Recent Posts

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Bows / Re: Latest Osage selfbow
« Last post by Selfbowman on Today at 03:47:57 pm »
Very nice bow. Well done .
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Around the Campfire / Re: Shave horse
« Last post by GlisGlis on Today at 03:45:16 pm »
Hey Russel
I do not have plans as I did it from scraps and quickly.
I show you pictures tough as this shaving horse (half horse..) ended being very useful and may give you some ideas
The first requisite was it had to occupy very little space so I made it only 5''  in width
I' ve cut back on hind legs as I use a chair and i made it with as many detachable parts as i could.
This leave me with a basic L structure that can be easily stored in very little space.
It has some small flaws but on the whole it works (pretty light and not immovable)
I've used for bow making and spoon carving, also as attachment frame for loom weaving.
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Around the Campfire / Re: Shave horse
« Last post by Pat B on Today at 02:18:27 pm »
Welcome back, Russell.  I'll take a pic of the one I built in a little while and try to explain my process building it.
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Bows / Re: Hop Horbeam bendy handle 40#@26
« Last post by Juan Ant. Espinosa on Today at 02:08:27 pm »
That´s a nicely ended natural bow. Has the aspect of a great plains warrior bow.
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Bows / Re: Fire Hardened Hickory #2
« Last post by Juan Ant. Espinosa on Today at 02:03:04 pm »
You didn´t need to use snake skin this time to end with another beautifull bow.
Has a nice colour, details and profile. :OK
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Bows / Re: Latest Osage selfbow
« Last post by Juan Ant. Espinosa on Today at 01:50:24 pm »
Nice! That´s a hunting one!
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Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by mmattockx on Today at 12:57:59 pm »
So if we tiller a non perfect pyramid to look like a perfect one, the bow is not correctly tillered.

You can't get the circular bend with constant limb thickness on a non-perfect pyramid, but you can if you tweak the thickness in the outer half of the limb. I don't know if that should be considered 'not correctly tillered' or not. The red oak lam bow I did with the lever tips was very close to circular tiller with the tips stiff, which to me is very close to an optimal arrangement of mass and strain. This is what Arvin keeps chasing and his bows have shown the results of those efforts.

I haven't found any need for more than the 2-3" parallel out of the fades, but I am sure the longer section you suggest will work fine if the thickness is tapered to suit.


In short, it's my strong opinion a pyramid bow shouldn't actually be a pyramid, nor tillered like one. It should start out parallel, then straight taper to stiff tips.

Well, that certainly isn't a pyramid bow as you describe. It's basically an ASL and will need thickness taper and tiller to suit.


Mark
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Around the Campfire / Shave horse
« Last post by Deerhunter21 on Today at 11:25:44 am »
Hey guys, long time no post! Life’s been busy with school and stuff. Anyways, I’m trying to build a shave horse, and I was wondering if anyone’s got dimensions and plans for one that they’d be willing to share?

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Muzzleloaders / Re: Score!
« Last post by Eric Krewson on Today at 09:46:41 am »
I have three .54s, they all prefer a .530 ball and .018 pocket drill patch. I tried #40 pocket drill cloth from Joann's a couple of years ago, it is really tough stuff, I will never go back to ticking after using it. All of my .54s shoot better with a stouter load, I use 80gr of 2F in my GM and Rice barreled guns and 85gr of 2F in my Hoyt rebored gun. I coned 2 out of the 3 with a Joe Woods coning tool for easier loading.

I have a lot of molds; I like the new CNC made Lee 2 cavity molds. A few years ago you could buy one for $19, they are now up to $38. Ebay has the best deal at $38 and free shipping, with TOW they cost a little less but you have to pay shipping. 

I bought a TC Gray Hawk at a flea market for $90 a few years ago, it was unfired. I didn't need it so I sold it for $225 a month or so later on the M/L Forum.
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Yeah, but.... what kind of sammich was it? A benign PBJ? Or more exotic Ham mayo cheese and tomato? Or perhaps the dreaded tuna salad?
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