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Nice looking bow ajooter!!
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Ill do a formal posting of the bow when its all done...ty guys!
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Ajooter, that bow is still looking real good.
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Nice Ajooter! Its new owner will be thrilled.
I am in that slow, waiting for finish to cure stage... I put the second coat of tru-oil on today. A few more coats over this next week, and then ready for the grip and lettering!
Im not sure where you live. But, if you can get it in the direct sun/breeze it will cure very quickly. Providing the humidity isn't through the roof.
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Thanks PD, I am in East TN, so the humidity can sometimes get a little high. I have been doing the tru-oil inside, which bows sounds like it would cure more slowly due to the air conditioning. I will give your suggestion a try. Thanks for the tip!
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Ok I'm at work and my daughter Lauren calls me hyperventilating I finally get her calmed down enough to talk normal and she told me my trade bow arrived And she wanted to open it. So she faced timed me and opened it. Wow was that bow ever wrapped up good. I couldn't have had as much fun opening it myself as I did watching Lauren open it. Anyways I would like to thank Mitch for building this awesome looking bow even though I haven't seen it in person yet. I will make another post later after I get to shoot it and get some more pics of it.
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/A99C3F8B-337E-4D6A-86EA-A9541C5F516F_zps0hghvis8.png) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/A99C3F8B-337E-4D6A-86EA-A9541C5F516F_zps0hghvis8.png.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/51D56EE9-04E4-46D2-BEE1-B55631603663_zps0na1p4pq.png) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/51D56EE9-04E4-46D2-BEE1-B55631603663_zps0na1p4pq.png.html)
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Ya gotta love technology haha....congrats that is a beauty!!
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Well that is cool as a cucumber Paul. Technology is amazing. Hope you like it when you get home.
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:'( :'( :'(
No really, congratulations Gut. You deserve and awesome bow and you got one.
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a final check....hickory with bull snake(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/20160627_1650151_zpsjyipxmza.jpg) (http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/jeffreyakolste/media/20160627_1650151_zpsjyipxmza.jpg.html)
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Full Draw......OK?.....think I am ready to ship(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/20160627_165240_zpsmfpdknce.jpg) (http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/jeffreyakolste/media/20160627_165240_zpsmfpdknce.jpg.html)
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Hammer, I'm thinking the outer thirds could bend just a touch more. Looks pretty darn good though.
Tattoo Dave
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I'm sorry for not having been more active with this. Between work and being sick and everything else I've not had time to upload anything. I get off work tomorrow morning at 8 am I'll be sure to upload something. I kept it simple and easy and I really hope it measures up to the amazing bows I've seen on this thread. I really feel bad for not staying up to date with this.
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I have like 200+ shots through this bow and I really was hoping not to mess with it anymore, I like how it shoots and feels but thanks Dave - Hammertime
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I have to agree with dave hammer....whats the unbraced profile look like? Where are you at on draw weight? Any room for a little wood removal? Run a gizmo or a sttaight edge along those limbs and youll see the outers are a little stiff. Is it an assymetrical design?
Sorry bout all the questions brother....i love those skins!!
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man o man, it just keeps gettin better around here. Gut , u lucky summuva ......
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Here's my advice for what it's worth; I think the upper limb needs some more scraping out of the Fade and then the outer third to get it bending a little more even. Other then thatlooks good and like your shirt. I was born in Pensacola.
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Here's my advice for what it's worth; I think the upper limb needs some more scraping out of the Fade and then the outer third to get it bending a little more even. Other then thatlooks good and like your shirt. I was born in Pensacola.
×2😉
×2
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Here are some pictures of me and the awesome yew bow I received from Jeff. Shooting this bow gives "smooth" a new meaning to me.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/02B987E2-3DC8-4A42-9B57-0B9C4C449B3D_zpspbkfge3y.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/02B987E2-3DC8-4A42-9B57-0B9C4C449B3D_zpspbkfge3y.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/A9186CF9-B78E-4586-8A07-5D22369B6C5E_zpsbkfyarzb.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/A9186CF9-B78E-4586-8A07-5D22369B6C5E_zpsbkfyarzb.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/2C2CC820-86F1-47C7-9D96-6BBFB6205D8A_zpsey1kbkmc.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/2C2CC820-86F1-47C7-9D96-6BBFB6205D8A_zpsey1kbkmc.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/4DC25FD0-4B91-4A0F-A0B3-8CC6643D6138_zps9r4jey0g.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/4DC25FD0-4B91-4A0F-A0B3-8CC6643D6138_zps9r4jey0g.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/0B32076D-DF08-42A8-91B3-A80D69CD2DBF_zps3uwk4bo3.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/0B32076D-DF08-42A8-91B3-A80D69CD2DBF_zps3uwk4bo3.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/1AE77438-E858-486F-A83A-799BE3858B82_zpscr47tbrl.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/1AE77438-E858-486F-A83A-799BE3858B82_zpscr47tbrl.jpg.html)
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That's just super nice ! See you still have that smile
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I thought it would be fun to show some pictures of my trade bow with the bow I received from Jeff. My trade bow will be sent out Wednesday.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/B76BD8FA-75D5-4D52-9520-98A3E3C19C60_zpstouyxrru.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/B76BD8FA-75D5-4D52-9520-98A3E3C19C60_zpstouyxrru.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/BEF3747F-650A-4BDF-8EA5-D773AAC52650_zpsxkndywao.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/BEF3747F-650A-4BDF-8EA5-D773AAC52650_zpsxkndywao.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/4C22E53D-B285-4F85-B212-EA4CE5D4F006_zpswczyzso2.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/4C22E53D-B285-4F85-B212-EA4CE5D4F006_zpswczyzso2.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/E1B2D895-3774-40C4-9EEA-A6B4332A5A0A_zpse8pabjre.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/E1B2D895-3774-40C4-9EEA-A6B4332A5A0A_zpse8pabjre.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/DB038355-B178-4118-A70D-4BB1645FBAC4_zps30os7eyj.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/DB038355-B178-4118-A70D-4BB1645FBAC4_zps30os7eyj.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/BE19DCED-1946-42FD-B849-FFBD80E83891_zpss3niqg2s.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/BE19DCED-1946-42FD-B849-FFBD80E83891_zpss3niqg2s.jpg.html)
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That's a great looking stick! Jeff did some fine work right there, and love the art work on the back!
Tattoo Dave
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That looks great!
That artwork is just great looking,
That's not a bow to be shot, it's a bow to be admired 😂
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I keep seeing beautiful bows going out, and more of them still being made. Those both are very fine works! Really digging that handle/fade area thing you got goin on.
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Hammer, I'm thinking the outer thirds could bend just a touch more. Looks pretty darn good though.
Tattoo Dave
I gotta agree also, that is without seeing the unbraced profile. That said, I know we can't see all that you can when it' in your hands so rock on man.
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Swampman, that is a nice smile on your face!
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Swampman - both those bows look great!
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Two sharp bows there Swampman, the one from Jeff and the one your sending out, both very nice.
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Two sharp bows there Swampman, the one from Jeff and the one your sending out, both very nice.
Receiving the bow from Jeff sure makes it easier to part with the bow I made.
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That looks great!
That artwork is just great looking,
That's not a bow to be shot, it's a bow to be admired 😂
You better believe that bow will shoot. It would be a shame to just hang it on the wall.
Mike it is so good to see that smile on your face. I don't know if you hunt, but if you do and decide to use that yew bow, make sure to let me know if you are successful with it. I really like the bow you have made there. It would be something if that one were to be sent back to Utah. I suppose the odds are slim for that, but someone is going to like it. Happy shooting
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Of course Jeff!
Every bow needs to be shot 😉
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Man these bows being posted sure are sweet looking!
Jeff you made a "killer" bow buddy!
Swampman, you trade bow is beautiful as well.
Hammer, I agree it might need a tiller tweeak. It looks to me though that you are holding the string kinda high in your full draw pic.
Can you post an unbraced picture?
Patrick
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Forgot, Gut.
That's awesome that your daughter is that excited for you. Sometimes technology really pays off.
The only question I got is where is all the sawdust on the garage floor?
Oh, and have you shot it yet?
Patrick
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hammer, my eyes see your hold exactly where you want it to be. Opinions will vary but I totally disagree with lhf. I would though like to see the unbraced pic.
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Forgot, Gut.
That's awesome that your daughter is that excited for you. Sometimes technology really pays off.
The only question I got is where is all the sawdust on the garage floor?
Oh, and have you shot it yet?
Patrick
That's the garage we park in my work garage in the base Kent well...... You can't see the floor in it.. But hopefully soon you can. I've been building me another garage to move my hobbies too. Wife says to much dust in the house😁
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You better believe that bow will shoot. It would be a shame to just hang it on the wall.
Mike it is so good to see that smile on your face. I don't know if you hunt, but if you do and decide to use that yew bow, make sure to let me know if you are successful with it. I really like the bow you have made there. It would be something if that one were to be sent back to Utah. I suppose the odds are slim for that, but someone is going to like it. Happy shooting
[/quote]
Jeff, I do hunt. My next task will be to make a set of hunting arrows to match this bow so I can deer hunt with it this fall. If I am successful I will most definitely post pictures and let you know.
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Yeah that is awesome that your girl is so excited about the bows Paul!
I am going to put skins on the sinew today and am a little hesitant, but have asked the kids if they want to help.
Who needs perfectly straight skins on their bow anyway? :o :P
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hammer, my eyes see your hold exactly where you want it to be. Opinions will vary but I totally disagree with lhf. I would though like to see the unbraced pic.
I took a minute to study the pic again. I think you right Fred about where he is hand is on the string. It's got to be the angle he is standing.
But If he can post an unbraced picture we could tell if the outer thirds are a little stiff or if there is some reflex out there.
Patrick
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The the trilam is on its way :)
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here goes(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/950ec5a3-76bd-4fec-a0dd-69784b4903c7_zpsggw3pksp.jpg) (http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/jeffreyakolste/media/950ec5a3-76bd-4fec-a0dd-69784b4903c7_zpsggw3pksp.jpg.html)
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unbraced...(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/3dca9a05-1886-462e-b9a9-84bc5130a5ba_zpseosbzvyv.jpg) (http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/jeffreyakolste/media/3dca9a05-1886-462e-b9a9-84bc5130a5ba_zpseosbzvyv.jpg.html)
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Thanks for advice all....Hammertime
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Awesome bows swampman....
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Hammer, I think you need to scrape the outer limbs a little bit about 4-6 inches in from the tips to almost half way up. 10-20 scrapes on each and then exercise it to about the same draw length.
Don't over scrape as you are getting real close.
Some of these younger guys have better eyes than I do for tiller so wait until a few of them chime in.
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That left limb seems a little stiff from the fade out to midlimb...unbraced still looks good tho!
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+1 on what Fred and Jooter said. It won't take much bud.
Patrick
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Hammertime you are bad close I'm with Fred and Ajooter. You will get it!
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Looking at it again I'd take twenty scrapes on the top limb and only 10 on the bottom both from mid limb out.
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Ok thanks all I'll give it a go and since I have only one eye, I trust you guys more than myself-Hammertime
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On the left limb I would scrape from shutter number six, up from the bottom to about 4' from the tip. It is stiff and needs to bend. Stay away from the Fades on both sides as you are not far from hinging both limbs. Then scrape from the thread wrap to about 4" from the end on the right limb.
You are almost there, now it's time to slow down. Don't get in a rhythm, scrape a little and check it on the tree.
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On the left limb I would scrape from shutter number six, up from the bottom to about 4' from the tip. It is stiff and needs to bend. Stay away from the Fades on both sides as you are not far from hinging both limbs. Then scrape from the thread wrap to about 4" from the end on the right limb.
You are almost there, now it's time to slow down. Don't get in a rhythm, scrape a little and check it on the tree.
I agree! Bow is looking nice!
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Cabinetbowguy - I will be watching my door step for that blue tube. :laugh:
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Cabinet, did you post any pics of the tri lam bow, I may have missed it. Just wondering what your sending me! ;)
Tattoo Dave
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For you Tattoo Dave
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(http://i.imgur.com/XzwIon1.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/jC3x2cI.jpg)
this is a weird picture. a breeze came through and kinda turned it a bit so it looks like the bottom limb is off...
(http://i.imgur.com/xrK1DYI.jpg)
lets hear your guys criticism. hopefully I got this tiller just right.
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kid, it is hard to tell without a straight on picture. How far do you have it tillered out? It looks good from what I can see, but have someone take a pic while you hold it straight up and down and draw it a ways - but not past your target weight.
Even if you turn the tillering stick 90 degrees from where it is right now and take a pic from the same position, it will be better, but that will leave the bow drawn for a long time and possibly cause some set.
I think you are making progress. What wood is it?
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A piece of hickory board I had in my garage. Made kind of an elb style bow. It's tillered out to 52-53lbs at 26 inches. So around 55-57 lbs at 28" fits my guy good I think
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top limb looks stiff midlimb out kid
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Kid - you may have already posted this, but I don't remember...what is the length of your bow? Looks like your going for a bendy handle? A picture with it drawn to your weight would be good. The pic you have posted looks to be drawn to around 8-10". From what I can see though, it is looking ok - maybe a little stiff outer third. Keep posting progress.
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The tips are recurved a bit. Also the only reason it's drawn the way it is is because thats kind of a make shift tiller stick. It draws back to 28" fully.
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Nice looking bow cabinetbowguy.
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Thats drawn to 28"?!
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Alright boys, she goes out tomorrow.
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Wow Stix's I love for that one to be coming my way...... :) ;)
DBar
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Wow Stix's I love for that one to be coming my way...... :) ;)
DBar
You know it Bill that is a sweet bow i even had it in my grubby paws😜
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Somebody is going to like finding that package on their front porch. Great work Stix
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Come on sevens!!
Sure hope to get a reeeeeally close look at that stix bow >:D
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Awesome tiller cabinetbowguy, sweet design too.
Stix, your recipient should dig that bow, I know I did when I got a look at it at Marshall.
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Oh yah - another chance at getting a package on the porch. Fingers are crossed.
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I had to go out of town for a few days, will get back home Sunday. My bow has several coats of tru oil already, so I should be ready to ship next week. I had planned to complete it this weekend, but sometimes things just get in the way. But it will be a good weekend never the less.
There sure is a lot of bow posting happening! Things are really getting exciting.
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This is going out tomorrow too.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/02E22327-6BA4-4454-BD22-0EC6F498F1C7_zps8e87aj0k.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/02E22327-6BA4-4454-BD22-0EC6F498F1C7_zps8e87aj0k.jpg.html)
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t475/Mrpdap/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/74DCD255-044B-4F54-B774-F2A2DCC762D9_zpsexnmsdp4.jpg) (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Mrpdap/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/74DCD255-044B-4F54-B774-F2A2DCC762D9_zpsexnmsdp4.jpg.html)
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That tube came to me from Mikekeswick in England. I sent it to you, now you send it onward. I feel like each destination should be carved into it someplace. It would be fun if it came back to me sometime.
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3 being shipped! Odds are going up!
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That tube came to me from Mikekeswick in England. I sent it to you, now you send it onward. I feel like each destination should be carved into it someplace. It would be fun if it came back to me sometime.
That is pretty cool. This tube has been around already and now taking another trip. The bubble wrap is going too.
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Nice bow sticks will be looking for that tube ;)
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Would love that nice black tube swampman
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Sweet bow stix, now I wish I would have gotten in on this trade.
Very nice cabinet!
Patrick
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Thats drawn to 28"?!
No I didn't put a peg in that board for 28"! It's only drawn about 10" because I have no one to help me with a full draw picture. And it's the best I could do given the circumstances I was in.
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oh ok kid...i was thinking....how long is that bow?! :P
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Believe it or not that was 72" long but I had to trim it down a bit because i tried putting horn on it and my dog decided that it looked good while I was away at work. So trimmed it down and then retillered her out. Still thinking of designs I want to put on the walnut finish before sealing it with tru-oil.
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Hey Swampy, not far to my front door buddy ;D
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Alright boys, she goes out tomorrow.
I handled that bad macheen, somebody will be happy unwrapping that tube. I know I would, nice work Mike.
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The post office said that my package may be delivered on Saturday. Watch your front porch for a long dark package filled with black locust.
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Alright got it lol keep and eye out for black wood
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I dont know about all this!!! I dont mind sloppy seconds...but thirds...and so on?! Especially with some of the shady characters handling the merchandise!! ;)
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Swampman, somebody gonna be happy happy happy. I'm a huge fan of BLACK LOCUS!
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Swampman, somebody gonna be happy happy happy. I'm a huge fan of BLACK LOCUS!
I hope my guy will be happy. i made 3 black locust bows for the trade and the one I sent was the best shooter of the 3.
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I know I would be happy with it, and I'm sure everyone else would be also.
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Nice bows being shown and going out. Talked to Rich this morning and he wanted me to let you know that he received his bow. He said,
Fred, Just to say that I received a very nice bow
today made by Cabinet Bow guy. The effort that he put
into this bow is very evident, beautifully executed
as is it's finish. This bow is very well mannered,
being smooth, even, and hard-hitting all in one
package. Please let him know that I got it....it's in
perfect condition.....and most of all I'm real proud
to have it on my bow rack, so thank you sir !!!
I'll try to get some good pics this weekend so I can
post them up when I get back.rich
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I thought for sure Cabinetbow's tri lam was coming my way. It was exactly my weight and draw.--and it was beautiful to boot. I hope Rich enjoys it. Now I get to keep wondering who is building for me. . .
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Well, my offering has been ready for a while. I'm itching to get it out, just thought I would prolong the anticipation a little. Here's a peak after I made a couple changes.
Tattoo Dave
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Is that cheery bark backing dave? or birch bark? Liking the looks of that for sure!
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lookin good tattoodave. well cabinetbowguy off the table, lookin your way swampman. usps say's saturday delivery for my victim
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Looks like I'm gonna be toward the last if I don't get it moving around here.
Actually have made some progress but it is hard to get pics since I am not using a tree, just did tillering in hand against chest, and in mirror.
She is getting dolled up now though >:D
Tattoo ;D ;D ;D
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Dubes, i would love a snakeskin backed osage bendy ;)
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Glad to see my bow made it safely... :) now to wait till saturday for swampmans bow ;) lol ... ooo but that snake skin osage :),
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Looking good Dubois.
Tattodave, that is a real nice looking bow too.
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That's a birch bark backing with some walnut stain over it.
Dubois, sweet looking skins. And who wouldn't love a bendy handle Osage!
Tattoo dave
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Tattoo Dave and Dubois those bows are looking good.
I SURE HOPE FRED MESSED UP AND GAVE MY ADDRESS OUT TO SEVERAL PEOPLE. THERE IS ALOT OF NICE BOWS THATS HAS BEEN SHIPPED AND ALOT GETTING CLOSE TO BEING SHIPPED. I WILL GET SOME PICS OF THAT AWSOME HACKBERRY BOW MITCH MADE ME THIS WEEKED!
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Ok... Figured I should probably ask fo help before I do anything and screw it up.
What is happening here? This icture is looking straight down on the back of the bow. The more it bends, the worse it gets.
What do I need to do??
Thanks
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160701_121010_zps3plipxwa.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160701_121010_zps3plipxwa.jpg.html)
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Here is an update on the delivery day for my bow. I just checked the tracking and it is now expected to be delivery on July 5th. :'(
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If you can't tell from the pic, the end of the limb is twisting and bending. The twist is going counter clockwise, and the bend is going right (you can't see the twist in this picture, but you can see it bending)
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David, is the thickness even across the limb. It sounds like maybe you either scraped or rasped more off of one side than the other. That will cause twisting like that as one side of the limb is stronger than the other. This is one possibility.
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Last time I checked both were identical, which was just before this picture. Ill check again when i go back out there today.
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Anyone live close to David that could give him some hands on help? It's hard to tell and explain from pictures exactly where the twist starts on the limb. If limb thickness is even on both sides you may be able to heat it out on the caul but if one side is thicker you need to reduce wood from the thick side. Might not take much wood removal to even it out. Don't overdo it and don't pull it over your intended draw length and weight.
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Wow...this thread has a ton of sweet looking bows being exchanged here too.
David...Does your limb have a high crown?Or from a sapling? Does the crown of your limb run right down the center of limb lengthwise? Or in other words does it feather out on the belly down the middle?Can't tell but it is braced there in your pic right?
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Fred, it starts around the last 1/3rd of the limb.
I'm not sure about the crown, I'll also check that when I go back out. I don't know what size of tree the stave came from, it was sent to me by Half Eye.
Not braced, it is pulled to around 9". I haven't shortened the string enough for it to be at full brace.
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Looking again I can see nothing wrong with crown and looks good down the center from lines or cambium showing there.Having both limbs even width and even thickness won't hurt to brace the bow anyway if it is'nt a 90 pounder or something yet.Pitting one limb against the other to see what happens and to check string alignment also.
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David Ewing what state you live in if its Ky I will drive to help you or northern Tennessee. As long as it's 2-3 hrs away in south central Ky
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Oklahoma City.
Im hoping I didn't totally screw this up a few minutes ago, took off a little too much dead center and now it's bending pretty wierd. Hoping I can fix tht, even up the limbs and pray that the twist doesn't hurt anything...
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Yeah... I think I just screwed up.
Can it be saved?
I have red oak board bow half cutout, sort of as a back up.... I really hope I don't have to use it... :(
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160701_154110_zpslxs2ozaw.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160701_154110_zpslxs2ozaw.jpg.html)
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Dont pull it any further then that dave. What drsw weight are you at there? I will mark up a picture showing where you should remove wood. Have you made a tillering gizmo yet? They will help u tremendously when just starting out.
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45-55 lbs.
I made a tillering gizmo a few weeks ago.
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The right limb is stiff about the first 6 " coming out of the fade. The left limb is stiff aboit halfway out from the fades. I would start on the left limb since it needs more attention. If you pull it to that drawlength and set your gizmo about halfway out that limb till it just misses the limb it will show you the stiff spot halfway going in toward the fade. Dont go too crazy on the fades....you can touch them up a little later if they need it. The inner 6 " on the right limb needs some work with some minor stiff spots in the oiter portion of the limb.
I wish i lives in oklahoma id already be there giving you a hand. Youll get it just take your time. Make sure you are fkexing the limbs to that drawlength at least 40 times in between each wood removal to allow for the wood to adjust.
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ajooter I disagree. That right limb is already too thin coming out of the fade. It's verging on collapse.
David, whatever you do don't use a rasp. Stick with a scraper and sandpaper until you get that straightened out. Don't remove any more wood until you get some hands on help.
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I agree the limb is thin but its not bending. If he works on the left limb first maybe it will look a little different.
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I think I'm going to start in the other cutout I have.
Do I need to back a red oak board, or can I get away with out it? I don't have any "primitive" backing material so I'll have to find something. It needs to be between 45 and 55 lbs.
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Red oak will make a bow but its really not a great wood to use if you dont have a lot of experience. Also the grain has to be near perfect on your board.
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I think ajooter is correct in saying to work the left limb first and then see what the right limb is doing. Currently the right has a weak spot just outside the fade that will need attention eventually.
Go slow and post some pics - still think you can get a bow out of it.
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David what poundage and draw length are you going for? That area where the hinge is is really thin, you can still get a bow from it but probably a light weight one
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45-55 lbs.
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At like 26-27"
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David I can't drive to OKC buddy. I go out there around henryetta to visit friends. but I want be there this year or I would drive on and meet up with you
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My question now is, where do I need to remove wood on both limbs?
That's fine GUTSHOT. I think I can get it, just need a little help... :)
Thanks for the help so far guys.
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1st off thanks Mitch for building this trade bow for me I'm honored. I've missed 1 day so far from shooting since it arrived at my door. Any ways I posted on the bow thread before I even thought and should've posted it on this thread so here's the pics. And let me tell you the finish on this bow is AWSOME in person the pics just don't give it justice.
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/0038731C-34BD-48BF-B9EA-49556F385C37_zpskf1t8gtq.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/0038731C-34BD-48BF-B9EA-49556F385C37_zpskf1t8gtq.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/542A736A-95CB-4426-8628-346C14E0816B_zps7j5c06i7.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/542A736A-95CB-4426-8628-346C14E0816B_zps7j5c06i7.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/E11948C5-8BAC-4579-9C51-D91133132CE2_zpstdwfacuf.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/E11948C5-8BAC-4579-9C51-D91133132CE2_zpstdwfacuf.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/40D0021B-D05C-404A-8F26-90D9CF349DF2_zpsmzmajmdw.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/40D0021B-D05C-404A-8F26-90D9CF349DF2_zpsmzmajmdw.jpg.html)
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More pics
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/0475842E-6430-415D-BDC9-0D89D2E28E2C_zpswxy29qsw.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/0475842E-6430-415D-BDC9-0D89D2E28E2C_zpswxy29qsw.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/F6BA56F4-C557-4E89-B290-DA997A8F9AD8_zpsp91n7zed.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/F6BA56F4-C557-4E89-B290-DA997A8F9AD8_zpsp91n7zed.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/DEA4483F-E306-4AB8-BDF4-A64457B23C06_zpsqtl92d0s.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/DEA4483F-E306-4AB8-BDF4-A64457B23C06_zpsqtl92d0s.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/542A736A-95CB-4426-8628-346C14E0816B_zps7j5c06i7.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/542A736A-95CB-4426-8628-346C14E0816B_zps7j5c06i7.jpg.html)
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The right limb is stiff about the first 6 " coming out of the fade. The left limb is stiff aboit halfway out from the fades. I would start on the left limb since it needs more attention. If you pull it to that drawlength and set your gizmo about halfway out that limb till it just misses the limb it will show you the stiff spot halfway going in toward the fade. Dont go too crazy on the fades....you can touch them up a little later if they need it. The inner 6 " on the right limb needs some work with some minor stiff spots in the oiter portion of the limb.
Make sure you are fkexing the limbs to that drawlength at least 40 times in between each wood removal to allow for the wood to adjust.
+1
How much weight are you pulling in the picture?
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Before I screwed the limb up, I'm guessing about 65-70.
Now I'm thinking more like 55-60.
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So are you using a scale to know how much you're pulling at any given moment?
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David you need to get the limb thickness even, if you have a caliper find the thinnest spot on the limb which on the right is in that first foot from the fade. Get the rest of the limb even with that on both limbs and go from there at least that is what i would do😉
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Dubois, no, I'm just sort of guessing. Probably way off but who knows.
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I agree with Bubby on the thickness.
Just asking about the weight cause you don't want to pull more than what you intend for the final weight to be, especially when you have a weak spot/hinge. If you were pulling in the 60's in these pics, then back way off now and get the limb thickness evened out more. Stay away from that thin spot Bubby is talking about (wrap painters tape around it when you scrape to remind you if you have to). If you are getting into the tape-back off!
It's easy to start scraping and think you're in the zone and then realize you have drifted a little onto the weak spot and then you got a light weight bow.
Trust me, I know this from experience
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Your right about limb thickness Bubby....also depends on the crown of the stave. You may want to run that thickness down to about 6 to 8" from the tip, leaving the tips a little stiff for now. I have learned with higher crowned staves it can be difficult to layout the limb taper sometimes.
Ya really need a scale to see where your at drawweight wise. If you have a tillering stick you can use a regular bathroom scale to check it. Otherwise you can hit a tractor supply and get a spring scale pretty reasonable.
There several buildalongs in the how to section. Gordans buildalongs are in my opinion the "standard". I have learned a lot from his postings.
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David. a couple of others have mentioned to me Oklahoma Selfbow Society who have a lot of members in your area. You should google them and see when they get together. I'm sure they would be elated if you showed the bow and would ask for their help.
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Ajooter while the rule is don't pull past intended weight imo the tiller fix is the most important issue at the moment and i wouldn't pull past 12" till it gets straightened out. He does need a scale though😉
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I think I can save it... It's a lot better after just one round of scraping.
The masking tape idea was helpful.
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160702_092744_zpsiwluj1vf.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160702_092744_zpsiwluj1vf.jpg.html)
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Glad it was helpful. Looking better for sure. Mid to tip left limb still look sorta stiff so get that to bend a little more and even up with the right limb. Might be a bit stiff in the right just past tape to tip but I would leave it alone until the left is real close to same as the right. Just what I'm seeing.
I think you're gonna get this David ;)
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That left limb is a little stiffer then the right but it looks a lot better. Did ya get an actual draw weight yet? Set your gizmo till the pencil is just barely showing and see if you get anything. Make corrections by performing some light scrapings on the spots showing flat, then slowly increase it till it shows a continuous line down the limb (meaning you have a nice even bend). Go very slowly and make sure to keep excercising those limbs. It wont take much to get them to balance out.
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Like Dubois said only the left limb for now, forgot to add that..the right one is really close.
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No draw weight yet... I can't find my scale.
The only real problem I am seeing now is the right limb still has major twist, and bend outwards. I'm not sure what to do about it. It is pulling the string off center quite a bit. Both sides are equal. Heck, the "stiff" side may even be thinner now, but the twist/bend isnt going away.
Thanks for the help
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usps say's it's out on delivery ;D
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Dang rain here slowing down the mail truck :(
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Man, this is really getting close... I don't have a scale but I can tell the poundage is getting lower and lower... What do you all think? Left limb is still a little stiff? I honestly can't tell anymore. I've been staring at it for the past hour. Haha
I still don't know what to do about the limb twist/bend.
Can I heat bend it out, or??
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160702_132558_zpswbxe3qzq.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160702_132558_zpswbxe3qzq.jpg.html)
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Is it twisting or bending laterally
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A basic luggage scale, available at many super stores works well and is affordable. I have seen many pictures on this site that show most of us have the same one.
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I know we have one but I can't find it. I'll have to look harder..
Bubby, the two (crappy) drawings below might help explain it.
It is corkscrewing counter-clockwise, and bending to the right.
The first one would be looking down on top of it, or look at the "back" of the bow.
Second one would be looking directly at the tip of the bow. The circle arrows show which way it is corkscrewing, the straight arrow shows which way it is bending.
It is straight as an arrow when un-strung, but as soon as there is any tension it starts to bend and twist.
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160702_140126_zpsysxgsys7.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160702_140126_zpsysxgsys7.jpg.html)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160702_140418_zpsg6cwseee.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160702_140418_zpsg6cwseee.jpg.html)
Hope that makes sense.
Thanks
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The twist is probably not a problem, that kink in the limb you can use a heat gun to straighten it out or steam it. A couple of clamps and heat applied to that area you should get most all of it out
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That drawing isnt all that great. The "kink" isn't actually that bad, I is just a slow bend outwards from about half way down the limb. I posted a picture of it a few pages back.
It is also straigjt when un strung, but as soon as there is any pressure it starts bending.
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The kink in the limb and possible uneven limb thickness could cause limb twist. Is it twisted unstrung or only after bracing? Straighten out the crook and see how it looks.
Also you need more bend just out of both fades. The right limb is trying to hinge right after the tape on the right limb. Outer 1/3 of the right limb could bend a bit more.
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There isn't actally a kink in the limb... That is just my crappy drawing of it bending sideways. It is way more gradual than that.
I posted a picture of it a page or two back.
I have taken a ton of wood off of the "strong" side, but nothing has happened. Hasn't gotten better or worse, just lowered my draw weight even more....
The bow is straight when unstrung.
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usps say's delivery was made yesterday. did anyone receive a pvc tube in the mail?
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YES!!
One awesome bow Mr. Stix.
Thank you. You nailed it brother.
Left for work at 1430 yesterday and passed the mail truck as I went.
Came home through the front door around midnight-wife and kids asleep.
Long tube in GARAGE!!
You really wrapped it up good. Looked like a monkey &6$%4* football getting into it ;D ;D ;D
Wife went to the moms with kids about 10 mnutes ago and I'll be in the yard real soon.
I work again this eve so will have to get pics up tomorrow but I'm sure you all are familiar with this beauty already. Sorry fellas, she's with me now >:D
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Congratulations DuBois. You received a great looking bow.
Nice work Stixnstones.
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congrats dubois!! thats one nice stick!
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Man, glad you got it in one piece. It sure was hard givin that baby up. Hope you enjoy it for a long time.
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I'll have to go back and see what Stix bow looks like.. I'm sure it's pretty sweet.
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Congrats Dubois.
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OK tried to scrape where you fellows suggested....lightly heat treated again so here goes...(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/a90716db-1657-4226-981c-e7bd52f595ef_zpsxfiwyx0c.jpg) (http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/jeffreyakolste/media/a90716db-1657-4226-981c-e7bd52f595ef_zpsxfiwyx0c.jpg.html)
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the unbraced is after a couple dozen shots but as I was telling Fred I think I have a couple hundred shots through this piece. So let me know what you think.- Hammertime(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/2aaf06c0-eb57-4f95-bed9-77d5ac16c2cf_zpsaf8ii3ix.jpg) (http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/jeffreyakolste/media/2aaf06c0-eb57-4f95-bed9-77d5ac16c2cf_zpsaf8ii3ix.jpg.html)
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Mail it! ;D
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OK thanks Pat a few more coats of teak oil and it will be on its way-Hammertime
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Yes that looks mucho better
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Looks like a good shooter hammertime. Good job. Nice looking bow.
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Way to go hammer!!! Ill be looking for it soon!!
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Way to go Hammer your bow turned out really nice!
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Proud of you Hammer. Way to go!!!!
Fred
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Thanks all I really hope my victim likes it, you have taught me patience and a thing or two about tillering along the way. I have enjoyed getting back into bow building again - Hammertime
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Looks good hammer! I'd be proud to have it!
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Like the looks of that Hammer!
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That looks real good hammer. Nice job.
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The only thing I don't like Hammer, is I think we need more pictures. Soon that is all you will have. Take more and let us drool a little
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Yes Hammer more pics I want to see those bull snakes again. I think that's what they were
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Yep hammer, just like everyone else said that is looking good. In the words of PatB, "mail it!"
Patrick
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right on Hammer, nice one.
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Right on Bud!
Way to stick with it ;)
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a couple more the rest is up to victim(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/eacb07ba-7945-4f3e-b4b9-a9d1c4379aa1_zpsdchk3zkv.jpg) (http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/jeffreyakolste/media/eacb07ba-7945-4f3e-b4b9-a9d1c4379aa1_zpsdchk3zkv.jpg.html)
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handle wrap(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/6f8175ba-e075-4e59-a3e1-89ffcea08178_zpsqxa4fvce.jpg) (http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/jeffreyakolste/media/6f8175ba-e075-4e59-a3e1-89ffcea08178_zpsqxa4fvce.jpg.html)
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Need a favor from one of you guys. David Ewing needs some help on his bow, another set of eyes if you will, and although Rich was trying to help me through this he is going to be gone for awhile.
Can any of you PM him and give him a hand. I'll admit I'm lost on this one and could use some help.
Fred
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Hammer, you should be proud of that one......sign it and ship it......well done.
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Is the handle wrapped with snakeskin too!!!! I think i noticed it was a lefty tho unfortunately!! :(
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(http://i.imgur.com/z4mvflp.jpg?1)
Gettin a couple more coats of laquer while its nice out. I may still try to grab some muskrat fur from my buddy and get some silencers on her.
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Man Ajooter , good lookin stik rite there. What kind of wood?
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Pale Rider..."The Preacher" - "Nothing like a good piece of hickory."
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Looks real good ajooter 8)
Here's the proile pics. Waiting on something in the mail to finish it off but will start putting tru oil over her tonight I think.
Not taking anything else off this one.
What you guys think?
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Thats one hell of a bow sir...cant wait to see her all dolled up!
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well Dube's you got my addy. Sooooo..... i'll be waitin. ;)
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Sweet lookin bows there ajooter and Dubois....-Hammertime
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Two nice looking bows there gents. I would be happy with either one!
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I can't understand why I would have a crysal on this sinew backed bow but it sure looks like one. I was final sanding out tool marks and this one wouldn't go away and then I saw it was not flat like a file or scraper, but more of an arc :'( :'( Straight over from my ugly big toe and center of other pic. Sorry about the poor quality.
Not in a higher stress area than any other so not sure what to think yet. Maybe in denial.
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Two things Doobs. I cant see any compression fractures. And, is that the RD you posted just a bit ago? If so, the tiller looks good.
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Hard to say from the pic but when i have gotten cryshals there was never just one
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Looks like a dent from a c-clamp to me Doobs. Josh
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Is that in a reflexed area? Could it be a tear from heat bending?
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Looks like a dent from a c-clamp to me Doobs. Josh
+1, although not cosmetically pretty they usually don't cause and problems.
Can you feel it with your fingernail?
Patrick
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Pearlie, yes it's that bow and I'm glad you like the tiller. I always have doubts on my tillering abilities.
Nope, can't feel it with finger. Gotta tell on myself. I put a coat of tru oil over it last night and then I started staring at it and the denial went away and I was like "Oh *&%0" I can't leave that can I?"
Clint, I think you may have nailed it bud. Probably a very small tear but sure could be related to a clamp also.
You all think it's ok?
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Ship it.
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Our a bunch of arrows through it and see if the tiller changes
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USPS says my package was delivered today. :)
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Dubois, your tiller looks very good with an even bend. I don't see anything that would cause a compression fracture. Did you have a serious hinge early in the tillering process? If not I'd say its a C-clamp dent or a reflex tear.
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No serious hinges. Took it easy and slow ;)
Ok then. Gonna continue finishing her off and shoot a little more too before shipping.
Thanks all.
PS:This drama caused me to start 2 more bows >:D
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Next time put your bow up against a wall on on a bench to take a close up picture like that. Your camera wants to focus on the background instead of the bow. Happens to me all the time. It's very aggravating.
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Will do Clint. Yep it's hard to get a good close up.
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I got the Swampman!!!! I gotta say it's a beautiful bow. being a snake guy, I love the skins. I didn't catch the snake type during the build, are they bull or gopher snake? And the bead is an awesome touch. I havmt shot it much yet, but I like how it shoots. The draw weight is PERFECT. It feels very smooth with a hard enough hit to do something. And it seems to be a very durable design. I'll get some pictures up tonight after work.
Kyle
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You're havin a great week Kyle ;D
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Glad the bow made it in good shape Kyle. The snake skins are what I had left over from a 7 ft gopher snake that I had picked up off of the highway. The raw hide is from a deer I shot in the swamps of the Mississippi River. I am glad you like it. The bow should be well shot in. I shot it for a good 3 months before I sent it. I loved shooting that bow and I really didn't want to part with it. However that became a lot easier when I got my yew bow from Jeff.
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Having trouble finding time for the wife to take pics of the bow from Stixnstones.
Sorry folks.
I will get them!!
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You lucky sumgun! That bow was sweet as candy. Mike tore it up.
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You lucky sumgun! That bow was sweet as candy. Mike tore it up.
Been watching Smoky and the Bandit eh?
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Congrats Kyle - a very nice bow! Was hoping it was going to be on my porch. >:D
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I was hoping the same thing. I wish I knew which bow was coming my way. . .
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Mine is finished! I still need to twist up a string for it, and then write the specs on it. Here are some pics. It is dogwood, with a cherry lam on the handle and redbud underlays on the tips.
Michael
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And a couple more...
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Beautiful looking bow Loope. That would look great hanging on my wall!
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Lools great loope....the fade on the tip and the underlays looks killer. Cant wait to get it in my hands ;)..i hope anyway!
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You may send that my way any time. When will it arrive?
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Superb work Loope. Wow there hasn't been a bow made so far by all of you that I wouldn't cherish having in my hands. All of you have set the bar high for the remainder of us. Your artistic abilities and hard work amaze me.
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Loope, that bow looks beautiful. Great job.
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Oooo loop looks beautiful
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Got to see you bow in person swampman its beautiful as ever !
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Good job loope I really like those tip underlays
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Sorry to have been away from the forum for a couple months, but we've had a water crisis here with the drought locally, and I've been spending all my time building a 3000 gallon ferro-cement cistern. We went without water for 2-1/2 months in a few years ago and it was difficult then -- this spring drought looks worse because it started earlier.
Anyway, I had finished my trade bow, and did manage to package it up yesterday and get it mailed out. I haven't built a bow in a few months or had time for archery at all, but hope to get back in maybe a month's time when the cistern is done. We might get rain in the next few days, which I sure hope we do -- even the cistern needs water to build with concrete.
Best wishes to you all..... Steve.
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WOOHOO!!
That's a killer bow Loope.
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Dang Plan B that stinks not to have water. What state you live in to be getting that kinda drought. Let's see some pics of that bow you sent out
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Do what ya gotta do B....im just down in albany if ya need a hand or any kind of equipment.
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Sorry to hear about your water shortage, Plan B. If there were any way we could send you all the extra water we got earlier, I certainly would.
And that bow looks amazing, Loope!
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Dang Loope, that stik is killer.
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Gutshot, southern Vermont, not normally a drought area, but we seem to be in a little pocket that gets hit worse than surrounding areas. Plus we get our water from a spring, not a well.
I'm sorry i didn't take photos of the bow yesterday while I was packing it up. I just spaced it out, and also forgot to make up a new string. My mind is slipping working out in the heat on that cistern! Over a hundred degrees in town yesterday! I hope my recipient will forgive me the string, maybe i can make one up in the meantime. Maybe he will take some photos -- I don't have any of the finished bow.
Ajooter, buddy, thanks! I have an old Ford 850 tractor with a backhoe that I did the excavation with, and it cracked a hed while I was working it a few weeks ago -- I found somebody with an old rusty one, superglued it to my small mill's table and milled it flat with a homemade fly-cutter. Ground the valves in and got it back together in 4 days, and had it working on the water project again.
Here's a photo of the cistern armature as it is today. Tons of wire ties in that. That was driving me nuts -- had my ten year old daughter pushing the wire ties back out to me from the inside. Foam pipe insulation around the temporary entry to keep her from getting scratched up.
Ty, thanks supposedly we will be getting some rain the next few days. Hope it's enough, and not the last bit for another month, like it has been. We've got 6" deficit over the last 90 days.
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Planb i was a long time concrete contractor and built gunite swimming pools for a living for about 8 years, that isn't enough structural steel that rebar should be a minimum 12" on center horizontal and vertical with alternates at 6" oc. The laps should be 32 × the diameter of the bars. But it is your job so it is up to you
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Very nice looking bow Loope. Don't see a dogwood bow posted on the forum to often, cool to see one from a seldom used wood.
That bow should make someone happy.
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Im also a contractor and i agree with bubbly. If you wasn't so far i would come help you out with er planb
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Bubby, Cabinet, thanks for the thoughts. The design was actually from Art Ludwig's Book "Water Storage" from Oasis Design consultants. Bottom rebar is 1' on centers as you suggest, but increases as you go up with reduced head pressure. Tight radiuus of this tank in 3 dimensions is much greater than any swimming pool, increasing shell stiffness -- like an egg shell or bowl vs. a square flat sided structure.
I also used #4 rebar where the original had #3 since that was impossible to find locally, so it's overbuilt. What you can't see probably is that the inside is completely sheathed in expanded metal lath. That alone just about makes the rebar redundant. What you're seeing outside is chicken wire, not really structural, but to give something to shape the outside plaster to. This isn't much bigger than some poured septic tanks. The tank will only be filled summers since it's for drought insurance. Like I say, it's not my design, but straight out of the book, and referred to as "heavy" construction for a tank of this small capacity. Hope it works, and definitely true, I'm not a contractor and experienced in this stuff, so I don't know for sure. Thanks for the offer of help. Wish I could take you up on it!
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With all due respect to a book, it should also have at a minimum1 ft on center horizontally i understand the concept of the sphere but the expanded metal lath offers little structural strength. Are you guniting it or pouring it? It does make some difference. I have built and shot spheres myself using#6 grade 60 bar and there was more steel than what you have but heck you might get lucky i hope ya do and this advice is redundant
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Bubby thanks, mixing and plastering it by hand. I don't want to get too far off topic in this thread so I won't say any more after this last post about my tank -- probably gone too far already-- sorry! I'm building the same tank as the center one in this picture of the book cover with the little kid in front, built with the same armature and plastering in the same way. I hope to be as lucky, (if that's the right word) as the owner/builder of that one. Like I said I'm not an expert, but I am building an existing proven tank design, here, and hope to get the same result.
(http://oasisdesign.net/images/img_book/WScover_w6.jpg)
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This was the bow I ended up sending out -- the Plan C bow as it was before I added the final details. Sorry I don't have pics of it finished.
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Thats purdy :)
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Good luck with your cistern, Plan B! I know it's tough when water is on short supply, so hopefully your cistern turns out.
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PlanB, I remember that bow from your earlier posts. Would like to have that one myself.
Good luck on the cistern and I understand your situation. I don't yet have running water after seven years of living out on my place. Still hauling water. I'm trying to figure out how to pipe water from multiple flowing springs on my property but they are all on the other side of the creek, hundreds of feet away, and downhill from my building site.
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Plan B, the plan C looks great! I would love to see it show up at my door.
Fred, you may want to check out a ram pump for your water supply. They don't require electricity, just operate on hydraulic pressure and don't need a lot of head pressure.
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I remember that bow now planB. I think either a or b looked a lot like it. I'm sure somebody is gonna be thrilled with it.
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That is a fine looking bow Plan B. Somebody is gonna be real happy with it I'm sure.
Have you tried a rain dance?
Sorry, just foolin'
Really, hope you get some soon and good luck on the cistern.
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Thanks guys! Great bunch here. Wish I was building a bow. Maybe in the Fall.
Priority Mail tracking says the bow will arrive tomorrow. Wish I'd remembered a string >:(.
Fred in case this info helps or gives you any ideas......my spring is located 300 feet from the house, and there's only a 3 foot drop. I ran a 1 inch poly line from it to a 200 gallon cistern under the house. The line was NOT buried, just ran over the ground. I rake some leaves over it in November, that's all. It runs continuously and never freezes, even in Vermont and 20 below zero. Actually, it's gradually burying itself.
It also runs over a creek about 6 feet wide. I made a little bridge for it out of styrofoam -- two pieces taped together like a sandwich, about 8" by 12", total cross section.
I dug NO trenches for this system, and it's been running 15 years. Two winters ago we didn't see above zero for a month. It never freezes. In fact it usually melts its a path in the snow. The little house cistern has an overflow to daylight and, as I said, runs continuously.
The little cistern has a small external $30 Harbor Freight shallow well pump nearby to pressurize the domestic system. I have an expansion tank and water heater nearby and we get 50 pounds of pressure. The pump usually lasts about 5 years, and I always have a spare. It's a very simple system. The only thing that stops it is a severe drought in summer. The new 3000 gallon cistern I'm building is located below the 200 gallon house cistern, so will receive the overflow, now wasted, by gravity feed. It will then overflow, too with a small waterfall to a wading basin. In a drought, we'll just pump back up -- approx. 60 days worth at 50 gal/day.
Hope that helps....
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Finally had to get my little girl to get some pics for me today.
Sorry not a lot but I know you guys were already peepin at this beauty before it was sent.
One hard hittin bow and I'm thoroughly impressed.
Thanks again Mr. Stix
Doobs
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One more >:D
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Congratulations DuBois. We will have to get together sometime and compare the great bows we received in this great trade.
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Wow, that is nice!
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That finish on your bow looks amazing Plan B....Dubois that bow looks like its mighty fast!- Hammertime
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Definitely Swamy. All them fellas down south got Mojam. We need something up here someday.
It is a screamer Hammer. No doubt at all.
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I would be glad to work on my string making skills plan b
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lookin good Dubois. it definetly slams an arra home.
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Dang stix, you really nailed that one buddy!
DuBois, your one luck guy!
Patrick
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That bow looks mighty fine in your hands, DuBois!
Also, if a Mojam-type gathering ever started in Minnesota, I would definitely attend. It would be great if there was an event like that for us who live in the upper Midwest. Even if it was a few people at first, I think I've seen enough people who post from Minnesota, the Dakotas, and Wisconsin that maybe something could be started.
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Yep, I do feel real fortunate to have such a well crafted bow.
I think in the near future I'll post about willingness to start some kinda gathering up here. I had considered asking my friend at the bison ranch if he would host one and if he has enough open space. Hmmmmm???
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Come on down DuBois! I just checked it's only 7 hours and 20 min from your house to mojam.
We get guy's as far as California and Florida.
Patrick
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Ya know, I'm gonna look up the info right now on Mojam and see if it's at all doable.
There is a package being delivered today to your house Patrick so that may be all that gets there from my address.
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"2:27 pm. ...delivered front door/porch..." :)
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On my way home B...fingers crossed!!
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Just checked my porch - empty. :'(
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sorry ajooter :(
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mitch, wish I could have sent out 20 bows. Halfeye has it right!
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i get off at 6. will be home by 6:30, fingers crossed.
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Well I got out of bed around 2:45 this afternoon (working nights) and the wife asked if I was expecting a package from Vermont. I told her I wasnt expecting but was hoping. Sure enough I had a long package containing a sweet PlanB bow. I opened it as fast as I could, grabbed a handfull of mix matched arrows and headed outside. This bow shoots great. Seems to like any spine arrow I send through it but I did have two from an old set that it absolutely loves. Perfect flight every shot from those two and I still have the rest of that set lying around somewhere. I couldn't be more pleased.
Will try to get some pics posted tomorrow.
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Congrats Turtle can't wait to see the pics.
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Woohoo!!! ;D ;D ;D
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Right on Turtle and Plan B! Will be lookin for the pics.
PS: here's my water set up. It pretty well takes care of whatever here between rains and the kids can fill their water blasters and buckets in the stock tank ;D
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Dang. Nothing on my porch!
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congrats Turtle, thats a fine lookin bow planb sent out.
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Congrats turtle!
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Yeah yeah congrats!!! That was my bow!!! I have been adding an inch a month to my drawlength so I could actually shoot that bow!! ;D
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Congrats Turtle. That is another great looking bow received in this great bow trade.
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Jooter...man you poor guy ;D
I'm sure with this crowd something sweet will come your way.
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I was thinkin the same thing Dubois! Ajooter I gotta thank you for what you sent me here, as well. We get our rain second hand from Albany when you guys are done with it! Nice to see the ground wet for a change! :laugh:
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No problem B...ground was wet again this morning...i hope ya got a little more!!
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Here are the pics of the sweet bow I recived from PlanB. Afraid my poor picture taking skills don't do it justice.
Thank you again Steve.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/PlanB%20bow/IMG_20160710_160837653_2.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/PlanB%20bow/IMG_20160710_161248673_HDR.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/PlanB%20bow/IMG_20160710_161000976_1.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/PlanB%20bow/IMG_20160710_161008703.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/PlanB%20bow/IMG_20160710_160934548.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/PlanB%20bow/IMG_20160710_161510706.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/PlanB%20bow/IMG_20160710_161517738.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/PlanB%20bow/IMG_20160710_162716942.jpg)
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Nice bow! I like the turtle
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Very nice looking bow....is that turtle inlayed?
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You're more than welcome Turtle!
Ajooter it's beaten copper, but not inlaid -- on the surface. I wouldn't cut into the back.
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Nice looking bow for sure!
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I didnt notice it was the back at first glance. Very cool idea!
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Man!! that is beautiful!! Congrats to you both. Is that a rain turtle?
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Must be, DuBois, we've had an inch of rain in the last 24 hrs, and the spring is flowing well again! :)
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Hi Guys,
apologies for being away for so long, life got complicated for a while........
Just a swift update on the two bows I am working on for the trade, the one on the right is coming together very quickly now, the one on the left is about half way roughed out.. Any comments on the knotty problem in the second picture? The black lines are pencil marks, so please ignore them. Thought I'd cut the knots out and plug them, but would epoxy and sawdust be a better fix?
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/image3.jpeg)
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/image4.jpeg)
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The ones well inside the limb shouldnt be a problem...the one on the edge on the other hand could be a problem as u continue tillering.
Filling with epoxy or sawdust and glue is a viable option.
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Lookin at that picture a little closer it seems your getting some separation in growth rings. What kind of wood is the one you had ?s about the knots?
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It's holly (ilex), not sure which type - wild, not cultivated, tall with straight trunk not densely branched with nodules on the bark.
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checking in real quick, I'm finishing up my trade bow now, got it tillered out to target drawlength and weight, and now I'm decorating. I will try to get some teaser pictures up this evening of my ## inch Sinew backed Osage bow with recorved tips that draws @@# at ^^ inches for Mr. !@#$%^$#$%. >:D O:)
I had a specific inspiration for the bows decorations, you guys will know it when you see it. When I post pics, I'd like to get some feedback for names, and if my intended victim weighs in, then that will be what the bow is named.
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Teaser pics. If you haven't got a bow already, throw out some names for it. If it's your bow, then your name will stick.
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Sweet! I love it! I can't wait to shoot it ;) ok my first thought on a name was "rich girl", cause she's got diamonds on the soles of her shoes. That's a great song.
Tattoo Dave
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Does it have any string nocks. I can't see them.
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Does it have any string nocks. I can't see them.
Not yet, got to glue one overlay on, then redo the nocks. I shot it already with temporary nocks, but wanted to thin the tips and put antler overlays on there. Ran out of time between chores, we are super busy with kids and house stuff this time of year.
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i'm no help with a name but thats a nice looking bow!
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Jimmy his name is Jimmy :)
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"Girl's best friend"? - Cause that's what diamonds are.
"King Me"? referring to the vague resemblance to a checkerboard.
"Maurice"? because it looks like a jester's bow and "the joker" was also called Maurice(at least by the Steve Miller band anyway)
That's all I got.
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Lucy... as in " lucy in the sky with diamonds".
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(http://www.nature.com/polopoly_fs/7.17868.1402485206!/slideshowimage/WEB_venom-coral-snake.jpg_gen/derivatives/fullsize/WEB_venom-coral-snake.jpg)
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Anli Nakni: faithful warrior.
That's a sweet bow sidman!
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I got my bow already so I got no say really but I think you already named her..."Teaser"
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Today I put a bunch of arrows through the bow I plan to ship. It was shooting great at the right weight and I felt real good about it and was wiping it down to get ready to sign it and saw this! It is just below the grip on lower limb. I must have charred too deep when bending at some point but honestly I don't remember what I did in that area anymore.
I am thinking I want to lightly sand to just touch wood and then put a tight sinew wrap of about 1/4" above and below it, so about 3/4" total.
How would you feel about this if shipping or if receiving this bow?
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Sweet! I love it! I can't wait to shoot it ;) ok my first thought on a name was "rich girl", cause she's got diamonds on the soles of her shoes. That's a great song.
Tattoo Dave
Hey Dave, How about "rolly polly little bat faced girl?" ;D
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Jester
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DuBois, sinew on that wouldn't bother me any, I like sinew.
Keeps them names coming folks. Can't say if one has stuck yet, but I'm digging yalls thought processes.
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Like the painting on that bow Sidmand - but I am not good at coming up with names.
DuBois - I would do as you and others have already suggested. I would then shoot it a bunch and see how it fairs. Cracks on the edge can be trouble - but that one on the belly side probably will be fine.
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Meat missle
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Dubois....A little sinew and some more shooting just to be safe should do it buddy!!
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The bow looks great Sidmand, I really like that color pattern... but my creativity isn't coming up with name suggestions.
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Meat missle
You got a way with words friend ;D
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Sorry I haven't been very active lately.
Here's a few teaser pics. Just need to decide on a handle wrap and sign it. Hope to get it shipped soon.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160714_140106837.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160714_140312314.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160714_140213627.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160714_140223716.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160714_140338891.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160714_140134515.jpg)(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/stevenbennett2/2016%20pa%20bow%20trade/IMG_20160714_140118084.jpg)
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Nice stick turtle....that dog will Hunt for sure!!
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That looks real nice turtle.
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Yeah! I think he's going to like that turtle. ;)
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That's beautiful, Steve.
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Very nice work on that baby, Steve.
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Dang Turtle thats a peach. What kinda wood ?
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Very nice looking bow Turtle. Hope it is heading for Nebraska. ;D
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I'm digging that bow Turtle. Yeah, what is that wood?
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Not a thing wrong with that bow. Looking forward to seeing dolled up. Is that a Matt M splice?
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Thanks guys. Its vine maple from a set of billets I gt from Bryce Ott a couple years ago.
Not a thing wrong with that bow. Looking forward to seeing dolled up. Is that a Matt M splice?
Dunno........ I always heard it called a W splice. This is the first time I ever tried it.
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Well, this little hickory stick is almost ready to ride......should ship Monday.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/PA%20Trade%20Bow%202016_zpssgsreoax.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/PA%20Trade%20Bow%202016_zpssgsreoax.jpg.html)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/PA%20Trade%20Bow%202016_Guess%20Who_zpsxhtwrtvk.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/PA%20Trade%20Bow%202016_Guess%20Who_zpsxhtwrtvk.jpg.html)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/PA%20Trade%20Bow%202016-3_zpsfejdpkzg.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/PA%20Trade%20Bow%202016-3_zpsfejdpkzg.jpg.html)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/PA%20Trade%20Bow%202016-2_zpsuccbfnea.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/PA%20Trade%20Bow%202016-2_zpsuccbfnea.jpg.html)
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That's sweet drewster
That's really nice turtle. I'm buggin' the tips!
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Fred has been helping me a ton through PM's. Thanks Fred! :)
What do you all think of this? Not at full draw yet, but pretty close. If I'm guessing right, it's about 50#'s, so I'm right where I need to be.
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160716_131601_zpssioufvgi.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160716_131601_zpssioufvgi.jpg.html)
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David, it appears you are stiff coming out of the fades. I would work that area next. The top limb looks really good for the last 2/3. The bottom limb is bending more, so DON'T touch it any more for now except for the area right out of the lower fade. Work very, very carefully at this point.
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Have u actually scaled the bow yet David....i agree with Drewsters advice.
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Just got back from a 50 hike in the backwoods with no internet. Lots to catch up on here. Oh, and I had a tube waiting for me when I got home. I'll open it as soon as I have recovered a bit - stay tuned.
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I will work on those areas a bit and post another picture.
Thanks.
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Have u actually scaled the bow yet David....i agree with Drewsters advice.
David go to Walmart 8 bucks will get you a luggage scale. You really need one guessing the weight is no good.
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[/quote] David go to Walmart 8 bucks will get you a luggage scale. You really need one guessing the weight is no good.
[/quote]
Indeed!
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Bought a scale... Turns out I suck at guessing weight. Its low enough I can't save it. Nothing I could really do about it though, I had to get the tiller some-what right. I'll finish it and give it to a kid or something.
Starting another one now... I actually have some idea of what I'm doing now. Should turn out a lot better.
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Im sorry to hear that David....but it is all part of the learning experience. Your tiller on this bow has gotten much better and the next one will work oit for you im sure.
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David you learned a lot on this one. The next one will be better, I am sure. Keep trying and you will have one you can really be proud of.
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;D I'm extending the deadline for any of you that need a little extra time.
There are a handful of members who have not participated as required by the rules set down at the beginning of the bow trade. These people will not receive a trade bow until their work has been shown and inspected by the rest of us. So if you don't have a bow yet there might just be a damn good reason.
I will not be mentioning any names because you know who you are.
One bow that has been received by a trade member is being returned due to lack of participation by the builder and an unsatisfactory attempt. If he would have participated as required I may have been willing to cut him some slack but that is not the case and the bow is not acceptable.
This member builder will be given the choice of building another bow or withdrawing from our trade.
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Well said Fred...I think thats fair on all counts!
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I broke my trade bow. Pulled it to fare and POW!!! Luckily I have plan c ready. I'll post it shortly.
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Damned I hate to see that happen to such good looking wood. :'( On to plan C Timothy!!!
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This is plan c. Going out soon. Osage flat bow 65" n2n and 58#@28". What do y'all think?
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8) Nice looking bow. Please don't break that one!!!! >:D
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Lol! Definitely will try not too. I received some bamboo backings from eco archery. I may start a new one with some erc or Osage. Plan c is nice! Shoots good too
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Good looking plan c Tim.
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Looks good Tim...sorry bout the break!!! Ill take plan c all day tho! Gonna take some pics of mine tomorrow and then get her ready to ship!
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That is a sweet looking bow, Tim!!!
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Tim sorry about the breakage but that plan C is pretty sweet.
David Ewing what poundage did you end up with? If it's close Flipping the tips might gain you the poundage you need.
Ajooter can't wait to see those pics
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Thanks guys. I really like this one.
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Tim, Plan C is definitely looking good!
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Hey David, you can also gain some weight by heat treating the belly of the bow. Shortening the limbs can also gain weight, depending on your build specs. So your bow may be salvageable after all. I am a relative beginner myself and have used all three methods to fix bow mistakes... flip the tips, shorten the limbs, heat treat the belly.
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Bought a scale... Turns out I suck at guessing weight. Its low enough I can't save it. Nothing I could really do about it though, I had to get the tiller some-what right. I'll finish it and give it to a kid or something.
Starting another one now... I actually have some idea of what I'm doing now. Should turn out a lot better.
David - that is not uncommon for the first few bows you build - lots of guys end up under weight when they first start out. My first 3 or 4 were all under! I learned from people on the site to always pull to (or close to) your intended weight during the tillering process (as long as things look good). If you do that you know you will make the weight. The scale will help you do that.
Tim - bummer on the break. Plan C looks good.
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Dang it! that's too bad Tim but I agree. Plan C is sweet.
Hey David, How far under weight are you on it?
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Here's an updated list on who I need to see progress reports and full draw pictures from before they will receive a bow:
jandersson, Kid Bow, Ryan C, Ranasp, Stuckinthemud,
Here's the list of who may ship anytime:
ajooter, Dakota Kid, tatoo dave, Otter
Let me know if you have any questions.
List of bows already received by recipient:
CabinetBowGuy, Dakota Kid, Drewster, DuBois, Gutshot, halfeye, Loope, Mo_coon-catcher, Mwosborn, PlanB, Sidmand, StixnStones, Swampman, Turtle
We are working hand in hand with a few individuals and have extended the deadline in order to give them some more time to complete their project.
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Your doing a fine Job Fred. Thanks for all the work you have done. I know there has to be a lot to keep up with.
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Drewster, i love that hickory stik. Simple and sweet. David, looks purty good. I agree with others a good heat treatin and some flipped tips would bring that weight up some. Timothy , plan c looks real cool, that F/D is beautiful.
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It was pulling 20 lbs just a few inches under full draw.
I know, that's bad. Lol
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Yes there's no getting your weight up that much. Might should get those arms calibrated. You are about 30lbs off. LOL. Do you have any of that iron wood half eye sent you left. If so that's your best bet on getting another bow built in time. No chasing that back ring on that stuff.
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Fred, I too have a bow that's ready to ship.
David, it's tough guessing weight. I used too have a tillering stick with a base on it that I could set on a normal scale to measure that way. Not the best, but it worked better than guessing. Plan C looks good.
Tattoo Dave
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Dave, I'll correct my list. I don't remember seeing a full draw pic of your bow. >:D
David, disregard my comments on the PM I sent you. I thought you were using black locust and not HHB.
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Gutshot, yes, I have another stave from Half Eye.
60" long, and it is already marked for me to cutout. I was going to cut it a little wide, then smooth the saw marks out leaving it right at 1.5" wide the entire length.
My question now is.... What "style" of bow should I be making? I need 27-28" draw at 45-55 lbs. I was thinking about a D bow, but I'm not sure I have the skills for that yet. I just want something simple and hard to screw up.... again! Haha.
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At that drawlength and 60" you would need to make a bendy handle bow. Leaving it an inch and a half wide at your handle area and tapering it straight to the tips (pyramid style)and then roughing the belly thickness to an even half inch should give you a good starting point with room left for wood removal.
Im sure other will chime in. Keep after it and you will be successful.
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At that drawlength and 60" you would need to make a bendy handle bow. Leaving it an inch and a half wide at your handle area and tapering it straight to the tips (pyramid style)and then roughing the belly thickness to an even half inch should give you a good starting point with room left for wood removal.
Im sure other will chime in. Keep after it and you will be successful.
Sounds like a good plan to me. You'll get it. I'm sure you have a lot more experience just from this trade and it will all come into play. Looking forward to seeing it ;)
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Just catching up on the last few pages here, still working on the water situation. I just want to applaud those who have worked hard and posted here, whether their bows have broken or come under weight, etc. And just say that if somebody has put in the time and effort and documented it that I see from some of you guys, I would be happy to receive even a broken or kid's weight bow if the time runs out for you. I mean of course we all want you to send out the super bow you're aiming for, but it's the effort I appreciate, when somebody has tried to do something for me as a gift, that I don't even know. I don't mean give up if things haven't worked out, keep going! I just mean enjoy your work and the fact that you are doing it, and be proud that you are doing something difficult and new to you.
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David -
Did Half Eye lay it out for you so it was ready to cut? If so, that is what I would do.
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alright guys here is where i am.
after my first bow sadly came in under weight after i got it shot in, i started on this osage ELB.
in the pic i have it drawn to 25in and i'm just over my target weight there so i should have plenty of wood to refine the tiller on my way back to 28in.
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/12E942DB-3808-459E-B7A9-64766921708C.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/12E942DB-3808-459E-B7A9-64766921708C.jpg.html)
the horn knocks are rough shaped and ready to glue on.
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/B77F83EB-5C74-4708-A7D6-096862044E04.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/B77F83EB-5C74-4708-A7D6-096862044E04.jpg.html)
now here is my sticking point.
i don't know if i should straighten the side to side bends or just leave them alone. so far they haven't been a problem but it makes the one tip look kind of funny.
what would you do here ???
i could also pike it down to 60in to get rid of that bend and flip the tips a little make a completly different style of bow :o
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/2655797B-9684-472B-B59D-C0FA92E2F47A.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/2655797B-9684-472B-B59D-C0FA92E2F47A.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/4F928840-7485-4393-A6D0-CC81B5C16C26.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/4F928840-7485-4393-A6D0-CC81B5C16C26.jpg.html)
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Dyland, I wouldn't be too concerned about the side bending if your string alignment is good. It looks like your alignment might be a little off, but not much. Some dry heat should fix your alignment pretty easily.
You tiller is coming along too. I would work on the outer third of the left limb next. That left limb is not bending quite as nicely as the right limb.
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Dylan, I'm liking the looks of that bow. Wish it were coming my direction.
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I think Drewster has it right Dylan.
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Dont worry about the twist Dylan....i think your alignment looms fine.
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Fellas, I'm sorry, I thought I had already posted full draw. I took pics of it on the tree some time back, I had it out to weight and tiller, but I guess I forgot to post them. Got the missus to help me with pics just now, here she is. I still have some beautifying to do, and a little more shooting just to make sure everything is good, but it will go out this week, certainly by Friday. 60" tip to tip, it meets my targets specs.
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(http://i.imgur.com/3Xu7fLs.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/20gU6yB.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/spY6CJ1.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/pJLlQAo.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/Y7hO5m6.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/fCxchV9.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/QDexIaP.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/PStCkqa.jpg?1)
Well heres some final pictures of the bow. Still not totally happy with the tiller but ive put a couple 100 arrows through her and I like the way she shoots. I used no heat whatsoever on this piece of wood. It took a little set from its original profile but nothing major. Top limb is 1.5" longer btw.
Comments please! If anybody insists on me adjusting the tiller ill see what I can do. Thanks in advance for any criticisms fellas. Its been real!
PS - Rich mentioned that bottom fade eons ago...
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Dylon that's life looking great. I wouldn't take much of the character out if you don't have to.
Sidman that's is a nice looking stick. Love the colors
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Ajooter it does look in the FD pic that the lower fade is stiff. But when I look at the brace pic and the u brace pic that hump makes it a tough one to tiller so if it was mine and it shot good then leave it alone. Like that finish
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I like that bow ajooter....those lambs on the handle are sweet-Hammertime
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I've updated the list on page 230 and you guys should correct me if your name is in the wrong category.
Sorry I missed you on the first go around Sid, it's hard keeping track of 31 and 230 pages.
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Ajooter, that bow is looking pretty sweet. I agree with gut's post. If it is shooting good, leave it.
Sidman, that bow looks real nice.
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No worries Fred, I should have made it more clear. I've done a couple of these types of things on other forums and I know they are tough to manage when they get big/have lots of posts. Your doing great, and that's my bad.
I've updated the list on page 230 and you guys should correct me if your name is in the wrong category.
Sorry I missed you on the first go around Sid, it's hard keeping track of 31 and 230 pages.
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Yeah Fred, you've done a great job with this trade. Thanks
I shipped it out today by the way.
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I was planning to pack my bow and it out in the next day or two. I was putting a few arrows through it and I got a little ticking. The knot in the upper fade started to pop loose. I'm glad the knot decided to do that on me before I sent it. I'm going to squirt some warmed up super glue into the knot and wrap with some silk thread. I'll see if that'll do the trick to fix it. If not then I've got a stave of dense tight ringed osage I picked up from MoJam. I should be able to get it ahooting in the next day or two. So I might be pushing a bit in the deadline to get it out. But if it cooperates I should be able to ship it by the beginning of next week. If I have to build a new bow. I'll keep updated.
Kyle
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(http://i.imgur.com/3Xu7fLs.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/20gU6yB.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/spY6CJ1.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/pJLlQAo.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/Y7hO5m6.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/fCxchV9.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/QDexIaP.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/PStCkqa.jpg?1)
Well heres some final pictures of the bow. Still not totally happy with the tiller but ive put a couple 100 arrows through her and I like the way she shoots. I used no heat whatsoever on this piece of wood. It took a little set from its original profile but nothing major. Top limb is 1.5" longer btw.
Comments please! If anybody insists on me adjusting the tiller ill see what I can do. Thanks in advance for any criticisms fellas. Its been real!
PS - Rich mentioned that bottom fade eons ago...
If want some advice? I'd suggest getting a lot more movement on the bottom limb from the kink out. Right now that kink is doing the lions share. The top appears a bit flat mid limb.
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(http://i.imgur.com/uZSKWCW.png?1)
These were the areas i was thinking as well....i may try and true her up a little. Free time is limited right now.
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That kink is actually further up the limb then was it looks. If i get her bending evenly i can put a little heat to it to boost the draw weight back up if need be.
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I tend to agree with PD here. That top limb needs scraped where you have it marked on the second pic. That bottom limb doesn't need any removed where it's marked and that may only add to the problem. Looks to me like you should scrape the bottom limb from a few inches below the kink out toward about 6" from the tips.
How thick are the limbs now and are there any variances on either side of that kink? If you are using a tillering gizmo it won't be of much use at this point with the character in that bottom.
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(http://i.imgur.com/14366df.jpg?1)
Little scraping in above mentioned areas....noticed that twist in the lower limb.
(http://i.imgur.com/51yGlGq.jpg?1)
Fixed the twist tweaked her a little more. I think it looks better...i really still think it looks stiff out of that lower fade myself...nobody see that?!
Next question....if i want to heat treat to add a little snap....do i have to remove all the laquer? Its humid as hell right now so I will let the bow sit inside for a few days upstairs near a window to make sure it hasnt sucked up too much moisture.
And yes...this bow is for one of you backwards southpaws....im tired of flipping pictures!! ;D
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(http://i.imgur.com/ao3K8Em.jpg?1)
maybe a little more wood removal right in here? Sorry fellas with all the posting...i appreciate your support!!
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You didn't answer my thickness question and to me it's relevant.
It looks to me like the bottom limb is bending more than the top and I prefer the bottom to be the stronger slightly of the 2 limbs.
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Measured at brace just out of the fades it has a 1/16" positive tiller. That bottom limb thickness has been evened out much more since I made those adjustments.
I still firmly believe the lower fade is stiff coming out a little ways and is causing the rest of the limb to work more. I think the upper limb may still be a little stiff to boot midlimb out.
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Actually the strung picture looks good. It's sometimes hard to see on character bows what the proper bend should look like. Is the lower fade that you are talking about actually thicker or is that just the way the stave is built?
If you do remove wood from that lower fade you might have to remove the wrap and blend it into the handle area.
Don't get carried away. The perfect bow hasn't been built yet and sometimes the prettiest ones don't turn out to be the best performers. If you feel it shoots good I sure wouldn't be in a rush to make a bunch of late changes.
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I was told to put my bow down for 5 minutes and help make milk shakes!!! Be right back Fred....who wants a milk shake anyway?!?!
....yeah i suppose i do :P
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What should I do with these two little pin knots?
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160718_200354_zpszfshjk8x.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160718_200354_zpszfshjk8x.jpg.html)
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David, I'd leave them be for now. You could just put a drop of superglue on them and then sand them out when you're ready to start finishing the back. The back is already sealed, correct?
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I think the lower fade is a little thicker and with the limb being an inch and a half shorter it could probably be thinned down some. A couple long even scrapes on the top limb can bring that one back a little more too. Then a light tan and she'll be ready to put her dress back on!
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Yes just a little wood glue over that area...Ajooter I am a backwards south paw and that would be a great bow to add to my collection! as far as your tillering I agree just a touch where your mark is and a touch just after the wrap but I think the bow is looking awesome- Hammertime
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David, I'd leave them be for now. You could just put a drop of superglue on them and then sand them out when you're ready to start finishing the back. The back is already sealed, correct?
This on the stave I'm starting on, so no, the back isn't really "sealed" with any sort of finish yet.
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What should I do with these two little pin knots?
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160718_200354_zpszfshjk8x.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160718_200354_zpszfshjk8x.jpg.html)
ignore them :o
so long as the're not on the edge they shouldn't matter. and with it being hop-hornbeam i really wouldn't worry.
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I would seal the back and ends with shellac, poly, or something.
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I got the rough knocks glued on tonight, I should have it strung up and be back to tillering tomorrow.
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/328DC750-091B-4170-90F9-4CADD16BFF09.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/328DC750-091B-4170-90F9-4CADD16BFF09.jpg.html)
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Well, the plan B bow is set. Here's a YouTube video of me shooting it and panning over of the bow (unfortunately, I wasn't on camera... the cameraman was at work, and I guess I'm not so great at self-filming!).
https://youtu.be/iDg-EQGllDc
It ended up 66" ntn, 51# @ 29". In addition to having hickory heartwood tips and overlay, I glued on an extension on the left side of the handle so it could have a shelf. The back of the bow has a rattlesnake cloth on it (got it from 3rivers) and it has jute wrapped around the ends to hold it down. The string is a 10 strand D97 with 16 strand string loops. I threw on some beaver balls on the string as well. It's sealed with 5 coats of tung oil and 1 coat of clear shellac.
But that's enough about that bow. I really want to get a trilam done for my trade, so from here on out, I'll be posting about that endeavor. I want to post pictures of where I'm at with that, but the phone hasn't uploaded the picture to the internet yet... I will post them as soon as I see them (most likely tomorrow morning). Anyway, the trilam I posted last ran into a snag. The walnut core on the top limb cracked at the curve. While it looks like it's solidly glued in place and it does have a tip wedge to make the tip static, I'm not going to send that bow out. I'll work on it later to see if I can get it tillered out and report how that goes.
So... I have the materials for one more trilam attempt. While I know Fred's extending the deadline a bit, I really want to try to get this thing ready and in the hands of my guy by no later than the beginning of August, so now that my evenings are free (had to play in a pit for Oklahoma), I'll be burning the midnight oil to get her ready. So, here's where I stand now: I have 2 pieces of osage that are 1/4" thick that I spliced together tonight, a piece of walnut that's 3/16" that I need to taper to 1/16" at the ends, and a piece of bamboo that's 1/8" thick and has the profile of the bow roughed out that I'll need to taper to 1/16" at the ends. I will get this accomplished tomorrow evening.
As it's late now and I have an early day ahead of me tomorrow, I will wrap it up here. I will explain more about how this bow will go after I get pictures uploaded!
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That tri lam your planing sounds awsome ! I will get a pic up of my taper jig in a few
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David. If the pin knots hasn't been violated. Which they shouldn't be since its iron wood and only the bark has been removed. I would do nothing to them. I've made plenty of bows with pin knots and as long as I didn't violate the rings around/on them I haven't had no problems at all.
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Hers the jig i use for tapering power lams and core ... seen you talk about tapering just thought i would show my simple setup..
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OK, pics as promised!
Here's the recurce core fracture:
(http://i.imgur.com/SL09oSZ.jpg)
The lams as they stand now:
(http://i.imgur.com/r6nZhNm.jpg)
And the form I'll be using (if anyone here also looks at tradgang, it should look familiar ;D)
(http://i.imgur.com/XHdF9X0.jpg)
I'm at work now, so I can't get into the details too much right now (maybe on a 15 min break), but I'll spell out pretty specifically what I plan to do so I can get advice along the way (with how few people to receive a bow, there's little point in going through the "it's x pounds at y draw length).
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That combination sounds like it will make a gorgeous bow. What do you use to get the laminations flat?
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Thats beautiful !
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Ty, that bow in the video is amazing and I can tell it shoots great. I don't know how many bows you've made but will say that your progress is phenomenal. Can't wait to see the trilam.
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Thanks for the kind word, Fred. I just wish the video had the bow on it so you could see how it was bending. But, from my perspective, you can feel it just a touch in the hand when you release the arrow, but I was also using a lighter arrow than I would like (it was about 450 grains). I'm guessing I would have felt less if I had used a 500-600 grain arrow. However, the arrow spine I was using was good and the arrows were hitting where I was looking.
Jeff, I used a jointer to get the bamboo and osage down to their current size (the osage I got from Carson @ Echo Archery in 5/16" thickness... I got the boo from him too!). I have a picture of the jointer on my phone... it's an old beast, but it gets the job done!
For the walnut, I actually ripped it from a bigger board. I used a table saw to get the width and to cut that smaller board in half for the thickness (it was a 1 x 10 that was 6" long... if I had a better bandsaw, I would use that instead). I managed to get a 1/4" thick board from cutting it with the table saw. From there, I used a DeWalt planer to get it down to 3/16. That planer is sweet for getting boards down to 1/8" thick, but I haven't figured out a way to use it to put a taper on my lams (it's a bit more difficult since it's using blades to cut the board to size... I would LOVE a sanding planer, but that's a little out of the budget!).
To taper them, I'll get the taper close using the spindle sander that the form is resting on in the form pic. Then, once the taper is close, I use a hand planer to get it the rest of the way.
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There is a dogwood on the way to one of you. USPS has it now, should deliver Thursday.
I hope it meets approval of the recipient, it represents my best efforts and abilities.
Enjoy!
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In fact, here's the jointer!
(http://i.imgur.com/lhg7pH3.jpg)
It's amazing the stuff you can buy when you have a military base 10 miles away and the airman didn't want to pay for the Air Force to ship heavy things to the base he's transferring to!
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And Loope, with such a sweet bow you're sending out, I wouldn't worry at all about how it will be received!
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Thanks Ty, and your Plan B in the video looks great. I look forward to seeing what you are going to do with a new tri-lam.
David, in your picture showing the pin knots, the two in the center should be fine, but there is one near the edge of the stave that you should watch while your are laying out the bow. Be careful to watch for any pin knots at the edge of the bow. You might be able to shift the layout one way or the other to avoid knots on the edge, or if you can't get away from them, leave a little extra wood around the knot.
Michael
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Loope, the one off to the side in the pic isn't going to be in the bow. There is one a little ways down that is right on the edge of the bow/extra wood. I'll just cut around it.
Thanks
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Thanks for the kind word, Fred. I just wish the video had the bow on it so you could see how it was bending. But, from my perspective, you can feel it just a touch in the hand when you release the arrow, but I was also using a lighter arrow than I would like (it was about 450 grains). I'm guessing I would have felt less if I had used a 500-600 grain arrow. However, the arrow spine I was using was good and the arrows were hitting where I was looking.
Jeff, I used a jointer to get the bamboo and osage down to their current size (the osage I got from Carson @ Echo Archery in 5/16" thickness... I got the boo from him too!). I have a picture of the jointer on my phone... it's an old beast, but it gets the job done!
For the walnut, I actually ripped it from a bigger board. I used a table saw to get the width and to cut that smaller board in half for the thickness (it was a 1 x 10 that was 6" long... if I had a better bandsaw, I would use that instead). I managed to get a 1/4" thick board from cutting it with the table saw. From there, I used a DeWalt planer to get it down to 3/16. That planer is sweet for getting boards down to 1/8" thick, but I haven't figured out a way to use it to put a taper on my lams (it's a bit more difficult since it's using blades to cut the board to size... I would LOVE a sanding planer, but that's a little out of the budget!).
To taper them, I'll get the taper close using the spindle sander that the form is resting on in the form pic. Then, once the taper is close, I use a hand planer to get it the rest of the way.
I was just looking at the R/D trilam buildalongs on tradgang. Are you planning to heat-bend the reflexed tips prior to glue up? Osage bends really easy with dry heat, and I bet that will help the tips keep their reflex.
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Loope...... Is that the same dogwood bow you were shooting at the classic?
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From my experience in trilams def bent the osage with a lil dry heat before glue up..... cant wait for my bow to get her loope ;)
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Ty...I just watched the video and that is a really fine bow you are sending to some lucky fellow.
Good job bud!
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Steve, yes , it is the one from the classic. Since then I flipped the tips a little and thinned the tips some more. Ive shot a couple hundred arrows through it since the classic and I really like it. With the tweaks since the classic, it has a little more zing to it now. I am excited to give it away, but I hate to see it go.
Michael
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Fingers crossed - maybe a package from Loope!
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I shipped out this morning. So someone should keep there eyes out for a big green pvc pipe.
Kyle
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Now that I have a spare moment, I'm going to spell out how I'm going to go about this trilam. If anything sounds out of place, please let me know!
So, I'm aiming for a bow that's in the mid 50 pound range at a 29" draw. I'm planning on making the bow 68" long as measured along the belly (it'll shorten a wee bit "as the crow flies" once the reflex and deflex is put in). The top limb will be an inch longer than the bottom limb and I plan on making a 13" handle section.
My osage is currently 9/32" thick. After some sanding, the goal is 1/4". The walnut core will taper from 3/16" at the fades to 1/16" at the tip. The bamboo will taper from 1/8" from the fades to 1/16" at the tip. My only question is how wide to make it in order to make my weight. The standard seems to be 1 1/4" at the fades, keep it straight for 6 inches, then taper to 1/2" at the tips. For the time being, I'm going to leave the fades a little wider (starting at no wider than 1 1/2" with a minimum of 1 3/8"). I haven't tapered the walnut yet, so if the numbers don't look quite right for what I'm aiming for, I still have the ability to taper the walnut either more or less (I would like to have the fades at the 1 1/4" mark).
I was just looking at the R/D trilam buildalongs on tradgang. Are you planning to heat-bend the reflexed tips prior to glue up? Osage bends really easy with dry heat, and I bet that will help the tips keep their reflex.
You betcha! From what I've read and seen on TG, it looks like the last 6-7 inches of the osage has about 2 inches of reflex added in. I'll be accomplishing that tonight.
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I've never built a triple laminated bow so am not sure what to expect. Can I ask what the purpose of a 13" handle section is? I don't believe I've ever seen one and to be honest it sounds awful long and awkward to me.
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Fred that length handle/riser section is very common, depending on how he glues it up. It will be baby butt smooth in the hand. Long risers always are, when cooked right.
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I'm not going to post any pictures from other sites since I don't have permission from the authors of those posts, but if you do some searching, you can find full draw pictures of the style of bow I'm going to make. They have longer handle sections that don't look out of place on the bow.
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Pearl Drums, here's the form I'm using. The center post is 3 3/4" tall, the two mid-limb posts are 2 3/4", and the two outer posts are 6". I plan on resting the spot where the center of the handle will be on the center of the middle post and having the two short posts at middle of the limbs. I will then shape the handle piece to match the bend where the handle will go after it's all glued together.
(http://i.imgur.com/6QnReV5.jpg)
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Looks just like my ol' buddy Roy's set up. He uses a 13 or 14" riser as well. It all blends together and makes for nice fades. If you have made a few lam bows you know how important it is to start with a loooong riser and not a short riser. You start too short and before you know it the fades are too short and the core bends abruptly into the handle. I had to rebuild an ipe/hickory bow because I started too short, around 10".
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Thanks for the info. I'm going to watch this one closely. Might have to try something similar. I'm about to attempt my first BBO and then I'll give the trilams a go.
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Looks just like my ol' buddy Roy's set up. He uses a 13 or 14" riser as well. It all blends together and makes for nice fades. If you have made a few lam bows you know how important it is to start with a loooong riser and not a short riser. You start too short and before you know it the fades are too short and the core bends abruptly into the handle. I had to rebuild an ipe/hickory bow because I started too short, around 10".
Thanks for the tip on the riser! I'll be cutting out a piece of figured maple from a board I have, so I'll be sure to make it a wee bit longer. As far as where I got the inspiration for this bow, let's just say the only thing that's missing is a can of Coors Light. ;D
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;D Budweiser should work.
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Well, I have the bamboo tapered. Here's the before and after:
(http://i.imgur.com/qglS7jZ.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/b8cXZmp.jpg)
I started to flip the tips of the osage, but I didn't have enough clamps at work to git-r-done (I'll get them flipped tomorrow morning). And unless I hear otherwise, I will go ahead with my plan to taper the walnut as I stated earlier.
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Good evening!
Here's my to far gone update.
Plan A walnut bow: Had to cut it down and make it a bendy handle. The sideways curve on one limb was to much, couldn't get the string to line up through the handle. I tried to steam it out but ended up getting a stress fracture so cut down it was. Now 'm fighting the wonky left limb in tillering. What do you guys think? I wanted to get a good profile on it before pulling any further.
Also started a plan B in case the shit hits the fan with the walnut. It's a R/D trilam, maple/cherry/maple. Core tapered with my scraper, the table saw jig did not work at all. I got a riser to glue on here in a day or two, just gotta get a better fit.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_1018.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_1018.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_1017.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_1017.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_1020.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_1020.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h330/geek_usa80/IMG_1021.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/geek_usa80/media/IMG_1021.jpg.html)
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ty_in_ND:
Where're you gonna put your riser, smack in the center? That's where I'm leaning to but then I was thinking I might have to cut the lower limb an inch or so. Would be interesting to hear our thoughts and what you're gonna do.
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Lookin good ty...enjoying all the pictures and following along.
Glad to see your still at it Janderson.
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Tracking number says the bow was delivered 9:31, left on front porch. Someone has a Loope bow.
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Struck out again - porch empty.
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Well, here are some more pics!
Here's how I went about adding the taper to the core lam. First, I made marks to divide the working part of the core into 4 sections.
(http://i.imgur.com/gZvXg5q.jpg)
I extend those lines to the sides. Then I mark the thickness I want at those lines. Since I'm going from 3/16" to 1/16", I make a marks at 5/32, 1/8, 3/32, and 1/16.
(http://i.imgur.com/xFm2969.jpg)
I then get close to those lines using the spindle sander, trying to make an even roughed out taper between the lines. After I get close, I finish the rest of the taper by clamping the lam to a table and trimming it with a hand plane.
(http://i.imgur.com/7vrGzSk.png)
Here's the end result:
(http://i.imgur.com/VU8xf4z.png)
And here's what the flipped osage looks like:
(http://i.imgur.com/rvGecOk.jpg)
I'm getting close to glue-up time. I'll probably do it Friday after work. Jandersson, I laid the bow out so the handle/riser section is offset from the center of the bow (the middle of the handle section is 1/2" from the middle of the 68" length). I'm not sure about moving the handle section around if you didn't plan on it being offset.
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Dang empty pourch
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Ajooter, your inbox is full buddy. And no worries at all. Just keepin on top of things. I can wait for "something else" ?? ;D ;D ;D
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Sanderson, it looks to me like that kink on the left is also hinging. Have a look at how it moves when you pull on it. Maybe someone else sees it differently
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I think Jeff is right about your left limb, Jandersson. To me, it looks like your limb is stiff from the fade to the spot with your whoppty-do (the spot where the hinge is), then it's stiff from past that point to the tip. I'm not sure what the answer is, but I wouldn't bend it any more until you get a game plan together. Just my $.02, take it for what it's worth (especially as a novice).
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Bummer!! My porch is empty again too, according to the kids anyway. I won't be home for a couple more hours.
That reflex deflex look sweet, is that the same as the one your pulling back in the pic?
Tattoo Dave
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Darn.......no porch!
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j, I think I'd get that on a form and heat out that kink. It would make things a lot easier for you to see.
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Tracking number says the bow was delivered 9:31, left on front porch. Someone has a Loope bow.
I GOT IT! AND IT'S AWESOME! pics to follow, it's pouring rain right now or I'd be out shooting it. Loope, you did great man, you really did! I think you said it's Dogwood, right?
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:) Congrats, Sidmand!!! Got the shock of your life didn't you? :-X
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Sidmand,
I am so glad you like it, and I hope it serves you well! Yes, the bow is made from flowering dogwood, with cherry handle lamination, and redbud underlays on the tips. The dogwood is a very white wood, and I remembered you mentioned wanting to hunt with it, so I dyed it a little darker so it would not be a white flag in the woods. I didn't want to lose the character, so just a light dye on the main body, and then darker on the tips. The color is from aniline dyes, and the finish is tru-oil.
Loope
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Congrats sidmand. That's a nice looking bow loope made you
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Congrats indeed sidmand. I'm sure you're proud of that bow. Enjoy!
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Congrats Sid!!! That bow looked sweet!!
I made some more changes to the tiller and have pictures...but....i updated my phone and now i cant figure out how to upload using imgur again. Gotta love technology.
Lost considerable weight so I will give it a heavy heat treatment and see what happens. Bow is definately long enough to pike if i have to.
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http://i.imgur.com/BlAWtiX.jpg
try this...
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Well now time to let my imagination get the best of me wondering which bow i will get lol
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Sidmand, my suggestion to name the bow your sending "Trubadour"
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Fred:
Tried that and got a little of it out and that's where I am now. That kink is only on one side of the limb the other side is straight and I'm a little afraid of forcing the wood and get stress fractures or something. Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong but by flattening the kink that side is gonna be longer then the other side and that could maybe compress the kink side and stretch the other and could that lead to problems? I don't know, I don't have much experience but my gut says no.
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Well then I'd work the kink just like I'd work a handle and fades, save it til last but always keep it in consideration while you're looking at the tiller. A "little at a time" so that it never develops into a problem.
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Whats are your thoughts on piking vs heat treating?...think i should heat treat first and then pike or vice versa?
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Alright, I'm getting on it tonight again but should have some real progress on Sunday when I have a full day to work on it!
ajooter:
What's piking?
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Piking is shortening the bow from either end. That will in turn up the draw weight.
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Whats are your thoughts on piking vs heat treating?...think i should heat treat first and then pike or vice versa?
A proper heat temper should up your weight by at least 10#. I would leave the length alone until you see what tempering gives you. Looks like your top limb is still heavier and the bow looks tipped forward in your hand, but that's just a pic, I cant feel it from here :)
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Sanderson, it looks to me like that kink on the left is also hinging. Have a look at how it moves when you pull on it. Maybe someone else sees it differently
I think that "hump" in the left limb is making it look more like a hinge than it really is...but is stiff outside that spot. The right looks a little stiff mid limb out too.
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Sanderson, it looks to me like that kink on the left is also hinging. Have a look at how it moves when you pull on it. Maybe someone else sees it differently
I think that "hump" in the left limb is making it look more like a hinge than it really is...but is stiff outside that spot. The right looks a little stiff mid limb out too.
Exactly what I'm seein too.
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Boxed up and heading to post office in about an hour. Is up to my poor victim to post anymore pics.
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Here's an updated list on who I need to see progress reports and full draw pictures from before they will receive a bow:
jandersson, Otter, Ryan C, Stuckinthemud, Tower.
Here's the list of who may ship anytime:
ajooter, DuBois, Dylan, Sidmand,
Here's the list of bows that are finished but with a hold on shipping until their recipients are ready:
Dakota Kid, hammertime, pincushion, tattoo dave
Let me know if you have any questions.
List of bows already received by recipient:
Dakota Kid, Drewster, DuBois, Gutshot, halfeye, Mo_coon-catcher, Sidmand, StixnStones Swampman, Turtle
We are working hand in hand with a few individuals and have extended the deadline in order to give them some more time to complete their project.
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On its way. Expected delivery Monday. ;D
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mine will be out tomorrow
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Congratulations Sidmand!!! :) Great feeling, isn't it Loope? :) :)
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Turtle, I'm sure there will be nothing poor about your recipient's enjoyment when that one arrives!
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Turtle, your just saving the best for almost last ;)
Mine should be on some poor saps step by this evening.
Congratulations Sidmand!!! :) Great feeling, isn't it Loope? :) :)
1+
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Winner, Winner, Chicken dinner! I got my bow from Mo Coon Catcher today. Man o man is it sweet. Turkey feather backed yew mollie. already put a couple dozen bullets thru it and it is smooth and really fun to shoot. Will get pics up when my wife gets home. Thanx again Kyle, for such a beautiful bow.
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Well, here's how everything looks on the form (the dry-run):
(http://i.imgur.com/PkzA3pQ.jpg)
I thought I was setting up the ruler so the 24" line was in line of the middle of the form, but I accidentally set it so it was in the center of the bow (1/2" to the left). The bottom limb is on the right; top on the left. I'm not sure if this is exactly how I want to set the bow up when I do glue it together (I was trying to get the deflex in the middle of each limb - between the tip and the center of the handle). In fact, I know for sure I want to move the end posts further away from the center (closer to the ends of the tips). But the short and skinny is it fits on the form and nothing cracked when I clamped it down!
I forgot the bicycle tubes at home, so I'll most likely glue this puppy up tomorrow morning!
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Glad you like it stix. There's actually a heavy later of sinew hiding under those feathers. That's actually a piece of ERC with 4 slices of cherry in each of the levers. And it will probably pick up some weigt over time since I tillered it out with the humidity running in the 80-90* range. Ainew backed cedar makes for a snappy little bow, don't it. That was probably my favorite of the bows I've built. It was a pain in the butt, but it's smooth, shoots well, and weighs next to nothing.
Kyle
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Congrats, Stix! That was a sweet bow you got.
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Looking forward to pics Stix - congrats!
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I thought that was erc....pix pix pix!!! And lots of em!
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my bad . it is erc.
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Some pics
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Sorry about screwin up on what wood it is, just so much goin on with it. Shoulda known by the color.
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Because I couldn't let it rest, I took another pic of the bow on the form. I think this is more what I want it to look like:
(http://i.imgur.com/Bsr1V2t.jpg?2)
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I like that better too Ty.
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Dang Tye, that looks killer!
Congrats Mr. Stix ;D
That is a beautiful work of art Kyle.
I sent mine out. It got to the sorting facility and it hasn't moved since 0142 yesterday am. Kinda worries me cause last time I had a stave get stuck it showed up a month later almost split in two.
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Wow Mike really nice looking feather backed Molly. Looks sweet..................really nice looking bow you built Kyle
DBar
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Ty that looks pretty hot. That second profile also looks like it will be easier to tiller. How do you clamp the lams together? Do you do it with a bunch of C-clamps, or do you wrap with inner tubes, or both??
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Ty, that profile looks sweet. Good luck with that bow. Should be a dandy!
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Cool bow, MoCoon! Congrats, Stix! :)
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Ty that looks pretty hot. That second profile also looks like it will be easier to tiller. How do you clamp the lams together? Do you do it with a bunch of C-clamps, or do you wrap with inner tubes, or both??
I don't own dozens of C-clamps ;( That's the route I would take. What I'm going to do for this bow worked for me in a few other laminated bows I glued together - I'm using a couple of 6 inch C-clamps on the mid-limb posts and one F-clamp for the middle post to hold the bow to the form. I'll also clamp down the endposts to the 2×4, as there's enough pressure from the tips pushing against them that the posts might slip. I'll use bicycle inner tubes to bind the lams together. The tubes do a good job of holding everything together and applying even pressure. I'll use spring clamps to hold the tube ends in place and use squeeze clamps to reinforce the pressure at the ends so that the walnut and bamboo form to the flipped osage tips.
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Status update ;D
Got it back to 28" and I'm about 5lbs heavy tomorrow I'm going to start sanding it up and put a finish on unless someone sees a problem.
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/0C7C98E2-3909-4CCD-85DD-CB3CDCCCADCE.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/0C7C98E2-3909-4CCD-85DD-CB3CDCCCADCE.jpg.html)
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Dylan, I like it. Don't see a problem at all. Nice bend. You can ship as soon as you're ready. I'm thinking your guy will love it.
Good job!!!!
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Alright fellas here's some pics of the two bows I have pert near ready to go.
First up is the rock elm with light sinew and snakeskin cloth backing.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2884_copy_zpsa1jzr6ko.jpg)
I played around with the staining until I was able to suggest a belly scale pattern. I kinda like it. It adds to the overall look.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2885_copy_zpszbb9cyyf.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2886_copy_zpsgb1yxy5p.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2887_copy_zpsu4tbgvys.jpg)
Next is the hornbeam mollie with wood burnt levers showing the leaves and "fruit" of the tree.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2894_copy_zpsocjcbptk.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2895_copy_zpswrc5chdy.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2889_copy_zpsbuzo8rnx.jpg)
I'm leaning toward the first one simply because it's a better shooter. Unless heat treating the belly on #2 gives it a huge boost in performance I think it will be the rock elm. I figured I'd show them both cause they both look pretty good, but when it comes to launching arrows there is a clear winner.
I'll try to do some full draws tomorrow, but it's pretty late on the weekend and if I go outside drawing bows at this hour, I may attract unwanted attention and possible over reaction.
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That looks great dylan! When will it be at my door?!
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I cant come up with words kid.....stunning art on both and good looking profiles at brace to boot!!
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Dylan, that bend looks great! Nice work. What kind of lipstick you going to doll it up with if any?
Dakota, those both look really good! I love that belly stain job, good idea.
Tattoo Dave
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Dylan, that looks really nice -- simple and clean look. And Dakota, man, outstanding job on that faux snakeskin bow! Scutes look real! And the bow has a beautiful outline! Recipients of you guys bows are going to be super happy. :)
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Nothing wrong with that bend Dylan. Should be a happy camper getting that one.
DK, I love em both. Gonna have to find out how you did that belly someday ;)
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Dillan very nice tiller on your bow
DK my o my that's a nice stain job and the wood burnings on the other bow is very nice to
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Man I can't believe this is my first time seeing this. Is it too late to join??
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Dylan . . . great lookin' bend.
Kid . . . sharp lookin' finish on those 2 sticks.
Congrats, guys!
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Dylan, killer bend man... 8) 8) 8)
Don
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Dylan, that is a great looking bend. I haven't tried a bendy handle yet, but it looks sweet
Dakota, both look great, a lot of talent in that art.
Ty, I am liking your build and the explanations/photos. I've been thinking about building a similar jig to start trying some laminated bows, but haven't yet pulled the trigger. Looking great!
Everyone's bows are looking really awesome!
Loope
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Dakota, love the bows. I already know first hand of your artwork from the arrows you sent me. I imagine the pics don't do those bows justice.
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Dylan, that ELB's looking pretty sharp. I can't wait to see how you finish her up!
Dakota, the ash bow is exquisite! I love what you did to the belly. The unstrung profile is also quite nice. If that is the bow you send out, the recipient will be happy.
The HHB bow does look nice, too. The work you did on the levers is great!
However, someone needs to have a serious chat with you. Socks and sandals... O:)
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Ty!!! I dont wanna hear anymore snide remarks about socks and sandles!!! Once in awhile i catch myself in socks and sandles while working on a bow....the socks snag all the shaving and drag them into the house which = one unhaply gf!!
Guys...i am having serious trouble with imgur...may have to find another way to upload photos...but..i think i go this bos where i want it. We have all guven each other advice on tiller...some listen...some dont (thats me)...but im really glad i went back and reworked this bow. I ended up bringing the top limb back some more and the piking a half inch off the lower limb. Im just shy of my intended draw weight so a little belly tempering should get me there!!
I will continue to work on pics...
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Ajooter, I use VSCO. found it in my app store. super easy to use.
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(http://i.imgur.com/8EX5Ig1.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/8WhKHof.jpg?1)
Here she is fellas....like Fred said no such thing as a perfect bow but if ya see some more room for improvement speak up. Thanks for all the quick gestures to help with the pictures. I used the computer instead of my phone.
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Nice bend ajooter!! He'll appreciate all of the extra time and work you put in to make that one. You already have it dolled up the last I saw so I'd get it shipped >:D
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Actually fred shes pretty naked...but it wont take long to get her ready for shipment!! whats the deadline again?!
I was working till 3 am this morning cleaning up a fire suppression system that decided to just spray powder all over creation in Lee Mass...i might have been near Plan B...i should have stopped in on my way home this morning >:D
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damn ajooter, that cleaned up great. tiller looks sweet buddy. ship it.
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Ajooter, that bend looks great now. Nice work.
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Somebody is gonna love that bow. The extra work will be appreciated by the new owner
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Aaron, how long is your draw now that you've been shooting for awhile?
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160723_141002338_HDR_zpsbetfevhv.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160723_141002338_HDR_zpsbetfevhv.jpg.html)
I been working on my trade bow today ... Here's a full draw pic
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Alright!!! Otter's back. I thought maybe you got lost in the swamp :laugh: Full draw is looking good.
Page 230 has been updated.
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Looks good Otter. I think the top limb looks stiff over the upper 2/3rds of that limb. The bottom limb might be a hair behind the upper.
Im probably splitting hairs tho 8)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160723_141002338_HDR_zpsbetfevhv.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160723_141002338_HDR_zpsbetfevhv.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/IMG_20160723_143041294_HDR_zps3ndyeq58.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/IMG_20160723_143041294_HDR_zps3ndyeq58.jpg.html)
I put dogwood overlays and backing with clothe fake diamondback snake skin
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/IMG_20160723_143049773_HDR_zpsb7pc6lbg.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/IMG_20160723_143049773_HDR_zpsb7pc6lbg.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/IMG_20160723_143106624_zpsizw17kvi.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/IMG_20160723_143106624_zpsizw17kvi.jpg.html)
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Lol I think I'm starting to figure out this photo bucket
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Ajooter, that bow is bending much better now. I hope the heat treating gets you to the weight you want to hit!
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WOW, you guys are getting it done.......looking good.
Dylan, you "nailed" the tiller on your bow. Well done.
Kid, two very fine looking bows. Not sure which one I like best, but would be delighted with either.
Ajooter, your bow has come together very well. Congrats man.
Otter, I agree that the outer 2/3 of the top limb looks stiff. Work on that a bit and you should be in good shape.
There's going to be some happy recipients soon!
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Man - they ARE getting it done. Looking good - hope one of them is coming my way!!!
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I checked tracking # and for some reason it is at the post office and I will get a "new expected delivery date when it is available".
I guess they don't deliver on Saturday over in ______.
Here's a shot of just a tip :)
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WOW, you guys are getting it done.......looking good.
Dylan, you "nailed" the tiller on your bow. Well done.
Kid, two very fine looking bows. Not sure which one I like best, but would be delighted with either.
Ajooter, your bow has come together very well. Congrats man.
Otter, I agree that the outer 2/3 of the top limb looks stiff. Work on that a bit and you should be in good shape.
There's going to be some happy recipients soon!
Sorry folks. Feeling lazy. 1+ on all he said ;D
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If the tip is any suggestion of what the resy of the bow looks like then 8)
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Dylan, that ELB's looking pretty sharp. I can't wait to see how you finish her up!
Dakota, the ash bow is exquisite! I love what you did to the belly. The unstrung profile is also quite nice. If that is the bow you send out, the recipient will be happy.
The HHB bow does look nice, too. The work you did on the levers is great!
However, someone needs to have a serious chat with you. Socks and sandals... O:)
Dang, I was hoping no one would see that. I almost took the time to crop the pics, too.
German heritage... what can I say. Seriously though, they keep the knapping flakes from getting between my toes. Plus they keep my sandals from getting offensive to the nose. They do tend to help distribute wood shavings every where I go, but I just consider that a form of marking my territory.
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Finally got a chance to shoot the bow I got from Loope and take pictures today, going to start another thread on it some time this evening. Got to resize the pictures, they are too big to upload here. Keep your peepers peeled.
I'm doing some final finish sanding and applying tung oil tonight and tomorrow. It's been hellishly hot and humid so it's taking a lot of time to finish and dry. But, it's going out in a couple days, I just want it to be good and dry, and the oil is taking more time than I thought it would.
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I checked tracking # and for some reason it is at the post office and I will get a "new expected delivery date when it is available".
I guess they don't deliver on Saturday over in ______.
Here's a shot of just a tip :)
Well, DuBois, they must think the back of a '96 Silverado pickup truck is the local P.O. then because I got it!!!! :) :) :) :)
I was just heading out at 4:30 to hear a old friend from out of town give an art lecture, it was 90 out and I had just washed up best I could with limited water, after working all day on the cistern armature, and there it was, a long white tube sticking out of pickup truck. I had to drive all the way to town, and listen to the lecture and drive all the way back before I could open it. Needless to say, I didn't linger!
By the time I got back home a thunderstorm had come up (otherwise very welcome) and I just had time to cut the end off the tube, admire for a moment , before I had the string on it and ran outside with a couple of arrows. It hit where I looked, nice and hard, even without my thumb arm guard, with the skies black and drops starting to pelt down. Then I ran inside and wrote this.
Thank you, thank you, Marco!! :) It's beautiful.
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Congrats B....cant wait to see some more pics of that stick.
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Otter glad to see you back. I like those skins now remind us what kind of wood you using.
Plan B pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic.
And every body else that has received a bow let's see some more pics. I know I must have missed a few. I will start with my bow I received from Mitch Osborne
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My trade bow from mwosborne thanks Mitch
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/0475842E-6430-415D-BDC9-0D89D2E28E2C_zpswxy29qsw.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/0475842E-6430-415D-BDC9-0D89D2E28E2C_zpswxy29qsw.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/DEA4483F-E306-4AB8-BDF4-A64457B23C06_zpsqtl92d0s.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/DEA4483F-E306-4AB8-BDF4-A64457B23C06_zpsqtl92d0s.jpg.html)
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Plan B pic pic pic pic pic pic pic pic.
Soitinly!!
But yer gunna hafta wait til the sun gits round to the east coast agin fer me to take a picshur, er two, Guts! :laugh:
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I checked tracking # and for some reason it is at the post office and I will get a "new expected delivery date when it is available".
I guess they don't deliver on Saturday over in ______.
Here's a shot of just a tip :)
Dubois: just let me have the tracking number and I'll go down to the post office and pick it up. >:D
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Mitch, you lucky dog. That's a FINE looking bow. Let's see more of it.
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Well, I'm about ready to start tilllering this next bow. Gutshot helped me out a bunch on dimensions for cutting this one out. Thanks man!
Hopefully tomorrow I'll cut some string grooves amd start getting this baby closer to being a finished bow!
(No pictures. It just looks like a half finished bow.)
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Otter glad to see you back. I like those skins now remind us what kind of wood you using.
This is a Osage orange bow ... I went to the Classic this May and made it there in the self bow challenge... Just been really busy this summer and just putting on the finishing touches
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Congratulation PlanB. Sounds like a nice bow.
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Dubes, cant wait to see that one. The tips look awesome.
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Otter, I'm a little leery about giving any tiller advice without seeing more pics. Being you made it at the Classic I'm figuring you had some of the best hands on help available to you. I'd be careful about changing too much if the bow performs to your satisfaction.
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And as a side note especially to any of you new builders: Just because someone gives you tiller advice doesn't mean you should start removing wood from where you were told. You'd be much better served to take a 24 hr break and wait for differing opinions.
A prime example is a bow one of the new members in the trade was working on. He was told by a couple of different people that the bow wasn't bending enough near the fades. Instead of waiting he immediately attacked the problem and was rewarded with a bow that ended up 3/16" at the fades and 1/4" to 5/16" elsewhere down limb. He'd already removed too much wood to meet the specs needed for his recipient.
Just remember that advice is usually an opinion and only should be followed after careful consideration.
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Otter, I'm a little leery about giving any tiller advice without seeing more pics. Being you made it at the Classic I'm figuring you had some of the best hands on help available to you. I'd be careful about changing too much if the bow performs to your satisfaction.
Yes I did have alot of advice from some awesome Bowyer's ..... There are some kinks and little twists in the limbs , I will get some more pictures of full draw from both sides as soon as I'm able... And thanks for the advice Fred.
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Pics of the fine bow I received from DuBois.
Thank you kindly, DuBois, I'm proud to own it!
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That is a sweet looking bow you got PlaB That's an original handle too. I like it.
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congrats plan b. that is one awesome stik. bend looks great,squirrel grip, snake skin back, beautiful tips. great work Dubes.
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Yeah!!
Right on Steve!
I'm really glad it got there in one piece and that you like it.
Dang Gut!!
That is one fine bow.
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Nice bow ya got there B! That handle is something else...way cool!
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Wow! I am simply amazed at how awesome these bows are looking. I am so glad to be part of this trade. It has exposed me to so many different styles of bows and artwork, and tillering/building advice, that just being part of the trade will improve my work. Thanks guys!
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Well, I'll post pics of the glue up later today, but I glued the bow up this morning.
Also, congrats on the sweet bow Plan B!
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Marco that's a sweet bow you built for PlanB. Congrats to both of you
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Hi Guys, taken the family away for a few days but sneaked the holly D-bow in when wifey wasn't looking - finished floor tillering but cannot get the thing to string due to the 2.5" reflex - gonna make a stringer when I get home Wednesday. The reflex is really messing me up - keep seeing twists where there aren't any. Pretty sure the string alignment is 10mm off-centre but in the correct direction for a RH shooter, also think there is a little heli - twist along the length so have ordered up some horn nocks as if I try to straighten out the twist I might mess up the deflex, which is evenly spread across the whole length. Will fix the string alignment when I heat treat the bow at the end Thought I'd put in a little teaser about the grip decoration...... Also side and top views
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/image8.jpeg)
(http://[img]https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/image7.jpeg)[/img]
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/image6.jpeg)
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/image5.jpeg)
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Here are the pics!
I prepped the gluing surfaces by scraping them with a fine toothed saw blade. I placed the lams on a piece of plastic wrap that I wrapped around the lams after gluing them together. I also put painters tape on the belly side of the osage and the back side of the bamboo. I tried this on another backed bow I glued together and liked the result, as the dried glue comes off with the tape (and lowers the chance of me taking off too much when sanding/rasping off of the wood!).
(http://i.imgur.com/iYycgJI.jpg?1)
And here's how the bow looks on the form.
(http://i.imgur.com/CzAjmkt.jpg)
I used clamps to hold one limb together while I wrapped the other limb with a bike tube. I also clamped down the flipped section. When I got to that clamp, I would move it up an inch and keep wrapping tightly. Also, I love Smooth On! I had a moment after clamping down the bow of "Did I line everything up right?" and did some intense remeasuring and some slight shifting. This was about 30 minutes after I mixed the epoxy together. The Smooth On was still quite flexible at this point, so if I did have to make adjustments to how I placed the bow on the form (which I didn't!!), I could have without problems. As a random note, if you do use Smooth On for a trilam, I used about 120 grams (60 of each part) and I didn't have much leftover. I haven't really seen much out there for how much adhesive people are using for these glue-ups, so there it is!
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Ty, that is looking really good. I am curious about how much of that R/D profile will be held after it comes off the form. Guess we will see in a day or two.
Stuck-that bow is looking super hot. the tease on the handle is really mean. will you carve it, or paint on the decorations?
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Bit of carving, bit of colour - there's blue in the holly, so maybe a bit of gilding over blue acrylic? Am colour blind so welcome all comments concerning colour-tinted custom checkering.
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That is one nice looking bow PB - nice work Dubois. Have to say, I am a little jealous! >:D
Drewster - that is Gut's bow. :laugh: I am still waiting.
SIM - looks like a good start on that one. I've never worked holly.
TY - glue up looks good - now you have to wait for it to dry!
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/IMG_20160724_170900884_HDR_zpskokoexcg.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/IMG_20160724_170900884_HDR_zpskokoexcg.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/IMG_20160724_170529922_HDR_zpsu8tthaen.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/IMG_20160724_170529922_HDR_zpsu8tthaen.jpg.html)
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This skins look killer Otter and i didnt notice that little wiggle before. Gives her a nice bit of character.
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Stuck-that looks like it could be a real cool bow.
Very nice Otter!
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Thanks Ajooter,and DuBois... Just need to sand on it a little and start putting my finishing!
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I soaked the fake skin with tight bond 3 watered down ... And let it dry and kept working out any air bubbles...then I sanded off the edges with sand paper, then I put on two more coats of raw TB3 to seal all the threads on the skin and let it dry.
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This skins look killer Otter and i didnt notice that little wiggle before. Gives her a nice bit of character.
For Sure!
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(http://i.imgur.com/r7ngB5W.jpg?1)
Got one limb heat treated...ill work on the other tomorrow and hopefully have it braced for final tillering by the end of the week. I also tweaked the handle a little bit (no pics yet)....the pistol grip just wasn't comfortable and I want something that should be relatively comfy for anybody.
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gah, took me forever to get the pictures downloaded and resized, been busier than a one legged man in a butt kicking contest. Here is a couple pics here and in the next post, Loope did a FANTASTIC job on this bow and it shoots great. And, I got to practice, cause I'm way out of whack with my shooting :(
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one more picture - thank you Loope, you rock man!
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That's a fine looking bow Loope and Sidman. Good work guys.
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Nice job on that one Loope....congrats Sidmand!!
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That's a fine bow Loope. Lucky man, Sidmand! :)
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Well done Loope... Beautiful workmanship... Lucky man Sidmand!
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Well done Loope. Congrats Sid.
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AWESOME!
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Nice bow Sidmand.....enjoy!
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Sidman loope congrats to both of you.
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That's a great looking bow!
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Man!!
The bows coming out of this trade are SWEEET!
Fine looking bow Loopie ;)
Congrats to you Sid.
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I am glad you like it Sidmand. I had a great experience building it and I hope you have a great experience in the field. May it bring you much venison!
Loope
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More progress for you guys:
Here's the bow straight off the form. I'd say it held its shape pretty well.
(http://i.imgur.com/Ip9RUpf.jpg)
I then cleaned it up a wee bit, taking off the tape from the osage and trimming the sides a bit. I thought I would get the handle section glued on before getting more glue off of it, so here's how it looked before gluing it together (cherry sandwiched between maple):
(http://i.imgur.com/c7P2HMY.jpg?1)
Here she is glued up and clamped down, placed in my "solar hot box". 8)
(http://i.imgur.com/3FCUdNP.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/5RknGkh.jpg)
I used more Smooth On, so it cured real quickly in there! Now, it's down to roughing out the handle, getting the tape off the boo, and getting the sides trimmed.
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That looks good ty!
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Lookin good ty
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Ty, that looks nice from here. How are the glue lines?
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Package arrived at the correct post office this morning. >:D
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Which post office?! U got my other limb heat treated...i like how it kept some of that wonky profile. ill post pics later.
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Great looking bow you made, Loope, that looks like a sweet shooter!
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Ty, that looks nice from here. How are the glue lines?
(http://i.imgur.com/Zg3dz1L.jpg)
I haven't cleaned it up to the bamboo yet, but I'd say it looks okay.
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Out for delivery!!!!! ;)
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Sorry about taking so long to take some pictures and get them on here of the bow I recieved from Swampman. I'm horrible able taking pictures and actually posting them. BTW I've shot it a bunch and love how it feels.
Kyle
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Ty that bow will be one sweet azz rig when you are done, Im betting on it.
Kyle that is a great gift right there. With a tiller like that you can bet it will last for a long time.
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Swampman, you do fine work. Thanks for sharing the pics Kyle!
Pearl Drums, and to all who've said the bow is looking good, the bow is coming along well and I really appreciate all the encouraging words. We'll just have to see how the tillering goes before the final verdict comes in... I know Roy has some good videos and pictures out there for how the bow should look while tillering and at full draw and I'm sure you guys will be of great help, but I'm still the one who will have to get it bending right!
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Kyle, I am glad you have been shooting that bow. It looks like you have another nice stick laying in the grass in the one picture. I thought maybe it was a snake at first glance.
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Whoooooooo. Got it Turtle... and wow is it beautiful!! Shot 20 arrows through it shoots great smooth.. launched my 600 grain bodkin arrows 160 yards :) Handle feels great...
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Cabinetbowguy I got to watch some of the work put into this bow ... Its a good shooter for sure
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Glad it arrived in one piece. Hope it serves you well. I'm not used to stretching draw out to 29" so I hope I got it shot in well enough for the tiller not to shift. I've been shooting it since sometime in April.....it even made the trip to the Tennessee clasic to get a few arrows through it. Sure has been a pleasure to participate in this trade.
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It's been a while since I've posted my progress .
#55 lb @ 28" Osage, sinew backed & cover w/ western Diamondback.
I still need to seal it & wrap the handle.
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Dontower/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/EABC7E53-ED47-4CA2-99C0-0A0C9A131B53_zpsp72ixz13.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Dontower/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/EABC7E53-ED47-4CA2-99C0-0A0C9A131B53_zpsp72ixz13.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Dontower/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/F4BF218C-8CFF-4236-AC9D-F9396B68ACC1_zpsecewpnuu.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Dontower/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/F4BF218C-8CFF-4236-AC9D-F9396B68ACC1_zpsecewpnuu.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Dontower/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/653F4818-D789-47FC-8EFE-1972EEB66A34_zpshdistoqe.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Dontower/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/653F4818-D789-47FC-8EFE-1972EEB66A34_zpshdistoqe.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Dontower/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/DF8B4DC5-38F9-4BA9-98DF-C2B52528B9BE_zpsjwumsqjk.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Dontower/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/DF8B4DC5-38F9-4BA9-98DF-C2B52528B9BE_zpsjwumsqjk.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Dontower/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/DF8B4DC5-38F9-4BA9-98DF-C2B52528B9BE_zpsjwumsqjk.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Dontower/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/DF8B4DC5-38F9-4BA9-98DF-C2B52528B9BE_zpsjwumsqjk.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Dontower/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/47D1C148-71A8-4CAC-965F-4B1391712F28_zps2cnx8pq8.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Dontower/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01/47D1C148-71A8-4CAC-965F-4B1391712F28_zps2cnx8pq8.jpg.html)
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Looks great Tower cant wait to see the arc on that baby!! I knew yoid come flying in last minute..with all the knapping you do im surprised you had time to make a bow! :laugh:
Heres a few shots of my girls new figure...
(http://i.imgur.com/tjt4tNz.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/XwZaYAI.jpg?1)
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I sure proud to have it trutle i got 200 so arrows through it now and man its a nice shooter !
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Don, the sinew backed osage looks fantastic and I'm sure it will be well received and a shooter. Thanks for posting.
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Getting my plan d bending. Hickory 68" pyramid style. Carpathian elm bural riser and tips.
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I sure proud to have it trutle i got 200 so arrows through it now and man its a nice shooter !
Im glad you're enjoying it. That's the first time I ever tried vine maple, but I sure hope its not the last. Its a lot easier to work than most of the woods I ever tried and I was impressed with its flexibility. Gonna have to find me some more of that.
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That looks great Tim!!
Heres an update on the new handle. That pistol grip came out nice but it just wasnt that comfy...i like this a lot better! I may string her up tomorrow but im gonna try and wait till Friday.
(http://i.imgur.com/6aFBmDn.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/6FNuexw.jpg?1)
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Thank you ajooter yours is looking great!
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Don, that for sure looks like a Texas bow, well done, Sir.
'jooter that bow is sexy looking, and sleek.
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All these bows are looking good. Keep it up
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Don, that for sure looks like a Texas bow, well done, Sir.
'jooter that bow is sexy looking, and sleek.
Yes sir, took the words right outa my mouth.
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That's a great job on that skins tower. Looks like it grew on there!
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This one's going out this week, she is done. I want to send a few more arrows through her just because I'm not quit ready to send her away. Been a lot of firsts; first self bow, first Osage bow, first sinew bow, first character stave, first bow swap. I hope my target enjoys it. Fred, I will send you a tracking number when it goes out.
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Kinda makes me think of the 60's Sid ;D
I guess she must have gotten a name but of course you can't say it just yet.
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Some nice looking bow being finished! I'd take any one of them! Love the skins on Towers, curves on ajooters, and art work on Sidmans!
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Really great looking bow sidman!
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all these bows look amazing, great job guys. It was a pleasure being apart of this trade, my first.
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160727_103411053_zpsw1nibtlc.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160727_103411053_zpsw1nibtlc.jpg.html)
Here is a picture of Turtle I took at full draw with my trade bow.
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160727_111959640_HDR_zps0xuhgugn.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160727_111959640_HDR_zps0xuhgugn.jpg.html)
I put I cost of finish on
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160727_111953686_zps4pejtepx.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160727_111953686_zps4pejtepx.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160727_112012500_zpsnpghmvdv.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160727_112012500_zpsnpghmvdv.jpg.html)
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Looks good Otter!! Havent gotten my hands on any snake skins as of yet...
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Looks good Otter!! Havent gotten my hands on any snake skins as of yet...
Ajooter this is a fake clothe snake skin ... You can get them in a diamondback or Copperhead.... There 6' long and cost about 20 dollars a piece
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160727_111942344_zpscarscwrd.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160727_111942344_zpscarscwrd.jpg.html)
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Isn't a bow here I wouldn't be proud to own, great work all- Hammertime
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Man, I just can't get this to go my way.
I found a small lump that I needed to scrape off, it was on the side of the limb. I was smoothing everything up again venire cutting string grooves.
Boom. I uncovered a crack. Not a little one either. It's upwards of 6" long and goes right off the side of the limb. It's do to deep to take our without making the whole limb to skinny.
Does anyone here have a stave/blank I can buy, trade, or something? I don't care what it is, as long as there aren't any cracks.
Thanks
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do you have a picture of the crack david? im sorry to hear ya ran into another snag!
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Let me go take one
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Yeah David I hate to here this... Send some pictures and let's us all see what you have going on... And if your needing a good stave I'm sure we can all help you out ... Me and Turtle have something to give you if someone closer to you can't help you out. Chin up bud.
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It starts mid-limb, and runs 6-7" down one side of the limb.
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160727_150020_zpsl4dwb8wz.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160727_150020_zpsl4dwb8wz.jpg.html)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160727_150028_zps9wezqyd1.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160727_150028_zps9wezqyd1.jpg.html)
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If it was mine I would fill the crack with super glue and clamp it closed. Then make sure to round your edges,back and belly good before bending. If it makes out to full draw (which I think theres a good chance of) put a permanent wrap over that area. You can also wrap the area with strong cord while on the tree and remove it when you have to remove wood from that area and then rewrap before bending again. And yes I HAVE done this on a bow with a very similer crack. Other peoples opinions may vary.
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hmmm....that top picture is the belly correct? The grain orientation looks a little questionalbe. It looks like that crack ran across the grain rather then with it. I would flood it with super glue and wrap it up tight...i like to use bicycle innertube. Then just continue working the stave.
It appears you may have strayed away from the grain a little bit in examining the top pic. The left side of the limb shows the growth ring feathered out to tightly to the edge...that should be more centered.
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David. I have this black locust stave still. Or could probably give you an Osage I just can't get it shipped right now. If you want to cover shipping I'll give it to you or you could come down my way and pick it up. I'm only about a hour south of you.
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hmmm....that top picture is the belly correct? The grain orientation looks a little questionalbe. It looks like that crack ran across the grain rather then with it. I would flood it with super glue and wrap it up tight...i like to use bicycle innertube. Then just continue working the stave.
It appears you may have strayed away from the grain a little bit in examining the top pic. The left side of the limb shows the growth ring feathered out to tightly to the edge...that should be more centered.
Hmm...... guess I never thought of using innertube for temporary wrap....I'll have to remember that.
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Turtle, what would you use as a permanent rap?
Ajooter, yes, the top pic is the belly.
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Funny thing is, I found this crack by accident. The tool grabbed and dug out a big chunk. I had to thin it out right there, and I saw the darn thing right as I was almost done.
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I threw my bow on the scale today to check the draw weight before I inked the specs on it and it came in underweight by a significant amount compared to earlier measurements. ??? :( I don't really see how it could have lost that much draw weight unless humidity is a factor(it stays above 80% all summer here). My scale may be to blame too, as it's an old spring scale that's seen better days. I'm gonna crank out another bow just to be safe. I still have a couple nice staves laying around and working under the gun is my specialty. Worst case I can send one I've been working on that I had planned on keeping. That one's just about finished and hasn't given me as much misery as that rock elm has. It's a yew heartwood flat bow with 4 layers of sinew. It's drawing about 60# @ 26". I can tweak it a little to hit my guys specs I'm sure.
Once I make a final decision as to which path I'm going to take I'll get some more eye candy posted for you guys to check out. Stay tuned...
On a lighter note, if the rock elm is in fact drawing as light as the scale says I have a niece who's been asking for a bow from her uncle Mike. So at least it will get a good home.
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Sinew, silk thread, strong upholstery thread. Coat wrap with super glue.
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Went back out again to fill the crack. I didn't realize how much I thinned it down trying to get rid out the tearout.
Is that going to hurt anything? It was a smooth taper. Not anymore.
Seems like everytime I get one to where I think it's doing good, something like this happens. Too thin, cracked, too thin on a crack, etc, etc.
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160727_160911_zpstogpud3e.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160727_160911_zpstogpud3e.jpg.html)
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Thats probably not going to work. Could probably salvage a light weight bow out of it.
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Some more update pics:
After the glue set on the handle, I used this farrier's rasp to get the shape roughed out.
(http://i.imgur.com/bTPVstm.jpg)
Man... this rasp... how did I live without it! The wife was kind enough to let us stop at a certain traditional archery shop in Rochester as we were traveling between her relatives in NE Iowa and my brother in St. Paul. I wanted to get more, but I restrained myself to picking up this rasp. I won't name the shop since they're not a sponsor, but if you Google search it, you'll find it. If any of you live in NE Iowa, SW Wisconsin, or SE Minnesota (or if you're heading to the Twin Cities and have time to spare, Rochester is an hour to the south), you should check them out! They have all sorts of neat trad gear.
Anyways, I then got to taking the squeezed out epoxy and blue tape off of the bamboo. Just as a heads up, the tape does not easily lift off the thicker sections of epoxy. I used a Dremel with a small sanding drum to get the epoxy paper thin, then it peels off with the tape, leaving the bamboo intact. You probably could use a file to do it by hand (especially if you're concerned with hitting the bamboo with the chuck section of the Dremel), but the Dremel made it pretty quick and easy.
(http://i.imgur.com/eSMWX6Y.jpg)
Here's where she stands now:
(http://i.imgur.com/KfaM4EW.jpg)
I'm going to thin the profile ever so slightly (it's plenty stiff where it is now at 1.5" out of the fades) to the 1 3/8 range, then add the tip overlays, then I suppose start tillering her.
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Evening all,
got a long string on the holly D-bow; it fights and twists like crazy when I try to draw it so I am giving it multiple dry heat treatments to take out the twist in the limbs and get the string alignment sorted, hopefully that will civilize the draw . The bow is at target weight at 1" draw so the bow is about 40# over-weight! Apart from go slow, any advice on reducing that much weight? :D
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Ty...thats lookin sweet. I love my ferriers rasp...but for flattening a limb my shinto is quite nice.
Mud...not sure on hollys properties....id say just keeping thinning it down on the belly side. If i remember right you didnt have a ton of width to work with.
David....im sure somebody can get you a stave. All mine are pretty green otherwise i would help u out.
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Ty...thats lookin sweet. I love my ferriers rasp...but for flattening a limb my shinto is quite nice.
I have one of those, too. ;D And I use it on limbs as well. It was just a little lacking in the "taking lots of wood off of a big chunk" department!
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David how wide and thick is that limb at the area you thinned it down. It doesn't take a lot of iron wood to make a good strong bow
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About 1 1/8", Gutshot.
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Nothing like a ferriers rasp for some angry wood removal! >:D
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Ty, I live about 40 miles east of Rochester. I end up in Rochester a lot for work meetings. I always seem to end up at the place you are talking about after the meeting gets over. I can usually find something I need there.
Mike
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(http://i.imgur.com/HeVdi0d.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/d39bPiW.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/ld1BrZM.jpg?1)
Heres a low brace and a little tug....im tempted to flip the top tip a little. There is definately a lot more string tension and the tip may bend further into the draw cycle. It did do that originally. I may stretch the draw out a little further and see if it stays stiff. I will surely get my draw weight and hopefully a little added performance! ;)
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David, I might have a year old elm stave I could send you -- it would have some small knots and swirly grain -- not unusual for elm, but it's fairly forgiving stuff. Reflexed pretty good. Might be a challenge, but I think it would make a good bow. Or a black birch or red maple board for a board bow. Much easier to work with. I'd guess that the red maple would be the easiest. The black birch needs a pretty thinly tillered limb. The red maple would be thicker and easier to tiller. These would both be clear wood.
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I have a few good ash and hickory boards, but shipping 6' boards isn't exactly cheap. I just had a squirrel chew through a bunch of my van's wire harnesses, so any extra cash is kinda spoken for at the moment. I actually read online that honda's wire insulating material is soy based. Apparently, it actually tastes good to rodents. So much for eco-friendly being better for everyone. Now I have to kill all the squirrels and my van is broken.
Stupid tree rats. At least those busy tails make good paint brushes.
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I have a few good ash and hickory boards, but shipping 6' boards isn't exactly cheap. I just had a squirrel chew through a bunch of my van's wire harnesses, so any extra cash is kinda spoken for at the moment. I actually read online that honda's wire insulating material is soy based. Apparently, it actually tastes good to rodents. So much for eco-friendly being better for everyone. Now I have to kill all the squirrels and my van is broken.
Stupid tree rats. At least those busy tails make good paint brushes.
Funny you say that...
My dad's in pest control. A lady called about 2 weeks ago, saying that something was chewing the wiring in her car. She read the same thing. Hers was a lexus, but I guess they use the same stuff. The Lexus maintenance shop put some sort of "rodent repellent" tape on all of the wires.
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Plan B, I think I figured out what I'm going to do. If it ends up not working out, I may shoot you a PM.
Thanks.
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Took Turtles bow out for 30 mins of opportunistic bow fishing. This carp sure didn't like it ;D
Jason
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How thick David. 11/8 wide half way down the limb then taper it the last half to 1/2 tips should make a good bow if your 1/2 thick. Maybe 3/8. If the weight is under say 5-8 lbs then you can shorten the bow 1" on each limb to gain some weight back
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I'm glad your getting some use out of it.
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Thats awesome CBG that u have already drawn some blood with your trade bow. I could shoot rabbits all day long in my backyard...but they are practically tame....they will literally let me mow the lawn around them!
I cant imagine how great it would be if my recipitant drew some blood with the stick im sending him!
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How thick David. 11/8 wide half way down the limb then taper it the last half to 1/2 tips should make a good bow if your 1/2 thick. Maybe 3/8. If the weight is under say 5-8 lbs then you can shorten the bow 1" on each limb to gain some weight back
1+
You may have enough still to pull it off. Just have to change the design some.
Poor fishie >:D
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I'm thinking my bow is going out tomorrow, if I can make it to the post office before they close at noon.
Tattoo Dave
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Hi everyone,
Here is my fallback bow, hazelnut 65" ntn, I think I've more or less finished roughing down and it is moving a few inches at target weight. Any thoughts on the shape before I start tillering properly?
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/image9.jpeg)
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Shape looks good to me mud!
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Shape looks good to me mud!
Me too!
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Yep, looks like a great start Mud
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Thanks guys, should come together quite quickly. Biggest concern is that the weight will be at the bottom end of my guys specs as, according to Del, my target weight will be at the upper limit for hazelnut, hence the bow being so wide.
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My submission is going in the mail this morning. Hope my target enjoys it.
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Stuck, I don't know much about hazelnut, but aesthetically speaking, that one has a nice shape.
Looks like a couple more bows are shipping, so I'm keeping my eyes peeled... and hoping!
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Thanks All, spent a few hours on the two bows today, they should both now go to brace but I am having fun trying to make a stringer as I can't step-through either of them! Anyone made a stringer??
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They are very easy. Just a length of 550 cord and a couple of pieces of leather. I'll post some pics of mine as soon as I go out to the building.
Ok here is mine. I cut a long piece of 550 cord and a 4-5" piece of leather and punched a hole through both pieces of leather and fed the 550 through the holes on each side and tied the ends off. Works pretty good. You find how to's online. That's what did anyway. There may be a better way of doing it put I like it.
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Package on the way ad of 10am this morning, expected delivery of Monday or Tuesday, priority mail. Sure do hope myou target likes it. There is a letter taped to the tube in an envelope, my contact info is in the letter.
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Package on the way ad of 10am this morning, expected delivery of Monday or Tuesday, priority mail. Sure do hope myou target likes it. There is a letter taped to the tube in an envelope, my contact info is in the letter.
Ok Sidmand I'll keep my eye out for the package. >:D
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Thanks Timothy, that looks nice and simple, will give it a go :) :)
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Update on my plan D. Tips are carpathian elm burl and padauk.
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Nice tips Timmy...when should I be expecting the finished product?!
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Nice tips Timmy...when should I be expecting the finished product?!
Going to get on it full throttle tonight. I'll be on nights through August so will get some work done
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Right now I'm not at home, and I won't be for a few days.... But I have a couple of questions about the bow I have half way done.
I want to wrap the handle area in leather. It probably doesn't need it, but I want to add some thing to an otherwise plain bow. Where do you guys buy pieces of leather for that? What about the string to sew it together?
What kind paint/pen/etc do you use to draw animals and designs on the back? Again, I want to put a few designs on it to get rid of the "plain-ness".
What kind of finish do you put over the designs/art? Tru oil?
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I get my leather from Tandy Leather in San Antone. They have a bin that is smaller pieces than the large good hides and I get it pretty cheap. I get my lace, thread, needles and artificial sinew there also. I put spray poly under and over the writing.
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Hobby Lobby has all of the above buddy....leather...leather lacing...and all sorts of pens!! I use the paint pens to do a lot of design work.
(http://i.imgur.com/mopRMAU.jpg?1)
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I'll check that place out, Slim. Thanks.
Never thought about hobby lobby....
That's beautiful, Ajooter! I wasn't going to do anything that fancy, not even sure I can. Haha
Which paint pens do you like using? Do you know what size tips they are?
Thanks
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I get mine from the hobby lobby as well. They have leather scraps for a resonable price
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(http://i.imgur.com/Cq8GeLW.jpg?1)
I made weight...2# or so heavy here. But....I had drawn it to this drawlength several times....this was the last time I drew it for the picture....and....tick!
I cant find anything when looking the bow over. I'll look again tomorrow...if I can't find anything I'll shoot it and see what happens.
I don't really have a backup so this will be a big letdown...
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Ajooter, that is some serious nice work. Hope the bow is OK. That would be a bummer to have a problem at this point.
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David if you know of a place in your area that re-upholsters furniture, you can often get scraps from them for cheap or sometimes free depending on how much you want. Granted it helps to have done business with them before but not a necessity.
I scrounge leather pieces from various sources. I cut it out of old backpacks, belts, gun holsters, furniture, sal val jackets and used welding aprons. Every once in a while you can find a good sale on new welding aprons at a discount tool store that I won't mention by name but most folks are familiar with.
Next year you should try to tan a deer hide. They are pretty easy to obtain during the season. I did my first this last winter. It's a lot of work, but worth it I would say. The more parts of the animal I put to use, the more peace I can find from having taken it's life, which is not something I take lightly.
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(http://i.imgur.com/916wiDH.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/m1nRaXb.jpg?1)
Put about 50 arrows thru her with no ticks or explosions for that matter. Disregard the safety glasses...I'm a woose! :laugh:
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Ajooter, top limb looks darn good. The bottom limb could use a little scraping on the last 8" or so. Is that a stiff or bendy handle?
Tattoo Dave
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Well I didn't see the braced pic. You got a bit of wiggle/ character in that area? If so I'm thinking that full draw will work.
Tattoo Dave
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That bottom limb has been a thorn in my side Dave. I noticed that area myself....I may give it some extra sanding while finishing.
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Looks real nice. I'd expect the bottom to appear stiff, just look at that un -braced pic. Every once in a blue moon you will get that mystery tick in a bow. Sometimes its nothing and other times it is something. Sounds like the latter for you.
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The string settling into the nock can make a "tic" sometimes.
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I was totally thinking that too DC >:D
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I think you nailed it ajooter, is that hickory?- Hammertime
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(http://i.imgur.com/Lk4Jfpw.jpg?1)
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Like a is good Ajooter. I'd be proud to own it!
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Ajooter that hickory looks really nice. You done a good job bringing that lower limb around compared to what it was
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I re-applied that steel wool vinegar dye and it doesn't look as good as it did the first time....I may add a little black tea to up my tannin content see if I can get a darker color to match the belly toasting marks.
I'm hoping to have her all dressed up and shipped by the end of the week!!
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Thanks for all the support guys..this has been a fun time and have learned quite a bit from observing all these build alongs!
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(http://i.imgur.com/K8npLdj.jpg?1)
That bloodwood is some vibrant stuff when ya put a little laquer to it! I get her coated and letter....AGAIN....I'll put the wraps back on.
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I like it ajooter!
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Sweet looking bow ajooter, whoever receives that ought to love it.
I was thinking the same as DC on that tick you heard, I've had that sting settling tick sound scare the crap out of me on a few occasions.
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Well, it's been longer than I like, but I finally got the bow to the dimensions I want to start tillering at. I also got the tip overlays glued on and roughed out. I'm using a wood called katalox. It pretty dense stuff, so I think it'll do fine as an overlay.
(http://i.imgur.com/Gn4zrIM.jpg)
Here's how she looks on the tree with the long string on:
(http://i.imgur.com/0QKr6GY.jpg)
And here's how everything is looking after pulling one inch:
(http://i.imgur.com/znVE7XG.jpg)
The plan is to exercise the limbs with 30 pulls for every inch of draw weight. If there are any adjustments I need to make in the limb, I won't pull any further. I'll scrape the stiff spots, exercise another 30 times, and check to make sure everything is bending nicely before pulling to the next inch of draw length. I'm also lining up the bow so that the pulley is pulling on the string about where I think the middle of the middle finger will be on the string. I am aiming for equal timing for the limbs.
That's it for now! Ajooter, that handle is looking mighty fine!
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Hi All, those bows are looking lovely!
so I made a stringer out of 5.5mm braided poly rope (supposed to be 100# breaking strain) and it snapped putting the D-bow into a low brace ! no wonder I can't step through it >:D Anyway, lost a bit of patience and got out the rasp and took off 1mm all along the length. It's now moving 7 or 8 inches before it reaches target weight on the long string, one limb still a bit stiff though. No pictures as daughter's I-pad died same day as the stringer snapped (not a great afternoon) and I will have to find the camera and get some batteries.....
Will putting on a short string make it easier or harder to draw the bow? I don't usually use a long string as I prefer to go straight from floor tiller to short string and this is by far the heaviest bow I have made.
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Mud...installing a shorter string will make the bow heavier to draw. You will be preloading the limbs more then you would with a long string.
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Thanks Ajooter,
thought that might be the case but was really hoping someone would tell me the opposite! Am gonna make a 24 strand continuous loop 18/3 linen stringer - if its good enough for a war-bow short string it should do for a stringer.
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Ty I like that profile of that tri lam
Stuck +1 what ajooter said. Leave it on the long string till you get those limbs balanced out.
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Thanks, Gut! I like it, too.
I'll be posting some pics as soon as I'm done with some errands for tillering advice.
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Your well on your way to a winner, Ty.
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Trying to finish up bow #3. I'm thinking some more scraping inner 1/3 of the left and outer 1/3 of the right. What's your opinion. I've got 10#'s to play with. Sorry for the focus.
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The center 12-14" on the right is dead flat. Left could move more about 10" from the tips.
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somebody has a tube on their front porch - I hope that somebody likes what's in it.
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In addition to what Pearlie said, it looks like the right limb is bending more out of the fades than the left, but the large flat spot on the right limb is what I'd go after first.
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Got the limbs balanced, just found a post from Del in a thread on English warbows about using a ring to shorten a long string while tillering (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,57658.0.html) - looks perfect for my D-bow - will have to drill out a ring when I make the stringer; should make life a lot more straightforward. :)
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(http://i.imgur.com/0QKr6GY.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wl0I1GN.jpg)
Here's where it sits at 9 inches (top pic is resting for reference purposes... no wood has been removed yet). The left limb (the lower limb) isn't bending the same as the right. When I draw the bow, it looks like the right limb is "opening" more at midlimb (if that makes sense). If I were to guess, this would mean the left limb is stiffer at the outer limb. Input is welcome. ;)
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Update I have put on four coats of finish on my Trade bow, I'm using Tru oil ... After my third coat I wrote on the limb the name of my victim and specs then put on a fourth coat... I'll lightly steel wool out any runs ...how many coats do I need to put on ? Input
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ty...those bows always look weird at brace to me. The limbs are essentially straight at brace height and it just doesn't look right to me....to angular. But when drawn they come around nicely.
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160801_190057329_zpsigixympn.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160801_190057329_zpsigixympn.jpg.html)
Here's a few photos of my Trade bow
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160801_190008755_zps2h7vedvf.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160801_190008755_zps2h7vedvf.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160801_190025012_HDR_zpsi7mngz2b.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160801_190025012_HDR_zpsi7mngz2b.jpg.html)
This is hanging in Turtles moisture box
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160801_190032850_zpsw0hrcbld.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160801_190032850_zpsw0hrcbld.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160801_190107148_HDR_zpsmlyfad37.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160801_190107148_HDR_zpsmlyfad37.jpg.html)
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Nice shine to her Otter....love the way those growth rings feather out of the handle.
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Hmm......... I might just have to go put a lock on that box. >:D
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Thank you ajooter, I'm not really good at finishing... Seems like I start nib picking ever little flaw that I feel is there and then usely do something stupid lol but not this time other than bad runs which I can lightly steel wool out its going to be as it is.....
Turtle I bet there are some stave's being eyed in that box... Hope they don't come up missing lol ... But thanks for letting me use it.
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Got my trade bow done... Hope my "victim" likes it.
>:D
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_105939_zpsgqnvli66.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160730_105939_zpsgqnvli66.jpg.html)
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Send it my way! We'll have some stone chips on those arrows in no time and be shoot chipmunks with it! ;D
Tattoo Dave
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Lol David... You don't have to give away your Christmas gifts ...he he ... That was funny
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We can kill those varmints and shoot the flys
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Nice work there David. What's the draw weight??? Someone will be happy but not sure who ;-)
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Finish is looking great Otter! Hard to beat osage with tru-oil.
David - looks like that is starting to hinge dead center to me. >:D
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Good one David!! Your guys not going to know what to do with all that fire power.
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Did some scraping right midlimb and can still afford another 5# thru finishing to meet my guys high end. Seems to me to need the outer 1/3 scraped a little more.
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My wife just texted me a photo of a long PVC tube that showed up at my front door today!
Now I have to sit at work the rest of the day wondering what it might contain.... this is going to be the longest day ever.... maybe I should go home early. If I can't get my mind off something at home, does that count as being sick?
Michael
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Fred....At least the outer third...probably the inner third a little bit as well. Left limb looks $$.
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Michael, you don't sound good .... Bud you sure your feeling ok? You might better took the rest of the day off and relax in your back yard ... It will get feeling better so you don't miss anymore work this week..... Lol I bet that PVC pipe has some wood
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I got it! I did have to leave work a little early today :)
Sidmand's osage turned up on my porch... apparently yesterday and I didn't know it :( My wife had checked the mail yesterday while driving in, mail was in the box but she didn't see the tube on the porch... and I didn't see it either as I got in late. She let me know today that she found it on the porch, and it seemed earlier than normal for the mail to have run... it could have been there yesterday... and then later the mail came.
Anyway, the bow is great! I will post some pics, but to refresh your minds, this is the one with the yellow & red diamond pattern on the back. I went out and shot for as long as I could tolerate the mosquitoes, and this bow shoots great. The draw is really smooth, no hand shock at all, and it flings an arrow pretty quick. I am really enjoying shooting this guy.
I think it is pretty neat that I built for Sidmand and he built for me! If I remember correctly, Sidmand said this was his first trade bow, first self bow, first osage, and first sinew backed. I am still an amateur, but from my eyes, it is hard to believe that this is a first... Great job Sidmand!
Loope
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Managed to do a little tillering today. I think she's ready for a shorter string, but I know I'm going to have to reduce the weight on the bow. It's pulling 45# @ 16". Right now the fades are at 1 3/8", straight for 6", then taper to 1/2" at the tips. Would taking the fades to 1 1/4" leave me enough wood for my goal (55# @ 29)? That's the dimension I was initially planning on, but I wanted to make sure I had enough wood to make my weight goal (and I really don't want to have a really thin osage belly!).
(http://i.imgur.com/6HyW3Uk.png)
So, I want to wait on hooking a shorter string on the bow until I decide to thin the profile (besides... stringing the bow right now is a PITA... it's gotta be around 70ish# @ 28...).
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I got it! I did have to leave work a little early today :)
Sidmand's osage turned up on my porch... apparently yesterday and I didn't know it :( My wife had checked the mail yesterday while driving in, mail was in the box but she didn't see the tube on the porch... and I didn't see it either as I got in late. She let me know today that she found it on the porch, and it seemed earlier than normal for the mail to have run... it could have been there yesterday... and then later the mail came.
Anyway, the bow is great! I will post some pics, but to refresh your minds, this is the one with the yellow & red diamond pattern on the back. I went out and shot for as long as I could tolerate the mosquitoes, and this bow shoots great. The draw is really smooth, no hand shock at all, and it flings an arrow pretty quick. I am really enjoying shooting this guy.
I think it is pretty neat that I built for Sidmand and he built for me! If I remember correctly, Sidmand said this was his first trade bow, first self bow, first osage, and first sinew backed. I am still an amateur, but from my eyes, it is hard to believe that this is a first... Great job Sidmand!
Loope
I can't wait to see more pics of that bow Loope! The teaser pics Sidmand posted were great.
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Thank goodness! Tracking said it got there yesterday and I was freaking out thinking it went to the wrong place. Yes, lots of firsts on that bow, and I'm glad you like it. I hope you have less humidity there and the bow will pick up some more weight, it was right at your lower number when I sent it. I was praying that it worked out, I can't draw it to 30 inches cause I am vertically challenged, but I drew it out on the tree for as much exercise as I could give it.
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Ty, when I tiller, I track the unbraced profile, and if a spot takes any set, I try to stay away from it. To me it looks like the right fade is bending more than the rest of that bow, but it is hard to tell for me with that profile. Try with a string that is just long enough to reach both nocks. For width, you have to balance how much Osage you have left with any set it is taking. Others will be able to give better advice, but I would bet you could safely narrow that bow some, but I would do it slowly, just like belly tillering
BTW I am writing from the beach in Oregon.
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Congrats Loope...thats one heck of a bow!
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Jeff, I see what you're saying about the right fade. I really haven't done much to that limb, as I thought it was bending fine. The left limb was also considerably stiffer, so that's where my attention has been focused. I will start scraping the outer 2/3rds of the right limb to make it bend more to take some stress off of that fade. And I'll do this before I narrow anything, as I'm sure I'll need to take wood off of the left limb to even it out. I'll try to post an unbraced pic of the bow as well.
And I'm totally not jealous that you're on the beach now...
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OK, 1st pic is unbraced before tillering, 2nd pic is how it looks as of 3 minutes ago:
(http://i.imgur.com/0QKr6GY.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/1gNBLJu.jpg)
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Lookin good ty.
Got the wraps back on...lettering tomorrow night hopefully!
(http://i.imgur.com/63lEzr0.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/L2m0ylm.jpg?1)
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I think I'm ready to ship ;D
I prettied her up a little but not much I hope my victim likes it :)
I'm also I little overweight at 52# but I'd rather not mess with it anymore :P
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/BC0483F8-CD64-415C-B9A8-681D991CCE40.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/BC0483F8-CD64-415C-B9A8-681D991CCE40.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/CFEC60C4-65D6-4973-AD98-3EFFEBEDC4A1.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/CFEC60C4-65D6-4973-AD98-3EFFEBEDC4A1.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/DE5319CC-0FEB-40BF-B4EC-C34A12DF5701.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/DE5319CC-0FEB-40BF-B4EC-C34A12DF5701.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/7FF4F8D1-30AB-471B-B33B-6D309BB99EBC.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/7FF4F8D1-30AB-471B-B33B-6D309BB99EBC.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/8EAEA72B-A20E-40A0-B94B-8BE6EED5F8AC.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/8EAEA72B-A20E-40A0-B94B-8BE6EED5F8AC.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/FA3DE98C-3762-4EDC-A83E-D1DD81D7D69B.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/FA3DE98C-3762-4EDC-A83E-D1DD81D7D69B.jpg.html)
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/CDFB3B83-FF76-4F95-B2E8-FBCA8F5A6FFD.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/CDFB3B83-FF76-4F95-B2E8-FBCA8F5A6FFD.jpg.html)
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Ty- I think your trilam is looking good. If the right fade is bending more, it is not by much - hard to tell sometimes by pictures. The mid limbs are bending now and straightening out the limbs at your current draw so be careful not to over work those areas. It looks to me like the tips are moving 8" or so, I would try to get to a low brace and see what it looks like. At least to a string that just fits as already suggested. I am liking it. Oh, and when you do start working in the fade area be careful at the transition from riser to limb, it is easy to develop a weak spot in the limb just past that fade. I usually scrape from limb into fade rather than fade into limb when I work those areas.
Congrats Loope - that is a nice bow. Well done Sid.
ajooter and dylan - either one of you could send me one of those bows and I would be happy!
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Great looking bows guy's!
Dylan, are you drawing that bow with the string between your middle fingers?
Patrick
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Ty- I think your trilam is looking good. If the right fade is bending more, it is not by much - hard to tell sometimes by pictures. The mid limbs are bending now and straightening out the limbs at your current draw so be careful not to over work those areas. It looks to me like the tips are moving 8" or so, I would try to get to a low brace and see what it looks like. At least to a string that just fits as already suggested. I am liking it. Oh, and when you do start working in the fade area be careful at the transition from riser to limb, it is easy to develop a weak spot in the limb just past that fade. I usually scrape from limb into fade rather than fade into limb when I work those areas.
Well, I'll wait until tomorrow afternoon before doing anything else to the bow in the hopes more people chime in. I was thinking about this as I was trying to get to sleep, but I think you're right that the right fade isn't hinging or anything like that. I think, if anything, the midlimb on the right limb is a hair stiff compared to how the left limb is bending (the right limb is forming more of a straight line while the left limb has a gentle curve). I know some of the more intense r/d bows will look like a triangle at full draw, but I think this design is supposed to have more of a "D" shape, so straight limbs are not my goal.
Unless I hear otherwise, I think I will 1) gently scrape the midlimb on the right limb in order to get more of a curve going (which will also relieve some of the pressure on the fade), 2) give the left limb some scrapes in general if I need to reduce the strength of that limb to match the right limb while maintaining its current shape, 3) get it to a short brace, 4) see how she bends at short brace. If it would be better to get it to short brace 1st then do everything else, I wouldn't be opposed. I know you want to get to brace height well before getting to your draw length, but at this point, I'm really liking the unstrung profile of the bow and I want to do everything in my power to keep it from taking on more set (I see it's taken a wee bit of set... nothing to cry over, yet). I know with a slightly longer draw length it will be a challenge, but I think it's worth trying to preserve!
And thanks for the tip about scraping near the fades! I know that it's easier to address slightly stiff fades towards the end of the tillering process and that hingey fades on a r/d bow is especially bad. When I scrape in general, I start at the part of the bow that's closer to the tip and scrape towards the handle, but I'll bear in mind to be especially careful to do that when it comes to dressing the areas next to the fades.
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One last pic!
This is the bow with the string tight against the belly and handle (I tried my best to get the thing to sit level on the tillering tree... didn't do so well in that department!):
(http://i.imgur.com/lehOKgE.jpg)
Ajooter, the back side of your handle section is looking wicked!
Dylan, there's nothing wrong with a nicely bending stick. Even if it's just the osage, horn tips, and leather grip, it's still a good looker! And as far as it being a little over weight, there's nothing wrong with a few extra pounds!!
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Fantastic looking bows getting finished up. Looks like some tubes will be in the mail shortly.
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Dang Dylan that is sharp. Go ahead and send her my way. I don't mind a few extra pounds. Lol!
Ty that trilam is looking nice!
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Ty I would get it to low brace, get the string just off the handle. That way the tips are getting pulled inward and downward, you will get a better reading. Looks good so far.
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Sounds good, Pearl!
So... I feel a little sheepish asking this, but I'll ask away, as it annoyed the heck out of me. I actually tried to get it to a shorter brace yesterday, but my timber hitch kept slipping. >:( I tried waxing the snot out of the string, but that didn't help. I really haven't had this problem before, but this is the heaviest bow I've tried to make and I'm thinking the r/d design isn't doing me favors in this department.
Any suggestions?
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Run the end of your hitch through the loop at least three times....maybe four.
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Yep timber hitch can be a pain when tillering. That and B50 stretches like crazy. Over the last few years, I have just made a bunch of D97 flemish twist strings of various lengths that I can use when I am tillering. Most of my bows are 62-66" so it really isn't that many strings. Don't have to fight tying knots anymore.
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Run the end of your hitch through the loop at least three times....maybe four.
+1 on the multiple looping idea. I have even resorted to using a "set knot" at the end of my string that I tie in to keep the timber hitch from slipping out as easily.
OneBow
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Sounds good, Pearl!
So... I feel a little sheepish asking this, but I'll ask away, as it annoyed the heck out of me. I actually tried to get it to a shorter brace yesterday, but my timber hitch kept slipping. >:( I tried waxing the snot out of the string, but that didn't help. I really haven't had this problem before, but this is the heaviest bow I've tried to make and I'm thinking the r/d design isn't doing me favors in this department.
Any suggestions?
I used a tillering string two or three times and ditched it years ago. I just keep 4 or 5 strings on a nail. One will fit any bow at any stage I'm at. I don't have time or the patience to piss around in my shop. I want to do things once and move along.
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Yea I also like to have a string that will give it a very low brace right off of a floor tiller . Then as I tiller I twist the string up as I go.
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Sounds good, Pearl!
So... I feel a little sheepish asking this, but I'll ask away, as it annoyed the heck out of me. I actually tried to get it to a shorter brace yesterday, but my timber hitch kept slipping. >:( I tried waxing the snot out of the string, but that didn't help. I really haven't had this problem before, but this is the heaviest bow I've tried to make and I'm thinking the r/d design isn't doing me favors in this department.
Any suggestions?
I used a tillering string two or three times and ditched it years ago. I just keep 4 or 5 strings on a nail. One will fit any bow at any stage I'm at. I don't have time or the patience to piss around in my shop. I want to do things once and move along.
I just added another time through the knot and solved my Timber hitch issue. Over, over, under, under, under.
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Thanks for all the suggestions! The string I'm using is from 3rivers that I thought was a FF string, so it's not stretching as so much as it's the timber hitch not holding. I'll try to add extra loops to the knot, but I could use the extra practice in making strings, so I wouldn't be opposed to making a Flemish twist D97 string that will get me to a 3" brace on this bow.
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Well... it was starting to be an awesome day... I got off of work early, I got the mail and there in the box are my paycheck for playing in Oklahoma along with my ND rifle and ML tags, and I'm super excited to get the bow on a shorter string. I decided to try the adding extra loops in the timber hitch before going the making a new string route... as I got the string to the length I wanted, I pulled on the stringer, got the string into the groove, and gently let the tension off of of the stringer... Then I heard a crack and the string got tight on the handle. I was thinking it the knot just made an extra noise as it cinched up too much...
...
(http://i.imgur.com/Py3zRcL.jpg?1)
Next time, I'm definitely making a shorter string. I think what happened was as the hitch cinched, it was thicker since I added the extra loops. The thicker looped section was too big for the grove I filed, so it essentially split the tip.
So... is this salvageable? I don't know if I want to continue on this one for the trade...
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BUMMER Ty........sorry to see that.
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Ty, that's a shame. I find fault with the tip overlay design. I also believe it can be saved.
That tip overlay should have been attached over all three lams instead of cut through.
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what was rhe overlay made of?
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Looking closely, your tip overlay where the string groove was cut, was only supported by the belly lam.
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Yeah, I saw that too, Fred. My other tip did cut into the core and I was debating about redoing the tip that broke. Now I have to redo it!
But, no sense in crying over spilt milk! I can try to fill it with epoxy and clamp the beck out of it. The tips were stiff because of the flipping I did anyway, so maybe that will do the trick. If the thing still breaks, I have something else up my sleeve. >:D
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Dylan, are you drawing that bow with the string between your middle fingers?
i believe that is a shadow from the string falling in between his index and middle finger.
even so, still curious as to what's happening between the thumb and index.
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I would say hes drawing it with his thumb fellas! 8)
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Ha good catch ;D I'm using a Manchu style thumb ring I carved from some Osage.
Infact I used it to get my trade bow shot in, I had a deep cut on my finger tip that split open( and hurt like hell) the first time I shot split finger. So I dug this out of my desk drawer.
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-08/FAD46B62-7102-4E5B-AD05-7AD12B0C430F.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-08/FAD46B62-7102-4E5B-AD05-7AD12B0C430F.jpg.html)
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(http://i.imgur.com/fEly9Q8.jpg?1)
Threw some epoxy in the crack after sanding off the tip overlay. I made sure it got in deep. Then clamped it and hoping for the best...
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^^ neat thumb ring. i've never seen that style before.
I would say hes drawing it with his thumb fellas! 8)
i knew it was with his thumb, it just threw me off seeing the tip of his thumb sticking past his index finger.
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Thats pretty cool. I've seen a few different release devices for traditional shooting. The backyard bower on YouTube makes a couple.
I think your tip will be fine ty. Just get a piece of horn on it for overlays. And make sure your string groove is moved back a touch.
Patrick
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I think your tip will be fine ty. Just get a piece of horn on it for overlays. And make sure your string groove is moved back a touch.
Patrick
I agree.
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Thought I would post some pics that show some of the details of the bow I got from Sidmand. The top limb has some nice curve in it. I have started going with small tips on the last few bows I made, so I really like these minimalist tips on this one. The handle wrap is really comfortable... Sidmand, how did you pad the handle... is it cork underneath the wrap? It is a great shooter and I am happy to have it! My bow building started with longer bows, and I have been going shorter and shorter. This one is the shortest I have so far, and I am really starting to like these shorter bows... Thanks Sidmand!
Ty, glad to see you are working on a repair, that one is going to be nice!
Loope
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Yeah, I do have some cow horn. I think I'll redo both tips with a layer of cow horn and then placing some wood on top of the horn (and I won't file through the horn).
I'll definitely move the nocks as well. Maybe make it a 67" ttt.
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Super glad you like it. It's cork, with pigskin suede over it, and leather suede lace over that. That top limb gave me fits the whole time, and the bottom tried to test me to, but I whooped it into shape.
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Ok I need y'alls opinion. I've been working on plan D Hickory 69" long 1 3/8" @ fades. Pyramid style
I've got it braced and its pulling 40#@23". It's got about 1 3/4" string follow and I haven't tempered the belly yet. I should say that hickory is my nemesis so should I scrap it or would tempering help any?
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Is that a board or a stave Tim? That's a little narrow for hickory at the fades...I would go with at least 1.75" to 2".
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It's a board. It is narrower than I had thought. I'm thinking of putting some cherry bark on the back.
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That's not only narrow at the fades, it's narrow all the way if you did a pyramid. My opinion, if doing a pyramid using hickory, I would have been closer to 2 inches at the fades. 1 3/8 is bodark country and even then I wouldn't do a pyramid at that width. Undoubtedly where your set is coming from.
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I'm digging your bend tho Tim..right limb might have a whisker of a flat spot in the first third of the limb.
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Also believe it's too narrow. The further you draw it the more set it is going to take.
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Just a quick update:
The epoxy looks like it's going to work! I gently floor tillered that limb (being mindful that there's no tip overlay) and it seems to be holding up. So, my plan is to knock off the other overlay, dock the tips by 1/2", and throw these puppies on the tips:
(http://i.imgur.com/MamQX2h.jpg)
Then I need to quick whip up a string and continue on my merry way.
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Tim, if my tone seemed a bit rough it was not intended. Yes the bend looks good and you did some good work in some ways. Any mistake you made believe me, I have made. Some of this bow building is just a matter of finding out what won't work, and not doing it on the next one. Keep at it.
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Thatel du, ty!
Patrick
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i got my bow shipped out today, so whoever hasn't got one yet keep a eye out ;)
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Oh good, another nice bow shipped!
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I can't wait till it shows up!!! >:D >:D
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Tim, if my tone seemed a bit rough it was not intended. Yes the bend looks good and you did some good work in some ways. Any mistake you made believe me, I have made. Some of this bow building is just a matter of finding out what won't work, and not doing it on the next one. Keep at it.
No offense taken Slimbob. I'm going to keep at it though till it breaks or it shoots. Luckily I have my trade bow finished and will be shipping soon. I will defeat my nemesis!
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(http://i.imgur.com/Lq2jHCH.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/7SAvIVa.jpg?1)
Now lady should leave the house without a little further on her...slapped a floppy rest on her and shot her a little. I'll put some more finish on her tomorrow and rip a couple more arrows oit of her. I've been shooting her lefty and I'm not doing too bad out to ten yards.
Should be in the mail early next week. 8)
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(http://i.imgur.com/DcOzDhu.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/BGODa4V.jpg?1)
I like these pics better...it's been pretty humid while I finished this bow out. I hope it doesn't pick up too much weight.
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Nice looking bow ajooter. Your entertainment stand is the same one I have.
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Ajooter nice to finally see it is a lefty bow. I thought all along you where building a LH bow. Your Victim will love it and if he doesn't then they can ship it to me. Like that string too.
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Yeah I had some help on the string from a fellow bow trader! ;)....I will probably disclose his identity when I post the bow.
The silencers are beaver balls. I couldn't get out to my buddies places to get some fresh muskrat so beaver will have to work. They sure seem to do the trick...the bow was quiet to begin with now she's really quiet!
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Darn a lefty!
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That bow's looking great, Ajooter!
So, I've made more progress on the bow. Here's a pic of the new tips. This tip is the one that malfunctioned:
(http://i.imgur.com/fjQLrdl.jpg)
Here's how it looks with a tight long string (this is actually a new string that I thought I made short enough, but as it was new, it stretched a wee bit):
(http://i.imgur.com/AfbnPFr.jpg)
After pulling the bow down to 12" and seeing it was bending right after being shortened (and to see if the tip would hold... so far so good!!), I went ahead and got it to a low brace! And after a few twists, here she is at about a 4" brace.
(http://i.imgur.com/GB3QbIa.jpg)
I didn't pull on her, as the limbs aren't even. I wanted to take a look at how the string was looking down the belly...
(http://i.imgur.com/RbSqLyn.jpg)
As you can see, not dead even. I'm pretty sure this is the problem:
(http://i.imgur.com/pIFMHon.jpg)
Even though the profile of the back is looking great, the profile of the belly isn't so even. The right side of this limb doesn't taper like the left. So, I think I'll know the wood on the belly to make it even, then string the bow back up (maybe take a few twists out to have a little lower brace), and see what the profile looks like before starting to bend the bow again.
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Well I have gone over to the dark side and bought a stringer - dunno if the reflex is making life difficult but made 3 stringers (two different types of rubber and 1 of leather) and they all just slide up the limb. Should be able to post some decent pics of the bows at brace mid week. In the mean time have started work decorating both the bows in the hope that tillering should be fairly straight forward. Would be happy to post some pics of the bows on the long string in the mean time??
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Nice ajooter, finished up real nice!-Hammertime
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Ty,
That curve looks good. twists with recurves are always tricky for me. Just remember it twists toward the weak side. I have to look at the belly where the hooks start, rather at the ends of the tips.
Speaking of tips, I would say that your string grooves look a bit steep. When you get it to full brace, if you still have that sharp bend and the sharp edges, the string will wear out fast. If it were me, I would work down those overlays a bit before I tried to string it much.
Overall, I am enjoying watching this--I have never built a laminated bow before, so the details of your build have been fascinating. Keep it up.
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Thanks for the tips, Jeff. Ya, I knew I was cutting the groove deep compared to how the overlays are looking now. I was planning on thinning the tips closer to the end, but I can certainly trim them sooner!
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I would probably keep them wide until you have dealt with the twist, but the transition up the overlay should be smooth, or you risk popping it off when you string it.
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Well, here are some more progress pics! 1st off, here's what the tips look like now:
(http://i.imgur.com/wMZdEgI.jpg)
I still plan on sculpting them a bit more, but the main goal was to address the transition between the limb and the overlay as well as giving it a decent rough sanding in order to knock off the sharp edges.
Here's a before and after picture of the lateral bending of the limbs:
(http://i.imgur.com/cp5gUNd.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/P4dfG0Q.jpg)
I'm not sure how much more I want to go after getting it perfect now or if I should start tillering it again and check it when I get to full brace.
Finally, here's what the short brace looks like after touching the limbs up:
(http://i.imgur.com/7Rl7VK6.jpg)
Again, I'm not sure how dead on it is, but I can tell it looks better from yesterday.
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Fellas,
Thought you would like to see the fine bow I received from Cabinet Bow Guy.....fit and finish speak for themselves (as in very, very nice). The bow draws smooth and shoots very hard. Cant thank you enough sir!!!!
Tried to get some decent pics to do the bow justice.
rich
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last pic
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Looks like you got a good one Rich. Of course all the ones sent so far look like good ones.
Glad to see you posting also. I was gettin worried about you.
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Looks nice Rich. So the the stream in the background! Well done CBG.
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The bow is very finely made and shoots where ya look.....dont get better.
Turtle, thanks bud, no need for worry. Reports of my untimely demise have been greatly exaggerated. I'll be posting other trade and gift bows here shortly. I'm gonna need to do a bunch of reading to catch up.
rich
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;D Welcome back friend and champ. We missed you. Looks like you had a hell of a nice camping time down on that stream and the best part of it was the bow showed up before you left for the camping trip.
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absolutely Mr. Arnold, absolutely
rich
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1st of all welcome back Rich. That is a very nice bow CBG made you. And the pics are very nice.
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Looks great Rich..nicely done CBG!! Glad to see your back buddy!
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Rich, good to have you back. Congrats to you and CBG on the bow. Enjoy!
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You've got a lot of catching up to do Rich. I don't know about the rest of these fellas but I damned sure missed you!!! I noticed when I logged on that paulsemp was even phishing.
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I'm gonna get some pictures taken of the bow for BOM and then send her out. I won't post the pictures until my guy gets his hands on the bow. I'm gonna be working a night shift starting Thursday going on for about 2 weeks so I want to get this bow shipped soon!
(http://i.imgur.com/zaiQaJa.jpg?1)
I like this bend a lot better!
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How bad is it? :)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160808_211513_zpsiptevfr7.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160808_211513_zpsiptevfr7.jpg.html)
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Rich, that is a great looking bow you received. I too am glad to see you posting.
Ajooter, that bend looks real good.
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David, those limbs look pretty even to me. You could get the outer 3rds to come around more if you need them to. Do you need to get anymore draw length out of it? How are you sitting for draw weight right now?
Like I said, I think your limbs have a nice even bend right now. Nice work.
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That pic isn't at full draw, but pretty close.
I am good on draw weight. Heck, I actually need to lower it some. It's about 60lbs. Want around 55.
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What swampman said David...I'll take it at 60#...you don't need to lower it down ;)
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i agree nice bend you have there David ;D
how does the bow look on tool marks? you can easily lose 5lb just in cleaning up file marks and sanding it up.
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i agree nice bend you have there David ;D
how does the bow look on tool marks? you can easily lose 5lb just in cleaning up file marks and sanding it up.
I would start getting rid of tool marks David and see where you are at. Looking good.
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Excellent advise ;D
David you're on your way to becoming what we all desire. Excellent work!! You keep up the fine work young man.
I hope you all realize this is exactly why we're here. Without your help neither David or myself will be able to finish this >:D.
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It is somewhat smooth, but I need to clean it up a bit.
Thanks for the help guys! :)
I hope you all realize this is exactly why we're here. Without your help neither David or myself will be able to finish this >:D.
Hahaha
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David it looks like you are holding it really low on the handle. Your next task is to get the wood silky smooth. Too many people get impatient on the finishing once the tillering is done. the curve looks pretty darn good, and you are doing good work. What you do between now and when you ship is what makes the difference between the real craftsmen on this site and those who just make nice shooting bows. (although there is nothing wrong with that, and some actually prefer the rough/primitive look) For me, this is the time to slow down, get to know every inch and grain in the bow and make something you will be proud of. If it doesn't hurt a little to give it away, you aren't done yet.
Just my opinion.
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David. I think you nailed it man. Looks nice.
Ajooter. That is a sweet looker there!
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Some very nice bows posted here.
I have to say, you guys must be a bit chatty to have this many pages in this thread :)
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Jeff, I am holding it low because I cut a small arrow rest in just above my hand (1.25" above center). Holding it like that doesn't seem to change how it feels.
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David, how far is the arrow rest above your hand in the picture? If you can move your hold up an inch or so I believe it would be better. The way it is your bottom limb is bending more than I'd like to see and by moving your grip up you'll notice a big difference in the tiller. When you hold the bow like a suit case handle in your hand it should balance on the 3 fingers without tipping.
Here's my latest. I'm now at 45@27 which doesn't give me much room for error. I/8" positive tiller.
I'm thinking the outer 1/3's still need some scraping???
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Good to see you back Rich! Sweet bow.
Fred, I would agree on the outer thirds.
Tattoo Dave
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Fred, it is literally right above my hand. I don't know why I cut it there. It's only about 3/8 deep. Is there any way I could fill it in with another piece of wood, and then shape the handle like I want? I'd rather shoot off hand, but I thought this might work.. and it didn't.
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David, I don't think I'd change it now. Keep it the back of your mind for future reference.
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David,
I bet if you put a block of wood on your shelf raising it up some, that the handle wrap might well cover the patch job you are doing and wouldn't be noticeable at all.
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That might work, Jeff.
I will mess with it when I get home.
Thanks
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one key is good gluing surfaces: flatten the spot you want to build up, clamp tight, then sand and file down until you have the shape you like.
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David...if you are going to wrap the grip they sell cork at hobby lobby. Or strips of rawhide glued together. Both can be shaped nicely and conform to round surfaces.
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I went out and got the mail today during my lunch and no package on the porch...I am thinking, well it will come eventually. About 15 minutes later my wife looks out the window and says (I quote)..."now what did you buy?" I looked out (as I was replying that I did not buy anything) and there is a long tube! Yes!!! It is here. I only had ten minutes before I had to go back to work from lunch, so I tore it opened quick (kind of as it was packed very well). Nice pretty yellow wood, beautiful black grip, and gorgeous matching black horn tips! Thank you Dylan!
Pictures and more after I can get out and shoot it - hopefully tomorrow! If you can't wait, Dylan has pics on page 255.
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Congrats mwo..that was a fine looking bow. Can't wait to see more of it! Great job Dylan!!
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yeah! ;D i'm glad it got there safe and i'm happy you like it ;D
i knew it would get there today or tomorrow ;)
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Mitch congrats on getting DH bow he made that is one sweet bend he had going on. Really like those horn knocks
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I just got home and it is too dark to shoot. >:( Will have to wait until tomorrow when I get home. Good news is that I should be home by 4:00 or so with plenty of light left to shoot!
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Got a pice glued in. Hopefully I can smooth it out tomorrow and re do my handle shape.
Ajooter, I thought about that. I have a bunch of extra cork from a decoy making project I did a while back. Might give it a shot.
What do you guys like wrapping handles in? I was thinking leather, but I don't know if it would work on a curvy handle?
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David, one of my favorite handle wraps is hemp cord wrapped around the handle. I then soak tite bond 3 glue over the hemp. It makes a durable, comfortable handle and it looks pretty good too. I also like a nice leather wrap too though.
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David,
I get my leather wet before I stitch it on, and then pull it tight with the stitching. when it dries the leather shrinks tight and conforms to the curves. you have to make sure you have just enough slack in your seam that the drying process doesn't create a gap, but still tight enough that the leather conforms to your curves. It isn't as hard as it sounds, though. I usually make a pattern by wrapping with masking tape--put some paper on the back of the bow first, then wrap with tape and then cut a straight line down the back over the paper and unwrap. That pattern plus about .25" to account for the thickness of the leather usually works about right.
Clear as mud?
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David how wide is your handle right now. If it's fairly wide find the center measure out 1/2" both ways and see if you can take it down to 1" wide. If you can it might take away that shelf you cut into it. I make all my bows with a 1" wide handle that would be the thinnest I would go then if your wanting a shelf build one up out of leather cork wood bone or what ever. I like my shells to be 1" above center of bow but that is just my preference. Good luck
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I'd like to have a thin handle like that, but I don't know if the wood is strong enough?
It's hickory, and 3/4" thick at the handle.
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David, your bend looks pretty good to my eyes. It's a little asymmetrical, but that does not hurt a thing. If it's shooting smooth with no handshock then there's no need to re-engineer your handle. At only 3/4" thick, you stand a really good chance of fixing it beyond repair and having to start over. I wouldn't take that chance this late in the game. You've done quite well so far. I'm impressed. Josh
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Here's an updated list on who I need to see progress reports and full draw pictures from before they will receive a bow:
jandersson, Ryan C, Ranasp, Stuckinthemud,
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uploads on the way.
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Ok here we go with some pics.
I went out and shot my trade bow made for me by Dylan. Shoots very nice. It is a narrow, bend in the handle osage with horn tips. Has a bit of string follow, but shoots very smooth and still hits hard.
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I am loving the yellow color in contrast to the black handle and tips! The bend is sweet (full draw to come when I have someone to take pics). I can tell that Dylan put a lot of time and energy into this bow. It means a lot that someone I have never met would do that! Thank you very much Dylan!
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I am not sure what the horn tips are, but I really like them and Dylan did a nice job getting them on the bow. I have never done tips like this before - but want to give it a try. This bow is going into my collection of "never to get rid of" bows.
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It took a few shots (but only a few) to find the bow's sweet spot. Once I did, these were the next 3 shots from 15 yards. I was wanting to hit the top center spot. Grouped them rather well I thought. Arrows may be a little stiff? As said it shot hard and very smooth.
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I backed up to 18 yards and shot at the 3d target. I think with a little shooting and tinkering with tip weight, I can get these arrows flying where I am looking! I am going on an early season doe hunt first weekend in September with my brothers and cousin. Believe this bow will make the trip! Will post full draw once my wife gets home to take the pic. Thanks again Dylan!
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Now that's how ya post a trade bow MWO!! Hell of a job on that bent stick Dylan.
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How much string follow is acceptable?
The bow I'm building has quite a bit of it. Drawing it back, everything thing feels fine though... Doesn't seem like it's thay "spongey" (which is what I've heard lots of follow will do)
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David, how much string follow? And what's your scale telling you at the current draw length?
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you shoot it better than i could :o ;D i'm really glad you like it :)
the horn is water buffalo horn from the pet store. not really a economical way of buying it, you'll pay $10-$15 for a 8oz piece or horn but if your just doing one project or just want to try it out its not bad really.
this was my first time doing english style horn nocks by the way >:D ''Del the Cat'' has a video on youtube showing how he does them and that's the one i found to be the most helpfull.
also i would be absolutely stoked if you take game with a bow i made ;D just make sure you post a pic no matter how big or small it is ;D
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Congratulations Mitch, fantastic job Dylan, and thank you both for being a part of this trade.
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Welp, this is full draw.
I fixed the arrow rest, glued a piece of walnut in there. Gives it some nice contrast. Too bad it will be covered with leather.
What do you guys think?
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/Mobile%20Uploads/20160810_211905_zpsthkfvz9g.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160810_211905_zpsthkfvz9g.jpg.html)
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My daughter volunteered to take a couple of pics...last ones I promise >:D
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David, looking great.
Mitch, we never get tired seeing full draw pics.
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Congratulations Mitch, fantastic job Dylan, and thank you both for being a part of this trade.
Fred - it has been my pleasure! Thank you for getting it started.
David - I think it is bending rather nicely.
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https://imgur.com/X4rjirx
On my phone at work so not so sure how it's going to upload. The tips were recurved a bit. Other than that it's a simplistic type of bow. Not really anything close to what is on here on this page. Hope my recipient likes it.
https://imgur.com/3D7GDRO
Deer lace handle with some crudely drawn native art
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Congrats Mitch and DHM. That's a fine looking bow. It will make meat the way Mitch is shooting.
David pretty that bow up and mail it I think you have a good looking bend right there. If your victim doesn't like it I will take it. And that's no joke. You have hit some rocky roads in this trade and to be the youngest guy in it I've enjoyed watching your talents grow.
Kid Bow also another great looking bow to say the least. Nice bend. Your victim gets the same option as David's. Just ship it on over to south central Ky. I would be proud to own it as well.
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Congrats Mitch and DHM. That's a fine looking bow. It will make meat the way Mitch is shooting.
David pretty that bow up and mail it I think you have a good looking bend right there. If your victim doesn't like it I will take it. And that's no joke. You have hit some rocky roads in this trade and to be the youngest guy in it I've enjoyed watching your talents grow.
Kid Bow also another great looking bow to say the least. Nice bend. Your victim gets the same option as David's. Just ship it on over to south central Ky. I would be proud to own it as well.
Thank you gutshot. I appreciate it. I'm sorry for not participating a lot. 3rd shift takes a toll.
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Kid Bow, very nice bend in that one. I'd day you're ready to ship.
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David - Kid Bow - both tiller looking good. Nice work guys!
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Nice work fellas! David and kid bow, the bend looks good.
Tattoo Dave
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the horn is water buffalo horn from the pet store. not really a economical way of buying it, you'll pay $10-$15 for a 8oz piece or horn but if your just doing one project or just want to try it out its not bad really.
this was my first time doing english style horn nocks by the way >:D ''Del the Cat'' has a video on youtube showing how he does them and that's the one i found to be the most helpfull.
I got my my horn from a stick-makers supplier:£14 for four horn-tips including postage. Should make 8 nocks out of them. Thanks for the heads-up on Del's 'how-to' - when looking for it I found the excellent written post on his blog instead, wish I'd seen it about 4 bows ago !
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Thanks guys.
Now I can make it look good! :D
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Looks like things are winding down. I think I know everyone's status but if you are ready or have already shipped and haven't received a bow yet please let me know.
It seems like more people should have rec'd bows than what I have listed on my record sheet.
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I think your bend looks great David!! You have come a long way through this trade...I'm sure we will see more from you in the future.
I ripped a couple arrows through my trade bow and took some final pictures of her. Gonna try and get it packaged up tonight and shipped tomorrow!
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It'd be awesome to see like a big compilation in one thread of all these bows made if that hasn't been suggested yet....
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It'd be awesome to see like a big compilation in one thread of all these bows made if that hasn't been suggested yet....
Good Idea!
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(http://i.imgur.com/xJz2aDR.jpg?1)
Well...she's all packaged up...I know the bow will arrive safe and sound...but my guy may not be happy with me when he is trying to open the tube. The caps are not glued on...just pressure fitted and taped so don't try cutting them off!!
I cant believe I'm finally shipping this bow!
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It'd be awesome to see like a big compilation in one thread of all these bows made if that hasn't been suggested yet....
I think so too. Maybe after the trade Fred can get everybody on the same page with a date to post and we can get it done.
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It'd be awesome to see like a big compilation in one thread of all these bows made if that hasn't been suggested yet....
I think so too. Maybe after the trade Fred can get everybody on the same page with a date to post and we can get it done.
Sounds like a great idea to me. A place to see all the bows without going through 280 pages.
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;D We wouldn't have so many pages if you guys didn't gab so much :laugh:
Now for a little humble honesty: We couldn't have done it without you!!!
I'll get the compilations posted in a different thread as soon as next week and then you guys can post away.
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Quick update:
After finding out my first couple trade bows were more under weight than I had hoped(even on my new scale), I have two black locust bows a little past halfway finished. The one had a fair amount of natural reflex in the stave and is looking like it may be a real shooter. It's limbs are relatively thin already and it's still way heavy on the draw weight. I'm gonna get back to shaving wood and hopefully I'll have something worth taking a picture of in a day or two. This ones gonna have a fair amount of stored energy at brace. I always seem to push deadlines, even when I try hard not to.
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Well my stringer STILL hasn't arrived ! So, pictures on a long string:: first the D-Bow - haven't finished shaping the horn nocks so fitting them is the next job
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3635-e1470991576644.jpg)
carving underway:
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3629-e1470991240953.jpg)
primitive bow currently showing 1/2 inch set:
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3625-e1470991060287.jpg)
patterned xylem took about 3 hours.........
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3627-e1470991150441.jpg)
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Stuck those carvings are pretty darn cool. Are they on the belly or back. I'm sure there on the handle
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I got a real bad mental block on back and belly - belly faces the target? So, the carving is the handle on the back and sides - the part in contact with the shooter's hand-palm.
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Bow is in the mail...scheduled delivery...monday
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I got a real bad mental block on back and belly - belly faces the target? So, the carving is the handle on the back and sides - the part in contact with the shooter's hand-palm.
Stuck, the back faces the target, the belly faces the shooter.
Mike
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Look at your own body. Your belly compresses and your back expands. You cant go the other way too far without something breaking. Same mental picture with your bow.
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Thanks Slimbob, that makes a lot of sense, that's a visualisation I can deal with :-)
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Cool carving stuck. You have a pic of the bow at full draw? Maybe I missed it, but in that draw pic it looks like mid limb out could bend more.
Tattoo Dave
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Which bow Dave? Nocks shaped and glued to D-bow, drying overnight - used cascamite thickened with charcoal to colour-match the horn. Stringer finally arrived so will be able to brace the bows and post some proper photos soon :-)
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Evening All.
Here's my stand-in bow, on the upper limit for my guys draw-weight, hollow-limb hazel primitive. Hows it looking? Not sure if the right hand fade is working a bit hard and maybe the limbs are too stiff in the outer 1/3?? ???Can't get to full draw until I build a tree and pulley
3/4 draw
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3636-e1471036274471.jpg)
brace
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3637-e1471036358939.jpg)
string follow after un-stringing
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3638-e1471036480750.jpg)
profile
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3639-e1471036150538.jpg)
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Couple of observations and questions...was the stave straight before you started bending it, or has it taken this set? It appears to me to be all in or near the handle. Make sure it's not bending in the fades as it appears to me that it is. If not carry on. If so you may have an issue.
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Not fully straight but straighter than this. By tomorrow it'll be back to being nearly straight - the picture was taken immediately after un-stringing but it did have a few degrees of prop. twist. To me it also looks like the fades are working but the hollow limb makes things look worse than they are. Having said all that, I can lose 10# and still be good for weight so reducing the outer thirds might be a good idea.
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If it is taking that kind of set near the handle and your not at full draw yet, you have an issue in my opinion. If it's bending in the fades and taking set there, you have a design issue. The recovery you have from the set is nice to see but almost irrelevant from a practical stand point. Not here to rain on your parade, that's just what I see.
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I'd say you for sure need to get those mid and outer limbs working more. But like slim bob said there may be an issue. How old is that stave, has it been drying for a short time? Don't give up on it yet though.
Tattoo Dave
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Forgot to mention, my bow is all boxed up along with a few arrows to go with. It's going to the post office in the morning for sure!
Tattoo Dave
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Well, it's been a super crazy work week, but now I have a 3 day weekend! So here's how the bow stands now: I know some people have said it's a little tough to judge how a r/d bow is bending by still pictures, so here's a quick little video of how she's bending (you'll have to forgive the wobbles of the video... no tripod = fun times!). Also, the bow is being drawn to 14" and it's at 35 lbs.
https://youtu.be/7R7M0kSBpIA
Here are some pics as well. Namely, how she looks at the short brace and when unstrung after bracing.
(http://i.imgur.com/v2kQkzp.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/t8jTe0x.jpg)
I really hope to get this thing bending to full draw soon, but I want to wait for input.
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David, man I am impressed with your persistence and it has paid off. That is looking very nice! good job mister.
Stuck-I agree that it looks to bend too much in the fades. How flat was it before you started tillering?
Ty-Not much to say. I think you are on top of things buddy. Get that beauty bending is what I say.
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The bow was already curved before I started, the actual set is about an inch. I have softened up the outer thirds and the bend is really sweet, careful examination showed that the fades are actually not moving, the hollow limb flaring out from the fade is creating a bit of an optical illusion when combined with the camo back hiding the true outer curve. Wil post a photo when I get some time
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Glad to hear that. That is why I asked about it's original profile. Often only the maker knows how much set a bow has taken. An inch ain't bad, just watch it closely as you go forward.
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Ty,
I have watched your video multiple times looking for a spot that was bending more than the others, and it looks even to me. if anything, the mid limbs might still be stiff, but not much. Keep at it, scrape, bend, look, then bend some more.
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Jeff and DuBois,
Thanks for the input! I'll get to bending the bow later today. I'm helping some buddies hang tree stands right now. But, when it comes to scraping to reduce weight, I'll take a couple extra scrapes on the mid limbs.
I'll probably post again when I get to the point when I think the bow will be ready for its final string (unless any unforseen troubles happen...).
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Ty - Looks like it is bending pretty good. Agree with Jeff that the mid will need to bend more, but go slowly. Roy Painter (Roy from Pa) has several videos of trilams being drawn on the tree as he is tillering them if you want to watch some to compare.
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Ty - Looks like it is bending pretty good. Agree with Jeff that the mid will need to bend more, but go slowly. Roy Painter (Roy from Pa) has several videos of trilams being drawn on the tree as he is tillering them if you want to watch some to compare.
I'll certainly check that out!
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I finished up on my trade bow and planning to mail it Monday... So what do you think ? Look ok to you all.
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190013567_zpsg8hv6wgk.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190013567_zpsg8hv6wgk.jpg.html)
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190023600_zpsp7fvwfbc.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190023600_zpsp7fvwfbc.jpg.html)
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190207672_zps7ggdcrdt.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190207672_zps7ggdcrdt.jpg.html)
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190138855_zpsa8awq9q2.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190138855_zpsa8awq9q2.jpg.html)
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190133694_zps20yu1oft.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190133694_zps20yu1oft.jpg.html)
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190429155_zpsxhsckqxt.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190429155_zpsxhsckqxt.jpg.html)
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190615621_zpsauino2jc.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190615621_zpsauino2jc.jpg.html)
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_192317002_zpsl1zt1rkn.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_192317002_zpsl1zt1rkn.jpg.html)
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Otter, that looks beautiful!!! In my eyes I always prefer a slightly stiffer lower limb section and time generally has proven to me on my bows to be right. I like it.
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Yeah it looks "ok"...if by ok you mean awesome!! I hope Fred didn't mess my address up when he gave it to ya...that's all I'm gonna say!
I gotta try some of those faux skins...you really made em pop.
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Thank you Fred and ajooter... Yes I liked the way the skins came out... Thanks to Gun Doc and Turtle for telling me and helping me with great advice on how to apply them.... This was my first bow trade and I had alot of fun doing it... Thanks to all of you on here and the encouragement you give. Now I just need to package it up and send it out.... Hopefully I'll get mine soon as well ...can't wait!
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Good job otter. I'm sure Ajooter will love it if that's the address you was given By Fred. Lol. I'm sure who ever gets that bow will be proud!
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Very nice looking bow Otter - well done. Someone is going to be happy!
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Good looking bow, Otter!
I got the stain put on to my bow, just waiting for it to dry... Let it sit out in the humid shop and it stayed tacky all night. Hopefully bringing it in the house will make it dry.
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Quick update - 40# at 20" draw, think halfway down the left limb is just a little stiff?
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3642-e1471170736801.jpg)
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Mud....right limb looks pretty good...left limb looks stiff from the fade at least halfway out...maybe a little further. I wouldn't pull it any farther until you get that limb bending out towards the tips instead of at the fade.
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Thanks Ajooter, will scrape some more, its still overweight and I haven't heat treated it yet but I am happy that at least one of the bows is probably gonna make it!
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I have another one for you guys to check out. And I'd love some advice on it.
Right now it's at full brace and pulling 35#@24" and I'm going to go to 31" for safety. I have not heated the belly and it's not taking much set at all. It's got some twist in one limb but I think it'll be ok. How much weight do you guys think it will pick up once at 31"? I think I heard that it's 5# per inch of draw is that correct? any way I don't want to take much more weight off so I think I'm going to heat the belly a bit and maybe flip those tips too. I will be putting a belly skin on I got from Cip. Thanks for looking and please give all the advice you can.
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5# per inch ?! That puts me 25# over......
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Usually 2 to 3 pounds per inch.so at 3# an inch that would put you at 56# @ 31".
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You guys think a belly skin would add some back protection? There's a few flaws. Seems to soot good with smooth draw.
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Tim...right limb is stiff from the fade out to midlimb. Looks pretty darn good though.
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OK back to the D-bow. Thoughts?
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3644-e1471188675576.jpg)
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looks like your outers need to bend more
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Outer 2/3 of the left limb looks stiff. Right has a nice even bend just get them even and continue tillering from the outside in.
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I agree with ajooter, looking good though, keep up the good work!
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thanks Otter, I am facing the possibility of having to choose between the two - a heavy primitive at the top of my guys's spec, or, a middle-weight D at the bottom of his range..........
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Ty - Looks like it is bending pretty good. Agree with Jeff that the mid will need to bend more, but go slowly. Roy Painter (Roy from Pa) has several videos of trilams being drawn on the tree as he is tillering them if you want to watch some to compare.
Mitch, I am curious--I haven't been able to find those videos. Can you help me find them?
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PM sent Jeff.
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So, here's where I stopped for the day. I think it's coming along well, but input is always welcome.
Here's how the bow looks at a 6" brace after getting it to bend to 19":
(http://i.imgur.com/DGhLvy6.jpg)
Here she is bending to 19":
(http://i.imgur.com/5UEA7iY.jpg)
Here's the unbraced picture:
(http://i.imgur.com/GPMAncK.jpg)
And here's a 15 second video (attempt) of me exercising the bow:
https://youtu.be/Ie9DI8dfNRc
Hopefully I'll be able to get it finished tillering soon!
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Looking great ty_in_ND... Keep up the good work
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Man that's pretty!
s it a tiny bit stiff just past the right fade to mid limb and maybe a tiny bit just past where the string is hanging on the limb in the unbraced pic?
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I agree with DuBois. It is pretty good, so all comments are fine tuning at this point. I also see a stiff spot right above the thermometer on the left side. On the video it looks like you are pulling to 40#. If that is your goal, great. But if you are going for a heavier draw weight, you need to start pulling closer to that or you risk missing your target. You are even enough to pull closer to your target, I think.
The limbs are also coming around enough that a tillering gizmo could help for all but the firs 6 and the last 6", I would say.
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Well, it's good to hear it's all down to fine tuning! So, my goal weight is not 40. The plan was after checking in with you guys, if everything was looking good, I would pull it until I got close to the goal weight (55ish lb @ 29"), then start scraping to reduce weight. I think there's still plenty of osage on the bow that I don't need to worry about messing with the side profile. If you go by the every 2 inches is 5 lbs of weight, I should be hitting 55lbs when I get to around 25"-26". Now, I know that doesn't leave a ton of room for error, but I will be careful for sure when it comes to taking off the slightest amount of wood on the stiff spots. And thanks for bringing up the gizmo, Jeff! I never thought of using it for this style of bow, but I think you're right that it is bending in a way that would make sense to use one.
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ty that is coming along nicely....I know what u mean about being careful with wood removal. Sometimes I switch to a 32 grit sanding block when it's getting tight.
By the by.....somebody should have a package today. ;)
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I can't mail intill tomorrow... Had to do something's today so I'll mail tomorrow... Can't wait to get home and see if I got any mail lol
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This piece of Osage was my plan C but I didn't think it was going to make a bow for my guys stars but when I got to looking at it it was pretty much ready for full brace. When I braced it I just had to scrap its few times and it turns out it's going to be closer to his stats than the other Osage I was going to send. I'm glad I didn't send it yet because it's really nice. I finished putting the belly skin on last night. Going to let it dry a few days and make sure the tiller is good and pretty it up.
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I loves me some belly scales!!
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Looking good Ty
Ajooter somebody is gonna enjoy shooting that this evening
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Man that looks sweet Timothy..... Can't wait to see a full draw picture... Keep up the good work.
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Thanks ajooter and otter. I hope my guy likes it. I'll post a full draw as soon as I get it close.
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I'm wondering if my guy should let the bow sit for a day or two before shooting it. It was crazy humid here when I packaged her up. What do u guys think?
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Depends how breathable the packaging is - card and paper I would think the bow would be OK; bubble-wrap might be a different matter
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It's in a pic tube wrapped in bubble wrap.....so maybe he should give it a day or two.
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Somebody should be getting a bow from me either today or tomorrow. ;)
Tattoo Dave
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Hows it looking now? Weight is getting marginal but not heat treated yet - so should be there or there about. Picture is at 22" draw. Wonder if the tips are still a little stiff?
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3646-e1471284112555.jpg)
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Your mid limbs are stiff.
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Your mid limbs are stiff.
Agreed....was this a stiff handled or bendy bow?
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Well, I can make a few more adjustments if need be, as I ended a little over weight (I think 58# @ 29"), but here's how the bow stands now (I think if anything, that 1st 1/3rd of the right limb is still stiff, so if I adjust anything, it will be that limb):
Braced
(http://i.imgur.com/6vp7oPV.jpg?1)
Bow @ 29"
(http://i.imgur.com/G8JpZdQ.jpg)
Unbraced
(http://i.imgur.com/PxXbFHA.jpg)
And here are some teasers of the handle section (sanded picture followed by cleaned off and wetted with denatured alcohol):
(http://i.imgur.com/wEtdLQ7.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/3uIgYyT.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/jIN3oJQ.jpg?1) (http://i.imgur.com/mB6kWaF.jpg)
Well, on to go shape the tips, then to make a string for her, then fling some arrows (maybe)!
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Id hit the first 10-12" off the fades. They are stiff and that makes the mids work too hard. Id say your going to need about 3-5# of weigh to correct that. Left alone and it will pull reflex out as time passes.
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Guess who had a package waiting on me when I got home .... ME. .
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160815_143013553_zpszfgmepqe.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160815_143013553_zpszfgmepqe.jpg.html)
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160815_143042669_zpsb6ltwei8.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160815_143042669_zpsb6ltwei8.jpg.html)
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160815_143104558_zps7uz7jhes.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160815_143104558_zps7uz7jhes.jpg.html)
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160815_143155475_zpstdt4owtm.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160815_143155475_zpstdt4owtm.jpg.html)
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160815_143116556_zpsdgwelatp.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160815_143116556_zpsdgwelatp.jpg.html)
Wow what a awesome character bow... Plus it was my first bendy handle bow.. shoots Awesome to, I'll get some pictures of full draw later today and post... Well done Tattoo Dave fine job .. and thanks for the arrows to they shoot great.
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Congrats Otter!
Lookin forward to the pics.
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Your mid limbs are stiff.
Agreed....was this a stiff handled or bendy bow?
Was hoping for a compass bend, the handle is moving, but only at full draw
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I guess my package is ready for pickup at the post office....they didn't deliver it!!!
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Stuck...for me, I want the bend near perfect before I get the handle moving. Near perfect each limb, and near perfect in symmetry. Then I loosen the handle just enough to feel it. Your over stressing the limbs just outside the fades, or so it appears to me. Your close, but I would get that fixed before anything.
EDIT. I said fades and you have none, but just outside the handle would be more precise.
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Ty, that grain looks really nice. I would echo what PD said, especially on the right limb in the picture.
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Sorry Slimbob, do you mean the limbs at that point are not moving enough?
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You have a spot just outside the handle on both limbs that appear to be working to hard. Take a 4 inch straight edge and run it along the belly. Look at the gap behind the straight edge. It will show no gap along the handle, then it will show the gap opening up outside the handle before closing up again mid limb. Where the gap is the widest is where it's bending too much. Get the gap even from just after the handle to just before the nocks. You can work on the handle once the gap on the limbs is even.
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(http://i.imgur.com/G8JpZdQ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/qcfThqL.jpg)
I'm not sure I'll be able to do much more than this today, but the top pic is the 1st 29" draw pic I posted and the bottom is after I scraped the spots Pearl Drums suggested to scrape. The bow is lighter now (I double checked before scraping and it was at 59, now it's at 56), but if it ends up a wee below 55, I won't cry too much over it.
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Thanks Slimbob, will do
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Ty it still looks a little stiff here compared to the other limb and just out side that mark on the right looks a little weak scraping in the marks should fix both .. but thats just my 2 cents take it for what its worth.. please others chime in..
Jason
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Otter, glad you like it! I've been hanging on to that bow for what seemed like forever. I'm very happy to see it go home! Shot a lot of arrows through it to make sure it was good. I'm glad I could get you your first bendy! I love a bendy handle bow. And of course I had to put a little artwork on it. Enjoy it sir.
Tattoo Dave.
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Stuck....as an example to follow.
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Cabinet,
Yeah, that's what I was thinking, too. I'll post more tomorrow!
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Otter, glad you like it! I've been hanging on to that bow for what seemed like forever. I'm very happy to see it go home! Shot a lot of arrows through it to make sure it was good. I'm glad I could get you your first bendy! I love a bendy handle bow. And of course I had to put a little artwork on it. Enjoy it sir.
Tattoo Dave.
Yes I loved your art work to can't wait to get a good day and sling some arrows here soon I hope
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Okay guys. I have tiller burn out after 6 hours or so. Opinions please?
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The more I look at it, I think I should try to make the right limb match that little bit of a natural recurve tip in the left limb. Something tells me that will make it easier on me.
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I would agree with that. Looking good. Sweet shape to it. I think when you do that you will need to get the left limb loosened up some.
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I think the right limb is bending more than the left, maybe just a hair too much near the fade. I'd say maybe get the left bending a little more to match the right. I could be wrong though.
Tattoo Dave
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I think the right limb is bending more than the left, maybe just a hair too much near the fade. I'd say maybe get the left bending a little more to match the right. I could be wrong though.
Tattoo Dave
I agree with tattoo Dave. Get that left limb bending a little more near the fade.
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10-4 thanks guys. I'll post more pics tomorrow after I recurve that tip and to a little shaving.
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OK. The D-bow is, most likely, going to miss my guy's spec by a couple of pounds. Its going to be a lovely bow and I prefer it to the hollow-limb hazel bow. I think I need to finish them both and then choose, but that will delay dispatch by a week. What do you guys think?
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Wouldn't bother me any to be off a few pounds, or be a week late.
Tattoo Dave
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Ok I just mailed my Trade bow ... It should arrive on Thursday.... Hope my victim likes it !
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Just an update to the guys here. Been in the suck working double shifts from midnight to like 4pm and it's been on repeat. Should be out by the end of this week and I'll expedite it to my victim over night or on two day. Hope all is well.
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It's fairly apparent that everyone has given it their all at this point. I can't see anyone getting that bent out of shape having to wait another week or two.
Actually I'll be visiting family that lives in my victim's home town so I may wait and drop it off in person Labor day weekend or at least "ding dong dash" after dropping it on the porch. Certainly better than a flaming bag of of dog poo. It's kind of a neat coincidence that will save me some shipping $$.
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OK, so ran a straight edge: now draws comfortably to 26" . Looking at the photo I drew the bow at an angle and have stressed the limbs unequally. Will edit it when I get a chance to re-take the photo. In the meantime, how's it looking?
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3652-e1471371135461.jpg)
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I like that shape DK. It wont take much to catch that left fade up, maybe 10-15 scrapes. If your weight is close, Id shoot it 20-25 times and see what it looks like. Nice bow so far.
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Stuck that looks nice.
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That...looks sweet. I think you are just about there now.
Maybe a tad tight in the left fade, but could be the shadows.
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Not sure this photo is any better but if you guys are happy that's fine with me cos I am struggling to see anything that won't tidy up when I take out the tool marks :D This one is 24" draw
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf36551-e1471374008310.jpg)
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Just a quick question, how close to perfect do you go smoothing off all the tool marks before you do a final heat treatment?
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Looking way better stuck....bring it outside in the sunlight and look it over....I usually put on a coat of teak oil right after the heat treating process because at that point it will really soak in to the cell structure of the wood...just a thought-Hammertime
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I came home to my wife complaining about having to carry a long tube in her car from the post office....my heart started racing....yup I am the proud owner of an ajooter bow! and yes it looks AWESOME!!!!!! Thanks so much for all your hard work it looks very well done and I can't wait to string her up and fling some arrows....pics will being coming shortly she sure is a beauty- Hammertime
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Congrats Hammer! That is a nice bow. Looking forward to pics!
DK & Stuck - bows are coming along and looking very good! Way to go guys!
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Stuck, that bow looks great. Just out of curiosity, why would you heat treat it? Heat treating can effect the tiller. Are you taking it past the 24" draw?
Congrats hammer! That was a sweet bow, let's see sme more pic!
Tattoo Dave
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I would heat treat it. May change things a tad but you should firm it up a bit tempering it.
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Glad you like it Hammer!!! Do me a favor and check the draw weight when you get a chance just for my piece of mind. I think that bow has the potential to gain some weight over time as well.
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Andrew, tiller is looking good. Looks like you're getting real close to your guys draw and specs. I wouldn't heat treat it unless needed.
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OK light was fading fast and no one around for good pics but here are a couple teasers(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/5ad13ca6-6e63-4f5e-a8f1-5e0524ccf346_zpsuovbbj7h.jpg) (http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/jeffreyakolste/media/5ad13ca6-6e63-4f5e-a8f1-5e0524ccf346_zpsuovbbj7h.jpg.html)
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Those were my first shots this bow shoots great! quiet as a church mouse and smooth as butter! Beautiful antler tips red dyed onback and awesome handle inlays....Thanks again ajooter-Hammertime(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd464/jeffreyakolste/650630de-f163-4b9b-837d-348a5bfda92d_zpsysy4fp9v.jpg) (http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/jeffreyakolste/media/650630de-f163-4b9b-837d-348a5bfda92d_zpsysy4fp9v.jpg.html)
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Your welcome Jeff...I'm glad it shoots for ya!
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Congrats Hammertime. That is a great looking bow you got there and it looks like a great shooter. Another great bow received in this great trade.
Ajooter, you made a great bow.
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Got my tiller issues fixed up, didn't take much. It feels like it could still use some breaking in, but I'm at the high end of my guys weight right now 65#. It could just be the extra reflex I'm not that used to. The limbs are half the thickness of my plan A rock elm but twice the draw weight. :D
I shot a few arrows at 3/4 draw and it's a frikin beast. I'll work the limbs for a couple hours then I'm gonna start putting the makeup on her. I like the decorations I did on the rock elm, so I'll probably just copy them unless some unforeseen inspiration hits. I'll post a few pics when she's ready for the ball.
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I've been tied up for several days and just logged on and had quite a few pages to go through to catch up. This has been fun, and even though I have already given and received, I am still enjoying watching the progress. There are some nice bows still being made!
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Thanks guys....this was a great time and quite the learning experience as well. I've enjoyed seeing all these gorgeous bows being made.
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Hammer your a lucky man to receive Ajooters bow. I really like that burning on the raw hide.
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At the moment I am 5# under-weight. Have also found from one of the warbow guys that holly improves in speed with heating, so a gentle toast should improve performance and put the bow right in the middle of my target weight. Hope to dispatch Monday.
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I put the finish on my bow yesterday. Once it's good and cured I'll finish this dude up! :)
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I agree Stuck.
David, can't wait to see t.
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Someone is getting a package today
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Checked the tracking number and it said my package was delivered to the front door ,porch at my Victim's house... Who could it be ?
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Hammer, you lucky dog!!
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You are correct otter. It was delivered, opened and strung up. I didn't have time to shoot it yet. I was only home for about 15 minutes and left. I'll shoot it later tonight and try and get a few pics if I get home before dark.
It is one sweet piece of Osage! Some fine work there Otter! The fabric skins look great too. Pulls nice and smooth. I can't thank you enough sir! I love it!
Thanks bud!
Tattoo Dave
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Glad you like it... It was my first bow trade and I know you like bendy handle but I've never made one yet
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That was one fine looking bow Dave...I asked my gf to check the doorstep earlier today for a package. Nicely done Otter.
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Thanks ajooter... It was fun and a first time bow trade ... First skin backing but Turtle gave me alot of advice
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I am a big fan of bendy bows, but that's a beauty. It'll fling plenty of arrows, and it will see some time in the woods. I've had everyone of my trade bows I received in the woods hunting. This one will be there in October! Thanks again!
Dave
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Hope it draws some blood
O
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First shot with arrows I made for a different bow. I think it'll draw blood if given the chance! ;D little too dark for a full draw pic.
Tattoo Dave
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For got the pic. Oops!
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Shooting ok I hope ... You gave me such a range of specs that I didn't know what your true draw length was... Hoping it was around the 27" plus I left the hand wrap loose in case you wanted to add a arrow rest.. I didn't know if you shoot off hand or rest.
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Talked to Turtle and he told me that maybe tomorrow or Saturday we might be heading to a tree d shooting range... I'll be shooting my bendy handle bow from Tattoo Dave !
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In case I didn't tell you Dave the overlays are flowering dogwood and the string is fast flight
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I've got my bow almost done, I'm just trying to figurebout the handle.
I have leather to wrap it, but I have a question....
I am not putting an arrow rest on it, which is why I have this question. How do you know where to put your hand? As in, everytime I set the bow down, I am moving my hand. Is there some sort of marker I can use to mark where my hand should be, or??
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Oh, and I put about 30 arrows downrange yesterday. It shot great! I don't have any other bows to compare it too, but the hand shock seemed really low and it wasn't very loud.
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David what I did was nocked a arrow and held the bow to where the arrow is being shot off the hand .. I then took and marked above my index finger Ind that is where the top of my wrap is
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I like that idea, but I really want to wrap the whole handle.... I just think it looks better.
Could I glue a small piece of wood/leather on to the handle where the top of my hand should be, and then rap leather over it? It would make a small bump right where my hand should stop. Sort of like the mark you are talking about, but it is under the leather.
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I may just do it like you said....
I'll experiment with some stuff and post back what I end of doing.
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I like that idea, but I really want to wrap the whole handle.... I just think it looks better.
Could I glue a small piece of wood/leather on to the handle where the top of my hand should be, and then rap leather over it? It would make a small bump right where my hand should stop. Sort of like the mark you are talking about, but it is under the leather.
Yes here's how I did mine
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190023600_zpsp7fvwfbc.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190023600_zpsp7fvwfbc.jpg.html)
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The piece i glued on I sanded down thin and glued it on with barge cement
Hope this helps
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That doesn't look bad at all! I may just do that. Thanks Otter.
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One more question.... haha.
What are you sewing /stiching the leather together with?
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Doubled together black dextrin bow string
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y465/ebennett40/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190013567_zpsg8hv6wgk.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/ebennett40/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160813_190013567_zpsg8hv6wgk.jpg.html)
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I used a leather puncher with smallest hole maker to get my holes ... I folded my leather in half and punched holes
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Awesome. Thanks for help man!
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Any time... I know I need it all the time myself
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Yeah Dave, I like the idea of wrapping something around the bow to make a ridge/bump under the leather. Anything should work good for that, a string, a leather thong, wet some small rattan and wrap it etc.
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Well, here it is. Not the prettiest, but it seems to shoot pretty good. I really like it, and I hope my victim does too.
Full draw pic sucks. I had to set the camera on a wall, which is why it's looking up at the bow/me.
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/799_zpsyqu4yn2s.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/799_zpsyqu4yn2s.jpg.html)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/800_zps0mdflali.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/800_zps0mdflali.jpg.html)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/801_zpszl7bypos.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/801_zpszl7bypos.jpg.html)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/803_zpskwqlqsl4.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/803_zpskwqlqsl4.jpg.html)
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get a wooden golf tee and cut it/sand it in half. Nice little rest and it's already shaped for the most part!
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There is NOTHING....I mean NOTHING wrong with that bow David! Well done man!!
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Well done David... You should be proud of that bow... Alot of work and heart went into it and it's beautiful
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8) ;D Wishing it was mine!!! Congratulations on your diligence and hard work with your trade bow. And thank all of you for the continued help and support that you've given to make this trade a success.
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Good work David! I like it!
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Thanks guys.
Now... How on earth do I ship it?
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Get a 3" PVC pipe cut to length + 4" and 2 ea PVC caps. Glue a cap on one end and stuff packing to fill the bottom. Wrap the bow with clear plastic or bubble wrap and reinforce both tips with added protection. Place it in the tube and then add extra packing to the top end before putting on the top cap. Then instead of gluing the top cap just fit it tight and wrap the end with packing or duct tape to hold it in place.
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Do I just take that to the post office, and they'll weigh it and ship it?
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Do I just take that to the post office, and they'll weigh it and ship it?
Yep....post office is the cheapest way to ship.
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The PVC pipe you get if I was you is a thin wall one David
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That is EXACTLY how I shipped mine!!
what Fred said that is...
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if you can keep the overall length under 6' it will save you some money on shipping ;)
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The postal service oversize measurement is anything over 84" by adding length + girth.
Example: 68" tube + girth ( a 4"w and 4" h box would be an additional 16" in girth)
68 +16 equals 84".
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Is that method good for international shipment - I was going to use a carpet roll cardboard tube?
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I don't know if it is a problem, but, when heat-treating I also straightened out a left-right curve in one limb. Put a half-dozen shots through it and the curve is back - the string track is about 1/3" off centre at the arrow-pass but on good-side for the archer.
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Stuck I think either way would be good for shipping.
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That's a great looking bow David. I'd be proud to have it. Great work!
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Nice job, David. I'm glad you persevered and you ended up with a fine bow to show for it. It was enjoyable watching you meet the challenge.
I got my nock overlays glued on and the cloth backing applied. Arrow pass goes on tonight and the belly scale stain tomorrow. She's still drawing heavy and I may need to shave her down a bit still before the belly staining.
It was a bit of a busy weekend or I'd probably be on tru oil coats by now. Had a class reunion Saturday and a family reunion today. I loaded up a dozen of my bows, 3 times as many arrows, and a few targets and hauled them to the park for the family to enjoy. It was windy and the lake was pretty rough which meant no boating or swimming this year so the archery was a big hit. I think getting to shoot was one of the highlights of the reunion for a lot of the family. I was happy to provide the experience, but 6 hours of instruction and demonstration felt a lot like work even if it was way more fun.
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Nice job David, that bend looks great! I am sure your recipient would be pleased.
I shipped just like the other guys mentioned... 3inch PVC (thin walled PVC... it is much lighter), glue one cap on, padding in the bottom, wrap the bow and slide it in, add more padding and tape on the top cap. I think I paid around $10 to get a 10foot stick of 3" PVC and the caps. Shipping in US was about $13 at the post office.
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I'm finally sending mine off today. Work has slowed.
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So what's the status on the trade overall? From my seat, it appeared to go well. Anybody still need to ship? I'm just curious.
Tattoo Dave
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I still need to ship mine. I have the pipe and caps, just haven't had time to package it. Might get it done tomorrow.
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Ok, I lied. The bow is now packaged.
If you all see something on the news like "Man brings suspicious tube into Oklahoma post office".
Its probably us... This thing looks like a giant pipe bomb.
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Here's the list I have of bows not received yet:
ajooter, David Ewing, dylanholderman, Fred Arnold, janderson, kid bow, pincushion, Ryan C, stuckinthemud, Timothy R, Tower, ty-in-ND, Ranasp
Bows done and just shipped or ready to ship:
David Ewing, Dakota Kid, Drewster, Fred Arnold, hammertime, kid bow, Timothy R,
Stuckinthemud, ty-in-ND, have been showing progress and posting.
The remainder are not staying in contact and haven't given us a clue. That leaves about 5 long shots we're counting on.
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Sorry I haven't been on here lately guys lots of bass fishing and school starting up and I got my license. Finally got a bow to come along. Little light but shoots fast. Just got some skins glued down.(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm165/jreefer454/38CA0F8C-6C96-4E09-8723-E0F8A7E86D77_zpssjy9gjmu.jpg) (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/jreefer454/media/38CA0F8C-6C96-4E09-8723-E0F8A7E86D77_zpssjy9gjmu.jpg.html)
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Mine will be finished next Monday I would suspect. I hope to deliver it in person over Labor Day weekend. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. She' drawing around 65# @28 and absolutely drives the boo into the foam. She wants to put a deer down I can tell. It might be the best shooting bow I've made, top 3 for sure. I haven't had great success with black locust in the past, but I'm officially a convert. I'll be cutting a lot more soon. I'm glad I came around the stuff is everywhere. Just trying to get her gussied up at this point. It takes a lot of tru oil to hide the grain of the cloth backing.
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Here's my offering. 66" Osage bendy. It pull 42# at my guys draw length and it shoots pretty good (I'm not great at archery yet so it shoots good for me). Bone guitar saddle blanks for tip overlays and a hemp cord wrapped handle. I got the belly skin from Cip (thanks sip). The handle is built up with leather and the rest is also leather. This bow has a bit of character and was my first bendy. Thanks and any comments are appreciated. Tim.
Thanks again to Hunterbob for the second set of eyes
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Just a couple more.
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That is awesome looking Timothy!
Make sure to get my address right... hahaha
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Life is still finding ways of slowing me up but I've finished testing the bow and it shoots really nice, no hand-shock, very little set: scales say weight is OK but it feels lighter than the scales indicate. Finally managed to get hold of some 600 grit sanding pads, so, figure about 2 hours left on the carving, then whatever it takes to fine sand, varnish and wax it. Will post some photos when the carving is finished.
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Let's try to get these last few finished and shipped by the end of the month.
At this point there are only 3 that I'm not getting info on.
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Fingers crossed for shipping the beginning of next week, but then I've said that before :-[.......All the pencil marks have been carved off, and that is always a good sign that things are nearly all done.
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Tim looks like a shooter to me. I really like those belly scales on your bow. I have a few sets I plan on using
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Ryan are those copperhead skins?
Dakota Kid. I must say I'm a huge fan of BL wood. Can't wait to see a pick of it.
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Look'in good Timothy, look'in good!
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Thanks guys. I'm hoping to ship Wednesday unfortunately I won't have another day off till Wednesday so I'm afraid it will be down to the wire. But it will be shipped by the end of the month.
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That looks great Tim...I love those belly Scales as well!!
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I'm in the Cayman islands right now....I probably should have mentioned that. If a bow was shipped my neighbor would have grabbed it tho.
I don't think palm trees would make a great bow. Everything out here has become pretty hurricane resistant over the years and can bend every which way without breaking.
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Sounds nice, Ajooter. When are you comin" back? I want a souvenir... hahahaha
My bow was shipped today. Should be there next week...
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shipped today had to redo my writing on it lol screwed up and put it upside down :P
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I shipped today as well hope my victim likes-Hammertime
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Wish I was seeing it up close and personal hammer...I'm sure your guy will be happy!
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My bow was shipped Friday to its new owner. Should be there Monday night according to the post office
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Looks like quite a few more bows in the mail. Hopefully we are getting close to everyone receiving their trade bow. Looking forward to seeing those bows in the hands of their new owners.
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Carving's done! (https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3663.jpg)
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That looks great mud!
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Just paint, oil and wax left to go, although there my well be a little tidying needed- first coat of paint often reveals small errors. Finding an international carrier willing to take a package over 150cm long is proving challenging.
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Stuck that carving is sweet!!!!
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1st off, I apologize for the absence... I was in the process of getting the tiller squared away on the trilam when I discovered this:
(http://i.imgur.com/JMRvq4f.jpg)
Well, I'm not going to try to put a bandaid on this one. I haven't tossed it yet, as I think I caught the crack soon enough that it shouldn't go all the way to the walnut. I think I'll try sanding the old belly off and putting a new one on, but that will be a project for another time.
So, over the last week, I've been getting on more trilam together. Here is where it's at now:
(http://i.imgur.com/248IrV9.jpg)
It's a little bit of an inverse of the 1st bow. Instead of an osage belly with a walnut core, I'm using an ipe belly with an Argentine osage core! The Argentine osage I bought a while back, but it really wasn't appropriate for using as a belly. But, I'd read osage makes a good core and that Argentine osage is pretty close to American osage (and I really liked the way the osage and walnut looked together!). I started off making the bow 1 1/4" from the fades for 6" then tapering to 1/2" tip. It's 69" long this time, as I wanted to get a little less stress on the outer limbs. I'll also be trying to be careful when I get to tillering the bow when it's at full brace. I was looking at the pictures from the last bow and the tiller was looking good until I started the final tillering. I think I ended up taking too much off of the last half of the limb and not enough from the 1st half. This time around, I'll be sure to start scraping the inner limbs sooner, as I really want the full draw to look like a nice bend from the fade to about midlimb, then have the limb look straight from there to the tip (a good r/d full draw bend, in other words).
I'll be taking off a bit of wood tonight, as I pulled down an inch using the long string and the bow was already pulling 40 pounds! I did leave the ipe a little thick (a hair thicker than 1/4"), so I'm not too surprised, given ipe's reputation. Then, I'll get to tillering this bad boy seriously tomorrow!
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That bow is mine right stuck!!!! >:D >:D >:D
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OK, so paint gotta cure then I can post it, looks like Branwen is going to her new home on Wednesday
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3664-e1472474452396.jpg)
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Ty that sucks. Been there done that. The good news is next time you do a glue up and you see a knot on the edge, you will know better.
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Yeah... The worst part is I didn't even uncover that knot until I was well on my way tillering. But, I will definitely be on the lookout for those sorts of things in the future!
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1/4 sawn lumber can be both a blessing and a curse.
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Looking good Andrew. ;D
Here's my bow going out tomorrow morning USPS Priority mail. >:D\
Just to let you know she came in a tad under weight but shoots where you look. Seems to like 40-45# spine at 29" BOP, 125 gr up front.
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Looks great Fred! Haha
Someone should have a bow on their front porch tomorrow...
;)
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Stuck is that carving on the belly or back. I can't remember seeing a pic of the whole bow. But either way that's some fine craftsmanship
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I'll keep my eyes open fred!
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Several being shipped - well done guys.
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Right on guys!!
Way to get em shipped.
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Thanks Gutshot, the carving is the hand-grip so is on the belly (facing the archer). I once missed a tiny scratch in the back of a yew bow and it lifted a splinter a soon as I drew it so I think this means that any attempt at carving the back will lead to a catastrophic failure? You didn't miss a full-bow photo as I haven't taken it yet ;)
OK, here you go:
(https://stuckinthemudsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/dscf3665-e1472545000465.jpg)
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Yep, someone WILL have a bow today. Isn't out for delivery yet, but the "Sorting was conplete" as of about 10 minutes ago.
To the guy getting mine, there is a piece of paper folded up and taped to the bow that you should probably read. ;)
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I received my bow yesterday from Kid Bow. Nice bend in the handle bow but because of injuries and an inappropriate stringer for the tip design I can't get it strung :laugh: I'm going to have to figure something out or get another type stringer as it's too heavy for this old worn out man. I'll get pics up as soon as I am able.
I'll also try to get a list together of those who haven't received a bow yet. Not many remaining unshipped and I know the status on all but two.
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I received my bow yesterday from Kid Bow. Nice bend in the handle bow but because of injuries and an inappropriate stringer for the tip design I can't get it strung :laugh: I'm going to have to figure something out or get another type stringer as it's too heavy for this old worn out man. I'll get pics up as soon as I am able.
I'll also try to get a list together of those who haven't received a bow yet. Not many remaining unshipped and I know the status on all but two.
sorry about that fred I'm used to using the push pull method of stringing my bows. hopefully its nothing to heavy. also did you get the note?
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Yes I did and thank you young man. Fred
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Someone has a bow on their front porch.... ;)
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I hope it's me david!
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I've been super busy with work and some projects at home....but I will have to make some time to get my new bow shot in! Thank you Mr. Ewing! I wish I still had my first bow for comparison...but I know for a fact it wasn't this nice. From the inlay at the arrow pass...to the gorgeous "redneck" baseball stitch on the handle wrap...the leather being perfectly fit...this bow was extremely well made.
I have a full schedule every night for the rest of the week but I will find time to get some pictures up. Thank again David...this bow will see some time in the woods this fall for sure!
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Congrats Ajooter. Can't wait to see some pictures of you and your new bow.
Nice work David.
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I'm glad you like it so far! Hopefully once you shoot it you'll still like it. Lol. Seemed to shoot good for me, but I'm not all that great with these bows.
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Ajooter you lucky dog! David congrats on your first bow and glad you hung in there after the first one failed that shows your determination to get the job done!
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Got mine in the mail. Y'all be on the lookout for Saturday! Hope you like it.
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I would like to take this time to thank all of you who actively participated and made this trade possible.
It looks at the present time that everyone who made a bow will be receiving one. There are some in the mail presently and a couple more to be shipped by early next week.
There look to be four involved who will not be finishing the trade and should they decide I've decided to let them trade among themselves.
I was required to make some late changes to accommodate this, thus the delay and late shipping for a few.
If you have any concerns or comments you are welcome to either post them here or PM me.
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Congratulations Fred and all the participants for a successful PA Bow Trade...the way they used to be. ;)
Well done all! 8)
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FRED!!!! I love you!! Hahahaha.
I will open this dude up when I stop for lunch!!
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lots of positive energy in this thread
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Well, I received my bow from Fred today, if you couldn't tell by my last post.
All I can say is wow.
This thing is beautiful. It feels great in my hand, pulls super nice and looks great.
He was even nice enough to send a couple arrows and some sinew.
THANK YOU FRED! This bow will definitely be out in the woods this year. I am going to go shoot it after lunch, and will also post pictures.
(This thing is so awesome!!!!!)
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It even has beaver fur silencers... which is just cool. We have beaver pelts all over our house, so it matches perfectly.
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David, I'm glad you like it. It's a nice shooting bow but it can't compete in looks with some of the others I've seen made on this trade this year. I didn't tie down the silencers so you can adjust them to where you think they are needed. It's quiet enough that it really doesn't need them.
Came in a tad lighter than what I was shooting for although it is inside your specs. The tips are from Gemsbok horn, the small arrow rest from the tip of deer antler, a jute handle wrap and 10 strand 8190 low stretch string.
I couldn't keep the writing on the belly from bleeding with the beeswax and beef tallow so the belly was sprayed with low gloss Deft to hold the ink and then the bow was treated with the wax/tallow combination.
You did a marvelous job this year and I hope to see you back around for the next trade.
And kudos to all of you guys for helping this young man when he was struggling through his trade bow.
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I can't wait for pictures David.
Fred, this trade was great. You did such a great job keeping track of everything and organizing this. I would like to thank you for making this trade such a great trade. I am proud I was able to be part of it.
Mike
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Full draw pic sucks, again. I had the bow leaned way over and it makes the limbs look wierd.
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/069_zpsmbh81bf4.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/069_zpsmbh81bf4.jpg.html)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/070_zpsldfj4yyq.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/070_zpsldfj4yyq.jpg.html)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/071_zpsil107rhj.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/071_zpsil107rhj.jpg.html)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/072_zpskhxcdqmr.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/072_zpskhxcdqmr.jpg.html)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l62/krzyjon123/073_zpscx76jf4a.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/krzyjon123/media/073_zpscx76jf4a.jpg.html)
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Nothing weird about that. Looks mighty good to me. Nice work Fred!
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Congrats David, Fred done you good looks like a fine bow and arrows too! WOW
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Looks darn good to me!! Sweet bow Fred. Congrats David.
Tattoo Dave
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Well, I've finally made some more progress on trilam #2. First of all, I just want to thank everyone for their input on the last one. I am going to get this one finished (I don't see any knots!!), but I completely understand if I'm not going to get a bow out of this trade. At this point, I just want to fulfill my own wish to make my trade a sweet trilam, and I think this one is on it's way. So, without further ado... pictures!
Here's how it looked after I got it floor tillered:
(http://i.imgur.com/1IBZlQd.jpg)
And the pic after I got in moving 4 inches with the long string (a wee fuzzy on the right side, but you can see the gist):
(http://i.imgur.com/Ik0cykY.jpg)
And here's how it looked with a tight long string:
(http://i.imgur.com/i8SjuhF.jpg)
I thought everything was looking good, so I went on to get it to a short brace. Here's the result of that:
(http://i.imgur.com/MOY5ntw.jpg)
That right limb is just a touch on the stiff side... All I can say is working with ipe is definitely an exercise in patience!! However, here's the picture after unbracing it:
(http://i.imgur.com/bjIjx7b.jpg)
All I can say I am really excited to see how this bow will turn out. But, as it seems is par for the course, I did have a minor setback. While scraping away at that right limb (which was looking better and better), I went to string the bow and started to hear a ticking sound. At first my heart started to sink. I stopped stringing it and started looking the bow over and discovered this:
(http://i.imgur.com/hcHXNV1.jpg)
So the handle section is starting to separate. This is the part of the handle that is on the left hand side of the bow from the tillering tree pics. I wouldn't be surprised if it started to separate due to the sharp step between the handle and the working limb (which isn't how it was after glue-up, but you can see how much wood I've had to remove in order to get the weight down to a reasonable poundage...). I would be half tempted to just let the whole handle section pop off, but here's the other side of the handle:
(http://i.imgur.com/YXnisj4.jpg)
As pointed out, the crack goes into the belly lam. Not the end of the world since it's a stiff handle (I'm guessing some epoxy will solve it), but I obviously need to take care of the handle section before continuing the tillering. I think I'll need to get the handle off, get the ipe in the handle section to the same thickness of the limbs, and reattach the handle. I hope I can get it off without grinding the whole thing off, but if that's what I need to do, so be it. That is, unless there's a better alternative.
Stay tuned!
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Others may be able to give better advice, --I don't have experience with this type-- but it seems like getting that transition smooth between the fade (grip) and the bending limb.
Hang in there, and I am sure you will be getting a bow too--you have worked to keep the group up to date. someone should know what to do and can help.
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Congrats David!
You have persevered and it has paid off...for you by getting an awesome bow, and for your recipient by the sweet bow he will get...and for all of us who got to watch you go through this process and keep at it.
Way to go mister!
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Tyler, I can't say that there is anyone here that has put in more effort than what you have put forth. You've shown me a lot of character. Don't get down on yourself.
Sorry I couldn't have been of more help but when you started tackling the trilams you stepped out of the realm of my limited experience.
As long as your guy is patient and I know he is you can take all the time you need to get this right.
It might be best to post this build and questions on a new topic where more guys with experience will see it.
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Well, I'll give it some time, but I'm mostly certain the problem is the thickness of the ipe. I had 0 problems with the last bow as far as the handle was concerned and used the same side dimensions as the last bow (straight for 6" then taper to 1/2" at the tip). The difference between the 2 are that I really didn't do major work on the belly to get the weight down on the 1st bow. This one... I could have started at 3/16" and I would have been fine (instead of 1/4" + a hair).
At least this early in, I'd hope this is a pretty fixable problem. If I don't hear anything else, I might try to make a new topic.
And don't worry, I'm not throwing in the towel!!
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Ty I like laminated bows but I also only build mine with 3 lams. Use hickory bamboo for the back ipe core and Osage belly. Here is a pic of how my glue up is and I use smooth on epoxy.
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/psmith311/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-09/DC81E943-F262-478B-BC73-D6C0E5F9E678_zpsztsxtjtd.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/psmith311/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-09/DC81E943-F262-478B-BC73-D6C0E5F9E678_zpsztsxtjtd.jpg.html)
See how the Osage comes up on the fades of the riser that keeps that riser from popping loose. That's my look at it
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Ty, I've got faith in you. Anyone who has worked as hard as you have deserves a bow for the effort put forth. I know you'll persevere. and I also know your bow is on the way.
The only ones left out in this trade are a few who didn't participate. What you, David, and other new bow makers have gone through is what this trade is all about.
There may have been a few bumps in the road but I have to say that it's been a very honorable and rewarding experience for me personally to have been involved in this great trade.
You guys have been awesome!!! >>------> Fred
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Well, thanks for the kind words, Fred. To be fair, everyone who completed a bow did some really great work. I know you've said it, but I agree that I would be happy with any bow that's been made for this trade. I just want to do as right as I can with you all, considering I'm already past the initial deadline and pushing past the 2nd deadline.
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Hey Ty, having gone through something similar in this trade attempting my first take-down, I completely understand what you're going through. I really admire your perseverance! Be like Dory (just keep swimming!! ;) ) Anyone trying as hard as you completely deserves their place in the Trade.
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Got home from a marathon school-uniform shopping trip and guess what , its Hammertime! The bow is amazing, thank you so much, I am totally thrilled, my gob gas never been so smacked! ;D This bow is gonna rack up some serious time this winter!
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Hope it shoot great for you Stuck....the snake skin is from a friend North Dakota, hickory from a local cabinet maker and tips from a friend who use to make glass bows glad it made it made it over the pond safely- Hammertime
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Your one lucky guy stuck!! I want to ses some more pictures of that bow for sure!
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;) Well guys it looks like this years trade is finally wrapping itself up. :'(
I made some late changes and everyone who made a bow and shipped is going to get a bow.
Hopefully by next weekend Kid Bow and Dylan will have their new bows in hand. I expect they will both be happy with the outcome.
Of the remaining group who haven't shipped or received, one pair were already matched up and sending to one another and the second pair are now matched up and can work it out between themselves as to whether or not they want to finish the trade.
We did have an alternate in case problems arose but they haven't been active lately and if they still come through I will have a bow I made to ship to them.
All in all I'd say it was a remarkable effort on all of your part and hope to see you all again next year.
Respectfully,
Fred Arnold
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Thank you Fred...ya did a hell of a job. I will start a seperate thread for my bow when i get time. Thank you all.
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Aaron, when you start your new thread it would be nice if all of the guys posted their bows as a follow up so that we can view them all on one thread without having to go through almost 300 pages.
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Aaron, when you start your new thread it would be nice if all of the guys posted their bows as a follow up so that we can view them all on one thread without having to go through almost 300 pages.
I agree. I want to see all these bows again.
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Hey Ty,
I didn't see that handle before. Bummer man.
That is still a beautiful work and I wish I knew what to suggest.
I'll bet you can pull it off somehow ;)
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This was my first bow trade and had a blast learned a lot and loved reading all 200+ pages of it. Heck I even got a bow trade with Rich out of the deal. And a few other trades with Dubois river cane for a Osage stave. Ajooter a Flemish string for raw hide. Jeffp51 can't remember what I sent but got a few obsidean points he knapped. And if I missed any one sorry. But thanks Fred for making this trade happen and thanks Mitch for the nice bow I recieved from the PA trade. Thanks to all that was involved.
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Congrats on a nice bow David and well done Fred! Can't help but like osage.
Agree with all the posts on a well run and successful trade. Enjoyed being a part of it. Thank you to dylanholderman on a nice osage bow! Looking forward to next year.
Mitch
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My offering is out for delivery, so keep an eye on your porches.
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Hey Ty,
I didn't see that handle before. Bummer man.
That is still a beautiful work and I wish I knew what to suggest.
I'll bet you can pull it off somehow ;)
I'm pretty sure I will do the following: 1) Salvage what I can of the current handle 2) Sand the ipe down in the middle to match the thickness of the limbs 3) Reattach handle 4) Shape handle so that the shape going from the fade to the handle part Is concave instead of convex (ie more like the previous how's handle).
I wish I could see how that left limb was bending (that is, if the inner limb is bending way too much vs just a bad transition). I don't want to bend the limbs until the right limb is looking better, and now I can't bend the bow at all until I get the handle addressed.
Gutshot, if it comes to it, I'll make the handle section like on the picture you submitted. The guy who refined the design I'm copying states he doesn't have problems with his handles popping off, so it's not a design flaw.
As soon as the handle is reattached, I'll post more progress pics!
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Ty,
I am like Fred, I don't have any experience with tri-lams, but I think your plan is sound. I have only made one bow that was highly reflexed--a sinew backed juniper bow--but I had similar issues bracing it. I think that is pretty common for highly reflexed bows, and it doesn't necessarily mean you are way out of tiller, it means it wasn't ready to brace--I think. Either that, or the glue line breaking exposed/caused a weakness that led to the unbalanced brace. Having a gradual transition at fade--keeping every thing smooth as you work through the tillering, should help, as will having a perfect glue line when you reattach the riser/handle will also be very important.
Good luck, and hang in there. This is a challenging project, but I think you are going to succeed, and you will have a bow to be proud of.
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This was my first bow trade and had a blast learned a lot and loved reading all 200+ pages of it. Heck I even got a bow trade with Rich out of the deal. And a few other trades with Dubois river cane for a Osage stave. Ajooter a Flemish string for raw hide. Jeffp51 can't remember what I sent but got a few obsidean points he knapped. And if I missed any one sorry. But thanks Fred for making this trade happen and thanks Mitch for the nice bow I recieved from the PA trade. Thanks to all that was involved.
Gut, you sent me some goat rawhide. I backed my tradebow with it. It turned out great. Enjoy the points. I hope they help you change your name to "Lungshot" or "Through the heartshot"
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I agree with Mr. Gut
Awesome job on the trade Fred!
THANK YOU!!
And lots of fun, good trades and lessons, and a bow on top of it all!
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This was my first bow trade and had a blast learned a lot and loved reading all 200+ pages of it. Heck I even got a bow trade with Rich out of the deal. And a few other trades with Dubois river cane for a Osage stave. Ajooter a Flemish string for raw hide. Jeffp51 can't remember what I sent but got a few obsidean points he knapped. And if I missed any one sorry. But thanks Fred for making this trade happen and thanks Mitch for the nice bow I recieved from the PA trade. Thanks to all that was involved.
Gut, you sent me some goat rawhide. I backed my tradebow with it. It turned out great. Enjoy the points. I hope they help you change your name to "Lungshot" or "Through the heartshot"
I agree. It turned out GREAT. That goat hide (along with the art work and yew bow) will be going in the woods with me in a couple of weeks. Archery opener is just around the corner.
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Branwen is on her way! Courier said between 1 and 3 days :)
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Branwen is on her way! Courier said between 1 and 3 days :)
To my house right? Cause that's a beautiful and I mean beautiful bow.
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I could tell you but then I'd have to........ >:D
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Lol I'll just pray and see how that leads me ;D
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Ready to ride.......look out on Saturday someone.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Trade%20Bow%20Ship_zpstmzhvgx7.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Trade%20Bow%20Ship_zpstmzhvgx7.jpg.html)
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Ty,
Saw this in another thread and thought it may be helpful to you with the handle popping off that tri-lam. Just FYI
http://poorfolkbows.com/ipe1.htm (http://poorfolkbows.com/ipe1.htm)
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i think your mail carrier might object to such a large package >:D
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i think your mail carrier might object to such a large package >:D
Fortunately not. He's used to me shipping and receiving bows :-)
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I feel as though a superb dirty joke opportunity may have just passed. My mail carrier is of a different gender though, so it seemed the perfect setup.
My tube is in transit. ;D ;D ;D
I took a few pics before she was secured and shipped. I'll throw them up after I munch my supper, pan fried walleye 8).
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I feel as though a superb dirty joke opportunity may have just passed. My mail carrier is of a different gender though, so it seemed the perfect setup.
My imagination is running wild DK
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I feel as though a superb dirty joke opportunity may have just passed. My mail carrier is of a different gender though, so it seemed the perfect setup.
well i was trying to set one up but no bites ::)
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Bites of any kind should typically be avoided when large packages are involved.
set... spike... point.. match!
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Here's a few pics of the Black Locust lady I sent out today.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2910_copy_zpsrrvdspoj.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2909_copy_zpslg69ognx.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2911_copy_zpsoqprdwrk.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2915_copy_zpsyntkpkw0.jpg)
My form is way off. My grip on the string isn't in the right spot. I should have used an arrow, but the neighbors panic easy. She ended up breaking in at 55# @ 28". She shot really well. I almost wanted to keep her. One of the top three I've built so far I'd say. It's hard to pick favorites though.
Wouldn't you know that after I got back from sending it out, I looked at the table and the note I wrote for my victim was sitting there. DOH! So whoever gets this one PM me when it arrives and I'll give you some specific info.
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Nice bow!!! He's a young guy and although I was pissed at him early for lack of participation,. he came through with flying colors and he deserves it. Congratulations whomever you are >:D
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Forgot to say, Branwen means White Raven in Welsh. She's just left Memphis, according to tracking, wonder where she's flying to next >:D
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Guys got me all hyped up with this stuff. Lol
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Today's the day! She's sitting on someone's porch :D
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Look at what just showed up on my porch >:D
(http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w411/dylanholderman/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-09/C8D1539D-1E3A-42D3-9BB5-C5B53FFCD6EF.jpg) (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-09/C8D1539D-1E3A-42D3-9BB5-C5B53FFCD6EF.jpg.html)
I already put a dozen arrows through her, all I had time for right now but I am quite happy :) thanks Dakota kid ;D
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You're welcome. I hope it shoots well for you. It looks like the string could use a few twists. It's been in a tube for a few days and got humid, it may tighten up as it airs out.
Either way I assume you can handle it from here. Enjoy. :)
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Dylan, you lucky dog.......dandy stick.....enjoy!
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So how many are left to ship a bow out in this trade?
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Congrats Dylan. DK you done a fine job with that BL
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I just recieved branwen. This thing is beyond amazing. The craftsmanship of it is beyond amazing. I'll get a few pictures up tomorrow. Stuck, my friend, don't let anyone tell you your work is anything less than amazing.
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That's a heck of a sweet bow!! Nice work!
Kid, looking forward to seeing some pics.
Tattoo Dave
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Does anyone know how many have not shipped yet?
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I am still waiting for mine. I have actually been in contact with my guy, but I haven't heard from him for a while, so I don't know for sure what is up.
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Morning KB, hope she shoots well for you - I'm a lefty so apart from some flight shots, she hasn't been fully shot in yet :). Happy shootin!
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Got a very nice hickory stick today. Man this this is a beauty! I can't shot it or take any proper pics right now. But I'll get it done tomorrow. Very nice drewster. I'm very pleased with it!
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Thanks Timothy. I hope she will serve you well and be a treat to shoot.
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Well, I apologize for the delay. I've been really scratching the good ol' head trying to figure this one out.
So here's how I rectified the handle: Instead of chopping the whole thing off, I reshaped the fades so that they went into the belly (kind of like if you were to glue on a handle section on a 3/4" stave/board). I epoxied and clamped it back together, using some .004" brass to get epoxy all the way through the crack.
(http://i.imgur.com/ZbVSKap.jpg)
And here's how it looks afterwards:
(http://i.imgur.com/OFImxsB.jpg)
Now here's my problem: the right limb is still not bending like the left limb when short braced:
(http://i.imgur.com/7wJWL8G.jpg)
I thought the problem was it was too stiff, but after a few rounds of scraping, the shape doesn't "flip" like the left limb (in fact, it doesn't look like it's changed much). If I apply a little bit of downward pressure on the tip, the limb takes a shape that is more like the left limb.
On the plus side, the handle is staying firmly in place...
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Ty show us the unstrung picture.
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(http://i.imgur.com/UYOen6Z.jpg)
This is a quick pic of the unbraced.
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I wonder if going to a longer tillering string for a bit can help? That much reflex is really hard to brace, and it will be easy to miss your target weight, in my experience with reflexed bows I think the bet bet would be to post a separate thread and see what some of the others can say in help. I think keeping the fade smoothly transitioning into the bending limb like you have it will be key to keeping it pop off.
See what others say. Keep trying.
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I think it might need a shorter string - Branwen was reflexed and would not pull to shape at brace until a short enough string was put on to force the limb to bend in the right direction even though drawing her an inch or two did give her the correct shape - it might be that at the moment the limb can choose which way it wants to bend and so it is choosing to bend up not down - have you tried stepping on the string and pulling the centre of the bow upward to see what happens?
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Leave the left limb alone and strictly work the right limb until it is bending the same. Leave your string just barely slacked until you balance them out. Then twist it up more. The fact your unbraced bow still looks good, is a good thing.
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Appears to me your right limb may have a bit more reflex than the left. In and of itself, that may not be an issue, but I would get them even as much as possible. PEARL is right either way, get the right limb bending even with the left and leave the left alone until then.
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Well, it's good to hear the bow is still in the realm of being a bow. I had a restless night, so I went down to the garage to scrape some wood off of it. No pics, but using a longer string, I could see the mid limb of the right limb is quite stiff. I think the reflex being uneven will solve itself once I tame that right limb. I will also stay away from the left limb.
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Quick update: the right limb is still stiff (and not bending like the left limb), but after scraping at it over the past day, it is starting to "flip over" like the other limb. I should have it looking better soon!
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keep it up! :D
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So, updates with pics!
I finally managed to get the right limb more even with the left. However, another problem reared its head. Here are 3 pics of the bow: 1st is with a tight enough long string that the bow was at a 1/4" brace, 2nd is pulling the bow string so it is under the platform the handle is resting on, and 3rd is the bow at a 10" draw:
(http://i.imgur.com/H0bhAxA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/EhdV0cA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/21Ou05A.jpg)
So, I did try to flip the tips of the ipe by steam heating it. It appears the left limb retained the flipped tip well, the right limb... not so much.
Finally, here's the profile of the bow right after unbracing it:
(http://i.imgur.com/jSJzieC.jpg)
So, I have some ideas about how to proceed from here, but I would like to hear from you guys. As I see it, my options are (in no particular order):
1) Proceed in tillering the bow and try to weaken the left limb tip in order to get rid of the flip
2) Try to add a flip to the right limb (for a 1:1 ratio, it looks like the Smooth On will start distorting at 163F, so I'm not sure about this option)
3) Knock of 2-3 inches from each end of the bow. It's a hair over 69" ttt, so I do have a little wiggle room in this area.
If any of these sounds better (or if there's another option available that I can't think of), let me know! I hope to implement the flip fix in time for my weekend (Sun-Mon) so that I can actually get this thing bending.
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I wouldn't be messing with steam/heat and Ipe. It is not a heat friendly wood. You just need to tiller through the idiosyncrasies of the limbs.
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Its about time for a low brace so the limbs start pulling in and down, it will change the shape and how they are bending.
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Gotcha. I will get on to bracing it at a low brace height.
And for the steaming, lesson learned. I read some people having success with steaming ipe, especially if they made a cut in the ipe and filled the void with a more bend-friendly wood. I thought with a 1/4" thick piece of wood, it would work. I wouldn't do it again.
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I managed to get home for my lunch break. So, for better or worse, here's the low brace pic without any work done to the bow from the last batch of pictures I just posted:
(http://i.imgur.com/ufrMp01.jpg)
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You've overdone the scraping on the stubborn limb without exercising the wood sufficiently between scrapes and now you've got a working hinge in that outer. You're going to have to reduce everywhere else to make that area relatively strong again. That's going to lose you a lot of weight.
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Well, at this point, I'll just give it a shot. This one's been a pain from the get go. It's still plenty heavy, so it might yet get close to the goal weight.
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Its soooooooo much easier to explain and learn in person. Me, you and 2 hours in a shop and that bugger is done. Pats description is exactly what I would say as well. Don't ever be scared to pull on a bow while your building it, to a degree of course. When there are no glaring hinges a bow can be as unbalanced from limb to limb as much as it wants and you can still pull it back to 35-45# to register changes after wood removal. There are times to be timid and times to beat it up a bit! :)
The reason this bow is challenging you is the position of the reflex. Its very early when you look at the unbraced pic. Mid limb or farther out is much better on the wood and your eyes. A certain portion of that reflexed area will not bend, therefore the portion behind it has to do more hence the deflexed head-start you give it. In turn you scrape the apex of your reflex trying to make it move when it should be nearly static. Honestly? Id start another for the swap and then see what you can come up with regarding this one. That area with the hinge is under nearly as much pressure as the fade, so you are going to lose a ton of weight to make that tiller right. Remember you have to do the other to match. Id bet on 15-20#.
And the last of my morning ramblings. You see why I suggested a tighter string? By pulling in and down your week spot shone like a beacon. On a long string its barely noticeable. Id love to teach you floor tiller/to low brace. Its the best for the bow and bowyer. Floor tiller alone is an art.
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1st of all, thanks for the straight forward input, PatM. I was in a rush to get back to work, so I didn't have enough time to run through what happened in the scraping process.
After reflecting on how this bow went, both PatM and Pearl hit the nail on the head as far as not exercising the bow enough while I was working on that right limb. Also, as Pearl so aptly called it, I was timid when it came to bending the limbs, since that right limb was so wonky.
In all honesty, after I got back to work and started to think about it, I did decide I would begin on a new bow. I have enough walnut and bamboo to do another trilam and I recently got a couple of 36" long 5/8" thick osage boards from 3rivers that look great and a new ripping blade for the table saw that supposedly has a minimal kerf (I have yet to use it). So, I was going to start up getting the third bow ready (since that first one with bamboo walnut and osage was going pretty well until that knot) while scraping at the current bow, but after reading Pearl's post (and agreeing 100%), I might as well just put all my effort into getting #3 up and running.
So here are some things I noticed with this bow that set me up for a challenge while I was working on it. 1st of all, I think in the future I will try this wood combination again. It has a lot of potential, but next time I will start off with a thinner core lam. I know osage (whether good ol' American osage or the Argentine osage I used) is a bit more dense than other core woods (maple, cherry, walnut, actionboo, etc). However, since it was going to be a fairly long bow, I thought using the same dimensions on the prior bow (3/16" at the fade to 1/16" at the tip taper) would suffice. I'm pretty sure I'll be starting no thicker than 1/8" next time. As I stated earlier, I shouldn't have tried to flip the ipe. As Pearl pointed out, I also did notice the reflex position of the bow was different from the last bow. In my haste to try to get the current bow ready, I did place the reflex a bit too close to the fades to my liking. I was hoping for a mid-limb (like the 1st trilam), but I thought I would proceed since the reflex wasn't in a really really bad spot. And, as previously stated in this post, the lack of exercising the limbs. I'm not sure why I got so defensive in my exercising, as I didn't have that mentality on the 1st bow, but I will differ to that limb throwing me for a loop (in addition to being so far behind in the trade has added a little bit of stress as well, making me a little more hasty than I should have been).
I'm also not going to give up on this bow. If worse comes to worse, I can remove the ipe completely, thin the osage, put on a new belly, and maybe see what happens if I were to place it on the form with putting the reflex in midlimb. I actually think what is most likely to happen is this: I can shorten the tips at some point (I don't know if now would be as good of time with that hinge in the right limb) which would get the reflex closer to being in the middle of the limb and add some weight to the bow (I'd most likely take it down to 63" ttt). It could still make a nice 40-50# @ 27-28" bow at those dimensions. The more I think about it, the more I think that is what I'll end up doing (if for no other reason than to see what happens!).
And maybe someday I'll be able to get out and meet some experienced bowyer for a lesson or two. I know I've done a ton of reading, but there's something about talking through it in person that just can't be replaced. I just need to convince the wife there's a reason to get to wherever there at!
Finally, thank you all for being so helpful! I'm not going to toss in the towel on this one. And even though I feel extremely bad about how late this is going, on this next bow I will not rush it when I do get a chance to do work on it. I think, though, I will start a new thread (as suggested by Jeff) and I'll post the final product before shipping it out here so that there will at least be closure to this otherwise very successful trade.
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Move that reflex out about 8-10" and exercise it more, that next one will come easy. Its damn hard to see and read tiller with reflex so early.