Primitive Archer

Doesn't look too bad. You have left a little swelling around them to help compensate for the knots.
Another option in your arsenal is to leave a little "wart" of wood on the belly side around the knot. Its not often used because it makes tillering a little more complicated, but it does work well, especially against stopping chrysals.

Curious to know how wide the limb is, and how powerful you want the bow?

Arvin, a better way to say on mine above is it rolls in a loose grip. When just held in the hand unstrung it rolls in the hand because of the mass weight of wood favoring one side.

Arvin, on some snaky staves each snaky growth ring travels a different path. Many of those sneaky staves usually don't survive.

Arvin, I don’t know if this will help or not, but here is one I made. It shots fine with little hand shock, but it does twist a little in the hand on release I contribute to so much limb protuding out from the string on the upper limb. There is just more mass weight on the right side of center than left. Limb thickness is consistent all the way with the back tip to tip.

Getting back in the saddle again after not making bows for a couple years, and wondering about some knots. Making this one for my girlfriend and don't want it to blow up on her. Did I leave enough material on these funny knots or should I go down another ring and leave a little extra? Thank you!

Those are on the back, I assume? The top one I would put a patch over (sinew, rawhide or other material just to prevent a splinter lifting) after digging out any loose wood and filling it with CA glue, as Eric suggests. The other one I would just hit with thin CA and carry on.

I made a scraper out of a concrete nail to carefully work pin knot clusters on the backs of limbs from every direction.

You have the coolest tool selection, Eric.


Mark