Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: osage outlaw on June 01, 2016, 04:37:18 pm
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There was a vendor at Marshall selling straightened bamboo shafts really cheap. Several of us picked up a bundle from him. I started working on mine and thought it would be a good idea to do a build-a-long. I want to improve my arrow making and could use some help along the way. I spined a few of the shafts and they were all in the low 60's. That's a little heavy for what I shoot. The arrows are long right now. I'm going to finish the nock end and keep shortening them until I get good arrow flight. I've never done any bare shaft tuning. I'm not sure how that works. I guess I'll figure that out when the time comes.
So far I've drilled a hole for the nock and wrapped the shafts to help prevent cracking.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160531_215856_zpsofgtupjh.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160531_215856_zpsofgtupjh.jpg.html)
I used a utility knife to rough out the nocks. I'll be working on these in the evenings after I get home from work. It might take me a while to finish them up.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160531_220009_zpsju4zmded.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160531_220009_zpsju4zmded.jpg.html)
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160531_220046_zpscyvht54j.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160531_220046_zpscyvht54j.jpg.html)
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bareshaft testing . . . consistent draw/anchor is needed. Looking forward to your arrow-building approach.
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I'll be following this! Always loved arrows , from the finely crafted, to the most primitive.
Good luck!
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After what you did to Bill I doubt he'll jump in for any pointers
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i picked up a couple o dozen of those as well. so gonna follow a long.
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Pauly is likely correct. Or, some misinformation may be imparted. >:D
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After what you did to Bill I doubt he'll jump in for any pointers
Naaaaaa......This will be good to help others with building arra's....Thanks Clint
Paul/Mike.....Clint will be looking over his shoulder for a while ;)
Though Clint makes pretty good arra's himself........
You have a good start..... drilling through the tape will help from splitting on the back side of the hole. File or sand the hole smooth the boo can be very sharp and cut your string serving. Make you nock a little wider than your string and for the final touches, heat the tips of the nock with a candle and with a needle nose pliers pinch the tips just a bit, making snap on knocks for hunting.
To reduce the spine some, you could chuck the shaft in a drill, fixed in a vice and sand down the shafts a bit.
Keep it coming Clint
DBar
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What's your drill size? The protective wrap is what kinda tape?
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Don't forget to take a square file and chamfer the nock................
DBar
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triangle file?
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Square ....90 deg.
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Great idea, DBar.
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I would test them before reducing spine, bamboo tends to like a slightly heavier spine than wood, I know that makes no sense mathwise but I've found it to be true nonetheless. For those following along without a square file what I do is take a board or anything else hard with a 90° corner and just lay some 220 sandpaper over it. Looking forward to the rest!
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I like to use 2 hacksaw blades tapped together to cut down to the hole I drill for my knock. After light sanding it too makes a nice snap knock for hunting. Can't wait to see more Clint
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bareshaft testing . . . consistent draw/anchor is needed.
That may be a problem with the way I shoot
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What's your drill size? The protective wrap is what kinda tape?
I'm not sure what size the drill bit was. I picked one out that was slightly smaller than the bottom of a plastic nock. I have some needle files to get it to final size.
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I roughed out a lot of feathers today. I'm going to try to get more done on the arrows this weekend. I bought some spray paint for them. I want to get another color or two. I'll need some kool-aid to dye the feathers also.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160603_163424_zpscragh8uh.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160603_163424_zpscragh8uh.jpg.html)
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I've got a bunch of river can Bill gave me some pointers for. I'll be watching this to see what you come up with.
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I finished shaping the nocks on all the shafts. I used some sandpaper and a couple of very small files. I'll wrap them below the string groove after I get them painted.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160604_160422_zpsjv6sxdfl.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160604_160422_zpsjv6sxdfl.jpg.html)
I trimmed the feathers down a little more and sanded the quills on my 1x30 belt sander. I use a clamp made from some scrap boards and some hinges.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160604_174009_zpsf0pn4pea.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160604_174009_zpsf0pn4pea.jpg.html)
I got all the LW turkey and goose feathers sanded. I'll get the RW's done tomorrow if its not raining.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160604_174058_zpsnunuig8l.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160604_174058_zpsnunuig8l.jpg.html)
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Those nocks look good........So you use milk jugs to dye your feathers?
Wow, good idea i'll do that next time...........
DBar
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I'm not sure what I'm going to dye them in Bill. I normally use a peanut butter jar. I knew you would like the nocks. I have been using the quick plastic ones lately but I went with self nocks on these just so you couldn't give me a hard time about them ;D
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Nice looking nocks Clint. Word of warning though, if you do plan to bare shaft tune your arrows, be sure you wrap the base of those nocks with sinew or thread before you test them. Last time I tuned some, I did not wrap them and I had a tonkin arrow split nearly the entire length of the shaft. It cut my string in two, but luckily that was the only damage, it could have been much worse.
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Thanks for the tip. I planned on wrapping them before I did any shooting. I stopped tonight and got some more paint and kool-aid.
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Looks like you're working on one of those 24-shaft bundles we picked up at Marshall.
Lookin' forward to the dyeing! http://www.dyeyouryarn.com/kool-aid.html
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Looking good Clint. Don't know if those are feathers I traded but I sure hope your happy with them if they are. I hope you like the goose I can get lots of those they seem a bit odd shaped at first but after you trim them down they look good. Guys tell me they work good in rain. I think I owe you yet I got way to good of a deal on trade.
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Thanks for the link Knoll. You are right about the bundle of shafts. I think most of us bought them at that price.
Bjrogg, I was fine with the trade. Some of the feathers are your turkey secondaries and the goose. They are a little small but I think they will work.
I got the shafts painted and sealed today. I went with a high visibility orange on most of them. I painted the tips black on some for my Bengals colors. The other ones I painted the tips blue for my kids school colors. I ran out of orange so I did a couple in pink and black. I left a few natural for now. I like the looks of a natural cane arrow but they are so hard to find on that rare occasion I miss the target ;D I found a few cracks in the shafts. When the paint hit them they really stood out. I will put some superglue in them and maybe add a small wrap.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160605_133738_zpsyrhgio3w.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160605_133738_zpsyrhgio3w.jpg.html)
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lookin good buddy, thanx for the advice Dbar.
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Look good Clint what are you going to use for points?
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Lookin good! Can't say I like the bengals ones though.... >:D
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BJ, I think I'm going to use glue on field points. I might use duplex nail points on some of them also.
Mounter, what team do you root for?
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Paint sticks well to that finish that was on those shafts?
Gettin' close to bareshaft testing time!
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Yea knoll the way I've been doing mine lately next I'd put on points and shoot bare shaft both ways. I'm interested to see what Clint does next.
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Knoll, I sanded the shafts before I painted them.
I got the rest of my turkey feathers ground today. I did some peacock wing feathers to. They grind better than the turkey feathers do.
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BJ, I think I'm going to use glue on field points. I might use duplex nail points on some of them also.
Mounter, what team do you root for?
America's team!!!!
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Clint bare shafting is pretty simple, like was said you do need to be consistent on anchor, but I just leave them pretty long, and what ever tip weight I plan on using. Then get close, say 7 or 8 yards, line up straight with the target, shoot, for a right handed shooter if the arrow hits the target leaning left it is to weak, cut it off a bit, if it is really bad left slant , cut maybe and inch to start, just keep doing that until it hits in the target straight, maybe a little nock high. As you get closer be sure to shoot it more than once and take off less at a time. If it hits with a right slant you will have to add point weight or sand the shaft to weaken it up. You can make a really nice set of flying arrows by doing them one at a time. It takes time but to me well worth it. If I see anything but nock when I shoot and arrow I ant happy with it. :)
Pappy
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Thanks pappy that's explaining it nice a simple.
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Yes, thanks for that info Pappy.
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That will also explain why if you look at my quiver, when I shoot Cain or shoot shafts that they are different lengths, I just tune each arrow, you don't have that problem near as bad with bought shafts.
You can usually tune 1 and if the others are spline the same you can go with that length and point weight on all of them. However it is a good idea to check them all before you cut them ,even with bought shafts, I made up and tuned some Alaskan spruce shafts this weekend and they all splined with in a couple of lb's of each other except for 1 and it was 74lb spline. That is why if you don't check each you can make up a dozen and always seem to have a few that just don't fly right. People say I will use it for a stump arrow but if it don't fly right and hit where I look I don't even want to shoot at a stump with it. I fix it or break it. ;) :) :) Looking forward to seeing what you come up with Clint.
Pappy
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Thanks Pappy. I spine tested a handful of these shafts and they were all 63-64 lbs. I guess I better go with glue on points to figure out the bare shaft length of them.
Last night I put some feathers in the kool-aid dye. Some guys use alcohol, vinegar, or boil the feathers in the kool-aid. I've had good luck just mixing it with water and letting it soak over night. I've got arrows that are 3 or 4 years old and the feathers have kept their color.
I used orange and mixed berry. The feathers float. I fill the container to the top and then push them down with the lid. I put them in tip down and alternate the the sides that are touching so they don't stick together and not get dyed.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160605_211900_zpsjgbhv11v.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160605_211900_zpsjgbhv11v.jpg.html)
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160605_213055_zps7nvd0wmz.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160605_213055_zps7nvd0wmz.jpg.html)
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"Oh, yeeeeaaaahhhh!!!"
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Good explanation, Pappy.
Here's sumpin else that may be of use to some re bareshaft testing.
I shoot at a BIG "can't miss" target because a bareshaft arrow can sometimes go really wonky on ya and try to fly into left/right field ..... beginning your bareshaft testing at 6-7 yd shooting distance is good advice. As ya get arrows seeming to fly straight at 6-7 yd, move back to 10-12 yd and observe. When arrow shooting straight at 10-12, move back to 15. I stop at 15. Some folk go back to 20.
Another reason for BIG target is so ya can concentrate on watching arrow's flight, rather than focusing on hitting a spot. I don't completely trust how shaft is stuck in target to tell me degree of left/right nock. Instead, I watch how it flies. Reason is because my targets tend to be too shot up to trust how shaft sticks outta target.
Last, shoot an arrow multiple times before deciding how it's flying. Release can really affect bareshaft flight, so ya don't want to make decisions based on just one shot.
Oh, yeah ...... here's Kool Aid color chart for the feather dyeing.
http://www.dyeyouryarn.com/kool-aid.html
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Thanks for the info Knoll. I got a big blob target at the Classic that will be good for bare shaft shooting.
I took the feathers out of the kool-aid and dipped them in a bowl of water before laying them out to dry. I put a second batch in to soak overnight.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160606_231757_zpsxtpz5rvh.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160606_231757_zpsxtpz5rvh.jpg.html)
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Nice build along Clint, can't wait to see the finished product.
Thunder
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colors look vibrant!
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Man them feathers turned out nice. :)
Pappy
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Very cool(ade), Clint. ;D 8)
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By using water in your Kool-Aid you can have a refreshing drink after your feathers are done too!
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Thanks for the build along OO, I really like how your feathers turned out.
Do you cut the quill length wise before sanding them, or just sand it all away? Ed
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By using water in your Kool-Aid you can have a refreshing drink after your feathers are done too!
I find it tastes like chicken ;) ;)
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Thanks for the build along OO, I really like how your feathers turned out.
Do you cut the quill length wise before sanding them, or just sand it all away? Ed
I trim it down a little if the quill is wide. After I sand them I take each one and trim the quill down with a pair of scissors.
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A fellow over here showed me to paper shoot tune bare shafts Clint.Just another version here....lol.A 6' step ladder with butcher paper is taped across an opening of the step in front of your target a couple of yards.A 5 yard shot is made through the paper.You can tell by the rip in the paper which way your shaft is tailing along with the way it sticks into the target.If it's just a tiny hole the size of your shaft that's what you want.Pappys' got it right in tuning the shaft.
The end profile of shaft sticking into target I want is dead center straight but tailing up just slightly.Your looking good so far.Time consuming like said but really rewarding seeing them fly with your buddies shooting or hunting where it really counts.
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I've seen the paper tuning done with modern wheelie bows. I might give that a try if I can't see how the arrows are flying.
I pulled the second batch of feathers out of the same kool-aid mix. I was able to get two runs out of the blue but the orange wasn't as bright on the second run. I mixed up a new batch of kool-aid and put them back in to soak for a while. I had more orange feathers than the blue. That might have been the cause.
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I am really loving this thread. thanks to all and esp. OO.
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I bare shaft very similar to Pappy....
I use a Styrofoam target. Some targets can influence the way the arrow hits. Styrofoam doesn't.
And I use glue on points until I find the right point/combination. Then I usually replace the glue on with a duplex nail of the same weight.
DBar
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Another reason for BIG target is so ya can concentrate on watching arrow's flight, rather than focusing on hitting a spot. I don't completely trust how shaft is stuck in target to tell me degree of left/right nock. Instead, I watch how it flies. Reason is because my targets tend to be too shot up to trust how shaft sticks outta target.
Last, shoot an arrow multiple times before deciding how it's flying. Release can really affect bareshaft flight, so ya don't want to make decisions based on just one shot.
Very good info Mike, I have found the same thing.....
Thanks
DBar
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I use a Styrofoam target. Some targets can influence the way the arrow hits. Styrofoam doesn't.
DBar
Yes! Looking for more styrofoam blocks now.
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I started wrapping the nocks tonight. I did all the orange/black and pink/black arrows. I still need to wrap the blue/black ones. I used heavy duty coat thread. It has a small diameter but is very strong. You can't break it with your hands. When I'm done with all of them I'll soak the thread twice with superglue.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160608_234404_zpseka4uluy.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160608_234404_zpseka4uluy.jpg.html)
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Looking good.
Thread wrap doesn't HAVE to extend up to bottom of nock, huh?
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I have used fishing line and floss with good results for wraps.
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Looking good.
Thread wrap doesn't HAVE to extend up to bottom of nock, huh?
I get the wraps close but not at the very bottom of the groove. I haven't had one break yet so I guess it's OK.
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All the wrap is really doing is discouraging the wood/boo from splitting so getting right up to the bottom is not necessary, if it's going to split in the mm between the bottom and the wrap then you had a problem before you even started on that shaft, lol.
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I drill out the nock end of the cane and glue in a inch long hardwood dowel before I cut my nock. This way the hardwood dowel eliminates the need for wrapping by making the shaft solid. I do the same on the point end.
I have shot my cane arrows a good bit and never had one split.
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I got the rest of the nocks wrapped. I put a couple drops of superglue on the thread and spin in against my finger to smooth it out. I use a latex glove to keep it from sticking to my finger. When it dries I put a second coat on them. I plug the point end like Eric does. I bought some tiny dowel rods yesterday.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160611_075910_zpscmcwzgxj.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160611_075910_zpscmcwzgxj.jpg.html)
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Looking Good. Are you wrapping the nocks freehand or on an arrow lathe? I found that when I used CA on nock wrapping it left it so abrasive that it tore the skin off my fingers :'( :'(. Does spinning them with the rubber gloves stop that?
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I wrap them by hand. Spinning them on my finger smooths the superglue.
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I drilled the ends of the shafts out with a 1/8" drill bit and glued in a dowel for a plug. Now I will be able to taper them for points.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160614_225623_zpsohijaen8.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160614_225623_zpsohijaen8.jpg.html)
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Looking good bud!
Patrick
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To many other projects are slowing this one down a little. I did get the arrows tapered and put some field points on a few of them. When I shot them they all entered the target at an angle like this.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160620_202508_zpszy7gdml4.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160620_202508_zpszy7gdml4.jpg.html)
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Clint bare shafting is pretty simple, like was said you do need to be consistent on anchor, but I just leave them pretty long, and what ever tip weight I plan on using. Then get close, say 7 or 8 yards, line up straight with the target, shoot, for a right handed shooter if the arrow hits the target leaning left it is to weak, cut it off a bit, if it is really bad left slant , cut maybe and inch to start, just keep doing that until it hits in the target straight, maybe a little nock high. As you get closer be sure to shoot it more than once and take off less at a time. If it hits with a right slant you will have to add point weight or sand the shaft to weaken it up. You can make a really nice set of flying arrows by doing them one at a time. It takes time but to me well worth it. If I see anything but nock when I shoot and arrow I ant happy with it. :)
Pappy
Looks like what your dealing with. Great post and learning a lot!
Tracy
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That doesn't surprise me one bit Clint also keep track of which way you have them on bow, you might flip it over and have it shoot good. Have to make sure you turn it right direction when you fletch it
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keep track of which way you have them on bow, you might flip it over and have it shoot good. Have to make sure you turn it right direction when you fletch it
+1
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Clint when your arrows enter the target nock left like you have there, that means your arrows are under spined. You could either reduce point weight, or shorten the shaft until it enters your target straight.
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Thanks for all the help guys. I spent most of the day messing with bare shaft tuning the arrows. I got some interesting results. I marked one side of the nocks so I could tell which side I had on top. On some shafts that really made a difference. I found out that the shafts are over spined for most of my target selfbows in the 45 lb range. Even when I left them the full 33" long. About half of the shafts shot straight out of a Pearly bow that I traded for at Marshall. It's marked 45 lbs @ 27" but it feels much heavier than that. I plan on using that bow to hunt with this fall so I set aside those shafts. Since the other shafts are to heavy spined for my other selfbows I decided to try them out of 2 FG recurves that I have. One is a short and heavy poundage bow and the other is a longer and lighter weight bow. This is where things got interesting. The remaining shafts showed they where to weak spined for the longer light weight bow. When I shot them out of the short heavy bow some shot straight and some were to stiff. Both bows are center shot. That really confused me. I can't figure out why they are weak spined for the lighter weight bow. There is probably a 10 lb difference in draw weight. I found half a dozen shafts that shot well out of the short recurve and set those aside. The remaining shafts will need to be shortened to fit the longer recurve. This is the first time I've ever tested shafts like this. It was a real eye opener for me. Usually I just spine them and cut them to 28".
My taper tool kept chattering on the bamboo shafts. It left a very rough surface. I bought a taper gauge block from Ed Neat at the Classic. I don't have any round sanding discs so I had to make it work on the belt. I used a hot glue gun with gorilla glue sticks to put the field points on the shafts. It seems to work really good. I tried pulling a few points off with pliers and they wouldn't budge. It was a lot easier than using that amber colored hot melt glue.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160701_144155_zps4co4rx5s.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160701_144155_zps4co4rx5s.jpg.html)
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I forgot to ask about helical fletching. I normally use a straight jig. I have both left and right handed. I would like to use one of those jigs on these arrows. Does one shoot better out of a RH bow? Does it matter what wing feathers I use?
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Very interesting Osage. Curious if anyone has any answers for you about your bare shaft test results.
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Are the FG bows center shot? That may make a difference. I've never dealt with a center shot bow so I'm not sure what happens when you use heavy or light arrows in one. I've read that as long as you use the left feather in the left jig and vice versa it doesn't matter whether the bow is left or right.
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Both FG bows are center shot.
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. . . as long as you use the left feather in the left jig and vice versa it doesn't matter whether the bow is left or right.
+1, and all feathers on given arrow from same side of bird.
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pm sent.
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OO......I'd just make a set of shafts for the bow your going to hunt with that shoot good for you like you did,and it sounds like the rest can be used for self bows too.Just need the spine lowered that's all.
You probably know this but you did'nt mention type of string being used.Probably the same but I know myself when shooting FF string I need about a 5# stiffer spine on shafts than with B50 string.Or in other words FF string used bends the shaft more than B50 does because it is a stiffer string hitting home.A 50# bow using B50 string shoots good with a shaft in the 45# range.A 50# bow using FF string shoots good with a shaft in the 50# spine range.About a 5# difference.Should be noticeable @ a 20 yard shot.Off non center shot self bows.
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That's good to know I've been thinking about trying some ff string on my HHB bow. It doesn't stretch like B-50 either does it? Maybe not right thread for this but does flimish twist stretch more than endless loop? It's always kinda agrivateing shooting about the 1st 300 arrows have to keep shortening or twisting string to keep brace height. Release is harder to get consistent on low draw weight bow also. High draw weight you just start to relax and the weight does the rest.
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You might be on to something Beadman. I made the string for the lighter weight recurve. I used FF. The shorter heavy bow had a good string on it when I traded for it. I don't know what it's made out of.
BJ, I make flemish twist strings and stretch them on a jig. I stretch them much tighter than they get on a bow. It squeezes the extra wax out of the string. I never have any string movement once I put a new string on a bow. I'll try to find a picture of my string jig.
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That would be cool Osage. Sounds like a good idea.
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Found it. I have holes drilled in the 2x4 so it's adjustable. When I'm tillering a bow I keep shortening my tillering string until I get it to full brace. I measure the length of my tillering string. After I make the new string for the bow I'll stretch it until I get the exact length I need. JI'll remove as much excess wax as I can when its stretched tight. Then I take a piece of leather and run it back and forth real quick to set the remaining wax in the string.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/string%20jig_zpsosislw6m.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/string%20jig_zpsosislw6m.jpg.html)
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Like it nice and simple
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OO......Nice set up there.That's pretty much the way I make a string for a new bow too.On a 2X4 7' long.Only I use nails for the different lengths.Using length of tillering string at brace on newly tillered bow to make that exact same length for my 2 loop string.Kind of cumbersome compared to the little jigs out there but it works for me too.
I beg to differ with you about B50 not stretching even after you put the stretch on it though compared to FF.Just my opinion.I don't think it's like linen where it takes a stretched set then stays the same.It relaxes after being unstrung and stretches again during the draw.That's why those more extreme turkish bows just shoot B50 most times opposed to FF.The tips will blow apart with FF.
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Sorry Beadman. I wasn't referring to B-50 when I said my strings don't stretch. I only use FF, D-97, and a couple other high performance strings. I haven't used B-50 in years.
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. . . FF string used bends the shaft more than B50 does because it is a stiffer string hitting home.
Never considered string making diff. Thanks, Ed.
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I know this is late, but using a latex gloves to spin against instead of just wetting my finger, works amazing! Thanks- Brendan
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Yes it does. If you don't have a glove you can put a ziploc bag over your finger. It works also.
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I finished fletching the dozen arrows for the Pearly selfbow I've been shooting. I went with a RW helical. I burnt the fletching into a shield cut. Then I wrapped them with heavy outdoor thread and soaked that 2x with liquid superglue. I spun it on my gloved finger to smooth out the superglue. This batch is done now.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160703_153312_zpsg4t79hfw.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160703_153312_zpsg4t79hfw.jpg.html)
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160703_153359_zpsnxribn7z.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160703_153359_zpsnxribn7z.jpg.html)
They fly very straight and group good. They are hitting a little left and low from my point of aim. My arm is sore from throwing a softball to much yesterday. I know I'm not getting the string back as far as I was when I bare shaft tested them. I'm going to shoot them tomorrow and see if I can get the string back farther.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160703_154724_zpsfskabe5h.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160703_154724_zpsfskabe5h.jpg.html)
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160703_154736_zpskfxyzgtq.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160703_154736_zpskfxyzgtq.jpg.html)
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Mighty fine look'n set of arra's you got there.......:) ;)
DBar
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That looks like a nice group Osage good looking arrows
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Nice arrows Clint and a nice build along.
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Those arrows look great and so does that "bargan basement" priced bow lol. That guy just didn't know what he had😜
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Thanks guys.
Bubby, So you are saying that bow was worth an arm guard and a quiver? I haven't made up my mind yet on if that was a good trade or not (http://rabbittalk.com/images/smilies/cheesy%20smile.gif) I guess I'll decide this fall when I take it to the woods.
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Sweet!! I like the blue fletch and blue painted ones the best.
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On the shafts you left full length and said they were still a little stiff did you try sanding them down to reduce spine?
I was always under the impression that you should not do that with bamboo but every once in awhile I hear someone say you can. I have never tried. What's your guy's thoughts on that?
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Paul, I did not try sanding any of the shafts.
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Thanks guys.
Bubby, So you are saying that bow was worth an arm guard and a quiver? I haven't made up my mind yet on if that was a good trade or not (http://rabbittalk.com/images/smilies/cheesy%20smile.gif) I guess I'll decide this fall when I take it to the woods.
Maybe an arm guard, quiver and a tab😈
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mighty fine lookin arra's buddy
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Fine looking set of arrows Clint that fly right for ya.Colorful.Very good build-a-long too.Easy to follow.Nicely wrapped up front for off the knuckle shooters too.I should do that too.I duco my feathers on putting an extra dot of glue up front and back right now yet.
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Thanks guys.
Beadman, I started wrapping the front of my feathers after I had one dig in to my hand. I had to pull a piece out with pliers.
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Ouch!!!!!!Guess if a person shoots enough that area on the knuckle could get callused?????.....ha ha ha ha.
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I think the string makes a bigger difference on arrow spine than I ever realized. I looked at both of the FG bow strings today and could tell a big difference in thickness. The string on the left is on the light weight recurve. I made it out of FF and I think it is 10 strands with padded loops. The string on the right was on the heavy recurve when I got it. I'm guessing its B-50 and probably 16 strands. It's got a lot of twist to it and its a lot louder. I always thought that was because if was so short. I bet the string has more to do with the noise than the bow length. The difference in strings is the only thing I can think of that might affect the spine so much. I had to cut 3" off of the shafts to get them to fly straight out of the lighter weight recurve. Thanks for all the help guys. I've learned a lot from this set of arrows.
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/Outlawstaves/20160705_211419_zpsxpaentnn.jpg) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Outlawstaves/media/20160705_211419_zpsxpaentnn.jpg.html)
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Thanks for sharing it with us Osage I know I learned a lot from it too.
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OO.....I'm always using FF plus.9 strands worth.3 ply my flemish twist.I saw a significant difference on my arrow spine and flight when switching from B50 on my bows.Made my bows even quieter too.Hope it helped you match those arrows up to your bows.
I was shooting with a new bow shooter at a 4th of July celebration and he was starting out with a compound of course.Carbides too of course.He could'nt believe what I had in the quiver.Tonkin,dogwood,sourwood,douglas fir,walnut etc.Some people just can't take the tougher route in arrow making or feel the need to I guess.To me it makes a person get to understand deeper yet all about archery which this site does a superb job of with the mentors on here.
Again nice job on your shafts.Looks like you've made enough to lose a few and be alright.......ha ha ha .
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Good job on those arrows Clint. Dave will love those blue died feathers
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Good job on those arrows Clint. Dave will love those blue died feathers
Chief Blue Feather ;D
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Very nice arrows! Love the colors on the fletching 😊
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Nice work there Clint! I like the color combo. Thanks for sharing.
Tattoo Dave