2016 Primitive Archer Bow Trade Sign up and Information

[PlanB]

Hey, Dubois.

Before Rich's advice, I used to be focused on stopping hinges on either side and getting an even bend in the limb. Now I ignore the weaker limb until tips bend to even level. And keep checking that all the way through.

I used to worry about any soft spot in the weaker limb not being reduced around right away. But you are still taking pressure off of it by reducing the stronger limb, and you are evening out that one in the process. Once tips are even, then you can go back and hit the other limb. Its hinge won't be as bad, and you won't take as much off. That's good because if you did it earlier when it was exaggerated, you might take too much off in evening it, and now that limb would be even weaker than the other. This over-scraping can exaggerate near the end of the tillering process. At least that's how I see it now.

re. mirror on floor tillering:

As a pad on the floor I'm using a  book that's the same size and exactly centered under the handle. I needed that because the reflex makes the tips hit the floor. Definitely makes a difference that everything is centered (pad, foot, scale hook). You can see diff. in the mirror image bend shape when you pull.  I'm seeing more this way than I did with a pulley tiller tree outside. Mirror is about 4 feet from the bow.

It's got me thinking about a more permanent holder with a plywood base and built in pad and handle stop, and a guard above the limbs. Maybe something that folds up with hinges. And a little fold out leg for the separate mirror that sets it at the right angle. The rig could fold up and be put away.

[half eye]

Plan B and the whole group......
      One of the reasons I said this was the best trade ever is because of the way Fred went about it, and the way this whole group responded to that. With everybody actively participating and throwing ideas "out-there" then hopefully we all get to take the bits and pieces of shared knowledge and then develop some techniques that make sense to us. Then that is the best thing that can come out of the entire deal.
    The take-away here (in my opinion anyway) everybody is sharing, using inf to tweek their personal take on it and then we all get to make better bows and feel comfortable at the same time.

    I have strange ways of doing things, but they make sense to me. I aint no bow genius so dont take what I say as some kind of thing needs wrote in stone, but rather hear what I throw out there and use it, forget it, or change it to suit your style and vision. Same goes to any of you fellas.....if ya got something works for you then please share it.  Shared knowledge  will make us all better at this crazy sport.
rich

[DuBois]

?? for you all on lilac.

I have the string coming over the arrow pass area where I want it and am happy I ever got it there . There is an inch or so to cut off each end still.
But
In this side profile you may be able to see, there is a slight deflex in the fades and both limbs do a little wombly thing and then deflex toward the tips. It is all natural and the same on both, and I am tempted to leave it alone, expecially since the knot holes on one end would be right where I would need to heat to bend in reflex.

Are there any bows with this profile intentionally? How do they perform and what do you think on this?

[ajooter]

I would tiller as is man!! Both tips have that same slight reflex and then flatten out.  Should make a nice character piece.

[mwosborn]

Hey DuBois -

Is the stave in your pic belly up or belly down? I am assuming belly down     Even with the slight deflex at the end, the tips seem to be in front of the handle a bit to me.  The tips will be stiff anyway so.....  I would tiller it the way it is.

Mitch

[DuBois]

One observation.
I have had a few lilac sticks that seem very dense like osage and they have all been small diameter. This one is from an older bush that was large for lilac and it has very little crown.

It does not seem as dense to me and I wonder if lilac changes as it get nearer to end of life?

It is healthy wood but feels lighter; somewhere between ERC and osage.

I'm gonna keep track of this for future reference.

[DuBois]

Belly down Mitch.
Ok, 2 for, less work, I will go for it.

[half eye]

I'm with Ajooter and Mr. MW.....PICK THAT PEACH !!!!!

The only thing I could see as a possiblity is to maybe heat a slight sharp reflex in the center like the precursor of a gull-wing......nowhere near what ya did on your last osage   and for what it's worth a lot of cultures in the arctic and sub-arctic regions all around the earth used forms of deflexed tips.
rich

[Swampman]

Dubois, I am with everyone else so far, tiller it as is.  Should make for an interesting bow.

[PlanB]

I like Rich's added reflex at handle.

[Fred Arnold]

One of the things I like about branch bows is the character. I'd run with it.

[turtle]

Dubois.....Go with it as is. Just remember that the deflexed tips will make it stack at a shorter draw than if they were straight.

[half eye]

hey guys,
     here is a teaser pic of the 2 Penobscot trade bows. Dont want to say too much but the bottom bow is in the pics as a comparison and is about 45#....guess ya just got to speculate as to what the other 2 are gonna be.....my bad
rich

[willie]

Once tips are even, then you can go back and hit the other limb. Its hinge won't be as bad, and you won't take as much off

I like your approach to that, PB

Btw. seeing the bend for what it is, can be tricky sometimes. I moved my tiller tree because I discovered my judgement was better from a greater viewing distance.....

[PlanB]

So cool, Rich!

Willie, not mine, got that from Mr. half eye.
re. close mirror I'm thinking now it is best for before full brace, and my tree on the shed will be better after. Been going slow on this one so, not even to full brace yet.