Recent Posts

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1
Bows / Back to something fun
« Last post by Muskyman on Today at 07:29:44 pm »
Got this built for momma.
Now back to something I like doing
Got the bark off this guy today and put a nice coat of polyurethane
2
Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by Selfbowman on Today at 07:02:48 pm »
Quote from: willie on May 15, 2024, 08:28:08 pm
Quote from: Selfbowman on May 15, 2024, 06:46:33 pm
That requires more width fades to mid limb. Short or long bow. Just an opinion.

adding width to limit set certiany seems like you can get a good handle on how much extra width it takes to make your design shoot better.

does your width out of the handle run straight for a ways before you begin to taper? if so, have you changed the distance out the limb before the taper starts? or just go a little wider to the same point as before?

Willie if we overbuild the first three inches coming out of the fades but run parallel the limbs need to tapered in thickness ? If we overbuild in more overall width thru out the hole limb length but stay the same thickness could this be close to the same spreading the load. Extra mass in the first nine inches out of the fade has little effect on performance in my opinion. Again the added reflex in the last 9” of the limb is throwing a curve in the calculation. I think. Thats why I have been chasing the set with mass from bow to bow. Obviously I build by feel with mathematical measurements from the design in mind as I go. Not smart enough to do it any other way. 🤠🤠
3
Arrows / Re: How to preserve your feathers?
« Last post by Pat B on Today at 06:13:18 pm »
I keep mine in a frig in the basement with furs, etc. You can store them in a plastic bag with borax in it to prevent bug damage.
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Around the Campfire / Re: Looky what I got...
« Last post by White Falcon on Today at 11:03:33 am »
Nice find !
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Bows / Re: Has anyone here made a deflex takedown sleeve?
« Last post by Hamish on Today at 01:26:20 am »
Thanks for that Mark, much appreciated. I can post exact measurements if anyone is interested?

I was hoping someone would still be making these, but I haven't seen any advertised for years. I have been keeping them around unused as master copies, in the hope of getting some professionally made.

From memory there were 2 replica hinges being commercially made, based on originals from the early to mid 20thC. One was called a New Moon Hinge. Not sure if the black oxidised hinge is a New Moon, or if it's the other one, that  I can't remember the name.

The Connextion hinge is a lovely bit of gear. Flawlessly made, beautifully finished. I remember thinking it was quite expensive when I bought it, maybe $100-120USD+ shipping to Australia. If it was made pre cnc days then it's done by an extremely skilled machinist. Even so that would be a good price 15 years ago if it was made on a cnc mill.

6
Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by mmattockx on Today at 01:26:17 am »
Quote from: Aussie Yeoman on Today at 12:50:46 am
Good job on that one! That's quite the gnarly looking arrow pass design you have there. What was the draw weight/length on that one?

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,70862.msg994666.html#msg994666


Mark
7
Arrows / How to preserve your feathers?
« Last post by ajbruggink on Today at 01:09:25 am »
Hey guys,

I shot a turkey last Saturday, and I want to use the wing and tail feathers for fletching. How do I keep the bugs off of them for as long as possible? I was originally going to preserve my tail fan, but then I didn't put borax on the fleshy part that the tail feathers are naturally attached to, nor did I put the tail fan in the freezer to stop that fleshy part from rotting and attracting flies, that laid their eggs, which hatched into maggots. It was stupid of me. I endeavor not to make that mistake again. I pulled the tail feathers out of that fleshy 'knob'. I didn't notice any maggots eating the feathers yet, so I put them in a garbage bag with my wing feathers and put them in the freezer for the time being. What would you do with the feathers if you were me? Do I need to do anything special to them before I put them on an arrow? Do I do it after I fletched an arrow? Do I need to do something before I put them on an arrow and after? Your replies are greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Aaron
8
Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by Aussie Yeoman on Today at 12:50:46 am »
Good job on that one! That's quite the gnarly looking arrow pass design you have there. What was the draw weight/length on that one?
9
Bows / Re: Has anyone here made a deflex takedown sleeve?
« Last post by mmattockx on Today at 12:12:25 am »
Hamish's hinge pics. I will let him explain what we are looking at, but there are two designs. One looks to be permanently pinned while the other one will separate into two pieces when opened far enough.












Mark
10
Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by mmattockx on Today at 12:10:51 am »
Quote from: Aussie Yeoman on May 16, 2024, 06:42:39 pm
Absolutely agree with you there. The taper profile needs to converge on a theoretical zero width tip, which in practicality has to have some width, as you mentioned.

This means that the limbs, of tillered perfectly symmetrically, probably won't be exactly the same thickness throughout, but need to taper ever so slightly in the last 1/4 of the limb or so.

You are correct on needing to taper the outer limb thickness some if you straight taper to the nock width. You can keep the limbs constant thickness with a narrow lever to the nock, as shown here:







It is a bit hard to tell in the picture, but the end of the limb is parallel width for about the last 3.5" or so. It is 5/16" wide for that whole length. This lets the limb width taper follow the theoretical ideal that goes to a point at the nock, then transitions into a slightly stiff tip lever where the limb width goes below the 5/16" width. I added a tip wedge during layup to stiffen the tip a bit more and guarantee it was strong enough. This was the first time I had tried this and I was worried that the spindly narrow tip would be too fragile.


Mark
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