Primitive Archer

Incredible what you did with a wood like that... It is really beautiful. And perfectly tillered.
Do you think that dessign makes less speedy bows than a similar stiff handle one?

Yep, I have definitely talked with you on Ozbow, and I remember you came up with plenty of good ideas, especially regarding bow design.

Hinges are definitely a good idea for takedowns. They used to be available commercially in the States. None of them needed threaded inserts, but that doesn't mean its not a good idea, especially with your earlier proposed application. I think most guys on here could fashion a pretty decent hinge with hand tools, files and hacksaws, given lots of time and patience. A chunk of 4130 would be ideal(not cheap), heat treated to around 35-40Rockwell, for maximum toughness, but still workable with files etc. The other methods for takedowns discussed in the thread would be quicker to make.

I have two models that I have never used. One is a 3 piece articulation. The centre section is rectangular has 3 pronged finger joints on both ends, that interlock on either side with the securing plates. Small pins go through the joints on either side to create a hinge. The articulation can go into a deflex handle shape. This style could be made in with simple tools, and a file guide for accuracy.

The other one I have is a precision "Connexion" hinge, that has been done on a milling machine. A cnc mill could churn them out. Hard to explain, but it is in 2 separate halves that slide in together from the side in the L shaped position, but lock in when the hinge is folded flat into the shooting position. Really precisely made, can go into a slight deflex, or flat They were used on Robertson Stykbow longbows for a really long time, but the guy who makes the hinges must have retired, because they aren't available anymore. They come with titanium screws. Not sure if the hinge is stainless or titanium.

Gonna conduct some necromancy on this old thread:

I found an old project where I followed the dimensions calculated and got pretty much exactly what I wanted. This was a pretty long Molly design, made from boo-backed ironbark. I calculated the dimensions and printed them out 1:1 as templates, then did the same with the projected tiller shape. It didn't take much tillering to get it to spec, and when it was done the draw weight/length were just what I wanted, the tiller shape matched the projection, and the dimensions were pretty much bang on. Just small fractions of an inch here and there.

I’m in. 

R/H
50-55
29” draw

Lovely looking bow, I can see why you'd like to try something similar.
My only worry with that method  would be the potential wear on the wooden end that gets repeatedly inserted, then taken apart. I imagine it would be not as harsh with a fg wrap handle( never heard it mentioned as a problem with fg wrap handles, but the metal sleeves always seem to have, inner sleeves to prevent wear).

If you can find tubing, where the next size down can telescope back into the main tube that might solve the problem. It depends on how the handle as a whole responds after bending, and whether you can easily get the pieces back apart.

Another idea, instead of bending the tube into deflex, you could saw through the tube, through the top, and sides but leaves the bottom side intact. Then you could bend it, and then weld the sides up.

Very interested in seeing what you come up with. I think I have met you at the  Wiseman's Ferry shoot back around 2007-10, we had a discussion about Native Australian bow woods, eucalypts and their tendency to sometimes chrysal even if the bow is perfectly made?If you are the same guy I remember you had excellent bowyering skills, blacksmithing/knifemaking skills and a sharp mind.