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1
Bows / Re: Cutting and sealing hickory
« Last post by bentstick54 on Today at 05:42:26 pm »
Or is there too much moisture in the sapwood to seal immediately?
2
Bows / Cutting and sealing hickory
« Last post by bentstick54 on Today at 05:36:50 pm »
If I cut some 6” to 10” hickory fully leafed out in June with temps in the 90 to 100 degree range and 50 to 90% humidity, and split into quarters and peel the bark the same or next day, do I need to seal the backs, or just the ends? I’ve never worked with hickory before.
3
Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by willie on Today at 04:57:20 pm »
I think most could learn from you, Arvin.  tillering can be an art.
Do you find the set happening in the same places when it ocurs? perhaps if you could write a little about how you monitor set as you tiller out. where you measure. when you measure etc, detail your procedures a bit more for the reader

maybe the set gets worse as you shoot the bow more?

Willie set never happens til I reach 20 inches of draw . Yes some times the more I shoot in a bow more set creeps in. Usually not more tan than 1-1/2” . On flight arrows maybe I should design a 20” draw. But the arrows have to be 22” long. So you might as well go for at least a 24” draw. I floor tiller to about 20 pounds over desired draw weight then go to the long string never going over desired draw weight.at about twenty inches of draw on long string I brace the bow.then go from there.

Hoping you can clarify about the "not more than 1-1/2""
would that be an additional 1-1/2" from shooting in over whatever set  happened when you finished tillering?

going back to the general question about monitoring set as you tiller:

earlier in the discussion the idea was presented that different limb back profiles should result in different bend profiles (eliptical vs circular etc.) this principle is based on the assumption that all parts of the limb are (or should be) stressed equally.

when the stress is equal throughout the limbs the set should also be equally distributed.

when I started tillering bows I made the typical newby mistakes and overstressd different parts of the limbs creating set in various places. its not hard to pick up one of these bows today and see where the oops occured.

If I were visually inspecting one of your well tillered bows with not much set, I would have a very difficult if not impossible job determining where in the limb set might be more or less than set in another part of the limb, and hence, where one might try to stay a touch wider or thicker next time.

When tillering?
Do you have a predetermined idea or a pattern for what the bend profile should look like?

when you get to 20" and start noticing set.......
are you looking for where the set is occuring and changeing your plan for how the limb bend profile should change?


4
Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by mmattockx on Today at 03:36:31 pm »
I’m good at making them bend even but they end up with more set than I like.

Make one 1/2" wider at the fades than your usual. You pay almost zero limb weight penalty with your pyramid design and the extra width makes a huge difference in the strain on the wood.


tillering can be an art.

Not just 'can be', I'd say it really is in almost all cases.


Mark
5
Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by superdav95 on Today at 02:28:05 pm »
I think most could learn from you, Arvin.  tillering can be an art.
Do you find the set happening in the same places when it ocurs? perhaps if you could write a little about how you monitor set as you tiller out. where you measure. when you measure etc, detail your procedures a bit more for the reader

maybe the set gets worse as you shoot the bow more?

Willie set never happens til I reach 20 inches of draw . Yes some times the more I shoot in a bow more set creeps in. Usually not more tan than 1-1/2” . On flight arrows maybe I should design a 20” draw. But the arrows have to be 22” long. So you might as well go for at least a 24” draw. I floor tiller to about 20 pounds over desired draw weight then go to the long string never going over desired draw weight.at about twenty inches of draw on long string I brace the bow.then go from there.

What Arvin said.  I pretty much do the same thing.  I may vary a little depending on type of bow build but pretty well what Arvin says here for alb or pyramid style and recurve long bows. 
6
Around the Campfire / Re: Shave horse
« Last post by Deerhunter21 on Today at 01:32:58 pm »
I prefer a bench vise as well, but I’ll look into getting another one once I can set up something semi permanent.

Ksnow that is a really nice design. Good place for me to start I think. I appreciate the help
7
Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by Selfbowman on Today at 11:49:47 am »
I think most could learn from you, Arvin.  tillering can be an art.
Do you find the set happening in the same places when it ocurs? perhaps if you could write a little about how you monitor set as you tiller out. where you measure. when you measure etc, detail your procedures a bit more for the reader

maybe the set gets worse as you shoot the bow more?

Willie set never happens til I reach 20 inches of draw . Yes some times the more I shoot in a bow more set creeps in. Usually not more tan than 1-1/2” . On flight arrows maybe I should design a 20” draw. But the arrows have to be 22” long. So you might as well go for at least a 24” draw. I floor tiller to about 20 pounds over desired draw weight then go to the long string never going over desired draw weight.at about twenty inches of draw on long string I brace the bow.then go from there.
8
Trading Post / Re: snake skins?
« Last post by Eric Krewson on Today at 10:25:52 am »
There ae some nice looking air dried ones on eBay from the same seller. They have gone up since the days I could buy a matched set for $25, looks like it would be closer to $100 now.
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Trading Post / snake skins?
« Last post by Bearded.Jake on May 24, 2024, 11:49:47 pm »
I am looking for western diamond back rattler skins. Any to trade or sell? or if you know of an ethical supplier, that would be great! I might be interested in sturgeon skins as well.
Thanks!
10
Bows / Re: Fire Hardened Hickory Bow with Copperhead Skins
« Last post by SamH on May 24, 2024, 10:49:02 pm »
Beautiful work, man if my second even my 10 or 20th had looked anything like that I would have thought I had died and went to Heaven. :) Very nice work. :) beautiful in all aspects.
 Pappy

Thank you!  I definitely took your advice from some of the other topics on the forum about hickory bows.  All of the info available on here allows people to skip some of the learning curve.
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