Author Topic: Finished Black Walnut Mollegabet Board Bow  (Read 5402 times)

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Offline lukelawrence171

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Re: Finished Black Walnut Mollegabet Board Bow
« Reply #15 on: April 23, 2014, 04:56:00 pm »
Maple is more of a better backing almost as good as hickory because it's flexible, cherry from my experience is only good for laminated bows you could try backing black walnut with maple although I would ask around a bit more to see the best wood combos

Offline Arrowind

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Re: Finished Black Walnut Mollegabet Board Bow
« Reply #16 on: April 23, 2014, 09:59:39 pm »
Nice job!  I think the others have said enough about set and so forth.

Maple backed black walnut is a great combo in my opinion.

I have made 4 black walnut bows so far.  two backed with Hickory and two backed with maple.  All have performed well but I like the maple / black walnut combo better.  It's lighter, seems to hold up very well and I think performs better / shoots faster. 

I have not made a maple backed cherry bow yet but have heard some other very experience bowyers say it's one of their favorite if not most favorite combo.

I wouldn't think you would want to use black walnut or cherry as a backing.  Maple is better for that.   I would also suggest using "hard maple" which is also referred to as "Sugar Maple" or "Rock Maple"  If I remember correctly.   Must have straight grain.  The straighter the grain the less your pain.
Talking trees. What do trees have to talk about, hmm... except the consistency of squirrel droppings?

Offline Josh B

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Re: Finished Black Walnut Mollegabet Board Bow
« Reply #17 on: April 24, 2014, 04:10:09 am »
Just to be clear, I'm not saying that maple is not a good backer.  I'm only saying figured maple isn't or any other figured wood for that matter.  Josh

blackhawk

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Re: Finished Black Walnut Mollegabet Board Bow
« Reply #18 on: April 24, 2014, 07:52:52 am »
Yeah..ditto to gun doc....no go using figured wood(its called curly,birds eye,tiger,spalted,etc..)ANY kind of species of wood with these.....I'd even be leary of using it as a belly...I know some who've tried and had it fail or fret on them....IMO that kind of wood is only good for super thin veneers in glass bows(yuck...can't believe I even had to say that..lol ) or handle under n overlays etc where no bending is going on...I am contemplating trying one in a core in a tri lam(making it super thin)....but the jury is still out on that one and is still up to debate in my head....and I think everyone else explained well enough the why's on having smooth radiused transitioning fades