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Tuning for Trade Points

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CrackedBowyer:
So if this post needs to be moved to a different section, feel free. I figured this would be as good as any for posting it.

Let's base this on a hypothetical situation rather than actual bow and arrow specs. I am more interested in the process y'all come up with than actually making it work.
Everyone talks about bareshaft tuning a bow with primarily glue on or screw in points. Has anyone ever thought about how to, or tried for that matter, bareshaft tuning for trade points? Or would you just build your trade point arrows and tune the length to a reasonable degree and fletch them and call it good?

Obviously, bareshaft tuning with broadheads could be dangerous, but lets say you have an open field with nothing but your target downrange.

I am interested to see what everyone here thinks. Thanks.

Pat B:
I have never bare shaft tuned an arrow but I have mounted trade points, stone points and glue on commercial points. And every arrow I plan to hunt with I make sure it shoots well before it goes in my quiver. I make sure my arrows are spined correctly for the intended bow, make sure they are the same length(I prefer 29"-30" for my 26" draw) and make sure they spin true on my finger tip then go give them a test shot. Most make the grade, the remainder are target arrows or fluflus.

Mesophilic:
For my hunting arrows, I tune first with glue on field points.  I use hot melt for this as the points can be removed easily with heat.

If I'm using commercial made wood shafts I usually skip the bare shaft because if the spine is right I'm pretty confident in them.

With shoots I bare shaft test every time.

Once I've shot the arrows enough and I'm satisfied I remove the field point and haft on a trade point.

Then I test them again on a broadhead target before doing the final edge polish.  I'll shoot them quite a few times over several days to account for my mood, the mood of the shafts, and the mood of the bow.

So far this has worked out well for me.

bradsmith2010:
just wrap some duct tape on the tip,, the same weight as the trade point to get the arrow to shoot,,
then put feathers and trade point on, test to make sure its shooting good, and hunt,,

Pappy:
I do the same as some above, use field points for bare shafting of the same weight of trade point or broad head, then just change points when it flies well with field point and fletch before shooting trade point or broad head, you can't bare shaft with trade point or broad head, the head will take over the guidance and the arrow will go crazy. ;)
 Pappy

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