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Bows / Re: Has anyone here made a deflex takedown sleeve?
« Last post by Hamish on Today at 01:26:20 am »
Thanks for that Mark, much appreciated. I can post exact measurements if anyone is interested?

I was hoping someone would still be making these, but I haven't seen any advertised for years. I have been keeping them around unused as master copies, in the hope of getting some professionally made.

From memory there were 2 replica hinges being commercially made, based on originals from the early to mid 20thC. One was called a New Moon Hinge. Not sure if the black oxidised hinge is a New Moon, or if it's the other one, that  I can't remember the name.

The Connextion hinge is a lovely bit of gear. Flawlessly made, beautifully finished. I remember thinking it was quite expensive when I bought it, maybe $100-120USD+ shipping to Australia. If it was made pre cnc days then it's done by an extremely skilled machinist. Even so that would be a good price 15 years ago if it was made on a cnc mill.

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Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by mmattockx on Today at 01:26:17 am »
Good job on that one! That's quite the gnarly looking arrow pass design you have there. What was the draw weight/length on that one?

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,70862.msg994666.html#msg994666


Mark
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Arrows / How to preserve your feathers?
« Last post by ajbruggink on Today at 01:09:25 am »
Hey guys,

I shot a turkey last Saturday, and I want to use the wing and tail feathers for fletching. How do I keep the bugs off of them for as long as possible? I was originally going to preserve my tail fan, but then I didn't put borax on the fleshy part that the tail feathers are naturally attached to, nor did I put the tail fan in the freezer to stop that fleshy part from rotting and attracting flies, that laid their eggs, which hatched into maggots. It was stupid of me. I endeavor not to make that mistake again. I pulled the tail feathers out of that fleshy 'knob'. I didn't notice any maggots eating the feathers yet, so I put them in a garbage bag with my wing feathers and put them in the freezer for the time being. What would you do with the feathers if you were me? Do I need to do anything special to them before I put them on an arrow? Do I do it after I fletched an arrow? Do I need to do something before I put them on an arrow and after? Your replies are greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Aaron
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Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by Aussie Yeoman on Today at 12:50:46 am »
Good job on that one! That's quite the gnarly looking arrow pass design you have there. What was the draw weight/length on that one?
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Bows / Re: Has anyone here made a deflex takedown sleeve?
« Last post by mmattockx on Today at 12:12:25 am »
Hamish's hinge pics. I will let him explain what we are looking at, but there are two designs. One looks to be permanently pinned while the other one will separate into two pieces when opened far enough.












Mark
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Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by mmattockx on Today at 12:10:51 am »
Absolutely agree with you there. The taper profile needs to converge on a theoretical zero width tip, which in practicality has to have some width, as you mentioned.

This means that the limbs, of tillered perfectly symmetrically, probably won't be exactly the same thickness throughout, but need to taper ever so slightly in the last 1/4 of the limb or so.

You are correct on needing to taper the outer limb thickness some if you straight taper to the nock width. You can keep the limbs constant thickness with a narrow lever to the nock, as shown here:







It is a bit hard to tell in the picture, but the end of the limb is parallel width for about the last 3.5" or so. It is 5/16" wide for that whole length. This lets the limb width taper follow the theoretical ideal that goes to a point at the nock, then transitions into a slightly stiff tip lever where the limb width goes below the 5/16" width. I added a tip wedge during layup to stiffen the tip a bit more and guarantee it was strong enough. This was the first time I had tried this and I was worried that the spindly narrow tip would be too fragile.


Mark
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Bows / Re: Has anyone here made a deflex takedown sleeve?
« Last post by Bob Barnes on May 16, 2024, 10:35:15 pm »
I think that I have a connection hinge, less the screws, if there are any questions about it...
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Great stories JW, as usual! Good to hear I'm not the only one who's not eating wild turkey this season. Tried a new state land spot this year and found plenty of birds, and worked the calls enough to call in another hunter, but the birds didn't seem to interested in coming to visit. Had a bearded hen within longbow range, but passed cause I'm not into shooting a hen walking around making babies. Bearded hens are legal to shoot here in Michigan. These damn turkeys out maneuvered me all week, to the point where I got busted on the move on 4 different occasions, somehow just a little too far out of range for my 410, but still close enough for me to hear them laughing at me. On the 410 topic, biggest bird I ever shot was with a 410. Triple bearded monster of a bird that had the nerve to wake me up from a nap around 1:00 in the afternoon at about 10 yards. That was long before those way over priced TSS shells were around.
Anyway back to this season. Decided to switch to the 12 gauge for a little more distance capabilities, and that didn't work either. Gave up on that spot, drove about 10 minutes to different location, and heard a gobble not 2 minutes after exiting the car. Quickly found a not so great spot to sit cause he was already heading in my direction and I hadn't even takin my call outta my pocket. Got settle and prepped as fast as possible, gave him some soft purring and I could hear him now running in my direction up a hill. He crested the hill as I was putting down the call and busted me. Considering my gun was already up and pointed in his general direction, I attempted a shot, but at that point he already decided his choice to come say hi was a bad one and was promptly retreating. It was a clean a miss, didn't even so much put a feather outta place. That was the end of my season. At that point I also opted for breakfast instead. Mine was some asiago sourdough toast with, plenty of marinated goat cheese and a fried egg on top. Got a little over a week now to apply for one of those Michigan bear tags. That'll be my next adventure
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Bows / Re: Tree ID
« Last post by Eric Krewson on May 16, 2024, 09:50:28 pm »
Thornless Honey Locust Tree (Gleditsia triacanthos f. inermis)
Choose a thornless variety of honey locust trees if you want to grow an elegant, tall honey locust in your garden.

Thornless locust trees have beautiful foliage, bright flowers, and attract honey bees. Because the ‘inermis’ cultivars have no sharp spikes on the bark, there is no danger of injuring yourself.

There are several cultivars of thornless honey locust trees, such as Imperial (‘Impcole’), Skyline (‘Skycole’), Sunburst (‘suncole’), Moraine, Northern Acclaim (‘Harve’), Perfection (‘Wandell’) and Street Keeper (‘Draves’).
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Primitive Shoots and Events / Re: 26th Tennessee Classic.
« Last post by tattoo dave on May 16, 2024, 09:35:17 pm »
I'd be one of those folks still kicking themselves for not going, but had multiple situations arise at home, and just couldn't do it. Here I am again saying someday...
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