Antler Base Punch Technique

[nclonghunter]

I have watched and read many different techniques of using the antler billet and punch. Posts on PA have also influenced this technique I am now testing. Many of the antler punches and tools found that Ancient Tech has posted has shown many of the originals design. I think what you see are very similar. The board could be made from a small log and laid on the lap to work your point while sitting, or find a downed log and cut it out. In my opinion Mike Dothager is using a similar technique however he sits on the ground and supports the antler punch with his foot. The biggest thing that I like about this technique is the back of the antler punch is solid against a backstop keeping it solid into the point. The leather wrapped wood is movable to adjust the flint you are knapping to exactly where you want it. Angles of the flint can also be tilted to change the angle of break and the height can vary to change angles of punch. As Dothager points out in his video, it is best to strike the punch close to the end and at an angle towards the point. Not a straight down strike. Setting up good platforms and staying on the ridges are important also. I also use a small piece of leather to support the back of the point and keep it firm on the pad as it is struck. This seems to be a very accurate method. I like this better than the previous style I posted where the antler punch was held in a slit cut in a hard piece of leather. You can even use antler tine tips to get small concentrated flakes or a larger antler base to get wider strong flakes.You will find yourself wanting to make different punches for different purposes, such as thin flakes,wide flakes and notching. Easy to prepare and use, give it a try.

I would like to see some techniques that others are testing or trying out with antler,stone and bone

[Hummingbird Point]

Thanks for showing that, I will give it a try.

Keith

[nclonghunter]

You are welcome Keith, I hope it works great for you. I am still grateful for the antler base hammer you shared at the House Mountain.

I forgot to mention I think the sharp squared edge of the punch seem to work better for me than a rounded edge. I think it concentrates the energy into a small spot and carries farther across the point. I have read that some punches had flats on the sides, which I am thinking will give a wider flake and maybe a more solid fit of antler to platform when the platform is properly ground. Many say you do not need to grind when using antler but I like to get a good solid fit for antler to platform.

Good Luck

[AncientTech]

Here is what I just tried out this morning.  The setup is based on three lines of information - Orcutt, Holmes, and some other archaeological information:

I need a name - maybe, "HEAVY DUTY PEG FLAKER"

The photos are not complete.  What is not shown is my grooved block anvil, and my oversized wooden mallet. 

Anyway, here is the flaker, and the first flake removal:





















I am really impressed with the extremely diffuse bulb of percussion, and the smooth nature of the flake scar.  This is wood on wood indirect percussion, with an antler flaker bit making the contact with the stone.  My theory is that the heavy wood on wood indirect percussion generates a great deal of force, but minimal shock.  The small antler flaker bit acts as the intermediary, between the process, and the stone.  It is probably comparable to pressure flaking, on STEROIDS. 

The bit is a straight section of antler, about one centimeter thick, and two and a half inches long.  I simply pounded it into the wood, after drilling.  It is not even hafted.

I am going to be working with this for a while, because it ties into another theory that I have been working on, for years.   

 

[nclonghunter]

Ben, I have been thinking about just using a hard piece of hickory for the baton strike on the antler base punch rather than another piece of antler.

I also tried using my Ishi stick by placing it against my shoulder and holding the flake in my left hand. The natural bend of the arm allows pulling the flake against the antler tipped Ishi stick, then striking the Ishi stick. Only tried it a few time the other evening and got mediocre results but I think it has potential.

If you get a chance to show how you used the above wood and antler I would like to see it. I will try and get a couple pictures of the Ishi pressure strike as soon as I can.

I recently read where a light strike on indirect percussion will generate more power than heavy pressure from a pressure flaker. It is amazing how much energy you can generate and transfer through an antler punch on a specific spot. That is one reason I do not like using only a big billet for flake removal. It is a lot of energy but I hit high then low and have poor accuracy overall.

[turbo]

Good thread Lyman, I've been meaning to get some deer antlers to make punches for some time. I plan to make some like Keith mentioned Marty using; the composite/stick punches. The little knapping time I've had lately has been spent studying the buffalo/indirect punch. Maybe I'll start a thread on that in the near future.

It looks like you're now using a Dothager/rocker/floor punch?

Ben; I'd like to see the anvil you're using on that beast.

[AncientTech]

I have watched and read many different techniques of using the antler billet and punch. Posts on PA have also influenced this technique I am now testing. Many of the antler punches and tools found that Ancient Tech has posted has shown many of the originals design. I think what you see are very similar. The board could be made from a small log and laid on the lap to work your point while sitting, or find a downed log and cut it out. In my opinion Mike Dothager is using a similar technique however he sits on the ground and supports the antler punch with his foot. The biggest thing that I like about this technique is the back of the antler punch is solid against a backstop keeping it solid into the point. The leather wrapped wood is movable to adjust the flint you are knapping to exactly where you want it. Angles of the flint can also be tilted to change the angle of break and the height can vary to change angles of punch. As Dothager points out in his video, it is best to strike the punch close to the end and at an angle towards the point. Not a straight down strike. Setting up good platforms and staying on the ridges are important also. I also use a small piece of leather to support the back of the point and keep it firm on the pad as it is struck. This seems to be a very accurate method. I like this better than the previous style I posted where the antler punch was held in a slit cut in a hard piece of leather. You can even use antler tine tips to get small concentrated flakes or a larger antler base to get wider strong flakes.You will find yourself wanting to make different punches for different purposes, such as thin flakes,wide flakes and notching. Easy to prepare and use, give it a try.

I would like to see some techniques that others are testing or trying out with antler,stone and bone

Hello Lyman,

The process looks similar to Dothager's technique.

My impression is that it will probably work better with obsidian, and heat treated materials. 

I think that you would do better with a piece of hickory, for a striker.  But, you may have to "whip" the flaker, because there is not much room for follow through.   

Ben

[Hummingbird Point]

Yes, I would also like to see the rest of Ben's set up, and any other ideas people have come up with to solve the big, big, big problem of indirect percussion, which is how to supply the "third hand" needed.  I feel like it will be fairly easy to sort out by trial and error the striking, shape of the tool etc. but first we have to have a reliable way to support and manipulte the biface while manipulating and striking the punch. 

Keith

[le0n]

But, you may have to "whip" the flaker, because there is not much room for follow through.

hadn't thought of that before.

can you actually increase velocity of the head of the striker by doing this?

is the function analogous to that of a bull whip? i know you aren't going to break the sound barrier with a stick, hah hah, but an increase in speed on the pull back is highly likely.

[nclonghunter]

Using the antler as a striker has been plenty for flaking. Not really certain what whipping it means but placing the preform on the edge of the wood allows the antler punch to past the edge and giving plenty of follow through.

[AncientTech]

Yes, I would also like to see the rest of Ben's set up, and any other ideas people have come up with to solve the big, big, big problem of indirect percussion, which is how to supply the "third hand" needed.  I feel like it will be fairly easy to sort out by trial and error the striking, shape of the tool etc. but first we have to have a reliable way to support and manipulte the biface while manipulating and striking the punch. 

Keith

In 1895, Franklin Hamilton Cushing addressed the Vice President of the United States, and outlined over half a dozen processes used by Native American flintknappers, in reducing stone.  One of the processes that he described involved resting a biface on a hollow log.  Similarly, the Eskimo used a log with a spoon shaped arrow hollowed out. 

Franklin describes resting the biface on the hollow log, and holding it down with one knee.  I think that it could also be held down with a foot.

The biface was wrapped in "buckskin".  Among other things, this reduces bounce, upon impact.  It also catches stray flakes.

Meanwhile, the other two hands manipulate the flaker, and striker. 

I will take more photos of my anvil, soon.  I need to change my flaker for one with a bulbous end, and a thinner shaft, too.

Ben

[AncientTech]

But, you may have to "whip" the flaker, because there is not much room for follow through.

hadn't thought of that before.

can you actually increase velocity of the head of the striker by doing this?

is the function analogous to that of a bull whip? i know you aren't going to break the sound barrier with a stick, hah hah, but an increase in speed on the pull back is highly likely.

I believe that you can increase speed, by using a whipping strike.  Also - and this gets technical - you can also change the direction of the flaker, in some instances, by whipping it with a strike that slightly pulls the flaker head to one side.  The opposite end of the flaker will kick in the opposite directly.  This would apply to punches that are struck on the butt end.

We don't know for certain that only straight strikes were used.  A lot more testing needs to be done...  My five years of experiments have raised as many questions, as provided possible answers.

[AncientTech]

Using the antler as a striker has been plenty for flaking. Not really certain what whipping it means but placing the preform on the edge of the wood allows the antler punch to past the edge and giving plenty of follow through.

There is a wooden board below the flaker.  Obviously, the flaker is resting on the edge of the stone, which is resting on some padding.  So, that should create a slight gap between the bottom of the flaker, and wooden board, down below.  My guess is that the gap is less than two inches.  So, if you strike really hard, the flaker could hit the board.  If you strike really hard with follow through, the flaker and striker probably would hit the board.  My thought is that by "whipping" the flaker, with the striker, you can avoid driving through to the board. 

If you do not have to strike very hard, this may not apply.  In my case, I deal with hard cherts.  I have broken flakers, with hammerstone blows.  Also, when the stone won't give, the blow can make a very high pitched "chirp" sound.  I have to strike really hard, sometimes.  And, I need a lot of space for follow through.  I actually need maybe two feet of space for the flaker to swing through after detachment.  Again, this may not matter in your case, if the stone is fairly brittle.

Ben   

[AncientTech]

Using the antler as a striker has been plenty for flaking. Not really certain what whipping it means but placing the preform on the edge of the wood allows the antler punch to past the edge and giving plenty of follow through.

I probably misunderstood.  I thought that everything was resting on a board.  Lol.

[AncientTech]

I went through some more rounds of testing, yesterday.  Testing, testing, testing.  It is all about testing.  I used crude hammerstone made spalls. 

I am making some progress.  The platforms are different than what I expected.  Platforms may be lower, but flaker placement may be higher, to allow for drag during impact.  Flaker angle also is slightly different than expected, on account of drag. 

I am missing one photo of a narrow ridge removal.  The flake shot 2/3rds across the biface, along a narrow strip.

I am working on the really hard end of stone.  I think I may have raw agatized palm, or something similar.

 













Now, you can compare those flakes to this super-secret, highly banned flake:

https://youtu.be/yp7kNJT0R0c

The differences are discernible, no?