Author Topic: how to tie on an arrowhead? (Read 44580 times)

Mark Anderson · « **Reply #15 on:** January 04, 2011, 02:22:51 pm »

Quote from: sa on January 03, 2011, 11:31:09 pm

i made some field tips with artificial sinew but after 6 or so shots the sinew starts to frey on the tip . how can i stop that?

Smear some more super glue on it and smooth it down. Work fast or you'll be stuck like crazy.
Mark

_Jon_ · « **Reply #16 on:** January 05, 2011, 11:55:02 am »

I tried artificial sinew and had the same trouble. I got some advice from some friends and if you use trueoil over superglue it will help keep it from breaking down the strands in artificial sinew. However I switched to using real sinew and that works a whole lot better in my opinion. The neat thing about real sinew is as it drys it shrinks tightening everything up nicely. I use real sinew now to wrap my nocks and feathers also. I just got a ton of it from a buddy of mine in the UP.

Pappy · « **Reply #17 on:** January 06, 2011, 07:58:59 am »

I agree with most of the above,I have tried artificial sinew and it will work in a pinch but real sinew is mush better in my opinion. If you don't mind chewing it,it works even better than soaking it.I use back strap sinew for this,I am sure any would work but back strap is longer on white tail than the leg and that is all I have access to on a regular basic. I then seal over it after it is good and dry with tru oil and you are good to go. No freying. I have a good friend that only uses artificial sinew and he dose the same as Mark,I just don't like the bother.

Pappy

andy thomas · « **Reply #18 on:** January 07, 2011, 11:09:14 am »

wow guys those are some nice looking arrows

iowabow · « **Reply #19 on:** January 07, 2011, 11:42:39 am »

Question that I would like some input on. I can identify 3 functions of the sinew 1: hold the very tip of the wood together in the even that the shoulder of the pine pitch breaks this keep the wood from separating at the tip of the wooden part of the arrow. 2: warps of sinew around the notches in the arrowhead that continue to the shaft then hold the arrowhead on in the shaft (because if only warped at the tip then the arrowhead could separate from the shaft), 3: warps of a 1/2 inch on the shaft prevent the arrowhead from splitting the halving due to impact. I want to have a good functional agreement before I move to my next question. Does everyone agree on the function or are there more?

Pat B · « **Reply #20 on:** January 07, 2011, 12:03:52 pm »

I don't quite understand #1 but yes for #2 and #3.

Pappy · « **Reply #21 on:** January 07, 2011, 12:09:08 pm »

I'm with Pat.

Pappy

iowabow · « **Reply #22 on:** January 07, 2011, 05:00:56 pm »

OK 1 is the end or top of the halving, the gap between the stone and the wood could get material into it and cause it to split so the sinew that is wrapped around the arrowhead keeps it from splintering off. I know i am over thinking this but I have a point or would like to discuss the best way to wrap so that all 3 are done with the best practice. I thought that you all have so many great ideas that maybe we could demo it. For example do you wrap three times around or once then do you cross and warp the shaft and then back to the notches. basically I was wondering if you guys could share your process. I will photo how I do it and then maybe someone has has a better or good idea could also share their technique. I just want to make sure we agreed the 3 main goals first.

Pat B · « **Reply #23 on:** January 07, 2011, 05:26:09 pm »

I usually get the wrap started on the shaft below the head then cross to the notch and around the shaft and cross the other direction and a few turns around between the noches and back down to and around the shaft. Then I take another piece of sinew and wrap around what I already wrapped on the shaft and down the shaft an inch or so.
I chew the sinew to get it soft. While I'm making the first wrap I'm chewing the second one. When the wrapping is done I lick my fingers and squeeze as I go around the wrap. The sinew and saliva makes its own glue so no other glue or tying is needed. When it is completely dry I seal the wrap with pine varnish. I have also used TBIII, Duco cement and super glue to seal sinew wraps.

iowabow · « **Reply #24 on:** January 07, 2011, 11:27:31 pm »

ok I will try to do some drawing of that and post them

JackCrafty · « **Reply #25 on:** January 08, 2011, 02:23:20 am »

Sinew by itself works OK. Glue by itself works better than sinew. But the combination of glue and sinew works GREAT. The style of the arrowhead also determines how it will be attached.

One purpose of the arrowhead to is provide a way to put a hole into the target and cause bleeding and/or puncture trauma. It only needs to work once, in this case. Eventually, the archer gets to know what the minimum amount of wrapping/glue will allow the arrowhead to do its business.

Also, there are descriptions in the old literature from the frontier that some arrowheads were tied on so that they would become loose in the wound and remain inside the wound or make it very painful to remove. Some arrowheads have only one notch on one side, for example. It was said that this made the arrowhead "turn" inside the wound if the arrow was pulled and caused "extra" misery to one's enemy. So, there are sometimes reasons for an arrowhead to be "imperfectly" attached.

Clear as mud?

iowabow · « **Reply #26 on:** January 08, 2011, 09:11:32 am »

Good input I will include this in the final write up!

iowabow · « **Reply #27 on:** January 08, 2011, 09:30:25 am »

Here is a drawing of how I tie on an arrow head part 1
I hope this make sense

iowabow · « **Reply #28 on:** January 08, 2011, 10:44:34 am »

part 2

iowabow · « **Reply #29 on:** January 08, 2011, 12:07:21 pm »

if this is not a good way to do it please ring in!

Primitive Archer