Question on bow nocks

[WillS]

You can make some heads now as well then

I've been forging Type 16s the past few weeks.  You need a grinder for those!

[Ruddy Darter]

Nice,  they take some doing... I've not really considered the arrow-smithing side of things. It seems a tad too involving for me at present,  and probably a craft I'd need to be shown in person.  Fire and combustibles and such a totally alien field for me,  thoroughly rewarding though,  no doubt. 
(shame on me,  my Great Grandfather was a farrier too )

 R.D.

[Del the cat]

Errrrrr which Holmgaard bow?  I wasn't aware there was only one 

I think you'll find they had tied on nocks, as with Otzis bow and the MR elm bow probably.  Somewhat irrelevant to this discussion unless you're desperate to pick holes. 

You can have the Meare Heath bow if it makes you feel better

I have no interest in feeling better or picking holes..
It was you that wrote
"... every single European bow found before the Victorian period had sidenocks, not just the MR bows.  ..."
Not me.
If you don't want posts corrected, then proof read what you write, and make sure it is correct.
Tied on nocks etc are still not "sidenocks"
If you meant Warbows... state Warbows... (yes I know it is the warbow forum)...  but your statement was incorrect.

This site has a reputation for good advice and accurate information.
Am I not allowed to correct a factual error because you wrote it?

I have never once criticised your posts about arrows because I recognise your expertise and it is not my area of knowledge.

If you don't want to be corrected, don't post incorrect statements.
A simple response of " Sorry I meant Warbows" would have been a suitable response to my post.
Now go and sit on the naughty step and thing about what you wrote.
Del

[WillS]

Ahhh I missed the insane pedantry and pissing contests of this place. I've been away too long 

[Ruddy Darter]

Got it done, pretty simple and hope I got it even enough.
  I thought I'd watch a health and safety YouTube video for bench grinder operation with accident pics through poor use,  managed to scare my socks off and wasn't looking forward to using it. (glad I watched it though, not something to be careless with. I doubt I'll use it much but good to know what to look out for).

 R.D.

[stuckinthemud]

Take off the bench grinder shrouds, put them on backwards (I know, it sounds stupid), now your wheel direction is reversed, sparks go up/forwards (wear eye protection!) BUT the work cannot 'catch' the wheel and pull you into the machine, nor can it 'catch' and pull down into your femoral artery/jump out of your hands and impale your toes - all it can do is bounce and skip on the wheel. Also, it cannot 'catch' and chip the thing you are grinding, if your doing something delicate like re-grinding a chisel. Some people find the shrouds a PITA and take them off to allow access to the whole of the wheel allowing easy changes of angle of attack, but I would never advocate removing a valuable H+S innovation 

By the by, why are you grinding horn? It's super soft and a very course emery cloth, or decent rasp, or even a nice sharp whittling knife (or all of the above) has always worked for me

[WillS]

I just set those work platforms as close as possible, and ALWAYS rest the work on them.  Impossible for the wheel to bite/kick them downwards that way, and sparks flying upwards is always a risk.  It is nice having them running backwards for sharpening blades however.

You got the shape spot on, it's that nice piked profile the originals have.

Agree with Stuck about the horn - bit of practice and a sharp knife (kept sharp with the grinder ) gets them shaped and finished beautifully.  You can even polish them with a knife which is nice.  I've never liked those super shiny, over-polished nocks as they're so un-medieval.  A good scrape and a rub of wax and you're good!

[Ruddy Darter]

 Hi stuckinthemud, WillS,   I only use the bench grinder to shape the flat drill bit, I'm not going to shape horn on it at all (it's also advised not to grind soft materials,  including soft metals,  with these wheels,  can clog the wheel and cause other hazards according to the manufacturer.) 
I sharpen all my chisels and bladed tools by hand with different grade diamond sharpening stones and would probably only use the grinder for chipped or broken edged tools and then finish with the stones. It's not something I will use often. (Why I bought the cheapest available .).
To shape the horn nock I will use knife,  rasps, (coping saw works nice to rough shape and take large bits off easily)  scrape smooth with Stanley blade and fine sanding cloth, like you advise.
I tested out the shaped drill bit on some wood and works o.k,  the hole diameter is bang on 12mm.
(I'm waiting on some horn I've ordered.)
Thanks,
 
 R.D.

[WillS]

Cracking job,  well done!

I found that as soon as I had a bench grinder, I was using it for so much more than I thought I would!

[stuckinthemud]

I pretty much only used my bench grinder for sharpening gouges - I put on some decent honing wheels - and running reversed wheels was pretty much essential but then I discovered the power-file and my grinder never saw the light of day again

[Ruddy Darter]

Thank you WillS,
I dare say it's going to come in handy,  but after watching that H&S YouTube video (  ), it's not gonna be the first bit of kit I reach for unless I need to  , that really stuck in my mind.
Stuckinthemud,  the wheels on this grinder are too aggressive for my chisels/gouges, I like to get the edges on mine like a mirror with my diamond stones and water and finish them with a leather strop with some compound rubbed in.
I see a jig attachment you can get special for angled gouges/chisels that looks the business,  if I ever get finer grade wheels for this I'd definitely try and get one of those,  got a bit used to doing it by hand though and quite enjoy it,  gives me a break and some relaxing ponder time. 


 R.D.
 
 

[stuckinthemud]

I fitted a ruby grindstone and a rubber wheel to float chrome paste-polish - gives an absolutely outstanding edge - when I was teaching carving I needed to grind and hone blades in a hurry in every class but I have to say that a power file gives an edge as good as a water stone or diamond stone provided you use a gentle touch

[Ruddy Darter]

Right,  that sounds a good set up. I certainly see the pros if you have to sharpen a lot quickly to a high standard.
Automation always gets me nervous though, I've done myself enough mischief manually,  being the clumsy clod I am at times (painful truth),  adding machinery I could quite possibly become an extra in one of those H&S videos.   
Those powerfiles do look pretty good, when I'm a bit flush I might buy one of those.

 R.D. 

[WillS]

I remember seeing that intricate hand carved bow stand you posted on the EWBS forum a few years ago, that was quite a bit of work! 

I think the only power tool I own is an electric hand planer, and even that doesn't come out unless I've got a knot-filled log to reduce down a lot.  Sod going through knots with an axe!

[Ruddy Darter]

The're blinkin' noisy things aren't they, if a power planer is the same thing,  I had a borrow of one once and what a mess I had to clear up,  spewed shavings everywhere... Don't know if it was just the one I used that's messy. Gets it down quick and even though,  got to say.
 
 R.D.