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Arrow making process - questions

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bjrogg:
I build my arrows like Wayne. Except most of mine are built from shoot shafts. I think a spine tester is more helpful for this.  It's really not needed if you are building arrows from parallel shafts with already know spines. Like Wayne said the measured spine of a arrow stays the same but the dynamic spine is effected by many things. Length of arrow, point weight, the width of your handle at arrow pass. All of these things effect the dynamic spine or the way a arrow acts like it's spine is. I agree with Wayne spine and weight front of center are the two most important things in my opinion. I know bareshaft testing sounds complicated and it can be time consuming when your not even in the ball park but it is the only way I know of to test Dynamic spine. Bareshaft testing is another whole thread but there are many posts about it here already. I highly recommend at least trying to bareshaft a arrow. I shoot every arrow I make for a bow bareshaft. I know people have complained they broke arrows bareshaft testing. To me if you arrow is so far off that it broke hitting target so much sideways it wasn't ready for fletching anyway and it wasn't the right combination to build a dozen other arrows to that static spine, arrow length, head weight combination. It's a little hard to understand bareshaft test until you try it and see how arrow behaves. Just try shooting arrow without fletching from about six yards. If it flies sideways it's not properly Dynamic Spined to bow. Consistency in form draw and release are important but if you arrow flies sideways you've got bigger problems than form.
I say give bareshaft a try. When you figure out the combination that works for your bow you can repeat it by using spine tester to make another shaft to the same static weight as your properly tuned arrow and then make it the same length and head weight. Then shoot  it bareshaft and see if it flies straight.
I hope that's clear as mud now.
Good Luck for me bareshaft testing was a real eye opener
Bjrogg

bjrogg:
Sorry I posted over top of you FilipT. I think you've got the order right. Not sure how familiar you are with bareshaft testing but you might want to read up on it and don't be afraid to ask questions about it. I would also suggest that you mark your arrows so you know which side you have against arrow pass. Don't want to go through all this and fletch arrow backwards.
Bjrogg

BowEd:
When making shoot shafts I use a sizer also to match my shafts to get them in the ball park of each other.Besides a grain scale and a spiner.Usually shoot shafts like dogwood will be very close to each other in mass weight /spine and diameter.I can get  matched sets of dogwoods then.It's just holes drilled through flat antler of sizes from 9/32"/5/16"/11/32"/23/64"/and 3/8".
Also I've seen type of string can make a difference too.B50 string because of it's stretch usually requires a shaft 5#'s weaker than FF string because of it's stiffness.In short a self bow non center shot using FF string will need a shaft 5#'s stiffer than using B50 string.Sounds confusing but after making enough shafts it's easy to understand.

TSA:
what type of bow do you shoot, and i can put a chart up here for you :)
 that list is pretty much how i do mine.
 but like all things in trad archery, there are a lot of ways to get the job done!
like ed says, there are so many variables which effect dynamic spine, string material, string diameter, string mass, silencers, serving, arrow tail weight, brace height, draw length, shaft diameter, arrow pass, point weight, arrow length, and many more too  :)

Brian is correct imo. bareshafting can be a stumbling block- but its actually quite simple- and once you understand the principle- its such a valuable tool!
here is the best video i have ever seen on the subject>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGOPiriLbcM

mullet:
Thanks, Wayne for posting the link to the video. Very simple and minus all of the mumbo jumbo.

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