Author Topic: Improving ABO tools  (Read 12131 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline iowabow

  • member
  • Member
  • Posts: 4,722
Re: Improving ABO tools
« Reply #15 on: December 22, 2015, 10:54:51 am »
I went into the garage this morning and worked up this demo for you. It shows three phases of thinning.  I have will have a couple more thinning passes after this as well so let's say 5. So you are seeing 1-3 ,the base is three and just up from that is 2 ,the thickest is 1 and then back to 3 at the tip. If you look closely at the base you can see me switching to a continuous platform that is sharp and strong with good convexity. This is important without it I can't reach 3 or ever think of 4 or 5. Antler direct and hammer stone untill 3 then mix ishi with antler. 4  is ishi then careful work with hand pressure flakers. Touch up edge with ulna. Hope this helps.
« Last Edit: December 22, 2015, 11:24:32 am by iowabow »
(:::.) The ABO path is a new frontier to the past!

Offline jkyarcher

  • Member
  • Posts: 64
Re: Improving ABO tools
« Reply #16 on: December 23, 2015, 09:30:23 pm »
thanks again for the info and pics. very interesting I haven't tried the indirect percussion before but interesting.

I might try it sometime.

Offline iowabow

  • member
  • Member
  • Posts: 4,722
Re: Improving ABO tools
« Reply #17 on: December 23, 2015, 10:35:08 pm »
thanks again for the info and pics. very interesting I haven't tried the indirect percussion before but interesting.

I might try it sometime.
I am sorry I forgot to say it was all direct.
(:::.) The ABO path is a new frontier to the past!

Offline Hummingbird Point

  • Member
  • Posts: 147
Re: Improving ABO tools
« Reply #18 on: December 24, 2015, 02:09:07 pm »
jkyarcher,

Okay, now I just feel dumb for my earlier response.  Let me try again.  Yes, copper is easier, there are plenty of "abo" knappers out there that do all the percussion work "abo" then use copper for pressure.  The key thing with antler is to have a good, hard piece.  Antler is harder on the outside and softer in the middle, so when grinding antler to make or to reshape a pressure flaker, grind to one side, keeping the outside layer of the antler as the working tip.  The tip does need to have a little roughness to it, though, or it will slip too much. A brand new antler tip needs that outer layer scuffed up a little.  Make sure the pressure flaker stays very dry.  Even humidity will make it "gummy" and less effective.  Store the tool inside.  If knapping in a humid environment, you can run a lighter over the antler tip for a few seconds from time to time to dry it back out.  I am convinced that in the old days, even on the hottest days, the knappers had a small fire going to keep their antler tools dry. A fatter, blunt type tip works well on obsidian and heat treated stone, but a more pointed end seems to work better on tougher materials.  I do like a long handle, Ishi stick type style, but you will never get an antler tipped Ishi stick to deliver anywhere near the powere of these modern copper tipped Ishi sticks.

Keith

AncientTech

  • Guest
Re: Improving ABO tools
« Reply #19 on: December 28, 2015, 01:28:03 pm »
I would have to agree with Keith about the possible use of fire.

There was a world class knapper who was born during the 19th century, who could probably outknap any modern knapper alive.  When he was asked about using fire, with regard to the "fire and water" knapping method (which was a common belief during the 19th century) he would never answer people.  The reason why is because he did use fire.  But, he did not use fire in the fire and water knapping method.  He used fire on pieces on antler, if he wanted to create a heavily rippled flake scar style, as seen in some old points.

In communicating about this with the late Philip Churchill, Philip offered the opinion that by briefly holding the tip of the antler over a flame, the heat caused the moisture to evaporate.  And, this would have rendered the tip harder than a moist tip.  Naturally, a harder flaker tip would lead to more rippled flake scar patterns. 

Anyway, this knapper would never affirm that he used fire.  Most likely, he did not want other people to know how he was making his points.  Obviously, the money would be gone if everyone followed in his footsteps.  But, he did finally admit that he did use fire, only not in the manner that people may have suspected. 

Since learning this, I have "heat treated" my antler flakers, from time to time, over an open flame.  I do this if they become damp.  From what I can tell, it seems that a brief firing does quickly make the antler harder.

Also, everyone should thank the moderators that this information can even be posted.  I was told by other moderators on other forums that no one is interested in how Native Americans carried out their flintknapping practices.  Even the Native American methods that can potentially produce late stage outrepasse, are not being discussed, much less looked at.  Everyone should be thankful that this is one of the few places where the discussion of evidence-based flintknapping is actually allowable.   

Offline mullet

  • Global Moderator
  • Member
  • Posts: 22,909
  • Eddie Parker
Re: Improving ABO tools
« Reply #20 on: December 28, 2015, 05:44:27 pm »
Ancient Tech, this site isn't like the other ones. All tips are welcome, it gives someone something else to try.
Lakeland, Florida
 If you have to pull the trigger, is it really archery?

Offline Hummingbird Point

  • Member
  • Posts: 147
Re: Improving ABO tools
« Reply #21 on: December 28, 2015, 06:29:36 pm »
Oh, I just remembered this, and it may come into play with antler knapping tools:  Last fall at House Mountain Scott Silsby did a quick demo on using antler chisels to cut a mortise in a wood handle to haft a celt.  He explained that two chisels are needed and, ideally, a child is available to act as an assistant.  After a few minutes of use the chisel gets handed off to the assitant who's job it is to rub the working end on a piece of leather vigorously enough to cause the antler to heat up from friction.  This results is a hard, sharp edge ready to got back to cutting wood. I need to try that, at least on my pressure flakers.

Keith