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the real ticket is "group tuning"

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TSA:
its ok to cant the bow- but then just remember your results are canted too, dont cant the bow- then try and read vertical results- so imagine a cross hair on the target- just rotate the target until the vertical lines angle matches the cant angle of the bow- make sense?
so when you read it- you can hold it back vertical again and read the quadrants as normal!
I am sure that from some technical point that the gravitational pull hs some effect on one side more than the other when it is canted- but one is starting at 3 yards- and working back from there, i think the variance will, in reality, be so negligible, so as to not warrant any concerns!
good luck mate

Stick Bender:
This is a interesting thread thanks for all the info TSA  the arrows in the pic are for this years hunting bow I ran out of time tuning them before hunting season but that's my average pattern at 20 yards when I bare shafted them they where going to point of aim with the tail slightly high and left they are 55-60s Douglas fir the rear 9 in. is tapered to the knocks so I'm not sure if it's my arrows or my form and release also when bare shaft shooting most times the bow was slightly canted mussel memory hard to over come I'm going to re bare shaft test them & concentrate on keeping the bow strait but I'm shooting the fletched arrows slightly left and low but I'm left eye dominate and shoot right handed on the string & have a tendencies to shoot left tell I spend more time with the bow , the arrows are ok but not totally happy with them I'm shooting 47 lb @29 1/4 FF string the bow is averaging 172 fps 509 grain arrow with these arrows slightly slower @ 520 grain 

TSA:
i too find it very hard to bareshaft with my bow totally vertical, and my question is, if you have your form down with a canted bow- i wonder if your form suffers with the bow vertcal, i mean one might torque the string, or your bow grip may change etc
so what i like to do is shoot the way i am used too, then just view my target  at the same angle. in other words, if you are right handed, and shooting canted, and your arrow shows nock left and a bit nock high, its probably only the spine, and not actually nock high. does that make sense- i am even confused by what i am saying, i think i need to take a few pics ;D

Tail Tapering a shaft really does nothing other than improving the foc, now dont let that sound like its an insignificant thing, its not, any adjustments made  in improving FOC, while not adding to the overall weigh excessively is a good thing!! and thats what tapering will do!
some say it effects the dynamic spine- cant say that i have seen a significant difference!
its not about clearing the fletches from the riser- as bar the first 2 or 3" behind the point, a well tuned shaft will not touch the riser again.

allow me to tell you how effective fletching is :D :D
i shot fletched #55 shafts out of one of my bow for years- i had kinda bareshafted ::), and they shot well, i took deer with them, i shot a ton of stumps with them, there was a slight waggle to them( that usually indicates weak spine) but they shot and grouped well. Until one day i finally watched this bareshafting video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGOPiriLbcM
then went out and bareshafted them properly- now i find my bow needs #70 to #72 shafts- its because i have a 31.5" draw, and when i compare my stats with our spine charts- they match up- go figure !!!! ( chart below for the longbow in attachments)

the biggest external factor that can screw you around when bareshafting, is your form, a small glitch in form, will throw off the bareshafts, especially because you have no fletching to help correct the mistake.
your mistakes will be AMPLIFIED when bareshafting.
also attached another diagramme that may help with form issues when bareshafting, assuming that your spine is correct.
refer to our chart for spine- it is surprisingly accurate. the  chart is for longbows with a shelf- typically glass bows.
we have a self bow one too!
check your real draw length, check the bows draweight at that drawlength- especially if its a self bow, and may have taken a wee bit of set over time.


so to answer you question more to the point than i have above.
1. get an accurate draw length and draw weight
2. check the spine charts
3.get a test kit with shafts above and below that suggested spine group
4.then bareshaft according to the video above

in conclusion, what i am saying ( as i have experienced this first hand ::) ) is make sure all your stats are accurate- otherwise the fletching will correct a multitude of sins.


i will try and get some pics up today of the canting bow/bareshaft tuning issue!

TSA:
yes Loon,
if they were well tuned with the bow vertical, thereafter it wont make a difference on the canting- they are matched to the bow, irrespective of bow angle- just as long as your form stays the same!

Stick Bender:
Thanks for that info TSA it was very telling in my case I'm going to bare shaft again this week end and maybe trime one 1/4 in. To raise the spine a bit and see if there is any improvement in them I was starting to suspect a slightly weak spine my problem is at my 29 1/4 or some times over zealous 29 1/2  and a 1 3/8 thick handle & most arrows only 32 in to start leaves me very little room with out bringing the broad heads close to my finger on my back up bow & the same type tapered arrows & using 50-55s the are absolutely flawless bare shaft or fletched and once you get arrows flying like that it drives you nuts when the rest of your bows don't shoot like that so I'm hoping to get some last minute changes in.

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