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Arrow making process - questions

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TSA:
i have been meaning to redo that spine chart for the longest time.
thanks for the kick in the seat of the pants.
i need to re-do it in word, so that i can save it as a picture- and lose the excel watermark- also a bit fuzzy.
sorry i am a bit of a techno-peasant when it comes to 'puters  ;)
so here goes...

FilipT:
Things are more visible now. So what I see here is that I need for example static spine 45 - 50 for 50# at 28" bow. But since I want my arrow to be lets say 30", than I would need as a reference 50 - 55 spine, am I right?

archeryrob:
Do you have a 30" draw or do you just want 30" arrows? You need to add 5# in spine to the arrow for every inch you increase in length and for every 25 grains of point weight over 125 grains. so if you add 2" you need to got to 55-60. That is a rule of thumb that gets you close. You still need to bare shaft shoot the arrows to test them to your bow. I shoot my short bow at 55# and 26" and the chart is pretty close to what it likes in bare shafting. I normally end up with all my arrows carrying a 42# spine.

I'd be interested in how the Beech holds up as its a nice hardwood. I made my fleshing beam out of a rough sawn piece of it and love the look of the wood also. In my experience I have had a much better time with hardwoods than softwoods. Hardwood don't break easy and they don't seem to warp on my even without finish, but softwood always have for me.

FilipT:
No, I want 30" arrows as it is easier when points stick out a little at full draw instead of them being in the same line as back of the bow. Beech dowels are a good arrow choice as beech was mentioned in old book Toxophilus as one of the choices for warbow arrows. Now if you can use it for such heavy bows, than you can surely use it for lower weight ones.

TSA:
Filip, the way that chart works , is say for a 28" actual draw, it has allowed for the arrows to be 29" to B.O.P.
so if you want a 30" arrow- calculate as for a 29" draw. so yes you did read it right. but my inclination , if i have an option, is to always err on the stiffer side- easier to keep the shafts a bit longer.
like my granny always said " its easier to cut a piece off, than to cut a piece on."  :)
i do think beech will make a great arrow- hardwoods make excellent shafts, but like all shafting, every species has great points and compromises.
Rob is absolutely correct you need to addthe #5 for every extra inch and for the extra point weight, and subtract #5 if reducing either.
i do think Rob, that if you had softwood shafts warp on you, and i am talking out of turn here, but they might not have been a very high quality shaft with not so good grain integrity.
i have had some people tell me the same about birch shafts- then when i see the actual shafts, its quite obvious why they were having problems.
 but i do agree, that the hardwoods make for a very tough, good quality shaft, and if of high quality will be extremely durable and be great thumpers! :OK

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