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Yew billets belly drop build with sinew backing.
superdav95:
Ok. So change of plans! I’m not going to chew the sinew for these bows. I tried to chew a small batch and I can’t stomach it. I know I know the purests out there may say oh man up and just do it! Well I could maybe do it over several applications over several weeks little at a time maybe to spread it out. And maybe I could manage to do one bow fine without tossing my cookies but my gut feeling is that I would be nauseous the entire time. Here’s the thing. I have most of my sinew that I’ve broken down as moose and elk back strap. I cannot stand the taste of it. I’ve tried chewing a few back straps from deer and can manage it fine without feeling nauseous the whole time. I don’t have as much deer sinew otherwise I’d just use it instead and proceed with original plan. As an alternative plan for these bows instead I’m gonna go a different route entirely. I’ve always wanted to test out tb3 with sinew. I’ve never done it and heard of the odd account of reputable bowyers who have done it. This method has its benefits and drawbacks compared to “the matrix” of hide glue and sinew. The benefits I foresee could possibly be:
1. Increased water resistance
2. Increased adhesive properties.
3. Easier to repair if repairs needed in the field.
4. Water soluble and easy clean up and application.
Downsides could be:
1. Less compatible with sinew then hide glue
2. Little or no matrix benefits ?
3. Added mass with tb3 glue?
4. Longer to dry?
Lots of unanswered questions for sure. Let’s find out together.
Here’s what I’m gonna do based on what research I’ve done and what little on this there is out there.
I’m gonna still use 60-70 grams of clean brushed/combed sinew strands per bow that have been thoroughly washed and cleaned. Dry weights prior to cleaning and removal of any little unwanted bits will be close.
I’m going to size the back with a thinned down tb3 glue and water first and slightly heat up the back of the bow which will be thoroughly cleaned from any oils and such. The surface will also be roughed up too.
I’m gonna soak the sinew in a watery very thin tb3 glue solution prior to using full strength glue when laying down on the bow.
I’m going to wrap the sinewed bows with cloth strips or bandages while drying.
I’m going to back string the bows inducing an inch or so additional reflex beyond the 3” now in the bows while the bow dries for a few weeks.
Anyway. Let’s learn together. I’ve never done this so any advise would be welcome guys
Dave
mmattockx:
--- Quote from: superdav95 on January 27, 2024, 03:06:45 pm ---The benefits I foresee could possibly be:
1. Increased water resistance
2. Increased adhesive properties.
3. Easier to repair if repairs needed in the field.
4. Water soluble and easy clean up and application.
--- End quote ---
I'm curious to see how it works out. I've backed a couple bows with fabric and TB3 and I've patched a couple knots using synthetic rope fibres and Knox gelatin. I would say the gelatin/hide glue wins hands down in terms of strength and clean up is just as easy as the TB3. The TB3 never really dried truly hard on the backings I used and I would guess it will allow some creep over time due to the rubbery nature of it. The hide glue is rock solid in comparison and is still holding the synthetic fibres with no trouble after a couple thousand shots despite the fibres being much stiffer than the wood they are glued to.
Mark
superdav95:
--- Quote from: mmattockx on January 27, 2024, 07:23:56 pm ---
--- Quote from: superdav95 on January 27, 2024, 03:06:45 pm ---The benefits I foresee could possibly be:
1. Increased water resistance
2. Increased adhesive properties.
3. Easier to repair if repairs needed in the field.
4. Water soluble and easy clean up and application.
--- End quote ---
I'm curious to see how it works out. I've backed a couple bows with fabric and TB3 and I've patched a couple knots using synthetic rope fibres and Knox gelatin. I would say the gelatin/hide glue wins hands down in terms of strength and clean up is just as easy as the TB3. The TB3 never really dried truly hard on the backings I used and I would guess it will allow some creep over time due to the rubbery nature of it. The hide glue is rock solid in comparison and is still holding the synthetic fibres with no trouble after a couple thousand shots despite the fibres being much stiffer than the wood they are glued to.
Mark
--- End quote ---
Very interesting mark. Thanks for the insights. I’ve only ever used tb3 in backings like snake skins or rawhide. I’ve dabbled with other coverings like fish skins and other various organic material but for those I used hide glue or sturgeon fish glue. I didn’t find my hide backings or snake skins applied with tb3 to be more flexible or rubbery. Mine dried up quite good actually. I’ve been working on processing sinew today in preparation for whatever I end up doing on these bows. I have half a mind to just go with what I know will work good which is hide glue and clean sinew in measured bundles. But that doesn’t allow me to explore the unknown and it’s possibilities. Maybe I’ll do one each way and compare. I don’t know I’m all over the place on this. More to come.
mmattockx:
--- Quote from: superdav95 on January 28, 2024, 12:33:31 am ---I didn’t find my hide backings or snake skins applied with tb3 to be more flexible or rubbery. Mine dried up quite good actually.
--- End quote ---
It isn't terrible or rubbery like contact cement, but it isn't rock hard like cured epoxy is. I am sure I could stick a thumbnail into mine and leave a mark years after they were done.
You could do a test piece with a thin board that bends easily and see how well the TB3 holds the sinew in place after drying.
Mark
superdav95:
--- Quote from: mmattockx on January 28, 2024, 01:43:22 am ---
--- Quote from: superdav95 on January 28, 2024, 12:33:31 am ---I didn’t find my hide backings or snake skins applied with tb3 to be more flexible or rubbery. Mine dried up quite good actually.
--- End quote ---
It isn't terrible or rubbery like contact cement, but it isn't rock hard like cured epoxy is. I am sure I could stick a thumbnail into mine and leave a mark years after they were done.
You could do a test piece with a thin board that bends easily and see how well the TB3 holds the sinew in place after drying.
Mark
--- End quote ---
. Ya I might try that. Thanks mark. Another thought that is occurring to me is just to wash the stuff thoughouly first then pat dry it then chew it. Maybe that will be more palletable. Either way I’ll figure something out
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