Compound(spits on the ground)

[DC]

Are compounds easier to learn to shoot reasonably well? I ask because when I started going to the range there was a few other starting up. They went the compound route and now 6 or 8 months later they all have 2 or 3" groups and I'm still spraying them all over the hall. Is it just me?

[paulsemp]

If you want easy and instant results I can guarantee you took the wrong path.

[Pat B]

+1

[DC]

Soooo, selfbows are harder? That would make me feel a lot better.

[Pappy]

Much much harder but also much more rewarding. Pappy

[sleek]

Id say it may not be you, but your arrows.  If they dont match your bow you wont hit where you are looking. Compounds, they are such that you decide nt need to practice and you can group almost perfect every time. Very good at what they are designed as, arrow shooting machines.

[DC]

Thanks guys. I have no desire to try a compound. They are amazing machines and I don't tire of watching them at the range but they don't float my boat.
Yes my arrows probably could be better, but so could my bows, my form, what else is there? I was just checking to make sure that I wasn't a total clutz compared to the other guys.

[Pat B]

I'd venture to say that most folk's shooting problems are arrow problems. The arrow is the most important part of the bow/arrow combo but most folks want to blame the bow for their bad shooting.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Anybody can shoot 2-3" groups with a wheeler in short order. It takes ALOT of work and dedication to cut than in half. Not that a 1" group is any more effective than a 3" group. But if accuracy is something you crave, it matters. I did it back in the day and worked my tail off for a long time to get that good. My bow didn't rest under my bed between seasons.

[bowandarrow473]

wheelie bows have pins, that makes it at least a thousand times easier to see where your arrow will hit. I've shot compound and within the first hour could get 3in groups a thirty yards, within my first hour shooting selfbows I managed to hit the target once or twice at 20 yards. So I think compounds are just more accurate due to the fact that they have pins and a realease system that is practicly fool-proof.

[DC]

You guys are making me fell way better Thanks

[le0n]

i recommend to start with a matched set of arrows for range practicing.

of course you'd have to find what set you need. through trial and error.

go through your current set (i'm assuming they are primitive arrows) and number them sequentially with a piece of masking tape on each one.

go and shoot a few rounds at your target from the same distance, preferably within 10 yards because it's less distance for the arrow to correct its flight.

really focus on your grip, your form and your release. take note note of which arrows get the closest to the bullseye. it may help to write down the results. also, take note of which arrows that penetrate the target at any left/right angle other than dead-on. you'll want to remove those arrows from the quiver unless you have the additional materials to change the weight of the field points. (you'll come back to these for tuning at a later date, so note on the paper which angle they penetrated). if they are penetrating at an up/down angle, you can adjust your knocking point accordingly on your bow string to compensate for that.

you may find that only one or two arrows really make the grade. take those good arrows and shoot a couple more rounds with them. you may then again find that one shoots better than the other.

weigh, measure, spine test that arrow so that you have a record of what shoots best out of that bow. now you can attempt to make that same arrow based on your results. or you can purchase a set of arrows with those specifications and target practice with them to tune your abilities with that bow.

when you have arrows that are matched (or semi-matched) to your bow you can start to compensate for the grip/form/release/aiming errors and really start building your muscle memory for instinctive shooting.

there are a lot of other variables that you can employ, however, these are some quick things that you can easily try without cutting or re-fletching your arrows; and you will end up with valuable results from your testing.

[sleek]

i recommend to start with a matched set of arrows for range practicing.

of course you'd have to find what set you need. through trial and error.

go through your current set (i'm assuming they are primitive arrows) and number them sequentially with a piece of masking tape on each one.

go and shoot a few rounds at your target from the same distance, preferably within 10 yards because it's less distance for the arrow to correct its flight.

really focus on your grip, your form and your release. take note note of which arrows get the closest to the bullseye. it may help to write down the results. also, take note of which arrows that penetrate the target at any left/right angle other than dead-on. you'll want to remove those arrows from the quiver unless you have the additional materials to change the weight of the field points. (you'll come back to these for tuning at a later date, so note on the paper which angle they penetrated). if they are penetrating at an up/down angle, you can adjust your knocking point accordingly on your bow string to compensate for that.

you may find that only one or two arrows really make the grade. take those good arrows and shoot a couple more rounds with them. you may then again find that one shoots better than the other.

weigh, measure, spine test that arrow so that you have a record of what shoots best out of that bow. now you can attempt to make that same arrow based on your results. or you can purchase a set of arrows with those specifications and target practice with them to tune your abilities with that bow.

when you have arrows that are matched (or semi-matched) to your bow you can start to compensate for the grip/form/release/aiming errors and really start building your muscle memory for instinctive shooting.

there are a lot of other variables that you can employ, however, these are some quick things that you can easily try without cutting or re-fletching your arrows; and you will end up with valuable results from your testing.

^ Outstanding advice

[crooketarrow]

  Just shoot and enjoy.

 It's far easy er to see results with compounds. Most people go through the compound thing first. And this isn't a bad thing. You can learn a lot about bow,arrows and yourself. Starting out with easy er compounds.

  But not by far as enjoyable as when you see your own results using a traditional bow. You've mold your mussels to your brain extends to your bow your made.

 With experience and time when you kill your first deer. You'll think why did I wast all those years shooting compounds. I've heard this to many times to remember them all.

  Speed , close groups, all the advertisements, the hype. Is why most people give up quickly and go to or stay with compounds.
 
  Nothing wrong with compounds it comes down to how much you want to put into it.

  My only peeve with compounds is boys your missing out on the very best and enjoyable way to practice. That's just old stump shooting. I realize what happens to a 300 plus feet a second carbon exspess into a old hard wood stump.

  It's just not as fun as just standing at the peg hammering the target over and over all evening across the back yard.  Yea you can shoot 60,70 yards but is this really bow hunting. No it becomes shooting not hunting to me.

  I've shoot 40 (all with in 20 yards) bucks unteen doe's. Longest I can remember is a doe at 22 yards.

   Everyone I killed not my equipment. Mussles, my little mine and a bow and arrow I built,  Dos'nt mean much to a compounder that just walked out of wallmart. Don't wait 10 years start enjoying shooting and leaning to shoot right now.

I've shot traditional over 30 years. If you need PM me I'll be glad to help you all I can.

 

[Thunder]

This is excellent advice...

i recommend to start with a matched set of arrows for range practicing.

of course you'd have to find what set you need. through trial and error.

go through your current set (i'm assuming they are primitive arrows) and number them sequentially with a piece of masking tape on each one.

go and shoot a few rounds at your target from the same distance, preferably within 10 yards because it's less distance for the arrow to correct its flight.

really focus on your grip, your form and your release. take note note of which arrows get the closest to the bullseye. it may help to write down the results. also, take note of which arrows that penetrate the target at any left/right angle other than dead-on. you'll want to remove those arrows from the quiver unless you have the additional materials to change the weight of the field points. (you'll come back to these for tuning at a later date, so note on the paper which angle they penetrated). if they are penetrating at an up/down angle, you can adjust your knocking point accordingly on your bow string to compensate for that.

you may find that only one or two arrows really make the grade. take those good arrows and shoot a couple more rounds with them. you may then again find that one shoots better than the other.

weigh, measure, spine test that arrow so that you have a record of what shoots best out of that bow. now you can attempt to make that same arrow based on your results. or you can purchase a set of arrows with those specifications and target practice with them to tune your abilities with that bow.

when you have arrows that are matched (or semi-matched) to your bow you can start to compensate for the grip/form/release/aiming errors and really start building your muscle memory for instinctive shooting.

there are a lot of other variables that you can employ, however, these are some quick things that you can easily try without cutting or re-fletching your arrows; and you will end up with valuable results from your testing.