Author Topic: Syringa character bow (updated) (Read 53588 times)

Keenan · « **Reply #90 on:** February 26, 2008, 03:29:17 am »

Thanks Dana and Gordon.
Ok for the next step I have trimmed the skinsand cleaned it up a little. First I wipe the top of the skins down real good with damp rag to remove any of the glue that got on the outside of the skin. You will notice that with sturgeon they will wipe better towards the tail as with most fish. They don't have scale but the bone flake is still directional.
I should have mentioned earlier but didn't think about it, but it is helps to leave the the limbs slightly wide and sharp on the edges. This helps while sanding the edges in. I just sand them lightly on the edge with the belt sander, just enough to cut through the skin and see the wood a little. This way you don't have to sand the belly very much at all.
After I get the edges sanded through, I just peal off the excess on the belly. Then I take the damp rag and wipe off the excess glue. Being carefull not to get the edges of the skin damp. Then wait a day and look for any areas lifting. If I find any lose skin I take super glue and a little awl for a smoother and work the edges down. I sometimes will go along the entire edge with a light coat of super glue and work the whole edge down. It helps to seal it and gives an better line for the finish But if you do, make sure you sand real well to remove any glue on the wood especially if staining or it will show.
After this I take a palm sander and some 150 grit and sand the edges in carefully. Blending in the edge to a slight oval shape. This has just become habit.I think because on one of the first bows that I made I left the edges kind of square and trimmed the snake skins flush to the belly. I noticed after a few years that they wore real bad right on the sharp edge. Since then I have always gone for more of a rounded edge and keep the skins off the edge slightly.

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Keenan · « **Reply #91 on:** February 26, 2008, 03:55:41 am »

From here we need to wait a few days to re-check the tiller and shoot it a little. We put a little moisture in the wood while glueing the wet skins on and wiping down for clean up. This isn't the time to get impatient and string it too early. for now I need to plan out how I'm going to do the handle and also how to hide all the battle wounds on this thing,,,,,,,,,hey there it is

the name for this one has to be "Battle Wounds" When I found this stave, It already had several scars the most obvious is the rub mark that created the brown stained area on the handle. In drying it developed several cracks that I was constantly keeping in check with super glue. And then as if it needed anymore we had the splinter pop on the top of one limb by a node. Some how that wasn't the final rebellion by this piece of wood.As I tried to remove some of the natural deflex near the handle another little sliver popped up. And last but not least there are those pith groves.
Yes this has been a hard fought battle, I seemed to be somewhat stuburn when I think I can make something work out. been this way most of my life and it has cost me dearly at times. Funny how it takes a bow to show me this.
I'm thinking the best way to blend in a few wounds is to stain the limbs. The darker would probably be the better but I like the contrast of the skin and the wood. Maybe a comprimise.

Keenan

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El Destructo · « **Reply #92 on:** February 26, 2008, 04:13:30 am »

I say leave Her White...and let Her Scars give Her Character......thats an Awesome Bow Keenan.....why try and Hide any of it??

Keenan · « **Reply #93 on:** February 26, 2008, 04:35:15 am »

thanks Yankee, Thinking along the same lines but not hiding more of an enhancing. The original rub mark looks so much like a fire flame Im thinking of trying to do something similar with the other scars. $:-\$

Keenan

Hillbilly · « **Reply #94 on:** February 26, 2008, 10:17:49 am »

Keenan, looking great. I really like those antler tips, may have do some plagiarizing .

Keenan · « **Reply #95 on:** February 26, 2008, 12:09:17 pm »

Thanks Hillbilly,

They can be duel purpose,,,, if you aren't nocked and ready it dubbles as a spear,,

Keenan

juniper junkie · « **Reply #96 on:** February 26, 2008, 01:39:22 pm »

looking good Keenan, hope you can shoot it wed night. we are having pizza

and starting next week will be shooting 3Ds instead of paper.

Keenan · « **Reply #97 on:** February 26, 2008, 04:05:24 pm »

Way cool Dave thanks for the heads up. I doubt that one will be ready, maybe ready to string but the thought of me trying to hit 3Ds off the finger, no shelf or handle wrap, no nock point and left handed to boot,,,,,,wow, your really trying for an inside edge this week,,

Keenan

Pat B · « **Reply #98 on:** February 27, 2008, 03:10:56 am »

Cool bow Keenan. You are an inspiration.

Pat

Gordon · « **Reply #99 on:** February 27, 2008, 03:14:50 am »

Keenan, I tried your technique of using the belt sander to trim the excess off of a reawhide backed bow. It worked great - thank you buddy!

Keenan · « **Reply #100 on:** February 27, 2008, 04:08:13 pm »

Pat, thank you and back at ya

Gordon, glad to here it.

What are you working on now?

Keenan

Gordon · « **Reply #101 on:** February 27, 2008, 10:27:47 pm »

Quote

What are you working on now?

Oh just a short little osage recurve for a friend of mine who recently had neck surgery and can't pull a lot of weight. He's got a long draw so I'm shoring the back up with rawhide.

Pappy · « **Reply #102 on:** February 29, 2008, 08:37:53 am »

Good idea on the belt sander,I've been using a file then a scraper on snake and rawhide
backing.The leaving it a little wider is also a good idea,especially with me and the belt sander.

Looking good.Can't wait to see it finished.

Pappy

Keenan · « **Reply #103 on:** March 08, 2008, 12:14:22 am »

Ok back on this one. Been sanding and checking tiller from time to time. The tiller stayed just about the same after ading the skins and I think it added a few pounds to the draw weight.
Shot it in some, but finding that difficult because I'm right handed and it 's a lefty and the way this handle is angled makes it hard to shoot right handed.
On a bow with drastic dips, dives and curves you need to look more at what is moving and overall limb shape and not as much in having every part perfectly the same. It just wont happen on some serious character bows. Just try to get as much of the limb working as you can.
I decided to try something different on this finish. As I said befor there are alot of battle wounds on the bow and some natural spalting where the rub scar was so I'm going to try to imitate the spalting by useing the feathered edge of a rag dipped in the stain then just lightly broom it on in light streeks. Here is the results. It hid alot of the scars very well. this is just stained with no finish yet. Keenan

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The Burnt Hill Archer · « **Reply #104 on:** March 09, 2008, 02:00:56 pm »

just read through the whole thing...Great work! very humbling. im still struggling with clear strait wood. i do have a couple of lilac bushes that are more like trees now, havnt been pruned in years. might have to try some. im looking forward to seeing it completed.

Phil

Primitive Archer