Simon you can make a functioning bow out of anything. Well done. Do you tiller Even and stop When the force draw drops? And thats the draw length. Your no set bows are impressive. Arvin
Arvin the numbers may be a bit irritating because I measure usually every two inches. Here is the last step only one inch from 22 to 23" this is why you might think draw weight drops (but it doesn't). For me draw length is a thing of feeling, I'm not really sure what determines the final length. Of course I wanna avoid set and I think I can feel when a bow says it's enough.
No set bows:
I have read Steve's statement about no set tillering, it was very enlightening for me (thanks Mr. Badger).
I myself find it very helpful (set avoiding) not to bend a bow before you are very very close to final dimensions. So I do very precisly my measurements. Usually I do no floor tillering at all, or sometimes very little. I'm aiming to brace a bow at low height and start here the tiller process. This is sometimes done within 15 minutes and only a handful scraps are necessary. I found the less scrapes the more set avoiding.
Well this bow took one inch set. As written in my data I started with an initial reflex (reflexi) of 1½ and came out with a netto reflex (reflexn) of ½. Not too bad, but one inch set.
Very nice effect with the fume. Also what is this salt treatment you speak of???
The bow got a coating with a salt solution. I have experimented with different salts 8table salt, borax, and others) and got different effects on the fuming. I enjoy these experiments, but I should make more data sheets, hahaha.
Thanks Gents!
I appreciate your commnets!
